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    To use, soak for 5 minutes in the same water as you would use for vegetative growth. Prepare your water at 5.86.2 PH, and add your nutrients to suit. THEN, add your grow cubes. Despite what youve read before, its NOT necessary to soak these for more than 5 minutes.

    Replicando a GP #1Usei predominantemente Terra adubo de curral Terra NobreUsei enraizador FortUsei FoswayUsei BenervaUsei também cházão humus melado algas ETCUsei misturas com aloe veraPosteriormente misturas com mucilon na flora

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3yi5U9Cg64Sterilized Distilled WaterMateriais:Alcool Isopropilico 70% para esterelizar o prato e o ambiente de culturaAgua SanitáriaDetergente ou sabonete liquido neutroPapel ToalhaPinça EstérilFaquinha afiada pra cortar (gilete)

    Potinhos (um com alcool para deixar as ferramentas, um esterelizado com o gel de ágar)Agua Destilada de Chuva ou Agua Esterelizada por fervuraAlgumas pitadas de AIBColocar o gel com o ágar no microondas por 5 minutosRecipienteAgua SanitariaAgua OxigenadaAlcool

    Medium:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDMJ6Cd0hF8&list=PL5A229463009E837D&index=2Açucar

    Ágar + Nutrientes (it HAS to have ammonium nitrate)100 mg inositol OR 1/4 of a smashed up vitamin B1 tablet (need at least .25 mg)4 tablespoons coconut milk from a FRESH coconut4 grãos ou mais de pó enraizador Aib ou Clonex1 Quart Canning Jars Distilled water is preferred but you can boil water for about 10 minutes it works, if your water has a lot of chlorine, especially chloramine, boil for 2030 minutes. Chloramine can be a bitch to get out of the water, in southern california, boiling the water isnt enough. What i do is add a pinch of worm castings (soil smells horrible) stir it up and then boil it, then strain the water when you put it in the jar. The chloramine binds to the microbes in the castings, and then whatever didnt get killed from the chloramine does during the boil.

    cotonete e algodãoTesouraUm pote pra limpar a tesouraUm pote com agua para enxaguar

    Instruções:Pegar o recipiente de vidro (devidamente esterelizado) com os galhos dentro, colocar agua de torneira e sabonete liquido protex e agitar por 2 minutosRemover a Agua do recipiente, borrifar alcool iso dentro e agitar por mais 30 segundos, depois enxaguar com mais agua (não precisa encher o pote)

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    Colocar agua novamente até a metade e dessa vez adicionar 20ml de Água Sanitária a solução (solução a 10%) e 2 gotas de sabonete liquido Protex ou Detergente Neutro, completro reservatorio e agitar e deixar em banho maria por 20 minutosEnxaguar e drenar a agua sanitariaColocar a caixa plastica em algum local limpo e esterelizar caixa e localcolocar um pote esterelizado de vidro e dentro dele colocar um potinho de plastico com alcool dentro, para deixar as ferramentas (pinça e gilete)Ficar sempre com o alcool iso 70% a disposição para eventuais esterelizaçõesColocar o pires esterilEsterelize o potinho da media, colocar solução Ágar/Aib/Açucar na Água Destilada (ou fer agua da pia por 10minutos), depois antes de solidificar adicione um pouco de clonexColocar as amostras dentro do pote com Ágar e fechar imediatamente

    A alga Gracilária Confervoides, também conhecida como Agar Agar Nacional, possui coloração mais escura quando comparado ao Agar Agar Importado. Princípios Ativos: Macroelementos: cálcio, fósforo Aminoácidos Essenciais: arginina, histidina, isoleucina, leucina, licina, metionina, fenilalanina, treonina, valina e alanina; Vitaminas: A,B1, B2, C, B12 e ácido fólico. Indicações e Ação Farmacológica: a partir da Gracilaria por meio de purificação de suas mucilagens o Agar Agar, o qual é utilizado na indúsria farmacêutica e alimentícia, constituindo a maior utilização da Gracilaria. Modo de

    reparo de sobremesa gelatinizada de Agar Agar com suco de frutas e açúcar mascavo: para cada litro de água diluir 10g de ágarágar em pó (cerca de 1 a 2 colheres de sopa).Fever até adquirir uma aparente viscosidade (geralmente cerca de 3 minutos, pois toda a mistura deve atingir 90ºC). A solidificação é bastante rápida, ocorrendo em cerca 20 minutos.

    O tipo mais fácil de ágar para se utilizar nesta experiência é um ágar que vem em formpó. Você vai precisar de 1,2 g (cerca de 1/2 colher de chá) de pó de ágar para cada plade Petri de 10 cm que desejar usar.Em um prato ou tigela à prova de calor, misture 1/2 colher de chá de pó de ágar em 60 (aproximadamente 1/4 de xícara) de água quente. Multiplique essas quantidades para quantas placas de Petri planejar usar.Coloque a tigela ou prato no microondas e deixe ferver por um minuto, olhando pa

    ra certificarse de que a solução de ágar não transborde.Quando a solução estiver pronta, o pó de ágar deverá estar completamente dissolvido e do deverá estar claro.Permita que a solução ágar esfrie por alguns minutos antes de prosseguir.

    Prepare agar colocálo no microondas com a quantidade certa de água. O rótulo deve fornecer orientações específicas, mesmo que 6,9 ??gramas por 500 ml de água (ou apenas um ouco mais de dois copos) é padrão. Agar para comprimidos, 10 comprimidos dissolvidos em duas xícaras de água é padrão.

    I'm going to post my media recipes for cacti culture on the condition that if anyone uses any of these they'll report back with any improvements/observations/suggestions/whatever. All my media is solidified with agar, I haven't tried any ot

    her gelling agents.

    Loph Media/Pedro pupping [my original formula, causes a little vitrification]:1/2 MS w/ vit./L0.7mg/L PPM [trying 1.0 mg/L]5.0mg/L BAP0.5mg/L NAA25g/L sucrose [trying 20g sucrose + 5g dextrose]~5.80 pH adjusted w/ H2SO4

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    Loph Media [my newest recipe, no vitrification and stronger growth]:1/2 MS w/ vit./L1.0mg/L PPM5.0mg/L BAP0.5mg/L NAA20g/L sucrose5g/L dextrose~5.80 pH adjusted w/ H2SO4

    So far, this is the best recipe I've been able to find for actual shoot elongation in columnar cacti [still far from ideal, growth is very slow]:

    1/4 MS w/ vit./L0.8mg/L PPM2.0mg/L BAP0.1mg/L IBA [this seems to be key, swapping IBA for NAA pretty much stops all growth, if anyone is experimenting with this you might want to pay special attention here]25g/L sucrose~5.80 pH adjusted w/ H2SO4

    The media is M&S, with 15 g/L of sucrose, pH 5.8 before sterilizing (balanced with KOH) and 2mg/L kinetin, 0,2 mg/L IAA and 10 g/L agar

    you use .001g in 1ml of solvent...then use that 1ml in 10l of mediahttp://originalssc.com/CannabisMarijuana/2012/05/howtotissueculturein10easystepseditedforstoners/Tissue culture in cannabis is not very hard once you have the regulators, media, equipment (glovebox or flowhood) and if you are familiarized with sterile techniques. Here is some photos of my experiments.. I used MS media supplemented with kinetin, AIA, sacarose and pH adjusted to 5.8 before sterilizing.

    Shoot tip culture is the method in widest use for the mass propagation of woodyspecies. An actively growing shoot tip is surface sterilized and placed on a def

    ined culture medium under sterile conditions. The culture medium contains inorganic and organic salts (macronutrients, micronutrients and vitamins) as well as an energy source (sucrose or table sugar), growth regulators, and agar )to gel the medium). If the growth regulators are appropriately balanced, the shoot tip elongates, lateral buds break and begin growth, and adventitious shoots are also produced on the stem piece. This rapid proliferation of shoots results in massesof shoots being produced from a single shoot tip. Up to a hundred shoots may beproduced in as little as eight to twelve weeks from a single tip. The number ofshoots produced and the rapidity of shoot proliferation varies between species,and in some cases, between cultivars of a single species. Shoots are removed from the cultures at regular intervals and a portion of the mass is replaced on fresh media to continue proliferation. The small shoots which are removed are thenrooted in a separate medium, either a sterile gelled medium or a peatperlite me

    dium (in much the same fashion as conventional woody cuttings).

     Shoots produced through tissue culture are generally easy to root, even thoughthe same cultivar may be difficult to root by cutting propagation. The resulting rooted shoot is referred to as a "plantlet" because of its miniature size, butthese can generally be grown in the greenhouse at a rapid rate and with a high degree of survival. Techniques for rooting tissue cultured shoots are currently receiving a great deal of research attention as are methods for establishing these shoots into the greenhouse environment.

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     Tissue cultured plants tend toward a more branched habit. This tendency results in a young plant which is less leggy and salable earlier because of increased fullness (bigger buds). Tissue cultured plants produce cuttings which have increased rooting when rooted by conventional means. This phenomenon is being exploited in the rejuvenation of stock plants for cutting propagation. The most obviousadvantage inherent to micro propagation is that more plants are produced quicker from a limited number of stock plants (one in some cases).

