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Feb-Mar 2012 VOL 9, ISSUE 1 For People Who Love the North

Winter Camping Made Easy + Gear Guide

2 NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012 3

La Niña has been kind to the Northern Wilds this winter--perhaps too kind. Winter temperatures have been well above normal, while snowfalls are far below the norm. In mid-January, the annual Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon was canceled due to lack of snow at its Duluth starting point.

Mushers aren’t the only ones feel-ing the pain of a snowless winter. Many snowmobile trails are in rough shape, if open at all. Downhill ski operations are relying on manmade snow. You can fi nd some groomed cross-country ski trails, though some ski events have been rescheduled.

But La Niña hasn’t been all bad news. Much of the Northern Wilds has enough snow to enjoy winter activities. Cross-country skiers are fl ocking to the Gunfl int Trail, where more than a foot of snow blankets

the forest. Ice anglers are enjoying warm days, easy travel conditions and better-than-average fi shing for all species. Backcountry hikers are enjoying the opportunity to explore places on and off hiking trails.

Winter--real winter, that is--can only get better. We’ve made it through January, which is typi-cally the coldest month of the year. There’s more sunshine now and the days are getting longer, inviting us to spend time outside. We’re keep-ing our fi ngers crossed that more snow is coming, too.

In this issue, you’ll fi nd information about a ton of things to do, from

organized events like the Ely Winter Festival, Cook County Winter Tracks and Thunder Bay’s Sleeping Giant Loppet to do-it-yourself adventures like ice climbing in Nipigon or taking your children skiing. This is a great time to try winter camping. You’ll fi nd a complete guide to get you started. We even have some tips on winter outdoor cookery from Gord Ellis, our resident chef and jackpine savage.

Take a cue from our cover couple, Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany, who are shown kicked back and enjoying the sunshine at Golden Eagle Lodge on the Gunfl int Trail. Get outside. Have fun. And enjoy this wonderful La Niña winter.

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

www.NorthernWilds.comPUBLISHERS

Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt

EDITORS

ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

Shawn Perich, Editor [email protected]

OFFICE Bev Wolke [email protected]

Shelby Gonzalez, Managing [email protected]

GRAPHIC DESIGN Breanna [email protected]

Copyright 2011 All rights reserved

Copyright 2011 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2

years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

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from the editors

April/May Advertising Deadline:March 7, 2012

Elle Andra-Warner, Werner Bahner, Lee Boyt, Eric Chandler, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Mike Hillman, Art Laframboise, Deane Morrison,

Amber Pratt, Kate Watson, Lucas Will, Gaby Würth

Advertising rates and publishing schedules are available.

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FEATURESGunfl int 'Home' for German Couple 9“We tried to make fi re, but the only thing that happened was the smoke detector made an unbelievable noise”

Cross-Country Kids 10Field-tested tips for wrangling rug rats on skis

Warm Up to Winter Camping 12A complete guide

Extreme Streams 18One part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, all parts adventure

Low-Snow Sledding 20What to do when suff ering from Snow Defi cit Disorder

North Notes 4 Calendar & Events 7Through My Lens 16Canadian Trails 17Miss Guided 22Product Reviews 23

The Accidental Gardener 24Book Reviews 25Starwatch 25Strange Tales 26Campfi re Stories 27

DEPARTMENTS

About our cover:Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany relax at Golden Eagle Lodge on the Gunfl int Trail. | COURTESY OF GABY WÜRTH AND WERNER BAHNER

Dancing with La Niña


Experience Fun and Excitement!

For reservations call: 1-800-543-1384 or visit: www.grandportage.com

Owned and operated by the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa

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On Lake Superior

Ski at Lutsen Mountains, stay at Chateau LeVeaux and get a discount on both!


MEGA TRAIL Coming SoonSometimes dreams come true. The Duluth-based organization

Cyclists of Gitchee Gumee (COGGS) has been awarded a $250,000 Legacy grant from the state of Minnesota to build a 100-mile multi-use single-tracked trail in Duluth.

Northern Wilds reported on COGGS’s ambitious plan last summer (“Singletrack Paradise,” Aug/Sept. 2011). The trail system, called the Duluth Traverse, will connect and expand the four existing trail systems (Hartley Park, Piedmont, Lester-Amity and Spirit Mountain) to allow easy access for people throughout the city. More information at www.coggs.com.

An unusual animal has made its way to northwestern Ontario. Virginia opossums are a familiar sight in parts of southern Ontario and the U.S. But northwestern Ontario is well out of the animals’ normal range. That’s why Albert Hardy had to look twice when he found one staring at him in his backyard in Lake Helen First Nation, near Nipigon, Ontario.

“It looked like a rat at fi rst,” says Hardy. “That’s what I thought it was. Then I noticed it had a pinkish tail. And

it had little hands for feet.”The opossum has been hanging around his home

for two months now, Hardy says, possibly living un-der his heated shed. He’s been leaving apple slices and bread for the animal every night and they are being eaten. He thinks the mild weather and the feeding have helped it survive. “He looks alright. He’s running around in the snow. I fi gured he wouldn’t

survive because there is no fur on his feet and his tail is pretty much bare.”Most of Hardy’s neighbours were doubters until they

saw the photographic evidence.“People are shocked when they see the pictures. They

go, ‘Ya, that’s a possum.’”—Gord Ellis

Not Playing

OPOSSUM

Minnesota’s gray wolves were removed from the federal government’s threatened spe-cies list and returned to state management in January. The Minnesota DNR has since an-nounced that a “limited” wolf hunting and trapping season could happen as early as late 2012.

Minnesota is home to about 3,000 gray

wolves, the largest popula-tion in the lower 48 states. (The management plan establishes a minimum population of 1,600 wolves.) State law allows anyone to take a wolf to defend human life. Owners of livestock, domestic animals or pets may shoot or destroy wolves that pose an immediate threat to their animals.

What’s Next for WOLVES?

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By the Numbers

Almost ten mil-lion people visited Ontario’s provincial parks in 2011—an increase of 50,000 visitors from the

year before.

COURTESY OF ALBERT HARDY

MACNEIL LYONS/NPS


Travel Tip: Border Crossing

To make your land border crossing from Canada into Minnesota (or vice versa) as speedy as possible, make sure you have at least one form of acceptable ID, such as:

• Passport• Birth certifi cate plus state-issued

identifi cation card• Passport card • NEXUS Trusted Traveler Card• Native American Tribal

Photo Identifi cation Card• Indian and Native Aff airs

Canada (INAC) CardFull list and more information at http://travel.

state.gov or www.cbsa.gc.ca.

Boundary Waters AFTERBURN

NUCLEAR WASTE for the North Shore?

Will a nuclear waste storage facility be constructed in the Lake Superior Basin? The answer is: possibly. Canada’s Nuclear Waste Management Organization (NWMO) is looking for a site to construct a storage facility where nuclear waste will be buried in rock 500 me-ters to one kilometer underground. Areas near Lake Superior are geologically suitable for such a facility and some communities on the Canadian North Shore have expressed interest in the project.

Offi cials from Nipigon, Ontario recently traveled to Toronto and met with representatives of NWMO for a detailed briefi ng and a tour of the Pickering Waste Management Facility where nuclear waste is being stored on an interim basis. Mayor Richard Harvey emphatically states this does not mean Nipigon tossed its hat in the ring as a potential nuclear storage site.

“Nipigon has not in any way said we want the nuclear waste here,” said Harvey in an interview. “We want to learn more about the process and inform our citizens. The fact we are asking questions doesn’t mean we are moving forward.”

Nipigon leaders decided to learn more about nuclear waste stor-age after discovering that two neighboring North Shore communi-ties, nearby Red Rock and Schrieber, were investigating the poten-tial of hosting the facility. While it was determined that Red Rock did not have the proper geology for a storage site, Schreiber re-mains in the running.

