Ordeal on Mt Mera by Jayant Doshi

(from 7th November till 25th November 2013.)

I arrived at my hotel in Kathmandu on the evening of 8th November after a long delayed flight on what was to prove to be the most eventful, difficult and adventurous trek. When I first planned my trek in 2004, after I started getting my state pension, I had guessed that it would be my first and last such adventure, but I never imagined that in the next ten years I will be doing my ninth trek this year. The trek organised by Charity through Adventure to Mt Mera in Nepal attracted me and I joined Satish Shah, Naresh C and Naresh S on possibly my very last such trek before I complete my three quarter century in the journey of my life. Eight trekkers were doing Gokyo Ri, Kala Patthar and Everest Base camp while we four were doing Mt Mera, the highest mountain (6461 metres or 21190ft) that can be walked to the top without any technical skills or equipment. We sorted out our paper work, collected our

sleeping bags and down jackets, prepared ourselves by packing all what we might need and keeping the extra stuff in the hotel, went for a late dinner where we met rest of the group, and went to sleep.

Saturday 9 th November : After an uneasy night, following a long flight from London and body still to adjust to the time difference, I woke up at 5.00 to get ready to fly to Lukla. The short flight to Lukla in the midst of mountains is a thrill and we were lucky this time to get the flight immediately. Two of our bags were left behind because of overweight – mine came in the next flight

but the other one did not - causing some tension. We had some photos with the rest of the group, had our lunch and then we started our trek. Perhaps this was a mistake as we had hardly recovered from jet lag, had hardly slept and had no chance to acclimatise to the altitude and had little opportunity to flex our leg muscles before starting such an arduous trek. For the very first day, it was a long hard and uphill steep walk. I must have walked for almost 5 hours or more, and we had climbed 600 metres up the mountain. This very steep walk on the very first day must have affected my thigh and calf muscles, and I guess that affected my walking for the rest of the trekking.

In my past treks, I normally was fast enough to lead the group but this time I found that right from the beginning I was held back by my breathing problem. I lagged behind all the way, my thighs started hurting and refused to move at times and at one point I had severe cramps on both my legs and I could not move. I had massage and did some stretching before I could walk. I struggled walking and kept stopping every now and then and took four and half hours to reach

the tea house. We climbed 600 metres on the very first day which was not a wise decision. (timings given in this report refer to my walking as others were always much faster than me.) Compared to Everest trek there were very few trekkers on this route.

In all the treks I have done in the past, the first few days are easy walking and for short periods and perhaps a day off to get used to the altitude and avoid any repercussions. On other treks we had half or one hour of difficult walking in a day, while on this trek we had possibly half hour or one hour of

easy walking and rest was difficult walking. On this trek I guess it was perhaps a mistake to rush straight into difficult walking without letting the bodies adjust. Not allowing the bodies to recuperate from a long flight and the time difference, and now allowing bodies to adjust to the altitude took some toll and affected us all in one way or the other. The region had heavy snowfall before our arrival and as such we saw lot of snow. We crossed and walked on a lot of snow and ice. We faced severe cold most of the way. However the skies were clear blue and the sun blazing on most of the days and it felt hot and wonderful in the sun though as soon as we were in the shade it felt very cold. Each one of us developed bad sore throat and cold soon after we started the trek.

After dinner we had no choice but to get into our warm sleeping bags. There was no heating in the tea house and at night temperatures plummeted and our only choice was to get into the sleeping bags in the clothes we were wearing all day. I could not sleep for long – partly because of my body was still on London time and possibly my body had not adjusted to the altitude. Later in the night, during my sleep, I got severe cramps in both legs and I was in severe pain and could not move or bear the atrocious pain. After some struggle the cramps subsided but kept coming again and again a

few times but less severe and ultimately I got over them. I started taking more salt from next day which I was told is best to reduce cramps.

Sunday 10 th November : I must have fallen asleep in the early morning as I was woken up when it was 8.00. Naresh S who was sharing the room with me declared that he had a bad night with no sleep, and that he had temperature since he left London and that he was considering quitting and going back. He was convinced to continue for another day. Naresh C complained of nausea and bad sleep and that he was considering dropping out also. He was advised to carry on for a day or two before taking that drastic decision. We started at 9.40 and walked for over three hours and today also it was a steep uphill walk and we must have climbed another 600 metres.