     Plant Tissue Culture for Home Gardeners Items Needed for Home Tissue Culture:

     1 A sterile still air cabinet used to transfer plants. A fish tank on its side makes an ideal transfer cabinet. Any perspex or glass chamber with dimensionsof 50 cm (length), 40 cm (height) and 40 cm (depth) could easily be made into atransfer cabinet. 2 A pressure cooker for sterilization of media, instruments, water, paper toweling etc. 3 Glass jars (baby food jars are excellent) and take away food containers with lids which can withstand the heat inside a pressure cooker are ideal vessels to use. 4 Scalpel and forceps 5 Paper toweling or even A4 white copy paper, cut to size, can be sterilizedand used for a sterile cutting surface. 6 A spirit lamp containing ethanol for flaming the instruments (avoid using M

    ethanol as it is toxic!). 7 Hand held spray bottle containing 70% alcohol solution to spray the transfer chamber and other surfaces. 8 Dilute chlorine solution e.g. 1/4 dilution of the household bleach (e.g. White King) for use in surface sterilization of plant material. 9 Any skin disinfectant10 Media (see below)Media Preparation All the ingredients indicated below can be purchased using the super market, chemist and a health food shop.1 Two cups of rain water (distill) 2 A quarter cup of sugar 3 Fertilizer stock: 1/2 tablespoon all purpose 10:10:10 (N.P.K.) water soluble

     fertilizer in 1L of water: use one cup of stock for this recipe. 4 Inositol tablets (500 mg): 1/2 tablet 5 Vitamin tablet with thiamine: 1/2 tablet Any multivitamin tablet may be used. 6 Agar flakes: 4 tablespoons

     This is the basic media. For preparation of multiplication and rooting media add 1/2 cup of coconut milk and 1/2 teaspoon of malt. Replacing the coconut milk with 1/2 cup of green tomato puree or 1/2 cup of freshly squeezed orange juice may produce different responses. Ensure that the pH of medium is always between 5and 6 using narrow range pH indicator tape. Adjust pH if necessary, with acid e.g. Citric acid or base e.g. bicarb soda.Mix the ingredients in a saucepan and gently boil until the agar has dissolved,

     stirring continuously to stop the agar sticking and subsequently burning at the bottom of the pan. Dispense into empty glass jars, using a ladle, so that the medium is about 2 cm deep. Cover and process in a pressure cooker. Cook for 15 minutes after the pressure is reached (this will be achieved when the pressure valve starts letting steam out).Sterilizing Instruments and Other Items

     Forceps and scalpels can be sterilized by being wrapped in foil and cooked in the pressure cooker for 15 minutes. These items can also be sterilized by being washed in chlorine solution or being dipped in alcohol and flamed.

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     Sterile water is needed for rinsing plant material and sterile paper toweling to be used as a clean surface to work on. The manipulation can be accomplished on the paper. When the operation is completed, the towel can be discarded and a new sterile surface selected from the sterile supply. The water can be sterilizedin glass jars. Place paper inside a paper bag and cook them in the pressure cooker above the water level. The bag will be wet on completion of sterilization. Transfer the bag to an oven set at 80 C and allow the bag to dry inside the oven.Do not unwrap the papers until needed.

     Sterilization of Plant Material All plant material can be sterilized in diluted domestic bleach, for example White King (1/4 cup of White King + 3/4 cup of water + 1 drop of detergent detergent acts as surfactant). Put plant pieces in a jar containing the bleach for 1020 minutes. Agitate frequently. Discard the chlorine solution, this process will kill bacteria and fungi and sometimes some parts of the plant such as outer bud scales and softer shoots. Rinse plant pieces twice with sterile water.

     Operations in the Sterile Cabinet Great care should be taken to ensure that your cultures are free from contamination. To achieve this do the followings: 1 Tie back your hair, roll your sleeves up and remove your watch and other jewellery. Wash your hands thoroughly with the disinfectant solution suitable for skin application. If allergic to any disinfectant wash your hands with water andwear a pair of surgical gloves.

    2 Sterilize the inside of the cabinet by spraying with 70% alcohol and wipingdry with sterile tissue.3 Collect and organize all the items you will need close to or inside the cabinet.4 Working in the cabinet, take a sterilized piece of stem from the jar with apair of forceps (do not touch the plant material with your hands). Also sterilize your instruments by dipping them in alcohol between each manipulation and flaming them. Small pieces, 23 cm long with a few leaves can be cut and transferred to agar medium. If the leaves are too large either remove them or cut them to 1/31/2 the size. Put one piece of the shoot into each container (it is important to have only one shoot per container at this stage so that if the shoot is contaminated it cannot spread to the others). Shut the lids of the containers. Store jars at room temperature away from direct sunlight. Leave these shoots for one

    month.One of these three things will happen during this time: some of the shoots will be killed by the chlorine solution and or the toxin produced by plants themselves; some will be contaminated by fungi and bacteria; or new shoots will grow very rapidly from the axils of the stems in the uncontaminated containers. Discardthe dead and infested cultures.

     Shoot Multiplication The shoots from the previous stage may have elongated during the past four weeks. They need to be transferred to the medium containing the coconut milk (coconut milk has some growth promotory properties which makes plant segments to produce more shoots) for further multiplication.1 Repeat the preparation and sterilization steps for the medium, instruments a

    nd chamber as before. Sterilize your hands as before too. 2 Transfer the containers of shoots to one side of the cabinet and the sterilized medium at the other side. 3 Use sterile paper toweling, scalpels and forceps as before. 4 With a pair of forceps, remove a stem from its container, and cut on the surface of the sterile paper toweling moistened with some sterile water. It is important to do all the manipulation on a damp paper towel as these plants are verysoft and can desiccate readily. The separated shoots can be transferred to the new jars. At this stage, up to five pieces of plant may be put inside each container.

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     5 Store cultures as explained in the previous stage.The multiplication stage may be repeated every four weeks until enough plants have been obtained. As a general rule shoots can multiply 34 folds every four weeks. The important point to note here is that high rate of contamination duringthis stage suggests that you are getting air borne contaminants due to poor hygiene.Root Formation

     Once you have established enough shoots, let them grow to at least 2 cm beforebeginning the rooting process. Transfer shoots to the rooting medium containingcoconut milk and malt. Up to five shoots may be put in each culture vessel. Store containers in their usual place as before. Roots should form within two to four weeks.Transfer to Potting Mix (Acclimatisation)

    The thing that has always worked the better for me is to place the seed in a glass of water with 3 drops of hydrogen peroxide. I put the glass on top of the stereo amplifier so they are warm and cover them with the packaging, so I have them with their names and it suits as a greenhouse. In 36 hours max they all will germinate. I have corrected the water to PH 6.0.Once they sprouted I put them into Jiffys and i've irrigated them with water+Cannastart. Its time to give them white light, in this case, energy saving 150w bulb.

    if you leave a bud drying next to a HID light for a while by accident it will do the same thing tehehe.

    Supercrop: para enfaixar a area utilizar corda de estanho no lugar de fita crepe ou qualquer outra coisa, pois assim da pra ver a evolução da planta se recuperando

    30ppm sprayed once a day vs 15ppm sprayed twice should be the same for the plant.

    Anyway, if you are lazy like myself, i have made it with just dangling the wireinto a 1 litre or 2 litre bottle of demineralised water for 1248 hours, and the spray works at reversing sex.

    I have a favorite female clone that I am taking a shot at FEM'ing & making S1'sof.

    I got a pint of 240 PPM Silver Mountain Minerals Colloidal Silver, off of Amazon 

    http://www.amazon.com/ColloidalSilv.../dp/B0036RM6E2

    ... Diluted it at 4 parts water, 1 part Colloidal Silver, to get it down to about 50 (or 48) PPM.

    Are my number right?

    It took 34 days to first pollen, and you treated the plant every day with 20ppmCS?

    I'm just trying to compare CS to what I use (STS). I have always wondered what the differences would be.

    only steam distilled water

    Supply 30V 500mA, I got one supply Hp deskjet old! Work!

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    House and Garden Aquaflakes A+B

    When I scrog, I typically top the plant after the 3rd or 4th node.. then again on the new shoots at the 3rd node. This makes for a very bushy plant!

    Dewey Mister air pump kit includes 1 Dewey mister 5 feet of 3/16" ID tubing andeco air pump. The EcoPlus® Supreme Air Pumps are great for 1 Dewey Mister. In Aeroponics applications, the Dewey Mister will oxygenate and criculateing the waterand increase the uptake of nutrients by the plant. Single outlet 140 L/H 937GPH) 2.8 Watts Pressure >0.016Mpa Energy efficient High Output

    Forgot to mention, coco was first flushed until the runoff was 5.8, and the water given each time is adjusted to 5.8.

    After I add 10 Gallons of tap water(37.8541178 liters), I add:*20 mL General Hydroponic FloraMicro (5 nitrogenio, 0 fósforo e 1 de potássio):Total Nitrogen (N) 5.0%0.3% ammoniacal nitrogen4.7% Nitrate NitrogenSoluble Potash (K2O) 1.0%Calcium (Ca) 5.0%Boron (B) 0.01%Cobalt (Co) 0.0005%Chelated Copper(Cu) 0.01%

    Chelated Iron (Fe) 0.1%Chelated Manganese (Mn) 0.05%Molybdenum (Mo) 0.0008%Chelated Zinc (Zn) 0.015%Derived from: Ammonium Molybdate,Ammonium Nitrate,CalciumCarbonate,Calcium Nitrate,Cobalt Nitrate,Copper EDTA, Iron DTPA, IronEDDHA, Iron EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Potassium Borate, Potassium Nitrate,and Zinc EDTA*30 mL General Hydroponic FloraBloom (0 nitrogenio, 5 fósforo e 4 de potássio):Available Phosphate (P2O5) 5%Soluble Potash (K2O) 4%Water Soluble Magnesium (Mg) 1.5%Combined Sulfur (S) 1.0%

    Derived from: Magnesium Phosphate, Phosphoric Acid, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Carbonate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Carbonate and Magnesium Sulfate.*3 mL SuperTHRIVE (ja tenho)*0.5 mL Clorox Bleach (alvejante)5.8 ou 6.0 de ph depois de adicionar tudo7582 degrees Fregular household bleach (Alvejante doméstico comum)new bottle of concentrated Chlorox has 8.25% sodium hypochloriteAdjust your formula for the amount of sodium hypochlorite that your Bleach has.At about 6% sodium hypochlorite, 1 mL will bring a 22 Gallon Rez to 1 PPM Chlorine. Being between 0.5 1 PPM Chlorine is a good place to be. If you have root problems, you will want to hold between 2 2.5 PPM Chlorine

    Soil runoff should be 6.0 6.5, hydro runoff should be 5.8 6.2. Coco should be somewhere in between soil and hydro.First I'd like to start out by stating that I do not use any gels or powders todip the cuttings. I don't dip any cuttings in anything. I also do not score or shave any part of the cutting whatsoever and I think that it is crazy to do that. All that I do is cut the cutting at a 45 degree angle with a pair of scissors and stick it in the EZ Clone 60.

    Before I place any cuttings into the cloner, I make sure that the cloner is 100% sterile. If it is not, I give 6 treatments of Erythromycin for 6 days. Once my

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    treatments are done and my cloner is rinsed out real well, I place new sprayers, tubing and neoprene and add 10 Gallons of tap water to the cloner.

