Of Ghent and Bruges Dr. Law Chi Lim One of the most common question posed at travel forums on Belgium is : how to choose between visiting Ghent or Bruges ? To the uninitiated , both sounds like medieval cities in Belgium and maybe just seeing one is enough ? In fact , if you have time you really should visit both as they are totally different. And if you do not have time, try to find some. Ghent With a population of quarter of million ( including 60,000 students), Ghent is an interesting cross over between open cosmopolitanism and the quiet atmosphere of a provincial town. Walking through the historical part of Ghent is like walking through an old painting and being surrounded by masterpieces of churches and old merchant houses . There is even a medieval castle ( Castle of the Counts ) right in the middle of town with the obligatory torture museum inside and great views from the castle tower. But perhaps the single one most important reason to visit Ghent is to see the famous Ghent Altarpiece ( also known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb or The Lamb of God )inside the Saint Bravo’s church. This is a large and complex early 15th century masterpiece by the Flemish van Eyck ( Hubert and Jan) brothers. It comprises of 12 panels , eight of which are hinged , giving two distinct views with them either all opened or shut. Perhaps the most

important panel is the one on the lower level depicting a heavenly landscape of various people coming together to adore the mystic lamb of God on the central altar . The whole thing is done with intricate details and sometimes daring realism------ like the near-life-size nudes of Adam and Eve on both sides who appear to project out of the depth of their niches into real space. This piece is so famous that by the end of the fifteenth century, visitors were already paying to see this famous painting in the chapel

At the present moment, the Ghent Altarpiece is undergoing a five-year restoration programme scheduled to finish by 2017. Visitors to the Saint Bravo’s church now will not be able to see the whole display. When we visited earlier this year, the painting was enclosed in a huge glass which makes viewing not exactly easy , and , regrettably ,each of the Adam and Eve panel was replaced by a replica in black and white. However, the brilliant colour and details of the rest of the painting is still very impressive and leaves a lasting impression on the viewer. At the same time, there is a full-size replica at the back of the church (in much subdued colour , of course). In there, our guide was able to explain the painting to us in details as guides are not allowed to talk inside the chapel where the real thing was housed. The Ghent Altarpiece has been described as one of the most coveted and desired pieces of art in the history of mankind. Over the centuries, it has been the victim of numerous thefts by deceit or force. The last time this happened was during the Second World War when it was “acquired” by the Nazi and stored in a salt-mine in Austria . Its recovery by the Allies was depicted dramatically in the 2014 movie The

Monuments Men ( starring George Clooney and Matt Damon and Cate Blanchett, among others) based rather loosely on historical events. In the movie, there is this scene in which the priests in the Ghent Cathedral tried to hide the altarpiece but was discovered by the Germans. Finally , just as you leave the cathedral , do not forget to lift up your head to see the interesting sculpture above the doorway called the Mammelokker that depicts the Roman legend of a prisoner called Cimon, who was sentenced to death by starvation but survived thanks to his daughter Pero, a wet nurse who secretly breastfed him during her visits, thus giving a new dimension to the practice of breast-feeding.

Bruges Bruges, with its narrow cobblestone streets, well-preserved medieval buildings and canals that weave around the historic centre, is truly a wonderfully romantic town. Movie buffs would have noticed that Bruges has been featured in many films, the most notable one being the 2008 British-American black comedy In Bruges ( starring Colin Farrell , Brendan Gleeson and Ralph Fiennes) which showcased many landmarks and sights in Bruges and was practically a tourist’s guide to Bruges . The lead actor, Colin Farrell even won a Golden Globe Award for Best Actor in a Musical or Comedy. The latest manifestation of movie-makers’ affinity to this charming town appears in the recent Indian Bollywood blockbuster P.K.( 來自星星的 P K ), with

the first half hour of the film solely devoted to showing the cobble-stone alleys and bridges of this charming town . There was even a segment on travelling on the obligatory-----for every tourist, that is------ boat trip which gives one an entirely different perspective of the picturesque canals of Bruges.

The only problem with Bruges is that it is filled with tourists all year round , and on an average day-visit , one feels like visiting a film set in some movie theme park together throngs of people around. Perhaps the best way to truly savour the romantic atmosphere of the place is to stay overnight there. Just wait till the tourists are gone by 4 pm, then one can stroll in solitude along the narrow streets and may be sit down with a glass of beer by the tranquil lake with overhanging willow and swans , or take a seat in a canal side restaurant for a romantic candle-lit dinner . Now , that is what one would call a wonderful life.

Need to Know 1.. While in Ghent , do not forget to sample the famous Belgian Waffle and chocolate. Incidentally , the Belgians claim that it was they who invented fried potato chips which was later known to the world as French Fries. 2. A unique place to stay in Ghent is the Marriott with its central location. Inside a well-preserved medieval façade is a thoroughly modern hotel and an atrium with glass ceiling. 3. The Central Market Square ( Grote Markt) in Bruges is obviously the place that all tourists congregate to . However, avoid eating in any of the over-priced restaurants lining the square. Instead, go into the side streets for better value fare. Try Huyze Desmet Brugge at Sint-Amandsstraat 8-8000, where a group of us did have a hearty lunch at a fair price. 4. There is no need to worry that you will be bored if you stay overnight in Bruges. There are enough little interesting shops, churches and museums to explore . In particular, you may like to check out the Church of our Lady where Michelangelo’s “ Madonna and Child” is displayed. It was the artist’s only sculpture to cross the Italian border during his life-time. Also do not miss the sublime hand-made chocolate place Pierre Marcolini in the Central Square.