Oi Vietnam Issue #23 (February 2015)

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Image: Ngoc TranModel: Actress Le Thuy

Make-up Artist: Tieu TinhLocation: ToTT, Windsor Plaza

Dress: Thuy House Design

EvEryWHErE you go

ƠI VIỆT NAM

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊNChịu trách nhiệm xuất bản:

Giám đốc - Tổng biên tập: Đoàn Minh TuấnChịu trách nhiệm nội dung:

Phó giám đốc - Phó tổng biên tập: Nguyễn Trưởng

Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản:Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd

48 Hoàng Diệu, Phường 12, Quận 4

In lần thứ hai mươi ba, số lượng 6000 cuốn,khổ 21cm x 29,7cm

Đăng ký KHXB: 1755 -2014/CXB/31-50/TNQĐXB số: L634/CXBIPH-QLXB

Chế bản và in tại nhà in Phụ NữNộp lưu chiểu tháng 4/2014

Website: www.oivietnam.com

This Month’s cover

General [email protected]

Inquiries [email protected]

Director XuAN TrAN

Managing [email protected] VAN

Managing [email protected] VAN DEr KloET

Deputy [email protected] PhAM

[email protected] NGuyENAssociate Publisher

Graphic [email protected] NGuyEN

[email protected] PhAM

Staff Photographer NGoc [email protected]

[email protected] 440 0302

chAu NGuyEN


hANh (JEssIE) lE


lA TIEu PhuoNG (hEIDI)


NGAN NGuyENFor advertising please contact:

PhuoNG TrAN [email protected] 869 3680

hANNIE Vo [email protected]

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[email protected] www.aisvietnam.com/openday

facebook.com/AustralianInternationalSchoolVietnam youtube.com/aisvietnam

t: +84 8 3742 4040

14 MARCH 2015 9AM – 12noon

XI Campus | Thao Dien Campus | Thu Thiem Campus

We ARe noT HeRe jusT To TeACH, buT To create curiosity.

Open DAy

experience how AIS will lead your child to a brighter future

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contents

P20 fAcIAl rEcoGNITIoNA revealing interview with French photographer Rehahn Croquevielle

P24 lIfE IN DANcECaptivating images of dancers outside of their element

P38 lIGhT uP ThE NIGhTThe newest late-night lounge to hit the scene

P52 sNAP DEcIsIoNsInvesting in photographic prints

P54 METAMorPhosIsLose yourself in Copenhagen

FEATurES

P8 DATEbooKWith these events, you'll never have to be bored again

P12 ThE bullETINChecking out the latest promotionsand openings

P16 TroI oIFind out why volcanic caves, electric buses and a bomb threat made it into our list this month

P18 DEATh bEcoMEs hIMWho killed Dr. Lam?

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WINE & DINE

rEsTAurANT rEVIEW Zombie BBQ descends on the hungry

WINE & DINE

rEsTAurANT rEVIEW Zombie BBQ descends on the hungry

ima

ge

by

Ng

oc

Tr

AN

P62 ThE IDIoT boXThe TV generation versus thetablet generation

coLuMNS

P13 lEGAl EAsEReading between the lines on the new realestate laws

P23 DoN’T TrIP AT hoMEFinding balance when decorating

P32 chEErs!Sherry, sherry baby

covEr STory

ThETET IssuE

Learn the dos and don’ts of Tet for a fortuitous Year of The Goat

covEr STory

ThETET IssuE

Learn the dos and don’ts of Tet for a fortuitous Year of The Goat

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at the biggest international 5 star hotel in Viet Nam

DISCOVER THE ULTIMATE LUXURY EXPERIENCE

38 Tran Phu, Loc Tho, Nha Trang, Viet Nam

Tel: NHA TRANG 058 388 9999 | HA NOI 043 555 3735 | HCMC 083 914 1561

Fax: (058) 388 9900 | Email: [email protected]

Website www.havanahotel.vn

Located perfectly in the heart of Nha Trang Bay, Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang is the

ideal destination for your luxury getaway. Inspired by the beautiful harmony of Western and

Asian styles, the hotel features a uniquely modern charming design concept, leaving you a warm

welcome from the moment you enter the Hotel Lobby through to different rooms and suites.

41-storey building with 1.260 ocean-view guest rooms.

Only 40 minutes from Cam Ranh International Airport.

Private underground tunnel leading from the hotel to the beach.

Infinity swimming pool with panoramic ocean view.

Impressive dining experience with wide selection of cuisines.

Helicopter landing on the top roof.

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DatebookWhat's on this month...

þ Aesthetic Dermatology (Acne, Wrinkles, Hypertrophic and Keloid scars, Botox and Restylane injections)

þ Laser Dermatology (Acne Scars, Melasma, Freckles, Facial Rejuvenation, Spider Veins, Hair Removal…)

þ General Dermatology (Eczema, Psoriasis, Rosacea, Skin infections…)þ Skin Cancer Evaluation, Treatment and Removalþ Hair and Nail Disordersþ Laser treatment (Toe Nail Fungal Infection, Warts…)þ STD screening and treatmentþ Hepatitis B, C, and HIV treatment

We specialize in:

TRUST YOUR SKIN TO A DERMATOLOGIST !

LASER DERMATOLOGY CLINIC

Add: 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, District 1, HCMC - ( 08.3925.1990Website: www.stamfordskin.com - Email: [email protected]

SPECIAL OFFER: discount 15% for Skin Rejuvenation Services (Botox, Dysport, Restylane and Juvéderm) from 19/1/2015 to 17/2/2015

What: 2015 Fun CupWhere: Muine BayAbout: Windsurf free riders and racers descend once again to Muine Bay for this year’s premier windsurfing event in Vietnam. The Vietnam Fun Cup brings over 30 professional and amateur competitors from around the world, competing for the children of Ham Tan Orphanage and School for Blind and Disabled Children. Joining them will be some of the best local Vietnamese racers who will display high speed turns through a grueling course all while being challenged by the East Sea’s always unpredictable waves.contact: Email [email protected] for more info

fEbruAry 6 &7

What: Tet Shopping FairWhere: Cung Van Hoa Lao Dong (55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1); 8am – 10pmAbout: There will be 120 vendors selling clothing, accessories, ceramics, and Tet related products like cakes, cookies and flower arrangements, as well as a lucky draw contest. A Filipino band will play from 6:30pm – 9:30pm contact: Email [email protected] for more info

What: Snow White and the Seven NguyensWhere: Vista Walk (P2 level, 628C Xa Lo Ha Noi, D2); VND200,000About: If you missed this original British-style panto written by actor/directors Emily Huckson and Heather Robinson last December, now is your second chance to see it. It’s their take on the famous story of Snow White but with a Vietnamese twist. Join Snow White as she tries to elude her evil stepmother’s plans and meets the quirky yet lovable seven Nguyens who help her each step of the way.contact: Email [email protected] for more info

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What: Wine & Food New ZealandWhere: RMIT (702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7); VND1.6 million; 4pm – 10pmAbout: After a short hiatus, Wine & Food New Zealand 2015 is back to provide the good folk of Saigon with gourmet cuisine, fabulous wines (and not forgetting the beer) plus entertainment from both here and abroad. Eat Drink Give is the theme with the “Give” raising funds and awareness to help continue the work being carried out by the Ba Chieu Girls’ Shelter who has a strong Kiwi connection since its founding in 1996 by Celia Caughey, former New Zealand Consul General in HCMC.The event will double as the official kick off in HCMC for New Zealand and Vietnam celebrating 40 years of friendship and diplomatic relations which will see a year-long program of events throughout the country.contact: Visit Facebook: “wineandfoodnewzealandhcmc” for more info

What: Global Youth SummitWhere: Crescent Plaza (105 Ton Dat Tien, D7); 4pm - 8pmAbout: Global Youth Summit unites 200 plus presidents of AIESEC from 124 countries to discuss youth leadership and empowerment. Global Youth Summit 2015 is a unique and active platform for Vietnamese youth to learn and exchange knowledge and experiences on what it takes to be an international youth and business leaders.contact: Visit www.gys.aiesec.vn/global-youth-summit for more info

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84 Ho Tung Mau st, Ben Nghe ward, D1, HCMC(08) 3914 4402

[email protected]

Find us on Facebook and TripAdvisor:

What: M2 – Marketing and Media NetworkWhere: Hard Rock Café (39 Le Duan, D1); 5:30pm – 8:30pm About: For people interested in advertising, digital, marketing and media. The event will include speakers who are experts in their industries who will each speak for 15 – 20 minutes, with a moderated question and answer session. There will be networking with drinks and food before the presentations and additional networking and drinks after. Tickets are 250,000 VND per person for pre-event registration and payment or VND350,000 at the door. contact: Visit Facebook: “M2Event” for more info

What: Ta Lai Tet Holiday Camp; VND6.9 millionWhere: Ta Lai LonghouseAbout: An overnight camping and adventure holiday for kids that include kayaking, trekking, swimming, cooking, farming and more.contact: Visit www.talai-adventure.vn for more info

fEb15 - 18

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Elegant surroundings, central location, professional service and the �nest cuisine.You can �nd all this and more at Norfolk Hotel.

117 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, VietnamTel: (84-8) 3829 5368 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 - Email: [email protected] - Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn

Managed by Norfolk Group

ハンバーグ専門店「ぎゅう丸」

When call to reserve table,customer will receive one drink for each person

8/3 Le Thanh Ton, D.1, HCMCTue - Fri:

Sat - Sun:

11:30 am - 3:00 pm5:30 pm - 10:00 pm

11:00 am - 10:00 pm

[email protected]

TRY OUR NEW APPETIZER MENU

JAPANESE HAMBURG STEAK RESTAURANT

GYUMARU

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The bulletinPromotions and news in HCMC and beyond...

1880 sAIGoN MoNoPolyboArD GAME“We wanted to take it a step further and create something more interesting and artistic and what better than to do an illustrated vintage version and share some the city’s history along the way,” says the creator behind 1880 Saigon Monopoly (VND700,000). “We wanted to create something that looked more like a piece of art than a board game, and I think we achieved that by incorporating an old 1881 map of Saigon with some traditional Vietnamese art in to the game design and gave it an antique feel, even down to the fonts used.

Although the game is called 1880 Saigon Monopoly it is actually set between the late 19th century to early 1900s and all photo illustrations are from this period including most of the city’s famous architectural landmarks such as the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Post Office, the People’s Committee Building and the Opera House. The board displays both the original street names around that time and the current street names for reference, and the Community Chest and Chance cards are all illustrated to incorporate some of old Saigon’s history and pastimes.

Email [email protected] for free delivery within Saigon.

cAM rANh rIVIErA bEAch rEsorT & sPA DEbuTsLocated on 10-hectares of prime real estate and overlooking a 200 meter wide private beach on the Pacific Ocean, Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa (www.rivieraresortspa.com) had a soft opening last month. The resort, in the first phase, features 70 pool villas and rooms designed and furnished in a contemporary style with elegant touches. Their signature Rosone Restaurant, along with Adora Bar & Lounge, swim up Pool Bar and Rinata Oasis Spa together with a vast array of water and land sport activities will make Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa a great beach holiday resort for travelers searching for relaxation and rejuvenation.

VAlENTINE’s DAy bbQCelebrate Valentine’s Day with an all-you-can-eat Brazilian style barbecue at Au Lac do Brazil (www.aulacdobrazil.com). There will be live music, special cocktails promotions and gifts for the ladies.

soMErsET cENTrAl TD hAI PhoNG cITy oPENsThe Ascott has opened its first Somerset (www.somerset.com) serviced residence in Hai Phong. The 132-unit Somerset Central TD Hai Phong City is located on a prime urban area in the city’s new central business district. The new property is the first international branded serviced residence in Hai Phong and reinforces Ascott’s presence as the largest international serviced residence owner-operator in Vietnam. Ascott currently has over 2,000 apartment units in 13 properties across four cities in the country – Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hai Phong and Danang. To celebrate the opening, Ascott is offering special introductory rates starting from VND1,650,000++ per night or VND30,450,000++ per month for a Studio Executive from now until April 30.

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Authetic Japanese

Kobe Beef

Opening time from Mon to Sat11:30 am - 2 pm

6 pm - 11 pm

Bring this voucher,Get 20% off

7 Bis Han Thuyen, D1, HCMC(08) 3822 0187

[email protected]

Fresh IngredientsImported from Japan

AlTITuDE rEoPENsAfter three months of renovation, Altitude, a rooftop bar located on the 28th floor of Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa (www.sheratonnhatrang.com), has reopened. The new look combines low seating with communal areas so couples or groups can relax and soak up the sounds and sights of Nha Trang. The amazing views are a major attraction – with fantastic 270 degree panoramic vistas of the adjacent coastline.

MAIsoN MIKIo ProMoTIoN Maison Mikio Boutique Salon (8 Ton Dat Tien Street in the Garden Plaza 2 Complex, Phu My Hung) is offering 20 percent off on hair coloring, perm, waxing and all skin care services. The salon and spa offers clients a spacious yet intimate setting for salon and beauty services such as hair styling, coloring, manicures, pedicures, skincare and waxing. Call 5412 4773 or visit Facebook: maisonmikio for more info.

hoTEl NIKKo sAIGoN TET ProMoTIoNEmbark on the Year of the Goat with Tet dining experiences at Hotel Nikko Saigon. At Ming Court a Prosperous Dinner set menu is priced at VND1,100,000++ per person, a Ming Court Peaceful Dinner set menu (Vegetarian set menu) is priced at VND800,000++ per person, and a Dim Sum Brunch is priced at VND650,000++ per person. Available from February 18 – 22.

INTErcoNTINENTAl NhA TrANG ArT EVENTAt InterContinental Nha Trang, the Culin’Art exhibition represents a desire to engage travelers with the beauty of Khanh Hoa Province. Photographer Thiery Beyne will collaborate with the IHG Culinary Ambassadors Program. Together, they will marry colors, flavors and emotions to create an exhibition of portrait and travel photos complemented by a menu of exclusive signature dishes designed by celebrity chefs from around the world and culinary talents at InterContinental Nha Trang. Thiery Beyne was born in France on 1955. He is a freelance photographer and a member of AVEED (Amis Du Vietnam Enfance En Danger) based in Nha Trang. The culinary and photo event is on from now until February 24.

sTAMforD sKIN cENTrE ProMoTIoNStamford Skin Centre (99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1; www.stamfordskin.com) is having a Tet promotion as a token of their appreciation to customers by offering a 15 percent discount on skin rejuvenation services like Botox, Dysport, Restylane and Juvederm from now until February 17. Only 15 minutes for non-surgical treatments to help reduce deep lines and wrinkles to achieve younger-looking skin with virtually no pain and no down time. Stamford Skin Centre has highly qualified dermatologists providing accurate diagnosis and safe, effective treatments.

ProMoTIoNs AT hoTEl EQuATorIAlValentine’s BuffetThe Chit Chat restaurant offers a buffet dinner featuring all the delicacies you can dream of. Live entertainment with special gifts for ladies, priced at VND940,000++/ person. Valentine’s Dinner Orientica restaurant will offer a romantic Valentine’s set Dinner Menu. All ladies will receive a free gift with our compliments. Priced at VND1,298,000++ for two people. Valentine’s Night Live SpecialValentine’s Day diners will be invited to a special evening at Flo, the Lounge where the Funky Haven band will perform romantic songs. Specially created cupid cocktails are priced at VND110,000++ for the all couples. Email: [email protected]

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INTErcoNTINENTAl AsIANA sAIGoN TET ProMoTIoNYu Chu Yee-Sang Salad, or Prosperity Toss, is a popular dish believed to bring luck. Guests can enjoy this colorful raw fish salad from VND288,000++ (serves up to 2 people), VND388,000 VND++ (serves up to 6 people) and VND688,000 VND++ (serves up to 10 people). Private dining rooms at Yu Chu are also available with Tet set menus that include a variety of lucky and happy dishes. The menus are priced from VND888,000++ per person. Available from February 18 to March 5.Market 39 Enjoy a traditional Tet buffet at Market 39 with international and local delicacies that include Vietnamese caramelized pork with egg, Tet sticky rice cakes and many more. Buffet lunch priced from VND498,000++ per person including free flow of tea and coffee.Buffet dinner priced from VND899,000++ per person including free flow of selected house wines, Tiger draught beer, soft drinks and signature cocktails. Sunday Brunch is priced at VND1,488,000++ per person including free flow of Veuve Clicquot champagne, house wines, Tiger draught beer, cocktails and soft drinks. Available from February 18 - 22. Email [email protected] for more info.

bouTIQuE hoI AN rEsorT ProMoTIoNThe Boutique Hoi An Resort is running a promotion that gives travelers who book a room for at least three consecutive nights via their website www.boutiquehoianresort.com a discount of up to 30 percent. Thisdiscount applies fornew bookings from now until April 30 for allroom categories and is non-refundable. Room rates include buffet breakfast for two, free shuttle bus to Hoi An ancient town andbicycle rentals.

MoEVENPIcK hoTEl sAIGoN fooD ProMoTIoNVietnam Art Gallery has teamed up with the hotel this month to display contemporary paintings of Vietnamese artists from February 6 to 20. The exhibition, located at the hotel, will be inaugurated with an auction to sell the artworks. All proceeds from the auction will be donated to Operation Smile – a non-governmental organization that helps to bring the smile back to Vietnamese underprivileged children. Vietnamese month is part of a series of “Taste the World” experiences at Café Saigon restaurant where each month, cuisine from a different country is showcased. A buffet is served to keep with the theme, priced at VND799,000++ per person.For more info [email protected].

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A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing law in Vietnam for more than eight years, currently as a partner

of Audier & Partners based at its HCMC office. With extensive legal experience obtained in the Netherlands and in Cambodia,

Marijn Sprokkereef is now an associate at the Hanoi office of the same firm. Audier & Partners is an international law firm

with presence in Vietnam, Myanmar and Mongolia, providing advice to foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues.

l E G A l E A s E LEGAL COLuMN

home ImprovementWhat the new real estate lawmeans for foreigners

Dear hadrien and Marijn,

I’m an expat who’s been living here for the last seven years. My wife is Vietnamese-American, born in Vietnam but moved to the us at the age of five. As we find our life in Vietnam very comfortable, it has been our long-cherished dream to purchase a house in ho chi Minh city and to settle down. The fact that foreigners were, at least until recently, not allowed to buy real estate in Vietnam has unfortunately discouraged us from pursuing our plans. We’ve recently heard about a new law and are very curious to hear from you whether anything will change for our situation.