Their interest concerns Nipigon, which is located at the northern-most point of Lake Superior. On the edge of town are two bridges over the mighty Nipigon River, one for the TransCanada Highway and the other for the nation’s railroad. There is no other river cross-ing, so nearly all of the goods and people moving across Canada must pass this point. If the waste storage facility is located further west, nuclear waste will cross these bridges, too.

For northern communities, becoming the site of the nuclear waste facility could be an economic windfall. However, Harvey said he doesn’t think communities, particularly his own, should decide to enter the site selection process solely on a promise of jobs. “The big issue is perception,” he says. “How does it fi t with the vision of who we are and where we are going?”

The Nipigon area has been a tourism destination since the 1800s. Not long ago, the Canadian government established a Marine Conservation area nearby. The community is in the early stages of developing a master plan for its marina and waterfront, in part to take advantage of new tourism opportunities. Tourism develop-ment and nuclear waste storage may not be compatible for the community.—Shawn Perich

The eff ects of last year’s Pagami Creek Wildfi re linger in the form of burned areas and restricted access in some parts of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). The fi re torched over 90,000 acres east of Ely. Some areas, including the Pow Wow Trail, remain

closed to public use. The 2012 permit quotashave been lowered for several entry points.Permit reservations can be made starting Jan.25. Details at www.recreation.gov. Informationabout conditions, closures and quotas at www.fs.usda.gov/superior.

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BORDERCROSSING

Geological stability makes the North Shore a candidate for a Canadian nuclear waste site. The town of Nipigon is in-vestigating the ramifi cations of having a waste site nearby but has not declared offi cial interest. | ART LAFRAMBOISE


Vinyl Cafe with Stuart McLean

In association with WTIP North Shore Community Radio

www.wtip.org 218-387-1070

Tickets on sale nowwww.tix.comSimply enter “Vinyl Cafe” in the “Find your Tickets” section

in Grand Marais, MN7:00 pm Friday, March 2

at the Arrowhead Center for the Arts

The Hit CBC Radio Show

Photo by Bruce J. Dynes

Winter Arts FestivalJAN. 30FEB. 12

COOK COUNTYWWW.GRANDMARAISARTCOLONY.ORG

The Winter Arts Festival is comprised of two unique events: the Snow Carving Symposium and Winter Plein Air Painting. The Snow Carving Symposium challenges artists to transform simple blocks of snow into ornate works of art. Winter Plein Air is an adventurous outdoor painting event that takes place at Camp Menogyn on the edge of the BWCAW.

Thunder Bay SnowaramaFEB. 4

GRAND PORTAGE LODGE AND CASINOGRAND PORTAGE

WWW.SNOWARAMA.ORG

Snowarama for Easter Seals Kids is the annual snowmobiling fundraising event in support of Ontario´s children and youth with physical disabili-ties. Come out and enjoy an exhilarating ride on groomed snowmobile trails. Participants will also enjoy a bonfi re, spaghetti supper, and a Saturday night dance featuring live entertainment.

Volks Ski 400 Community Event

FEB. 11

COOK COUNTYWWW.VOLKSSKI.COM

Join the Volks Ski 400 during the 2012 Winter Tracks Festival and help collectively tackle all 400 km of North America’s largest groomed trail system in one day. Just select how you want to hit the trails (join a team, form a team or tackle a trail solo), pick a trail section, select a T-shirt size and pay the entry fee. Proceeds will be donated to the Children’s Nature Network.

Central Canada Outdoor Show

FEB. 2426

THUNDER BAYWWW.TBCHAMBER.ON.CA

The Central Canada Outdoor Show is a family-friendly pilgramage for all-season outdoor enthu-siasts. Visitors will take in an exhibit hall, seminarsand special events. Last year’s events includedmoose-calling and boat-building contests for kids,BMX demos and fi shing seminars.

Sleeping Giant Loppet MARCH 3

SLEEPING GIANT PROVINCIAL PARKWWW.SLEEPINGGIANTLOPPET.CA

This year marks the 35th anniversary of theLoppet. The Woodymakeit Award will make acomeback--with a twist. For 2012, in recognition ofthe anniversary, every skier to complete 50 km onwood skis will receive an award. There will also beall-ages races and a retro ski fashion contest.

Winter Tracks FestivalFEB. 312

VARIOUS LOCATIONS, NORTH SHORE AND GUNFLINT TRAILWWW.WINTERTRACKS.COM

The Winter Tracks Festival is a 10-day fi esta of family-oriented winter events throughout the North Shore and Gunfl int Trail, with ice skating, snowshoe tours, live mu-sic, dogsledding, sleigh rides, ice sculptures, and spe-cial events like the Lutsen Mountains Family Fun Fest, the Ridge Riders Snowmobile Fun Run, the Easter Seals Snowarama and the Volks Ski 400.

Ely Winter Festival (formerly Voyageur Winter Festival)

FEB. 212ELY WWW.ELYWINTERFESTIVAL.COM

The Ely Winter Festival boasts several new event off erings this year, in addition to its usual array of family activities. Brave the Boathouse Winter Classic Triathlon, sponsored by the Boathouse Brewpub and the Ely Nordic Ski Club, or enjoy the adults-only Rotary Club Polar Bear Dance.

Two Harbors Winter FrolicFEB. 1011

TWO HARBORS WWW.TWOHARBORSWINTERFROLIC.COM

The Two Harbors Winter Frolic is suitable for small kids and big kids alike. Try out the sliding hill, make a s’more on the open fi re, watch the Vintage Snowmobiles ride, take a free horse-drawn sleigh ride or participate in the Smoosh or Outhouse Race.

Voyageur Winter CarnivalFEB. 1820

FORT WILLIAM FWHP.CA

The Voyageur Winter Carnival adds a cultural and his-torical twist to winter festivities. Activities will include snow shoeing, cross-country skiing, a snow tubing hill, carnival games, a snow maze, dogsledding demonstra-tions, wagon rides, musket shooting, a wintery Nintendo Wii tournament, and ice skating on the Kam River.

FAMILY FROLICSCelebrate winter northern-style with these regional festivals


For more event listings,

log on to: www.NorthernWilds.comWild Events Calendar

JAN 30Arrowhead UltramarathonI-Falls to Fortune Bay Casinowww.ArrowheadUltra.com

JAN 30FEB 3Snow Carving Symposium Carvings on display Feb. 3-12 weather permitting Grand Marais [email protected]

JAN 30FEB 5Winter Plein Air Painting ExhibitExhibit on display Feb. 3-12Grand Maraiswww.grandmaraisartcolony.org

FEB 2Full Moon Snowshoe Hike6:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. Soudan Underground Mine State Park 218-753-2245

FEB 212Ely Winter FestEly www.elywinterfestival.com

FEB 35USSA Atmore Memorial FIS Ski RaceSpirit Mountain, Duluth(800) 642-6377www.spiritmt.com

Lutsen Mountains Family FestivalLutsen www.lutsen.com

FEB 312Winter TracksCook Countywww.DoNorth.MN

FEB 4Ridge Riders Snowmobile Fun Run Grand Maraiswww.visitcookcounty.com

FEB 4SnowramaEaster Seals Snowmobile rideGrand Portagewww.grandportage.com

FEB 9Modern Viking Voyages of the Leif Erikson & Roald Amundsen Ships7-9 p.m.Canal Park Lodge, Duluthwww.lsmma.com

FEB 10Candlelight Ski and SnowshoeJay Cooke State Park, Carlton218-384-4610

FEB 1011Two Harbors Winter FrolicTwo Harborswww.twoharborswinterfrolic.com

FEB 11Volks Ski 4008 a.m.-4 p.m. Cook County 218-387-2788 ext 102www.DoNorth.MN

Learning to Snowshoe1 p.m. Gooseberry Falls State Park218-834-3855

2nd Annual Ely Igloo & Creek Ridge Radar Run Ely www.ely.org

FEB 1112MCSA Governor’s Cup Ski RaceSpirit Mountain, Duluth www.spiritmt.com

FEB 12White Hurricane: The Great Lakes Worst Storm Ever 7 p.m.Caribou Highlands, Lutsenwww.caribouhighlands.com

