Organic Cotton Yarn Quality

1

In the name of Allah, the

Compassionate, the Merciful

2

Study of Organic Cotton Yarn quality for various

Spinning techniques

By

Muhammad Qamar Tusief

Dr. Nabeel Amin

Nasir Mahmood

Rana Atique ur Rehman

3

ABSTRACT

The use of organic cotton in spinning industry is common these

days. Organic cotton is produced without using the agricultural chemicals

and fertilizers. Its spinning performance is good in industry. Organic cotton

has various end uses ranging from personal care items to home furnishings

and even with garments of all styles and kinds even for kids wear organic

cotton is the best recommended one. Siro spinning is a spinning method

which is being predicted to have profound impact on the yarn spinning

industry. In siro spinning the optimal adjustment and selection of various

variables is of utmost importance for the production of quality yarn.

Different mechanical variables like spindle speed, twist multiplier, and steel

ring diameter are all significant parameters for yarn evenness, imperfections,

hairiness and tensile properties. Thus the present study was planned to

appraise the quality parameters of siro spun and ring spun yarns under

different machine variables like spindle speed, twist multiplier and steel ring

diameter. All these variables put significant effect on ultimate yarn quality.

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CHAPTER

NO.

TITLE

PAGE NO.

1 INTRODUCTION 7

2 REVIEW OF LITERATURE 11

3 MATERIAL AND METHODS 38

4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 43

5 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 76

6 LITERATURE CITED 81

CONTENTS

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Sr. No.

TITLE Page No.

I Physical characteristics of organic cotton 39

II Settings of different mechanical variables on spinning frame 40

1 Analysis of variance for yarn count 45

1a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn count 45

2 Analysis of variance for yarn lea strength 48

2a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn lea strength 48

3 Analysis of variance for yarn CLSP 51

3a Comparison of individual treatment means for CLSP 51

4 Analysis of variance for single end strength (SES) 54

4a Comparison of individual treatment means for single end strength 54

5 Analysis of variance for rupture per kilometer (RKM) 57

5a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn RKM 57

6 Analysis of variance for yarn elongation % 60

6a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn elongation % 60

7 Analysis of variance for yarn evenness % 63

7a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn evenness % 63

8 Analysis of variance for thick places/Km 66

8a Comparison of individual treatment means for thick places/Km 66

9 Analysis of variance for thin places/Km 69

9a Comparison of individual treatment means for thin places/Km 69

10 Analysis of variance for yarn neps/Km 72

10a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn neps/Km 72

11 Analysis of variance for yarn hairiness 75

11a Comparison of individual treatment means for yarn hairiness 75

LIST OF TABLES

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THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO

MY PARENTS AND

MY FAMILY

7

Chapter No. 1

INTRODUCTION

The textile industry in Pakistan covers the biggest part of its present

industrial sector. The export of the textile articles like cotton yarns is

important factor to the economy of Pakistan .Due to this reason, competition

with foreign market has been the important task for the Pakistan textile

industry. Stress is being put on the line of quality and price control. Quality

and price of raw material are considered as very dominating factors which

affect the situation of textile industry. The significance of textile raw

material depends upon its kind, handing out, and end uses. Textile industry

in Pakistan is also using organic cotton as a raw material in these days.

Agricultural chemicals and fertilizers are not used in the production of

organic cotton. Infect the chemicals and pesticides which are used to

enhance the production of cotton are harmful for the human skin. The

production of organic cotton is not only avoiding of the pesticides, but it is a

full cultivating system, which requires a strong care for the crop. Organic

cotton production needs a very careful handling for best results. Industry has

found its performance good in processing. Organic cotton has many

advantages which covers the personal care items and home furnishings.

Organic cotton is also used in different type of garments; especially it is used

in making of garments for kids (Raja et al, 2010).

Sirospun yarns are produced on a conventional ring frame by feeding

two roving, drafted simultaneously, into the apron zone at a predetermined

separation. Emerging from the nip point of the front rollers, the two strands

are twisted together to form a two-ply structure. The process was invented

around 1975-76 by the laboratories of the Commonwealth Scientific

International Research Organization (CSIRO) division of textile industry in

Australia for the worsted industry. Cotton siro spinning research began in the

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early eighties. The success, of cotton siro spun yarns would give weavers,

knitters, and designer’s additional choices (Cheng and Sun, 1998).

In consideration of a comparison between siro and ring spinning

system with respect to the yarn properties siro spun yarns are stronger, less

hairy, and more abrasion resistant than single yarns because of the strand

twist. Siro spun yarns are also more extensible than

9

single yarns at higher twist multipliers. Coarser Siro spun yarns are more

uniform and have fewer yarn imperfections. The number of thick places per

km of the single yarn is high than that of the Siro spun yarn,. The neps per

km of the single yarns and those of the Siro spun yarns are similar

approximately. For all linear densities, the siro spun yarn has the lowest

number of imperfections than the ring spun yarns. The Siro spun yarn has

fewer imperfections than the single yarn . At all twist multipliers, Siro spun

yarns are stronger than single yarns. Coarser Siro spun yarns are not

comparable to single yarns in evenness and imperfections, they gives the

better results but finer Sirospun yarn is less uniform and has more

imperfections than the coarser one. As the yarn becomes finer, Sirospun yarn

is more abrasion resistant than single yarns. The tenacity, hairiness, and

abrasion resistance of all yarn types are highly correlated with the twist

multiplier (Sun and Cheng, 2000).

In staple yarns, twist is essential to hold the fibres together and to

impart some degree of cohesiveness to the structure. Twist is a means by

which a bundle of fibres is held together so that the ultimate structure is

made capable of with standing the stresses and strains generated in the next

manufacturing steps. The role of twist in yarn is essential to manipulate the

yarn properties (Cheng and Yuen, 1997).

Spindle speed is one of the important factors which affect the yarn

properties, i.e., tensile strength, mass irregularity, imperfections and yarn

hairiness. With the increase in spindle speed, there is an increasing trend of

yarn tenacity. As the spindle speed increases, the randomization of the fibres

in the yarn gradually increases which causes better parallelization of fibres

along the axis in the yarn and hence increases the load shearing capacity of

the fibres. At higher spindle speed, packing coefficient is higher resulting

higher compactness. Higher the compactness of the yarn structure better is

10

the fibre migration within the yarn and hence higher is the interlocking

structure of fibres within the yarn (Chaudhuri, 2003).

Increasing the ring diameter to produce larger cops has its limitations

and disadvantages. The frictional drag of ring on the traveler increases with

the rotational speed of the traveler and with increased radius of the ring. The

frictional drag by a steel ring on a steel traveler during spinning will generate

heat at the ring traveler interface .With the small contact area between the

“C” shaped traveler and ring, heat can build up locally to higher

temperatures. Increased spindle speed and ring diameter, and there by

traveler speed, may then lead to a situation in which localized melting of the

traveler occurs, and traveler can no longer be effectively used for spinning

(Lawrence, 2003).

Our main object in this research is to make a comparison of quality

parameters between the siro spun and ring spun yarns made from organic

cotton under different machine variables like spindle speed, twist multiplier

and steel ring diameter.

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Chapter No. 2

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

The importance of “Review of literature” lies in the fact that it highlights the

background knowledge about the problem to be solved. It provides further

orientation to the problem and eliminates the possibility of un-necessary

duplication of efforts. A lot of multi directional researches have been

conducted almost all in the foreign countries on the quality of the Siro spun

yarns but a comprehensive and composite study entitled “Comparative study

of organic cotton yarn quality at siro and ring spinning systems under

different variables” has not yet been undertaken systematically specially in

Pakistan. A brief review of the pertinent literature in the direction of the

present investigation is being reviewed and presented here under.

2.1 YARN CHARACTERISTICS

2.1.1 Yarn Count

Booth (1983) expressed that the count of yarn is a numerical

expression, which define its fineness.

Sharma et al. (1987) concluded that the actual yarn count increased

with increasing value of twist. The decrease in yarn diameter with increasing

twist showed that a lower value of twist produces yarn with a larger diameter

because of the loosely twisted and unmannered fibers, and it increased

further with the relaxation process because more reduction occurs.

Anjum (1999) observed a non-significant effect of different ring

diameters upon yarn count.

Rafi (2001) demonstrated that yarn strength was inversely

proportional to the yarn count, as the yarn number rises, yarn strength

decreased and vice versa.

12

Shahbaz et al. (2002) narrated that the twist multiplier had a

significant effect on the yarn number. As the twist increased the volume of

the yarn structure decreased.

Mahmood et al. (2003) narrated that the major effect on the yarn count

and yarn lea strength was due to twist multiplier, spindle speed and roving

factor. The high value of yarn count attained at high twist multiplier and low

value at low twist multiplier.

Mahmood et al. (2004) concluded that twist multipliers and spindle

speeds produced extremely significant effect upon the yarn count, whereas

traveler sizes produced non-significant effect upon yarn count. As the twist

multiplier increased the linear density (yarn count) is decreased.

Sarwar (2005) mentioned that the spindle speed and traveler shape had

not brought any significant change in actual yarn count spun.

Basal and Oxenham (2006) found that the yarn diameter was changed

by both twist and spinning system. As the twist level increased the yarn

diameter became smaller.

Ozguney et al. (2008) observed that as the twist multipliers of the

yarns increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and hairiness values

decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking

resistance values increased.

Ozguney et al. (2008) concluded that spinning production method had

a considerable effect on all the yarn characteristics. Unevenness, coefficient

of variation, neps, hairiness, thin and thick places and count variation values

are larger for ring yarn and less for other new like siro, compact yarn.

Whereas elongation at break, breaking force and tenacity values are lower

for ring yarns and higher for other yarns. As the yarn count increased, Um%,

CVm%, thin and thick places, and neps values increased, whereas count

deviation, breaking force and elongation at break (%) values decreased. As

13

any small difference in the thin & thick place will result significantly for fine

yarn, hence as the yarn count increases yarn irregularity will be more

apparent. As the amount of twist in the yarn increased, percentage of

unevenness, coefficient of variation, neps, count variation and hairiness

values decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and

breaking resistance values increased.

Mahmood et al. (2009) described that the significant distinction in the

mean values of yarn count because of dissimilar twist multipliers (T). A

minor deviation in real count gained with dissimilar twists, for the reason

that as twist enhanced yarn became more compact.

Nouby and Kamel (2011) demonstrated that twist multiplier play a

vital role to produce a change in yarn count. They stated here that as the

twist factor increased the reduction ratio of irregularity of yarns count

increased, in other words, the yarn count steadily transfer in the direction of

the finer side with mounting the twist.

