North highland larder 1 48

GUIDES

NorthHighland THE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK

OF THE NORTH HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND

Larder

North Highland Larder 2012.indd 1North Highland Larder 2012.indd 1 11/06/2013 11:5511/06/2013 11:55

www.mey-selections.com; buy online via www.campbellsmeat.com


GUIDES

The North Highland LarderPart of The Larder series of food and drink publications thelarder.net

Editor Donald Reid

Deputy Editor Claire Ritchie

Editorial assistanceKeith Smith

Writing & researchJohn Cooke, Sylvie Docherty, Hannah Ewan, Sandy Neil, David Pollock, Tom Sampson, Keith Smith

Design & ProductionSimon Armin

Advertising & SponsorshipChris Knox, Nicky Carter, Sheri Friers

MapMap © Ashworth Maps and Interpretation Ltd 2013. Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown Copyright and database right 2013.

CoverCover image courtesy of Isle of Ewe Smokehouse © John Paul of John Paul Photography, Inverness.

PublishersRobin Hodge, Simon Dessain

Larder DirectorPeter Brown©2013 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of The List Ltd.

Published by The List Ltd14 High Street

Edinburgh EH1 1TE

Tel: 0131 550 3050

list.co.ukExtensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication, however the publishers can accept no responsibility for any errors it may contain.

T he North Highlands of Scotland – the area of mainland north of Inverness and Skye – are characterised not only by spectacular scenery, rich cultural history and unique natural heritage, but also by a compelling larder of food and drink.

The territories of Caithness, Sutherland and Ross-shire, together with sea-facing coastlines to the north, east and west, encompass both fertile farmland and marginal crofting, deep-water fish ports and tiny inlets that are the hunting ground for creel fishermen and scallop divers. Game, wild trout and foraged foods can be found across the vast, sparsely populated landscape, while in the knots of population are plenty of enterprising food and drink businesses from cheesemakers and chocolatiers to craft breweries and whisky distilleries.

This guide aims to tell the story of the food and drink of the North Highlands in all its diversity and practical detail. It tells you about the food grown, reared, landed and produced in the North Highlands, and just as importantly where to find it, from local farm shops to Michelin-starred restaurants. Independently selected to reflect the contemporary food culture of the North Highlands, this is above all a guide to help you find, appreciate and enjoy great local food.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSThis guide has been developed by The List working with the North Highland Initiative, Highland Council and Highlands and Islands Enterprise. The editors would like to thank David Whiteford and Tom Campbell for their support of the project, as well as Claire Farquhar for her assistance and local wisdom.

FEEDBACKTo correct or update any information contained in the North Highland Larder, or to provide comments or feedback, contact [email protected], or write to the Editor, North Highland Larder, c/o The List, 14 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1TE

Introduction

The North Highland Larder 3


4 The North Highland Larder

Contents

A Crofter’s TaleDiscover more about Scotland’s crofting renaissance and how food

produced on crofts is making its mark. See page 8.

Where to EatFrom afternoon tea and pub lunches to Michelin-

starred dinner for two. From page 36.

Smokey JoeTake a tour of some North Highland smokehouses on

page 12.

Say CheeseMeet the people behind Highland Fine

Cheese. See page 18.

What’s in the North Highland Larder?There’s a lot packed into these 48 pages. Here are a few of the highlights

list.co.uk GUIDES


Contents

Introduction 3

Features 6

Map 24

Where to Buy 28

Where to Eat 36

Farmers’ Markets & Food Festivals 45

Index 47

To MarketFind out about the region’s farmers’ and

community markets on page 46.

Chef’s ChoicesSome top North Highland chefs select

their favourite local produce. See

panels from page 31.

Where to BuyFrom butchers and bakers to farm shops

and delis. Listings start on page 28.

From the North HighlandsA comprehensive round-up of the food

grown, farmed, made and landed in the

region. See page 26.


> FOREWORD

As Chair of His Royal Highness, Prince Charles, The Duke of Rothesay’s North Highland Initiative, it is a great pleasure to be introducing the first ever publication of the North Highland Larder. It showcases an astounding variety of produce and offers a superb introduction to the great tastes of our region.

Since 2005 the Initiative has supported food and farming in the most northerly counties of Caithness, Sutherland and Ross-shire, helping to meet a real demand for provenance by consumers. The North Highlands is a place of majestic landscapes but it’s also a fragile and remote part of the world and people work hard to make a living.

In this publication, I am particularly pleased to see quality, sustainably produced local produce feature, and I’m proud that this produce is increasingly available throughout the UK and abroad.