    After I add 10 Gallons of tap water, I add:$cd /media/cdrom$wine instalar.exe

    Caso seja possível a emulação, deve inicializar a instalação do Software...

    Most people change to 12/12 depending on how much space they have left in the grow room. A typical sativa plant will grow 23x the size it was in veg when switched to flower, and an indica will grow 1.52x. Those numbers are very rough estimates though, as you can contain the plant with various growing methods (for example how you're scrogging).

    Another way to tell if your plants are 'ready to flower' is if they are showingalternating nodes (the nodes are no longer parallel) or if it is showing preflowers. That is usually nature's way of saying they are ready for 12/12.

    I would say, if you think you still have the space then keep on vegging! Nothing wrong with it. I've read numerous journals where vegging an extra 12 weeks rea

    lly impacted the end yield weight.I was personally going to switch my plants to 12/12 almost two weeks ago, and Iam really glad I let them veg a little longer. Not only are the side shoots starting to catch up to the top (to make more of a candelabra), but I have preflowers on all of my plants now.

    Dia 43 desce ppm to 680 for 2 days depois adiciona brewninguém e volta para 800ppmDay 55 of flower flushJoey Weed's Apollo 11 or C99 both under 8 weeks.http://hempdepot.ca/seeds/joeyweed/Apollo11.htmlhttp://hempdepot.ca/seeds/joeyweed/Cinderella99.htmlhttp://hempdepot.ca/seeds/joeyweed/Cinderella99xApollo11.html

    Tga's Jack the Ripper 89 weekshttp://hempdepot.ca/seeds/TGA/JacktheRipper.htmjack's cleaner 2 cinderella 99 & apollo 11Jack the Ripper

    É exatamente isso! A minha bomba fica ligada 100% do tempo, mas também pode fazer com temporizador automático até 60 segundos deligado cada 2 minutos com bomba ligada.Existe temporizadors que fazem exatamente isso.Se você usar Clonex, não se esqueça de fazer a metade da quantidade recomendada mais tambem funciona com a água pura, so demora ums 2/3 dias mais. Através os anos aprendi que não é ruim ter um pouco mais de fósforo, porque as plantas usam isso para criar seus sistemas de raiz.6.0 PH com NPK de 132 ajustado a 1.2 EC é perfeito para raízes.

    Fix your pH. It should be between 5.8 6.25.8I use a dirty scissor and snip a side brach off the doner plant & simply dip the end into cheap rooting powder and into a rapid rooter plug.. they then go intoa humid dome with a small CFL over it.. bam in 510days we got roots. no special watering for the mom, no special gel or angle cut, no heating pad etc. keep itsimple

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    Small amounts brewed at a time are best as the tea remains usable for 710 daysafter brewing (only if refrigerated to slow bacterial/fungal growth!). If unrefrigerated must be used immediately or the bennies fight amongst themselves and the biological diversity degrades.

    minimo para um bom harvest: planta precisa ter dois grandes galhos principais, no minimo 3 galhos abaixo destes, e mais 4 galhos que surgem dos 2 principais

    Flush your system with clean, pH'd water that contains about half the nutrientsneeded for the plant (including zinc, iron, and manganese).

    The thing that has always worked the better for me is to place the seed in a glass of water with 3 drops of hydrogen peroxide. I put the glass on top of the stereo amplifier so they are warm and cover them with the packaging, so I have them with their names and it suits as a greenhouse. In 36 hours max they all will germinate. I have corrected the water to PH 6.0.The Cannabis seedling growth stage lasts for about two to three weeks, from seed germination to (strong) root set.Properly maintained, some varieties of medical Cannabis will grow from half an inch to two inches per day.A plant stunted for any reason could take weeks to resume normal growth. A severely stunted plant may never fully recover.I veg with Promix BX under T5 HO, going with 1.6 EC of Jacks Pro 51226 and Calcium Nitrate for food. Spray them daily with BioAG fulvic Acid and SeaGreen. The

    y absolutely love it.stop applying the Kelp for around a week (around 3 weeks before harvest) Then for the last 2 weeks Feed with a Kelp + Molasses mixture. the Kelp will feed the Plants and the Molasses will feed the soil.The plant will believe it is dieing from a week of No nutrients, then when the Kelp is introduced it will cause the plant to put all of its energy into one final Burst of life.ALL flowering plants utilize the nutrients in kelp/seaweed, and it shows.I do use a Kelp extract powder as well as a fermented manure/seaweed/bacteria product, but I bought them in bulk and they cost literally cents per application every few weeks.Not sure where the confusion is coming from. Just mix your nutes at quarter or half strength. Considering your current habits this should put you around 600 PPM

    . Then keep topping at eighth or quarter strength until you hit 900 PPM.Ive been doing it Capn style with my latest batch (about a month in), but I actually grabbed coco croutons instead of rockwool chunks. Working fantastically!2 coisas primordiais para ter uma boa colheita: LUZ e UMA MASSA PESADA DE RAIZES (potes grandes, e métodos rentáveis de cultivo)If you dont want to do this every watering, grab a 50 gal drum and fill her up.

    Resumão Capn Style:Temperatura 7080 Degraus no Vegetativo e 5070% humidade. Ambiente frio e seco atrasam o crescimento.Colocar solução de 300400PPM nos clones de rockwool quando estiverem enraizados. Edebaixo de uma T5 ou CFLSubstrato: Rockwool (lã de rocha), Chips de COCO (coco croutons), Perlita, Carvão, P

    edrinhasChá de BrewNinguémwatered generously daily and topped in two more places (the two tallest branches).I simply water once a day with 500ppm nutrient, and use recharge or other beneficial bacteria, 23 times a week.What are, All the right things?1. Keep your environment temperature and humidity stable. A 1015 degree difference between night and day helps.2. Air circulation is a must. Dont blow your fan directly on your plants. If y

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    our plants are blowing in the wind, thats too much air. However, the air shouldbe moving in the veg room, in order to keep CO2 refreshed at the leaf surface.3. Top the tallest branches whenever possible. See how Im shaping these plantsinto a ice ice baby FLAT TOP, by doing nothing but topping? More on topping later.4. Pot size is key for rapid growth. This is one of the most common mistakes I see. I even see the pros, putting a little tiny plant, into a giant pot, and then they water it a LITTLE bit. This is so WRONG! This is how salt builds up, PH swings, and roots can drown. If yourre growing in rockwool, and your pot stillweighs a ton after 24 hours, YOUR POT IS TOO BIG. NO, youre not watering too much!You will get the maximum growth rate when you flood the roots with nutrients (with generous run off), then let the plant go until the medium is slightly dry (pot is noticeably lighter). The more often you can do this, the better. Thats why Capn Style growing, or rock wool in general, works so well. We can flood them often and generously. By flooding them, we wash out any salt build ups, and PH andppm stays more stable inside the root zone.Regar Generosamente uma ou duas vezes por diaI start with my additives, then add my base nutrients. So Ill just tell you my additives for now. You choose your own base.1ml/Armor Si, from start till flush. Up to 2ml/gal is ok if you need to raise PH.1ml/gal floralicious, from start till flush.4ml/gal florablend, from start till flush.

    4ml/gal calimagic, from start till flush.any bloom booster, in weeks 6, 7, and 8. 1/4 strengthBut most importantly, most of my success is because of beneficial bacteria. Before I started using it, my plants grew 1/2 as fast.

    . I've got 12 cxa 3070, 12 cxa 3590, 3 10x24 heat sinks, cob holders, 3 pure 20fans, 3 rhino ac adapters.

    5ml of gh rapid start and 3ml of superthrive , i use a 24 site turbo kloner, 5 day roots with some strainssomething to take into consideration here when cloning not all strains are crea

    ted equal!!! some strains wont clone for shit as others will try to jump into apot and plant themselves regardless of the method, medium, or rooting agents usedWater. If I have an aloe leaf handy I will dip it in fresh aloe goo. I started getting faster results when I stopped adding rooting compounds.

    Once you decide that your tea is complete, turn off the aerator. Because compost tea is a living, biological product, it doesnt keep well after the air is turned off, so make sure you use it within 46 hours once you turn off your pump.You're supposed to use the compost tea within 2436 hrs., NOT "4 days later." MASSIVE FAIL

    Cloning process

    Maxicrop liquid seaweedB1H20

    Oh remember check your ph after adding fertilizer!

    1) Take your cuttings!3) Soak in a cup of water & superthrive2) Begin filling cloner with new units

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    3) Complete filling cloner4) Plug in pump, fogger!5) Mist cuttings

    It takes a little longer then a store bought solution!814 days for healthy cutting establishes healthy root system!

    6) Remove cuttings and add to medium!

    Oque eu usei pra conseguir a green poison oneTerra adubo de curral terra nobre R$1,00alconBASIC MEP 200 Complex R$4,10Enraizador Forth R$14,00Fertilizante Foliar Forth Fosway Tecnutri do Brasil R$ 9,00

    Benerva cloridrato de tiamina 300mg 30 comprimidosSuperThrive R$ 19,99

    Recipe for Success1 2.0 cubic foot bag of Happy Frog soil (Trocar por um solo bom e barato brasileiro)3 cups of General Organics Ancient Forest Alaskan Humus (Trocar por qualquer humus)2 cups of Earthworm castings (Trocar por qualquer humus)2 tablespoons of Recharge (Fazer o Heisenberg tea simples no lugar)Mix Well!This is a soil recipe made by one of the best online growers named Koma. Koma used Oregonism XL but I substituted it with Recharge.

    Oque eu ainda devo usar:Azamax (azadirachtin product) pra matar as fungus gnats misturar antes no solo I start seeds in 1620 oz solo cups of just Happy Frog soil, feeding them onlyRecharge and enzymes for the first 2 weeks.The ideal pH range for this mix to water in is 6.56.8 with 6.6 or 6.7 being optimal.After exactly 2 weeks they will be transplanted into a 1 or 2 gallon pot of Happy Frog soil plus amendments for 3 weeks exactly to veg then transplanted into their final containers, I use 7 gallon pots to flower in.The soil recipe is great for cannabis and with the added humus and castings help the plants grow throughout veg without the need for much fertilizer.

