Online Quilt Magazine â€“ Vol. 3 No. 3 Online Quilt Magazine

Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 3 No. 3

© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 1

Online Quilt Magazine.com

Vol.3 No.3 – March 2012

BRAND NEW

Mystery BOM

Project- Part 1

This Month

How To Baste

Your Quilts

PROJECT

9-Patch Table

Mat

Our Best

Tips For

Attending

Quilt

Shows

Quilting For

Charity



Online Quilt Magazine Table of Contents

From Quilt Top To Finished Quilt – Part 1..………………………………………………………………………………………… Page 4

Quilting For Charity………………………………………………………..…………………………………………………………………. Page 12

PROJECT – Mystery BOM Quilt – Month 1…..……….……………………………………………………………………………. Page 16

Territory Treasures – Part 3…………………..……………………………………………………………………………………………

Layering and Basting Your Quilt..………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

PROJECT – 9-Patch Table Mat…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

What’s New From The Fat Quarter Shop .……………………………………………………………………………...............

Hints & Tips from Brannie ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

0

Page 24

Page 29

Page 33

Page 37

PROJECT – Squirrel in a Cage Quilt………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Tips For Attending Quilt Shows……………….………………………………………………………………………………………….

The Thai Road Less Travelled………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Page 39

Page 43

Page 45

PROJECT – Quilt Label of the Month…………………………………………..……………………………………………………… Page 49

BLOCK OF THE MONTH – Aunt Dinah Block……....................................................................................... Page 51

Today's Tips............................................................................................................................................. Page 54

YES – We Want To hear From You........................................................................................................... Page 56



Letter from the Editor

Jody Anderson

Hi!

Welcome to another jam-packed Online Quilt Magazine! We have a fantastic array of new articles for

you this month, and we’re thrilled to be able to introduce a Brand New Mystery Block of the Month

Project for you to start too. This project will go for the next 8 months, with a fun twist at the end, that

we guarantee you won’t expect! Give it a go, and we’re sure you’re going to love it.

Penny and Leah give us their insights on basting a quilt this month, and if you haven’t, do make sure

you check out Leah’s blog on The Free Motion Quilting Project (http://freemotionquilting.blogspot.com.au)

for some new quilting ideas to try.

Also, our Sister Club at www.BagMakingPatterns.com is having their “March Madness” Sale now too.

Check out their info on page 11, and for only 99 cents this month, we think it’s well worth it if (like me)

you’ve a bit of a thing for bags…

There’s plenty of other quick projects to make in this issue as well, and still many more to come after

this! (It’s all happening here!)

Have a great month! Jody



Are you amassing a collection of quilt tops, but

not completed quilts? Many quilters make

beautiful quilt tops, only to reach the quilting

process and feel overwhelmed and confused by

how to get the layers of the quilt together and

quilted.

In truth, this is a multi-step process that involves

more than just free motion quilting, but also

basting the three layers together in preparation

for quilting, and binding, which finishes all the

raw edges of the quilt.

This month let’s break down the first of these

simple steps and concentrate on basting our quilt

tops. Basting is a very important process because

it prepares the quilt for quilting and holds all the

layers temporarily in place.

If a mistake is made in the basting process, it’s

most definitely going to show up in the finished

quilt so it’s an important process to focus on

when quilting any quilt of any size.

Basting 101

The first step to quilting is to baste the quilt top.

This is the process of layering the backing fabric,

batting, and quilt top and securing this sandwich

together temporarily so the quilt can be quilted.

Please understand that there are many, many

ways of basting a quilt, and it’s a good idea to try

several techniques before settling on the

From Quilt Top To Finished Quilt – Part 1

By Leah Day from www.FreeMotionQuilt.blogspot.com



technique that works best for you. Here’s just

one method to pin baste your quilt tops:

1. Starch and press both your quilt backing

fabric and quilt top. This will lock the

fibers and stiffen the top and back so the

fabrics have less stretch and tendency to

pull out of shape.

2. Spread the backing fabric right side

DOWN over a flat surface. This can be a

hard floor, but in truth a large tabletop is

best.

Note: if you don’t have access to tables as

big as your quilt top, consider checking

with your local quilt guild or quilt shop.

Most will allow you to bring your tops into

the shop and baste for an hour for a

nominal fee. Another place to check with

is your local longarm quilter.

A longarmer can easily baste your quilt

using water soluble thread which you can

quilt right over and wash out when the

quilt is complete.

Your backing fabric should be cut at least

6-8 inches bigger than your quilt top so

there’s more than enough fabric around

all the edges.

Secure the backing fabric and stretch it taunt. For

this process, most quilters use masking tape.



If you’re able to baste on a tabletop, here’s an

alternative securing method using elastic strips:

Cut at least 20 1 inch wide elastic strips about 1.5

yards long. Hook or tie these strips to the

underside of your table and pull them to the

table top.

Starting on the sides of the backing fabric, pin the

elastic to the edges of the fabric, stretching the

elastic a bit as you pin.



This will cause the elastic to pull the fabric tight

against the table top, ensuring a perfectly flat,

taunt backing fabric.

It might even be a good idea to mix the two

materials together. Use masking tape to secure

the corners and some edges of the quilt backing,

and elastic strips to secure sides and long areas

that can be pulled tighter

4. Once the backing fabric is secured on all

sides, spread your batting over this

surface. Your batting should be cut 4-6

inches bigger than your quilt top so again,

there’s more than enough space all

around the edges.

Take your time and smooth the batting

layer completely, working from the center

to the edges. Make sure the batting lays

completely flat and smooth on top of the

backing so no lumps are left in your quilt.

5. Now spread your quilt top right side up on

top of the batting.



Note: I’m using a flannel receiving blanket

as the batting in this quilt. Flannel can

make a great batting for very lightweight

quilts, but make sure to wash it at least

twice in HOT water to take all the shrink

out of this material first.

Because a quilt top is pieced from many

different pieces of fabric, blocks, sashing,

and borders, you might find some areas

want to bubble or ripple over the surface

of the quilt. Spread and smooth these

areas out as flat as you can with your

hands.