David WhitefordChairman, North Highland Initiative



Salmon & Shellfish

S almo Salar (the Atlantic salmon) is an extraordinary creature. Capable of living in both fresh

and sea waters, and able to navigate across thousands of miles with pin-point accuracy back to the very gravel bed in which it spawned, it’s a fish that has fed man since the days of the Picts, and just one example of the rich seafood heritage of the North Highlands.

However, stocks of wild salmon are now limited and strictly controlled, while the farmed salmon raised in local lochs and bays have become an important employer and international export.

Of course, modern aquaculture is not without its critics, with some believing it has no place, except as an on-land closed system. Clearly, with consumers becoming increasingly ethically astute in their purchasing, no salmon farmer worth their salt ignores the sustainability

and environmental impacts of working in some of the most pristine waters on earth.

Loch Duart salmon is a case in point. Employing around 55 people, with a history going back to 1999, they hit the headlines when their salmon was served at the royal wedding of Kate and William in 2011.

Producing 5,600 tonnes of fish a year, it is no boutique operation, but then is easily dwarfed by the larger Norwegian-owned operations elsewhere that churn out the bulk of Scotland’s 160,000 tonnes of fish annually.

On the important subject of sustainability, Loch Duart’s Sales Director Andy Bing points to the eight separate sets of regulations from different bodies that Loch Duart aspires to meet. Among the many practices and disciplines which he believes make a significant contribution is leaving a

Seafood SpecialsJohn Cooke explores the background to some of the fish and shellfish that travel from the North Highlands to the top kitchens in Britain and Europe

list.co.uk GUIDES



Salmon & Shellfish

fish farm fallow for a year, after the two years it takes to raise a fish to harvest size. Theoretically, this allows the debris from the fish and its feeding to dissipate and the ocean floor to recover. Working with the Scottish Environmental Protection Agency (SEPA), Loch Duart has modified this practice where and when it has proved not to work.

‘I think aquaculture realises that to have a long-term future, we have to continually look for improvements in sustainability,’ he asserts, speaking from Loch Duart’s Badcall Salmon House HQ near Scourie, a building ironically built by the Duke of Northumberland as part of a 19th-century wild salmon netting station.

For another North Highlands fish supplier, Keltic Seafare, the challenge is a different one: bringing the wild harvest from the ocean floor off the northwest coast of Scotland to the tables of some of the world’s most revered restaurants in London, Paris or Madrid, in under 24 hours.

This 20-year-old company was begun by a renowned scallop diver and a sales partner, at first focussing on scallops alone, but now taking in creel-caught lobster, langoustine and crab.

The race to table begins with a fleet of a dozen vans trawling up and down the coast, awaiting the post-noon landing of

up to 75 small boats bringing their catch ashore at harbours and quays both huge and tiny. It’s a complicated logistical operation, heavily weather dependent.

Consolidated on Skye, the catch is brought to Dingwall for packing and rapid despatch to destinations far and wide. Passengers on the overnight sleeper train to London might be interested to know that they are sharing transport with hundreds of wriggling langoustine and briny lobsters.

The good news (though local seafood lovers prefer to keep it secret) is that it’s possible to intercept some of the world’s finest shellfish by visiting Keltic Seafare’s new building in Dingwall. Place your order in person and, a day later, you could be eating exactly what they savour at places like the Savoy Grill or Gordon Ramsay’s Petrus. Incidentally, if you’re not in the area, and a Michelin-starred meal is out of your price range, then a mail-order delivery can be organised via the Keltic Seafare website.

Another rather more earthy string to the Keltic Seafare bow is the addition of wild girolles and chanterelles, picked by local foragers, usually in June and July. These are much in demand by local chefs early in the season – and possibly with those locals and visitors with a taste for the exceptional too.

■ lochduart.com, kelticseafare.com



Crofting

With Highland crofting experiencing something of a renaissance, John Cooke investigates a scheme intended to promote and protect the provenance of crofters’ produce

Marked for Success

T he image of the hard-pressed crofter working his small plot of land while holding down a

number of other jobs is a familiar one. Typically, the produce from that land is the ‘store lamb’, raised on the croft and then sent down south to be fattened (and made profitable) before going to market.

But with the introduction of the Scottish Crofting Produce Mark, that traditional route is being augmented by those eager to explore fully the benefits of such a remarkable means of food production. Certainly, the guarantee of provenance that the mark provides feeds straight into the public’s growing desire to know exactly where the food on their plate comes from.

Launched in 2009, the Scottish

Crofting Produce Mark can be found on beef, pork, lamb, mutton, potatoes, vegetables and soft fruits, eggs and dairy produce, honey and preserves, as well as non-food items such as wool, knitwear and tweed.