WE CAN TOTALLY imagine that you and your wife enjoy living in Vietnam and you are absolutely right to raise a question about the new Law on Housing - a hot topic now.

Under the current legal regime, unless you are a Vietnamese citizen living in Vietnam, it is indeed very difficult, often even impossible, to own residential property here. The new Law on Housing, which was approved by the National Assembly on November 25, 2014, is both intended and expected to open up Vietnam’s real estate market to foreign investment.

Among several other changes, what is most relevant to your situation is that the new law will broaden the opportunities for two categories of individuals to own residential property in Vietnam: foreigners and so-called “overseas Vietnamese.”

To start with the latter category, “overseas Vietnamese” include Vietnamese citizens and persons of Vietnamese origin who are permanently living and residing overseas but who no longer hold Vietnamese citizenship. Under the new law, effective July 1, 2015, people

in this category will be entitled to own apartments and houses. Ownership may be realized through purchase, purchase-lease, by way of gift or inheritance, and through the transfer of land use rights in specified housing projects.

Apart from foreign investors who are active in housing development projects in Vietnam, under the new law all other foreigners who are legally allowed to enter into Vietnam will be entitled to residential housing ownership. Foreign individuals may acquire ownership of residential housing through purchase, purchase-lease, and by way of gift or inheritance.

Not surprisingly, some conditions will apply to the above. For example, the new law will put a cap on the foreign ownership of residential housing. With regard to apartments, the number of apartments under foreign ownership must not exceed 30 percent of the total number of apartments in one apartment building, whereas the number of houses owned by foreigners must not exceed 250 residential houses in a “ward” (that is a term used in Vietnam for an urban sub-district).

Another issue to keep in mind is that the

duration of foreign ownership,which shall be agreed by the parties inthe contract, will be limited to an extendable period of 50 years from thedate of issuance of the ownership certificate. However, here is some good news for you: when you are married to a Vietnamese citizen or an overseas Vietnamese, under the new law you will be entitled to long-term ownership and you will have the same ownership rights as a Vietnamese citizen.

As is often the case, it may take some time before the government will issue further legislation to implement the new law. So to answer your question, we recommend you keep an eye on thelatest developments. These are very interesting times to consider buying property in Vietnam and we wish youand your wife all the best in realizingyour dreams!

Every month, Hadrien and Marijn answer legal questions from Oi readers.If you have any legal question youwant answered, send them [email protected].

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usD21,400is the highest Tet bonus in Ho Chi minh City reported so far at a private business, the city labor department announced. The municipal Department of Labor, War Invalids and Social Affairs on Thursday released information on bonus payments from 900 businesses that employ over 310,000 employees in the city. The rate is equal only to 64.4 percent of last year’s highest Tet bonus rate of VND709 million, paid by a foreign-invested enterprise, the department said. meanwhile, the lowest Tet bonus this year is reportedly VND2.86 million so far. The average Tet bonus of State-owned enterprises is VND5.4 million, while for private businesses and foreign-invested enterprises are VND4.7 million and VND5.5 million respectively.

1year flight ban was given to a man who issued a false bomb threat when he was being escorted as a criminal on a flight from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City last month. Effective January 15, 2015 to January 15, 2016, all domestic and foreign airlines that operate in Vietnam are not allowed to provide flight services to Duc during that period. When the plane was taxiing at the airport to the runway, Duc, who was handcuffed and seated between two police officers, suddenly stood up and said there was a bomb on the plane. The pilot took the plane back to its parking area so that the police officers could escort Duc off the plane. All 246 passengers were taken back to the terminal and had to undergo a security check again. Security inspected the plane as well as Duc’s checked luggage for bombs but found none. Under Article 30 of Government Decree 147 on administrative penalties applied to the field of civil aviation, Duc’s act is subject to a fine ranging from VND30 million to VND40 million.

Troi oiThe country in numbers

electric bus tour of downtown HCmC will roll out at the end of april. The buses will be running every half an hour through major destinations in District 1 including ben Thanh market, the Opera House, the Notre Dame

Cathedral, the Saigon Central Post Office, the Reunification Palace, the Saigon Zoo, the War Remnants Museum, the Ho Chi Minh Campaign museum, and the Vietnam History museum. each tram can carry eight people and runs at below 40 kilometers per hour, according to the transport department’s proposal which has been submitted to the city hall for approval. The buses will operate from 8am until 5:30pm on a daily basis. a group of customers can book a bus for up to three hours for VND600,000.

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Uber taxis were fined in HCMC. The cars were operating at Tan Son Nhat international airport. Drivers who operated individually were fined VND3.5 million each, while those that worked for a business were fined VND7

million. The inspectors said the drivers provided a taxi service without a transportation license and a badge, and failed to show a transportation contract between car owners and passengers. During the first crackdown that started on November 28 last year, municipal traffic inspectors fined 11 drivers, many of whom said they were using Uber. While the controversies about the operation of Uber taxis in Vietnam are still ongoing, recently the ministry of Transport ordered Uber Technologies inc. to sign contracts only with transport companies that have been licensed by Vietnamese authorities and comply with the country's operational standards. it also ordered transportation companies that have or will sign contracts with Uber to comply with Vietnamese laws on cars and drivers. The ministry said random inspections will be launched to periodically check the operations of these transportation companies, and if the companies fail to meet the requirements, they, and Uber as well, will face penalties.

was spent on importing 72,000 foreign cars last year, a 103.8 percent and 117.3 percent increase in volume and value, respectively, compared to 2013, according to the General Statistics Office. According to Nikkei Asian Review, though car sales are booming in Vietnam, local manufacturers face growing competition from imports ahead of the planned scrapping in 2018 of import tariffs on cars from other members of the association of Southeast asian Nations.

usD1.57 bIllIoN10

volcanic caves are undergoing UNeSCOrecognition procedures. authorities from Dak Nong Province are conceiving a project to build a geological park (geopark) that will house 12 volcanic caves recently discovered in Vietnam, with a view to obtaining UNeSCO recognition as a global geopark in the future. The discovery was made in Krong No

District of Dak Nong by experts from the general department and the Japan Caving Association (JCA) after seven years of research. One of the three is 1,055 meters long and the Japanese scientists said it is the longest volcanic cave in Southeast asia, adding that some parts of this cave cover thousands of square meters. UNESCO defines a geopark as an area containing geological heritage sites of particular importance. many geoparks promote awareness of geological hazards, including volcanoes, earthquakes, andtsunamis and many help prepare disaster mitigation strategies among local communities.

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f E A T u r E

Death becomes himStep into a murder mystery that will take you across the city,

exploring every dark corner for clues

TEXT by MIchAEl ArNolD IMAGEs by NEIl fEAThErsToNE

AT AROUND 10:30PM last night, the body of Dr. Lam was discovered on the floor of his apartment in central Cholon. He was most certainly murdered in a strange, ritualistic fashion – and while the police do have a number of people in custody, they remain baffled. Their best chance at solving the case is somewhat unorthodox: bring in a groupof tourists, equip them with a compass, mapand magnifying glass, and send them outinto the streets of Chinatown in search of clues. Find the murderer, and they may be on their way to uncovering an ancient mystery that has lain hidden in the shadows of theold Chinese city for centuries.

Such is the premise of Ubiquest’s (www.ubi-quest.com; regularly VND1.1m/person but only VND950,000 before February 19th) intriguing new tour game Urban Tales, a mashup of role-playing and The Amazing Race that lends a measure of fun and mystique to the exploration of a fascinating part of town – an area which has been difficult for the tourist industry to crack. According to the venture’s CEO Nicolas Plesse, both tourists and those of us who live here rarely get to see the best that Cholon (one of the oldest developed parts of Ho Chi Minh City, and originally a Chinese city unto itself) has going for it. “Most of the tours take people out to Binh Tay market – which isn’t even the original one – and then bring them back again,” says Nicolas, whose interest in the region stems from his several years of working in the local tourism industry. “They miss out on all the more historical parts of town, which are mostly hidden away. The idea of the game is to give people a reasonto go and take a look.”

Players meet at Notre Dame early in the morning and get whisked out to the Chinese city in classic old cars, which immediately conjure up the atmosphere of a long-gone era. Part of the chemistry of the tour, however, is that it’s not really anattempt to transport visitors into a Cholonof the past – the story is set very much inthe present, although the character of theChinese area is brushed over with anantique pen. Dr. Lam’s apartment (installedin a genuine old-style block that offers arare chance for non-Vietnamese to seehow the locals live) is decked out in early 20th-century fashion, and the plot draws players through parts of town that hint at an exotic, timeless Chinese culture – through traditional medicine shops, old temples, the silk markets and period architecture that has yet survived the wrecking ball – and delves into ancient Chinese legend in a twist that serves to impart some genuine historical information.

Time to ‘fess upNicolas, who himself is very active in the local French improv acting community,plays the chief of police, and while he doesn’t walk players through the game – everyone is divided into self-guided teams, following clues and notes discovered at the scene of the crime – he’s never far behind. Each team is handed a cheap Nokia mobile (eliminating the need to whip out your own smartphone

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in the street and risk having it snatched)with which they can contact the police for extra guidance at any time – most especially when they believe they’ve identified thekiller. By finding and speaking with the role-playing actors along the way and solving the murder by a certain time, you’ll unlock a second objective that explores the esoteric world of superstitions upon which the game is based. Neither task is terribly easy to solve without paying close attention to the guidebook you receive as you set out on your investigations – but by following the clues and sticking to the trail (gently guided by Nicolas whenever required) you’ll

emerge with all the answers, having seen a fascinating part of the city through the eyes of its residents.

Ubiquest has the formula just right – the game is complex enough to provide a challenge, but the players are givensufficient time to follow at their own pace. With a certain stamina and the determination to win, players can run through the scenario on foot, covering every stop along the way – while more casual players can take their time to inspect the clues at their leisure, hop between locations by taxi, take selfies in the old temples and follow little diversions of a more traditional touristy nature. The game

finishes with a ride by cyclo to a nearby restaurant serving genuine north Chinese delicacies, and then a journey back to the cathedral by vintage car, sweeping youback into the real Saigon with a deepersense of its concealed cultures.

And while we’re not giving awayany clues, if you do want to take the game seriously, you might want to pay careful attention to the details gathered by thepolice from those who were first on thescene – they might just match up with an even older case that remains unsolved tothis day. Solid evidence, as any detective worth their salt will tell you, is everything.

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f E A T u r E

facial recognition

The stories behind the portraits by Hoi An-based photographer Réhahn Croquevielle

INTErVIEWED by JAMEs PhAM IMAGEs courTEsy of rEhAhN croQuEVIEllE

IT’S GOOD TO be Réhahn Croquevielle. This time last year, the Hoi An-based portrait photographer had about 6,000 Facebook fans. Thanks to a slew of press from the LA Times to National Geographic Online to dozens of Vietnamese TV appearances, magazines in Thailand, France and beyond and countless photography websites, he now has over 162,000 fans the world over. A popular art/photography website even included Réhahn on a list of the top 10 most famous portrait photographers in the world, alongside the likes of Steve McCurry and Lee Jeffries. Oi uncovers how this self-taught photographic storyteller burst onto the scene.

success has come quickly for you considering you really only got into photography seriously three years ago.

rc: Yes. I’ve had more than 70 interviews in the LA Times, National Geographic and many newspaper and magazines in Vietnam. I think I’ve been on national TV here 24 times already and have more appearances coming up. So, it’s good. I’m lucky.

When I look at photos from even four years ago, none of them could be in a gallery now. I really started to take photos when I moved to Vietnam three years ago. And to be honest, when my book [Vietnam, Mosaic of

Contrasts] was published last January [2014], everything changed. A few days ago, I looked at older photos in my hard drive and thought: “My God! How could I have taken that?” [laughs]

A series of photos you took of a young M’Nong girl near buon Ma Thuot with her pet elephant also garnered worldwide attention recently. how did that happen?

rc: I really believe in karma. Three years ago, I took a photo of a young Ede girl with big eyes that sold well. I came back to meet her and give her a book and some money for her family. On the third and last day, I found someone who knew her. I was very touched when I saw her mother put the money on the table, instead focusing on the book. To her, it was more important than the money. All the neighbors and family were excited to see the book, too. As we took a boat to the other side of the lake on the way back, I saw an elephant with a young girl and her younger brother. I tried not to make any noise, but the younger brother saw me and ran off, so I have no good photos of him. But the girl, when she saw me, she went close to the elephant and put her hand on it. A big animal with a little girl. We found her house close by. When we got there, the elephant was in the

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garden and we talked with her mother. I felt this photo was something special.

once you’ve chosen a destination, what is your research process?

rc: My last big trip was India last May. I typed “India” on Google Images to look for inspiration. I also check forums and specialized photography websites to see what I like, to get a feel about the country. For example, with India, I saw many people with beards, with green eyes, a country perfect for portraits. When I travel, I usually just book my first hotel and travel light. Not quite backpacker but almost. Sometimes you have difficult moments, like when a train gets canceled at 2am and you have to sleep in a very hot train station with many people. But it’s part of the experience. Photographers are like writers and painters. We need inspiration, need to feel, need to be free in your mind. We need these kinds of experiences to make good photos.

Is there a secret to portrait photography?

rc: Always try to make them smile. It’s not always possible, but the smile, the smile in

the eyes is important, even if they’re covering their mouth. I like very old people with wrinkles and a beard that takes 30 years to grow. When you see a [photo of a] smile, you can’t explain the story behind it but you know something happened between the photographer and the model. You know that it’s not just a snapshot. I like that, when there’s emotion in the photo. It’s more important than technical settings. For that, I’m not a “real” photographer, maybe. I’m self-taught, never had any training. What is a professional photographer? I don’t really know. Sometimes I don’t want to call myself a professional photographer because if it means talking all day about technical things, I don’t want to be one. I just want to make people happy and feel something when they look at my photo. There are much better photographers than me, but if there are good settings but no emotion, no story, it’s not a good photo. Emotion is the first thing. If people feel something when they look at your photo, that’s what’s important.

you share your photos pretty generously on your facebook page. And they’re not watermarked…

rc: I had a marketing background in France

so that’s a big difference between me and other photographers. They are very good artists but don’t want to post too much online because of copyright. But we’re in the 21st century now. It’s hard to keep copyrights, so for me, I post on Facebook every day. Some photos get 26,000 likes. If each of those people had 50 friends, it’s a million people seeing that photo in 24 hours. A Saigon travel agency used my photo without asking me. I contacted them and told them it was all right as long as they credited me, and they were very happy. In the end, no one wants toshare online. They’re very good but no one knows them.

We’re all inundated with images now thanks to Instagram, facebook and the web in general. Is that a good or bad thing?

rc: Well, just an example for Vietnam.When I searched online for Vietnam in 2007, I only saw photos about the war. But now when I look at Google Images, I see very beautiful photos of Ha Long Bay. I guess it’s like that for many countries. There’s a big choice for photography and it’s very inspiring for me. Things go viral very quickly, too. Many people post and it’s good exposure

M’Nong girl near Buon Ma Thuot with her pet elephant

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for the photographer.

how has life in Vietnam changed you?

rc: I first came to Vietnam in 2007 to spend three weeks with some children we were sponsoring. They lost their father a long time ago. I promised to come back every year. Every time, it became more and more difficult to leave. When I told my friends that I wanted to be a photographer, an artist, and move to Vietnam, they said: “Pshaw, Réhahn, don’t show off. You’re crazy. Why would yougo there?”

French people are like that. They’rescared of everything. If I had listened tothem, I would’ve stayed in France [where Réhahn had a printing business]. But Ibelieve in myself. My wife believes in me. I recently sold three prints for USD10,000. I noticed that my friends [in France] didn’t comment at all on it. But in life, you shouldn’t listen too much to people. There are two kinds of people – losers and winners. Many people around us will always be afraid to do something. But if you believe in yourself,

you can do it, and do it for a reason other than money.

Now, I’m very happy. I’m happy every day when I’m in Vietnam. I didn’t feel like that in France. I felt sick every Sunday night just thinking that I had to go to work on Monday. When I moved here it was a dangerous choice because my son was only one month old. But I’m so happy with my choice. I was born again three years ago as a photographer. Every day, I take my motorbike across the rice fields for the 4 km from the beach to the city. My brother and father have joined me here. I have no more reason to go back to France.

I didn’t come to Vietnam to be rich,but for a lifestyle change. Now I’m lucky; everything is going well for the photos, for the gallery. [Réhahn also owns a restaurant and a homestay in Hoi An.] I feel like when you make your hobby a job, it’s very dangerous. You can lose your passionbecause when you need to earn money,you do things you don’t like and at the endof the day, aren’t motivated to take photosfor yourself, to be inspired. I want to be afree photographer.

out of your thousands of portraits, is there any one subject that has stayed with you?

rc: It’s difficult to say. Maybe Xong,the 76-year-old woman on the cover of mybook. She rows boats for tourists. In fact,from the window in the restaurant where I’m talking to you, I can see her boat from here. She’s still very happy to do that and doesn’t want to stop. That’s such a good lesson to learn about life. She’s 76 yearsold, still working, very poor, very old, buthappy. The photo I took of her three yearsago was one of my first sellable photos,so very special to me. Last June, I boughther a boat. She deserves more than that.I sold many books thanks to her. I stillsee her every day. She always hugs me, touches me, touches my hair. She’s like a grandmother for me. She’s my very good friend now.

Selected photos from Réhahn will beexhibited at VinGallery (6 Le Van Mien, D2) from March 2-21, 2015.

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DESIGN COLuMNh o M E I N T E r I o r

As an interior and furniture designer for Austin Home Interiors (www.austinhomeinteriors.com), McNeill

Shiner is always looking for new ways to mix styles and influences to create spaces that are uplifting,

comfortable and very personal.