    Beneficial Bacteria Tea:

    You can use the RECHARGE every day, once a week, whatever you like. Ive been using it every day, and these are my results after only two weeks:If youre using synthetic nutrients (not organic) it is best to pour the tea, at the base of the stalk, after you have watered with nutrients. Synthetic nutrients dont necessarily kill beneficial bacteria, but the salty nutrients are not idea for the bennies.Dont worry about using too much.Dont worry if you get it on the leaves, it wont hurt them.Any EWC will give you a good base of microbes.Any product or combo of products which contain mycos, bacillus, and trichoderma

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    will do the trick.The exception is AN microbe products. Stay away from AN microbe products!Do not use tea with h202, sm90, Zone or any type of sterilizing product. Do not filter tea beyond 400 microns.Can I run a perpetual batch of tea?No. The key to fighting slime is a diverse microbe population. No matter what you do to your brew, diversity will peak and begin to decline around the 48 hour mark.Leftover tea can be refrigerated for use up to 710 days. The cold will slow down biological activity and keep the population diverse. If tea starts to smell like anything besides "mossy" or "earthy", throw it away. Especially if it smellslike shit.

    Aquashield ($12) The product composition consists of: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. This gives you a base population of beneficial bacteria. (Aquashield can be replaced by anyinoculation that contains bacillus bacteria.)

    ZHO Powder ($10) The product composition consists of: Glomus intradices, Glomusaggregatum, Glomus etunicatum, Glomus mosseae, Trichoderma harzianum, and Trichoderma koningii. This gives you a base populartion of beneficial fungi. (ZHO can

    be replaced by any inoculation that contains myco fungi)Ancient Forest ($14) Soil amendment provides a high diversity of microorganisms, including more than 35,000 species of bacteria and over 5,000 species of fungi. (AF can be replaced by any earth worm casting)

    EDIT* Mycogrow soluble is the cheapest and most diverse inoculant we have found. It can replace everything here except the ancient forest.The recipe is really simple. Start with nonchlorinated water. I make 2 gallonsat a time, but you can easily adjust the additives for whatever amount you wishto make. Now put the water into a bucket and throw in a couple air stones. The more air the better. You want the water to be almost turbulent from the bubbles.Now, add 1530ml of aquashield and about 1/41/2 scoop of the ZHO powder. You wi

    ll be breeding these into the billions so it doesn't really matter how much youstart with, just don't overdo it. Now take an old sock or pantyhose and fill itwith about 2 handfuls of EWC or Ancient Forest. Tie off the sock and place it in the water above an air stone, or better yet, feed an air stone down into the sock itself. If you want, you can just throw the EWC directly into the water and strain it out later with cheesecloth or even an aquarium net. Next, add about a tablespoon of molasses to wake up the microbes and give them something to eat. We will only be feeding the microbes in this tea; never add food for the microbesto the res itself. It's okay if the bennies in the res starve. You will be replacing them every few days. Now let the tea bubble at room tempeture for 48 hours. It can be used after 24, but will be more active and diverse at 48. If you useEWC you will probably notice a foam eventually, this is normal. After 48 hours you can store the tea in the fridge where it will stay fresh for about 10 days. O

    nce it starts to go bad it will develop an odor. If you ever detect an odor from your tea, throw it out and make a new batch. Fresh tea can have a range of smells from earthy to mossy to shroomy. Bad tea smells like gym socks, fecal matter, or decay.

    Initially, add about 1 cup to your res for every gallon of water, and then add 1 cup total every 3 days after. If you can, pour a little over the base of the stalk to inoculate the root crown. Your water might get a little cloudy but your roots will stay white and stimulated. When you use tea and practice proper res maintenance you can feel confident your roots will be healthy. By multiplying the

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    microbes this way your products should last a great deal longer. Once you have eradicated slime and simply want protection from future outbreaks, adjust the tea dosage to 1 cup per 10 gallons about once per week.

    If you are interested in why the tea works, or what products you may use for substitution, continue reading the rest of the thread. It is a journey I took withothers to learn a great more about the tea. If you want to see how I use this tea in a cloner

    Try that with dirt! Impossible! In this nutrient mix, Im using floralicious, florablend, and liquid seaweed, yet the roots are still pearly white, thanks to RECHARGE. Im not doing anything magical here. I simply water once a day with 500ppm nutrient, and use recharge or other beneficial bacteria, 23 times a week.5. Irrigate generously, once or twice a day. Water your plants, (by hand or auto pump) and let the run off go into a reservoir. Reuse that water for a week, then start with new water again. I pour at least a gallon of water into a #2 pot and let it all run through.What would they say? Clean up those dead leaves on the floor, shade that reservoir from light, get your temp and humidity where it needs to be!I start with my additives, then add my base nutrients. So Ill just tell you my additives for now. You choose your own base.1ml/Armor Si, from start till flush. Up to 2ml/gal is ok if you need to raise PH

    .1ml/gal floralicious, from start till flush.4ml/gal florablend, from start till flush.4ml/gal calimagic, from start till flush.any bloom booster, in weeks 6, 7, and 8. 1/4 strengthBut most importantly, most of my success is because of beneficial bacteria. Before I started using it, my plants grew 1/2 as fast.

    30ml H2o2/GalSpray leaves, use the remainder to water with. Mold will be a nonissue.The preventative measure is the same as the fix.

    Usei alcool 99%, comprei em uma loja que vende para fazer perfumes e culinária !!!Estou usando misturando 4 ou 5 gotas no café, não consigo colocar embaixo na linguaporque queima legal !O Gosto também é ruim para tomar puro.O massa mesmo é misturar uma dose mais forte com licor de menta !!! O dia todo tranquilo sob o efeito da cannabis, isso mesmo o dia todo !!

    RECOMENDO DEMAIS !!!

    Vamos a explicar paso por paso, como hacer en casa un té de banana perfecto para que nuestras plantas de marihuana puedan aprovechar todos sus nutrientes. Comenzamos viendo los ingredientes que vamos a necesitar para su elaboración:

    4 ó 5 cascaras de plátanos maduros (solo las cascaras, el plátano lo podéis comer)2 cucharadas de melaza de caña de azúcar (esto es opcional)1 litro de aguaLo primero que haremos es poner el agua en un cazo o cazuela y ponerla a calentar. Cuando el agua este hirviendo (saque burbujas), añadiremos las cascaras de plátano previamente cortadas (troceadas).

    Dejaremos que el agua hierva durante quince minutos junto con las cascaras de plátano bien troceadas. De forma opcional (aunque recomendable) añadiremos dos cuchar

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    adas de caña de melaza de azúcar (si no tenemos, podemos usar miel normal) y dejaremos cocer.

    Cuando hayan finalizado los quince minutos, retiraremos la cazuela o cazo del fuego y dejaremos que se enfríe a su ritmo.

    Una vez que el agua se haya enfriado, separaremos el agua de las cascaras cocidas con la ayuda de un colador. Podemos tirar las cascaras a la basura, solo necesitamos el agua de cocción.

    Ahora ya tenemos 1 litro de té de banana concentrado listo para ser usado. Lo recomendable, es diluir este litro de té de plátano concentrado en dos litros de agua, de forma que tendremos tres litros de abono de floración listos para ser usados. De igual forma si solo necesitas un poco menos, puedes diluir medio litro de concentrado en un litro de agua, teniendo un litro y medio listo para ser usado. El medio litro que sobraría, se puede guardar en la nevera (refrigerador) por unos díassin problemas.

    Es muy recomendable medir y calibrar el PH (acidez del agua) antes de regar, yaque las plantas absorben mucho mejor los nutrientes del agua con el PH calibrado.

    Usa rega sim, rega não

    Puedes bajar el ph con zumo de limón, con vinagre o con ácido (de los que venden específicos en Grow Shops). Si necesitas subirlo, puedes usar también un ácido especifico de venta en Grows.Un medidor de PH digital es lo mas recomendable, los tienes por diez pavos en ebay.Saludos

    Por poneros un ejemplo, un cultivo en crecimiento en tierra, precisará de un PH de agua de riego de 6.2 y una EC de 0.4 de media, subiendo hasta un máximo de 1.2 cuando apliquemos abono. En coco es diferente, el PH debe rondar el 5.8 y la EC entre 0.8 y 1.2 en todos los riegos.

    No es necesario abonar hasta la 3ª semana de crecimiento, si cultivamos en tierra,

     ya que esta posee todos los nutrientes necesarios.

    La humedad relativa durante la etapa de crecimiento debe situarse entorno al 70%  80% en nuestro armario / espacio de cultivo, de esta forma conseguiremos que nuestras plantas estén siempre bien hidratadas y puedan centrar toda su energía en elcrecimiento.

    Logo após a colheita, é de extrema importância que tenha paciência para o processo de scagem, pois ela é uma etapa bastante importante também. Um método fácil é colocar seus s em um recipiente hermeticamente fechado e abrir de 3 em 3 dias para virar os camarões, evitando o mofo. Após 4 semanas, sua Maconha já está pronta para ser consumida Caso queire ainda uma maconha mais saborosa, você pode deixar mais alguns dias dentro do frasco, pois neste tempo, ela perde um pouco o gosto amargo e se torna m

    ais apreciável quando fumada!

    Botrytis thrives in a humid, cold and dark environment. Keep the temperature above 18°C/64°F. 1216°C (5560°F) is the danger zone and should be avoided. Make sure youhave good ventilation. Use a oscillating fan to circulate the air around the plant. Use a dehumidifier to keep the humidity at 2550%. See more at: http://windowsillweed.com/pestsanddiseasesbudrotbotrytis/#sthash.QfqiuFsJ.dpuf

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    GALERA... Vou postar aqui como fiz a minha e ficou Muiiiiitoooooooo TOPP.Comprei 20 reais de verde.. 20 gramas. prenssadão! unica alternativa!triturei no liquidificador. Outras vezes dechavel nao mao, e cortei com tesoura.. dana mesmaaa.!Coloquei o verde dechavado dentro de um pequeno vidro de concerva. adicionei alcoool cereal...Paguei 15 reais no litro! em casa de produtos naturais!Coloquei o alcool ate passar um dedo acima do verde...Então coloquei dentro de uma panela com agua no fogão. e deixei fervendo por 25 minutos,,. apos começar a borbulhar.. cuidando para nao aquecer de mais!alternava entre fogo alto e baixo! Coei.... Deu 20ml de tintura.. coloquei em um vidrinho de colirio vazio mesmo.. Recomendo! discreto e portatil!No total, da 570 gotas! Sim Eu contei! Eu uso da seguinte forma..10 gotas.. Levee13 gotas. booom.15 gotas , FORTE.Acima dissoo.Paaaaaaannnnnncadaaaaa! Na primeira vez q fiz. usei 15, e a onde bate leve,, some.. e volta mt forte.. e eu nao sabia! ai tomei 15, bateu leve, passou, e eu tomei mais 13... MEWWWW DEU

    SSS!Tive que ligar para um amigo me ajudar! Eu nao conseguia sair do chaoooo! FIcava deitado rindo de mim!Eu ouvia eco no meu pensamentoo! NÂO! NÂO FOI LEGAL!!!!! kkkk Gente, eu pingo as 13 gotas em um pouco de suco.. de manha. ou no pão com doce deleite.ou em uma bolacha passatempo!Em qualquer coisa. geralmente refeiçoes pequenas, e em jejum!Importante..... PIntem o vidro de preto. ou enrrolem fita isolante ao redor do recipiente... pq perde thc na luz.Qualquer duvida chama! 