The mark signifies that the produce in question comes from a croft, or similar small agricultural holding, in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, with the producer a member of the Scottish Crofting Federation. Importantly, it ensures that the marked product meets certain laid-down standards of quality, animal health and welfare, hygiene and total traceability.

Undoubtedly there is plenty of potential for the mark. The Scottish Crofting Federation is, notably, the

list.co.uk GUIDES



largest independent association of small-scale food producers in the UK.

Of course, there are challenges in getting food to market in a sustainable and efficient manner, across a landscape that is some of the least populated in the whole of Europe. The need for conveniently situated abattoirs, to drive down food miles and maximise animal welfare, is a case in point. For example, adjusted for population, Austria has around 77 times more abattoirs than Scotland, with nearly two-thirds of these on Austrian farms.

Russell Smith, who crofts 76 hectares just outside Bonar Bridge with his wife Evelyn, recognises the problems of small-scale food processing, having shifted from raising poultry for food to breeds for showing when the former proved uneconomic. Besides also raising a flock of 140 breeding Cheviots, he is to be found at the Dornoch farmers’ market once or twice a month with cartons of fresh eggs, proudly carrying the Scottish Crofting Produce Mark. He also gives visitors close-up views of a working croft with a holiday cottage and a mini-caravan park with a stunning view over Loch Migdale.

Russell makes a powerful point: ‘You must remember that buying a crofter-marked product is unique, in that you are not just buying something produced in a way that is traditional and less intensive, truly caring for the land. You are also supporting a system that keeps people in remote areas, people with a stake in

the community. Care homes stay open, schools stay viable; a whole society can live on.’

On their 44-hectare croft at Reidchalmai, near Golspie, Robin and Penny Calvert are also finding fresh ways to make crofting pay. Instead of raising lambs that would ultimately head south, Robin’s strategy was to cut his flock in half and, with the time gained, grow them on himself, to reap the benefits. Key to this has been a home-built cutting room and chiller to hang, cut, slice and pack those sheep, as well as poultry, pigs and locally sourced game. He also makes sausages, hot-smokes lamb, and bakes a tasty ‘crofter’s pie’, all available via his website, or at local farmers’ markets.

The Scottish Crofting Federation is bullish about the future of crofting, petitioning the Scottish Government to create 10,000 new crofts by 2020. That is some ambition, given that there are at present just over 18,000 crofts, according to the Crofting Commission.

For the Federation, crofting is ‘the model best placed to deliver the Government’s emerging policy goals for agricultural and rural development’. Politics aside (and crofting has been wryly described as ‘a parcel of land surrounded by a sea of legislation’), that should mean an increasing amount of locally produced food, with clear provenance, coming to market – good news for locals and visitors alike.

■ crofting.org

Crofting

> AVOIDING ICEBERGS

Knockfarrel Produce is run by Jo Hunt and Lorna Walker from a 40-acre, certified organic croft on the western edge of the Black Isle.

When a consortium of 17 small producers including Knockfarrel were unsuccessful in winning a Highland Council catering tender in 2008, the resulting outcry saw the council change their sourcing policies. In 2012 Knockfarrel and the Natural Vegetable Company won a joint contract to supply salad leaves to 117 Highland schools and 34 care homes.

The feedback has been impressive. ‘Now, I really believe that the chefs want this produce,’ says Hunt. ‘We were originally asked to send lettuces similar to icebergs – but we also chucked in some others.

This year, the Council just asked us to choose the varieties that grow well, and they’ll use them: they’re tastier, and kids eat more of them.’ (Hannah Ewan)

■ knockfarrel.com



Loch & Sea Fish

Fishing for Food

A nyone who has ever been forced off a single-track road north of Lairg by a thundering 40-tonne pantechnicon full of the harvested

fruits of our northern seas should stop and wonder why our glorious seafood is so sought after in the smartest restaurants in Paris and Madrid. Given a little thought and ingenuity you can – and should – be enjoying this bountiful harvest in situ.

The cry is often heard that you can’t buy fresh fish in the North. It’s true that if you’re looking for boutique-style fishmongers you may go hungry, but get yourself to the dockside in any of the small fishing ports dotted round the coast and you will find fishermen only too happy to sell their catch fresh off the boat – and the price might come as a pleasant surprise. Just don’t expect them to take a credit card.

For the more adventurous the best option is to get out and secure your own catch. Bring your own tackle and off you go. First step: ask! Not just for permission, but for advice on the best spots to target. There will almost

always be someone who knows someone who really does know where to fish or dive. If sea fishing is your bag there will be a multitude of shore marks to fish with every chance of mackerel, pollack, bass or even the ugly but delicious gurnard. If your pockets are deeper you can charter local boats who will organise trips ranging from a couple of hours to all-day adventures far out into the Minches to seek out fruits of the deep such as skate and halibut.