Ann Hepfer

Don’t Trip at homeBalance in design is very much like balance in life

IT’S A BIT of a cliché, but I can’t possibly begin without mentioning the staggering feats of equilibrium we see every day: a mound of teetering boxes minimally fastened by a bit of rope to a motorbike that carries them; huge panes of glass standing vertically on the back of the bike, held in place by the passenger; boxes stacked so precariously high you’d be forgiven for wondering where the driver fits. Balance is something we know to be crucial in our lives, and it’s similarly imperative in our living environments.

All of the components of design we’ve discussed in previous columns have visual weight. The general rule is that larger, darker and bolder pieces are visually “heavier”. In interior design, these elements are generally balanced either symmetrically, mirrored exactly along a center line, or asymmetrically distributed in such a way that considers the visual weight of individual elements. As with many other design concepts, the easier route is also the more traditional one — symmetry is found in the human form, and is therefore calming and comfortable. It can also feel static and boring. Asymmetrical balance is more exciting, can be downright dramatic, but is also harder to achieve successfully.

balancing ActThe Anne Hepfer designed living room is a beautifully subtle example of asymmetrical balance. The center of the space is anchored by perfect symmetry — a large square coffee table, mantle and decorative mirror with a pair of sconces and a pair of ottomans to round it out. As your eyes continue towards the outside of the room, you’ll notice that the form of the sofa is reflected by two generously scaled purple armchairs, which are balanced in color by the agate lamps opposite. And the oversized mirror on the left is really a stroke of genius — it beautifully echoes the floor-to-ceiling windows on the right side, creating an illusion of symmetry. A well-chosen piece of art could have

balanced the visual weight of the window and drapery, but mimicking the material and light in this way is even smarter.

Imagine some alternate decisions Hepfer might have made, and how they would affect the overall look. The fireplace mantle’s simple lines are appointed in a soft, creamy marble with minimal veining, so that it nearly fades into the wall color. How would the room feel different if it had been done in a darker material, or a more visually obtrusive design? The same applies to the rug, with its soft white color and subtle, consistent texture. Keeping these two elements understated allows the visually heavier pieces in the room to really sing. The lone accent table next to the sofa has no exact match on the other side of the room, but it works because of its petite size, and the visually strong accessories on the console at left, made

even heavier visually by their reflection in the mirror. Would the space work as well if the designer had used a more traditional full-sized end table?

A great way to play with balance and visual weight in your own home is by working with smaller vignettes, the styling of a specific area. A console or credenza placed against a wall is a perfect example. Start with symmetry — a pair of buffet lamps, a mirror or piece of art hung at center, and a small chair on either side. This is a formula that will exude elegance and style and is hard to get wrong. On the other hand, a single stunning lamp on one side can be beautifully balanced by a trio of candlesticks or small vases on the other, offset against the art. Just be sure that you’re paying attention to the visual weight of each element. For more examples and inspiration, search Pinterest.com for “hallway vignette”.

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T h r o u G h T h E l E N s

IMAGEs by NEIl fEAThErsToNE

life in DanceSeventy percent of Vietnamese live in rural areas, spending their days tending rice fields, visiting temples and preparing for early morning market. “The mist” portrays Vietnamese farming life through contemporary dance (select performance dates in 2015). We asked some of the dancers to take their moves from the Saigon Opera House stage to the countryside, the source of the show’s inspiration. We then challenged them to express the beauty of daily urban life in dance, with the posh Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences, winner of the 2014 World Luxury Hotel awards for Luxury Suite Hotel (Vietnam), as the backdrop. What they showed us is that wherever you live, there is beauty in the everyday.

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The Tet IssueAs the new year begins and the old year is put to

rest, al l Vietnamese rejoice in their most important hol iday - Tet. The l iving pay homage to the dead,

and younger community members honor their elders. Famil ies are reunif ied; the coming of spring and the

planting season are celebrated. This is a t ime for relaxation, joy, and hope.

ChuC Mung nAM Moi!

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MY NAME IS Vuong and I own Bao Anh Apricot Blossoms (maitetbaoanh.com). I’m gearing up for the busiest time of the year, the two weeks before and after Tet. I have more than 1000 trees spread across six nurseries in Thu Duc, just outside the city. All year long, we take care of these trees to make sure they bloom just in time for the New Year. Vietnamese believe that when they blossom fully at Tet, it means your family will be joyous, prosperous and lucky in business.

I remember as a kid, my mother put a few apricot branches in a vase. Somehow, on New Year’s Eve, the fan blew all the blossoms onto the floor. That year, our house got robbed so many times! I remember not even having clothes to wear to school. Then there was the time three years ago, when our apricot tree was stolen from right in front of our house. I had an accident that year. Last year’s tree, though, bloomed from top to bottom. I never saw so many flowers! Am I superstitious? Maybe. But last year was my best year for business ever. I was able to buy four new

trucks for my [year-round] transport business and two more are on the way.

Around Tet, people sell these apricot trees everywhere. But most people who visit these pop-up places go only to look. Out of 100 people, maybe only one or two will buy. Serious buyers go to the apricot gardens. There, out of 100, maybe 98 or 99 will buy. I hear that in the West, some people might buy an ugly Christmas tree because they feel sorry for it. Not here. You can take pity on almost anything, but not a Tet tree. Because it represents someone’s fortune for the whole year, you have to pick a good one. People see a reflection of themselves in it – prosperous, vibrant, happy. Of course, you can’t always tell. Sometimes a tree looks great on the lot, but when someone takes it home, it may not blossom very much or the flowers aren’t pretty. Then there are others that surprise you. Sometimes my workers will ask if they can have one of the trees that doesn’t sell, an ugly one or a weak-looking one. But for some reason, on Tet, it takes on new life and

My Life as…A Tet Flower Seller

interviewed by James Pham images by ngoc Tran

becomes breathtakingly beautiful. What can you do?

Then there are the renters. Most of my business comes from people who rent trees which means we’ll deliver these trees to their houses and go back to pick them up after Tet. It’s cheaper, about 30 percent of the cost of buying the tree outright. They might not have space in their house to keep the tree or they might not know how to take care of it. Other people buy the trees as an investment and after Tet, we’ll pick them up and take care of them for the whole year, just in time for the next Tet.

There’s no money in being an apricot tree gardener, though. Yes, I have some valuable trees ― my most prized one being worth VND1 billion. A few years ago, someone offered me VND700 million for it, but I wouldn’t sell it. It’s now over 80 years old and it comes from strong stock. The roots are solid. We spend the year taking care of the trees very well: watering, pruning and fertilizing at the right times. Sometimes, though, trees die. It’s nature. But because customers only pay when they get the tree, that means all our efforts during the year will have gone down the drain if something happens to it. And we can’t switch them out because people have pictures of their tree from the year before, so they’ll know if it’s not theirs. Or sometimes, when they party, someone will pour beer or even discarded tea grounds into the pot and the trees will die. The trees are quite sensitive, you know.

Like I said, there’s not much profit in this business. I only do it because it reminds me of my childhood. It brings joy to both the buyer and the seller. It’s also tradition. It’s what our ancestors have left behind for us. The Japanese have their cherry blossoms. We have apricot blossoms. Even if your house is small and crowded, seeing a few branches of yellow blossoms at Tet brightens up the whole house. It simply wouldn’t be Tet without them.

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LIKE MANY SOUTHEAST Asians, the Vietnamese would not consider making a major decision, whether it involved marriage or building a house, without considering the lunar calendar and consulting an astrologer, psychic or fortune teller. This is pragmatism to them, not superstition: Abiding by these forces of nature is how one finds harmony with one’s surroundings and is in turn rewarded with good luck and a happy life.

Vietnam's folkloric beliefs - three people, for instance, will never pose together in a photograph because the one in the middle will be struck by ill fortune - are a mixture of Buddhism, Confucian ideology, local tradition, paganism and ancestor worship. Out of this nourishment for the soul comes the belief that one's destiny is determined by the time, day and year of birth.

Is it true that you shouldn't be the first person to visit someone's house on the first day of Lunar New Year?

Generally, this is true. Vietnamese people believe that the first person to visit their house on the first day of Tet will dictate the family’s fortune for the entire year. To ensure year-round good fortune, they practice a ritual called xong dat or dap dat on the first day of Tet. Instead of leaving things to chance, each family will carefully choose a designated first

visitor. This person is typically someone who is renowned for their fortune, has had a great year, and is born on a compatible Zodiac sign with the host family. A well-chosen visitor ensures good fortune for the visited family.

Anyone (whether Vietnamese or a foreigner) who unknowingly disrupts this rite by visiting a Vietnamese family before the designated first visitor arrives may end up with very angry hosts as a result, so be sure to call ahead before visiting anyone. This ‘first visitor’ ritual is also practiced at offices and shops in the hope of increased profitability for the future.

Is it true you should eat all the food in the fridge before the first day of Tet?

No, not true. Before Tet, Vietnamese will clear all the old food out of their fridge. Whether the food is eaten or thrown out is up to the individuals. Similar to other beliefs and practices concerning luck and misfortune around and during Tet time, old or spoiled food is seen as impure elements that attract misfortune and need to be cleaned out before the New Year. And since the majority of the markets and supermarkets are closed for Tet, fridges are stocked in the days leading up to it to last the entire holiday with fresh food and items that can keep for a long time.

Is it true that employers should tip

employees one month’s salary as a Tet bonus?

There are no clear answers to this question. The Tet bonus is a popular topic and is covered by the local press before and after Tet every year, and countless news articles have been written on the etiquette and peculiarities of the Tet bonus.

Tet bonuses increase or decrease depending on the economy and the financial status of individual companies. It is also seen as a commentary on the employee’s performance. On average, most companies pay out a bonus of one to three months of their employee’s salary, however this is not set in stone. Struggling companies have been reported to pay their employees in overstock products or other items.

As a rule of thumb though, if you can afford it, pay your workers the average rate. And if you can’t and have to opt for a non-monetary bonus, as many struggling companies have done before, then it is important that you make sure your employees know they are appreciated.

Is it true that companies try to pay off their debts before Tet?Yes, this is true. The Vietnamese believe that having debt at the beginning of the New Year makes for very bad luck and will jinx their

Text by nPD Khanh images by ngoc Tran

Tet Mythbuster SpecialFoLLow These ruLes To guaraNTee a good Year ahead

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financial fortune for the coming year. So as a result, most companies will try to clear off their debts and refrain from incurring new ones in the last month of the old year and the first month of the new one. This belief also extends to the reverse in that outstanding loans from last year or at the beginning of the new one will also jinx their financial fortune. This in turn has made the ending of a year the peak debt collecting season in Vietnam where most companies aggressively attempt to collect on outstanding loans and ensure no new ones occur during the first month of the New Year.

Is it true you shouldn't sweep your house during Tet because it symbolizes sweeping away good fortune?

Yes, this is true. Vietnamese believe that if you sweep your house on the first three days of Tet you will also sweep away the family’s fortune. House cleaning is a task reserved for the week before Tet where families hold extensive cleaning sessions similar to Western spring cleaning. The days after the first three days aren’t considered as important however, and whether the practice is still maintained after the first day depends on individual families.

what is the origin of the name 'Tet' and what is its meaning?

The name Tet comes from the old Nom (the language preceding the current Vietnamese) name “Tiet Nguyen Dan” or “Nguyen Dan Tiet.” ‘Tiet” means “the moment.” “Nguyen” means “primordial beginning” and “Dan” means “dawn”. Combined, the original name for “Tet” translates to “the moment of primordial

beginning at dawn.” The name currently used, Tet, is the shortened version spoken in the modern Vietnamese language.

why do northern Vietnamese keep peach trees in their houses while southern Vietnamese keep apricot trees? do they have a meaning?

Yes, the different flower varieties do have a meaning. Northern Vietnamese keep red peach trees because of Chinese influence and peach blossoms are believed to have the power to ward off evil spirits and ill fortune. Southern and central Vietnamese families on the other hand keep the yellow apricot trees because they believe the color yellow symbolizes glory and royalty. Yellow is also the color of the Earth element, the element of growth and prosperity in the Vietnamese Five Basic Elements system.

Is it true that when visiting someone’s house during Tet, bringing oranges is good because oranges represent good luck?

This is a tricky one. When it comes to oranges, Vietnamese are divided in opinions. To northern Vietnamese, oranges are considered lucky due to their bright color and its root name being similar to the Han Viet word for “gold”. If you are visiting a family in northern Vietnam, oranges make for a nice Tet gift as long as they are not given in bunches of four as four sounds similar to the Han Viet word for “death”.

To southerners, however, oranges can be seen as a sign of bad luck because of the proverb “Quyt lam cam chiu” (‘The oranges

take the fall for the mandarin’s crime”). Watermelons with red flesh make for better Tet gifts when visiting homes in the south.

what are some other dos and don’ts on the first day of Tet?

Dos and don’ts around and during Tet all revolve around one simple principle: protect your fortunes and ward off all misfortunes.

Don’t: - Lend or borrow money.- Lend or borrow anything period - especially if the items are red, as this is seen as taking or giving away luck. - Decline food or drink when visiting a Vietnamese family. Even if you are full, eat or drink something, even in small amounts. - Wear white or black. Both are colors of mourning in Vietnam.- Eat prawns, dog, dory fish, squid or duck. Some people think ducks are stupid and the dark ink from squid is seen as dirty. Similarly, don’t offer a Vietnamese any of these food items as they are seen as unlucky during Tet. - Argue, fight, gossip, badmouth others or create disputes of any kind.

Do: - Wear new clothes on the first day of Tet. New things are lucky. - Wear bold, happy colors.- Forgive past disputes. Tet is a very popular time for Vietnamese to make peace with each other since it is seen as the time to clean out all ‘old hurts’ and turn over a new leaf. During this time, even lifelong enemies are willing to (temporarily) set aside their grievances for the joyous occasion.

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“EAT SWEET THINGS and think sweet thoughts to ensure a fabulous year lies ahead” is a popular Vietnamese adage that locals live by, especially during Tet. Visit any Vietnamese home during the holiday and a colorful tray full of candies sits in the middle of the living room table. The candy trays are also used as offerings at the altars to ancestors and deities, little snacks for children, tea confections for adults and vegan treats for those who refrain from eating meat at the year’s beginning. These candied fruits are unique to Tet but despite its ubiquity, the mứt tết can look a little confusing between the dusty swirls, wrapped colored sticks and miniature dried fruits.

A mứt tết tray consists of candied fruits, candied vegetables, custard candy, seeds of different varieties and candied nuts. Generally, preparation for each mứt tết candy is similar and simple. Fruits and vegetables, like coconut and ginger, are boiled, quickly preserved, and

cooked with oil and sweetening agents such as pectin, sugar and honey – sometimes all three ingredients.

Mứt can be divided into two types: wet and dry. Visit any beef jerky (khô bò) and salted plums (xí muội) stalls at any market during the holiday and you’ll see a swarm of mứt in glass jars, the wet kinds wrapped in crunchy paper and the dry kind laying bare. The two most common wet mứt are tamarind (me) and soursop (mãng cầu). The former is kept in its scrawny form, with a few rope-like fibrous strings along the fruit’s length, which is to be discarded when eating, of course. Tamarind mứt should be amber brown, chewy, and a little more sour than sweet. Tamarind is notorious for its medicinal effect, so be careful not to consume too many sticks at once. A similar chewy wet mứt is the soursop, but it’s always milkish white, doesn’t retain the fruit’s shape, and people tend to put too much sugar

in the churning process.On the dry side you can find some 20

common kinds, spanning both fruits and non-fruits (nuts and roots): coconut, persimmon, lotus seed, tomato, sliced ginger, carrot, winter melon, apple, lemon, guava, water chestnut, etc. I’m particularly fond of the crunchy, aromatic coconut ribbons which as a kid I liked to hold in my mouth for hours to melt off all but the coconut itself; but this year I refrained from buying them to try the other kinds instead.

If you don't want to look confused the next time you're in a Vietnamese house, we've got you covered, from the candied coconut to the sugar-glazed peanuts.

Candied VeggiesSweet Potato, Ginger, Potato

Combining veggies with sugar sounds like an

How Sweet It Is...a guIde To The LuNar New Year CaNdY TraY

Text by nancy Bao images by ngoc Tran

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awful idea, but when boiled and cooked with sweetening agents, the end products are pretty damn good. Among the entire tray, the candied veggies offer the greatest elements of surprise. Candied sweet potatoes are sweet potatoes that are even sweeter than sweet. Candied ginger actually makes ginger look really good. And, in the case of candied potatoes, we get to witness potatoes trying real hard to become sweet potatoes.

Candied NutsPeanuts, Water Chestnuts

Unlike candied vegetables, candied nuts offer the least elements of surprise: they are just as good as they sound. Sugar-glazed peanuts, which taste a lot like Cracker Jack, are blocks of peanuts bonded together with sugar. Candied water chestnuts are similar to candied fruits and vegetables, except that when you bite into them, you get a softer, moister texture.

Custard CandyTamarind Candy, Custard Apple

Custard tamarind candy and custard apple candy are sweet, chewy candies with a consistency similar to Gushers. Each custard candy tastes respectively close to the fruits they were made with. Unwrap a custard candy and you will notice immediately that they're bodiless: without their wrappers, they're so gushy they lose form. But that's all part of the fun. Be careful, because they can be kind of sticky. But they're oh so good.

Candied FruitsCoconut, Flower-Shaped Candied Kumquat

Candied coconut comes in white, light green and light pink varieties and tastes like dried, sweetened coconut (surprise!). The candied kumquat, on the other hand, is simultaneously bitter and sweet, with a tart-citrusy flavor

and hints of sugar from the coating. Candied kumquat is usually shaped into a flower for Tet, reflecting the traditional usage of flowers as decoration for the New Year.

seedsCandied Lotus Seeds, Melon Seeds, Pumpkin Seeds

It may be because seeds represent growth that they make an appearance in mứt tết. Whatever the significance though, one thing is for sure: start with one or two and you will be addicted soon enough. Both melon seeds and pumpkin seeds taste like you would expect, but candied lotus seeds, because of their texture and coats of sugar, taste more like a candied fruit or vegetable than anything else.