After late lunch we went for a short acclimatisation walk. We climbed a slope going up at least 250 metres high which had rocks, hard snow and slippery ice. On the return I had to get on my fours to overcome some very slippery sections. It was a hard but refreshing three hour walk. I was in bed early as usual but felt as if I did not sleep. Others were also complaining of the same and I guess this was the effect of altitude and we having rushed up without letting our bodies getting used to the same. Both Naresh C and Naresh S were complaining of lack of sleep, lack of appetite and possibility of quitting.

Monday 11 th November : Next day I was lying awake in bed but did not come out till 8.00, got ready and left by 9.00. Today was also very difficult steep climb going up 400 metres with the paths covered in snow, slippery ice and stones and rocks. It was difficult and treacherous walk. I lost my balance quite a few times though managed to recover balance in time most of the times but I slipped several times and fell on the ground at least three times.

My three colleagues were much faster than me. I reached the top at around 12.30 but there was no respite as there was another cliff with a steep slope to climb which took another two hours. There was no pain in leg muscles but there was no strength left in them. Thighs kept resisting and I kept stopping to recover. The body seemed to have run out of steam. When I reached the tea house at 4.45 others already had rested for at least two hours – that was the difference in walking speeds. We had reached 4600 metres before coming down about 200 metres. After the long flight from London, it was bit too much for the body to climb 1800 metres over a three day period without any respite or opportunity to acclimatise.

From the very beginning of this trek the mountains were covered with snow and ice. While no snow fell during our trek, the covering on the mountains was intact because of very cold weather. We had to cross and walk on icy patches all the time, and on snow covered grounds for long times also. In our tea houses we had to go to the toilets where the path to the toilets used to be covered in ice which was slippery and dangerous. All mountain streams were

frozen solid – and during daytime the ice would melt from under those frozen streams and one could hear the musical sound of invisible water flowing. Snow on the grounds was frozen solid and would crumble when one walked on it. The water drops on the snow would shine when sunshine came on them, and shone like diamonds.

Tuesday 12 th November : It was a long day for me on the fourth day. I started at 8.45 in the morning and took a lunch stop at 12.45, and then left at 1.30 and reached the tea house for the night at 6.30 in the evening. It was a very tricky and treacherous walk going up and coming down several times. I would guess that we went up and down totally almost 1000 metres. It was a tiring day putting full strain on my thighs and calf muscles. I kept losing balance on the tricky terrain, fell at least two times and lost balance several times. With rocks, snow, ice and other obstacles

on the way it was natural that it was a difficult walk and led to loss of balance at times when the foot was put in the wrong place or on the wrong rock. Later we came down from 4600 metres to 3800 metres passing valleys, trees, rivers and the natural beauty of the mountains. While I had no pains or aches in my legs or the body, I was totally void of any strength in my legs and I had to prop up my strength by taking some pain

killers. I walked the last hour in total pitch dark with the help of the torch which was really not suitable or adequate for the purpose. I kept losing balance much more in the dark and was saved by the porter several times. We had walked down to a height of 4300 metres to the tea house.

Wednesday 13 th November : Today Naresh S gave his decision that he had finally decided to go back as his body could not take it anymore. He had fever ever since leaving London, and after thinking about quitting from day one, but being persuaded to carry on, he finally made the decision to go back. I left at 9.10 while others stayed behind to make arrangements for Naresh S to go back to Kathmandu. Naresh C had by this time got better and could eat and felt good enough to carry on the trek. Compared to others I was slow at walking in these conditions. Whilst others thought it was my age, I could not agree with that entirely. I did two treks last year and then I was keeping up with others pretty well. So what has changed? My breathing problem when going up, and specially at a high altitude, is of course a major factor. But also on this trek no time was allowed for acclimatisation, or a chance to let the body muscles get used to the level of difficulty involved in walking. Right from day one, the legs and the muscles of the thighs and calf muscles were under lot of hammering. And each day

walking was more difficult than day before. On other treks normally first few days are easy walking for much shorter period and then we always got a day off to acclimatise. On this trek it was “GO” from the time we landed in Lukla. In three days we climbed 1800 metres which hammered our thigh and calf muscles beyond belief. On my other treks there was always a mixture of good and fair trekkers while on this

trek I had two of the best and fittest trekkers – and I think it was no wonder I was far behind all the time.