The north of Scotland is a fly fisher’s paradise and, although salmon fishing is expensive and not normally available to the casual visitor, almost every loch and burn will hold a stock of wild brown trout. It is a commonly held myth that brown trout fishing in Scotland is free, so you should always seek permission. Often you’ll find there’s no charge, or only a small fee payable to a local angling association. There can be few culinary experiences to beat wild trout fried on a fire, fresh out of a remote loch – perhaps even washed down with a small glass of our national drink.

Exploring the lochs and rocks of the Highlands for fish for the table can be as memorable as the feast itself, as Tom Sampson explains

list.co.uk GUIDES



T he handful of cottage-industry smokehouses found in the far north of the mainland continue

to use traditional smoking and curing methods, drawing from the vast harvest Scotland has to offer and attracting visitors and locals alike. Owners tell how the distinct geographical locations of their smokeries add to the unique flavour of their products. While all are fairly small and generally family-run businesses, their product ranges vary widely. Ask nicely, it seems, and they’ll smoke just about whatever you want.

Right at the northern tip of the mainland sits Caithness Smokehouse. Proprietors John and Christine Inglis chose to set up next to the major fishing port of Scrabster, ensuring that produce is as fresh and as locally sourced as can be. Simple,

traditional methods are used in their large range of smoked products, which include hot- and cold-smoked salmon, hake, haddock, as well as seafood, venison, bacon, goose, cheese – and even butter, eggs and oatmeal for oatcakes. Although they don’t see as many tourists as they used to, John feels the smoking industry is still held in high regard, and reckons ‘people will still pay money for quality goods’. The majority of their produce is delivered to Inverness, with roughly 30 per cent of sales coming via their online ordering facility. Word of mouth has spread their reputation south of the border, and their butter is to be featured on tables at Wimbledon and The Ashes in 2013.

Isle of Ewe Smokehouse is situated on the north shore of Loch Ewe, with the Torridon mountains to the south and the Outer Hebrides to the west. The business is run by husband and wife team Paula and Alistair Gordon, who describe their products as being imbued ‘slowly with aromatic wood smoke and a west

Smokehouses

Smoke SignalsSylvie Docherty tours the artisan smokehouses of the North Highlands

list.co.uk GUIDES



coast breeze’, resulting in a distinctive flavour. The smokehouse incorporates a deli which sells their smoked goods as well as a range of condiments and oatcakes to complement them. Products include smoked fish (mainly salmon and hake – both sustainable), cheese, scallops and garlic. Paula feels people are interested in smaller artisans because they want to know where their food comes from. ‘Food is a big thing on people’s agenda,’ she explains, ‘and visitors want to see the people that make the food as well as talk to them and eat the lovely produce.’

Relatively close by is Ullapool Smokehouse, a small business run by Iain Boyd and Andy Reeve. Their popular stall at the town’s Saturday market is supplemented by mail-order sales, and they also supply to a number of local hotels and restaurants. The pair take pride in doing all the work themselves – from smoking and slicing to packing, dispatching and selling – with over 60 years’ experience between

them in the salmon, herring and smoking business. Their locally sourced salmon, from Wester Ross Fisheries, is RSPCA certified, and the fish is smoked using traditional methods, including their special ingredient of a malt whisky cure. Keen to stand out from the rest of the pack, this smokehouse also offers maple-cure hot-smoked salmon, sea-grown rainbow trout, kippers and smoked cheese.

Over on the east coast of Sutherland, Helmsdale Smokehouse is a family business run by Alexander and Fiona Cowrie. They will smoke any kind of fish caught in the nearby River Helmsdale, as well as crab when it’s in season. Although they now sell only directly to regular customers, they have a good number of these who come back time and time again, and who can even request a particular type of fish to be caught for them and smoked to order.

■ ullapoolsmokehouse.com, smokedbyewe.com, caithness-smokehouse.com. Further details can

Smokehouses

fi



Shellfish

W hat would you do with your own island? Well, Ian and Jess McWhinney, the ‘King’ and ‘Queen’ of Dry Island in Loch Gairloch,

Wester Ross, gave their four acres, house and pier its own name (Islonia), currency (the crab), flag (a crab in a Saltire) and legislation such as ‘all visitors must smile’.