2.1.2 Yarn Lea Strength (lbs)

Sreenivasan and Shankaranarayana (1961) narrated that the

relationship between twist multiplier and lea breaking strength followed the

usual pattern. Up to certain extant increase in the twist, the yarn lea strength

increased but with further increase in twist multiplier, attaining a maximum

value at a twist multiplier of about 5, produced a reduction in lea strength.

Ratnam et al. (1968) concluded that at lesser twists, the thin places in

yarn might have achieved high strength; whereas the thick places might not

have achieved high strength. Conversely, at greater twists, both, thick and

thin places would have attained high strength.

Lee et al. (1978) discussed that the twist had a prominent effect on the

yarn strength. As the twist multiplier increase from 3.00 to 3.60 the strength

improved 26% for the carded yarns and 15% for the combed yarns.

14

Simpson and Murray (1978) stated that the fibre characteristics

(strength, length, and fineness) had the utmost effect on yarn strength of

ring-spun yarns. They also stated that how the properties of yarn especially

skein strength was affected by using different twist multiplier and a variety

of blends of a high and low strength cotton plus blends of coarse and a fine

cotton. The development in yarn strength from the low- to high-strength

cotton is better for ring-spun yarn than open end yarn. The twist factor for

greatest yarn lea strength is a lot inferior for the ring than open-end yarns

because of superior fibres parallelization.

Qadir (1983) stated that the increase in amount of twist produced an

increase in yarn strength, and that this effect held up to a certain point,

beyond which further increase in twist caused the yarn to become weaker.

Sharma et al. (1987) stated that due to inter fiber friction with in the

yarn, the yarn lea strength increased with the increase in the yarn twist.

Oxtoby (1987) stated that the strength of yarn depends upon the fibre

strength, the frictional resistance to slippage and the effect of fibres

themselves being twisted about their own individual axes.

Pasha (1987) recorded that the spindle speed and traveler shapes had

imparted the significant effect upon yarn strength and also concluded that

with the increase of spindle speed the yarn lea strength decreased.

Nawaz et al. (1997) concluded that lea strength of yarn is significantly

affected by design, model, geometry and drafting system of ring spinning

frame.

Anjum (1999) concluded that yarn lea strength was significantly

affected with ring diameter.

15

Nadeem (2002) narrated that the effect of spindle speed was highly

significant upon yarn lea strength and yarn lea strength was increased with

the increase of spindle speed.

Ahmad et al. (2002) revealed that twist multiplier had very significant

effect on the yarn lea strength. As the twist increased the yarn lea strength

increased to maximum point then more increased in twist caused decreased

in yarn lea strength.

Shahbaz et al. (2002) narrated that the twist multiplier had a

significant effect on the yarn lea strength. Gradual increased in the yarn lea

strength is due to increased in the twist

Mahmood et al. (2004) stated that as the twist factor increased, the

yarn lea strength also increased but after a certain optimum level the further

increase in twist will cause fibre rupture and strength of yarn suddenly

decreased.

Palaniswamy and Mohamed (2005) concluded that when the amount

of twist given into the yarn increased up to certain level the strength of the

yarn also increased and we further continue to increase the twist in the yarn

it will then decreased the strength.

Ureyen and Kadoglu (2006) mentioned that the fibre properties such

as strength had the maximum effect on the yarn unevenness and greater fibre

strength guide to a improved yarn evenness value and additionally, fibres

might be prohibited from rupture owing to higher strength.

Goutianos et al. (2007) described that the frictional forces between the

fibres in the yarn increased as the twist increased, which consequence

increased in the yarn strength. Maximum yarn strength achieved at certain

twist level more increased of the twist consequence a decreased of the yarn

strength multiplier.

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Yang et al. (2007) stated that low twist in single ring yarns were

desirable for their low residual torque, high bulk and softness, as well as

high spinning productivity. However, conventional low twist ring yarns had

very low strength and, thus, could not be used.

2.1.3. Count lea strength product (CLSP)

Booth (1983) reported that the count lea strength product value was

used to derive an index by which the spinning quality of cotton or spinning

quality/efficiency of particular system judged and also noted that as count of

yarn becomes finer the count strength product value falls.

Sharma et al. (1987) reported that single yarn breaking strength and

CLSP and elongation increased with twist level. The CV% of single yarn

strength and elongation decreased with increased twist factor, showing that

yarn evenness increased with twist

Smith (1991) narrated that the count strength product (CSP) value

depend on the three factors of fibres ( fibre strength, fineness and length).

Anjum (1999) concluded that count lea strength product value

decreased as the diameter of the ring increased.

Haider (2000) investigated that the spindle speed showed highly

significant effect on count lea Strength product values and CLSP value

decreased with increased in spindle speed.

Krifa et al. (2001) discussed that there exist several factors which had

an impact on yarn strength which depend upon both fibre quality parameters

and spinning conditions.

Ghosh et al. (2004) concluded that the end breaks were very sensitive

to the mean yarn strength, yarn strength variation, mean value of the peak

spinning tensions and the variation in irregularity of mass per unit length of

17

yarn. . Some technical feature had been taken in to account when the

breakage speed suddenly shouted up.

Palaniswamy and Mohamed (2005) expressed that as the amount of

twist put into the yarn increased, the strength of the yarn increased and as the

value of yarn lea strength increased count lea strength product (CLSP) of the

yarn also increased and vice versa.

Nawaz et al. (2006) described that reduction in the count lea strength

product occurred as the twist increased but further increase in twist produced

breakage in the yarn which reduced the count strength product

2.1.4. Single End Strength (gram)

Lawal et al. (2011) observed spindle speed of 11000 rpm and this

was attributed to high tension and frequent yarn breakages arising from

decreasing strength of the yarn.

Ratnam et al. (1968) concluded that because of the different response

to twist of the two components of the blended yarn, about 50% of the

shortage in the optimum strength of the blended yarn observed.

Pillay (1971) stated that with the enlargement of count and spindle

speed the CV of single-yarn strength increased while it reduced with

increase of twist multiplier and spinning draft.

Smith and Waters (1985) described that the lower strength of yarn at

lesser twist was due to the fibre slippage; where as yarns of higher twist had

lesser strength because of increased fibre obliquity to the yarn axis.

Sharma et al. (1987) reported that with the raise of twist in the yarn,

there was significant increase in the yarn breaking strength. The coefficient

of variation of single yarn strength increased with twist representing better

yarn evenness.

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Rehman (1994) mentioned a significant decrease in single yarn

strength with the increase in winding speed.

Cheng and Yuen (1997) concluded that the siro yarns depicted better

results than two fold yarns in respect of strength.

Cheng and Sun (1998) found that an increase in the twist multiplier

produced an upward displacement of the junction point. The strand angle

became greater and the strand length became shorter. As the strand angle

was greater, strand tension increased and hence the yarn became stronger.

Spinning performance of cotton Sirospun yarns was improved by higher

twists or longer fibers.

Anjum (1999) recorded non significant effect of ring size on single

end strength.

Lei (2003) found that the strength of each spun-like filament yarn

increased with the twist multiplier when it did not exceed the optimum twist

multiplier. Yarn properties were decresesed as the twist multiplier was

increased.

Chaudhuri (2003) showed that as spindle speed was amplified

randomization of fibers was progressively increased which was caused

improved parallelization of fibres along the axis in yarn and hence increased

the load shearing capacity of the fibres at higher Spindle speed, packing

coefficient was higher and compactness of yarn was greater .Higher was the

compactness of yarn better was migration of fibre within the yarn and hence

greater was the interlocking structure of the fibre in the yarn. As a result the

single end strength of yarn was increased with increase of spindle speed.

Palaniswamy and Mohamed (2005) concluded that as the twist level

amplified, the yarn strength also increased up to a certain level, beyond

which the increase in twist actually decreased the strength of staple yarn.

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Grabowska et al. (2006) concluded that elongation calculated at

breaking point was depended upon yarn twist and expressed that when the

amount of twist increased the elongation value of yarn was increased.

Kumar (2007) concluded that the strength of yarn changed with

change in spindle speed, it gave a changing behaviour with different values

of spindle speeds.

Usta (2008) studied that spindle speed influence the significant effect

on yarn strength and further mentioned that yarn strength increased with

decreased spindle speed.

Gokarneshan et al. (2008) observed that a decline in yarn twist opened

the yarn structure and resulted in a gradual decline in yarn strength with

increasing twist elimination.

El-sayed (2009) concluded that with the increase in spindle speeds

there was no appreciable change in yarn tenacity it was also found that there

was a less change in tenacity in the range of 10000 to 17500 rpm.

2.1.5. Breaking length (g/tex)

Booth (1983) defines breaking length as the length of the specimen

which will just break under its own weight when hung vertically. He also

stated that the expression of strength in terms of breaking length is useful for

comparing single fibre strength with the yarn strength.

Hari et al. (1985) concluded that in the early phases, the grey yarn

tenacity increased quickly when the yarn twist multiplier increased but at

greater twist levels it is leveled off. The increase in breaking strength with

the enhancement in twist multiplier during early phases could be credited to

the increased in packing of fibres, which leads to higher inter-fibre friction.

Salhotra (1990) found that the use of finer roving or lower spinning

drafts was quite advantageous while spinning siro yarns, and yarn tenacity

20

was greater when finer yarns were spun on this system. The drop in tenacity

was caused by an increasing proportion of surface fibers as the conventional

single yarn became finer. Because the surface fibers contribute little to yarn

tenacity, there was a drop in finer yarns. In a siro yarn, this situation was not

applicable because even the surface fibers contribute to yarn tenacity as they

were effectively bound into the yarn body by interwrapping of strands.

Saeed (1993) recorded a significant decrease in yarn rupture per

kilometer at high winding speed during winding process.

Cheng and Sun (1998) found that by increasing the spindle speed the

tension of siro spun yarn was increased. With the increase of twist the

tenacity of the siro spun yarn was increased. The increased in the strand

tension would be dominant and the yarn could break

Anjum (1999) concluded that with the increase of ring size, the value

of RKM decreases.

Hassan (2002) inferred that rupture per kilometer value of yarn

decreased at high winding speed.

Ghosh et al. (2004) stated that the mechanism of end breakage in ring

spinning was a complex phenomenon, and was entirely different from the

yarn failure mechanism during a tensile test. The important factors in

governing end breaks were the mean yarn strength, yarn strength variation,

mean value of the peak spinning tensions and the variation of yarn mass

irregularity.

Inoue et al. (2006) found that organic cotton yarn had a rigid tensile

property in the initial region and had larger rigidity and hysteresis for the

torsional property than inorganic cotton yarns

Ozguney et al. (2008) resulted that as the twist multipliers of the yarn

increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and hairiness values decreased,

21

whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking resistance

values increased.