6. Now starting in the center of the quilt,

start pinning through all three layers,

making sure to catch the backing, batting,

and quilt top all within the pin.

Space your pins around every 4-6 inches

apart. This is around the size of your

hand. If you can place your hand on the

quilt and not hit a pin, you’re probably

spacing your pins too far apart.

Which pin should you use?

Many quilters have used bent safety pins because

the slight bend is easy to insert. The problem

with safety pins is they can be quite difficult to

open and close and can tear up the skin around

your fingertips. A good tool for closing safety

pins is a Kwik Klip.



A new tool for basting is called Pinmoors. These

are small silicone nuggets that anchor straight

pins. This way you can use regular straight pins

to baste your quilt which are longer and hold

more securely than safety pins.

To use Pinmoors simply insert a straight pin down

into all three layers of the quilt, then bring it back

up to the surface of the quilt. Now just stick the

sharp end of the pin into the end of the Pinmoor,

which locks the pin in place on the quilt surface.

The nice thing about Pinmoors is they’re much

easier to remove while quilting, especially for

quilters with arthritis or difficulty with fine finger

movements.

Once the entire quilt is basted with pins, remove

the tape or elastic strips from the edges of the

backing fabric and get ready to quilt your quilt!

Basting is definitely an important process and

necessary step to free motion quilting, so take

your time with each quilt top and make sure all

the layers are properly secured before moving on

to the quilting process.



Don’t miss out next month when we learn tips on

quilting our quilts in free motion on our home

machines!

Let’s go baste some quilts!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(You can find both the Kwik Klip and Pinmoors at

Leah’s Shop:

http://www.daystyledesigns.com/quiltshop.htm )

About the Author: Leah Day is the author of the Free

Motion Quilting Project, a blog project dedicated to

creating new free motion quilting designs each week and

sharing them all for FREE! Leah is also the author of From

Daisy to Paisley - 50 Beginner Free Motion Quilting Designs,

a spiral bound book featuring 50 designs from the project.

www.daystyledesigns.com



I am often asked by other quilters all about the

what, when, why, and how of making quilts for

charity. Some quilters are not sure of the

measurements, fabric requirements, finishing

requirements, where to give and so on. This

article addresses all these issues and lots more.

There are many, many charities around the globe,

who involve themselves in making, receiving and

distributing quilts and blankets to the needy

people of their communities. As a matter of

interest, I’ve just googled “Quilting for Charity”

and there were 66,000 results. Here on earth,

there is an essential human need for warmth,

comfort and a feeling that someone cares, and

this need is borderless, colourless, and creedless.

I like to define a quilter in the following manner:

One who is a member of a world-wide alliance of

caring people who have a passion for creating

with fabric and thread, and who practice

compassion, empathy and respect for their fellow

man at every opportunity.

This definition is reflected in the many hours

quilters everywhere spend creating quilts and

blankets for those who need them. If quilters are

not sewing tops, or piecing the three layers

together, they are donating fabric and other

materials and notions, or donating their time in

distributing quilts and identifying the need for

quilts in their own neighbourhoods.

Quilts and warm blankets are required all year

round, even in warmer climes. Not only do these

quilts offer warmth, these quilts often represent

Quilting For Charity

By Judie Bellingham from www.bellaonline.com/site/Quilting



“home” to the homeless, comfort to those in

distress or trauma, and a feeling of being cared

about by those in need.

Here are some hints and tips for making good

quality quilts for charity.

Firstly, these quilts must be your best effort. Just

because you don’t know the recipient, doesn’t

mean that they won’t recognize shoddy or

careless work. For the gift to be truly appreciated

by someone in need, it must be made with

compassion, empathy and respect. Good quality

fabrics, top and bottom say “you are as important

to me as my own children” and are essential to

take the hard use and wear and tear these quilts

are likely to receive i.e. washing machines,

clothes pegs etc.

There is no requirement for complicated or

complex patterns in charity quilts. The simplest

patterns, with uncomplicated shapes and easily

recognized pattern lines are usually the easiest

and quickest to create. Simple cutting will pave



the way for simple piecing, which in turn allows

for simple quilting.

It’s important to use a good sewing thread, and

keep the stitch slightly smaller than usual – it will

enable the seams to be a little more resilient to

hard wear.

The batting is just as important as the top and

bottom of the quilt. Consider purchasing good

quality cotton batting – this will wash and wear

very well. It also makes for easy machine

quilting, as the fabric tends to “stick” to the

batting with little pinning required. There are

battings on the market these days that have a

water based adhesive that is ironed together into

three layers – no pining or basting required. The

first time these quilts are washed, the adhesive is

automatically washed away.

Machine quilting is essential for these quilts to

remain intact and be of the utmost use to the

recipient. Simple straight line quilting is not only

quick and easy, but most likely to stay in one

piece for longer.

Binding should be doubled to give a durable

wearing edge.

Sizes

Because these quilts are given to either children

or adults, any quilt size is fine – up to a twin bed

size. The most popular is a twin size which is

equivalent to about 39” x 74”. For a child up to

about aged 10 a quilt 35” x 50” is a good size.

Please remember if the recipient is taking this

quilt to hospital, it’s best to have a slightly smaller

quilt. They do have a tendency to get caught in

tubes etc around the beds.

Lastly, where do you give these quilts? Firstly,

there are organizations in most communities that

can put you in touch with the charities that can

distribute to the areas of need. Organizations

such as Linus Project, Ugly Quilts (sleeping

bags/quilts for the homeless), or if you contact

welfare agencies such as Salvation Army or St



Vincent de Paul or Department of Health or

Family Services – these will all have contact

details for you. Quilt Groups will usually have a

contact member, or at least know who to

contact. If this fails, your church is likely to have

some details for you.

If you don’t wish to make a quilt perhaps you

could donate any of the following to quilters who

do make them. The sorts of things they need are

fabrics, threads and battings. If you have suitable

patterns you no longer need, perhaps you might

donate these.