To even out the sweetness, take mứt tết with either black or green tea.

Chúc mừng năm mới and happy eating!

“Eat sweet things and think sweet thoughts to ensure a

fabulous year l ies ahead”

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WINE COLuMNc h E E r s !

Alfredo de la casa has been organizing wine tastings for over 20 years, published three wine books, including the

Gourmand award winner for best wine education book. You can reach him at www.wineinvietnam.com.

The sweet stuffunderstanding sherry wines

SHERRY IS AN Anglicization that comes from the name of the Spanish city of “Jerez de la Frontera,” which is how these wines are named in Spain. Sherry is produced in a very small region of southern Spain. Sherry is considered a fortified wine, meaning it is stronger in alcohol volume than normal grape wines, because as part of the production process alcohol is added to the must (“must” is the juice from crushed grapes, usually before it has been fermented or while it is fermenting; once fully fermented, must becomes wine) to increase the alcohol level, originally as a means to preserve the wine.

Essential to the production of sherry is the growth of a layer of film forming yeast on the top of the wine. This is known as the flor, and it forms spontaneously from yeast that is abundant in the winery environment when the casks are left not completely filled. The growth of the flor protects the developing wine from oxidation and contributes a distinctive flavor to the wine through metabolizing alcohol to the nutty, distinctive organic acetaldehyde scent and

taste compounds. To keep the flor healthy, casks are periodically topped up with fresh wine to maintain the nutrients that the yeast needs to survive.

At the end of the year when fermentation is complete and the wine is still on its lees, it is classified and then fortified. This classification determines the destiny of the wine. The oenologist will taste through the casks with a view to separating out the lighter, more elegant wines to become fino, and the heavier, darker wines to become olorosos. Fino wines will then be fortified to 15 º alcohol, and olorosos to 17 or 18 º.

There are many ways to skin a cat, and there are many ways to classify sherry wines, so I will give you the most common classification: Generosos and Generoso Liqueur wines. The former is most common in Spain and offers the more interesting wines while Generoso Liqueur is more often seen in the UK, and is the extra sweet wine that your grandma might love.

Also important to the flavor of sherry is the solera system. This is a rather complex

arrangement of barrels where wine travels from one to another in a precise order during its maturation and aging. Thelowest level of butts is known as the solera, which is the name also used for the entire system. This is the final stage in the maturation process and this is where the wine leaves the system. Up to one third of the wine may be withdrawn each yearfrom these barrels, but the amounttypically taken is just 10 percent.

Fino and Manzanilla are the mostdelicate types of sherries and should be drunk soon after opening. Amontillados and Olorosos will keep for longer, while sweeter versions such as PX and blended cream sherries are able to last several weeks or even months after opening,since the sugar content acts asa preservative.

In Vietnam you can enjoy sherry wines in restaurants like Shri and Lubu, or you can buy your own bottles at The Warehouse and Red Apron. My favorite so far is Armada from Sandeman - it is absolutely gorgeous.

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Wine & DineIMAGE BY Ngoc TrAN

Wood baked mac and cheese; Buttermilk corn bread; Mexican street corn; and Caesar Salad

Zombie BBQ

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r E s T A u r A N T r E V I E W

To Die forZombie BBQ emerges as Saigon’s newest

American BBQ joint

TEXT by JAMEs PhAM IMAGEs by NGoc TrAN

ZOMBIES ARE SO hot right now. Nicholas Hoult played a sexy one in Warm Bodies. Brad Pitt scrambled for a cure in World War Z. And The Walking Dead garnered 17.3 million viewers for its latest season premiere, making it the most-watched drama series telecast in US basic cable history. So it probably shouldn’t come as a surprise that Saigon carnivores are chomping at the bit over the opening of Zombie BBQ (4 Thao Dien, D2, also soon to be on vietnammm.com), the latest endeavor by chef and restaurateur Geoffrey Deetz.

Set in an expansive villa with a huge courtyard for outdoor seating hidden behind an exterior wall on busy Thao Dien, the smell of grilled meats, the sparkling lights and the low-key background music transports diners to Anytown, USA. Deetz, who has

something of a penchant for the macabre (his other restaurant is HCMC mainstay, Black Cat) is trying to reanimate the restaurant graveyard that has been 4 Thao Dien which in former lives has been a tapas place, a French restaurant, and most recently McSorley’s Ale House (who are still manning the bar). With the recent openings of other successful BBQ joints around town, Deetz is betting that this is the right time and place for unpretentious American BBQ in D2.

“There’s been an explosion of businesses in Thao Dien,” he says, “but not many are addressing everyday working families going out to eat. BBQ brings people together. This is a place to go after work and grab a beer and enjoy good American BBQ.” Deetz also theorizes that the internet has brought food trends to Vietnam much faster now, meaning

people are ready to try new things. “Ten years ago, you’d have to wait five to six years before people would even try something new, but with social media taking off, people have heard of things like fried okra and fried pickles and they want to try it. That gives me the ability to put new and exciting things on the menu. It’s great living in a city with a food culture that has matured to an international level.”

Deetz is looking to parlay his 30-plus years of cooking experience, 14 of those in Vietnam partnering or consulting in over 20 restaurants, into another winning concept. That kitchen experience together with his long-standing network of suppliers means that diners benefit from culinary windfalls ― a case of Sriracha gets made into a Los Angeles chili sauce and 50 kgs of jalapeños from Dalat gets smoked for chipotle, jalapeño sate or stuffed with bacon, onions and cream cheese for poppers. “We have the experience, space and sources to really listen to what our customers want. I’m going to bring in peri peri from Portugal, then go off to Hawaii to do a kalua pig before heading to Jamaica for a jerk chicken. New American BBQ is embracing all those BBQ trends around the world,” says Deetz.

Eat your heart outPlaying off the zombie theme, Zombie BBQ’s cheeky menu tells a story. Starters are listed under “In the Beginning There Was.” Our Beer-battered Onion Rings (VND75,000) were crunchy goodness, dusted with sea salt that had been smoked for four hours. In keeping with the Southern motto that deep-frying makes everything better, the Fried Dill Pickles (VND35,000) were zesty and sweet, freshly made on site before getting breaded and, of course, deep fried.

While zombies aren’t known for gnawing on salad, there is a Grounds Keeper section of the menu for vegetable side dishes, except these are wonderfully and unapologetically the kind that the reanimated would go for. Case in point, the Caesar Salad (VND50,000) replaces croutons, chicken and bacon with straight up fried pork skins. Other sides include a hearty Wood-baked Mac and Cheese (VND50,000), each individually cooked in its own clay pot, sealing in the rich cheesiness, and Buttermilk Corn Bread (VND30,000), finished on the grill and slathered with sweet butter and honey. The menu even ventures south of the border with Mexican Street Corn (VND30,000) served up with dollops of tapatio hot sauce and sour cream.

If you’ve made it to the mains with your heart and arteries intact, expect more of the same, keeping true to the way people cook in the South ― meat-heavy with few vegetables. “Out of the Ashes” features ribs and chicken smoked over beech, a mild wood that imparts a delicate smoke flavor. The “to die for” ribs (VND230,000 for a 400g

ToP: Caesar saladBoTToM: Mexican street corn; Buttermilk corn bread; and Wood-baked mac and cheese

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half rack, VND460,000 for a full rack) are exceptionally meaty, coming off the bone clean but still with a little bounce to it. BBQ sauce is applied to the meat while it smokes, so expect some caramelization as the sugars burn off. There are six BBQ sauces to choose from, including sugar-free and the “flame thrower.” Our ribs were slathered in Kansas City sauce, a tangy combination of coriander seed, chili powder, paprika, Mexican spices and cumin and served with a side of giardiniera, a host of pickled vegetables to cut through the richness, including sweet dill pickles, pickled watermelon rind, lotus root and carrots. Zombie’s BBQ philosophy is to marinate the meat for 24-36 hours before smoking for another seven to eight hours in the case of ribs and two to three hours for chicken. Our Half Chicken (VND288,000) was juicy from soaking in a brine of brown sugar, salt and Mexican spices before being smoked with a glaze of sweet and sour Hawaiian sauce, drawing its flavor from pineapple, soya sauce and ginger.

While zombie movies rarely have asweet ending, here they do. We heartily embraced a decadent death with the very rich, very sweet Rice Crispy S’mores (VND80,000), a campfire favorite of rice crispy treats smothered in chocolate sauce and marshmallows, finished on theopen grill.

Deetz’s concept with Zombie BBQ isto recreate the essence of Americancuisine ― big portions at reasonable pricesin an unpretentious setting where taste trumps calorie count. If this is how the ravenous undead are eating, bring on the zombie apocalypse!

FroM ToP: BBQ slow cooked pork ribs; Half Chicken; Rice Crispy S’mores

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f E A T u r E

NGO VAN NAM alley, which was once famous for its karaoke clubs designed for Japanese businessmen, has gradually redefined itself as a trendy destination with the addition of a French bistro, a rustic Vietnamese restaurant, a fusion eatery and, new to the scene, Lit Lounge (16 Ngo Van Nam, D1). With its vivid red interior, artsy decor and sleek style, Lit adds another dimension to this burgeoning nightlife spot.

Lit is the brainchild of an accountant, a banker and a gaming development/finance consultant - all expats. “This is basically a finance person’s idea of a lounge,” says investor and co-owner Vincent Petrancosta. “Just looking at how it turned out, you wouldn’t believe it, but this ground floor, right here, you know how Travis designed the layout for this floor? He did it on an Excel spreadsheet. Because he’s an accountant and that’s the one program he knew how to work

with.”“The concept of Lit is a space where

people can easily have conversations,” adds Travis Miller, investor, co-owner and aforementioned Excel spreadsheet designer. “The investors are all working professionals so when we get off work, we want a nice place where we can sit down, have a drink, have nice conversations with some friends without having to yell over the loud music.”

Travis also cites the classic bar experience he grew up with as the inspiration and goal of Lit. “A bar or a lounge is a place where you can share space with absolute strangers, strike up conversations and perhaps make a friend. It’s not really like this here in Vietnam where people tend to sit at a table and close their group off to outsiders. We want Lit to be something similar to that classic bar experience. We want it to be open enough so that strangers would feel comfortable enough

light up the NightMeet the minds behind the latest late-night lounge in Saigon

TEXT by NPD KhANh IMAGEs by NGoc TrAN

“A place where you can share space

with absolute strangers, strike up

conversations and perhaps make

a friend...”

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to talk to each other, but also closed enough that people don’t have to feel like their privacy is being invaded.”

Luxurious but still cozy, Lit has two floors, each with its own distinct vibe. The bar and plush seating on the ground floor provide plenty of space for lounge goers who prefer ample conversations with friends and a quieter atmosphere. The first floor, on the other hand, is a much more vibrant space with a designated dance floor, DJs and club style seating.

What does the name lit mean?

Travis: I’ve always thought a bar or lounge name should be simple, a one syllable word that you can pronounce and remember easily. Lit is a name that I’ve been thinking about for 10 years. Here, it means ‘lit up’ but not like neon lights or electric bulbs, more like

‘candlelit.’

It must have been difficult for a team of finance people with zero experience in catering to open a lounge?

Travis: It has been a learning experience, yes. We had a beach bar down in Vung Tau named Haven but, of course, it doesn’t compare to an upscale lounge in downtown Saigon. Recently we had an addition to our team. His name is Truc. He’s Vietnamese, a veteran in the catering industry and he has been an invaluable help to us.

Did you have any problems setting up the bar and opening it?

Travis: The paperwork was actually the easiest part. It’s the perk of an almost all finance professional team. We know our

paperwork. The difficult part is our lack of experience and contacts in the catering industry, like where to find amazing mixers, bartenders or DJs who can rile the crowd. Little things like that are a lot more difficult than people realize.

you put the open time from 5pm to late. how late are we talking about here?

Travis: Late. It differs on days. We have opened as late as five or six in the morning without problem. If we still have guests in house, we remain open.

have you run into problems staying open so late?

Travis: Amazingly enough, no. As to the reason why we haven’t had problems, I think it has to do with how we run this place. We are on the mindset that we don’t want to make any trouble and we hope no trouble finds us. We don’t make loud music that disturbs the neighbors. We don’t let our waitresses run around the neighborhood. We don’t create disturbances, period. When we were running construction in here we gave free drinks to our neighbors as an apology for the noise and dust we caused. We have basically been the nice guys around the neighborhood.

how and why did you decide on the different vibes upstairs and downstairs for lit?

Travis: One of the initial concerns we had regarding Lit is that we’d focus too much on what works for us to the expense of other things. The different vibes we had for the two floors is our solution to that. Downstairs is what works for us and people who like the same atmosphere we do. Upstairs is more rowdy, probably more fun, and more like the mainstream of the lounge scene in Saigon without detracting too much from the Lit identity. If you want music and dancing you go upstairs. If you want relax time and conversation, you go downstairs.

Do you have anything interesting planned for lit in the near future?

Travis: Of course! The idea with Lit is that we want to try out many different things. Vincent has been talking forever about having a neighborhood event and build up the ‘Ngo Van Nam’ street brand, kind of like Pham Ngu Lao. Everybody knows Pham Ngu Lao and what to expect when they go there. We want to make Ngo Van Nam into the street people go to when they don’t want to go to Pham Ngu Lao, like a prettier, cleaner, classier cousin. This street has many great places. There are a couple of wine bars at the beginning of the street, a couple of restaurants. We can cordon this part of the block off and make it a fun event. You can walk in, pick up your wine at Le Rendezvous, have your dinner at Urban Kitchen, and when you’re down for some late night dancing or conversation, head to Lit.

Travis Miller

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Wine & DineThe list

cavern PubStylish venue in one of the classier inner-city locales, Cavern entertains locals and expats alike with a live band every night, sports channels on a large TV screen, and a great atmosphere. Happy hour is from 6pm to9:30pm (buy 2 beers – get 1 free). Live music is from 9.30pm-1am.19 Dong Du, D1090 826 5691

BArS

Ice blue bara small, atmospheric, emphatically english-style pub, ice blue is a popular meeting place for Ho Chi minh City’s expats with reasonably priced drinks, friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere. Great place to play darts. 54 Dong Khoi, D1

blanchy’s TashUndoubtedly the hippest, coolest nightspot in downtown Ho Chi minh, renowned for its cool house music, live DJs at weekends and innovative range of cocktails. Downstairs is a trendy bar where the glitterazi like to be seen; rooftop an open bar with more chilled style music. in between a new Vietnamese dining concept. 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1090 902 82 93www.blanchystash.com

last callSaigon's king of cool, Last Call is renowned for the finest cocktails in the mellowest of settings. Slink your way back to the Seventies in the velvety interior or watch over the passing crowds from the laid-back terrace. Funky (and even sexy) to the core, this classy establishment is fittingly close to the Sheraton.59 Dong Du, D13823 3122

The fan clubThe largest sports bar in Saigon, with all the live sports available on 12 large HD screens, an exciting place to watch your team win! a great selection of food & beverage. We also have a enclosed relaxing garden for the family.The vista, 628c Hanoi Highway, An Phu, D2www.dtdentertainment.comFacebook: The Fan club

lIT loungeLiT Lounge, a new upscale late night spot, has opened in the increasingly hip Ngo Van Nam strip, off Le Thanh Ton. LiT Lounge promises a wide array of affordable cocktails served on two floors, each with its own distinctive vibe. It’s a “hidden gem” with a luxurious, cozy feel, modern decor and tasty finger food. It opens at 5pm Monday to Saturday, closing at 2am monday to Thursday, even later on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays.16 Ngo van Nam, D1 www.litsaigon.com

chill skybarOffers the most stunning panoramic views of Saigon and a wide range of wines and cocktails personally prepared by Vietnam mixologist Le Thanh Tung.rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D13827 2372www.chillsaigon.com

Game onOpened in July 2013, Game On is one of Saigon’s biggest sports bar, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bar also has an extensive drinks menu including coffees, juices, beers, wines, vodkas, and more. game On also boasts a function room for corporate meetings or private parties.115 Ho Tung Mau, D16251 [email protected]

Also Try... Monkey bara new open air, but well cooled bar in the heart of bui Vien on the site of the once popular Stellar cafe. a cut above the regular backpacker haunts in style and offer. Downstairs is a modern bar with flat screen TVs showing sports, a huge circular bar and tables, and outdoor seating for people watching. Upstairs are air conditioned rooms, pool table and outdoor deck. Serves a wide variety of liquors, including wines by the glass or bottle.119 Bui vien, D1

The observatoryin just a year, this funky, cosy bar and gallery set in a French villa has become the centre of the city’s underground dance music culture. Downstairs is a cosy bar serving cocktails, beer and wines, upstairs a gallery space and a separate dance venue with regular guest

appearances from DJs from Asia and beyond. Open daily from 6pm til late (5am close Saturday and Sunday mornings).5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4www.theobservatory-hcmc.com

onTop barLocated on the 20th floor of Novotel Saigon Center, onTop bar provides views over Saigon from an expansive outdoor terrace. The venue offers a menu with over 20 cheeses, cured meats and both Vietnamese and international-inspired tapas. 167 Hai Ba Trung, D33822 4866

red barRED offers one of the longest Happy Hours in Saigon, from 9am - 9pm, with live music available from monday-Saturday. This multi-level bar has a non-smoking floor and

a function room along with a top quality pool table and soft-tip dart machines. a menu of eastern and Western dishes includes wood-fired pizzas.70-72 Ng Duc Ke, D12229 7017

saigon saigon bar This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the lights of the city and relax with friends. Live entertainment nightly, including their resident Cuban band, Q’vans from 9pm Wednesday to monday.Rooftop, 9th floor, 19-23 Lam Son Square, D13823 499911am till latecaravellehotel.com

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hatvalaThis teahouse, coffee shop and restaurant offers selected, quality Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink or buy as leaves and beans. They also have a delightful all-day casual dining area in a stylish bistro.44 Nguyen Hue, D13824 15348am - [email protected] facebook.com/hatvala

café ruNamNo disappointments from this earnest local cafe consistently serving exceptional international standard coffee. Beautifully-styled and focussed on an attention to quality, Cafe RuNam is now embarking on the road to becoming a successful franchise. The venue's first floor is particularly enchanting in the late evening.96 Mac Thi Buoi, D13825 8883www.caferunam.com

The libraryThe Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the heart of Saigon Ground floor – InterContinental Asiana Saigoncorner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan3520 9099www.intercontinental.com/saigon

cAFéS

Guanabana smoothiesThis Californian smoothie bar specializes in healthy all-natural smoothies using fresh fruits and vegetables from locally-sourced farms, with no condensed milk or artificial sweeteners added. Their smoothies can be enhanced with nutritional supplements such as green superfood, whey protein, and spirulina.best sellers include their Special blends and veggie smoothies. Fresh roasted coffee, hot panini’s and pastries are also available, along with speedy Wi-Fi.23 Ly Tu Trong, Q10909 824 830www.guanabanasmoothies.com

AQ coffeePleasing colonial-style café permanently filled with the aroma of fresh coffee roasted with traditional methods, with a shady courtyard and quiet, peaceful atmosphere. Situated in one of the city’s oldest mansions.32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D33829 8344

caffe benea brand new cafe in the heart of District 1, marking the debut of a Korean coffee and dessert concept in Vietnam. When it opened queues stretched out the door with locals and expats alike eager to try the unique offer of European style coffee, blended drinks and sweet, creamy dessert and cakes. modern, industrial designed interior spanning two floors, and with a corner site street frontage which cannot be missed!58 Dong Khoi, D13822 4012caffebenevietnam.com

ciao caféThere's rarely a tourist who's been through inner-city Saigon and hasn't stopped in on the super-friendly-looking Ciao Café. it stands up well as an expat mainstay too, with its fashionable décor that varies from floor to floor and its

classic selection of Western cafe and bistro favorites.74-76 Nguyen Hue, D13823 1130

l’usineL’Usine is a retail, café and gallery space occupying two locations in the center of D1. its retail space is dedicated to Vietnamese designers and more established brands from abroad as well as stocking a wide range of stationery and homeware items. The café in both locations serves international fare and a range of pastries and the ever-popular sweet & sour cupcakes.151/1 Dong Khoi, D170B Le Loi, D1www.lusinespace.tumblr.com9am – 9pm

lightbox cafeThis stunningly designed cafe also doubles as an event and photography studio, so make sure you dress to impress at this location because you never know who might snap your picture. They also serve vegetarian cuisine with prices ranging between VND300,000 - VND500,000179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan3517 6668www.lightbox.vn

Also Try...