Mohammed and Veerasubramanian (2009) discussed that

enhancement in roving twist multiplier caused increased in drafting force in

the break draft zone, resulting in appropriate elimination of fibre hooks and

extra straightening of fibres, which in order to increased yarn tenacity.

Ali (2010) described that at a definite point of twist, the strength of the

yarn achieved a highest value as twist is increased. Later on the strength is

reduced as the twist was increased still more.

Temel and Celik (2010) demonstrated that the influences of raw

materials and twist multiplier on the yarn physical properties were

established statistically considerable. Yarn tenacity and yarn elongation were

improved as the polyester ratio in the raw material was improved. Similarly

22

as the twist multiplier increased, yarn tenacity increased to a maximum and

then decreased.

Lawal et al (2011) observed that as the spindle speed increased, due to

high tension, the yarn breakage rate increases and the machine efficiency

gets affected therefore, the optimum spindle speed depends on the

mechanical condition of the machine and the nature of the raw material.

2.1.6. Elongation (%)

Subramaniam et al, (1989) concluded that the elongation was affected

by twist and spindle speed but not by strand spacing. Strand spacing, twist,

and spindle speed did not seem to have any influence on U%.A comparison

of the single yarn with the SDR (siro double rove) yarn showed that the

single yarn is inferior in strength, elongation, and U%.

Saeed (1993) concluded that yarn elongation increased with increasing

winding speed.

Wu and Lee (1995) found that elongation decreased with increasing

twist, also due to increasing frictional force and cohesion among filaments

and cotton fibers, while their inclination increased. Nevertheless elongation

did not increase significantly when yarn twist was more than about 650

TPM(TM = 3.0). Thus, twist of about 650 TPM was enough for spinning

19.7 tex T/C composite yarn and retaining strong tenacity and stable

elongation.

Anjum (1999) observed non significant effect of ring diameter on yarn

elongation.

Zhang et al. (2006) revealed that the breaking elongation of composite

yarns increased when the twist factor increased and also the CV% had a

tendency to increase where as the transformation of hairiness was not

important.

23















El-Sayed (2009) concluded that with the increase in spindle speeds

there was no appreciable change in yarn elongation.it was also found that

there was a less change in elongation in the range of 10000 to 17500 rpm

Temel and Celik (2010) demonstrated that the influences of raw

materials and twist multiplier on the yarn physical properties were

established statistically considerable. Yarn tenacity and yarn elongation were

improved as the polyester ratio in the raw material was improved. Similarly

as the twist multiplier increased, yarn tenacity increased to a maximum and

then decreased.

Lawal et al.(2011)observed that as spindle speed was increased

during spinning, breaking extension was decreased.

2.1.7. Yarn Evenness (U %)

Sharma et al. (1987) observed that evenness increased with increase in

twist, and the most even yarns, as measured by the uniformity of diameter,

24

were produced when the diameter was minimum, However, Uster evenness

values (U%) of yarn were slightly higher for higher twist factor levels.

Yonghua and Yan (1990) reported that there were many aspects of

yarn quality, among them unevenness was very important because it was

closely correlated with fabric appearance and the processing performance.


results than ring spun yarns in respect of evenness.

Anjum (1999) concluded that yarn unevenness increases as the size of

ring increased.

Rasool (2000) suggested that yarn unevenness increased as the

Spindle speed increased.

Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that with gradual increase beyond 14 000

rpm of spindle speed, the mass irregularity of the yarn was gradually

increased. At the higher spindle speed, the drafting force became higher.

Ghosh et al. (2004) concluded that the end breaks were very

responsive to the mean yarn strength, yarn strength variation, mean value of

the peak spinning tensions and the variation in irregularity of mass per unit

length of yarn.

Strumillo et al. (2007) concluded that the quality of the spun yarn

could be significantly improved, while using equally raw material, by a

suitable selection of the spinning system and the type of the spinning

machine used.

Kumar (2007) concluded that the U% of yarn changed with change in

spindle speed; it gave an increasing behavior with different values of

increasing spindle speeds. The increased spindle speeds attributed the yarn

quality like strength and evenness showed a tendency to decrease with

increased in spindle speed.

25

Ozguney et al. (2008) observed that as the twist multipliers of the

yarns increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and hairiness values

decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break (%) and breaking

resistance values increased.

Usta (2008) conclude that as the spindle speed of the ring machine

was increased the yarn irregularity was also increased.







CV%, thin and thick places, and neps values increased, whereas count








Lawal et al. (2011) observed that as spindle speed was increased

during spinning, the frictional force also increased, and this force tends to

straighten the fibres, so change in uniformity occurs.

2.1.8. Thick Places / km

Pillay (1971) narrated that generally a large number of thick places

generated with the privileged of counts and twist multipliers in different

cottons, while the other spinning factor, demonstrated no consistent

tendency.

26

Harrison and Bargeron (1986) concluded that neps were important in

determining the final product of cotton fabric. Fiber characteristics and

processing conditions were two factors that affected nep formation. Ginning

conditions such as over drying and over cleaning, card settings, and card

production rate affected neps potential. The card was the primary machine

that removed neps in the yarn manufacturing process.

Padmanabhan and Balasubramanian (1990) concluded that more than

75% of the imperfections were due to the presence of fiber clusters and fiber

clusters with foreign matter. But in combed yarns, both fiber clusters and

fiber clusters with fly seem to contribute to more than 85% of the thick

places. With regard to neps, on average, immature ovules and foreign matter

contributed to more than 75% of the total number in carded yarns. There was

a slightly different pattern in combed yarns, where neps due to foreign

matter were reduced by 20%, but neps due to immature ovules and fiber

clusters remained almost unaffected.

Saeed (1993) reported that thin and thick places increased as Spindle

speed increased.

Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that sirospun yarns were more

extensible than single yarns at higher twist multipliers. Coarser yarns were

stronger than two-plied yarns. Coarser Sirospun yarns were comparable to

two-plied yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Sirospun yarn was

less uniform and had more imperfections.

Frydrych and Matusiak (2002) found that one of the most important

problems of cotton yarn quality was thick pace. Thick placed create yarn

faults, as seen by the human eye, and too big a number of these negatively

influenced the aesthetic value of textiles, their smoothness, and surface

evenness. Yarn imperfection sources were neps and seed coat fragments

27

contained in ginned lint taken for production. Nevertheless, not all neps were

transferred into the yarn and were the reason for yarn faults.

Chaudhuri,( 2003) showed that with enhance of spindle speed the

imperfection was regularly amplified at higher spindle speed even drafting

took place , due to dragging out of sliver at the front roller nip imperfection

were greater.

Shad et al. (2004) demonstrated that the yarn imperfections (thin,

thick places and neps) and hairiness reduced with the increased twist

multiplier. With the mounting of twist factor, yarn neps per thousand meters

reduced.

Basal and Oxenham (2006) evaluated that the effect of twist on the

number of neps was found to be statistically considerable. This effect was

too uneven and the tendency was too uncertain to admit the existence of any

significant effect of these variables.

Kumar (2007) observed that at increased spindle speeds, yarn quality

attributed like thick places do not get high affected. Thin places showed a

tendency to increase with increased in spindle speed.

E.L Sayed (2009) concluded that yarn imperfections was minimum

at 10000 rpm of the ring frame spindle for the cotton variety under study ,

and the imperfections gradually increased with the increase in spindle speed .









28







Tyagi et al. (2010) stated that yarn structure, twist factor and

spindle speed were prime factors in controlling imperfections of woven

cotton fabrics.

Basu et al. (2010) concluded that the high-speed caused some

deterioration in yarn properties such as imperfections and hairiness. For

number of thick places the deterioration in mean values ranged between 6

percent and 24 percent for different yarn counts and for neps and hairiness it

ranged from 13 percent to 29 percent.

Lawal et al. (2011) observed that as the spindle speed increased, due

to the uneven distribution of fibres also due to frictional forces imperfections

were increased.

. 2.1.9. Thin Places / km

Harrison and Bargeron (1986) concluded that thins were more

important in determining the final product of cotton fabric. Fiber

characteristics and processing conditions were two factors that affected thin

places formation. Ginning conditions such as over drying and over cleaning,

card settings, and card production rate affected thin places potential.





places. With regard to imperfections on average, immature ovules and

29

foreign matter contributed to more than 75% of the total number in carded

yarns. There was a slightly different pattern in combed yarns, where thins

due to foreign matter were reduced by 20%, but imperfections due to

immature ovules and fiber clusters remained almost unaffected.

Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that siro spun yarns were more


stronger than single yarns. Coarser Sirospun yarns were comparable to single

yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Sirospun yarn was less

uniform and had more imperfections.


problems of cotton yarn quality was thin places.. Thin places create yarn

faults, as seen by the human eye, and too big a number of these negatively

influenced the aesthetic value of textiles, their smoothness, and surface

evenness. Yarn imperfection sources were neps and seed coat fragments

contained in ginned lint taken for production. Nevertheless, not all thins

were transferred into the yarn and were the reason for yarn faults.




were greater.




reduced.





30















E.L.Sayed (2009) concluded that yarn imperfections was minimum





cotton fabrics.








were increased.

31

. 2.1.10. Neps / km

Simpson and Fiori (1975) confirmed that when the twist was low, the

neps of the yarn after leaving the front roller nip might get themselves

slightly extended because of spinning tension. When the twist was high, it

flowed to the nip of the front roller at a quicker rate and the tendency for the

neps to get extended would be less and as such, the %U of the yarn might be

expected to be slightly greater at higher twist multipliers and further reported

that yarn uniformity decreased and imperfections increased as twist

increased.

Booth (1983) defined neps are yarn fault length of approximately the

fibre staple length having a cross-section of 50 percent increase over the

average value and imperfections as a yarn fault length of approximately the

fibre staple length having cross-section approximately 50 percent less then

average value.





places. With regard to neps, on average, immature ovules and foreign matter

contributed to more than 75% of the total number in carded yarns. There was

a slightly different pattern in combed yarns, where neps due to foreign

matter were reduced by 20%, but neps due to immature ovules and fiber

clusters remained almost unaffected.

Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that sirospun yarns were more


stronger than two-plied yarns. Coarser Sirospun yarns were comparable to

two-plied yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Sirospun yarn was

less uniform and had more imperfections.

32


problems of cotton yarn quality was neppiness. A nep was defined as a point

cluster of fibers introduced into the yarn causing the increase of its diameter.

Neps create yam faults, as seen by the human eye, and too big a number of

these negatively influenced the aesthetic value of textiles, their smoothness,

and surface evenness. Yarn nep sources were neps and seed coat fragments

contained in ginned lint taken for production. Nevertheless, not all neps were

transferred into the yarn and were the reason for yarn faults.




were greater.




reduced.