I belong to my local Linus Project in Brisbane,

Australia and Sunshine Linus on the Sunshine

Coast, and I’m known as a “finisher”. I often

receive a parcel containing the quilt top already

made, the backing and the binding. I provide the

batting (I like the adhesive cotton batting) as this

is my donation to the cause. I usually can put

together a couple of quilts in a day. “Toppers”

are the quilters who only make tops. So there’s a

need for all sorts of finishers, some women bind

the quilt and put the label on. We all work

together for a common cause – to care.

About the author:

Judie Bellingham has been quilting since 1976 and has

taught in Queensland, Interstate and Internationally since

2000.

Judie is a past vice president of Queensland Quilters Inc and

is the current Editor of the Quilting site at Bellaonline. This

site has loads of information about quilting and offers many

free patterns for readers.

Judie is involved with several quilting and craft groups in

her home town of Brisbane, and is the President of

Sunshine Linus on the Sunshine Coast.

Website: www.bellaonline.com/site/Quilting



PROJECT - Mystery BOM Quilt – Month 1

From www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com

We’ve just designed a Very Special 8-Part Mystery Block of the Month Quilt exclusively for the Online

Quilt Magazine, and this month, we start with Block 1. To keep the surprise and the assembly fun for

the very end, you’ll be making a set of different blocks each month, and then in Month 8 we’ll give you

the full directions to put them all together.

As you know, we like to add a bit of a ‘twist’ to many of our quilts, and this one is no different.

Everything is not as it seems…..

Month 1 Block



Fabrics You Will Need:

2½ metres (3 yards) plain pink fabric

1½ metres ( 1¾ yards) green patterned fabric

1 metre ( 1¼ yards) purple patterned fabric

2 metres (2¼ yards) plain white fabric

1½ metres ( 1¾ yards) plain black fabric

You can of course, choose any fabrics you like for this quilt. The pink fabric is an accent fabric and the

purple can be a feature fabric if you wish. We used the pink for our border also, so bear this in mind

when cutting smaller pieces for the blocks and cut pieces down the length, rather than across the full

width, so you have sufficient length of fabric to make the borders without having to piece them.

Month 1:

To start, this month you will need to make 9 of these Month 1 blocks.



Cut:

From the plain white fabric cut 18 squares measuring 2 3/8 inch x 2 3/8 inch square, and cross cut

diagonally once so you have 36 triangles in total.

From the plain pink fabric also cut 18 squares measuring 2 3/8 inch x 2 3/8 inch square, and cross cut

diagonally once so you have 36 triangles in total.

From the green fabric cut 36 strips measuring 2 inches wide x 7½ inches long

From the purple fabric cut 9 squares measuring 7½ inches x 7½ inches.

Lay out each block as shown here.

You will be able to chain piece some of

these pieces if you wish too.



First, with right sides together, sew the

corner triangles together and press seams.

Next join the rows together.

Press the seams of the top and bottom

rows towards the centre, and press the

seams of the central row towards the

outsides.

Join the three rows together and press

block well.

Trim to 10½ inches square and put aside

until Month 8.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

*** Make sure you get the next Mystery

Block Instalment in Next Month’s

Online Quilt Magazine! ***

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

For more Original BOM quilt projects, go to:

www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com



This month we take a look at the third in a series

of five quilts designed for and housed in

Government House in Darwin, Australia.

The Government House Foundation

commissioned a series of five quilts and the

project was put into the capable hands of Jenny

Armour and her team of dedicated quilters.

Each quilt showcases a specific part of the

Northern Territory, a vast area with a diversity of

landscape and climate.

The first two quilts highlighted the dry central

regions around Alice Springs but this quilt takes

us on a journey north of “The Alice” into a region

of remote desert country that links the Red

Centre to the Kimberley in Western Australia.

Quilt Three - The Tanami…

Territory Treasures – Part 3

By Brenda Dean from www.QuiltersInternational.com



The dry landscape between Tennant Creek and

Katherine is an inhospitable environment and

home to its traditional Aboriginal owners, the

Arunta people.

The southern part has low ranges, the centre it

noticeably flatter, and as you near the Kimberley

the terrain changes again and becomes rocky and

hilly. Rainfall is sporadic and water quickly

evaporates in the hot sun.

The colours in this quilt are typical of the region,

with the red rocks standing out in stark contrast

to the dry grass and low shrubs.

The Tanami was the Territory’s final frontier and

was considered a wasteland until twentieth

century exploration discovered deposits of gold

and other valuable minerals.

Early settlers raised cattle in the vast open space,

but the unpredictable weather pattern of

Australia’s most northerly desert made life

somewhat of a gamble.

There are details in this quilt that bring us well

and truly into modern times. The road train with

multiple trailers carries the stock to the saleyards

or the docks in the north for transportation

overseas. How very different from the lifestyle of

the drovers and their herds depicted in quilt two

(The Central Desert).

The Overland Telegraph wire, the first successful

communication line linking the north and south

of the continent is an intruder across an

otherwise natural landscape.

In the bottom left corner the modern Ghan, the

new rail link between the centre and the Top End,

brings visitors, cocooned in air-conditioned

comfort, to explore the “Top End”. The name

“Ghan” is in memory of the Afghans whose camel

trains opened up the outback and carried

supplies to isolated settlements long before the

train travelled the route.



The winding gear from one of the many small

mines merges into the landscape yielding

valuable ore from deep under the surface.

There are boulders and termite mounds and a

small bushfire attracting the black kites hunting in

the drifting smoke. The Tanami provides refuge

for several of Australia's rare and endangered

species that take cover in the spinifex grass, low

acacias and spindly grevilleas.

The landscape is dotted with windpumps bringing

life giving water from the artesian basin deep

underground. The cattle gather around these



watering places in the dry season when the

natural waterholes dry up.

About the author: Brenda has been involved with fabric

products since she was in primary school. Assisting her

mother after school in a home sewing business, later

exhibiting in both fashion design and quilting & and

patchwork competitions. She has had many articles

published in Australia, Europe & the USA. She currently

sells patchwork patterns on the internet through

quiltersinternational.com and is founder president of

Westernport Quilters Inc. (westernportquilters.org.)