Big Jig ice Fishing Contest and FestivalPike Lake, Duluth12-3 p.m. 218-788-2544

FEB 1222Northern Fibers RetreatNorth House Folk School, Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

FEB 151946th Annual Duluth Boat Sports Travel and RV ShowSecond Annual Northland Outdoors Deer ClassicDECC, DuluthWed-Thurs. 5-10 p.m.Fri-Sun 11 a.m.-10 p.m.www.shamrockprod.com

FEB 18Sawtooth International Ski Race10 a.m. Grand Marais

www.pincushiontrails.org

FEB 18Hawg Winter Fishing Contest Winton www.ely.org

Sugarbush Trail Association2012 Candle Light Ski/Hike6-8 p.m. Oberg Mountain TrailheadTofte www.sugarbushtrail.org

Learning to SnowshoeGooseberry Falls State Park1 p.m. 218-834-3855

Candlelight Ski, Snowshoe and HikeGooseberry Falls State Park, 6 p.m.218-834-3855

FEB 1819Cook County Ridge Riders-Radar Run Sat. 8 a.m.-10 p.m.Hungry Jack Lodge, Gunfl int Trail218-387-2788 ext 102 www.DoNorth.MN

FEB 1820Voyageur Winter Carnival Old Fort William Historical ParkThunder Bay www.fwhp.ca

FEB 19Lake Superior’s Most Spectacular Shipwreck7 p.m. Caribou Highlands, Lutsenwww.caribouhighlands.com

FEB 22New Moon Snowshoe HikeSoudan Underground Mine State Park 6:30 p.m 218-753-2245

FEB 2425Colonial Sugar on SnowFinland, MN 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 218-226-4074

FEB 2426Central Canada Outdoor ShowThe Sports Dome, Thunder Bay

www.tb-chamber.on.ca

FEB 25Candlelight Snowshoe and HikeSplit Rock Lighthouse State Park6 p.m. 218-226-6377

FEB 25275th Annual Wolf Track ClassicEly, Tower and Cook Minnesotawolftrackclassic.com

FEB 26Free Family Skating Party 3-5 p.m.DECC, Duluth 218-730-4300

FEB 26Winter Stargazing7 p.m.Caribou Highlands, Lutsenwww.caribouhighlands.com

MAR 2Snowshoe Tour5 p.m. Spirit Mountain, Duluthwww.spiritmt.com

MAR 24Nipigon Ice Climbing FestivalNipigon www.nipigonicefest.com

MAR 3Sleeping Giant LoppetSleeping Giant Provincial ParkThunder Baywww.sleepinggiantloppet.ca

Duluth Women’s Expo9 a.m.-4 p.m. DECCwww.duluthwomensexpo.com

MAR 34USASA EventDouble Half-Pipe/SlopestyleSpirit Mountain, Duluthwww.spiritmt.com

MAR 911 Chuck Futterer Memorial Open BonspielCook County Curling Club

Grand Marais

MAR 10 Tour DuluthSki Duluth’s trailswww.duluthxc.com

MAR 1011 Midwest Masters “Spring Fling” Ski RaceSpirit Mountain, Duluthwww.spiritmt.com

MAR 15Antarctica in Black and White: Snow, Ice and Penguins7- 9 p.m. Canal Park Lodge Duluth www.lsmma.com

MAR 16St Urho’s DayFinland www.friendsofthe fi nlandcommunity.org

MAR 161812th Annual Inuit PremiereSivertson Gallery, Grand Marais www.sivertson.com

MAR 18Naturalist Program: Moose7 p.m. Caribou Highlands, Lutsenwww.caribouhighlands.com

MARCH 3031Spring CarnivalPapa Charlie’s, Lutsenwww.lutsen.com

MAR 30 APRIL 1Spring Home and Garden ShowCLE Grounds, Thunder Bay 807-622-6473

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RockhoundRoad Trip

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Last summer, the Northern Wilds offi ce in Grand Marais had two surprise visitors: Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany. Longtime readers, they have been visiting the Gunfl int Trail since 1996. Here is their story: “In summer 1996 we travelled through California, where we bought a magazine about cross-country skiing in the USA. There we saw an advertisement for the Golden Eagle Lodge. We phoned and rented a cabin for the fi rst week of January, 1997. We didn´t know anything about Minnesota. For preparation we watched the movie "Fargo" and hoped to fi nd as much snow as we saw in the movie. We celebrated New Year in New York, fl ew to Duluth, rented a car and drove to the Gunfl int Trail.

“We were convinced we would stay at a resort with breakfast, lunch and dinner, spa and all com-forts of life. We arrived at Golden Eagle at night. There was no snow, and at the cabin we realized that we had to be self-suppliers. We tried to make a fi re, but all that happened was the smoke detector made an unbelievable noise. So we slept in the cold cabin.

“At the next morning we woke up and had a look at the trails: Nearly no snow, a lot of ice. We drove to Grand Marais to have breakfast and try to get the next plane back to Germany… Back in the cabin we were successful in making fi re and it was warm and cosy. We had a great dinner at Trail Center and during the night it was snowing and snowing. The next morning there was one foot of fresh-fallen snow! We went out for skiing, it was gorgeous!

“If you do cross-country skiing in Germany, you have hundreds of skiiers at the track, it is overcrowd-ed, and the snow is often heavy and wet. But here in Minnesota it is powder and you are nearly alone on the trails. At this moment we fell in love with this part of the world.

“Since this time we come nearly every Christmas/New Year to Golden Eagle. Starting the day with feeding the birds and watch-ing them during breakfast, reading a good book, skiing on the well-prepared tracks or skating on the lakes or going for a snowshoe walk or hiking to the frozen waterfalls—that all is a wonderful experience. And for all our activities, Northern Wilds is an unrenounceable adviser.

“Every year, when we arrive at Golden Eagle, giving a hug to Dan and Teresa (Baumann,) it is like coming home. In 2003 we came for the fi rst time in summer and started with canoeing, but that is another story.

“We have been travelling all over the world, but we come back to Gunfl int Trail twice a year because it is such a special place.”

For Two Germans, the Gunfl int is “Like Home”

Mr. Bahner and Ms. Würth enjoy the lack of crowd-ing on North Shore ski trails. | COURTESY OF WERNER BAHNER AND GABY WÜRTH


How to get ‘em hooked young

Story and photos by Eric Chandler

You want to take your kids cross-country skiing? Great! I have skiing kids of my

own, so, naturally, I’m an expert. (Okay, my wife is. I just load skis into

the truck.) Here is some fi eld-tested advice on gear, trails, and creating

good times for the rug rats.

Cross-Country Kids

EQUIPMENTKids should learn how to ski in the classical

technique. Early in the game, waxless classical skis are the hassle-free way to go. Very young beginners will do fi ne with skis that just strap to any old pair of winter boots. If you buy a ski/boot/binding package, the most important part is the boots. They need to fi t snugly so the young wearer can control his or her skis, but not so tight that they cause cold feet. Work with your local ski shop to fi t equipment properly.

About poles, I will say four words: Leave them at home. The fi rst couple winters a kid goes skiing, poles are a distraction. The kid will learn more without them.

One last note about gear: Make sure children are dressed in layers. Kids cool off and overheat quicker than adults do because of their smaller mass. Check them often and adjust as necessary.

TRAILSChoose trails carefully. You can make an

easy trail hard, but you can’t make a hard trail easy. The main thing to remember is not to bite off more than you and the kids can chew. A short loop trail with a place to warm up is a sure winner.