    OBS. Apos fazer a tintura, guarde o verde de novo. pq da para fazer mais uma vez!E usei um filtro de papel de passar café!

    Você está usando flor fêmea de cannabis ou prensado ? Com as flores resinadas eu sempre tive sucesso. 1 bud em 1 dose de cachaça por 2 semanas da pra ficar louco o diatodo !

    What You'll Need

    Herb Grinder or Food Processor1 Quart bowlMesh strainerCheese clothKitchen scaleQuart canning jar with lidDark tint tincture bottles with droppersPaper coffee filters1 ounce of buds or stemless shake per quart of alcoholThe highest proof alcohol you can get your hands on. It should be at least 90 pr

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    oof, though 151 or Everclear is preferable.

    Instructions: (Crock Pot Method)1. Set the crock pot to low. If possible, keep the crock pot on a Keep Warm setting; some crock pots will burn the tincture even at a low setting so take warning! If you are worried, try the Clear Jar method (see below).2. Grind up your cannabis as finely as possible using the coffee grinder or blender.3. Place the glycerin and the cannabis in the crock pot.4. Let sit for 6  24 hours.5. Let cool.6. Strain with cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer (a paper coffee filter will not work!). This will be a long process because the glycerin is very slow movingand sticky. It is well worth it though!

    Instructions: (Clear Jar Method)1. Grind up your cannabis as finely as possible using the coffee grinder or blender. 24 watt, high output T5 light

    LED / T5HO Lighting"Lighting is extremely important when it comes to the health and growth rate ofyour plants."

    At Grow Box USA, we tested many, many lights before finding the perfect combination. We found the best performing lighting combo is a T5HO in the vegetative chamber and stateoftheart, custom spec LEDs in the fruiting/flowering chamber. We're so confident you'll have outstanding results when using our LED Lights that we cover them with an industry exclusive moneyback guarantee!Learn more about guaranteed results with our advanced LED lighting. »

    We don't use your typical cheap, off the shelf LED lights. Grow Box USA's standard UFO style LED lights feature 9way, 3 watt diodes built to our specs, advanced deep penetration lenses, an aluminum chassis, the most powerful and robust power supplies along with double ball bearing cooling fans. All this adds up to a q

    uiet, reliable, and extremely effective light. We have had great success with our UFOs, they will not disappoint!

    DuoDrive LED LightingWe are proud to introduce the best LED Lighting money canbuy Grow Box USAs new for 2015 DuoDrive LED series feature 11way, 5 wattdiodes that are switchable between vegetative and blooming growth!

    Now standard on all tents and an option on most grow boxes, DuoDrive LED Lights feature efficient and reliable 11way, double chip 5 watt diodes in Grow Box USA tested and approved spectrums (UVA, UVB, Infrared and more). DuoDrive LEDsare also switchable between vegetative and blooming growth making these the most modern and uptodate LED lights available.

    Standard features include the highest quality double ball bearing thermostatically controlled fans, large aluminum heat sinks, 750mA Driving Current, isolated LED drivers and robust power supplies. Add in a full three year warranty and youwill find these are the most effective and reliable LEDs on the market!

    DuoDrive Switchable LED grow lights are available in five sizes:

    LED Wattage/QuantityActual DrawHID Equivalent

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    Dimensions240 Watts (48x5w)135w200w17.25" x 7" x 3.25"360 Watts (72x5w)180w250w24.5" x 7" x 3.25"480 Watts (96x5w)250w400w32" x 7" x 4.25"720 Watts (144x5w)370w700w32.5" x 9.5" x 3.25"1200 Watts (240x5w)

    610w

    1000w

    32" x 14.5" x 3.25"

    Choose our optional 28 watts of T5 or 42 watts of LED side lighting for even bigger fruits and vegetables low on your plants! (Available on most full size boxes while 42 watt T5 or 84 watt LED side lighting is standard on most single chamber models.)

    LED vs METAL HALIDE/HIGH PRESSURE SODIUMWe know many of the old time growers swear by HPS/MH, and yes, they work very well. The biggest drawbacks to these old school lights are high bulb cost, extreme heat and high power consumption. The reason LEDs use less power and generate very little heat is they only produce light in the spectrum that plants can absorb; MH/HPS emit the full light range, much of which plants cannot use. LED lighting has come a long way over the last few years, most people that have had bad LED

     experiences have used cheap or older designs.

    2. Place the glycerin and the cannabis in 1 or more clear, glass jars. A well sealed cap is crucial.3. Place in a window or another sunny location and let it sit there for 3 to 5 weeks. Shake it each day to help release the desired cannabinoids.4. Strain with cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer (a paper coffee filter will not work!). This will be a long process because the glycerin is very slow movingand sticky. It is well worth it though!

    [Derek Butt's Small Batch Preview Method]

    This method is fasttinctures can be produced in as little as an hourand uses onlysmall amounts of precursor but comes at the expense of potency. Still, it's a great way to go if you want to try tinctures but don't want to gamble an ounce ofbud on it.

    Thoroughly dry and grind 4 grams of bud and/or trimmings.Bake the plant matter at 240 degrees in an ovensafe dish for 2030 minutes to decarboxylate it.Submerge the plant matter in 2 ounces of highproof alcohol, stir, and cover tig

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    i tried the yeast and sugar , but find the baking soda/ vinegar works very well.... when using this method , lay out a paper toweland spread about 1/4 cup of baking soda , then roll it up and drop into 1 gal container about 20% full of vinegar ... everyso often , shake and you get more co2 , eventually , you will add more vinegar and start all over .. vent the co2 while yourun a small fan ...*** something i just discovered to do with my shark steam cleaner ... raise humidity in the grow room and mist the plants too !!!the steam is super hot about 1/8" from the nozzle .. at 2 inches , it's just a cool mist ... so i turn o the fan and steamer fora few minutes , shut the door and relax ..

    ron, vodka, whisky, ginebraTransplante da mother poison realizado no dia 5/4/2015Retirada do terceiro clone 5/4/2015 ás 6:42

    4 mL General Hydroponics Flora Series Micro6 mL General Hydroponics Flora Series Bloom10 mL Technaflora Thrive Alive B1 (RED)

    ALL THESE RATES ARE PER GALLON OF WATER AND THE SOLUTION IS PH'D TO 5.8Thrive Alive seria:Total Nitrogen (N) 1%0.5% Ammoniacal Nitrogen0.3% Nitrate Nitrogen0.2% Water Soluble NitrogenAvailable Phosphate (P2O2) 1.0%Soluble Potash Potash (K2O) 1.0%

    Cómo preparar tintura de cannabis

    Para hacer tintura de cannabis necesitarás:¾ partes del recipiente lleno de hojas y flores.El resto debe llenarse con alcohol, dejando un poco de espacio.Revolvemos, y luego agitamos dos veces al día durante dos semanas. Finalmente colamos.

    a point about freezing. I dont see any higher thc in freezing, and thats not really the purpose of it. I use ever clear, for maximum effect, and soak for at least ten days.The alcohol is a polarized detergent, that melts or whatever the thc. the 5% water in the ever clear is an oppositely polarized detergent, which works on the chlorophyll and plant matter.so if you want clear, better tasting honey looking tincture, freeze everything.

    if you want stronger, better medicating tincture, let it sit, room temp. it should look dark green and taste like ass when your done.Peróxido de hidrogênioComposto químicoO peróxido de hidrogénio ou peróxido de hidrogênio que, em solução aquosa, é conhecido almente como água oxigenada, é um líquido claro de fórmula química H2O2. WikipédiaFórmula: H2O2Densidade: 1,45 g/cm³Massa molar: 34,0147 g/molIUPAC: dihydrogen dioxide

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    Ponto de ebulição: 150,2 °CPonto de fusão: 0,43 °C

    ps, also i decarboxolate after the aging process, i dont recommend it for newbies cuz it can be dangerous if you dont mind your highly flammable alcohol, but it makes the best stuff. good luck all, and no comments plz. if anyone feels like critiquing me, plz control the urge. good day.

    Greg February 6, 2014 at 1:38 pm Hi,Tried this the other day, good result.3.2 grams Sour Diesel, dried, powdered.Heat 1/2 fl. oz. vegetable glycerin to 375 F, stir in herb in small (1/8 tsp.) increments. Will foam up a bit.Stir for another 5 minutes after last herb added.Herb should be getting dark.Strain WHILE STILL HOT through 70 micron stainless steel mesh.Take solids from strainer, mix into another 1/2 fl. oz. glycerin at 375 F.Cook, repeat straining.Combine liquids, allow to cool; dark brownorange milky looking product.MUCH thicker that pure glycerin.1 eyedropper is usually enough for relaxing, two is fun. Three? Dont go to work.Theory sez THC vapes at 370 F, catch vapors in a liquid. Seems to work!Liquid vape!

    rega na mother 29/03/2015 ás 19:00

    Green Poison Clone:Retirada dos 3 clones 26/03/2015 ás 8:20Enraizamento dos 3 clones

    Tintura de Cannabis:use the oven at like 175200 for 15 min! Preheat your oven to 225 F (110 C). DoNOT exceed 300 F (150 C) to prevent letting your precious THC vaporize!Place the crumbled marijuana in the ovensafe container, and bake for 45 minutes. 30 minutes will often suffice, but if the container is rather thickwalled, it

     will take some time to come up to temperature.Coador de aluminioPote de vidroVodka ou Gliscerina vegetalYeah, at 250, you still need to bake it for a good 15 min. Did you pread it outon a cookie sheet, or just all packed together? It has to be speard out, and end up really crispy...