Vecchio cafea self-styled Little italy that does a good job of looking the part, this venue’s interior features ornate italian décor, dim lighting, and antique furniture enhanced by Italian music. Offerings include fine meals, delicious gelato and beverages.39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D36683 8618

The WorkshopA great find, this New York loft-style venue is hidden away up a couple of flights of stairs and well worth seeking out. Spacious and airy with lots of natural light, the central coffee bar offers an exquisite gourmet selection. Superb for setting up your laptop and getting some work done over great coffee.27 Ngo Duc Ke, D13824 6801 / 3824 68027am-8pm

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DynastyNew World's own slice of Canton with a particularly fine Dim Sum selection, Dynasty is a traditional lavishly-styled Chinese venue with flawless design. Authenticity and a sense of old-world China make this one of Saigon's more refined options for the cuisine. A number of private rooms are available.New World Hotel76 Le Lai, D13822 8888www.saigon.newworldhotels.com

KabinDine Cantonese-style by the river at the Renaissance Riverside’s own Chinese venue decked out with flourishes reminiscent of classical Qing period tastes. Kabin’s cuisine is known for presenting new takes on traditional dishes as well as for its more exotic fare.renaissance riverside Hotel,8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D13822 0033

Dragon courtThe well-heeled Chinese certainly go for luxury and this venue has it in spades. Situated in a classy location just opposite the Opera House, Dragon Court features a broad selection of dishes from across the spectrum of mainland cuisines, making this an ideal a-la-carte venue as well as the perfect spot for Dim Sum.11-13 Lam Son Square, D13827 2566

cHINESE

Ming courtThe best in Chinese cuisine with a unique Taiwanese focus in a Japanese hotel, Ming Court is classy in its precision and graceful without compromise. it’s certainly one of the city’s most impressive venues for fans of the cuisine, and nothing is left to chance with the venue’s signature exemplary service standards.3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel235 Nguyen van cu, D13925 7777

Ming Dynastyming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese food in a setting reminiscent of an old Chinese palace. Specialties include dim sum, abalone and dishes from guangdong.23 Nguyen Khac vien, D7

li baiThoroughly traditional Chinese venue at the Sheraton Hotel and Towers offering choice oriental delicacies against a backdrop of fine Chinese art. This opulent venue, open throughout the day, is one of the city’s more beautiful restaurants in this category.Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D13827 2828www.libaisaigon.com

hung Ky Mi Giaan old mainstay on the Chinese cuisine trail with well over a decade in operation, Hung Ky mi gia is known for its classic mainland dishes with a focus on delicious roasts. Safe and tasty Chinese food. 20 Le Anh Xuan, D13822 2673

ocean Palacea place for those who love Chinese food. The large dining room on the ground floor can accommodate up to 280 diners. Up on the first floor are six private rooms and a big ballroom

that can host 350 guests.2 Le Duan Street, D13911 8822

seven Wonders (bay Ky Quan)The brainchild of an overseas Chinese/Vietnamese architect who wanted to build something extraordinary in his home town, this venue combines the architectural features of seven world heritage structures blended into one. The cuisine is just as eclectic with representative dishes from several major Chinese traditions.

12 Duong 26, D63755 1577www.7kyquan.com

shang PalaceRenowned as one of the finest restaurants in the city, Shang Palace boasts mouth-watering Cantonese and Hong Kong cuisine served in a warm and elegant atmosphere. Whether it be an intimate dinner for two or a larger group event, Shang Palace can cater for three-hundred guests including private ViP rooms. With more than fifty Dim-Sum items and over two-hundred delectable

Also Try...dishes to choose from, Shang Palace is an ideal rendezvous for any dining occasion.1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D13823 2221

yu chuyu Chu is renowned for the quality and presentation of its authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisines along with its elegant décor. Watching the chefs prepare signature dishes such as hand-pulled noodle, Dim Sum and Peking Duck right in the kitchen is a prominent, popular feature.First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon (corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan)3520 9099www.intercontinental.com/saigon

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la habanaCuban venue with fine Spanish cuisine, Cuban cigars and german beer. a wide range of tapas and cocktails. great bar atmosphere and late night entertainment.6 cao Ba Quat, D1www.lahabana-saigon.com

oléWith all the warmth you’d expect from a decent venue in this category, Olé serves authentic and tasty Spanish favorites with great tapas and highly-recommended paella. Family-run venue with a passion for great food and good service without undue fuss. Feel at home.129B Le Thanh Ton, D1012 6529 1711

SPANISH

PacharanHo Chi minh City's original Spanish restaurant, Pacharan occupies a high profile corner spot on Hai Ba Trung. Spread over four floors, it offers a casual bar, two floors of dining (one which becomes a destination for live Spanish music late at night) and a rooftop terrace. Features an extensive menu of tapas, main courses, sangria and wines.97 Hai Ba Trung Street, D1090 399 25 39

Tapas saigonTasty tapas at Vietnamese prices not far from the center of District 1. Fresh ingredients, broad menu with food prepared by a Spanish chef. best washed down with authentic house sangria. 53/26B Tran Khanh Du, D1090 930 0803

VIVA! Tapas bar & GrillViVa! Tapas bar & grill only uses the freshest ingredients, many imported from Spain, for the most authentic tapas experience in Saigon, starting from under VND50,000/plate. Cool décor, indoors and outdoors eating areas, a well stocked bar, and great wines from VND60,000/glass (sangria just VND130,000 per HaLF liter). Delivery available.90 cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7, HcMc08 5410 6721Facebook: “vIvATapasBar.PMH”

Baba's Kitchen164 Bui Vien, District 1

49D Xa Lo Hanoi, District 2Phone: 083-838-6661 & 083-838-6662

Open 11am to 11pmNorth & South Indian food

Halal & vegetarian dishesOf course we can cater!

order online at vietnammm.com & eat.vn"Baba brings India to Vietnam"

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la creperieThe first authentic Breton French restaurant in the country, serving savory galettes, sweet crepes with tasty seafood and some of the best apple cider in Saigon.17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D13824 [email protected]

la fourchetteSmall and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite among the French expat community. The vintage posters and wood paneling add to the charm of this French eatery located right in downtown, a stone’s throw from the Saigon River.9 Ngo Duc Ke, D13829 8143www.lafourchette.com.vn

Augustinaugustin is a romantic and charming French restaurant located just steps away from the Rex Hotel. Serves lunches and dinners and offers 10 percent discount on a la carte menu items.10D Nguyen Thiep, D1www.augustinrestaurant.com

FrENcH

le bacoulosLe bacoulos is a French restaurant, bar and lounge that serves French cuisine, bar food like burgers, fish and chips alongside vegetarian options like spinach soup and greek salad. There’s also a garden to unwind in with a glass of wine or enjoy a game of pool. 13 Tong Huu Dinh, D23519 4058www.bacoulos.com

le Jardina gorgeous enclosed garden space that allows eaters to follow the example of the French colonists of a century ago and pretend they're actually in Paris. Whether dining outside under the shaded terrace or within the old, warmly-lit villa, the cuisine, decor, and general mood of the place is like a Stargate direct to France.31D Thai van Lung, D13825 8465

le rendez-vous de saigonA wine bistro offering a warm and friendly atmosphere. Unwind either in their stylish downstairs bar, or lounge on cozy leather seating in the upstairs section with a balcony overlooking a courtyard in analley. The venue offers a tasty selection of wines from France to South africa and a delectable menu of French cuisine. 9A Ngo van Nam, D1www.lerendezvousdesaigon.com6291 0396

Also Try...

l'essentiel L’essentiel offers a quiet intimate dining experience with space for private functions and alfresco dining on an upper floor. The food is fresh, traditional French, and the wine list is carefully collated.98 Ho Tung Mau, D10948 415 646

la cuisinea cosy restaurant just outside the main eating strip on Le Thanh Ton, La Cuisine offers quality French food in an upmarket but not overly expensive setting. Suitable for special occasions or business dinners to impress. Regular diners recommend the filet of beef.48 Le Thanh Ton2229 8882

la Nicoisea traditional ‘neighbourhood’ French restaurant, La Nicoise serves simple, filling French fare at exceptional value in the shadow of the bitexco tower. most popular for its steak dishes, the restaurant has an extensive menu which belies its compact size.56 Ngo Duc Ke, D13821 3056

la VillaHoused in a stunning white French villa that was originally built as a private house, La Villa features outdoor tables dotted around a swimming pool and a more formal dining room inside. Superb cuisine, with staff trained as they would be in France. bookings are advised, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings.14 Ngo Quang Huy, D23898 2082www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn

le bouchon de saigonDelightful, welcoming French bistro that really puts on a show of fine quality and service. With its small-village atmosphere and exotic cuisine, this is one of the more atmospheric and high-aiming venues of the genre.40 Thai van Lung, D1www.lebouchondesaigon.com

Trois Gourmands Opened in 2004 and regarded as one of the finest French restaurants in town. Owner gils, a French native, makes his own cheeses as well. 18 Tong Huu Dinh, D23744 4585

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baba’s KitchenOne of Saigon’s best-loved indian venues, baba’s is dedicated to authenticity in its cuisine and fair prices. Tell them exactly what spice level you want and they’ll cater to your tastes – from the mildest of butter chickens to the most volcanic vindaloo. always friendly.164 Bui vien, D149D Xa Lo Hanoi, D23838 6661

Ganeshganesh serves authentic northern indian tandooris and rotis along with the hottest curries, dovas and vada from the southern region.38 Hai Ba Trung, D18223 0173www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com

bollywoodKnown for its complete North & South indian cuisine, bollywood’s specialty is its special chaat & tandoori dishes. Parties, events & catering services are available, with daily lunch tiffin and set menus. Free delivery in Phu my Hung. Complete menu on Facebook.2213 1481 | 2245 0096 | 093 806 9433Hotline: 0906357442 (English)[email protected]: bollywoodvietnamindiancuisine

INDIAN

saigon IndianSaigon’s original indian eatery is still going strong, located in a bright, roomy upstairs venue in the heart of District 1. Authentic Indian cuisine at affordable prices; functions a specialty.1st Floor, 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1

Ashokaa small chain of slightly more upscale indian restaurants serving both Northern and Southern indian cuisine including curries, naan and tandooris.Ashoka I17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D108 3823 1372Ashoka II33 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, D208 3744 4144

Also Try...bombay Indian restaurantWith its nice, central location and a very relaxed dining area and home-style atmosphere, bombay is a superbly casual venue well-reputed for its authentic indian cuisine and Halal cooking.250 Bui vien, D1,9am - 10.30pm

curry leaf a new restaurant in District 7, specialising in southern and northern indian cuisine, which grew from the now closed indus of D1. Fish, meat and vegetable dishes are cooked fresh in tandoor ovens with a commitment to authenticity. Boasts 20 different breads baked daily and six home made chutneys.62 Hung gia 5, D7curryleafvietnam.com

The Punjabibest known for its excellent tandoori cooking executed in a specialized, custom-built oven, Punjabi serves the best of genuine North indian cuisine in a venue well within the backpacker enclave, ensuring forgiving menu prices.40/3 Bui vien, D13508 3777

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ciao bella oi’s PickHearty homestyle italian food served with flair and excellent service. an extensive menu is complemented with daily specials. arriving guests are greeted with a free glass of Prosecco. Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs or on the ground floor for people-watching. Big groups should book in advance.11 Dong Du, D13822 [email protected]. saigonrestaurantgroup.com/ciao

ITALIAN

la bettolaChef/owner giuseppe amorello combines sleek decor with traditional home cooking in this two-story centrally-located italian eatery. expect creative dishes such as rucola e gamberi as well as La bettola that includes shaved porchetta, focaccia and homemade mozzarella. There’s a wood-burning oven on the premises and they try to hand-make all their ingredients. They also deliver.84 Ho Tung Mau, D13914 4402www.labettolasaigon.com

Da Vinci’sDa Vinci’s is an italian-american style pizzeria delivery offering pizzas, lasagna, spaghetti, calzones, salads and desserts. Their full menu is online at davincisvietnam.com. Free delivery to Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Phu my Hung. Open 11am - 10pm.call 083 943 4982 orSMS your order to 093 328 4624

la hostariaDesigned with an intimate atmosphere invoking something like an italian town, this venue focuses on traditional ethnic italian cuisine (rather than the ubiquitous pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful executive chef – straight out of Venice. The place lights up on romantic Thursday evenings with candlelight and light music.17B Le Thanh Ton, D13823 1080www.lahostaria.com

la cucinaLa Cucina has opened on Crescent Promenade in Phu my Hung, with an open-plan kitchen that can accommodate 180 diners. enjoy top-end dining featuring the best of italian cuisine and a wide selection of imported seafood, prepared from the freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic atmosphere with a wood-fired pizza oven at its heart.Block 07-08 cr1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D75413 7932

operaThe luxury Park Hyatt Saigon is home to Opera, an authentic italian dining experience open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Try their famous lasagna and tiramisu. Head chef marco Torre learned his craft in a number of Michelin-star restaurants throughout different regions of italy during a 14 year career. Dine on the deck alfresco or inside in air conditioned comfort.2 Lam Son Square, D1.

Also Try...

casa ItaliaFilling, hearty italian fare served with a smile in the heart of District 1. authentic pizza and a comprehensive range of pasta, pork, chicken and beef dishes offers something for everyone. Located a stone’s throw from ben Thanh market.86 Le Loi, D13824 4286

PendolascoOne of the original italian eateries in Ho Chi minh City, Pendolasco recently reinvented itself with a new chef and menu, and spurned a sister eatery in District 2. Set off the street in a peaceful garden with indoor and outdoor eating areas, separate bar and function area, it offers a wide-ranging Italian menu and monthly movie nights.87 Nguyen Hue, D13821 8181

Pizza 4P’sit’s too late to call this Saigon’s best-kept secret: the word is out. Wander up to the end of its little hem off Le Thanh Ton for the most unique pizza experience in the entire country – sublime italian pizza pies with a Japanese twist. Toppings like you wouldn’t imagine and a venue you’ll be glad you took the time to seek out.8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1012 0789 4444www.pizza4ps.com

PomodoroOften unfairly mistaken as a purely tourist dining destination, Pomodoro offers an extensive range of italian fare, especially seafood and beef dishes. The dining area is in a distinctively curved brick ‘tunnel’ opening into a large room at the rear, making it ideal for couples or groups.79 Hai Ba Trung3823 8998

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JAPANESE

blanchy street oi’s Pickinspired by London’s world-famous Nobu Restaurant, Blanchy Street’s Japanese/South american fusion cuisine represents modern dining at its best in the heart of downtown, a truly international dining experience in a trendy, modern and friendly setting. great sake and wine selection.74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D13823 8793www.blanchystreet.com11am - 10:30pm

Achaya caféAchaya Cafe has two floors providing a nice atmosphere for meetings, relaxation or parties. The menu is extensive with drinks and Western, Japanese, and Vietnamese food – from sandwiches, spaghetties, pizzas, steak and special Japanese sweet desserts.90 Le Loi, D1093 897 205011am - 10:30pm

MondeA Japanese whisky bar and grill serving some of the best Kobe beef in the city. The menu is Japanese with a european twist. The venue is celebrity bartender Hasegawa Harumasa’s first foray into Vietnam, styled after his flagship operation on Ginza’s fashionable whisky bar district in the heart of Tokyo. 7 bis Han Thuyen, D1

GyumaruGyumaru is a quintessentially minimalist Japanese dining experience rotating around the style of meat meal Westerners would be quick to link to a gourmet burger, but without the bread. Fresh, healthy, innovative cuisine in a relaxed, cozy environment and regular specials including quality steaks. 8/3 Le Thanh Ton3827 [email protected]

Ichiban sushiIchiban Sushi Vietnam serves fine sushi and signature drinks/cocktails in a lounge setting. Featuring one of the most eclectic Japanese menus in the city. The current Japanese venue to see and be seen in – everyone who’s anyone is there.204 Le Lai, D1www.ichibansushi.vn

EbisuServing neither sushi nor sashimi, ebisu’s menu instead focuses on a range of wholesome charcoal-grilled meals and on thick, white Japanese udon noodles – made from imported udon powder from australia – and presenting an overall rustic cuisine with a variety of good sakes.35bis Mac Dinh chi, D13822 [email protected]

Also Try...

of smaller, appetizing sides. SD04, Lo H29-2, My Phat residentialcomplex, D7

robata Dining AnThe restaurant has a downstairs bar and a second floor with private rooms that have sunken tables, sliding fusuma doors and tabletop barbecues. Popular with the Japanese expats, the menu serves up healthy appetizers, rolls, sashimi and an specialty dishes like deep fried chicken with garlic salt sauce an style.15c Le Thanh Ton, D1www.robata-an.com

sushi Dining AoiSushi Dining aoi is one such restaurant, where the whole atmosphere of the place evokes the best of the culture.