Your Friends Will Be Shocked to Discover That

You Learned How to Make and Machine Quilt a

Beautiful Family Heirloom Quilt Simply by

Watching TV!

Unlock the secrets for beautiful machine quilting

using your home sewing machine by simply

watching this video on your TV or computer.

Details showing how to set up your machine and

guide your quilt as you machine quilt on your

home sewing machine.

You will get beautiful results using the techniques

in this quilting resource!

www.MachineQuiltingAdventure.com



There are several methods of basting to keep the

layers held together while you quilt: pin basting

or thread basting are two options. Another

technique is to use spray basting.

Which method of basting you choose depends on

how you will quilt your quilt.

For hand quilting, pin basting and thread basting

are the best choices. The spray basting tends to

get your quilting needle gummy - and makes it

more difficult to pull it through the fabric.

Spray basting and pin basting are great for

machine quilting.

Here is a step-by-step guide for layering your

quilt.

Step 1

The first step is to find a smooth, hard surface

that is large enough for you to spread your quilt

on, and spread out the backing fabric - wrong

side up. Smooth the fabric flat.

This is fairly easy for smaller quilts. I have a

cardboard cutting mat left over from my clothes-

making days that I unfold and lay on my bed.

I have also been known to use a floor in my

house, or clean off the concrete on the patio

(really well!) and spread out a quilt there.

Layering and Basting Your Quilt

By Penny Halgren from www.How-To-Quilt.com



Some quilt shops offer their large tables to

quilters for basting.

Often I secure the layer to the surface to make

sure it stays put. That can be done using masking

or painters tape or pins.

Step 2

Next, lay your quilt top on the backing - just to be

sure that the backing is large enough. The size of

your quilt will determine how much excess

backing fabric and batting that should extend

beyond the quilt top.

For smaller quilts, use about 2" extra, for larger

quilts, I have at least 3" of the batting and

backing extending beyond the quilt top.

This will be trimmed off after you quilt, and

before you add the binding. Its purpose is to

ensure that the batting, backing and top all end

up the same size after they are quilted.

Step 3

Once you have determined that the backing is

large enough, remove the quilt top.

With the quilt top put aside, lay your batting onto

the backing. The backing is still facing with its

wrong side up.

In this step, smooth the batting out. It is critical to

get the batting as smooth as you can. If there are

bulges and puckers in the batting, it will be very

difficult to have a smooth quilt.



I use all kinds of nudging, patting and pushing to

get the batting smooth. I have also resorted to

pressing - although that is a last resort!

Step 4

Lay your quilt top on the batting, facing right side

up.

Smooth the quilt top out until it is flat. This step is

critical, too.

Make sure that all of the wrinkles are out of the

top, batting and backing. You can feel them with

your hands.

Don't stress too much, though. If you use a hoop

in hand quilting, you will be able to get even

more of the wrinkles out.

If you are machine quilting, you can also stretch

some of the wrinkles out as you feed the quilt

through the machine.

Step 5

Now you get to cut off the excess backing fabric

and batting if you need to.

If this is a bed-size quilt, you will want to leave

about 3" around the edges of your quilt top. For

smaller quilts - wall hangings - you can be safe to

leave around 2 inches on each side.

If you cut the backing fabric and batting the same

size as your top, you are likely to end up short.

(Your top will be larger than the back and

batting.)



Now you are ready to baste your quilt. If you

have secured the backing to the table, it is good

to remove the tape before you baste the quilt.

Step 6

Now you are ready to baste your quilt.

For Pin Basting – I generally use safety pins,

placing them about 4-6 inches apart.

You could start pinning in the center of the quilt

and work your way to the outsides. However, it is

equally effective to pin from side to side and

work your way across the quilt.

To reach the entire quilt, once an area is pinned, I

roll the pinned portion of the quilt and pull the

remainder of the quilt toward me. I’ll continue

rolling up the pinned portion of the quilt until it is

completely pinned.

Of course, if you have secured the backing of the

quilt to the table, rolling it will be impossible –

unless you un-tape it!

For Thread Basting – because there will be

movement in the layers of your quilt as you

thread baste, you’ll want to begin through the

center of your quilt and work to the outside. That

way, the excess will just melt away and the fabric

won’t “bunch up” in the center of your quilt.

There is a distinct advantage to thread basting an

X through the center of your quilt, extending to

the corners. To accomplish that, I start in the

center of the quilt and make big (2-3” long)

stitches, until I reach a corner of the quilt.

Then, I go back to the center and repeat the

process, going from the center to a different

corner.



Once you have the large X basted through the

center of your quilt, it is time to stitch from side

to side and top to bottom.

It doesn’t matter how you begin, but for this

basting, it’s fine to begin from one side and work

your way to the other side.

I find that using one piece of thread works, too.

However, instead of cutting one long piece of

thread that may get tangled, I thread my needle,

pull a length off the spool, but don’t cut the

thread off of the spool. That way, I can keep

pulling the thread off of the spool until I reach the

other side of the quilt.

Once I have reached the other side of the quilt, I

cut the thread away from the spool, leaving a tail

about 4” long. I do not tie a knot in the thread.

Baste the quilt from side to side and top to

bottom, stitching 4-6” apart.

About the Author:

Penny Halgren is a quilter of more than 27 years, and

enjoys sharing her love of quilting with others. Sign up

for her free quilting tips, quilt patterns, and

newsletter at http://www.How-to-Quilt.com



PROJECT - 9-Patch Table Mat


Looking for a quick, fun and easy table

mat to whip up now?

This simple quilted mat has nine, 9-patch blocks

in the centre in a random assortment of blue,

turquoise, brown and grey fabrics, with plain

plum fabric sashing and border.

You Will Need:

Eighty-one, 2 inch squares for the 9-patch units in

colours of your choice. (We cut and pieced ours

separately, however this would be even quicker if

you joined three 2 inch strips together along the

length, and cross-cut at 2 inch intervals. Do a few

different combinations of strips and then you’ll

have enough block variety to separate the strips

so no two blocks are alike.)