Ozguney et al. (2008) stated that as the twist multipliers of the yarns

increased, U%, CV%, neps, count variation and hairiness values decreased,


values increased.

E.L. Sayed (2009) concluded that yarn imperfections was minimum



33

















cotton fabrics.








were increased.

2.1.11. Hairiness

Pillay (1964) stated that as yarn twist increased the hairiness of the

yarn decreased. The number of loops showed a steady decrease with the

34

increase in the twist but the protruding ends did not show systematic effect.

It fairly remained constant at all twist multipliers. The length of protruding

fiber ends and loops showed a gradual decrease with increase in twist.

Barella and Manich (1984) reported that yarn hairiness decreased with

an increase in twist. It was shown that the development of new hairiness

testers based on principles that considered only certain aspects of hairiness

could lead to contradictory results.


results than two fold yarns in respect of hairiness.

Nawaz et al. (1997) stated that the different models of ring frame

significantly affected the yarn hairiness.

Cheng and Sun (1998) found that with the increase of twist the

hairiness of the siro spun yarn was decreased.

Wang and Chang (1999) observed that if there were no reversing of

leading hairs at all by any rubbing surface on the hairiness meter, the

hairiness might actually increased as the test speed increased and the

hairiness index readings obtained in a single measurement followed a

lognormal distribution rather than a normal distribution. The yarns of three

twist levels used in this study were affected by test speed in a similar way.

The hairiness index at 400 m/min was significantly higher than that at 25 and

100 m/min, while the difference in hairiness index at 25 and 100 m/min,

respectively, was not statistically significant at the 5% level. The effect of

test speed on yarn hairiness appeared to be independent of yarn twist level

for the three yarns tested.

Anjum (1999) recorded a significant difference of ring diameter upon

yarn hairiness.

35

Wang and Chang (2003) resulted that the right diagonal yarn path

leads to reduced yarn hairiness, while yarn evenness and tenacity were not as

sensitive to the modified yarn path. The reduced yarn hairiness might be due

to the increased pre-twisting of fibers on the right-hand side of the spinning

triangle when the right diagonal yarn path was used. The pre-twisting

effectively bound the fibers into the bulk of the yarn structure, thus reducing

yarn hairiness. One drawback of this right diagonal yarn arrangement was

the increased spinning ends down, particularly at higher spindle speeds.

Chaudhuri (2003) showed that as spindle speed was increased there

was considerable change in yarn hairiness. With increase of spindle speed

the yarn hairiness also increased. This was due to more centrifugal forces

applied on yarn.

Voborova et al. (2004) it can bee seen that hairiness increased with

fineness if twist is much below the optimum twist. Graph for twist vs. total

hairiness showed a high negative correlation. With increase in twist,

hairiness decreased.

Lang et al. (2004) concluded that the effects of winding on yarn

hairiness were .determined by yarn structural characteristics such as the twist

factor and the embedded fiber length, and the winding conditions including

the pressure, exerted on the yarn and the winding tension. Second, for a

given set of the other three parameters above, there was an optimal twist

level at which the yarn gripping force on the fibers reached a maximum, just

like yarn strength, making it most difficult for fibers, to be pulled out.

Shad et al. (2004) demonstrated that the yarn hairiness and

imperfections (thin, thick places and neps) reduced with the increased twist

multiplier. With the mounting of twist multiplier, yarn hairiness reduced

considerably.

36

Basal and Oxenham (2006) as expected, hairiness decreased with

increasing twist level in both compact and conventional ring yarns. The

compact spinning system produced less hairy yarns. Tenacity increased with

twist up to the twist multiple 4.0 and then it decreased, and the elongation

showed the same tendency. The effect of interaction of twist and spinning

system was significant for only the hairiness and tenacity values. The

difference between the hairiness values of compact and conventional yarns

decreased as twist increased. The same tendency was present for the tenacity

values of these yarns up to twist multiple 4.0, where the difference was

almost zero, but then it became larger.

Kumar (2007) concluded that the hairiness of yarn changed with

change in spindle speed, it gave a changing behavior with different values of

spindle speeds.

Kretzschmar et al. (2007) observed that as the twist multiple of the

yarn increased, U percent, CV percent, neps, count variation and hairiness

values decreased, whereas breaking force, elongation at break and breaking

resistance values increased. When the yarn count and the twist multiple of

the yarn was increased, the coefficients of yarn–needle and yarn–yarn

friction values also increased.

Ozguney et al. (2008) stated that as the twist multipliers of the yarns

increased, U%, CV%, neps, count variation and hairiness values decreased,


values increased.

Huo (2008) stated that siro spinning with the same count could

decrease the hairiness up to 22% compared with that of ring spinning.

Usta (2008) describe that with the increased in the spindle speed, the

hairiness of yarn was decreased. It is well known that the spinning triangle

after the top roller affects yarn hairiness. It was also concluded that as the

37

spinning triangle was larger higher was the hairiness and as the spinning

triangle was shorter yarn hairiness was also less.















E.L.Sayed (2009) concluded that there was a considerable change in

unevenness and hairiness of yarns with the increase in spindle speed. There

was a significant effect of unevenness with spindle speed. It was also found

that there was a small increase in hairiness index that was due to a high value

of centrifugal force acting on the yarn. Due to this protruding fibres were

more and hairiness was changed.

Lawal et al. (2011) observed that as the spindle speed was increased,

the hairiness of cotton yarns was also increased. This was due to the fact that

at higher spindle speed, the number of floating fibres increases and the fibres

tend to protrude from the body of the yarn there by contributing to the yarn

hairiness

38

Chapter No. 3

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The present research work entitled “Comparative study of organic cotton

yarn quality at siro and ring spinning systems under different variables” was

planned in the Department of Fibre and Textile Technology, University of

Agriculture Faisalabad and conducted at Gulistan Textile Mills Ltd., Lahore.

The complete description of the material used and the method applied for the

assessment of effects of machines, Spinning system, spindle speed ,twist

multiplier and ring diameter upon yarn quality are described below.

3.1 Materials Used

The samples of organic cotton were collected from the running stock

of the Gulistan Textile Mills Ltd., multan road lahore and tested for the

verification of their physical properties on ( HVI 900 SA).

3.2 Method

The raw cotton samples were conditioned in the standard atmosphere

before testing the physical characteristics. The instrument was calibrated

according to the method laid down in its instructional manual supplied by

M/S Zellweger Ltd. (1995). The procedure of testing is adopted as given in

ASTM Standards (2008a). The values of the physical properties are given in

Table 1.

39

TABLE. I. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF ORGANIC

COTTON

Sr. No. Length

(mm)

Strength

gram/tex

Fineness

(mic)

Short fibre

content %

Trash

Content %

1 27.48 27.9 4.4 11.21 5.2

2 27.44 27.7 4.3 11.56 5.5

3 27.49 27.8 3.9 11.72 5.7

4 27.73 28.7 4.2 12.20 5.3

5 27.38 27.7 4.2 11.98 5.5

6 27.40 27.5 4.3 12.30 5.7

7 27.48 27.8 4.5 11.56 5.5

8 27.53 28.3 4.1 12.57 5.3

9 27.46 28.1 4.3 11.20 5.5

10 27.23 27.9 4.1 12.66 5.2

Mean 27.46 27.94 4.23 11.9 5.44

C.V % 0.01 0.11 0.03 0.25 0.03

S. D. 0.13 0.35 0.17 0.53 0.18

S.D. = Standard deviation C.V. = Co-efficient of variation

40

3.3 Processing at Ring Frame

The samples of raw material were processed in the blow room,

carding, drawing and roving section at standard machinery setting and

processing variables. For siro spinning purpose a double rove guide was

used. It was installed on the same spinning frame.

The yarn of 20S was made with roving of .8 hank, processed at ring

frame with siro spinning system(Y1) and conventional spinning

system(Y2)and their comparative study for the following mechanical

variables, Twist multiplier, (T1,T2 ,T3). Spindle speed (S1, S2, S3) and Ring

diameter (D1, D2, D3) was observed, as given in the table 2.

TABLE .II. SETTINGS OF DIFFERENT MECHANICAL

VARIABLES ON SPINNING FRAME.

3.4 Yarn Characteristics

The yarn samples so prepared were tested for the following

characteristics at the standard laboratory conditions. i.e., R.H= 65+ 2 % and

Temp. = 20 + 2 C0.

Spinning

system

(Y)

Spindle

Speed(rpm)

(S)

Twist

Multiplier

(T)

Steel Ring

Diameter(mm)

(D)

Y1=Siro

spinning

Y2=Ring

spinning

S1= 8000

S2= 10000

S3= 12000

T1= 3.75

T2= 4.00

T3= 4.25

D1= 35

D2= 38

D3= 40

41

3.4.1 Yarn Count

Yarn count was determined by "skein method" according to the

ASTM standards (2008) with the help of Uster Auto Sorter-III, which is a

direct reading instrument. A program was fed to the computer for the

determination of English count system (Ne), of 120 yards lea and the yarn

number was noted from its automatic display screen.

3.4.2 Yarn Lea Strength

Lea strength of yarn was determined in pounds according to the

ASTM standards (2008). A pendulum type lea strength-testing machine was

used to test the strength of the yarn which works on the principle of constant

rate of loading. This machine gives the direct reading for lea strength.

3.4.3 Count Lea Strength Product (CLSP)

Count lea strength product value was determined by multiplying

actual count value with the respective lea strength value of yarn according to

ASTM Standards (2008).

CLSP= yarn count ×Lea strength

3.4.4 Tensile Properties of Yarn

Tensile properties i.e. single end strength,RKM,and elongation were

observed with Uster Tensorapid-3 which works on the principle of constant

rate of extension (CRE). The principle describes the fact that the moving

clamps are displaced at constant velocity as a result of which the specimen

caught in between the stationary and moving clamps extended by a constant

rate. The breaking tenacity was measured from the maximum force which

was applied anywhere between the beginning of the test and the final rupture

of the specimen. The breaking elongation of yarn was measured from the

42

clamp displacement at the point of peak force. The procedure was adopted

according to the ASTM Standard (2008).

3.4.5 Yarn Evenness, Imperfections and Hairiness

Yarn evenness (U%) was determined by measuring the variation in

capacity occurring as the yarn passes through the condenser and recorded in

term of mean linear irregularity (U%) and the coefficient of variation in yarn

mass (CV%). The equipment employed was Uster Evenness Tester (UT-3),

which simultaneously measures imperfections viz., thin places, thick places

and neps per 1000 meter of yarn. The sensitivity setting for the

determination of imperfections were - 50 % for thin place, + 50 % for thick

place and + 200 % for neps. Yarn hairiness was also evaluated by Uster

Evenness Tester-3 according to ASTM standard method (2008).