With its typical Japanese-style decor – the smooth earthen tones of the wooden furniture and surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the ViP rooms – it's possible to believe you're in a more elegant realm. 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D33930 0039www.sushidiningaoi.com

yoshinoThe decor is straight out of the set of Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats, stencilled cherry blossoms and all the trappings of Japanese exoticism – tastefully done. While Ho Chi minh City is certainly not short of fine Japanese eateries, this one is particularly impressive.2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D13823 3333

K cafe One of the larger Japanese restaurants in the city, this exemplary sushi venue is an ideal choice for business and friendly gatherings.74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D138245355www.yakatabune-saigon.com

chiisana hashiServes authentic Japanese cuisine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.river garden, 170 Nguyen van Huong, D26683 5308

osaka ramenThis sleek, open-kitchen contemporary eatery serves up Japanese noodles starting from VND78,000. There are also set menus, individual dishes and a range

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KorEAN

baan ThaiStylish modern restaurant with a superb bar, baan Thai serves authentic Thai cuisine with additional local and european twists. Friendly venue with large screen TVs for casual entertainment.55 Thao Dien, D23744 5453www.baanthai-anphu.com

Koh ThaiSupremely chic Thai venue with all the authentic burn you need – or without if you prefer. an opulent, fashionable decor with the cuisine to match – often reported to serve dishes comparable with those of Thailand itself.Kumho Link, Hai Ba Trung, D13823 4423

lac ThaiHidden away down a narrow alley in the heart of downtown this unique Thai restaurant boasts authentic flavours and surprising character. eat downstairs at tables in a cosy, themed environment - or be brave and climb the narrow

spiral staircase to the attic and crouch on cushions in true Thai style while attentive staff serve plates to share. 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi St. D13823 7506

Tuk Tuk Thai bistroKitch and authentic, Tuk Tuk brings the pleasure of street-style Thai food into an elegant but friendly setting. Now a fashionable venue in its own right, Tuk Tuk’s menu features some unique dishes and drinks you won’t see elsewhere.17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D13521 8513/ 090 688 6180

The racha room Brand new fine & funky Thai venue with kooky styling and a great attitude – and some of the most finely-presented signature Thai cuisine you’ll see in this city, much of it authentically spicy. Long Live the King! Reservations recommended.12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1090 879 14 12

THAI

Kang Nam GaAn exceptionally refined style of Korean BBQ fit out with high-tech smokeless racks, Kang Nam ga is fast becoming the Korean go-to venue for a wide-ranging and clean introduction to the cuisine. Delicious beef sets and the infamous and eminently popular ginseng chicken soup – all Kangnam style.6B Le Quy Don, D33933 [email protected]

lee choThe venue may be upscale, but the service and feel of this local-style Korean restaurant is very much down-to-earth. enjoy the pleasure of casual outdoor street-style Korean dining without worrying about the proper decorum for an international venue. great Korean dishes at good rates.48 Hung Phuoc 2, D75410 1086

Galbi brothersSuperb casual bbQ venue focusing on every foreigner’s favorite K-dish: galbi. Home of the only all-you-can-eat Korean bbQ in Saigon, gb is distinguished by its inexpensive lunch sets and unabashed enthusiasm for Korean spirits.r1–25 Hung Phuoc 4, Pham van Nghi – Bac, D75410 6210

Won’s cuisineOne of the city’s most important Korean venues – not for reasons of authenticity, but rather for straying from the norms. The restaurant’s proprietress has infused so much of her own quirky tastes into the menu she’s completely ignored the conventions of the cuisine, making Won’s a unique creation with an unforgettable taste. 49 Mac Thi Buoi3820 4085

seoul houseLong-standing venue serving Korean delicacies in this city for many years, Seoul House is simple on décor and strong on taste. Specializes mainly in Korean hotpot and grills.33 Mac Thi Buoi, D13829 4297

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STEAKHouSE

El GauchoHigh end steakhouse with fine American and Wagyu beef steaks along with traditional argentinian specialties. Outlets in Hanoi and bangkok too. expect to pay for the quality. Reservations recommended.74/1 Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe Ward, D1.5D Nguyen Sieu, D1unit cr1-12, The crescent, Phu My Hung, D7www.elgaucho.asia

Indabaindaba Steakhouse combines german style steak and Italian coffee under one roof. Expect fusion dishes like Indaba Spring Rolls, Mexican BBQ Spare Ribs, and grilled Duck breast served with sesame sauce, steamed rice and salad. 35 Ly Tu Trong, D13824 8280www.facebook.com/indabacafe

Au lac Do brazilAu Lac do Brazil is the very first authentic Brazilian Churrascaria in Vietnam, bringing a new dining concept - an “all you can eat” brazilian style bbQ where meat is brought to your table on skewers by a passador and served to your heart’s content.238 Pasteur, D33820 7157 | 090 947 8698www.aulacdobrazil.com

samba brazilian steakhouseServing the popular Brazilian buffet style, where enormous skewers of meat are circulated around the tables for diners to enjoy as much of as they can.10c Thai van Lung, D13822 0079

New york steakhouseNew York Steakhouse is definitely in the upmarket category and serves exclusive american imported beef dishes, with a whole range of steaks from rib eye, New york strip steak and tenderloin being popular options.25-27 Nguyen Dinh chieu, D1

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vIETNAMESE

frangipani hoa suFrangipani Hoa Su offers Vietnamese cuisine with a variety of dishes from different parts of Vietnam ranging from pho, bun bo Hue to mi quang. it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. it also has an open space and a ViP air-conditioned room together which can hold a maximum capacity of 500 people, making it an ideal venue for different types of events and functions.26 Le van Mien, [email protected]

com NieuFamous for its inclusion in the anthony bourdain No Reservations program, the venue is best known for its theatrics. every bowl of rice is served in a terracotta bowl that is unceremoniously shattered upon serving. Unforgettable local food in a very pleasant traditionally-styled venue.59 Ho Xuan Huong, D33932 [email protected]

Quan Na - Vegishousea Vietnamese vegetarian and vegan restaurant that uses the freshest ingredients to create dishes such as fresh spring rolls, sticky rice, curry specialties and coconut-based desserts. Decor is swathed in dark mahogany wood and red curtains. 796/7 Truong Sa, Ward 14, D3opening time: 10:30am-2pm; 5pm-9pm9526 2958Facebook: quanna.vegishouse

hoa TucRelaxing, airy indoor-outdoor venue serving gourmet-style local food. The ideal place to take visitors from abroad if you want to impress them with an authentic Vietnamese dining experience. Set in the refinery courtyard that formerly officially produced the region’s opium.74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D13825 1676

Papayabrightly-styled and perfectly lovely, this is a minimalist local venue with international appeal that features a menu designed by the former head chef of Hanoi’s Sofitel Metropole. Refined and distinguished without a hint of being stuck-up about it and very affordable.68 Pham viet chanh, Binh Thanh6258 [email protected]

Quan buiLeafy green roof garden, upmarket restaurant with reasonable prices and a wide menu of choices. Open style kitchen advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior with spotlighted artwork and beautiful cushions give an oriental luxurious feeling – augmented by dishes served on earthenware crockery.17a Ngo van Nam, D13829 1515

3T Quan NuongTasty bbQ venue situated above Temple bar. The venue has a traditional, rustic theme with old-style furniture and a quaint Vietnamese decor, making this a nicely atmospheric restaurant and a great place to dine with international friends new to the cuisine. The menu features a number of local favorites.Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D13821 1631

banh Xeo 46AFun Vietnamese-style creperie popular with locals and expats alike for its tasty, healthy prawn pancakes, along with a number of other traditional dishes.46A Dinh cong Trang, D1

cha ca la Vong if you do only one thing, you'd better do it well – and this venue does precisely that, serving only traditional Hanoian Cha Ca salads stir-fried with fish and spring onion. Delicious.36 Ton That Thiep, D1

cuc Gach QuanDeservedly one of the highest ranking Vietnamese restaurants in Saigon on

Trip advisor, this delightful restaurant serves up traditional, country-style foods and contemporary alternatives in two character-filled wooden houses located on opposite sides of the street from each other. Unique food in a unique setting and an unbelievably large menu.10 Dang Tat, D13848 0144

highway 4The menu reflects the ambiance of the north and wider Vietnam, although dishes are carefully selected to meet a more universal palate.101 vo van Tan, D3www.highway4.com

humHum is a vegetarian restaurant where food are prepared on site from various fresh beans, nuts, vegetables, flowers, and fruits. Food are complemented with special drinks mixed from fresh fruits and vegetables.2 Thi Sach, D13823 8920www.hum-vegetarian.vn

MayFine Vietnamese fare served in a

Also Try...character-filled three-story rustic villa located up a narrow alley, off the beaten track. Watch the chefs prepare authentic food from a varied menu in an open kitchen.3/5 Hoang Sa3910 1277

Temple clubNamed after the old-style Chinese temple in which the venue is located, the ancient stylings of this impressive restaurant make for an unforgettable evening spent somewhere in Saigon’s colonial past. beautiful oriental art that will please all diners and great local cuisine.29-31 Ton That Thiep, D13829 9244templeclub.com.vn

Nha hang NgonPossibly the best-known Vietnamese restaurant in Ho Chi minh City, Nha Hang Ngon serves up hundreds of traditional local dishes in a classy French-style mansion. 160 Pasteur, D13827 7131www.quananngon.com.vn8am - 10pm

Thanh Niena favorite with tourists and locals for many years, Thanh Nien behind the Diamond Plaza is a buffet in a home setting, with a-la-carte dining available in the leafy garden outdoors. Relaxing, beautiful place to eat.11 Nguyen van chiem, D13822 5909www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien

Propaganda bistroSpring rolls and Vietnamese street food with a Western twist. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant features hand-painted wall murals in an authentic propaganda style.21 Han Thuyen, D13822 9048www.facebook.com/Propaganda-Saigon

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INTErNATIoNAL

Au ParcOne of the city’s more charming international bistros in a perfect tree-lined inner-city location. au Parc serves Mediterranean cuisine with local flourishes in a venue lightly set off by plush seating and heady exotic styling. a beautiful dining area and extraordinary menu will see this becoming one of the mainstays in your restaurant cycle.23 Han Thuyen, D13829 2772

berruBerru is a family-run Turkish restaurant offering a variety of Turkish specialties including kebabs, koftas, mezzes and soups. This is one of the few halal restaurants that imports all of their halal meat.Sc 3-1 Nguyen Luong Bang, Nam Khang, D7

boathouseWith a great view of the Saigon River, this restobar serves imported steak, healthy salads and much more in an alfresco environment.40 Lily road, An Phu Superior compound, D23744 6790www.boathouse.com.vn

saffronThe first thing that will strike you when you enter Saffron is the terracotta pots mounted on the ceiling. Located on Dong Du, this restaurant offers mediterranean food, some with a distinct asian influence added for further uniqueness. Prepare to order plates to share and don’t miss the signature Cheese Saganaki! guests are welcomed with complimentary Prosecco, fresh baked bread served with garlic, olive tapenade and hummus.51 Hai Ba Trung, D1382 48358

PortofinoPortofino serves cicchetti - a tradition from Venice best likened to Spanish tapas, but usually served in larger portions, featuring cheeses, salad, pasta, prawns, pork, beef, salmon and seafood. Highlights for innovation: Trippa alla Romana – tripe with chickpeas, marinara sauce and fried egg; Slow braised pork belly served on mascarpone polenta; and mozzarella in Carozza – breaded fresh mozzarella, anchovy and basil toasted with pomodoro sauce.15 Dong Du, D1

Also Try...boomarang bistroLocated in The Crescent by the lake, the spacious boomarang bistro Saigon serves australian and other Western food in the most pedestrian friendly, relaxed part of town.107 Ton Dat Tien, D73841 3883www.boomarang.com.vn

chit chatDaily menu change for their breakfast and dinner buffets, served in a relaxing atmosphere with eight live cooking stations with over 60 varieties of domestic and international dishes. a meeting place to enjoy a cup of coffee from selected premium blends and delicious homemade pastries and cakes.Hotel Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong, D53839 [email protected]

corso steakhouse & barWith an extensive wine menu, contemporary asian cuisine and wide range of juicy, sizzling steaks cooked to your liking by our professional Chefs, Corso Steakhouse & bar is the perfect choice for a special celebration or formal business dinner.

117 Le Thanh Ton, D13829 5368 ext 6614www.norfolkhotel.com.vn

Elbow roomAt The Elbow Room, a rustic homage to retro americana with its exposed brick, black and white vintage photographs, and Nora Jones soundtrack, diners can order classic american breakfasts all day. Live music upstairs on Friday nights is the city’s best kept secret. 52 Pasteur, D1www.elbowroom.com.vn

hog’s breathan australian family diner and bar concept. Renowned for steaks, seafood and other Western fare served in an informal environment. Smoke-free indoors. ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower2 Hai Trieu, D1www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Khoi ThomKhoi Thom has evolved into an authentic mexican-style cantina serving home-style dishes, many from the mexican chef’s family. With bright colors, a large breezy outdoor deck with an open bar and a long street frontage, Khoi Thom has earned respect for its adventurous hues and style since opening. 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3www.khoithom.com

la fenetre soleilLiterally ‘window to the sun’, LFS showcases a fusion of old-world fittings (exposed bricks, antique furniture and chandeliers) with new-world elements (fur cushions, mosaic tiles and glass tables). Serves a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu.4 Ly Tu Trong, D1

refinerya charming venue with a chequered history, the Refinery brings the best of european cuisine to the opium headquarters of the old colonial empire. Loving restoration work has brought out much of the building’s architectural charm, and with a menu that delivers the finest in French dining as well as culinary flourishes from around the continent, you’ll never be short of options. Stands up to multiple repeat visits.74 Hai Ba Trung, D13825 7667www.therefinerysaigon.com

scott & binh’sall-heart Western cuisine and family friendly venue in the D7 neighborhood. Scrupulous attention to good service and a commitment to great food that makes customers happy.15-17 cao Trieu Phat, D7

Deutsches Eck /German cornerThe restaurant is fast becoming known for its sausage, beers, and their Schweins Haxe or pork knuckles (served with white cabbage and mashed potatoes). a number of german beers to select from including Konig Pilsener, bitburger, Koestritzer black beer, benediktiner Weisse,HB-Hofbrau Weisse, Schwarzbrau Exquisit, and Schwarzbrau Weisse.A001 Nguyen van Linh St., Phu My Hung, D754106695

Zombie bbQZombie bbQ is a modern american bbQ restaurant featuring smoked ribs over Beachwood smoke for 8 hours. Offerings include bbQ chicken specialties from around the world as well as alligator, Fresh Jalapeño poppers, Mexican street tacos with grilled meats as well as Vegetarian food. a never ending parade of meats find their way into the spit roaster as well as new creations every week.4 Thao Dien, D26685 3756 / 09 1851 01394pm - 11pmFacebook: ZombieBarbequesaigon

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A r T

A professional artist and author of A Week in Hoi An, Bridget March specializes in urban landscapes and aims to reveal the hidden treasures of city life and small town

cultures through her illustrations. Bridget offers art classes and sketching tours in Ho Chi Minh City. For

more of Bridget's work, visit bridgetmarch.co.uk

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snap DecisionsAdvice on how to approach collecting photography

A QUESTION WAS recently posed to me: “Are photographic prints collectable? Can they be an investment the same way as art?” My answer is absolutely, and right now is a very good time to start collecting, right here in Vietnam.

Across the world, 19th, 20th and 21st century photography have occasionally sold for millions of dollars at Sotheby’s and Christie’s auction rooms, and interesting prints regularly sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars. Now it’s considered to be a very exciting time to invest in Fine Art photography because it’s still new. There was a time when Impressionist, Cubist and Expressionist paintings were considered to be offensive and not to be taken seriously but now the works of artists who experimented with these intellectual ideas are amongst the most collectible and expensive in the world.

Which photography or photographer to collect? As with any form of art, choosethe subject you enjoy, whether it’s landscapes, black and whites, social commentaries, portraits or a time period. Read about the famous and not-so-famous artists and look online for galleries and websites that sell them. The same as with artists, you should ask about their

biography, what their background is, where they work, what kind of photography they specialize in, where they have exhibited and where their works have been published. The more that a photographer is recognized by their peers for the work they do, the more collectable it is likely to become.

You should find out if the image is from a limited edition and how big the edition is. Does the image belong to a particular collection or body of work? What kind of paper or other surface has the image been printed on? How do you look after it? Will you receive a certificate of authenticity signed by the photographer? The smaller the edition, the better the quality or rarity of the paper and the larger the image, the more expensive and more collectable it is likely to be.