One half of the island’s industry, skipper Ian, hauls up dripping baskets of langoustine, crab, lobster and squats from the depths of Loch Gairloch and Loch Torridon’s crystal-clear waters – and even runs ‘Shellfish Safaris’ – in his traditional creel boat.

The other half, Jess, sells Ian’s catch, alongside Wester Ross smoked salmon, hand-dived scallops and peat-smoked mackerel at the couple’s fish stall five miles away on Gairloch pier, as well as at farmers’ markets in Inverness, Gairloch and Poolewe, and through their website.

Moreover, it’s a green economy. Ian’s freshest pink langoustine leave a tiny carbon ‘claw print’, he says, far lower than seafood companies shipping prawns 12,000 miles over nine weeks from Scotland’s west coast to Thailand, where they’re ‘hand-peeled by workers

earning twenty-five pence an hour, and shipped back to Scotland, breaded and packaged as premium “Scottish Island” scampi for British supermarkets.’

And that’s not all that bothers Ian. ‘Ninety per cent of Scottish shellfish is exported,’ he continues, ‘and the chances are the prawns in your Spanish paella come from here.’ After Ian and Jess saw their shellfish flown live all over Europe, and a crab from Wester Ross in Madeira selling for 25 euro (Ian was getting one euro a kilo for brown crabs), they decided to sell shellfish direct to locals and holidaymakers.

So now, thanks to Ian and Jess, not all of Scotland’s shellfish is sent abroad, and visitors can enjoy the bounty straight from the sea, with views across to Skye and the Outer Hebrides. Although the pair began trading five years ago, Ian’s ancestors, the Mackenzies, have caught and cured fish in Badachro Bay, Gairloch (literally ‘short loch’) since the 15th century. Maybe one day, when their ‘royal weans’ Iona and Isla are on the throne, Islonia will become an independent country. ‘We still have to pay tax, unfortunately!’ Jess jokes.

■ dryislandshellfish.co.uk

In a remote corner of Wester Ross, Sandy Neil discovers a tiny coastal economy that punches above its weight

Home and Dry

list.co.uk GUIDES



Rapeseed Oil

T he Cullisse brand was founded by Robert Mackenzie in 2011 following a trip to Kenya, during which he became involved

in a charity called Farm Africa and was inspired by their cold-pressing techniques. On his return to Scotland the newly qualified solicitor chose to go back to the family farm, also called Cullisse, in Easter Ross. His dad, Ken, and brother Peter do the day-to-day farming of the rape seed while Robert takes care of the pressing, bottling and labelling, and the entire operation is carried out on the Cullisse farm. The simple, stylish bottles – designed by a third-year student of Edinburgh College of Art – are now stocked by shops across the UK, and have attracted some high-profile customers including Yotam Ottolenghi, Nigel Slater and Heston Blumenthal.

Promoted for its health benefits, rapeseed oil contains 50 per cent less saturated fat than

olive oil and has nine times the Omega 3, 6 and 9 content. It is cold pressed in a similar way to virgin olive oil, but has a more versatile nature when it comes to cooking. It can be heated to 230°C, but works as well for salad dressings and dips as it does for roasting potatoes. As to the oil’s flavour, Robert evocatively describes it as ‘subtle tones of nuttiness and summer grassiness, hints of garden peas fresh from the pod, and creamy butter undertones’. Looking to diversify the brand, Robert has introduced his Mixed Pepper & Spicy Marinade – an aromatic oil flavoured with cracked peppercorns, star anise, cloves and smoked sea salt – and further additions are in the works.

Keen to give something back to the organisation that initially inspired the Cullisse enterprise, Robert donates 20 pence from each purchase of his rapeseed oil to Farm Africa.

■ cullisse.com

Oiling the WheelsCullisse Rapeseed Oil is the brainchild of Robert Mackenzie. Sylvie Docherty investigates



Salad Crops

By Leaves We Live

U ntil 2011, when the company was already seven years old, Saladworx didn’t even have a name. Run by husband and wife Michelle Bowley

and David Herbert as a sideline until 2010, it was only when they won high-profile clients such as Albert Roux and Skibo Castle, and a prestigious Highlands & Islands Food & Drink award, that they realised their hobby had turned into a successful business behind their backs.

Bowley started growing salad leaves and edible flowers for her young children after finding it hard to source fresh, local produce in the Dornoch area, where their business is now run from the 50-acre family farm. In 2004 a neighbour encouraged her to take the surplus to their local shop, and it sold well enough to start supplying other shops and restaurants. In the first few years production doubled annually, and has expanded by 150 per cent for the 2013 season.