This table mat measures 20 inches x 20 inches



½ metre ( ½ yard) plain fabric for the sashing, border and binding

Backing fabric measuring at least 23 x 23 inches square

Batting measuring at least 23 x 23 inches square

Preparation:

From the plain border fabric, cut –

Two strips measuring 2 x 17 inches for the sashing.

Six strips measuring 2 x 5 inches for the sashing

Two strips measuring 2½ x 17 inches for the border

Two strips measuring 2½ x 20½ inches for the border

Sufficient strips 2½ inches wide for the binding (at least 88-90 inches in length)

Assembly:

Arrange and piece the nine, 9-patch blocks for the mat top. Each block should be 5 inches square when

finished.



Join the blocks in rows of three with two strips of the 5 inch sashing between them. Press seams, then

join the three rows together with the 17 inch lengths of sashing.

Sew the 17 inch border strips to each side, and finally the 20½ inch border strips across the top and

bottom to complete the mat top.

Quilting:

Place the backing face down on a flat surface and

tape the edges out flat, then lay the wadding and

quilt top right side up over it, smoothing out any

wrinkles as you go. Pin or thread-baste the layers

together in a four inch grid.

Our quilt was simply machine quilted, with an in-

the-ditch row around the outer edge of each of

the 9-patch blocks. You may prefer an all-over

design.

Binding:

Join the 2½ inch binding strips with 45 degree seams. Press the ¼ inch seams open, then fold the strip in

half, right sides out and press.



Join the binding to the right side of the mat top

edge with a quarter inch seam, mitring each

corner as you go. Trim the batting and backing a

quarter inch beyond the edge of the mat top.

Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back

and slip stitch it in place with thread that matches

the binding to finish.

Project Designed By:

For more access to More than 40 Original BOM

projects for the ONE monthly membership, go to

www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com and check it

out!

Don't keep this Online Quilt Magazine

all to yourself – it's FREE, so share it

with your Quilting Guilds and Friends!

Don't wait - Invite them to

www.OnlineQuiltMagazine.com to

Subscribe and receive each New Issue as

soon as it's Published!



We're pleased to be able to bring you a selection

each month of the Newest Fabric Releases and

the new season fabric "must haves".

Athill Range by Cabbages and Roses for Moda

Born in 1917, Diana Athill, namesake for this

collection, has worked as a literary editor with

some of the most important writers of the 20th

century, she is a novelist and raconteur and is

completely fascinating. In essence this collection

is brim-full of vintage English charm and the

name Athill seemed so fitting. The lovely ditzy

prints, with just the right amount of color, is

beautifully adapted by Moda and divided into

tiny, medium and larger scale prints.

Athill Range by Cabbages & Roses is available in

fat quarter bundles, fat eighth bundles, jelly rolls,

layer cakes, charm packs and yardage. Add a

touch of English classic to your home with our

Country Rose Quilt Kit!

See this range at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/Athill-Range-Moda-

Fabrics-Cabbages-Roses.asp

What's New from The Fat Quarter Shop

From Kimberly Jolly at www.FatQuarterShop.com



California Girl by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda

This collection brings you a summer feeling; it’s a

retro 1950s playful grouping. Meant to evoke

feelings of summer, playtime, 1950s swing skirts

on the boardwalk, surf Bermuda shorts,

delighting in fresh fruit and time without a care in

the world!

With print names like Bermuda ticking, sprouts

and blueberry twigs, this collection mixes a light-

hearted array of prints with fresh, clean colors

calmed with soft creams and light greys.

Perfect for Spring and Summer projects,

California Girl by Fig Tree Quilts is available in fat

quarter bundles, fat eighth bundles, jelly rolls,

layer cakes, charm packs and yardage. Don’t miss

Fig Tree’s new patterns featuring this fun

collection!

Check out this new range at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/California-Girl-Fig-

Tree-Quilts-Moda-Fabrics.asp



Ten Little Things by Jenn Ski for Moda

Let’s count along with Ten Little Things, Jenn Ski’s

debut collection by Moda.

The main panel is made up of ten illustrations

with numbers and pictures - great for a child’s

quilt and will be featured in an adorable project

for a softy book for kids to practice counting and

writing their numbers.

The coordinating prints feature complementary

patterns inspired by the main design - numbers,

owls, toy trucks and other objects of whimsy.

Jenn’s designs are inspired by natural textures

with a retro esthetic, and have a fun, playful

quality that children of all ages will enjoy.

Ten Little Things is available in fat quarter

bundles, charm packs, layer cakes and yardage.

You’ll love the adorable fabric book pattern as

part of the Ten Little Things Project Sheet!

View this collection at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/Ten-Little-Things-

Jenn-Ski-Moda-Fabrics.asp



Friendship By Howard Marcus Dunn for Moda

An 1850s friendship quilt from Philadelphia is the

ninth in a series of reproduction quilts featuring

the Howard Marcus Collection. This friendship

quilt is believed to be a wedding or anniversary

quilt.

With a cheerful red and cream color palette and

fine applique work, this quilt was made with love

and friendship for a happy occasion. The center

of each block is signed in a beautiful script further

indicating the quilter’s desire to create her very

finest work. Many of the signatures are from

members of the same family.

Help support the cause … Feeding America -

“whose mission is to feed America’s hungry

through a nationwide network of member food

banks and engage our country in the fight to end

hunger.” Friendship is available in fat quarter

bundles, fat eighth bundles, charm packs, layer

cakes and yardage. Celebrate the friendships in

your life with our Friendships Moda Quilt Kit!

See the Quilt and more fabric info at:

http://www.fatquartershop.com/Friendship-Howard-

Marcus-Moda-Fabrics.asp



I wanted to discuss toys with other ‘quilty’ cats.

I have lots of toys to chase around, but little balls

of rolled up paper are as much fun as anything. If

I carry these back to the thrower, the game goes

on longer, but I can also hit them all over the

house by myself for ages.