So you’ve got your kids geared up at a trail. Make the transition from the car to skis as quick as possible. Kids’ attention spans are short. I like a short drive to the trailhead, with ski boots already on and the obligatory bathroom visit completed fi rst. I leap out and lay out everybody’s skis on the snow for them. We get the kids right from the car onto the skis and get moving! Without this “surgical strike” mentality, you can fl ail around for an hour before your fi rst stride.

The Chandlers make skiing a family activity. Both Chan-dler children have been skiing—and posing adorably for photos—almost since they could walk.


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FUELNo matter how

stimulating the scenery or exhilarating the trail, kids can run out of energy. Plan for this possibility with a stash of let’s-keep-going bribes. We bring stuff like candy and hot chocolate.

If you normally have a fun-free diet, break the rules and put a few treats in your backpack. If the kids associate happiness and chocolate bars with the outdoors, it’ll be that much easier to pry them away from the video game console to ski in the future.

ATTITUDEDon’t bring a “workout” mentality to the trails with your

family. Just play! Remember that kids want to have fun, not “get mileage.” See who can go farthest down a hill. Play tag. See who can glide longest on one foot. Bushwhack off the trail and play follow-the-leader. Look for critter tracks.

It took me years to fi gure out that kids don’t necessarily want to be Olympians. Sometimes the best part of a ski trip is building a snowman or sliding (sans skis) down a snow pile in the parking lot. Loosen up and embrace the experience.


Warm Up to Winter Camping

While some people react to the idea of winter camping with a re exive shiver, the truth is that camping out in the winter is just as fun and comfortable as a summertime excursion--as long as you’re prepared. Plus, skis and snowshoes let you explore uncharted territory and have places like the Boundary Waters virtually to yourself.

Here’s how to wring maximum joy out of winter: the fourth camping season.

On a February afternoon, three UMD students prepare for a snowshoe excursion after setting up camp on Boulder Lake, near Duluth. | SHELBY GONZALEZ


Stupid class. Stupid cold. I should fake a sudden case of hantavirus.

I trudged across a wind-scythed win-ter landscape in borrowed snowshoes, considering ways to escape.

It was a February morning. My out-door skills class at the University of Minnesota-Duluth had driven the 30-odd minutes from Duluth to Boulder Lake. We donned skis and snowshoes and trekked across the frozen lake, car-rying packs and hauling gear sleds called pulks, toward campsites where we would spend the night.

I was less than thrilled about this mandatory ex-cursion, mainly because I was certain I would freeze solid overnight, like a Popsicle. They would have to chisel me out of my sleeping bag.

My group’s campsite was a clearing—actually a bay—blanketed with cat-tail-pierced snow. Aspen, cedar, pine and spruce trees sheltered it from the wind, which made fi re-building easy. Setting up camp occupied a solid por-tion of the day.

Soon it was late after-noon. “I’m going to go dig my coffi n,” I announced.

I dragged myself away from the fi re, yanked a shovel from its upright perch in the snow, and marched into the woods.

Snow trenches, or, more evocatively, “snow coffi ns,” are body-sized holes you dig out of the snow to sleep in. The side walls block the wind and the ground acts as an insulator. For my snow coffi n, I dug a depression roughly six feet long, three feet wide and a foot deep. Then I scurried back to the

fi re and melted part of my right boot.

Winter camping is all about warmth. You dress in multiple layers to retain body heat. You move to stay warm. You snack to maintain energy stores. And, if you’re like my group, you build a fi re and spend much of the afternoon and evening sitting by it, swapping stories and laughing.

And melting things. In 24 hours, we accidentally melted four water bottles, a boot sole, a bumper sticker, two Ziploc bags, and a tube of lip balm.

As day faded into night, I discovered that, thanks to packing the right gear and doing the right things, I had stayed cozy and was actually enjoying the stark scenery and sense of aloneness. It felt like we were the last people on Earth.

Around 8 p.m., eyelids drooping, I used the burrito method to hunker down for the night. That is, I tucked a tarp into my trench, laid my sleeping pads and cold-weather sleeping bag in the middle, climbed in, and folded the tarp around myself. Snow would stay

out, heat would stay in.

I woke once. When I poked my faceout of my cocoon, the wind had calmed.The night was still and serene. I was gladI hadn’t come down with anything.

CONFESSIONS OF A Winter-Camping ConvertStory and photos by Shelby Gonzalez

Keep an eye on clothing and gear near the fi re to minimize unin-tentional melting.

Despite appearances, this is a “snow coffi n”—a one-person win-ter camping shelter—not a shallow grave.

Bundled-up UMD students fl ash grins during a February overnight trip to Boulder Lake, near Duluth.


Smartwool Scarf

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be warm, too? Actually, wear-ing a Smartwool base layer is a good idea for any winter activ-

ity. [Editor’s note: I’m wearing my beloved Smartwool half-zip shirt right now.] Find it at Long

Lake’s Gear West Store. www.gearwest.com

Tent StoveWall tents are large

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Backcountry StoveThe MSR WhisperLite is a reliable, lightweight choice for use in the

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Warm SkinProtect exposed skin with a good moisturizer and as much coverage as you can manage. (Now’s the time to break out that balaclava.) Try Warm Skin, a unique gel that off ers a barrier to the cold and prevents moisture loss. Get some at Ely’s Piragis Northwoods Company. www.piragis.com

SnowshoesWhether you are in the wilderness or in a state park, snow-shoes give you the opportunity to explore areas that are not eas-ily accessible in the summer. Redfeather off ers a complete line of snowshoes for all conditions. Check them out at Ely’s Piragis Northwoods Company. www.piragis.com

Backcountry TentWilderness travelers like Eureka’s Alpenlite XT tent because it is light-weight and designed for extreme weather. Snag your own at Gear Up Outdoors in Thunder Bay. www.gear-up.com

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It’s a fair question.

After all, the ground is blanketed with snow, nighttime temps may dip below zero and you can’t go swimming. So what’s the attraction?

“There’s no crowds and no bugs,” says Tom Surprenant at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply.

Hmmm. Knowing there won’t be any mos-quitoes or black fl ies is reason enough to pitch a tent. But Surprenant also says you can be very comfortable if you have the right gear. And by comfort, he means more than just staying warm at night. Using a wall tent and a good heater, you can relax in shirt sleeves.

“It’s really no diff erent than summer camp-ing,” he says.

Perhaps the best way to sample winter camping is on an outfi tted excursion. Renting winter gear allows you to learn about set-ting up a comfortable camp without buying the equipment. This way you can learn about gear and make a better informed purchase if

you decide to add camping to your repertoire of winter activities. If you want to make your camping excursion nearly foolproof, consider hiring a guide.

Winter camping is often done in conjunc-tion with other activities. Some folks like to ski or snowshoe to remote lakes and go ice-fi shing. Others camp as part of a dog-sledding or wilderness skiing adventure. For starters, you may want to pick a campground at a state park or similar place where you can easily re-treat to your vehicle if you decide the winter camping isn’t your cup of tea.

Until you gain some experience, don’t bite off more than you can chew. Keep your inau-gural camping trips simple and focused on learning the basics of camping. Wait until you know the ropes before embarking on a big adventure. While a winter camping trip in the Northern Wilds is unlikely to spin dangerously out of control, you don’t want to be cold and miserable. After all, if you are not having fun, why go camping at any time of year?

—Shawn Perich

Chariot CarrierShare the outdoor love with the next generation, whether you dig skiing, snowshoeing, winter camping or backyard snowman-building. Tote young ‘uns with a Chariot Cross-Country Ski Kit. Similar to a pulk used to tow gear, a Chariot is designed to carry kids. See them at Gear West in Long Lake. www.gearwest.com

Wall TentsA wall tent is almost like taking a cabin camping. Inside, you have room for a stove, living and cook-ing space, and cots. Scope out the Sno-Trekker line at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply in Grand Marais. www.stoneharborws.com

Co

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Why Would Anyone Go Camping in the Winter?


I knew it was a gift moments after we

made eye contact. The red fox stared straight into my eyes, his body tense. We had stumbled upon each other at a bend in a trail.