‘We had these local, prestigious clients, but didn’t realise what we were doing,’ says Bowley. ‘We never marketed except for asking people if they wanted our produce. We had no website, and no paperwork to send out to people – if I was asked for information on our

salads I had to rush something up that night.’In 2012 they took the obvious step into artisan

salad dressings. The impetus was the same as what prompted them to grow 100 different varieties of leaves and flowers, explains Bowley: ‘When our children were young I was buying dressings from anywhere, and found fault with all of them.’ Their own products use ingredients that are as local and chemical-free as possible: both the Highland Premium Hand-Made and citrus-sea ranges use Scottish cold-pressed rapeseed oil, Arran mustard, Scottish heather honey, and of course their own herbs and flowers.

Success may have crept up on them, but running their own business has still been a vertical learning curve, Bowley admits. ‘We came at it backwards. We’ve done everything because we needed to, rather than because we were told we should.

‘If we had known what we would have to do at the beginning, I think it would have put us off. We did it because we enjoyed it, and I would recommend it to anyone.’

■ saladworx.co.uk

From garden hobby to celebrity-chef-supplying business, Saladworx is a success story to confound the marketing gurus, as Hannah Ewan finds out

list.co.uk GUIDES



Grains

U ntil the early 20th century, every parish would have relied on its own water-powered mill. Now, only a handful are even

partially operational in Scotland, often turned into tourist destinations to engage visitors with living history.

Golspie Mill in Sutherland is one of the last fully operational, commercial watermills, grinding peasemeal, rye, bread and plain flour. The original mill was opened nearby around 1815, and was joined by the current mill in 1863. Back then, oats and bere (an ancient type of barley) were the order of the day, but today’s limited bere production means it all heads to Barony Mill in Orkney, and Golspie’s oats are milled over in Kelso. The new mill became the only mill in 1922, and fell out of use altogether in 1953, until a renovation project was completed nearly forty years later.

‘The last miller, Fergus Morrison, is the real hero of this story,’ says Michael Shaw, who has been Golspie’s resident operator since 2001. Morrison and his wife Eleanor spent a decade restoring Barony Mill, and then turned their sights to Golspie, ensuring that the mill’s innards remain fundamentally the same today as at their first grinding.

When Shaw, a New Zealander, married his Scottish wife Becky, he thought he’d take on the milling job for a couple of years. Twelve years later and he’s considering adding a Golspie-branded bakery line to the flours and peasemeal. Running the mill is a full-time, labour-intensive job, as he explains: ‘There’s only enough water to grind a ton of wheat a week, in stints of two or three hours a day. The rest of the time is spent cleaning and maintaining the mechanics and roasting the peas, while the mill pond refills.’

Much of Golspie’s flour is sent to artisan bakeries across Scotland, and the rest is packaged up for speciality food shops – this is no mainstream, mass-produced product. Every grain is organic, and Shaw is limited in the most fundamental sense as to how much he cangrind: when the water’s gone, it’s gone. Rising global grain prices have also been a problem, as they are over double what they were twelve years ago.

Shaw does, however, see one potential bonus to running machinery that operates on water: ‘When the apocalypse comes and there’s no electricity, I’ll be a very important person!’

■ golspiemill.co.uk

Not so Run of the MillHannah Ewan talks to the Kiwi miller operating one of Scotland’s last surviving commercial watermills



Cheese

A ll the world’s myriad cheeses – soft, hard, orange, blue, holey, wrinkled, smelly – spring

from one miracle ingredient: milk. But magically turning milk into cheese is far from easy-peasy.

For a start, cheese is a living organism, requiring vigilance and care to sustain conditions for bacteria and fungi to flourish. Secondly, how the cheese behaves and tastes is largely determined before the animal is even milked.

One variable is species. Sheep’s milk is sweeter than cows’ milk, with undertones of roast lamb and lanolin in a mature sheep’s cheese like Lanark Blue from the Scottish Borders. Good goats’ milk, say in Ailsa Craig cheese, tastes like it has absorbed herbaceous oils of tarragon or thyme on a background of

dry, crisp white wine.Rory Stone of Highland Fine Cheeses,

which was established exactly 50 years ago in 1963, makes six cheeses from cows’ milk, but the breed and feed also affect individual flavour. The richest cow milks come from Jersey and Guernsey breeds, pale yellow with fatty globules for smoother, fuller cream, butter or cheese.

The Dutch breed the world’s highest production dairy cow, the black and white Holstein, producing a lifetime average of 26,000 litres of milk. Often, like dairy herds supplying Highland Fine Cheeses, Holsteins are cross-bred with fertile Friesians, because a cow only produces milk after it’s given birth: so, more calves, more milk.