    Grow [email protected]

    1 Gallon = 3.78541178 liters =3 785.41178 milliliters

    Ultimate Grow Room Upgrade kit2 x Can Fan 300 CFM1 x Can Fan 150 CFM1 gerador de ozonio1 lampada de metal halide1 lampada HPSO ar entra diretamente do quarto no grow pela FAN 300CFM

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    O calor das lampadas é jogado pra fora do quartoO filtro de carvão ativado é ligado a outra fan 300CFMEsta por sua vez é ligada por tubo ao gerador de ozonioOutro tubo liga o gerador a saida no teto da casaPotes normaishidro halosLightingIn VEG, you will need about 400W, no less than 250W. Use several T5 high output50006500K bulbs, but preferably, a Metal halide in a cool tube is the best wayto go because you can duct the light heat out of the room. Lights on 18 hrs, off 6 hours.

    Q. Do you flush your plants before harvest? If so, is it necessary to use a flushing agent?

    A. Flush: Yes, Flushing Agent: No. When growing in grodan grow cubes, heres how I flush. When I start to see amber trics, I run about 5 gallons of water throughthe medium (to waste) to flush out the nutrients. I turn off whatever irrigation system I have been running (ebb and flow or RTF, recirculating top feed). For the next 5 days, I run another few gallons of plain RO water through the medium,to waste. Usually on the 6th day, I harvest. Its not necessary to use any flushing agents.

    if you want to run a sweet product in hydroponics, such as flora nectar or botanicare sweet (and others), you could do it in the last couple weeks, right before flush.

    Nutrientes:1 CALMAG

    2 GOLD RANGE:

    PARTE A (Floração):

    Total Nitrogen (N) = 4% de nitrato de nitrogenio (nitrate) azoto nítricoSolutable Potash (K2O) = 4% PotassioCalcio (Ca) = 1.5%Magnésio (Mg) = 0.5% Water Soluble MagnesiumCobre (Cu) = 0.001% Chelated CopperFerro (Fe) = 0.03% Chelated IronManganese (Mn) = 0.001% Chelated manganeseZinco(Zn) = 0.001% Chelated Zinc

    PARTE B (Vega):Nitrogenio total =1% 0.7% Nitrato de nitrogenio 0.3% Nitrogenio AmoniacoPhosphato disponivel = 2% p2o3Solutable Potash K2O = 4%

    Magnésio Mg = 0.9% (Soluvel em agua)Sulfur (S) = 1% Combined SulfurBoro (B) = 0.007%Cobre (Cu) = 0.001% (Quelado)Manganese (Mn) = 0.01% (Quelado)Molybdenum (Mo) = 0.001%Zinco (Zn) = 0.01%

    Dosagem da strength:

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    Medir o EC TDSAgressiva = adicionar 5ml de ambos A e B por litro de aguaou 19ml de ambos por gallon de aguaStandard (para plantas menores) = 3.5ml de ambos por litro de aguaou 13ml de ambos por gallon.Ajuste o PH para 5.55.8Diluir um de cada vez na agua e não os dois juntos misturados

    3 FLORABLEND (0.511)Booster de plantas veganoFermentado de uma seleção de materiais de plantas junto com Algas Marinhas e Fosfato de rochas (azomite)Pode usar durante a germinação, com ramos recem cortados de clones, no vegetativo floração e colheita

    Para hidroponia: misturar a quantidade de nutrientes usual e ai adicione 5 a 10ml por 4 litros (1 a 2 colheres por gallon)Para o solo: Adicione de 5 a 10ml para 4 litros de agua (1 a 2 colheres por gallon) e ai aplica nas regas alternadasGuardar em ambiente frio e escuro! Total Nitrogen (N) = 0.5% 0.02% Water Insoluble Organic Nitrogen e 0.48% Water Soluble Organic NitrogenPhosphate (p2o5) 1%

    Soluble Potash (k2o) 1%Derivado de: Alfafa Meal (Farinha de alfafa), Brewers yeast(levedura de cerveja) , cottonseed meal (farelo/torta de algodão), potassium sulfate (sulfato de potássio),rock phosphate (fosfato de rocha),sea kelp (farinha de algas), solybean meal (farinha de soja)

    4 ARMOR SI (004) 946ml (1 QUART) 2.33lbsSoluble Potash (K2O) 4%Derivado de silicato de potássiocontém também 10% de silicon dioxide (Sio2) derivado do silicato de potássio e não utilzado pelas plantasAdicione na agua fresca primeiro. misture enquanto estiver adicionando. depois a

    dicione o fertilizante de preferenciaAjuste o PH de 5.5 á 6.5Força Menos é mais: adicione 1/4 de colher por gallon (.25 por litro)Força Total: adicione 1/2 colher por gallon (.5ml por litro)Força Máxima: adicione 1 colher por gallon (1ml por litro)Spray Foliar: adicione 1/4 á 1/2 de colher por gallonEle é extremamente alcalino e vai subir o ph da solução de nutrientes, quanto mais colocar mais sobre o ph. Não deixe o pH passar de 6.5

    You can use the RECHARGE every day, once a week, whatever you like. Ive been using it every day, and these are my results after only two weeks:

    1. Start with a pitcher of R.O. water (or distilled). Most city tap water has

    chlorine in it, which may kill beneficial bacteria.beneficial tea concoction of Mycos, aquashield, zho, and ancient forest, and molasses once a week.2. Pour in a teaspoon of RECHARGE, and stir.Since then, Ive been making the tea once a week. Its a pain in the ass. To start, it costs almost $100 just for all the ingredients. Then, I add all the ingredients to a bucket of water and aerate for 48 hours. Then I use the tea on my plants. The tea lasts for 48 hours, and after that, the microbes die off, and I start over again. My roots are amazing, when I use the tea. If I skip tea for a couple weeks, my roots are NO longer amazing.

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    Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dryfeelingflowers onto a screen and collect primequality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

    Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers digital and analog this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

    +70% RH too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 1224 hours, depending.

    6570% RH the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 24 hours.

    6065% RH the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

    5560% RH at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

    Below 55% RH the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the prod

    uct wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for longterm storage, give the flowers 45 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading willshow within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

    As I said I'm a newbie, I found it extremely hard to figure out if I was doing the cure right, this takes out the guess work.

    After I got the hygrometers I tested some stash that had been sitting in jars (luckily in the cold) for months, I thought it was doing great. The rh was over 70%. If it had been warmer that stuff would have been lost to mold.

    A cautionary note, I tried using normal cheapo temp/humidity gauges, they don'tread correctly in small enclosed spaces I guess, the rh readings were off by more than 20%. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish, get a Cal III. Get several. I like to have one for each 4 jars so I can keep a close eye on things. You needto leave them in there 24 hours later in the cure to get good readings.

    I get great results with a quick cure.

    Trim all buds, cutting them off all branches. Place buds into a brown paper bag, close up, and place in grow room. I leave my grow room growing plants, so lights are on and all that. After about 3 days, when buds are almost completely dry,I place them into mason jars.

    I set the lids on the jars, not screw them on. I place the jars in a cool dark place. Three days later, I take the buds out or just shake them around gently. Then I let them sit for another 3 days in the cool dark place. Then I take them out again, return them to the jar, and this time close the lid.

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    I open the lid after a day or two to be sure the buds are not getting moist again. If so, I leave the lid on but not screwed on for a few more days.

    I have been curing like that for a long time now, one thing though, I have never used a hygrometer... I just wait till the stems are still bendable but not snappy... then throw them in a glass jar and juts keep an eye on them, you'll know soon if you have too much moisture still in the flowers... if so , juts open thelid for a while and then try it again.

    Another difference, once I have the bud in the jar, I really don't think the kief is going to get lost while being trapped in the jar :/

    Clones retirados da mother 27 de fevereiro de 2015

    Solo a prova de Falha!!

    500 grs de Sphagnum (Achei em lojas de 1 real e no mercadolivre, obviamente porpreços diferentes e qualidade também)500 grs de Perlita misturo com um pouco de areia de gato daquelas que servem como adubo, em forma de pedrinhas brancas (perlita só pela internet e em lojas de grow mesmo)500 grs de fibra de coco (Lojas de plantas e bonsais ou pela internet e loja de

    grow)500 grs de composto (Tem no google explicando como se faz)500 grs de humus de minhoca (Lojas de pet ou pela internet, ou cria um minhocário)100 grs de vermiculita (opcional) (lojas de Plantas e pela internet)Uma colher medida de Calcáreo dolomitico (Cobasi, loja de plantas e também pela internet)4 colheres medida de Mucilon (isso mesmo! aqueles de mingau pra bebê, encontrado em mercados)4 colheres medida de Farinha de Algas (Spirulina (acha em pet shop ou cobasi) +Alga Nori (acha em mercado municipal, lá na liberdade ou em lojas de artigos japoneses))4 colheres medida de Farinha de Sangue (Loja de artigos para pesca ou pela internet)

    2.5 colheres de Farinha de Alfafa (pet shops especializados em todos os tipos de animais, como coelhos ou outros roedores)2 colheres de calcáreo de conchas e/ou cascos de siri (Achei na cobasi)Um pouco de Azomite (não muito!) (esse aqui tem revendedor oficial no Brasil, eles vendem no mercadolivre)Pode precisar de chá aeróbico compostado no meio da floração (entre a terceira e quartasemana)Usar agua aerada 24h e rega com um pouquinho de oleo de neem pra compostarDeixa de 3 a 4 semanas compostando

    Versão pra mother e clones:100 grs de Sphagnum100 grs de Perlita

    100 grs de fibra de coco100 grs de composto100 grs de humus de minhoca50 grs de vermiculita (opcional)meia colher medida de Calcáreo dolomitico1 colher medida de Mucilon1 colher de farinha de algas1 colher de farinha de sangue1.5 colher de farinha de alfafa1 colher de calcáreo de conhas

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    um pouquinho de azomiteUsar agua aerada 24h e regaDeixa de 3 a 4 semanas compostando

    Medicinais do mau:Jack the RipperVortex

    In the ideal cannabis dryingroom environment, your buds take anywhere from 214 days to dry properly, depending on how much water content they start with, andthe size, density and shape of your buds.