3.5 Analysis of Data

Factorial Design was applied in the analysis of variance of data for

testing the differences among various quality characteristics as suggested by

Montgomery (2009) using Statistical package for social sciences (SPSS),

micro-computer statistical program.

43

Chapter No. 4

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

4.1 YARN CHARACTERISTICS

4.1.1 Yarn Count

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn count for different spinning

system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in Table 1

which indicates that all the variables and their possible interactions have non

significant effect on yarn count while all the possible interactions have also

non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn count for different

spinning systems is given in Table 1a. All the values have non significant

difference among each other. The yarn count values for different spinning

system Y1 and Y2 are 20.11 and 20.10 respectively. These results show that

siro spun yarn and ring spun yarn have a non significant effect on yarn

count. These findings are in line with the observations of Lawrence (2003)

who described that in spinning yarn there was no direct relationship between

spinning techniques and yarn diameter, so it was not the practice to set the

spinning machine to produce a specified yarn diameter.


spindle speeds is given in Table 1a.All the values have non significant

difference among each other. The yarn count values for different spindle

speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 20.11, 20.11 and 20.13 respectively. These results

show that S1, S2 and S3 have non significant effect on yarn count. These

findings are in contact with the findings of Sarwar (2005) who mentioned

that the spindle speed had not brought any significant change in actual yarn

count spun.

44


twist multipliers is given in Table 1a.All the values have not significant

difference among each other. The yarn count values for twist multipliers T1,

T2 and T3 are 20.11, 20.11 and 20.11 respectively. These results show that

T1, T2 and T3 have no significant effect on yarn count. These findings are in

line with the conclusions of Shakir (2008) who found that twist multiplier

has a non significant effect on the yarn count in the spinning of yarn.


Ring diameters is given in Table 1a.All the values have non significant

difference among each other. The yarn count values for different ring

diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 20.11, 20.11 and 20.09 respectively. These

results show that D1, D2 and D3 have no significant effect on the yarn count

.These findings are in relation with the observations of Anjum (1999) who

depicted that different values of ring diameter gave a non significant effect

on the yarn count.

45

Table: 1. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Count

N.S = Non-significant

Table: 1(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for

yarn Count.

Mean values having different letters do not differ significantly at 5% level of

significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 0.00474 0.00237 0.46 N.S

S 2 0.03974 237.0000 0.46 N.S

T 2 0.00854 0.00214 0.41 N.S

D 2 0.00107 0.00107 0.20 N.S

Y×S 2 0.00474 0.00370 1.80 N.S

Y×T 2 0.00241 0.00121 0.23 N.S

Y×D 2 0.00241 0.00121 0.23 N.S

S×T 4 0.02146 0.00536 1.03 N.S

S×D 4 0.01874 0.00900 3.81 N.S

T×D 4 0.01554 0.00389 0.75 N.S

Y×S×T 4 0.01688 0.00422 0.81 N.S

Y×S×D 4 0.00954 0.00239 0.46 N.S

Y×T×D 4 0.00454 0.00114 0.22 N.S

S×T×D 8 0.03737 0.00467 0.90 N.S

Y×S×T×D 8 0.0400 0.00516 0.96 N.S

Error 8 0.04170 0.00521

Total 61 0.26942

Spinning System Means Spindle

Speed Means T.M Means Ring Dia Means

Y1 20.114

a S1

20.114 a

T1 20.113

a D1

20.119 a

Y2 20.106

a S2

20.114 a

T2 20.115

a D2

20.113 a

S3 20.131

a

T3 20.119

a D3

20.097 a

46

4.1.2 Yarn Lea Strength (lbs)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn lea strength for different

spinning system,spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in

Table 2 which indicates that all the variables have highly significant effect

on yarn lea strength while all the possible interactions have non significant

effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn lea strength for

different spinning systems is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly

significant difference among each other. The lea strength values for different

spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 120.48 and 117.63 lbs respectively. These

results show that siro spun yarn has more lea strength value as compared to

that of ring spun yarn .These findings are in line with the observations of

Sun and cheng (2000) who concluded that siro spun yarn had greater lea

strength as compared to that of ring spun yarn.


different spindle speeds is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly


spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 121.62, 118.96 and 116.58 lbs respectively.

These results show that S1 has more lea strength value as compared to that of

S2 andS3 .These conclusions are in line with the findings of Subramanian et

al (1989) who found that greater tension developed at higher spindle speeds

might cause more fibre Slippage in a strand above the convergence point

which was responsible for detoriation in yarn strength.


different twist multipliers is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly

significant difference among each other. The lea strength values for twist

multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 116.75, 118.99

47

and 121.41 lbs respectively. These results show that T3 has more lea strength

value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These findings are in line with the

conclusions of Sharma et al (1987) who noted that strength of yarn increased

as twist increased, because of increasing the inter fibre friction. .The same

effect of the twist upon the lea strength studied by the Abbasi (1984) who

stated that lea strength of the yarn increased by increasing twist factor. Also

Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by increasing the twist multiplier, the value

of the yarn lea strength was also increased. Same like the above observations

Qadir (1983) found that the increase in amount of twist produced an increase

in yarn lea strength.


different Ring diameters is given in Table 2a.All the values have highly


Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 123.77, 118.87 and 114.52 lbs

respectively. These results show that at D1 yarn has more lea strength value

as compared to that of D2 andD3 .These findings are in contact with the

observations of Anjum (1999) who concluded that lea strength value


48

Table: 2. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Lea Strength

** Highly Significant, N.S = Non-significant

Table: 2(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

Lea Strength (lbs)

Mean values having different letters differ significantly at 5% level of significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 109.75 109.751 275.38 0.0000** S 2 228.95 114.476 287.24 0.0000** T 2 195.47 97.734 245.23 0.0000** D 2 770.04 385.022 966.09 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.367 0.3830 .96 N.S Y×T 2 1.89 0.945 2.37 N.S Y×D 2 0.67431 0.5187 1.3 N.S S×T 4 0.90 0.225 0.56 N.S S×D 4 2.29 0.573 1.44 N.S T×D 4 1.44039 0.7581 1.9 N.S Y×S×T 4 0.27 0.068 0.17 N.S Y×S×D 4 1.71 0.428 1.07 N.S Y×T×D 4 0.4827 0.4389 1.1 N.S S×T×D 8 3.15 0.394 0.99 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 1.2927 0.7182 1.8 N.S Error 8 3.19 0.399 Total 61 1321.8671



Y1 120.48

a S1

121.62 a

T1 116.75

c D1

123.77 a

Y2

117.63

b

S2 118.96

b T2

118.99 b

D2

118.87

b

S3 116.58

c T3

121.41

a

D3

114.52 c

49

4.1.3 Count Lea Strength Product (Hanks)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn CLSP for different spinning


which indicates that all the variables have highly significant effect on yarn

CLSP while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn CLSP for different

spinning systems is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The CLSP values for different spinning system

Y1 and Y2 are 2437.6 and 2320.7 hanks respectively. These results show that

siro spun yarn has more CLSP value as compared to that of ring spun yarn

.These findings are in line with the observations of Sun and cheng (2000)

they concluded that siro spun yarn had greater CLSP as compared to that of

ring spun yarn.


spindle speeds is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The CLSP values for different spindle speeds

S1, S2 and S3 are 2396.9, 2378.4 and

2362.2 hanks respectively. These results show that S1 has more CLSP value

as compared to that of S2 andS3 .These conclusions are in line with the

observations of Iqbal (1992) and Abbasi (1994) who noted the highly

significant effect of spindle speed upon the strength of yarn.


Twist multipliers is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The CLSP values for twist multipliers T1, T2

and T3 are 2353.7, 2380.7 and 2403 hanks respectively. These results show

that T3 has more CLSP value as compared to that of T2 and T3 .These

findings are in line with the observations of Sharma et al (1987) who noted

that strength of yarn increased as twist increased, because of increasing the

50

inter fibre friction. The same effect of the twist upon the lea strength product

was studied by the Abbasi (1984) who stated that CLSP of the yarn

increased by increasing twist factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by

increasing the twist multiplier, the value of the yarn lea strength product was

also increased. Same like the above observations Qadir (1983) found that the

increase in amount of twist produced an increase in yarn count lea strength

product.


Ring diameters is given in Table 3a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The CLSP value for different Ring diameters

D1, D2 and D3 are 2389.7, 2376.3 and 2340.7.7 hanks respectively. These

results show that D1 has more CLSP value as compared to that of D2 andD3

.These results are in contact with the observations of Anjum (1999) who

concluded that count lea strength product value decreased as the diameter of

the ring increased.

51

Table: 3. Analysis of Variance for Yarn CLSP

** Highly Significant, NS = Non-significant

Table:3(a)Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

CLSP (hanks)


Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 184685 184685 7614.4 0.0000** S 2 10866 5433 224 0.0000** T 2 22020 11010 453.94 0.0000** D 2 57583 28791 1187.05 0.0000** Y×S 2 91.2 45.6 1.9 N.S Y×T 2 83 41 1.71 N.S Y×D 2 68.64 34.32 1.43 N.S S×T 4 37 9 0.38 N.S S×D 4 211.2 52.8 2.2 N.S T×D 4 220.8 55.2 2.3 N.S Y×S×T 4 63 16 0.65 N.S Y×S×D 4 230.4 57.6 2.4 N.S Y×T×D 4 249.6 31.2 1.3 N.S S×T×D 8 211.2 26.4 1.1 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 194.88 48.72 2.03 N.S Error 8 194 24 Total 61 277008.92



Y1 2437.6

a S1

2396.9 a

T1 2353.7

c D1

2389.7 c

Y2

2320.7

b

S2

2378.4

b

T2

2380.7

b

D2 2376.3

b

S3

2362.2

c

T3

2403.1

a

D3 2340.7a

52

4.1.4 Single End Strength (grams)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn single end strength for

different spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is

shown in Table 4 which indicates that all the variables have highly

significant effect on yarn single end strength while all the possible

interactions have non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn single end strength for


significant difference among each other. The single end strength values for

different spinning systems Y1 and Y2 are 455.41 and 444.63 grams

respectively. These results show that siro spun yarn has more single end

strength value as compared to that of ring spun yarn .These findings are in

contact with the conclusions of Sun and cheng (2000) who concluded that

siro spun yarn had greater single end strength as compared to that of ring

spun yarn.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn single end strength

for different spindle speeds is given in Table 4a.All the values have highly


different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 459.72, 449.67 and 440.67 grams

respectively. These results show that S1 has more single end strength value

as compared to that of S2 and S3 .These results are in contact with the

observation of Iqbal (1992) and Abbasi (1994) who noted the highly

significant effect of spindle speed upon the single end strength of yarn.


for different twist multipliers is given in Table 4a.All the values have highly


twist multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 441.33, 449.78 and 458.94 grams

respectively. These results show that T3 has more single end strength value

53

as compared to that of T2 and T3 .These results are in relation with the

findings of Sharma et al (1987) who noted that strength of yarn increased as

twist increased, because of increasing the inter fibre friction. .The same

effect of the twist upon the single end strength was studied by the Abbasi

(1984) who stated that single end strength of the yarn increased by

increasing twist factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by increasing

the twist multiplier, the value of the single end strength was also increased.