In Vietnam, today, there are a number of professional photographers producing excellent work in their different genres. Some are known for their landscapes, portraits, urban scenes and some for their study of everyday life. However, mostearn their income from teaching, wedding and commercial photography or photographic tours; few concentrate on making a living solely from their own

photographic projects. There are some, however, whose work

is recognized internationally. The acclaimed Long Thanh has a gallery in Nha Trang where his images can be seen in black and white. Art Vietnam Gallery in Hanoi has shown the work of French photographer Sebastien Laval and Vietnamese artist Phan Quang’s photographs were exhibited as part of his installation project at San Art in Saigon. French photographer Rehahn now lives and works in Vietnam. His work about people, customs and costume can be seen at his gallery in Hoi An and his Saigon debut exhibition will be held next month at VinGallery in District 2. The buzz is that there will be one huge photograph on exhibition for USD10,000. Number one of a limited edition of only three, it is printed on Kodak Endura metallic paper which, apparently, has tobe seen to be believed.

When the young, well-educated Vietnamese start to take a greater interest in their own cultural heritage and wake up to the fact that it is being undervalued by their parents’ generation, the works of the photographers and artists who captured its passing will take on new meaning and acquire greater value.

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Travel & leisureIMAGE BY cAroLINE couPE

Nyhavn harborcopenhagen, Denmark

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G r E A T E s c A P E s : c o P E N h A G E N

MetamorphosisFrom tourist to local in Copenhagen

TEXT AND IMAGEs by cArolINE couPE

COPENHAGEN IS A city where rich history meets modern innovation, a growing tourist destination, and an emerging force in the culinary world. Millions of visitors flock here every year to tour the palaces, absorb the unique Scandinavian culture, shop for Danish designs and dine on New Nordic cuisine. But there are so many layers to the city that as a visitor it’s impossible to do more than scratch the surface. In becoming a local, though, I have discovered more to the city than I ever expected.

Having traveled the world working on cruise ships, many of my travel experiences were brief, just enough to absorb the feel of a place, eat some local food and take some nice photos. I longed to really experience a place, to discover hidden gems and local haunts. I ended up living in Copenhagen by chance, but I knew I would love it. From day one, I was out exploring the city. The first thing I wanted to see, of course, was what all visitors

to Copenhagen want to see: Nyhavn, the colorful row of restaurants and bars lining the canal filled with Tall Ships. Once the city’s main harbor, Nyhavn was a seedy area filled with sailors and prostitutes, but today it is the most popular tourist spot in the city. The Little Mermaid and the Strøget shopping area soon followed, both alive with eager tourists.

I made a point of getting to know the history of my new hometown and was fascinated. Settled by Vikings and founded by a warrior bishop, the city survived a plague, two devastating fires and a Nazi occupation. But Copenhagen persevered and rebuilt a city rich in architecture and culture, shaped by palaces, museums, churches and gardens built by the industrious minds of Denmark’s past, a constant reminder of its history while looking to the future. What I was most eager to experience were the royal palaces, of which Copenhagen has several. Denmark is one of the oldest monarchies in the world and

there have been many royal residences here. The current one is Amalienborg Palace, a complex of four identical mansions centered on a courtyard, linked by underground passageways. Protected by soldiers in uniforms dating to 1848, the daily Changing of the Guard is a huge draw. I marveled at the fact that I could come and see this regal display whenever I wanted, and I still do. I visited the Parliament and Royal Reception Rooms at Christiansborg, the fifth palace to stand in its location since the first in 1167. My favorite, though, was Rosenborg Castle, originally built by King Christian IV as a summer palace and set in spacious gardens.

FroM LEFT: Strøget shopping area, and Amalienborg Palace protected

by soldiers

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FroM ToP: Christiansborg Palace, Rosenborg Castle Treasure Crown, and vibrant Vesterbro

Bursting with stunning frescoes and fascinating artifacts, each room represents a former ruler of Denmark. The Throne Room boasts a throne crafted from narwhal tusk and the Treasury guards Christian’s ornate crown among other treasures.

branching out Having covered the bulk of the main attractions, it was time to venture out of the city center and check out the real Copenhagen. I wandered through residential areas, amazed that there didn’t seem to be such a thing as a ‘bad’ neighborhood. Sure, some areas are more affluent than others, but they are all charming and clean, and even the red light district, with its strip clubs and sex shops, didn’t feel unsafe. Each area has its own vibe, from hipster-filled Vesterbro to upscale Frederiksberg to international Nørrebro. The buildings are historic, the streets are filled with cafes and bakeries, and blank spaces come alive with colorful street art. Every borough of Copenhagen has its own green spaces teeming with life, especially when the warm weather appears after the long dark winters. Østerbrofælled has a skate park, water park and dog park, while Frederiksberg Have has a heron colony, a palace, a Chinese pagoda and elephants. There’s a viewing area of their enclosure in the Copenhagen Zoo and park visitors can watch the antics of the elephants for free. There’s a series of man-made lakes running through three neighborhoods where locals walk, jog and cycle and it boasts the most spectacular sunsets. Nørrebro is home to two unique parks, one of which isn’t really a park at all, but a cemetery. Assistens Kirkegårde is the resting place of some of Denmark’s greatest historical figures, including author Hans Christian Andersen and existentialist Søren Kirkegaard. Far from being the entirely morbid place many would expect of a cemetery, it’s actually quite lively and beautiful. The graves are spaciously arranged and decorated with sculptures, lanterns and keepsakes where Copenhageners stroll the grounds and have picnics in the sun - celebrating life. The other is Superkilen - half a mile long with three distinct sections, each with its own defining color and feel. Away from the tourist areas in an ethnically diverse residential neighborhood, the park was designed in collaboration with Nørrebro residents. It contains an odd assortment of items from around the world: a fountain from Morocco, swing chairs from Baghdad, a slide from Chernobyl, even red dirt from Palestine. It’s a fascinating example of Danish creativity and ingenuity.

One of my favorite areas of the city is Christianshavn, an island artificially created by King Christian IV in order to fortify Copenhagen against attacks by sea. He hired a Dutch architect and modeled the borough after Amsterdam, complete with its own scenic canal. The most famous area of Christianshavn is Christiania, a freetown created in the 1970s by squatters who took over a military barracks. I was nervous to go inside because of its notorious cannabis trade and political issues but was talked into it and was surprised to find it a unique and interesting place. The residents of the area construct their own homes, run restaurants, hold concerts, build highly sought-after specialty bikes, and live by their own set of rules. It’s a fascinating look at an unorthodox way of life.

Discovering hyggeI soon became more comfortable in my new city and learned how things work. I got used to waiting for the green light to cross the street even if it’s 3am and there’s not a car in sight, and to watching out for the many bikes (do NOT stand in the bike lane). I gained insight into Danish culture, how they live and how they view life. The most essential element of Danish life is hygge. Hygge is something that can’t be translated. It’s a feeling of coziness and happiness in the company of family and friends, accented with delicious food and glowing candles. This idea gives the outside world a glimpse of the priorities and values of Danish society. It’s focused on family, with emphasis on a strong work-life balance. Work hours are shorter, parental leaves are longer and men seem more involved in family life.

Then there’s the food. New Nordic cuisine is a rising star

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in the culinary world, and for good reason. It’s a unique concept, using traditional techniques combined with avant garde ideas to create spectacular dishes. The ingredients are fresh and local and sometimes bizarre with quirky components like ants and moss. Copenhagen’s Noma is a well-known name in New Nordic, having been designated the best restaurant in the world four of the last five years, and diners pay hundreds of dollars each and wait up to six months just to experience it. Of course, there are many other outstanding places without the wait or the price tag, like Restaurant Radio, Kødbyens Fiskebar, and Manfred’s & Vin. There are other must-tries when in Copenhagen, like smørrebrød, a tasty open-faced sandwich with a variety of toppings piled high on dark rye bread, and pølser, a traditional hot dog sold from stands all over the city. These pølser wagons sell about a dozen types of sausage and they make for a great bite on the go. Be sure to ask for my favorite topping, the delicious risted løg (crunchy dried roasted onions). The other famous Danish snack and one I’m not as fond of is lakrids (black licorice). The Danes put licorice on everything: ice cream, cake, coffee, tea, chocolate, candy, syrup and mustard. You can even take a licorice tasting tour of the city. A great place to explore Danish food is Torvehallerne, a market and food hall in the heart of the city. It’s a foodie’s paradise with fresh meats, cheeses, produce and seafood, as

well as gourmet coffees, jams, chocolates and spices.

becoming localIt came time to explore outside the city center, and there was something to see in every direction. I went just south to the oceanfront promenade of Amager Strand and explored the tiny fishing village of Dragør. I headed further away, west to the former capital of Roskilde, where I visited the incredible cathedral - a resting place of thousands of years of Danish royalty. Heading north, I visited the oldest amusement park in the world - Bakken, set in a wildlife sanctuary teeming with wild deer. I spent a fantastic day in the seaside town of Helsingør, home to Kronborg Castle, the inspiration for Hamlet’s castle in Shakespeare’s play. I even went east, across the Øresund Bridge to Malmö, Sweden. The possibilities felt endless.

I’ve lived here six months, and I’m still discovering. In many ways I still feel like a tourist in the sense that everything feels new, exciting and interesting, and there is always something to explore. But it’s a different kind of exploration, into the true colors of the city. Last week, I headed out to a near-empty section of land behind a shopping mall in Sydhavn (South Harbor) to check out an incredible piece of street art I’d heard about – Evolution, a 170m mural illustrating time on Earth from the Big Bang to the Ice Age. I found not only the mural but an entire

cLocKWISE FroM ToP LEFT: Christianshavn, Torvehallerne Market, Tivoli Gardens and Roskilde Cathedral

culture of street art and legal graffiti in a gritty industrial setting, a far cry from the pristine picture-perfect buildings of Nyhavn. At the same time, I still love playing typical tourist: days after my Sydhavn adventure, I headed to the famous Tivoli Gardens for their Alpine Christmas where I browsed the market stalls, drank mulled wine and soaked in the magic of the place. I felt wonderment and a sense of belonging all at once. When entering the park, I saw the ticket seller’s demeanor change entirely when we asked about buying a yearly pass rather than a one-time entry. We weren’t just passing through. We were locals.

BIo: Caroline is a passionate traveler, photographer and aspiring travel writer. From Canada, she recently settled in Copenhagen, Denmark after spending eight years working on cruise ships and nine months working at a boutique hotel in Edinburgh, Scotland. Caroline has launched a travel blog, LoveLiveTravel, based on her experiences around the world. It can be found at www.lovelivetravel.co.uk, and is also on Twitter at @lovelivetravel.

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Travel The list

Princess d’Annam | Phan ThietThe Princess is an exquisite resort with an almost celestial atmosphere that is hard to find anywhere else in Vietnam. The look of the resort is classical, bright and impeccably clean and private. The two empress Suites are the very pinnacle of luxury accommodation in Vietnam – they are mini millionaire’s mansions in themselves, fully-equipped, bright and spacious, and possessing of the same ethereal design quality that pervades this whole resort. Set in the remote Ke ga bay – wordlessly beautiful.www.princessannam.com

Ana Mandara Villas | Dalat ana mandara Villas Dalat comprises 17 restored French-style villas from the 1920s and 1930s, preserving the original design, décor and charm; and set in the cool climate of the rural highlands of Central Vietnam. Striking views of the surrounding town and countryside abound from all areas of the gently sloping hillside property. Some of the villas have been converted into 65 guest accommodations, with each villa comprising between three and five ensuited rooms.www.anamandara-resort.com

An lam Villas | Ninh Van baybuilt amidst enormous granite boulders and natural fauna on the shores of Ninh Van bay and inaccessible by road, An Lam Villas Resort is serenely beautiful, silent, relaxing and safe. With private pools, butler service, and superb modern facilities, the whole concept is based on respecting the ecological hinterland, celebrating Vietnam’s food and culture - and service. There are 33 villas, and is an ideal location for honeymoons.Tan Thanh Hamlet, Ninh Ich commune,Ninh Hoa District, Nha Trang(05) 8362 [email protected]

NINH VAN BAY

Jasmine courtLocated on a peaceful and beautiful side street off Nguyen Van Troi boulevard, only 5 minutes from the Tan Son Nhat international airport and 15 minutes to the city centre, this boutique property with only 12 apartments is comprised of one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. all apartments are designed in a fresh contemporary style and finished in a pleasing neutral colour scheme. With personalized service, our warm and attentive staff will make your stay with us a pleasant and enjoyable experience.307/29 Nguyen van Troi, Tan Binh3844 6639 - 092 669 9033www.jasminecourt.com.vn

fusion Maia | Dananga unique and exciting fusion of resort and spa where spa treatments are inclusive and a part of daily living in this beach resort. It’s the first all pool villa style resort in the destination and offers 87 pool suites, spa villas and beach villas each with modern, open-plan living and private courtyard with swimming pool. ‘Freedom’ options such as spa treatments and breakfast available at multiple locations are a few of the surprising offers in store.maiadanang.fusion-resorts.com

bEsT WEsTErN PrEMIErhavana Nha Trang hotelSituated in the center of Nha Trang, the biggest five star hotel in Vietnam – best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang will leave you an unforgettable experience. Spacious suites with breathtaking ocean-view, massive outdoor pool 3-faced to the sea, underground tunnel connecting to the beach from the hotel, Sky bar on the roof of the City and more. Come and enjoy your time!38 Tran Phu Street, Loc Tho, Nha TrangT: (058) 388 9999 / Fax: (058) 388 [email protected]

la Veranda | Phu QuocThe most distinguished of Phu Quoc island’s hotels and guesthouses, La Veranda sports paddle fans, butter-yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, and tropical gardens recalling a colonial plantation. Freestanding deluxe villas are notable for their sea-facing porches, spacious bathrooms, and cathedral-like ceilings. This is the resort of choice for guests taking advantage of this unspoiled remote tropical island destination.www.laverandaresorts.com

Novela Muine resort & spaA 150-meter beach resort that offers luxurious accommodations, countless modern facilities and amenities with attentive services. a private and unique space in the heart of resort, Novela restaurant serves a daily breakfast, lunch, dinner and any other banquet with asian and european cuisine. With two floors, guests can enjoy wining and dining and view the beautiful beach and sand hill.96A Nguyen Dinh chieu, Ham Tien Mui Ne, Phan Thietwww.novelaresort.vn(62) 374 3456

Intercontinental Nha TranginterContinental Nha Trang is a luxurious modern beachfront hotel where an enriching urban retreat harmonized beautifully with its surroundings. Right in the heart of Nha Trang, a 40-minute scenic drive from Cam Ranh International Airport, experience the perfect blend of local charm and nature.32 - 34 Tran Phu, Nha Trang(058) 388 7777www.nhatrang.intercontinental.com

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A D V E r T o r I A l

Dr. Vuong

Eternal youthChoosing to stop the clock in its

tracks rather than wait to turn back the years

INTErVIEW by NPD KhANhIMAGE ProVIDED by orIENT sKINcArE AND lAsEr cENTEr

Orient Skincare and Laser Center244A Cong Quynh, District 1;3926 0561/62/63/643 Phung Khac Khoan, District 1; 3824 465064D Truong Dinh, District 3; 3932 5781945 Cach Mang Thang 8, Tan Binh District; 3970 3674www.orientskin.com

ONCE UPON A time, having Botox or filler injections to spruce up one’s appearance was a luxury reserved only for the rich and famous. With the boom of global medical tourism in Asia, these privileges are becoming increasingly available as well as affordable for both men and women.

Oi speaks to Dr. Ho Xuan Vuong (Medical Practitioner License Number: 10112847 - SCT/BS), a local veteran of the Vietnamese beauty industry with more than 10 years of specialized experience under his belt, to shed light on the Botox scene in Saigon. He is a graduate of the HCMC University of Medicine and Pharmacy, a licensed member of the Laser Association, and of the Medical Aesthetic Academy USA. Dr. Vuong currently serves as one among the core medical team at Orient Skincare andLaser Center.

how long have botox and filler treatments been available in Vietnam?

Dr. vuong: They have been here for at least 10 years, since 2004, but not until 2007 did their popularity start to pick up.

how long do the treatments take? Are they painful?

Dr. vuong: Botox and filler injections only take 10 to 15 minutes to complete, then two weeks for the injection to see results. Aside from a pinch you get from the injection, they are completely painless.

how long does the effect last?

Dr. vuong: A single injection should last you for at least three to four months, even as long as six months provided the skin condition is good. Afterwards, you will need subsequent injections every four to six

months based on the specific condition of your skin.

Is there any side effect if the injections are stopped?

Dr. vuong: Not at all, provided thepatient follows our instructions in caring for his or her skin.

Do the patients need down time after an injection?

Dr. vuong: No, they don’t. The biggest perk of Botox and other quick and painless beauty treatments is their convenience. A patient can pop in for 15 minutes in the morning, have their injection then go on the rest of her day as usual. This is also why Botox and fillers are among the most popular beauty treatments for tourists.

how does the pricing compare to that in the West?

Dr. vuong: That is difficult to say for certain. Of course on average the prices in Vietnam are always lower compared to places like America or Europe. But in the Vietnamese industry itself, the variations in price range are huge depending on the quality and reputation of each beauty center. As a rule of thumb though, a high quality treatment in Vietnam costs around a fifth to a third of a treatment of similar quality level in America or Europe.

Are the quality levels in Vietnamese beauty center different compared to beauty centers in the West?

Dr. vuong: I think anyone in the local industry would like to say ‘no’ to that question but the truth is that there are just too many variations in the industry as well as too many people willing to do anything for money for that to be true.That said though, if the doctors in charge of the treatment are trained and licensed

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by the same institutes and use the facilities and injection units imported from the same countries then I don’t believe there are any causes for a difference in quality level. The doctors at Orient Center are trained in America, Thailand and Singapore and we use medicine and botulinum toxin vials imported from America so I don’t believe that there is a significant differencein quality.

Are there any governing bodies in Vietnam that can certify a doctor for these beauty treatments?

Dr. vuong: Sadly, there are none, and anyone who tells you otherwise is not being truthful. The industry in Vietnam hasn’t grown to the point where we have such authorities yet. Specialized doctors and technicians in Vietnam are mostly trained abroad where there are academies and associations specializing in these new treatments. Popular countries include Thailand, the US and Singapore.