    When the bud itself is dry but not crispy, and its stalk bends but does not easily or quickly break when youre bending it, thats when its properly dried.

    Many growers overdry their buds, which harms the crucial second step (curing), because buds need to retain an adequate level of moisture to make curing successful. So remember, if you slightly underdry your buds, you can at least fix thatby drying them more. If you overdry your buds, its hard if not impossible to effectively rehydrate them.

    using foliar spray of mildew cure and neem oil @ twice the recomended amount. Because it is possible to cause bud rot, use every 2 weeks up until the 5th week w

    ith extra fans and dehumidifying to prevent rot. Post grow how ever you kinda stuck with what you have after the bath, dry, cure... Make edibles or smoke it ull be fine.

    Técnica experimental 1: colocar seeds imaturas em bolsas de seeds maduras esperando que elas maturem tambémTécnica experimental 2: dobrar as folhas pro lado além de removelas, propiciando mais luz aos buds (algo semelhante a defoliar a planta)

    wash it out with isopropyl alcohol, let it evaporate on a glass dish, and scrape up the golden oil left over. quick wash iso hash taken from dry sift kief is usually exceedingly high quality, and very enjoyable

    get some 99% ISO alc or whatever % u can find , swish it around till it gets dissolved into the iso , then pour onto pyrex dish and let it all evaporate then scrape it up with razor.this method works like a charm! go with that!u should have iso around anyways , sterilize your razor blades , and scissors .its only 2$ for 99%it only takes like 20min....Warm milk and a bit of butter

    Solo a prova de Falha!!

    500 grs de Sphagnum = 500 gramas

    500 grs de Perlita com um pouco de Lava Rock (Areia de gato no lugar) = 500 gramas500 grs de fibra de coco500 grs de composto500 grs de humus de minhoca500 grs de vermiculita = 100 gramas aquiUma colher medida de Calcáreo dolomitico4 colheres medida de Mucilon4 colheres medida de Farinha de Algas (Spirulina + Alga Nori)4 colheres medida de Farinha de Sangue

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    2.5 colheres de Farinha de Alfafa2 colheres de calcáreo de conchas e/ou cascos de siriUm pouco de Azomite (não muito!)

    Pode e deve levar um chasinho compostado no meio da floração (entre a terceira e quarta semana de floração)Usar agua com aeração dessa vez e rega com um pouquinho de oleo de neemDeixa de 3 a 4 semanas compostando

    heres a good starter base mix that can be recycled. I love this mix and has done me right every time.

    2 gallons plain sphagnum peat2 gallons chunky perlite+ i like to toss a little lava rock in with this2 gallons hydrated coco2 gallons high quality compost2 gallons high quality earthworm castings2 gallons (optional) vermiculite1/4 heaping cup of POWDERED dolomite lime

    2 cups kelp meal2 cups high N bat guano2 cups high P bat guano

    1.5 cups alfalfa meal.5 cups oystershell

    34 weeks composting time.

    i also toss a handful of crabshell, neem seed meal, and a little azomite into it.

    i would start with the top list and as soon as you get a feel for that mix, addin the crabshell, neem, and azomite. that base mix will kill it.

    may need to topdress and or a good compost tea midflower depending on strain, environment, etc.

    edit this is a water only mix basically through out the plants entire life. and remember the water needs to be chlorine free. I recommend using aerated tap water. aerated at least 24 hrs. i get best results this way with tap water.

    every watering use 1/4 1/2 tsp dyna gro protekt silica per gallon h2o.

    clones can be planted directly into this mix as well. i rec. using a good compost tea to kick things off after theyre planted.dont let this soil completely dry out between waterings. leave it a little moist prior to the next watering. there are tricks here and there youll learn as time goes by. and eventually youll get it all dialed in.

    Not cool man. My buddy put his shit in the freezer and it pisses me off. Purpling plants are an indication of potassium deficiencies which will harm your plants general health and potency.Growing them healthy and purple however, requires a potassium antisulfate. I beleive its called potassium hydroxide or peroxide. "freezing" your plants is a terrible act of gardening and is scandalous. Anyone whos seen it can tell the difference btween a correctly grown purp and "freezer weed" Its like pouring Odouls

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    into a budweiser and selling it.the purple color is in the genetics...lower the temps at night by 10 degree to help induce the coloring...it will help but there is no way to turn it purple the way you dream about...its all about the genetics

    Tintura Cannabis quería comentarte que el bote trasparente te está en un armario seco u fuera del alcance de la luz, y si al final dejamosun par de días para que se evapore parte del alcohol?

    You will need 1 ounce of cannabis for every pint of ethanol

    The Capn links:http://www.420magazine.com/forums/hydroponicgardening/193337thecapnsultimatefloweringmachine.htmlhttp://www.420magazine.com/forums/hydroponicgardening/190198how10ozperplantperpetualindoors.htmlhttp://www.420magazine.com/forums/seedsclonesstrains/197952capnscloningbattleclonexvsbloomformula.htmlhttp://www.420magazine.com/forums/vegetativecycle/190958howbendtopyourway1poundmonster2.html

    Colheita secagem e cura:*Deixe a planta no escuro por 3 dias*Corte a planta 1/3 a parte de baixo vai revegetar (After replanting (root pruning) it immediately feed it a solution of water and a full dose of whatever nuteyou use for Nitrogen)*deixa o resto de cabeça pra baixo no proprio grow por duas semanas*A temperatura ambiente perfeita para isso seria 6570 degraus e humidade 5560%RH*Sempre da uma olhada pra ver se não pegou mofo e como que estão os galhos/buds*Depois de um tempo de secagem coloca um saco de lixo para redistribuir a humidade por toda a planta*Ficar alternando entre secagem/redistribuição até o momento em que estiver seca ai pode fazer o trimming

    An hour slip one time won't make any real difference.

    Tentar Florir no 8/16

    Place the bud(s) in a piece of foil, close it up and place over anyhting that produces heat such as a light bulb, TV, your monitor etc.After a few hours (from 26 hrs), you will end up with a perfectly smokeable bud.

    A nice, clean snip with some sharp scissors will do the trick when pruning

    got gibberlic acid it was cheap and will last for a few years in the dark glassbottle it comes in.

    get the stuff i listed above and only spray one node or growing branch right asyou flip to flower on the fem seeds and repeat until bottles gone

    autos, you need to spray after 2 weeks and prob wont beable to smoke that one pl

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    ant at all its more of a pollin source to get fem seeds

    Boost pra flora:5 litros de agua1 colher de meladoum copinho de Spirulina em póBanana batida com agua mornaum copinho de Azomiteum copinho de HumusUm copinho de MucilonUm copinho de Agua de CocoDeixa tudo na bombinha por 12 horas e rega

    lista de técnicas que aprendi ao longo do curso:Meios de plantio:hemp bucketcapt'n'styleSelf (sub) Irrigation Potters S.I.P.

    Técnicas:TopingFimmingSuper cropFlux(ing)

    PruningRoot pruningLolipopingTrimmingDefoliationBackbuildingAlporquyRevegMonster cropLow Stress Training (LST)Graft (Multiple strains on a single plant)

    Ferramentas que ainda faltam:

    Medidor de PH aguaTermoHigrômetro Digitalmicroscópio usb que filma e tira fotos de alta resoluçãomicroscópio que checa automaticamente se os buds estão prontos

    same problem like Scunk G forum is stoopedbut here is looking very good i thinkfor fisrt some about my setupBox 120x120x200sunmaster 600lumatek 660 super lumen12 L potsHESI fert.

    with some boosters ( bcuzz blossom builder, bloombastic )now i am in 49 day of 12/121 day before i cut first Green poison F1

    My organic materials include: Molasses Raw Sugar Cow Manure Mushroom Compost Plant Tone Organic Fertilizer

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    Soluble Kelp Powder Azomite Rock Dust (for trace minerals) Organic "Lawn and Garden" soil which has a mix of cow manure, pine bark fines, and other materials in it

    # Evaluating the "crunch" of the stem is a good technique when assessing whether or not buds are ready to be cured. When the stems snap, instead of bending, they are ready to be jarred and stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Another method of judging dryness is to bite the stems and evaluate the crunch this way; your jaw is more sensitive than even your fingers.

    Molassas is supposed to me one teaspoon per gallon1 US gallon =3.78541178 liters

    You want a quality "bloom booster"? Use kelp meal, quality compost, alfalfa meal, mineral dusts and neem meal. There are your bloom boosters.

    Super Soil Definitivo (quantidade)Sunshine Mix 6Terra Vegetal adubadaFarinha de PeixeHumus de minhocaBat Guano (substituto:Mucilon)

    Farinha de SangueSalamargo25% de Perlita

    Transplanting during flowering will slow the flowering from the transplant shock.

    Then start back up with the nutes at ¼ their recommended strength. No more. Firstadd your nutes, then test, then add your pH Down. The nutes will lower the pH naturally by a little bit.You are burning your plant up with the nutrients. This is strong fertilizer andshould only be used once a week or less frequently. It is ok for flowering, butyou must use it with caution. You need to use clear water for a few watering and

     finish up the flowering using 1/2 strength once or twice more depending upon flowering period length. Two weeks before harvest stop ferts and use clear water to the finish.

    Your purple stems are a Phosphorous deficiency caused by the high levels of Nitrogen locking out the P. You don't say what size the pot is, but 1 cup of water every 23 days is probably not enough water during flowering.

    Do pluck all at once: not a little here and there. While it does shock the plant, healthy plants recover virtually overnight; especially if you follow up with a feeding of vitamins and trace minerals (postsurgery feeding).Last 3 days before harvest I drop my humidity down to 35% it seems to dry faster

     and tighter flowers

    Molasses for compost teaAlfalfa sprouts for triacontanol in a seed sprout teaKelp and crab composted for aminos and organic sulphur compoundsFoliar boost is cheap. Brew a tea and feed or foliar as posted above.For years I've used an alafalfa tea and I found it works great at the beginningof flower with about 510 ml of black strap mollassas per gallon

    But I'm doing soil grow with 600w hps using Carboload, rhino skin, big bud, bud

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    candy, purple maxx, sensi bloom A&B and SensizymI water every 3 days water ppm is 150 before I add nutesI would go to 900 then 1200. If you jump to fast you can burn the roots and plantsThen get at least one water only between the next one and then you can go up then to

    as experiment I once did 5 drops to a gallon on some clones and it killed them all in 2 days

    There are several home options available which can drastically lower the ppm inyour tap water. Some of these include carbon filtering, distillation, and reverse osmosis. Keep in mind that some processes clean the water so effectively, that you'll need to add calcium/magnesium back into the water.