I stood calmly, afraid any move would cause the fox to bolt. As we watched one another, I saw the fox relax.

Good fortune struck again. Though I could not hear it, the fox turned his at-tention to a rustling under the snow. Head cocked, ears perked, his tension returned, his full focus on what appeared to be blank snow.

The fox crouched, then launched him-self into the air, arching his body, only to plummet face-fi rst into the deep snow. In a second he emerged with a vole, which he ate with great relish. My camera whirred.

Perhaps it was because he had successfully hunted with me so near, or because he was a tolerant example of his species. Whatever the reason, this episode began a winter-long relationship between the fox and me in which he would frequently tolerate my trailing him. It was he, not I, that decided to make this relationship work.

At those times, when a wild animal’s toler-ance allows me to peer into their otherwise hidden world, I feel honored. The honor doesn’t always come easy. I searched for the fox nearly every day, whether it was 20 below or 20 above, and would fi nd him only one out of three or four attempts. Even then, sometimes he just didn’t want me hanging out with him. I accepted that, kept trying, and eventu-ally ended up with a selection of images of which I’m proud.

What kept me coming back in good weather and bad was not so much the chance of getting a decent photograph but the thrill of being able to watch this animal’s life. The real reason I photograph wildlife is not to sell the photos—though the sales are the means to my end—but to spend time in the woods, to see things few others will ever see, and to marvel at the

wonders that surround us.

Over the course of the winter, the foxgrew calm enough to fall asleep with memere yards away. I chuckled as I watchedhim trot amongst the legs of yarded white-tail deer, intent on rodents, the deer curi-ous and alert. He was so successful hunt-ing that he would often cache his catch,burying it delicately with muzzle and frontpaws.

Come January, I grew curious as he be-came obsessed with marking his territory,urinating on every stump, bush and rock.The reason was revealed when I saw himtrotting alongside a mate. I smiled.

Hunt. Eat. Sleep. Mate. I watched hislife unfold. And although it was tempting,I never fed or otherwise tried to infl uencehis behavior. I simply followed him.

When I look back on the photos, I real-ize just how special that time was. The foxgained nothing by letting me tag along.But I gained much. In addition to somewonderful images and great memories, thefox taught me a simple lesson: tolerance al-lows many good things to happen.

The Fox and the Camera Hound

Through My Lens BY MICHAEL FURTMAN

Top: Even mid-leap, a red fox (Vulpes vulpes) is focused intently upon its target: a vole. Above: A successful pounce yields a vole entrée.


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Heading outside this winter? Don’t forget your cooking kit.

It’s true that cold weather presents ob-stacles to the would-be camp cook. Chilly hands fumble when handling food and steel pots. Stoves don’t work as well. Open fi res can be a pain to keep burn-ing. Liquids and water-based foodstuffs have a

tendency to get solid.

I know from experience. Like many people in Northwest Ontario, I grew up cooking over open fi res in the winter. If you were ice fi shing, job one was to get the biggest rip-snorting fi re going you could.

One major upside of an open fi re is the warmth it provides on a cold day. That’s a treat, especially if you’re not moving around much. Also, I’ve had some very good outdoor fi sh fries in the winter

over an open fi re. Few things taste better than a freshly caught walleye or lake trout fi llet that’s been rolled in fl our and thrown in a fry pan full of bubbling hot oil. Add a dash of salt and you have a dish fi t for a king.

That said, a one-burner stove may be a more convenient cold-weather cooking option. The technology of outdoor cooking has really come a long way in the last few years. There are now doz-ens of light and portable one-burner stoves on the market. These stoves heat quickly, cook evenly, and take a wide variety of fuels. They’re also af-fordable, and last a long time with a minimum of maintenance. For the winter adventurer, they’re the most dependable choice for cooking.

There are a few things to keep in mind when looking at one-burner stoves. You need a tough, reliable stove that will heat water quickly and work well in low temperatures. Many campers prefer white gas or unleaded fuel in the winter. Propane also works well in the cold. Check to be sure that your fuel and your stove are compatible.

Bring more fuel than you expect to use and store it in a fuel bottle with a spout. If you’re out

for a day in winter, you could use half a quart of fuel cooking dinner and heating up water. You’d use a quarter of that in the summer. If you have a propane stove, bring two extra canisters.

If you ask around, you’ll get a wide variety of opinions on what the best foods are to eat outdoors in the winter. My favourite right now is a venison smokie boiled to perfection and then popped into a steamed whole-wheat bun. On this goes some ketchup, mayo and onion, at which point nirvana is achieved.

It’s a simple lunch but very hearty. Most adults can easily eat two of these morsels. A hot cup of soup is always a welcome addition. There are a variety of dried soups that can be hydrated with boiling water. A can of brown beans goes well with fi sh. I’ve also had some very good old-fash-ioned coffee that was little more than a handful of grounds thrown into a can of boiling water over an open fl ame. Sprinkle a bit of snow in the can to sink the grounds and you’ve got serious brew.

Cold-weather cooking takes a little preparation, and some time out of the day, but it’s worth it.


One part Nordic tour,

one part downhill slalom, all parts adventure

After I moved back to Minnesota from the Cascade Mountains, I prepared my quiver of skis for corduroy-smooth runs at Lutsen Mountains and the plethora of groomed classic tracks across the county. Soon, though, I craved something wilder.

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What slaked my thirst for adventure was stream skiing, the North Shore’s version of

backcountry ski touring. The North Shore boasts challenging stream descents with no crowds or chairlifts in sight. When the creeks and rivers that tumble into Lake Superior fi nally start to freeze and suffi cient snow accumulates, these fl ows of-fer an off-the-beaten-trail way to enjoy skiing or snowshoeing up north.

An outing on one of the area’s nearly 100 differ-ent tributaries can be one part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, and all parts adventure.

Typically, these rivers meander from inland sources until they near the shore, at which point the topography changes dramatically, dropping the fi nal two miles to Superior’s edge—sometimes more than 700 feet. Here you’ll fi nd waterfall drops, cascading ledges and rugged slides covered with a layer of ice and snow suitable for skis or snowshoes.

With the backcountry feel comes obstacles and exposure. Just like runs at a ski hill, rivers have a rating of diffi culty. No two are alike and one is never guaranteed to be the same from year to year. Snow and ice conditions shift. The waterfalls and plunges themselves do remain the same, though the skiable lines down each may not. Some river sections are un-skiable.

High falls, deep open-water pools, narrow slots

and fast currents are some of the major dangers onNorth Shore waterways. Portaging around hazardsis sometimes an option. Some people rappel pastthem with harnesses and climbing equipment.

Smaller rivers typically have more obstacles, liketree trunks, branches and rocks—though these can add a fun dimension, too. Many streams requiredetailed navigation (choosing your line) throughcertain sections. Your line may skirt open water oran ice shelf, or wind through a boulder fi eld.

Some streams require an up-and-back approachfrom an access point (often along Highway 61).This gives you the advantage of being able to scoutthe river as you go. Other streams can be skied aspoint-to-point excursions, from inland road cross-ings down towards their mouths.

Local knowledge and scattered online referencesare your best bet for scouting streams; there is noguidebook.

Some things to keep in mind when venturingonto a frozen river: Understand how rivers work,such as where the fast and slow water is, how deepthe river is, and what the fl ow is like underneaththe ice. Shelf ice is everywhere and may be feetabove the actual water level.

I always bring a change of clothes, poles, a throwrope, and a partner. Let someone know where andwhen you’re going. Explore within your limits.And enjoy!

FACING PAGE Stream skiing is a unique way to access and view the North Shore’s back country. ABOVE Adding to the challenge is the obstacles you enounter along a stream, ranging from open water to steep vertical drops.

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The main reason many of us live in this land of un-godly cold is to play in the snow. This win-ter, unfortunately, there’s barely enough snow to justify owning a shovel. Looking out the window at multi-thousand-dollar snowmobiles sitting like expensive paperweights on the trailer is just plain depressing.