Same like the above observations Qadir (1983) found that the increase in

amount of twist produced an increase in yarn single end strength.


for different Ring diameters is given in Table 4a.All the values have highly


different Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 467.83, 449.33 and 432.89 grams

respectively. These results show that D1 has more single end strength value

as compared to that of D2 andD3 .These findings are in line with the

observations of Anjum (1999) who concluded that single end strength value


54

Table: 4. Analysis of Variance for Yarn SES

** Highly Significant, NS = Non-significant


Yarn SES (grams)


Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 1568.2 1568.17 275.39 0.0000** S 2 3271.4 1635.69 287.24 0.0000** T 2 2792.9 1396.46 245.23 0.0000** D 2 11002.7 5501.35 966.09 0.0000** Y×S 2 8.1936 6.828 1.2 N.S Y×T 2 27.0 13.50 2.37 N.S Y×D 2 9.6161 7.397 1.3 N.S S×T 4 12.9 3.21 0.56 N.S S×D 4 32.7 8.19 1.44 N.S T×D 4 6.441 9.673 1.7 N.S Y×S×T 4 3.9 0.97 0.17 N.S Y×S×D 4 24.4 6.11 1.07 N.S Y×T×D 4 20.54 10.81 1.9 N.S S×T×D 8 45.0 5.63 0.99 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 13.1001 13.087 2.3 N.S

Error 8 45.6 5.69

Total 61 18884.5908

Spinning System Means Speed Means T.M Means Dia Means

Y1 455.41 a S1 459.72 a T1

441.33 c

D1 467.83 a

Y2 444.63 b S2 449.67 b T2

449.78 b

D2 449.33 b

S3 440.67 c T3

458.94 a

D3 432.89 c

55

4.1.5 Rupture per kilometer (grams/tex)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn rupture per kilometer for

different spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is

shown in Table 5 which indicates that all the variables have highly

significant effect on yarn rupture per kilometer while all the possible

interactions have non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn rupture per

kilometer for different spinning systems is given in Table 5a.All the values

have highly significant difference among each other. The rupture per

kilometer values for different spinning systems Y1 and Y2 are 15.436 and

15.009 grams/tex respectively. These results show that siro spun yarn has

more rupture per kilometer value as compared to that of ring spun yarn

.These conclusions are in relation with the observations of Sun and cheng

(2000) who concluded that siro spun yarn had greater rupture per kilometer

as compared to that of ring spun yarn.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn rupture per

kilometer for different spindle speeds is given in Table 5a.All the values

have highly significant difference among each other. The rupture per

kilometer values for different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 15.46, 15.221

and 14.97 grams/tex. respectively. These results show that S1 has more

rupture per kilometer value as compared to that of S2 andS3 .These findings

are in line with the observations of Iqbal (1992) and Abbasi (1994) who

noted that highly Significant effect of spindle speed upon the rupture per

kilometer of yarn.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn rupture per kilometer for


significant difference among each other. The rupture per kilometer value for

twist multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 14.896, 15.297 and 15.474 grams/tex

56

respectively. These results show that T3 has more rupture per kilometer value

as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These findings are in line with the

observations of Sharma et al (1987) who concluded that rupture per

kilometer of yarn increased as twist increased, because of increasing the inter

fibre friction. .The same effect of the twist upon the rupture per kilometer

was studied by the Abbasi (1984) who stated that rupture per kilometer of

the yarn increased by increasing twist factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995)

showed that by increasing the twist multiplier, the value of the rupture per

kilometer was also increased. Same like the above observations Qadir (1983)

found that the increase in amount of twist produced an increase in yarn

rupture per kilometer.

The individual comparison of mean values of rupture per kilometer for


significant difference among each other. The rupture per kilometer values for

different Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 15.464, 15.277 and 14.926 grams

respectively. These results show that D1 has more rupture per kilometer

value as compared to that of D2 andD3 .These results are in line with the

findings of Anjum (1999) who concluded that rupture per kilometer value

decreased as the diameter of the ring increasesd.

57

Table: 5. Analysis of Variance for Yarn RKM


Table 5(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for

RKM(g/tex)


Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 2.4576 2.45760 224.27 0.0000** S 2 2.1659 1.08294 98.82 0.0000** T 2 3.1541 1.57704 143.91 0.0000** D 2 2.6899 1.34495 122.73 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.4833 0.02301 2.1 N.S Y×T 2 0.01010 0.01052 .96 N.S Y×D 2 1.3394 0.01205 1.1 N.S S×T 4 0.0702 0.01756 1.60 N.S S×D 4 0.0788 0.01969 1.80 N.S T×D 4 0.3166 0.0186 1.7 N.s Y×S×T 4 0.0400 0.01010 0.91 N.S Y×S×D 4 0.1029 0.02573 2.35 N.S Y×T×D 4 0.0047 0.000723 .66 N.S S×T×D 8 0.0980 0.01224 1.12 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 13.1001 13.087 2.3 N.S Error 8 45.6 5.69 Total 61 71.7116

Spinning System

Means Spindle Speed

Means T.M Means Ring Dia

Means

Y1 15.436 a

S1 15.468

a T1

14.896

c

D1 15.464

a

Y2

15.009

b

S2 15.221

b T2

15.297

b

D2

15.277

b

S3 14.978

c T3

15.474

a

D3 14.926

c

58

4.1.6 Yarn Elongation %

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn elongation for different

spinning system,spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in


on yarn elongation while all the possible interactions have non significant

effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn elongation for


significant difference among each other. The elongation value for different

spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 6.07 and 5.90 % respectively. These results

show that siro spun yarn has more elongation value as compared to that of

ring spun yarn .These findings are in contact with the observations of Sun

and cheng (2000) who concluded that siro spun yarn had greater elongation

as compared to that of ring spun yarn.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn elongation for different


difference among each other. The elongation values for different spindle

speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 6.08, 5.99 and 5.89 % respectively. These results

show that S1 has more elongation value as compared to that of S2 andS3

.These findings are in relation with the observations of Iqbal (1992) and

Abbasi (1994) they noted the highly Significant effect of spindle speed upon

the elongation of yarn. Similarly Subramanian et al,(1995) concluded that

The elongation was affected by spindle speed. The individual comparison of

mean values of yarn elongation for different twist multipliers is given in

Table 6a.All the values have highly significant difference among each other.

The elongation values for twist multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 5.86, 6.02 and

6.09 % respectively. These results show that T3 has more elongation value as

compared to that of T1 and T2 .These conclusions are in line with the

59

observations of Sharma et al (1987) who found that elongation of yarn

increased as twist increased, because of increasing the inter fibre friction.

.The same effect of the twist upon the elongation studied by the Abbasi

(1984) who stated that elongation of the yarn increased by increasing twist

factor. Also Wu and Lee (1995) showed that by increasing the twist

multiplier, the value of the elongation was also increased. Same like the

above observations Qadir (1983) found that the increase in amount of twist

produced an increase in yarn elongation.

The individual comparison of mean values of elongation for different


difference among each other. The elongation value for different Ring

diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 6.08, 6.01 and 5.87 % respectively. These results

show that D1 has more elongation value as compared to that of D2 andD3

.These findings are in line with the conclusions of Anjum (1999) who found

that elongation value decreased as the diameter of the ring increased.

60

Table: 6. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Elongation %

** Highly Significant, NS = Non-significant,


Yarn Elongation %


Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 0.38093 0.38093 224.27 0.0000** S 2 0.33571 0.16786 98.82 0.0000** T 2 0.48888 0.24444 143.91 0.0000** D 2 0.41694 0.20847 122.73 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.00205 0.00187 1.1 N.S Y×T 2 0.00549 0.00289 1.9 N.S Y×D 2 0.00244 .002040 1.2 N.S S×T 4 0.01089 0.00272 1.60 N.S S×D 4 0.01221 0.00305 1.80 N.S T×D 4 0.00491 0.00289 1.7 N.S Y×S×T 4 0.00621 0.00155 0.91 N.S Y×S×D 4 0.01595 0.00399 2.35 N.S Y×T×D 4 0.00749 0.00357 2.1 N.S S×T×D 8 0.01518 0.00190 1.12 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 0.00674 0.01071 .63 N.S Error 8 0.01359 0.00170 Total 61 1.72561

Spinning System

Means Spindle Speed


Means

Y1

6.0770 a

S1 6.0899

a T1

5.8646 c

D1 6.0881

a

Y2 5.9090

b

S2 5.9923

b

T2 6.0223

b D2

6.0147 b

S3 5.8968

c

T3 6.0921

a

D3 5.8762

c

61

4.3.7 Yarn Evenness (U%)

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn evenness for different spinning

system, spindle speed, Twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in Table 7


evenness while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn evenness for


significant difference among each other. The evenness values for different

spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 9.04 and 9.78 % respectively. These results

show that siro spun yarn has less evenness value as compared to that of ring

spun yarn .These findings are in relation with the observations of Cheng and

Yuen (1997) who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than

single yarns in respect of strength, evenness and hairiness.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn evenness for different


difference among each other. The evenness value for different spindle speeds

S1, S2 and S3 are 9.30, 9.40 and 9.53 % respectively. These results show that

S3 has more evenness value as compared to that of S1 andS2 .These findings

are in contact with the conclusions of Kumar (2007) who found that the U%

of yarn changed with change in spindle speed, it gave a increasing behavior

with different values of increasing spindle speeds.Also Lawel E.L (2011)

observed that as spindle speed was increased during spinning, the frictional

force also increased, and this force tends to straighten the fibres , so change

in uniformity was occurred.Same like above lines Chaudhuri, (2003)

showed that with gradual increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the

mass irregularity of the yarn was gradually increased. At the higher spindle

speed, the drafting force became higher and so U % changed.

62

The individual comparison of mean values of evenness for different

twist multipliers is given in Table 7a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The evenness values for twist multipliers T1, T2

and T3 are 9.63, 9.38 and 9.22% respectively. These results show that T3 has

less evenness value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These conclusions are

in line with the results of Ozguney et al. (2008) who resulted that as the twist

multiplier of the yarn increased, U %, CV %, neps, count variation and

hairiness values decreased.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn evenness for


significant difference among each other. The evenness values for different

Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 9.30, 9.48 and 9.54 %respectively. These

results show that D3 has more evenness value as compared to that of D1

andD2 .These findings are in relation with the observations of Anjum (1999)

who concluded that yarn unevenness increased as the size of ring increased.