    Green Poison Feed Schedule:Rega com Nutrientes: Superthrive e Fertilizante HidroponicoPPM da agua de rega (do chuveiro descansada): 40EC 80 ou 8,0

    Algumas Ultimas considerações:Use agua morna com melado/banana!

    974961298 Duarte

     200 watt Floralux cfl bulbBrown Suger (Sulpher FREE! IMPORTANT!) is what you will need.okay, what i use is a gal milk jug, but any container thats a gallon will work of course.The important thing to know about this is that THE WATER NEEDS TO BE LUKE WARM!so,tablespoon of brown suger sulpher free per gal of luke warm water with it once a week is what was suggested to me. however, i found less is more. i use same measurments, but i only do this about once every two weeks in veg, and then in flower maybe once a week (tho some people go every other feeding but thats a lot. s

    o you water plain h2o. then you use nutes, then you have to use sugar... i think its a bit much so thats why i lessened how much i use as opossed to what i wastaught). you gotta see how your plant reacts to it... but thats the basics my friend. you can use honey, mollasis, anything sweet really. even like those McCormick flavorings... like strawberry. you can also use that, and that will make your plant taste like whatever flav you use, but using brown suger gives best results, as well as mollasis. ?

    First use warm water and two teaspoons of dish soap to scrub away sap and dirt from the blades with a stiff brush. Next, rinse the solution from the blades with clear water.If you see there is some rust already on your shears, use steel wool to buff off rust spots. Then, soak the blades for three minutes in a small pail with water

    and oneteaspoon of bleach. This will kill any plant disease organisms on your blades. After you soak the shears, be sure to dry them well. Lastly, spray the shears with somelubricant oil to prevent any future rusting.

    Principais Técnicas: Super Crooping, Fluxing, Capt'nstyle, Manter a humidade 20% nas duas ultimas semanas de flora, Fazer um flush e manter ela no escuro nos 2 ultimos dias antes de colher.

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    You can leave the system running 24 hours a day, or put on a recycling timer for any variety of times like 3 minutes on 2 minutes off, or 5 minutes on 2 minutes off,or one minute off ETC, so long as the base of the cutting doesnt dry up, and or start to dry up.Keep the system on until you have sufficient roots to transplantthe clones.

    http://www.wikihow.com/DisinfectGardeningTools

    Also I want to add that GA3 is by far the easiest way to feminize seeds. Simplymake a solution of 100ppm concentration and spray the plant daily for 10 days during flowering and male flowers will be produced. Collect the pollen and use itto hand pollinate the female flowers on the same plant using a small paint brush. Use the buds as you want.they are tamper proof, mylar, heat sealed zip lock bags

    pote de ceramica vedado em local escuro acelera a fermentacaoUma colher de sobremesa por litro d'água 1 vez por semana no final da flora. Eu gosto de usar em todo o ciclo da planta mas beeeeem espaçadamente

    Fertilização foliar após 34 semanas em estágio de

    floração é totalmente desaconselhável à qualquer produto, até mesmo àgua,mas se quiser experimentar, faça em apenas uma planta e compare oresultado do produto final com outras da mesma linhagem e sob as mesmascondições.

    O que definitivamente é recomendado é seu uso via fertirrigação até mesmona última semana antes da colheitauma colher de chá de melaço por galão de água

    Um bom exemplo de receita de chá de guano do ninho de Bird é tão simples quanto segue

    1 galão dágua;

    1 colher de sopa de Guano (para floração, o guano de morcego da Indonésia  para um usogenérico, seria Peruvian Seabird Guano, ou, Guano Marítmo Peruano; Mucilon

    1 colher de chá de melaço escuro de cana de açucar.

    Nós ainda usamos melaço para enriquecer o chá de Alfafa. Nossa receita padrão é a segui:

    4 galões de água;

    1 copo (236 ml) de alfafa;

    1 colher de sopa de melaço escuro de cana de açucar.

    A receita do chá de Alfafa descrito por nós pode ser usada para umedecer o solo e tambem como nutrição foliar. E nutrição foliar é o último uso do melaço que gostaria de detalhar. Nutrição foliar,  desfamiliarizados, é a simples arte de usar o spray como forma de enviar nutrientes diretamente à planta, a qual os absorve no momento em que utiliza seus poros de respiração. È de longe o método mais rápido e mais eficiente de se corrigir deficiências nutricionis, atuando como parte importante na caixa de ferramentas do cultivador.

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    De toda honestidade, nós provavelmente sugerimos a nutrição foliar com algas marinhasconcentradas como melhor forma de solucionar uma aparente escassez de Potássio. Algas é uma de nossas escolhas favoritas para nutrição foliar por ser uma fonte completa de micronutrientes e Potássio.Isso deu a Malcolm, uma idéia no desenvolvimento de um produto orgânico para matar formigas vermelhas que é composto de 30% de óleo de laranja e 70% de outro composto de estrume e melaço. O óleo de laranja amacia e dissolve o esqueleto das formigas, fazendo com que fiquem sucetíveis a ataques de micróbios no composto, enquanto que o melaço alimenta a vida microbiana e sufoca as formigas. Após a morte dos insetos, tudo se transforma em condicionadores que irão enriquecer o solo sem afetar as plantas. Pode ser usado em qualquer inseto, incluindo mosquitos e larvas.

    Green Poison Flowering:Maximum EC 1.4She is a big eater, but giving her the maximum dose of organic fert and bio stimulator during all the flowering ive obtained dense and highly aromatic buds.I have used 5 ml of Bioflores and 4 ml of Bioboost in every watering, at flowering stage.40 days

    GA3 @ 500 ppm:

    cubrir o fundo de uma colher pequena com uma fina camada de ga3Added 2ml of alcohol.....Add 2 drops of 70% (90% if you can) Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. You just want toslightly wet the Gibberellic Acid crystals.Tip and tap the jar to get all the crystals into the alcohol. Let sit for a fewminutes and swirl it around a bitIf all the Gibberellic Acid powder it not dissolved add a few more drops and wait a few minutes10 12 drops can be used if needed.Mix it around a bit again, once 3/4 or so of the Gibberellic Acid powder is dissolved its ready. Add 4 or 5 drops of water, it should all mix wellNow add 2 oz (60ml) or 3 tablespoons of acceptable water and mix. You can use immediately (recommended) or refrigerate up to two weeks for later use.

    And then added that to 169ml of distilled water to make a 500 ppm solutionTwo plants treated with a solution of 150 ppm GA3 once only

    something I forgot, once gibberellic acid is mixed it is good for about 10 daysthats it

    Also I want to add that GA3 is by far the easiest way to feminize seeds. Simplymake a solution of 100ppm concentration and spray the plant daily for 10 days during flowering and male flowers will be produced.Collect the pollen and use it to hand pollinate the female flowers on the same plant using a small paint brush. Use the buds as you want. they are good

    Prata para fazer prata coloidal:http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB608151899barraprata9991gramacookisland10cents_JMhttp://perfil.mercadolivre.com.br/PARADIGMA+MOEDAS

    Buenaventura Molist ([email protected])http://perfil.mercadolivre.com.br/BEMOCO011 50722332

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    http://www.cancertutor.com/csilver/https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.508983085806963.109324.262870970418177&type=1

    O Cervantes defende a mesma teoria, diz que alterar o ciclo de luz antes das plantas mostrarem as préflores pode levar ao hermafroditismo.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbUQ8U4OsaI&list=UUdebJiPv6LqqWmO6KpvBCNQ

    In the Rodelization method, the male banana is very valuable. After growing your female plants 1014 days longer than usual, hang them up to dry, then carefully take them off the drying lines and inspect for bananas.Each and every banana should be removed, and placed in a small bag labeled veryaccurately. These sealed bags can be placed in the fridge for one or two monthsand still remain potent.For the next phase, you need to have a separate crop thats already 2 1/2 weeks into floweringI use the lower flowers to make seeds, leaving the top colas seedless for smoking

    im fixing on testing a new recipe i have concocted heres what i have put together3/4 of a 5 kilo block gh cocotek fine coco pith1/2 gallon pearlite1 tbps blood meal

    1 tbps bone meal2 tsp root magic mykos1/2 cup azomite1/2 cup gypsum1/4 cup epsoma garden lime3 gallons recycled used cocoi will mix water in and cook a week minimumthen i will run weak organics ,teas, foliar sprays of seaweed,and teas

    remember only steam distilled water not ro or ozonated it will turn black and not work as well and damage the plants

    If you do use separate plants, the delay is approximately 4 weeks

    Levou 44 dias pra chegar o sprayer pro cloner

    Any of the ionic silvers that are listed as 1050ppm should be fine

    You can use CS up to about two weeks before harvest. The later you start thoughincreases the chance of growing male flowers that won't open on their own.This can be benifical because they won't pollenate your current grow. You can pi

    ck them off and use a razor to open them and extract the pollen.30ppm of CS sprayed once a day vs 15 sprayed twice should be the same for the plant.When you don't spray the upper growth areas, the top grows more bud on it. If you spray the top parts it stunts the plant and you won't see much more upward growth.1) The pollen should fall out of the sac (DROP) IMMEDIATELY when the sacs are removed. If you have to force the pollen to fall out, the pollen is most likely NOT viable and will not produce seed.2) LOOK FOR SEEDS! Do not remove the pollen sacs or toss the treated plant until

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     you SEE SEEDS. It takes approximately 1014 days to see seeds. During this wait time, I REpollinated about every 5 days as further pollen sacs become mature.This will also give you more seeds.Na terceira ou quarta semana do estagio vegetativo tenha certeza que a sua planta estará livre de stress. Não podem ocorrer ataques de pestes nem fungos, sem técnicas de torção ou molde, não desregular o photoperiodo não regar de mais ou fertilizar de mis, não podar, ter um solo adequado como descrito acima, não transplantar nem t