The easy answer is to bite the bullet and put the sleds back in storage. Yeah, right. As soon as the snow starts falling, you’ll be on the trails, trying to salvage what’s left of the winter.

Without consistent, season-long snowfalls, the trails won’t have much of a base of snow to support snow-mobile traffi c. Bare spots will be common. Exposed earth and vegetation, although seemingly frozen solid, are actually quite fragile; ride around these areas if pos-sible to avoid damaging the ecosystem.

Take it easy on the throttle and brakes to leave a little snow on the trail for the sleds behind you. Avoid the temptation of ripping up, down and around to release pent-up excitement, because the ruts and destruction you create on trails--especially those running through private property--aren’t going to be nearly as impressive come spring thaw. In fact, such wanton environmental

ruin is illegal on several levels. Also, if property owners

discover a mess left by a bunch of inconsiderate sled jockeys, you may

fi nd that section of trail closed next season.

Low snow warrants me-chanical considerations. Owners of liquid-cooled snowmobiles have particular cause for caution. Liquid-cooled snowmobiles have an automotive-style cooling sys-tem, using heat exchangers in-stead of a radiator to cool the en-gine. Located on the underside of the sled, heat exchangers are long U-shaped pipes (within a thin-wall housing) connected to the engine’s cooling system.

Hot coolant fl ows from the en-gine, through the heat exchang-ers, and back to the engine. The heat exchangers dissipate the heat from the coolant with the snow spraying from the track. If you drive in places with little or no snow, the heat exchang-ers can’t do their job. The engine can overheat and self-destruct, and then you’re really out of business.

Owners of snowmobiles with air-cooled enginesneed not worry about their heat exchangers, as thesemachines use fans to blow cold ambient air around theengine.

However, all sled owners need to think about thewear and tear that low-snow riding can infl ict on theirmachines. Snow lubricates and cools tracks, slides and

slide rails (hi-faxes). Premature fail-ure from heat, friction, and debrisgrinding away of these criticaldrivetrain components is a near-certainty during extended opera-tion in low-snow conditions.

The skags/ski runners/wear bars on the running surface ofthe skis take a beating under ide-al circumstances. Dirt, gravel andpavement can erode the skags tothe point that steering tractionis compromised--the machinewon’t stay hooked up in turns--which is unnerving at best and

potentially fatal at worst.

So go ahead and play in what snow wehave--but use your head. If you have to think aboutwhether there’s enough snow to unload the sleds, thereprobably isn’t. If you decide to venture out anyway, goslow, smart and safe.

Low-Snow Sledding How to make sure your snowmobile isn’t just a multi-thousand-dollar

paperweight this winter By Lee Boyt

Resources International Association of Snowmobile Administrators (IASA)www.snowiasa.org

Minnesota DNRwww.dnr.state.mn.us

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On a subzero January morn-ing, some climb-er friends and I stood at the foot of a lumpen ice-fall in Orient Bay, Ontario. The icefall is named Sycho Icycho and is rated WI (Water Ice) 2. Put another way, if it were a movie, it would be rated G. It looked like a melted wedding cake.

Still, at that moment Sycho Icycho was the scariest thing I’d ever seen. I was about to lead it. This would be my fi rst time lead-ing.

In climbing parlance, leading means plac-ing your safety gear as you climb instead of rigging it beforehand. If you fall while on lead, you fall twice the distance between your current position and the last piece of gear you placed. Also, if you placed said gear incorrectly or fell before plac-ing gear at all, you could hit the ground. There’s a reason one slang term for leading is “being on the sharp end.”

Speaking of sharp ends, I was bristling with them. Since fro-zen waterfalls are slippery and rather lacking in handholds, ice climbers stab their own holds into the ice with a quiver of in-timidating objects.

Grids of steel spikes called crampons bedecked my boots. Ice screws dangled from my harness, each one baring jag-

ged little teeth along the bottom rim. I was holding a pair of ice tools. (Imagine a cross between a hatchet and a bone saw.)

Stephen King once wrote an essay about ice tools for Outside Magazine. It includes the sentence, “I look at the DMM Predator ice ax and I think of murder.”

Looking upward, I was thinking of many things--murder not among them. A chorus of ambition, confi dence, vanity and insecurity clamored in my mind.

You’re ready.

It’s too late to back out.

You have to do this.

You can’t.

You can.

Fear joined in. I imagined King-worthyscenarios in which I tumbled off SychoIcycho and landed on my ice tools.

That wouldn’t happen, of course; theroute is easy and I had suffi cient skill to

Climber vs. Mind Monkey

MissGuided BY SHELBY GONZALEZ

On the Sharp End

You have to stay sharp to climb an ice wall. The sheer cliff s of the Nipigon River val-ley attract climb-ers who enjoy the challenge of climbing massive ice slabs.


Otter BoxEveryone “otter”

have an Otter Box. The company makes a selection of water-proof containers for carrying just about anything you want to keep safe and dry. The Otter Box 2500, shown here, has plen-ty of room to carry a cell phone, pocket camera and other small items. It’s con-venient to keep in the cab of a pickup. The plastic latchesare somewhat diffi cult to open, but are not a drawback for awaterproof container. Otter Box also makes protective cas-es for most popular brands of smart phones, notepads andsimilar devices. Go to www.otterbox.com —Shawn Perich

ClipLitLong winter nights

leave all of us fum-bling for keyholes. ClipLit from Nite Ize, Inc. attaches to your key ring to provide a ready source of light. About the size of a quarter, Clip Lit has a built in carabiner you can snap to zip-per pulls, backpacks, key rings or any place you need a small light. A small lithium battery provides 24hours of continuous power to the LED. Learn more at www.NiteIze.com —Shawn Perich

climb it. But my lizard brain prefers the lurid to the logical. Impalement! it tele-graphed. Imminent death! My adrenal glands helpfully spurted enough adrenaline to stun a walrus.

Some people meditate to hush their internal com-mentary track, which Buddhists term the “mind monkey.” I felt the urge to fl ee.

Instead, I sucked a chest-ful of artic air and went through safety checks with my belayer. Slammed one tool into the ice above my head. Then the other tool. Crampons next. My feet left the ground.

The sharp end was a scalpel excising the unimportant. My awareness shrunk to sensory input: huffi ng breath, clammy skin, lactic-acid burn in forearms and calves, scrape and thud of gear biting ice. The peanut gallery went silent.

Up I climbed, graceless and still scared but no longer thinking about it. When I reached the top, a fi erce joy fl ooded the space where doubt and fear had been.

Though this was my fi rst time leading, the sharp end felt familiar. I had been there before and have been many times since--when I fi rst ran a rapid, stood on a snow-board, spoke in front of an audi-ence. The sharp end is one step past your abilities. The sharp end is anything that both scares and intrigues you.

Even if you feel comfortable with your life, dare your edges now and again. You might fi nd that afterward the world feels a little bit bigger.

ABOVE The author conquered her fears to climb an ice wall and lay out a safety line for others to use.

NIPIGON Ice ClimbingFESTIVAL The Nipigon Ice Fest will be held Mar. 2-4. Festival events include climbing slide shows, a gear swap, door prizes and several ice climbing clinics on world-renowned Nipigon area ice.

“We are enthusiastic to get the Nipigon Ice Fest back up and running. It’s been a couple of years off and we have been anxious to show off the world-class climbing opportunities in Northwestern Ontario,” says Kara Bremer, Nipigon Ice Fest coordinator.

For those interested in participating in a clinic or any of the other events can register online at www.nipigonicefest.com. Climbing gear will be available for rent and there will be climbing gear company representatives on site throughout the festival to show off their goods. A list of area accommodations and restaurants are also listed on the website.