Today it was mostly walking in the valleys laden with rocks – though walking amidst rocks is tricky and arduous. We passed several falling rock zones, and witnessed rocks falling also. Some trails were obliterated by fallen rocks and we had to clamour over those rocks and find our trail. All these days we had very clear blue skies. While walking on flat ground should have been easy I was still struggling and found it hard going. My breathing was getting worse and affecting my ability to walk at my normal speed. Was it age or the constant uphill walking of previous 4 days that had affected my ability to keep pace? Suddenly I felt that my body had aged and affected my ability to walk – though when I landed at London airport and found that I was as fast as before in walking it just reassured me – that I was still good at walking fast.

Compared to Everest Base camp trek, the quality and standard of tea houses on this route was poor with one or so exception. Many had dormitories, some had roof but no ceiling, some doors would only close from outside while others only from inside. Heating in dining rooms was charged. Lights were literally non-existent. Dining rooms on EBC route used to be huge with wonderful paintings and decorations on furniture but on this trek the dining rooms were small and drab. Choice of food on the menu was not as extensive but still there was good choice. However, because of altitude, and because food was bland I could not eat much. I must have missed many lunches and several dinners and I lost lot of weight

during this trek as much as any other trek.

After several days when I did not or could not eat much, I had good lunch today. As it was very cold I decided to get into my warm sleeping bag and spend the afternoon in bed. Later in the dining hall we met a Sherpa who walked from Kathmandu, climbed Mt Everest, and walked back to Kathmandu - and all that in 10 days. We were told this is a world record. We had photos taken with him.

Thursday 14 th November : Today was a day of rest and for acclimatising which in my

opinion was left too late for this sort of trek. In the morning we went for a walk and I went up about 200 metres high to a beautiful lake while the other two went even further up. Even this short walk was tricky with stones and rocks, hardened snow and ice. Coming down I had to be very careful and at times I had to get on my bums to tackle tricky, slippery slope. These conditions made walking much harder and

affected the leg muscles lot more than can be attributed to just walking. After lunch I spent a few hours in the sleeping bag to keep myself warm and tried to sleep. From 4.00 till 8.00 we three had long discussions. This was the first and possibly the only opportunity we got to sit, relax and talk for so long. This was one of these tea houses which had lights and also fire which made it cosy to sit and relax. I hardly slept that night and had bad cough whole night.

Friday 15 th November : While lying awake in my sleeping bag, I got up when I was woken up by the guide. I got ready and started walking at 7.25 while others started later at leisure. Their walking speed was such that they would catch me in no time. Today also the walk was tricky with rocks and snow and ice but in addition there were very narrow ledges to tackle with steep slope on one side. With big feet and boots I had to be extra careful that I walked slowly and extra carefully. A loss of balance could be dangerous or even fatal as one would fall down into the valley. Today we had to go up

the ascent and come down several times. While the total walk for the day was over 7 hours, I was shattered when I had walked for 5 hours. Last 2 hours I had literally to push myself, and my speed got slower and slower. Besides leg muscles refusing to move, my cough got bad and hindered my walking.

Satish and Naresh both advised me to drop out as cough was a symptom of the altitude sickness. I informed them that I will hire my own guide who could walk with me and carry my rucksack, and that I will turn back as soon as I feel I cannot carry on. I also told them that I will decide in the morning based on how I feel, and I will continue the trek if I feel confident. Later we went to hire crampons, rubber boots and harness for our trek to the base camp, and perhaps to the summit.