In that case, how do potential clients distinguish which beauty centers are of high quality and which ones they should avoid?

Dr. vuong: I have heard of horror stories concerning beauty centers of dubious credentials. For a potential client, there are several ways to ascertain the quality of any beauty center. First is the age of the beauty center and the number of branches. The industry in Vietnam is incredibly competitive. Centers with shoddy quality and reputation do not survive for long. Multiple branches is a definite sign of success and popularity, and the longer the center stays in business, it will gain more experienced and talented doctors.

Second is the medical team. Good doctors have many options and offers and tend to be picky about where they work. Only the best beauty centers manage to keep a stable team throughout the years. If you see a center with many years but with a constantly rotating medical team, then best stay away.

Third is the facilities, or in this case, the brands of botulinum toxin used for injection. In Vietnam right now, there are many brands of varying quality and prices. These brands are mostly imported from America and Korea. And of course, high quality botulinum toxins are much more expensive than those of questionable quality and unknown origin. Here at Orient, we use Allergan, the highest quality brand imported from America.

The fourth way to determine whether a beauty center is good or not, and this is from my personal experience, is the schedule the doctor sets for the patient. At Orient, we have many patients who come to us for Botox injection three or four days before a big event. As a rule, I don’t accept these patients.

What do you mean by that?

Dr. vuong: As I said above, it takes two weeks for a single injection to have its full effect. So it’s a common practice for doctors to have the patients coming in at the end of the two weeks. What we do then is check the results of the first injection and see if a touch-up is necessary. If it is necessary, we do it as part of the treatment itself. If a doctor accepts a patient with a scheduled appearance three to four days after the injection, it’s a guarantee that the result is not going to be good because at that time, the toxin is only in the first stage and there’s no chance for any touch-up or fixing if the patient’s face is not in top shape. Not all doctors refrain from accepting or even warning these patients about this though. It is a sign of a good doctor who is honestand lets his clients know what to expect and when not to have an injection.

Dr. hung & Associates Dental centera centrally located dental center that uses the latest modern equipment with a team of skilled specialists. Services include cosmetic, implant, braces, prosthodontics, pedodontics and more. expect high quality service at a reasonable price.Building 244A cong Quynh, D108 3925 752608 3925 [email protected]

health & beautyThe list

DENTAL Also try ...2000 Dental clinic Trung Tam Implantestablished in 1999, 2000 Dental Clinic now has 65 dentists serving 3 locations offering the full range of dental care, including surgery, implants and extractions.125 Le Thi rieng, D1

Elite Dental Groupelite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic that provides a wide range of dental services including general dentistry, cosmetic dentistry, implant, pediatric dentistry and orthodontics. Luxury design and their dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3

European Dental clinicOffering state of the art technology, competitive pricing,

and supreme quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated to their patients. 17-17A Le van Mien, D2www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com

German International Dentistrygerman international Dentistry offers excellent consultation services from experienced, international dentists so that you can make informed decisions about your dental care.1489 Nguyen van Linh, D7

saigon smile With a group of experienced doctors and professional staff trained to do teeth cleaning, dental work and other teeth enhancing procedures. 96 Tran Nao, D2 6674 4255 8am to 8pm

smile Dental centerQuality dental care with whitening, cleaning, and orthodontic

services. Japanese equipment and techniques.173 Ton Dat Tien, D7

starlight Dental clinicaward-winning quality care and personal service in clean premises, offering general dentistry, whitening and cosmetic surgery, implants, orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive dentistry.2 Bis cong Truong Quoc Te, D3

Westcoast International Dental clinicLarge, international team of dentists and support staff from Canada, Australia, Japan, France, italy, Thailand, and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts visiting dentists from many other countries. 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D13825 748

Moc huong spamoc Huong Spa is supported by top-ranking professional physiotherapists who combine eastern with Western techniques resulting a full body wellness. Reasonably priced with a wide range of services that include manicure, pedicure, facial, both body and for your complete well being.9c Ton Duc Thang, D13911 7118

SPA

Maison Mikio boutique salonDistrict 7’s Premium Boutique Salon. Two floors providing full beauty services nestled in a quiet residential area in Phu my Hung’s garden Plaza 2 Complex. equipped with a café, nail bar, 2 ViP rooms, and a spacious massage room - this boutique salon is like no other in Ho Chi minh City.garden Plaza 2 complex 8 Tôn Dât Tiên, Quân 75412 4773

Villa Aesthetica cosmedi spa &laser centerOne of HCMC’s finest newly-established spa and beauty centers, Villa aesthetica is the only venue in Vietnam to offer premium- class LPG endermologie treatments, erasing localized fat and imperfections. also known for their unique Turkish Hammam massage.54 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D26264 3388 / Hotline: 090 969 [email protected]

sweet spaThe spa is intimate and beautifully decorated. The staff consists of both highly-skilled men and women. Sweetspa serving you from hand to toe to give real spiritual and physical relaxation. as well as sport injury therapies. after hours of meetings or full days of working, treat yourself to a relaxing massage or soothing reflexotherapy.204B / 12 Nguyen van Huong, Thao Dien, D2www.sweetspa.vn

orient skincare & laser centerFounded in 2005, Orient is currently known as the leading center in laser treatment in Ho Chi minh city. The center offers non-surgery aesthetic treatments by the certified dermatologists as well as pampering services for any type of problem skin. a variety of treatments includes: wrinkle removal, acne & scar treatment, rejuvenation & pigment augmenting treatment, slimming treatments, permanent hair removal and massage therapy.244A cong Quynh, D13 926 0561-62-63-64

NAIl sAloN chErIrHigH - QUaLiTy geL NaiLCHERIR is Japanese Nail Salon providing the world lastest design under hygienic management. Please experience our hi-end Japanese gel nail nowhere else but at CHERIR in Vietnam. Polish gel package from VND400.000.20% OFF for new customers.08 3822 375010:00~ 19:00 (closed Tuesday)15B4 Le Thanh Ton St, D1Facebook: cHErIr.HcM

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Kids & Education

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The Idiot boxThe television generation versus

the tablet generation

TEXT by MIchAEl ArNolD

IN A RECENT article warning parents about the evils of modern technology, an elderly doctor writes about a father who had brought his son in for a check-up. The doctor examined the child and pronounced that he had a chest infection. He was surprised at the boy’s reaction – instead of turning to his dad for more information, he leaned into his iPhone and said, “Siri, what is ‘chest infection’?” This, scolded the doctor, was symptomatic of the modern condition – an erosion of the relationship between real human beings and its replacement with an overreliance on machines.

I don’t know about most people, but I find myself siding with the fairly cool dad

here – partially because I hope my own kids will learn how to do research for themselves whenever they have a question they need clear, authoritative answers to. My main objection, however, is that I recognize this argument, and I don’t find it particularly compelling. It’s exactly the same complaint that was made about the advent of the World Wide Web, the personal computer, the portable music player, and the television.

The argument against technology is an old Luddite protest born out of a fear of change, and it has a lot to do with the fact that pretty much everyone born within the last century has lived through an era defined by such change. Long gone are the days when

children had the security of growing up in the same environment that their folks were familiar with: the world that we inherit from our own parents is never the same as the one they knew. As parents ourselves, it’s not easy to be confident guides for our children born to new technologies – all those things that didn’t exist back when our own parents were struggling to guide us through the inventions of their time.

siri Is No humanIt was only several decades back that televisions became a feature in every home. As with all such things, parents found themselves wondering whether or not it

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was healthy to allow their children to sit in front of the telly instead of letting them play outside. At the time, heavy criticism was made of parents who would (rather guiltily) see the TV as a godsend that could keeptheir children occupied for up to two orthree hours.

Detractors called it the “idiot box” – a technological idol that could jellify the brain and ruin healthy childhoods. Forward-thinking liberals went as far as banning their children from watching any TV at all, so that they’d have more ‘quality family time.’ Looking back, this kind of parenting move seems a little extreme – by switching off the greatest medium of communication of their age, they deprived their children of unprecedented exposure to human drama, stories with actual morals, and information about the outside world, and tended to rear socially awkward youngsters with limited insight into the human condition. The restof us were watching wacky cartoons that, for all their silliness, still managed to convey what happens when people lie, what happenswhen they’re jealous, and how to have the

strength to forgive.Rather less credence is given to the

demonization of televisions nowadays.This is largely because (unlike the generations before ours) we grew up with it, and we’re not only comfortable but eager for our kids to enjoy the kind of quality entertainment we remember having back then. If anything, we’re more disappointed that the modern cartoons don’t have the same warmth as they seemed to in those days – I know I’m not alone in having downloaded episodes of fondly-remembered children’s shows in the hope that my kids will enjoy them as much as I did (and generally being disappointed with their lack of interest in the lame storylines that I hadn’t noticed at the time).

I see the same arguments being rolled out about tablets and mobile devices. When the iPad was invented, Steve Jobs – just as much a notorious hippie as he was a tech guru – wouldn’t let his kids play with it, and pretty much for the same reasons as the anti-TV brigade used a generation before him. Despite having unleashed the things on the rest of us, Jobs thought the iPad would rob children of

opportunities for hands-on learning –and given the borderline addictions mostof us have with iPad-generation devices,I can see his point.

As a parent, however, I’ve decided notto follow suit. Watching my kids use ourdevices constructively, I’m proud of the personal developments they’ve made interms of their creativity, their languageskills, their appreciation for music and art.I don’t believe they’re being deprived of human contact while they’re interactingwith a device – to say these machines are devoid of humanity is just as ridiculousas saying that there’s nothing to gainfrom reading a book because a book isnot a person. While Siri is no human,she’s a product of human design thatserves as a conduit to the largestrepository of human knowledge thathas ever existed – something I certainlyhope my children will be able to use well.At the very least, she seems to have accessto far better medical knowledge than I managed to learn by growing up withthe TV.

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The french International school saint AngeSaint ange welcomes children for their Kindergarten and Primary School. The school follows the program of the French education ministry, and includes english lessons every day. activities and subjects such as arts, sports and school trips are also an important part of their curriculum.188A2, Nguyen van Huong, Thao Dien, D2, HcMc0120 304 [email protected]

EducationThe list

INTErNATIoNAL ScHooLS

Abc International school (AbcIs)inspected and judged an outstanding school by british government inspectors (October 2013), the abCiS is one of the few schools worldwide awarded this Department for education rating. Progress of students puts the abCiS among the top 8% of schools in the world. Providing education for 2-18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment, it delivers a culturally adapted version of the british National Curriculum supported by Cambridge & aQa igCSe and aS/a levels. Students are prepared for Universities in the UK, USa, australia, Korea and Canada. Enquiries and AdmissionsTel: 5431 1833/34/35/36Email: [email protected]

british International school (bIs)inspected and approved by the british government, biS provides a british style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of international Schools and a member of FObiSia, biS is the largest international school in Vietnam.An Phu Primary campus225 Nguyen Van Huong, D23744 [email protected] Phu Secondary campus246 Nguyen Van Huong, D23744 2335 [email protected] Xuong Primary campus43-45 Tu Xuong Street, D33932 0210 [email protected]

Deutsche schule ho chi Minh cityInternational German schoolDeutsche Schule (IGS) offers a german curriculum from early years to grade 12 which is approved and supported by the german government. IGS is staffed by native German, Vietnamese and english speakers who have many years of teaching experience.We offer a link between Vietnamese and German culture, an international program with germanstandards and the immersion of german culture into everyday life.12, vo Truong Toan, An Phu08 37 44 63 44 [email protected]

EuroPEAN International schoolho chi Minh cityThe EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi minh City is an ib World School offering an academic and supportive english language education for students aged 2-18 years. eiS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. Students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. Language programmes ateiS include Spanish, german, French and Vietnamese.730 Le van Mien,Thao Dien, District 2, HcMcwww.eishcmc.com

APu International schoolAPU International School offers K-12 education based on american curriculum to both foreign and local students. aPU has a record of sending thousands of students to top-ranking US and world universities. it is also designated as a testing center by the College board for aP, SaT, and aCT exams.APu Elementary School (501 Lac Long Quan D11)APu Middle & High School (286 Lanh Binh Thang D11)www.apu.edu.vn

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renaissance International school saigonRenaissance is an international british school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the british curriculum complemented by the international Primary Curriculum and international baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. it is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, iT labs, music anddrama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D73773 3171 ext 120/121/122www.renaissance.edu.vn

saigon starInternational schoolSaigon Star is a student focused international school offering a high quality, first class education. Specialising in the British National Curriculum, all of the class teachers hold an international teaching qualification. In our Early Years programme, a montessori specialist works closely with the mainclass teachers to ensure a high rate of progress and attainment. The school also provides specialists for children requiring additional eSL support.residential Area No.5,Thanh My Loi Ward, D23742 STAr / 3742 7827www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn

American International schoolFounded in 2006, american International School (ΛIS) is a private, coeducational, university-preparatory school for students from preschool to grade 12. The language of instruction is English. The school offers standard american curriculum with a complement of performing arts, visual arts, music and sport programs.Elementary School (102c Nguyen van cu, D1)Middle School (35 Nguyen Huu canh,Binh Thanh)High School (781/c1-c2 Le Hong Phong, D10)

Australian International school (AIs)The australian international School is an ib World School with three world class campuses in District 2, HCmC, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the ib Primary years Programme (PyP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including igCSe) and ib Diploma Programme (DP).Xi Campus (Kindergarten)190 Nguyen van Huong, D2Thao Dien campus (Kindergarten & Primary School)APSc compound36 Thao Dien, D2

Thu Thiem campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School)East-West Highway, D23742 4040www.aisvietnam.com

schools of North AmericaOffers a dual curriculum - instructing students in a Vietnamese program directed by the Vietnam ministry of education and Training (mOeT) in tandem with an american program aligned with the State of California. Students graduate after accumulating 248 credits which is equivalent to high school graduates in the US.Street 5A, Trung Son residential Quarter,

Binh chanh402 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3www.sna.edu.vn

saigon south International school Founded in 1997, Saigon South international School seeks to accommodate an increasing need for american education for both local residents and expatriate families.SSiS enrolls over 850 students in early Childhood – grade 12 from over thirty-three countries in a spacious six-hectare, well-equipped campus. 78 Nguyen Duc canh, D7www.ssis.edu.vn

Also...

Vietnamese language studies (Vls)Vietnamese Language Studies (VLS) is established as a highly effective and professional Vietnamese language school for foreigners in Vietnam. For 20 years, VLS has focused on making learning Vietnamese an enjoyable, beneficial and meaningful part of life for our students. it is our passion to provide you with the experience of living in Vietnamese, not just learning. Our extensive training experience and serious commitment for excellence will make your “investment” personally rewarding and professionally productive in Vietnam.093 404 4669 / 091 337 [email protected]

The International school ho chi Minh city (IshcMc) The most established international school in HCmC and recently celebrating 20 years of success. iSHCmC is a fully accredited ib World School, authorized to teach all 3 programs of the international baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years. iSHCmC is fully accredited by both the Council of international Schools (CiS) and the New england association of Schools and Colleges (NeaSC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organizations. iSHCmC has over 1000 students from over 50 different nationalities.28 vo Truong Toan, D2(08) 3898 [email protected]

International school saigon Pearl (IssP)international School Saigon Pearl (iSSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90% of our teachers having master’s degrees, we are able to promise a vigorous american curriculum whilst including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and the languages. iSSP focuses on developing the whole child within a purpose built campus.92 Nguyen Huu canh, Binh Thanh2222 7788 / 99www.issp.edu.vn

The American schoolThe american School (TaS) is an international school that has been granted candidacy by the Western association of Schools and Colleges (WaSC), representing 20 nationalities. TaS provides an american-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings including Advanced Placement courses, university credit courses through our partnership with missouri State University, and an intensive eSL Program for english Language Learners.177A, 172-180 Nguyen van Huong, Thao Dien, D2www.tas.edu.vn 08 3519 2223 / 0903 952 [email protected]

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Because at ISHCMC we understand that the freedom to be unique empowers our students to

discover their passions.

Today’s students need to do more than memorize information in

traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education

that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In

addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities

to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart

of the ISHCMC philosophy.

Come and seethe difference we can make

in your child’s life.

A fully accredited IB World School, authorized to teach all 3 programs of the International Baccalaureate

curriculum to studentsages 2 – 18 years.

28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100Email: [email protected]

www.ishcmc.com

Energized Engaged Empowered

Why we love individuality

Samatha, ISHCMC StudentGrade 6

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MY

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ISHCMC_Nov_Advert_Mistake.pdf 1 11/20/14 10:43 AM

faces & Places

si restaurant openingSi, a unique art gallery cum fine dining restaurant opened in January (7A Ngo Van Nam, D1). Guests at the Grand Opening mingled amongst centuries-old antique Asian sculptures and

pottery as well as temporary exhibitions by local artists located on both floors.

IMAGEs by JAMEs PhAM & sI rEsTAurANT

Grand re-openingAn indoor/outdoor restaurant with a stunning 270 degree view of the skyline, Acacia Veranda Dining

Restaurant (8th floor, 149-151 Nguyen Du, D1, Compass Parkview Building) held a re-opening to showcase their

new five-star look with celebrity chef Jack Lee at the helm.

IMAGEs by NGoc TrAN

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Because at ISHCMC we understand that the freedom to be unique empowers our students to

discover their passions.

Today’s students need to do more than memorize information in

traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education

that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In

addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities

to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart

of the ISHCMC philosophy.

Come and seethe difference we can make

in your child’s life.

A fully accredited IB World School, authorized to teach all 3 programs of the International Baccalaureate

curriculum to studentsages 2 – 18 years.

28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100Email: [email protected]

www.ishcmc.com

Energized Engaged Empowered

Why we love individuality

Samatha, ISHCMC StudentGrade 6

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

ISHCMC_Nov_Advert_Mistake.pdf 1 11/20/14 10:43 AM

Oi Vietnam Issue #23 (February 2015)

Documents

Transcript of Oi Vietnam Issue #23 (February 2015)