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about rubber boots, four things came to mind: waterproof, clunky, ugly and no traction. Except for being 100% water-proof, these Arctic Sport Mid Muck Boots couldn’t be further from that notion. Not only do these boots fi t well on my feet, but they have excellent traction -- I don’t feel like I’m going to slip and slide while out walking my dog. Comfortable,easy to take on and off , and very warm, these boots havebecome my go-to pair as I head out the door. Comes witha dark rubber bottom with a choice of four colored uppers.Sizes include women’s 6-13. www.muckbootcompany.comThe boot retails for $144.95. —Amber Pratt

Ibex Breakaway 2 PantI can stop looking—I’ve

fi nally found THE cross-country ski pant. The Ibex Breakaway 2 Pant blends new soft shell technology with the old-school standby: temperature regulating and stink-fi ghting wool. These formfi tting pants feature Climawool softshell pan-els on the front (a stretchy, breathable, wind- and wa-ter-resistant blend of nylon and wool), while the back is a plush wool knit. So far this winter I’ve used them in a range of conditions across the upper Midwest. From stride skiing on mild, sunny after-noons to skate skiing on subzero, blustery mornings (with a light baselayer), I pretty much forgot I had them on--a tes-tament to their impeccable fi t and comfort. The pants are simple and sleek with a high elastic waist to lock out cold air, generous ankle zips for easy wear over boots, one zip-per pocket and refl ective detailing. Added bonus: they’re made in Canada. MSRP $225. More info at www.ibex.com. —Kate Watson

Goodbye Girl Ponytail HatExercising girls (and some

boys) with long hair wear pony tails. Now instead of an awkward bulge under their winter hats, ponytails are free to drift in the wind through an ingenious inte-grated loop. Heads and ears are snugly protected be-neath a colorful, warm layer of water-resistant Polartec® fl eece. www.trailheads.com Assorted colors. Retails for $26 —Amber Pratt

Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System

The aforementioned qualities in the Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System makes super-economic use of fuel, with the smallest fuel canis-ter (100 g) cooking about three days’ worth of breakfast, coff ee and din-ner. The stove includes a locking pot support that allows you to use larger pots and pans. All components, in-cluding the fuel canister, stow away nicely within the lightweight alumi-num cooking vessel.

—Shelby Gonzalez


One of the best

parts of garden-ing is that you can change your game every year if you want.

Last year, for example, I tried winter seed sowing, and it worked just great. I cut one-gallon milk jugs in half, keeping the handle intact, fi lled the bottom with starter soil, added cool-weather seeds---cilantro and lettuce--sealed up the milk jugs with duct tape, punched a few holes in them and then put them in a sunny corner of the yard in late February. Within a couple of weeks, the seeds had sprouted. By early May they were ready for harvest. It was pretty amazing to be snipping off fresh cilantro a month before anything could be planted in the ground.

This year, I plan to add to my reper-toire. I’m going to set aside a small plot in my garden and try square-foot “lasagna” gardening. I’m also planning to expand my selection of season-extenders to include a cold frame.

There are all kinds of ways to build one, and they really do add weeks to your grow-ing season. They also can provide badly needed warmth for vegetables like toma-toes and peppers.

Molly and Ken Hoffman, who live just

outside Grand Marais on Good Harbor Hill, have been growing their own food for years. They have lots of fruit trees and berry bushes and great garden plots, as well as a hand-dug root cellar.

But even in their protected area in what we call “the banana belt,” a microclimate of warmth that runs just below the fi rst ridges up from Lake Superior, growing tomatoes and peppers has always been iffy. So, they designed their own portable cold frame, us-ing 2- by 8-foot rough-sawn cedar boards for the long sides and 2-foot by 30-inch side boards to create the box. They then attached 2-foot pieces of Plexiglas to the sides of the box, creating a perfect growing environment for peppers and tomatoes.

Molly said that Plexiglas has become very expensive these days. “But you could use greenhouse plastic.”

They use a breathable plastic for the top of the box, and have tarps to cover it on freez-ing nights. They plant their pepper and to-mato plants in the box on May 15, a full month before it’s safe to put them directly into the garden, and they reap the rewards every season. One other nice thing about the box--it can be taken apart each fall and stored for the winter.

Nancy Haarmeyer and Tom McCann live in a true Zone 3 above Grand Marais. They have discovered that a cold frame de-signed by Cook County extension agent

Diane Booth and her husband—meant forchildren’s gardens—works well for them,too. The cold frame has insulated sidesand windows that slide back and forth onthe top, rather than up and down, whichmakes it safer for children, Booth said. Italso makes it easier to regulate the heat inthe cold frame. The size of the cold framedepends on the size of the top windows.

Nancy said she was amazed at how wellit worked. “It was really fun,” she said, andwell worth the investment. Booth says shewill gladly share the plans with the public.Call her at 218-387-3015 or e-mail her [email protected].

the Accidental GardenerBY JOAN FARNAM

LEFT A cold frame allows you to extend your gardening season. Kale and parsley here are being harvested in late November. ABOVE This insulated cold frame with a sliding cover is designed to be easier for children to use.

Game Changers


By Deane MorrisonUNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH

February-March

MinnesotaMade!

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The Boundary Waters & Quetico Calendar, Books for Children and Adults, Note Cards and Journals

Call for our new catalog orvisit our website to view allour books and gifts. Orderon-line, by phone or mail, orask at your favorite store.

As winter wanes, several planets liven up the lingering darkness.

On Feb. 1, Mars rises in the east about three hours after sunset, but by March it comes up just after sundown. Its ruddy glow or-naments the space below the triangle of stars in the hindquarters of Leo, the lion.

Earth laps Mars in the orbital race on Mar. 3, and two days lat-er our planets pass just 63 million miles from one another. Mars’ brightness then will rival that of Sirius, the brightest star, a beacon in the south near Orion. Also, in early March, Jupiter hangs above brilliant Venus, an evening “star” in the west. Venus climbs past Jupiter in the second week of March and ends the month as high as it ever gets.

Saturn rises in the east shortly before midnight on Feb. 1, but just over an hour after sunset by the end of March. The ringed planet closely trails Spica, the brightest star in Virgo.

On clear, moonless nights in late February, look for a faint, broad fi nger of light pointing back along the sun’s path an hour or two after sunset. This is the zodiacal light, a refl ection of sunlight off a disc of dust that stretches far into space in the plane of the solar system.

February’s full moon rises at 5:32 p.m. on Feb. 7—within two hours of exact fullness, so it will be a beauty. March’s full moon shines the night of Mar. 8. And, last but not least, spring arrives with the equinox at 12:14 a.m. on Mar. 20.

The University of Minnesota-Duluth offers public viewings of the night sky at its Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium. For more information and viewing schedules, visit www.d.umn.edu/planet. Find U of M astronomers and links to the world of astronomy at www.astro.umn.edu.

A View of the LakeBy Beryl Singleton BisselLAKE SUPERIOR PORT CITIES, INC. $16.95

An urban im-migrant to a lake home in the small North Shore community of Schroeder, the author writes short vignettes about her new lifestyle. Walks in the woods, kind neighbors, cold weather and picking berries are among her topics.—Shawn Perich

Amazing Gulls, Acrobats of the sky and sea

By Marlin Bree MARLOR PRESS $10.95

Marlin Bree fi nds wonder in a bird many folks take for granted. This tribute to gulls looks at their natural history, interactions with humans and the lore as-sociated with the birds. With photos and drawings on ev-ery page, Amazing Gulls is a visual delight. Although by no means a traditional bird guide, anyone who enjoys birds will like this book.—Shawn Perich

Growing Shrubs and Trees in Cold Climates By Debbie Lonnee, Nancy Rose, Don Selinger and John Whitman UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA PRESS $39.95

A hefty compen-dium containing more than 950 varieties of trees and shrubs for cold climates, this book has a clean lay-out that makes it re-markably easy to use. Color photography shows the fl owers and foliage of many varieties. Specifi c information about how to plant and care for each variety is included, as well as a general section with chapters for planting, propagation, pests and other topics. Backyard horticulturists throughout the Northern Wilds will fi nd this is the gold standard for information about trees and shrubs.—Shawn Perich

RECREATION Free Shipping on New Canoes

or pick up in Ely, MNand get $100 off .