Also Hussain(2008) found that ring dia gave a significant effect on yarn

evenness.

63

Table: 7. Analysis of Variance for Evenness



Yarn Evenness %

Mean values having different letters differ significantly at 5% level of

significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 7.4222 7.42223 1900.88 0.0000** S 2 0.4927 0.24635 63.09 0.0000** T 2 1.5011 0.75056 192.22 0.0000** D 2 0.3260 0.16302 41.75 0.0001** Y×S 2 0.0047 0.00236 0.60 N.S Y×T 2 0.00877 0.00585 1.5 N.S Y×D 2 0.0099 00.0062 1.6 N.S S×T 4 0.0224 0.00936 2.4 N.S S×D 4 0.0210 0.00526 1.35 N.S T×D 4 0.0188 0.00858 2.2 N.S

Y×S×T 4 0.0220 0.00550 1.41 N.S Y×S×D 4 0.0031 0.00078 0.20 N.S Y×T×D 4 0.02246 0.00936 2.4 N.S S×T×D 8 0.0648 0.00811 2.08 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 0.00302 0.00343 0.88 N.S Error 8 0.0312 0.00390 Total 61 9.97113

Spinning System

Means Spindle Speed


Means

Y1

9.0426 b

S1

9.3017 c

T1 9.6300 a D1

9.3061 b

Y2 9.7841 a S2

9.4033

b

T2 9.3856 b D2

9.4878 a

S3

9.5350 a

T3 9.2244 c D3

9.5461 c

64

4.3.8 Thick Places/Km

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn thick places for different

spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in


on yarn thick places while all the possible interactions have non significant

effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thick places for different


difference among each other. The thick places values for different spinning

system Y1 and Y2 are 28 and 37.74 per kilometer respectively. These results

show that siro spun yarn has less thick places value as compared to that of

ring spun yarn .These conclusions are in line with the results of Cheng and

Yuen (1997) who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than

single yarns in respect of evenness and imperfections similarly Sun and

Cheng (2000) concluded that Siro spun yarns were more extensible than

single yarns. Coarser Siro spun yarns were comparable to two-plied yarns in

evenness and imperfections, but finer Siro spun yarn was less uniform and

had more imperfections.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thick places for


significant difference among each other. The yarn thick places values for

different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 31.83, 32.66 and 34.11 per

kilometer respectively. These results show that S3 has more yarn thick places

value as compared to that of S1 andS2 .These findings are in contact with the

observations of Kumar (2007) who concluded that the imperfections of yarn

were changed with change in spindle speed, it gave an increasing behavior

with different values of increasing spindle speeds.. Chaudhuri, (2003)

showed that with gradual increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the

imperfections of the yarn was gradually increased.

65

The individual comparison of mean values of thick places for


significant difference among each other. The thick places values for twist

multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 33.16, 32.83 and 32.61 per kilometer

respectively. These results show that T3 has less thick places value as

compared to that of T1 and T2 .These findings are in line with the

conclusions of Simpson and Fiori (1975) who confirmed that when the twist

was low, the thick places of the yarn after leaving the front roller nip might

get themselves slightly extended because of spinning tension. When the twist

was high, it flowed to the nip of the front roller at a quicker rate and the

tendency for the thin places to get extended would be less.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thick places for


significant difference among each other. The thick places value for different

Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 31.83, 32.88 and 33.88 per kilometer

respectively. These results show that D3 has more thick places value as

compared to that of D1 and D2 .These findings are in relation with the

observations of Anjum (1999) who recorded significant effect of ring

diameter on thick places similarly Hussain (2008) also found a slight change

of thick places with change in ring diameter.

66

Table: 8. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Thick places


Table: 8(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn

Thick places (per kilometer)


significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 1280.91 1280.91 85849.0 0.0000** S 2 38.04 19.02 1027.00 0.0000** T 2 2.81 1.41 16.00 0.0016** D 2 47.81 23.91 2617.00 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.04 0.02 1.00 N.S Y×T 2 0.045 0.03 1.5 N.S Y×D 2 0.0882 0.042 2.1 N.S S×T 4 0.07 0.02 1.00 N.S S×D 4 0.07 0.02 1.00 N.S T×D 4 0.0338 0.026 1.3 N.S Y×S×T 4 0.07 0.02 1.00 N.S Y×S×D 4 0.07 0.02 1.00 N.S Y×T×D 4 0.0722 0.038 1.9 N.S S×T×D 8 0.15 0.02 1.00 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 0.0504 0.042 2.1 N.S Error 8 0.15 0.02 Total 61 1370.4796

Spinning System

Means Spindle Speed


Means

Y1 28.000

b S1

31.833

c

T1 33.167

a D1

31.833 c

Y2 37.741

a S2

32.667

b

T2 32.833

b D2

32.889 b

S3 34.111

a

T3 32.611

c D3

33.889

a

67

4.3.9 Thin Places/Km

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn thin places for different

spinning system, spindle speed, twist multiplier and ring dia is shown in


on yarn thin places while all the possible interactions have non significant

effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thin places for


significant difference among each other. The thin places values for different

spinning system Y1 and Y2 are 3.00 and 13.85 per kilometer respectively.

These results show that siro spun yarn has less thin places value as compared

to that of ring spun yarn .These findings are in line with the observations of

Cheng and Yuen (1997)who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better

results than single yarns in respect of evenness and imperfections similarly

Sun and Cheng (2000) concluded that Siro spun yarns were more extensible

than single yarns. . Coarser Siro spun yarns were comparable to two-plied

yarns in evenness and imperfections, but finer Siro spun yarn was less

uniform and had more imperfections.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thin places for


significant difference among each other. The yarn thin places values for

different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 6.83, 8.33 and 10.11 respectively.

These results show that S3 has more yarn thin places value as compared to

that of S1 andS2 .These conclusions are in contact with the findings of

Kumar (2007) who concluded that the imperfections of yarn were changed

with change in spindle speed, it gave a increasing behavior with different

values of increasing spindle speeds.. Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that with

68

gradual increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the imperfections of

the yarn was gradually increased.

The individual comparison of mean values of thin places for different twist

multipliers is given in Table 9a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The thin places values for twist multipliers T1,

T2 and T3 are 8.5, 8.40 and 8.27 per kilometer respectively. These results

show that T3 has less thin places value as compared to that of T1 and T2

.These findings are in relation with the conclusions of Simpson and Fiori

(1975) who confirmed that when the twist was low, the thin places of the

yarn after leaving the front roller nip might get themselves slightly extended

because of spinning tension. When the twist was high, it flowed to the nip of

the front roller at a quicker rate and the tendency for the thin places to get

extended would be less.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn thin places for different


difference among each other. The thin places values for different Ring

diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 7.38, 8.44 and 9.44 per kilometer respectively.

These results show that D3 has more thin places value as compared to that of

D1 andD2 .These conclusions are in contact with the observations of Anjum

(1999) who recorded significant effect of ring diameter on thin places

similarly Hussain (2008) also found a slight change of thick places with

change in ring diameter.

69

Table: 9. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Thin places


Table: 9(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn Thin places (per kilometer)


significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 1589.80 1589.80 85849.0 0.0000** S 2 38.04 19.02 1027.00 0.0000** T 2 0.59 0.30 16.00 0.0016* D 2 96.93 48.46 2617.00 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.04 0.02 1.00 N.S Y×T 2 0.0338 0.026 1.3 N.S Y×D 2 0.0392 0.028 1.4 N.S S×T 4 0.07 0.02 1.00 N.S S×D 4 0.07 0.02 1.00 N.S T×D 4 0.0288 0.024 1.2 N.S


System Means Spindle Speed


Means

Y1 3.000 b S1

6.833 c

T1 8.5000 a D1 7.3889 c

Y2

13.852 a

S2 8.333 b T2 8.5000 a D2

8.4444

b

S3

10.111 a

T3 8.2778

b D3

9.4444 a

70

4.3.10 Neps/Km

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn neps for different spinning



neps while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn neps for different


difference among each other. The neps values for different spinning system

Y1 and Y2 are 33.00 and 41.81 per kilometer respectively. These results

show that siro spun yarn has less neps value as compared to that of ring spun

yarn .These findings are in line with the observations of Cheng and Yuen

(1997)who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than single

yarns in respect of evenness and imperfections similarly Sun and Cheng

(2000) concluded that Siro spun yarns were more extensible than single

yarns. . Coarser Siro spun yarns were comparable to two-plied yarns in

evenness and imperfections, but finer Siro spun yarn was less uniform and

had more imperfections.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn neps for different spindle

speeds is given in Table 10a.All the values have highly significant difference

among each other. The yarn neps values for different spindle speeds S1, S2

and S3 are 36.41, 37.16 and 38.61 per kilometer respectively. These results

show that S3 has more yarn neps value as compared to that of S1 andS2

.These conclusions are in contact with the observations of Kumar (2007)

who concluded that the imperfections of yarn were changed with change in

spindle speed, it gave a increasing behavior with different values of

increasing spindle speeds.. Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that with gradual

increase beyond 14 000 rpm of spindle speed, the imperfections of the yarn

was gradually increased.

71

The individual comparison of mean values of neps for different twist

multipliers is given in Table 10a.All the values have highly significant

difference among each other. The neps value for twist multipliers T1, T2 and

T3 are 37.77, 37.33 and 37.11 per kilometer respectively. These results show

that T3 has less neps value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These results are

in relation with the conclusions of Simpson and Fiori (1975) who confirmed

that when the twist was low, the neps of the yarn after leaving the front roller

nip might get themselves slightly extended because of spinning tension.

When the twist was high, it flowed to the nip of the front roller at a quicker

rate and the tendency for the neps to get extended would be less.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn neps for different


difference among each other. The neps values for different Ring diameters

D1, D2 and D3 are 36.38, 37.44 and 38.38 per kilometer respectively. These

results show that D3 has more neps value as compared to that of D1 andD2

.These findings are in line with the observations of of Anjum (1999) who

recorded significant effect of ring diameter on neps similarly Hussain (2008)

also found a significant effect on neps with change in ring diameter.