Saturday 16 th November : We were now reaching the final stage of our trek. From here on the terrain was totally covered with snow and ice. Snow, which had fallen before our arrival, had frozen and become hard. Walking on snow and ice with normal trekking shoes could mean slipping if not careful. However,

walking with rubber boots and crampons made it slightly easier as we could get a better grip. But most of the walk was up steep slope with narrow ledges which made it more difficult, especially with my big size boots. While others started late and made it in 4 hours, I was struggling after 4 hours, I was exhausted and my legs were refusing to move. I kept stopping, sitting and struggling to breathe. Later we got flat ground or slight decline, and it made it easier to walk though

I took 7 hours to cover the distance and reach the Base Camp.(5300 metres or 17384 ft) I did not have lunch nor did I eat much at dinner time. Here we were staying in tents. Also I did not sleep too well but in the morning I felt fine. While I kept struggling because of breathing problem, physically I found that I could cope and recover soon after a long arduous day.

Sunday 17 th November : Whilst I was struggling walking at reasonable pace, I had no pains and aches in the body. While walking my legs resisted begging me to stop but after a good night’s sleep I was fresh enough to carry on. I had decided that I will go up to the high base camp. But Satish and Naresh talked with me and put some arguments which made sense. While I might reach High Base camp I would struggle to get back to the tea house and then I had to think of walking all the way down to Lukla. I agreed to turn back. Satish and Naresh went to High Base Camp (5780 metres or 18958 ft) and Naresh decided then not to attempt the summit. Satish did attempt the summit (6461 metres or 21907 ft), made it almost to the top but turned back a few hundred metres before the summit as the cold was affecting his fingers. I walked down to the tea house but that also took 5 hours and I was struggling all the way. By the time I was in the tea house I was so tired that I could not even

walk to the toilet. I had no regrets about turning back – I guess it was time to call it a day for my decade of trekking.

Monday 18 th November : The temporary guide was up to this point only. I packed all my essential items in my bag and left the rest for other porters to bring. I left on my return journey at 8.10 in the morning with Mani, the porter who was to accompany me up to Lukla, carry my bag as well as my ruck sack. Going down is easy on my breathing but it is difficult on the knees and the fear of slipping and falling is always on the mind. Whether it is dried snow, or solid ice, or

pebbles or scree, the possibility and fear of slipping or losing balance is always present. Today’s walk was along the valley but it had snow, ice, rocks, narrow ledges to make it difficult walking. In spite of good sleep at night I felt tired as if ten days of walking was taking its toll now. As there was less breathing problem going down I needed to stop less often. We reached tea house at 1.15, had lunch and rested myself for a while and I felt fresh. A tired body tends to trip and stumble and lose balance much more – but a tired and aged body will be even more vulnerable. I controlled myself from slipping and falling several times but still fell on my buttocks two or three times.

After lunch and rest we left at 2.30. I felt fresh and rejuvenated. We were still in the valley and I kept walking at steady pace. Mani had gone ahead of me. Suddenly I found that the trail had been covered by rocks. Looking ahead I could see 3 different trails going in different directions and I panicked. I shouted “Mani” several times but there was no response. If I take the wrong trail and get lost then what? I was angry on Mani. After some thinking I decided to go along straight path along the valley. After a while I saw Mani and felt relieved. I vented my anger on Mani for going so far ahead.

By 5.00 it got dark, and by 5.30 it was pitch dark. Mani had no torch. Luckily I had my head light which was not much good but I also had a hand torch which I gave to Mani. He kept throwing the light in front of me and we kept walking in the total darkness in the valley. A tumble or a kick against a rock could be dangerous. I had to walk very slowly to make sure I do not hit a rock or fall. If either of us was to get injured by a fall or by hitting a rock it could be dangerous. Who will help whom? The torch went off after a while. I had spare batteries but we had to dig through the bag to find them. Then, after some time, we saw a flicker of light in the distance and Mani told me that we were near our tea house now. But we kept walking and all the time lights seemed to be getting closer. It took almost an hour before we reached our tea house when it was 8.00. For that hour I walked in anxiety and in hope but all the time aware of the dark and the valley and my legs which were not going to last for too long. I had been walking for almost 12 hours with lunch break. I told Mani that walking in dark was dangerous and should not happen again.