Seasonally, you may detect high, fruity flavours in milk from September to

A Fine ArtThe act of turning milk into cheese is a delicate balance of science, tradition and craftsmanship, as Sandy Neil discovers

list.co.uk GUIDES



Cheese

May, when cattle feed on silage (pickled grass), balanced scientifically with soya, wheat or lupins for protein, and treacle and oats for carbohydrate. From May to September, cows feed on fields of grass, clovers and meadow flowers, and their milk takes on sweet, caramel, herb and floral tones, so these warm, wet months are the best time for making cheese.

Cheesemaking is, essentially, the art of preserving milk. First, fresh milk is pasteurised to 72°C to kill any ‘bad’ bacteria, before ‘good’ bacteria (or a ‘starter culture’) are introduced. The starter speedily multiplies and sours the milk, converting milk sugars (or lactose) into lactic acid, helping to preserve and harden the cheese. Eventually these organisms mature or ripen the cheese too, breaking down the milk’s natural fats and proteins to create new flavours, smells and textures.

The yoghurty milk then flows into cheese vats, where rennet (an enzyme derived from calves’ stomachs, or from thistles or figs for vegetarians) is added, coagulating the milk into solid curd and liquid whey. When this stiff milk is put into muslin or a pillow case and squeezed, it becomes ‘fresh’, ‘curd’ or ‘cottage’ cheese – low in fat because it still contains watery whey.

Using the traditional, ancient recipes of a Highland croft, Rory tightens the curds more with heat, ‘scrambling them

like eggs’ as he puts it, into a light, lemony Skinny Crowdie – to which he then adds double cream, and rolls into logs tossed in toasted pinhead oatmeal for nutty, buttery Caboc, or with crushed black peppercorns for bitey Black Crowdie (‘Gruth Dhu’ in Gaelic).

Curds destined for soft cheese like brie and Camembert are left simply to drain naturally in moulds and turned periodically, while curds for hard cheese like cheddar are physically pressed with a sieve-like ‘pitch’, cut into blocks, turned and piled to get every last morsel of whey and moisture out. Hard cheese blocks are dry salted, while soft ones are submerged in brine baths.

Finally, mould is introduced to the soft cheeses in high humidity. Mould, like bacteria, breaks down the curd into, for example, a gorgeously ripe and runny Highland Brie, where white mould ripens the cheese from the outside in, for a week or so. For blue mould in their mellow, aromatic Strathdon Blue or the ‘spicy, steely and sweet’ Blue Monday, the cheese is pricked with a skewer allowing the fungal hyphae to grow inside out, for maybe a month. Hard cheeses may wait up to two years to mature, in giant car-wheel-size truckles, wrapped in wax and stacked from floor to ceiling in refrigerated warehouses. Now, where’s an oatcake?

■ hf-cheeses.com

> RIGHT ROYAL PRODUCE

Mey Selections was established as the trading brand of the North Highland Initiative (NHI), launched by The Duke of Rothesay, in 2005. One of the key aims of the Initiative is to foster closer connections between farmers, producers and consumers.

Around £80m of North Highland beef and lamb has been sold through Sainsbury’s since 2005, returning in excess of £1m of premium payments to farmers. In addition, NHI has recently secured an agreement with Campbells Prime Meats, one of Scotland’s leading suppliers, to list the Mey Selections brand as one of a premium range of products for the restaurant and hospitality sector.

This will see a significant expansion of the brand and range of products, with the Mey Selections brand offering a stamp of quality based on provenance.

■ mey-selections.com



Beer

> BREWING UP A STORM

With a first-class degree in brewing from Heriot-Watt University (and plenty experience refining his process in student halls and shared flats) Craig Middleton followed up stints at Colorado’s famed Odell Brewing Co and the Cairngorm Brewery by combining forces with his parents, Chap and Jenni, to launch the Cromarty Brewing Company in 2011.

Their first beer, Happy Chappy, soon got them noticed and six others – including AKA IPA, which featured on many of 2012’s ‘best new beer’ lists – successfully established them as part of the new breed of exciting young Scottish brewers.

Some rcent enhancements to their brewing capacity, a new onsite shop selling direct to the public, plus an online store from summer 2013, means that their reputation is only likely to grow.(Keith Smith)

■ cromartybrewing.co.uk

O f the many craft breweries to have sprung up in Scotland of late, Black Isle is one of

the oldest, most successful and most versatile. Started in 1998 by brewer David Gladwin, it was formed for the most pure of motives. ‘He’d been living on the Black Isle for a while and he was struggling to get a decent pint,’ says David’s brother and partner in the business, Michael, ‘so he decided to start Black Isle Brewery so he could do just that.’