72

Table: 10. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Neps


Table: 10(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Yarn Neps(per kilometer)


significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 1048.96 1048.96 32368.0 0.0000** S 2 36.04 18.02 556.00 0.0000** T 2 4.15 2.07 64.00 0.0000** D 2 43.81 21.91 676.00 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.04 0.02 0.57 N.S Y×T 2 0.1323 0.063 2.1 N.S Y×D 2 .0507 0.039 1.3 N.S S×T 4 0.19 0.05 1.43 N.S S×D 4 0.19 0.05 1.43 N.S T×D 4 0.0588 0.042 1.4 N.S


Spinning System

Means Spindle Speed


Means

Y1

33.000

b

S1

36.444

c

T1 37.778

a D1

36.389 c

Y2 41.815

a

S2 37.167

b T2

37.333 b

D2 37.444

b

S3 38.611

a

T3 37.111

c D3

38.389

a

73

4.3.11 Yarn Hairiness

The statistical analysis of data regarding yarn hairiness for different spinning



hairiness while all the possible interactions have non significant effect.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn hairiness for different


difference among each other. The hairiness value for different spinning

system Y1 and Y2 are 4.98 and 5.75 respectively. These results show that siro

spun yarn has less hairiness value as compared to that of ring spun yarn

.These conclusions are in line with the observations of Cheng and Yuen

(1997) who concluded that the siro yarns depicted better results than ring

yarns in respect of hairiness.

The individual comparison of mean values of yarn hairiness for


significant difference among each other. The yarn hairiness values for

different spindle speeds S1, S2 and S3 are 5.25, 5.36 and 5.48 respectively.

These results show that S3 has more yarn hairiness value as compared to that

of S1 andS2 .These results are in contact with the findings of Kumar (2007)

who observed that increased spindle speeds, showed an increasing trend in

the value of yarn hairiness. Similarly Chaudhuri, (2003) showed that as

spindle speed was increased there was considerable change in yarn hairiness

was recorded. With increase of spindle speed the yarn hairness also

increased this was due to more centrifugal forces applied on yarn.



significant difference among each other. The hairiness value for twist

multipliers T1, T2 and T3 are 5.49, 5.35 and 5.25 respectively. These results

74

show that T3 has less hairiness value as compared to that of T1 and T2 .These

findings are in relation with the conclusions of Ozguney et al. (2008) who

stated that as the twist multipliers of the yarns increased, hairiness values

decreased, similarly according to the Kretzschmar et al. (2007) who

observed that as the twist multiple of the yarn increased, hairiness values

decreased.



significant difference among each other. The hairiness value for different

Ring diameters D1, D2 and D3 are 5.24, 5.36 and 5.49 per kilometer

respectively. These results show that D3 has more hairiness value as

compared to that of D1 andD2 .These conclusions are in contact with the

observations of Anjum (1999) who recorded significant effect of ring

diameter on hairiness of yarn similarly Hussain (2008) also found a

significant effect on hairiness with change in ring diameter.

75

Table: 11. Analysis of Variance for Yarn Hairiness

** Highly Significant NS = Non-significant

Table: 11(a) Comparison of individual treatment means for Hairiness


significance.

Source DF SS MS F P Y 1 0.47188 0.23594 229.25 0.0000** S 2 0.53311 0.26656 259.00 0.0000** T 2 0.55018 0.27509 267.29 0.0000** D 2 7.98107 7.98107 7754.88 0.0000** Y×S 2 0.01001 0.00250 2.43 N.S Y×T 2 0.01381 0.00345 3.35 N.S Y×D 2 0.00058 0.00029 0.28 N.S S×T 4 0.005932 0.002472 2.4 N.S S×D 4 0.02421 0.01211 11.76 N.S T×D 4 0.01054 0.00527 5.12 N.S Y×S×T 4 0.00164 0.00041 0.40 N.S Y×S×D 4 0.00178 0.00044 0.43 N.S Y×T×D 4 0.01894 0.00237 2.30 N.S S×T×D 8 0.01264 0.00316 3.07 N.S Y×S×T×D 8 0.001483 0.001236 1.2 N.S Error 8 0.00823 0.00103 Total 61 9.64604

Spinning System

Means Spindle Speed


Means

Y1

4.9848

b

S1 5.2567

c T1

5.4972 a

D1

5.2467

c

Y2 5.7537

a S2

5.3656 b

T2 5.3556

b D2

5.3672 b

S3 5.4856

a T3

5.2550 c

D3

5.4939

a

76

Chapter No. 5

SUMMARY The present research work regarding the “Comparative study of

organic cotton yarn quality at Siro and Ring spinning systems under different

variables.” was initiated in the Department of Fibre and Textile Technology,

University of Agriculture, Faisalabad and conducted at Gulistan Textile

mills,multan road Lahore. during the year 2011. Standard techniques were

applied for technological evaluation of the results. The results relating to

cotton fibre and yarn characteristics along with their statistical manipulation

are briefly summarized here under.

5.1 FIBRE CHARACTERISTICS

The organic cotton used in this research was tested for different yarn quality

characteristics. The range of value for fibre span length was found as 27.48

to 27.73 mm with a mean value of 27.46 mm. The value of fibre strength

was estimated as 27.92 to 28.81 gram per text having a mean value as 27.92

gram per tex. The range of fibre fineness was recorded as 3.90 to 4.40

microgram per inch with mean value of 4.23 microgram/inch. Similarly the

range of short fibre content was found as 11.21 to 12.57 with mean value

11.9. The range of values for trash content percentage was recorded as 5.2 to

5.7 percent with mean value of 5.44 percent.

5.2 Yarn Evaluation:

The spinning performance of organic cotton yarn of count 20 s at Siro

spinning systems(Y1) and conventional ring spinning system(Y2)under

different variables like Spindle speed (S) with settings, S1=8000 rpm,

S2=10000 rpm, S3 =12000 rpm ,Twist multiplier (T) with settings T1=3.75,

T2=4.00 and T3=4.25, Ring diameter (D) with settings D1=35 mm, D2=38

mm and D3=40 mm was Studied.

77

The data regarding count values showed non significant effect for all

four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, , Ring

diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning were

ranged from 20.114 to 20.106.The values of count for different values of

spindle speeds were ranged from 20.11 to 20.13 and values recorded by

different twists ranged from 20.113 , to 20.119 and for ring dia results were

from 20.119 to 20.09.

The data regarding lea strength values showed significant effect for all

four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, , Ring

diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning were

ranged from 120.48lbs to 117.63lbs.The values of lea strength for different

values of spindle speeds were ranged from 121.62 lbs to 116.58lbs and

values recorded by different twists ranged from 116.75 lbs, to 121.41 lbs

and for ring dia results were from 114.52 lbs to 118.87 lbs.

The data regarding yarn count lea strength product values showed

significant effect for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system, Spindle speed,

Twist multiplier, Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro

and ring spinning ranged from 2437.6 hanks to 2320.7 hanks. The values of

yarn count lea strength product for different values of spindle speeds were

ranged from 2396.9 hanks to 2362.2 hanks and values recorded by different

twists ranged from 2353.7 hanks to 2403.1 hanks and for ring dia results

were from 2340.7 hanks to 2389.7 hanks

The data regarding yarn single end strength values showed significant

effect for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist

multiplier, , Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and

ring spinning ranged from 444.63 grams to 455.41 grams.The values of yarn

single end strength for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from

459.72 grams to 440.67 grams and values recorded by different twists

78

ranged from 441.33 grams, to 458.90. and for ring dia results were from

432.89 grams to 467.83 grams.

The data regarding yarn rupture per kilometer values showed

significant effect for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed

,Twist multiplier, , Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro

and ring spinning ranged from 15.43 to 15 grams/tex..The values of yarn

rupture per kilometer for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from

15.46 grams/tex to 14.97 grams/tex and values recorded by different twists

ranged from 14.85 grams/tex, to 15.47 grams/tex. and for ring dia results

were from 14.92 to 15.46 gram/tex

The data regarding yarn elongation values showed significant effect

for all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier,

, Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning

ranged from 6%to 5.9%. ..The values of yarn elongation for different values

of spindle speeds were ranged from 6.08 percent to 5.89 percent and values

recorded by different twists ranged from 5.8 percent, to 6.08 percent and for

ring dia results were from 5.87 percent to 6.08 percent

The data regarding yarn evenness values showed significant effect for

all four parameters.i.e Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, ,

Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning

ranged from 9.78 Percent to 9.04 percent..The values of yarn evenness for

different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 9.30 percent to, 9.50

percent and values recorded by different twists ranged from 9.63%, to 9.22%

and for ring dia results were from 9.54 percent to 9.30 percent

The data regarding yarn thick places values showed significant effect



system ranged from 28 per kilometer to 37 per kilometer.The values of yarn

79

thick places for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 31 per

kilometer to 34 per kilometer and values recorded by different twists ranged

from 33 per kilometer to 32 per kilometer and for ring dia results were from

31 per kilometer to 33 per kilometer.

The data regarding yarn thin places values showed significant effect



ranged from 3.00 per kilometer to 13 per kilometer. .The values of yarn thin

places for different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 6.83 per

kilometer to 10.11 per kilometer and values recorded by different twists

ranged from 8.5 per kilometer to 8.2 per kilometer and for ring dia results

were from 7.3 per kilometer to 9.4 per kilometer

The data regarding yarn neps values showed significant effect for all

four parameters i.e. Spinning system ,Spindle speed ,Twist multiplier, , Ring

diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning ranged

from 33 per kilometer to 41.81per kilometer. .The values of yarn neps for

different values of spindle speeds were ranged from 36.44 per kilometer to

37.11 per kilometer and values recorded by different twists ranged from 37.7

per kilometer to 37.11 per kilometer and for ring dia results were from

36.389 per kilometer to 38.389 per kilometer

The data regarding yarn hairiness values showed significant effect for

all four parameters i.e. spinning system, Spindle speed, Twist multiplier,

Ring diameter, and results recorded by the values of siro and ring spinning

ranged from 4.98 to 5.75. .The values of yarn hairiness for different values

of spindle speeds were ranged from 5.25 to 5.48 and values recorded by

different twists ranged from 5.49 to 5.25 and for ring dia results were from

5.24to 5.49

80

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study revealed that

� Siro spinning system is a better system for spinning , it gave best

results for yarn properties than the conventional ring spinning

system, especially in tensile properties and also it gave better

hairiness than conventional ring spinning.

� Different spindle speeds, ring dia, twist multiplier and spinning

systems exert a significant impact upon most of the yarn parameters.

� Tensile properties like (Lea strength, CLSP, Elongation, SES,

Rupture per kilometer) decreased with increase of spindle speed and

imperfections (thick, thin, neps) increased with increase of spindle

speeds.

� Tensile properties like (Lea strength, CLSP, Elongation, SES,

Rupture per kilometer) increased with increase of twist multiplier

and decreased with increase of ring dia while imperfections (thick,

thins, neps) decreased with increase of twist and ring dia.

81

Chapter No. 6

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