Tuesday 19 th November : I had most amazing 9 hour non-stop sleep and felt totally refreshed and rejuvenated. It was my best sleep since coming on this trek. We started at 8.15. Today it was mostly going uphill with some really steep slopes. The final steep climb took two hours and was exhausting. But Mani gave me the news that we will not be walking after lunch. I was happy and made some plans in the mind. I will wipe my body and change clothes, sit in the sun admiring the mountains and the valleys and read and later sit in the dining hall in front of the fire and read. When

we reached the tea house my dreams were shattered. While the tea house was on the slope of the valley overlooking the valley and the river and waterfalls, it was in the shade. I put on all cold weather clothes and braved to sit outside to read but I was freezing in a few minutes and had to come inside. The dining room was tiny with no fire. There were no lights. Bedroom was a room with several mats and a door that did not close. The ceiling )plastic sheet) touched my head and in the dining hall the beam hit

my head. I had no choice. At 4.00 I got into the sleeping bag and lay there till dinner. After dinner I went to sleep.

Wednesday 20 th November : I woke up, got ready and started walking at 8.15. Mani told me that at first it was all uphill before we descend to the tea house. It was long exhausting walk whole day going up the mountain which never seemed to come to an end. By the time I saw what appeared as the final peak, I could see another peak followed by another and I kept walking till evening to reach the top. I struggled and kept stopping every few minutes. Ultimately we reached the top and Mani told me that now it was going down all the way to the tea house. But it was already evening. Mani was too young and inexperienced to think or decide and he was following instructions from the chief guide. I should have thought and discussed this with him but never came round to that. From Monday’s experience I should have known that it will be dark soon after 5.00. If I had just bothered to find out how far the tea house was then I could have avoided the ordeal that was to follow. Just before reaching

the peak, there was a tea house where we could have stayed. But the thought did not occur then.

When I reached the top I saw a valley with a down slope filled with snow, ice and rocks. I knew straight away that going down that slope in these conditions was not going to be easy. Mani was carrying two bags and a light in his hand. My head light was just about enough to show me my step. We started walking in the dark. First step I took and I slipped. I took another step on what looked like dried soil and I slipped. I realised that with cold temperatures at night ice becomes

hardened and more slippery and that there will be more black ice also. If I slipped on this slope I could end up anywhere and could get any sort of injury. Mani tried to put his body weight against mine to stop me from slipping. I suggested that it would be better if I sit down on the ground and then slide slowly and he welcomed the suggestion. I got on the floor and used my hands to push my body and used my feet to stop myself sliding too fast. This way, while I was safe from slipping and falling, I strained my arms and legs and my buttocks took the brunt of sliding on ice. But even then Mani, with two bags, torch in one hand with my walking sticks, tried hard to make sure I would slide but within control. In the process one bag flew from

his hand and soon after one stick went down the slope. The bag was not far which he got back and I told him to forget the stick.

Mani suggested that he would go and drop the bags down the slope, come back and help me come down. He carried on doing this several times. It was exhausting as he has to run down the slope with the bags, then come up same slope and help me. He would use his frail body with a small frame to make sure that I slid slowly in the right direction – that I did not go fast or sideways. After doing that for a while I assumed that now the tea house would not be far and told him to drop the bags to the tea house and get some help. He agreed and asked me to slowly slide down and he left. I do not know what happened

exactly after this but either my mind went blank or I faced a black out for a few seconds. I must have tried to slide and I am sure I did not slide much but the next thing I knew was that my shoulder was against a rock and hurting and my left cheek had hit the rock bruising my cheek. I was in pain but I decided not to move again from where I was.

I sat there on ice in the pitch dark except little light from my head lights. Mind is fickle and in such circumstances my mind at least starts imagining all sorts of scenario. What if Mani does not come back? What if he cannot find me? Will I survive this cold with a single down jacket? What if Mani falls or gets injured? What can I do? What if I fell and got injured? Would I survive till help comes? But surprisingly my mind was calm. I did not get any such thoughts. I must have waited for almost an hour before I saw a flicker of light at a distance and I assumed it was Mani. But the light showed and disappeared many times. It was another half an hour before I saw Mani. He had brought a more powerful light together with hot lemon tea. He could not find anyone to come and help. After having tea we started slowly moving towards the tea house. I was still sliding on ice. We kept moving down slowly.