I have a tent (made by Mum) and a long tunnel

lined up with it. I can race the length of the

house, fly through the tunnel and into the tent -

wham! It slides across the floor or tips right over

upside down! Mum may have to make me a new

one soon. Somehow the door is torn quite a bit

on one side. Don't know how that happened.

Mum says she is going to design me a new tent

and include the pattern in a magazine soon.

My favourite chasing toys are the different sized

plastic rings from when they open a new jar of

food. Off comes the lid, then there is a new ring

to bowl over the floor. I can jump and hit them

all over the place and then carry them back to

Mum to throw up again. They smell interesting

for a while, too.

Hints and Tips From Brannie

By "Brannie" Mira-Bateman



Dad made me a scratching post which I use a lot.

Never the furniture - except the office chair.

(Shhh! Don't remind them!)

A pair of Mum's old socks rolled up are great

thing to chase, too. When they go out and leave

me I often move "sockies" to a new place for

them to find when they come home.

When my Mum is quilting, she often uses that

slippery snake with the marks on. It finishes with

'59' in a jagged end that smells very faintly like

another cat. The holes in the end match my

canine teeth exactly. I think there has been a

previous "helper" in this sewing business.

((Mum: Has there ever!!))

Love BrannieLove BrannieLove BrannieLove Brannie,

the Quilt Block of the Month Club Cat!



PROJECT – Squirrel in a Cage Quilt

By Rose Smith from www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk

I love the name of this quilt block: squirrel in a cage. It’s a bold

quilt block that I’ve made in quite a large size to show off the batik

fabrics that I used.

I've also made the quilt itself quite large (76" square) because I

often get asked for patterns for larger quilts.

This is the basic squirrel in a cage quilt block and I've used three

fabrics. I made nine blocks, each 24" square and didn't use any

sashing because I didn't want to interrupt any secondary designs

that appeared - and there were plenty of them.

To make the quilt the same size you will need 1 yard of the lilac

fabric, 2.1/2 yards of the green batik and 3.1/4 yards of the purple

(this includes binding), plus batting and backing fabric.



For each quilt block you will need eight purple squares, two green

squares and six lilac squares, all 4.7/8". These are all used to make

half square triangle units.

Place a purple square with a lilac or green square, right sides

together, and mark a line along the diagonal. Sew a seam 1/4"

either side of the diagonal and cut along the marked line. This gives

you two half square triangle units as shown.

Sew these half square triangle units together in pairs and then fours

to give a square as shown with all the purple fabric making a central

square and one green corner to each block. You'll need four of

these.

Cut four 8.1/2" by 4.1/2" rectangles in each of the

purple and green fabrics and sew these together

in pairs along the 8.1/2" length. Sew one of the

squares that you made above to each side of two

of the two strip panels. Take care that you have

the green corner of each square joining the green

rectangle. These two rows will form the top and

bottom of the squirrel in a cage quilt block.



The middle row of the quilt block is dead easy. Cut one 8.1/2" purple

square and sew the remaining two rectangle blocks to either side of it.

The green rectangle should be attached to the purple square with the

purple rectangles on the outside.

Sew these three rows together and that's the squirrel in a cage quilt block complete. Make eight more of

them and sew them together in rows of three. Sew the three rows together to make a quilt top

approximately 72" square. As you'll see, loads of secondary designs appear which is what I love about

quilting.

I decided to leave the quilt border plain, using just

a 4.1/2" strip of the green batik to frame the quilt

top.

For the cornerstones I wanted to use part of the

quilt block design so I cut four 3.1/2" purple

squares from the leftovers and four 4.1/4" lilac

squares. Cut the lilac squares along both

diagonals and sew the resulting triangles to the

sides of the purple square.



Sew together 4.1/2" wide strips of the green batik to make four

72.1/2" lengths. Sew one length each to the top and bottom of the

quilt top. Sew a cornerstone to each end of the remaining two quilt

border strips and then sew them to the sides of the quilt top.

That's the squirrel in a cage quilt top complete. The quilt top is now

ready for layering, quilting and binding.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

About the Author: Rose Smith was born and brought up in Zambia in Africa. She moved to the UK when she was 18 and now

lives in Shropshire, indulging her passion for quilting and sewing. She has sewn all her life - ‘anything that stood still long

enough’ in the words of her children - but now finds that patchwork and quilting have taken over her life. She indulges this

passion by posting patterns and tutorials on her website for all to share. www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk

LUDLOW QUILT AND SEW

Discover new and exciting projects to quilt

and sew each month with clear and easy to

follow instructions.

Visit our website and subscribe to Ludlow

Quilt and Sew’s free monthly newsletter

now.

www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk

Keep up to Date with What’s Happening on our

Facebook Page –

Do You Love Quilting Too?

Bonus blocks, hints and tips added all the time!!

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Do-You-

Love-Quilting-Too/271888039492644



Here are some tips for attending quilt shows. It is

always a very tiring day, so here are some tips to

help you make the most of it.

* If you can get a programme for the workshops

and classes before the show, then you can plan

your day in advance. If not, when you first arrive,

study the form and take note on the times you

need to be somewhere. There's nothing worse

than discovering a workshop you really wanted to

do just finished a half hour ago. And remember

the show discount coupons too....

Get a map of the stalls and workshop areas etc.

so you know where you are going. As most

people start near the entry door and work their

way on from there, you may like to be a

contrarian and do it in reverse. This is often a less

crowded way to go around the displays.

* Comfy shoes are a must and I suggest bringing a

spare pair of very comfortable shoes to change

into after a while to give your feet a rest.

You can change back again after another few

hours. As much as we all like to dress up for a big

day out, comfy shoes will see you actually

enjoying your day without blisters or squashed

toes.

* Have an early morning cuppa and an early lunch

to avoid the crowds. Bring your own lunch and

snacks and take advantage of those Rest and

Recover areas that are often provided now.

Again, we know it's fun to have lunch out on your

day out, but to be honest, the food is often

overpriced and just not that exciting. And after

queuing for 45 minutes just to get a sandwich....