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Ask about Kayaks for your cabin.

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Campers, Fisherman! Complete Winter Outfi tting! SnowTrekker tents with stoves, skis, snowshoes, fi sh houses, toboggans & everything else you need for a Fun Winter Ad-venture! Visit-www.thecanoeist.com or call-218-834-3523

For information about placing your classifi ed ad, contact Amber at [email protected]


... a Superior Treasure

Discover

RED ROCK

www.RedRockTownship.ca

Learn more about what our community has to offer, including our beautiful Full Service Marina at

During the Golden Age of Hollywood, from roughly the 1930s through the ‘50s, four women from the Lakehead

achieved international fame. (The Lakehead is the name used collectively for Port Arthur and Fort William, now called Thunder Bay.)

Two became Hollywood divas. One be-came part of Europe’s wealthy elite, social-izing with the likes of Winston Churchill and Sir Laurence Olivier. Another was hailed as one of the world’s most beautiful women. Today their achievements, tragedies and glo-ries are largely forgotten.

Here are their stories.

'Child Darling' to Leading LadyBorn in Fort William in 1914, Cecilia Parker showed

early promise as a “star pupil” of dance instructor Grace Ensworth. Newspapers called her the “child darling of Fort William entertainment.” At age 18 she starred with legend-

ary John Wayne in the western The Rainbow Trail. She appeared in 60 movies be-tween 1934 and 1962. She was John Wayne’s leading lady in Hollywood’s fi rst musical west-ern, “Riders of Destiny;” Greta Garbo’s younger sister in “The

Painted Veil;” and, later, Mickey Rooney’s older sister in the “Andy Hardy” movie series.

Cecilia married actor Dick Baldwin and retired from act-ing in 1942, although she took occasional roles until 1962. She died in 1993 at age 79.

Teenage Superstar Barbara Read was born in

Port Arthur in 1917. Her great-grandfather was Minnesota senator, Harry Burkhardt, a Swiss immigrant to the U.S. who later founded the fa-mous Burkhardt Brass Band of Wabasha County. Barbara was discovered by Hollywood when she was going to school and living with her aunt in California. She was 19 years old when her fi rst movie, “Three Smart Girls,” cata-pulted her and costar Deanna Durbin to stardom. Between 1936 and 1947, Barbara made 21 feature fi lms, the last one a western called “Coroner Creek.”

In 1947, Barbara left behind her movie career to focus on her art and family. She had four children from two mar-riages. Unfortunately, health issues plagued her, and in 1963, at the age of 46, she took her own life.

I asked her eldest son Damon Josephy what he wanted people to remember about his mother.

“That she was beautiful,” he said. “She had a wonderful spirit that carried her through the times when she was not fi ghting demons. She was an incredibly creative indi-vidual, a passionate artist who was a poet, actress, sculptor and painter.”

European EliteIrene Boycun gave up a promis-

ing musical career to become Lady Alexandria Korda. Born in 1929, the daughter of Ukrainian im-migrant farmers in Fort William, she changed her name after high school graduation to Alexandria (or “Alexa”) and headed to Europe with dreams of becoming a star.

In England, she met, fell in love with, and married the famous mov-ie producer Sir Alexander Korda. She was 24, he was 60. When he died in 1956, Lady Korda become a wealthy woman, but she had paid a price: during their marriage, she had started taking powerful doses of prescription drugs.

Alexa made world headlines when she remarried, this time wedding a wealthy British insurance broker named Patrick Metcalfe. They had three children before divorcing in 1964. Two years later, at age 37, Alexa was found dead. An inquest put the blame on her doctor for “grossly over-prescribing.”

Beautiful” Director The fourth woman, Olga

Landiak, was a Ukrainian farmer’s daughter from Fort William. After winning a major acting award, she moved to England, where she con-tinued her professional acting ca-reer. She moved back to Canada in 1954 as a director for the Stratford Shakespeare Festival.

While in England, Olga had met British photographer Nicholas

Egon, who immediately selected her as one of 48 women from around the world for his book “Beautiful Women of Our Time.” Olga later returned to Northwestern Ontario and wrote a number of books, plays and newspaper col-umns.

Legendary Ladies Lakehead divas palled around with Greta Garbo and John Wayne

Strange Tales BY ELLE ANDRAWARNER

TOP Cecelia Parker gained acclaim at a young age and starred in a John Wayne movie when she was just 18 years old. She went on to appear in 60 mov-ies during her career. ABOVE Barbara Read also achieved famed at a young age and made 21 fi lms in her decade-long acting career. | PHOTOS FROM THE AUTHOR’S COLLECTION.


One Sunday, my mother and I drove to visit her friend Mrs. Rivard. Mrs. Rivard was well into her 80s that summer. She ran a small resort called Camp Rivard, located a few miles south of town on Birch Lake.

When we arrived at her home, she was in the living room doing a headstand. She neatly fl ipped over on her hands. The next thing I knew, she was standing upright and extending her hand to me. “You must be Michael.”

“Yes, ma’am,” I answered, mouth agape.

Just then, there was a knock at the kitch-en door. Mrs. Rivard opened the door and in walked a resort guest, a good-sized man who took his hat off when he entered the kitchen.

“I don’t know how to tell you this, Mrs. Rivard, but there’s a thief in camp.” He explained that his wedding band and watch had gone missing.

“I believe I know who has taken your things,” she said. “Follow me, please.”

She led us outside, to the back of the garage, where there was a large wooden box mounted on a post about four feet off the ground. On the front of the box, a platform and a wooden dowel extended outward, while a hole about six inches in diameter opened inward.

A raven emerged from the hole and stood on the platform, looking her in the eye.

“Hello,” the raven said.

I couldn’t believe my ears. I’d heard it said that ravens could talk, but I never re-ally believed it.

Mrs. Rivard talked to the raven as if he were a person. “Blackie, Mr. Anderson is missing a watch and ring. Do you know where they are?”

Blackie hopped onto the dowel and looked away. “No.”

“Are you sure? Do you mind if I have a look?”

“No trespassing, no trespassing,” he fi red back.

Despite his protests, Mrs. Rivard opened the door on the back of the box. Inside, she found a shiny gold watch and a ring. She removed them, closed the box and gave

Blackie a treat. He thanked her.

Mrs. Rivard got Blackie a few years ear-lier, she told me. A logger had cut down a tree with a raven’s nest in it. Two of the chicks were killed, but the third survived. The logger brought the chick to her and she raised it by hand.

“Sometimes I wonder if he has any idea that he’s a raven,” she mused.

Blackie’s theft of shiny ob-jects became part of Camp Rivard’s charm. “I have peo-ple who come to visit me and bring their children and grand-children just so they can leave something on the window ledge for Blackie to steal.”

I was so taken by Blackie that I told my dad I would rather visit Camp Rivard than

go fi shing. Mrs. Rivard was busy with the resort during the summer, so I agreed not to bother about Blackie until the season slowed down and she had time for compa-ny. I will always remember the morning I called and told her that we were coming for a visit. I asked if there was anything special I could bring Blackie.

There was a pause from the other end of the phone. Mrs. Rivard said gently that Blackie had disappeared.

“One day Blackie was home, and the next morning he was gone. I hope he found a girlfriend and has fi nally realized he’s a raven.”

We visited Camp Rivard for many sum-mers after that, but it was never the same. Once when I was fi shing, a big old raven perched in a nearby pine. Just before he fl ew, I thought I heard him say hello, but that might have been only wishful thinking.

Campfire StoriesIRON MIKE HILLMAN

Look Who’s Squawking

Quoth the raven,“No trespassing”


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