At one stage when it looked as if snow and ice were finished he asked me to stand up and walk but we were wrong. There was black ice and I slipped again. Ultimately we reached the tea house. It was 10.30 – 5 hours of the ordeal walking, or more like sliding, in the dark and on snow and ice. My buttocks were on ice for all those five hours. I had not eaten lunch and I was in no mood to eat dinner so late at night. Tea house was one big room with kitchen in front, some dining space and then six mattresses. I unpacked and went to sleep. Others were chatting and eating their dinner and I was

lying in my sleeping bag unable to sleep – but at least my mind was at peace as I had reached safety.

Having sat and slid on ice for 5 hours I thought my trousers would be wet or even worn out but they were not. It felt as if everything was fine and my long time sitting and sliding on ice had not caused any damage. For next few days I was normal and I thought that I got away from that five hour ordeal with no harm done. But I was wrong. Whilst I did not feel any immediate impact, on return to London I faced physical problems which must be related to this ordeal. I am a hot blooded person and can bear cold. Even in winter I can do with one cardigan, but this time I could feel a chill in my body. Even with heating and proper clothing, I feel a chill passing through my body. Since coming back my cold and coughing have gone worst - as if the cold ice sipped through my bones and muscles. My feet are swollen – never seen them like this

ever before. My blood pressure has dropped and once it went so low that I could feel weakness in my body. My body strength seems to be lacking and I can feel joint pains and aches when I am walking. After even longer treks in the past, I would resume my sporting and other activities from the day I landed in London. But this time after almost a week I am struggling. I did play golf twice but I was not my normal self as I struggled even walking the course. My sleep pattern is affected and I need to sleep every afternoon as I keep waking up quite early in the morning.

Mani for his age (20 years) and with a small body frame was brave and responsible. He was chosen because he could understand little bit of English and Hindi. He used his body weight and strength to hold me and to stop me from sliding or falling. He ran up and down the slope to carry the bags and help me at the same time. He could have told me to walk. He could have just run away leaving me there. But he did not. He was brave and responsible and ensured that I was safe and sound. Five hours in the dark in a valley covered with snow and ice was an ordeal which I will remember forever - and I am not sure how long I will be suffering from the after effects of that ordeal.

Thursday 21 st November : It was the final day and we began our walk to Lukla. Previous night’s ordeal had taken its toll. Pushing my body with hands and feet and sliding on my back on ice had affected my body. My joints and muscles were hurting and my body seemed to lack any strength. Even though it was downhill I could not walk my normal way and kept stopping a lot. At lunch time I lay

down on the bench and tried to give rest to my body. By then Satish, Naresh and rest of the party caught up with us. I felt relaxed and fresh. Afternoon walk to Lukla seemed exhausting. It felt as if we were almost there and yet we kept walking and walking. It was evening by the time we reached Lukla. I crashed into bed. Later I packed my stuff, had shower and dinner and had good night’s sleep.

I have done nine treks in the last ten years. These included 19 days walking during Makalu Base Camp trek. But when I think about all those treks I did, I think this trek was much more difficult than any of the others I did. In most of the treks my walking was better than the average trekker. After long days walking I never needed to crash into bed or rest my body. And on none of those treks did I feel after effects after coming back home. All those treks had days with some difficult walking – but this time it was difficult walking most of the time and hardly any easy walking most

of the days. The impact of climbing 1800 metres in three days had lasting effects. The muscles were jammed before they got a chance to get used to long walking on the mountains. I was hoping very much that I would make to the high base camp, and attempt at least little bit of final summit. I could have done it only if my body had a chance to adjust and if more time was available.

But it was all for a good cause – to raise funds for 3R Education Trust which support One Teacher schools in remote parts of Nepal. With support from you all I managed to raise almost £3500.00 for which I am grateful. I did not fully succeed in my trekking but I did help to raise funds for a worthy cause. This may be the end of my trekking adventures in my retired life – but certainly not end to my efforts to help such worthy causes.

(reports on www.jayantdoshi.yolasite.com ....email comments to jayubhai@btinternet.com)

Photos can be viewed on https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=E019017921384D53!1122&authkey=!AKcjZYqI8hR0MPg&ithint=folder%2c.jpg