That's wasted show time! If you want to buy

lunch, consider eating lunch a little earlier, before

the rush hits!

Tips For Attending Quilt Shows…

Collated by Annette Mira-Bateman



* Bring plenty of bags to carry things in. Soft bags

inside other bags are a good idea. Even better if

you have one, is one of those wheeled trolley

bags - you can fit a spare pair of shoes and your

lunch, AND all the new treasures you've acquired

throughout the day!

* You will really need more than one day to do

the really big shows. If you want to book into a

few workshops or classes, you mightn't have

much time to see the stalls and quilts. It is worth

taking more time if you can.

* Take a notebook to make notes on the stall

number you want to get back to. Take notes on

that workshop and always collect paperwork on

anything of interest. Read it later or at

lunchtime. (See bags above.)

* Husbands or menfolk. As very few of these are

actually interested in a single thing at the show,

preferably leave them off at a large hardware

store on the way. Offer to return for them later.

If they accompany you inside under sufferance,

then they are there to carry things, not to walk

down the centre of the aisles with their arms

folded. Please give them things to carry.

(Otherwise park them in one of those Rest areas

while you go to see interesting (and perhaps

expensive) things.)

* For small children and babies in prams -

preferably attach them to one of the above

menfolk and tell them firmly that you will see

them later at a certain place and time.

* This may be the most important tip we have too

- acknowledge that by about 3pm, you've

reached what we call 'choc-o'clock', and you

really just should do something about it!! (We

do! Daily!!! Hmmmmmm......)

This is your day out. Forward planning will

ensure you get the most out of it. Quilt shows

are fun! Enjoy!



Still travelling, this month Pamela has sent us a

Letter from Thailand:

Dear Patchworkers-All,

Yes, it is Chiang Rai, not Chang Mai, but I’m told

that Chiang Rai is now what Chang Mai was 20

years ago – largely unspoilt by tourism.

An hour to the north by plane from Bangkok, and

only a boat-ride from Laos’ answer to Angkor

Wat, namely Luang Prabang, described (in “1000

Places to See Before You Die”) as a sleepy

backwater town and ancient Imperial Capital all

in one and it’s definitely on my Bucket List!

The local Hilltribe crafts are amazing, with the

Night Market an excellent opportunity to see and

buy. Just look at this cross-stitched jacket!

The Thai Road Less Travelled

By Pamela Davis of Patchwork Quint-essential



With such items as this fine cross-stitch design on

black, made by the Ahka people, it is important to

factor into the asking price, the time it would take

to make it.

When that is taken into account, they are cheap

at twice the price. The colours are bright and

beautiful and the designs reminiscent of many we

use in patchwork, so an Ahka-inspired quilt would

be a fine accompaniment to a souvenir.

Then there is the folded patchwork of the

Hilltribe group known as Lisaw (Lisau), in colours

we often label as “Amish”!, and combinations

either bright as in their elaborate costumes, or

elegantly somber. Interestingly, I have always

known this style as “Thai”, but strictly speaking,

we should call it “Lisau”.

It is well worth to make the time to visit the

Hilltribe Museum on Thananol Street. It’s on the

same street as you will find the Saturday Walking

Street market - a great place to get the feeling of

Chiang Rai and pick up some clothing bargains

(incl. beautiful pashminas) as well as see some of

the local crafts and try some street food. There’s

also a Sunday walking market. A fun way to get

around is by tuk-tuk, and you will be delightfully

surprised if you ask the cost to your destination

before you board.

And yes, I did manage to find some good quality

Japanese fabric in the Municipal Market aka Clock

Tower Market. Actually there are two clock

towers in the middle of crossroads, one a white

blockish variety and the other a ‘fantasmagorical’

golden wonder, with Thai curly-cues a-plenty.

(Actually, they are representations of fingers of

the Buddha.)



The market, which is under cover, runs between

the clock towers, and between Thairath Road and

another; to coin a phrase, “You can’t miss it”!!

Temee Road runs at right angles to Thairath

Road, and goes right through the ‘middle’ of the

market. Temee Road is what you’re looking for, if

it’s cottons you want.

One of the fabrics which particularly took my eye

was an all-over fine graph-paper design, with the

fine lines coloured in a shade darker than the

background. This sort of design is just THE VERY

BEST when it is quilted, as from a distance, the

quilting shadows are highlighted so the colour

can assume added texture quality.

I once saw a superb example of this in the

background of a naïve country-style quilt and

more recently similarly in the background of

Baltimore-style quilt. Stunning!

The range of colours in these fabrics was best in a

store closer to the Temee Road entrance. Other

fabrics there which would behave similarly are

tiny printed checks, also available in a large range

of neutrals there.

But if you enter the market from Thairath Road,

don’t think that the first few fabric shops are the

only ones. Throw timidity to the four winds, pass

the food-stalls, the fish market, the meat and

other foodstuffs and just when you can imagine

that you’ve walked half a block, on your left is

292 Chaisilpin Road, a shop owned by a

delightful Indian couple, Ramesh and his

charming wife, Sujata Vacher. They speak

perfect English and are happy to chat, which was

quite a relief as I had been managing on a sort of

sign language charade, usually effective but quite

exhausting!



They have an interesting selection of quality

cotton prints, mostly small-design ‘Japanese’

patchwork fabrics. The patterns are often

American-inspired, but with a distinctly Japanese

touch. (They also have a few battings and

notions, like interesting bag handles.)

And the cost? At the time of writing, a mere

80THB per metre; with the AUD$ at around

30THB for one AUD$, that’s true value in

anyone’s language!

This part of the world captured my fancy – the

people are gracious, the food is scrumptious and I

even found a place to share my patchwork skills –

a dormitory to help Ahka Hilltribe children make

the most of an education, and thereby forge a

pathway for their family out of the cycle of

poverty which has been made worse by

marginalization. This dormitory is the inspiring

work by a young Australian lady!

I’ll be back ………….. The sooner, the better! And

the weather was just perfect in January.

About the Author: Pamela Davis has been an avid sewer

since she was 10 years old. Pamela’s business –

“Patchwork Quint-essential” is based in Canberra, Australia;

you can visit Pamela in her studio, or it is quite possible that

she can bring 12 boxes of exclusive Asian fabrics to you and

your patchworking friends. Just contact her on 0448 232

647, or 06292 3727 or email on [email protected]

to organize a Patchwork Party. Please leave a message, if

she is out Party-ing!!

Check out my large range of Batiks!

Contact Pamela Davis of

Patchwork Quint-essential at

[email protected]

Or phone Pamela on 02 6292 3727

or 0448 232 647. Please leave a message!

Remember to book your Patchwork Party Plan

timeslot; there are only so many opportunities to

play with new fabrics, hear stories about them and

have fun with your friends over a cup of tea. Get in

early!



This month, we’re continuing on with our original

design “Quilt Label of the Month” series.

As you know, it is important to attach a label to

each quilt you make with the date, your name

and details like the name of the Quilt and for

whom it was made.

Any of the story behind the quilt is always good

to add too, as that way future generations will

have more information on the making of your

quilt!

These labels will be provided as line designs, as

(with all of our designs), you will have a choice on

how you decide to make your label. Many can be

appliqued, and all can also be hand embroidered,

following the same design.

This month is our Australian Waratah Label. This

iconic native Australian Flower is a lovely bright

red, with dark green leaves.

You may like to applique this flower on the label,

or stitch the outline with two strands of

embroidery floss if you prefer.

Print the design from the following page and

enlarge if you’d like. You can then write on (or

embroider) the label details as you wish.

Enjoy!

Project – Quilt Label of the Month




This month’s block is the lovely pieced Aunt

Dinah Block. It is a stand-alone block by itself, or

repeat the block for some different secondary

patterns on your next quilt.

To make this 9 inch block as shown, you will need

3 different fabrics, and once you have rotary cut

the pieces according to the Cutting Diagram, you

can piece them together as shown.

Block of the Month



Today’s Tips:

We’ve got some fab tips this month sent in from

our readers. Thanks very much, and if you have

any others you’d like to share, please send them

to me at [email protected]

* A hint that I use in my quilting classes. If you

poke your finger & get blood on your quilt take a

small piece of fabric (or bunched up thread ) wet

it with your saliva amd rub on the spot. The

enzymes in the saliva will wash off the blood. If it

is your blood it also has to be YOUR saliva.

- Yvonne, Prince Edward Island, Canada

* Today I started a hanging for our church. I had

to make 4 flying geese for each block. The fabric

that needed to be marked from corner to corner

was dark and hard to see the marking. I folded

and pressed corner to corner instead, and easily

followed the fold line. As long as one has good

lighting this works.

- Shirley, Canada

* I have read in my magazines about strips for

joining batting. This product doesn't seem to

have reached New Zealand yet but even if it did it

would probably be expensive. I hate joining

batting by sewing!

Recently I had a large bed quit (destined as a

special gift for my sister's 60th birthday and their

40th wedding anniversary) professionally quilted

and since the quilt had to go to England weight

and bulk was an issue. I felt that the

professional's batting was too heavy for the

purpose and preferred to use my own thinner

batting which had to be joined.

I decided to try very fine iron on vilene so cut

strips about 2 inches wide, lowered the heat on

the iron and joined the strips. It was much

quicker than sewing and very effective. I would

suggest straightening the edges as I found the

selvedges of my batting were quite uneven and

quite thin in places too. Hope you find this

useful!

- Anne, Christchurch, New Zealand



* Here is a tip I use in applique. I save all my dryer

sheets after use. I draw the pattern onto the

wrong side of my fabric. Place the fabric on top of

the softener sheet and sew all around the design.

Cut an opening in the softener sheet and turn

inside out. Edges are turned and ready to sew.

Also leaves your quilt with a nice fresh smell.

- Barbara, Florida, USA

* Since I was using silicone caulk (the clear kind)

for some bathroom touch-ups, I put some on my

quilting rulers. Works wonders, they don't slip

around.

Hat pins and corsage pins work as stiletto's too.

My stiletto kept rolling off my machine although

it was not entirely round handled. The other

day I wrapped a small rubber band around it

,voila! it says put now.

- Shirley, Dawson Creek, BC, Canada

* When you finish making a quilt, use some of the

scrap fabrics to make a "pillow case" for the quilt

to be stored in when it's not in use.

You may even like to add a zip to close the top, to

keep your quilt dustproof. Not only do the fabrics

help you identify which quilt is in the bag, but

should the quilt need repairs, you can use the

fabrics in the dust cover!

- Sharon, Sydney, Australia

* A free motion quilting tip:

The saleslady who demonstrated the darning

foot, when I bought my sewing machine,

suggested that a failsafe method for good free

motion quilting is to have a glass of white wine

before you start, to help you relax and loosen up!

- Elizabeth, Western Australia



YES, We Want to Hear From

You!

As our Online Magazine continues to grow each

month, we need your feedback in order for us to

continue to improve our publication for you.

• We want to know how you liked it.

• We want to know the topics you're

interested in.

• We want to know if you have any

suggestions, Hints or Tips of your own that

you'd like included, or if you know anyone

we should include a story on!

Please send me an email with your Testimonial,

Tip, Suggestion or Enhancement – I'd love to hear

from you!

Send all emails to:

[email protected]

If you'd like to submit an Article, or a Project

for Publication, or take advantage of our Very

Very Reasonable Advertising Rates, please

email details or queries to Jody at

[email protected] .

To subscribe to our FREE Monthly

Online Quilt Magazine, please go to

www.OnlineQuiltMagazine.com and

register so you don’t miss another

issue!

"Quilt-y" Sayings…

• Quilts made with love age with

time, but never lose their warmth.

• Slow Moving Seamstress: Fast

Moving Thread & Needle!

• You may admire my dust, but

please don't write in it!

Online Quilt Magazine â€“ Vol. 3 No. 3 Online Quilt Magazine

Documents

Transcript of Online Quilt Magazine â€“ Vol. 3 No. 3 Online Quilt Magazine