Gladwin explains that the pair had no history of brewing, just a love of good food and drink inherited from their parents and a bit of experience with their dad’s home brew kit when they were younger. In the early days of the company David hired a brewer from Yorkshire to come up and give him some on-the-job training, and also did a course in brewing, and from there he’s been entirely self-taught.

When they started out, says Gladwin, there were around 300 breweries in the UK and now there are roughly 1,100, yet Black Isle’s market now extends across the UK, Europe

and Japan, with inroads expected into North America shortly. ‘Very long hours,’ is what he puts their success down to. ‘We’re a family business; we started out just selling locally, and then we used to get up at four o’clock in the morning every Saturday, load the van and drive down to Castle Terrace market in Edinburgh and stand there selling beer for four or five hours, then head back up the road. We had many years of long Saturdays.’

Gladwin attributes the company’s success quite simply to their stringent organic production process, as well as the famously good-quality malting barley grown on the Black Isle. Despite their growing prosperity, he doesn’t ever see a time when these ideals might be compromised. ‘We have a beautiful bit of ground that we’ve been very fortunate to secure and we’ve spent years nurturing it and turning it into an organic farm,’ he says. ‘We don’t really want to stick a great big industrial brewery in the middle of it. We want to enjoy what we do; we want to enjoy making great beer.’

■ blackislebrewery.com

In the BlackWith craft beer becoming increasingly popular across Scotland, David Pollock meets the team behind one of the country’s longest-running independent breweries

list.co.uk GUIDES


Whisky

> HOLD STILL

Wolfburn whisky won’t be available for purchase until 2016, but simply by setting up in the town of Thurso the brand has already given itself one unique selling point – a few miles north-west of Wick, home to Old Pulteney, it’s now the UK mainland’s most northerly distillery.

‘The idea was to re-invent the old Wolfburn distillery, which was founded in 1821,’ says business development manager Daniel Smith. ‘The ruins of the original distillery are on what’s now farm land and the new one’s 350 metres away in a business park.’

The distillery still draws its water from the burn that gave the original its name. It’s too early to describe the character of the spirit, but Smith says ‘we’re aiming to achieve a very smooth single malt. Much of the early release will be matured in small volumes. We’re hoping the final result will be a world-class whisky.’ (David Pollock)

■ wolfburn.com


Same Old Story?For a long time the northernmost whisky distillery on the UK mainland, Old Pulteney has strong connections with the area’s fishing heritage, as David Pollock discovers

C haracter, taste and rarity are all factors in defining a whisky from an enthusiast’s point

of view, but one other feature might appeal to the smokehead of a romantic persuasion (and aren’t they all?). If a whisky has a story behind it – a bit of history about its location or method of production – then that makes it all the more alluring. In which case, Wick’s Old Pulteney is surely one of the more exciting names on the market.

Sadly it recently gave up its long-held title as the UK mainland’s northern-most whisky distillery when Thurso’s Wolfburn opened earlier in 2013, but Old Pulteney’s heritage stands it in good stead. When it was built in 1826 by the Henderson family it was actually in the village of Pulteney on the south side of the River Wick, opposite Wick itself on the north, although both areas are now part of the same town. With only old drovers’ roads heading away from the villages, the whisky was carried off to market by boat, contributing to part of a heritage which now sees Old Pulteney describe itself as a ‘maritime malt’.

‘It grew up with the fishing industry,’ says distillery manager Malcolm Waring of the whisky. ‘Wick at one point was the principal herring port in Europe; there were something like eleven thousand migrant workers who used to come in and fish for the season, and there were around eleven hundred fishing boats. The distillery grew up with that, this explosion as herring fishing took hold, and it was Pulteney

whisky that was drunk when these guys returned from the sea.’

But does the location actually have any effect on the character of the whisky? ‘You get that salty brininess in it,’ Malcolm says. ‘The casks breathe where they are and they’re taking that in. We use traditional ways of distilling, everything is done by hand, and our stills are quite small and squat, which produces a big, heavy, powerful spirit. If you put that into good-quality casks it produces a nice creamy, citrusy whisky. You’ve got traces of butterscotch, coconut and vanilla, although the twelve-year-old is slightly briny.’ We’d hope for nothing less.

■ oldpulteney.com



GUIDES

Chocolatelist.co.uk

Sweet DreamsFrom their base in Balnakeil craft village, set in an abandoned RAF base left over from the Cold War, James Findlay and Paul Maden export their lavish chocolates all over the world. Keith Smith discovers how they are challenged – and inspired – by the setting

T he rugged, desolate beauty of the north-west tip of Scotland – often referred to as one of Europe’s last great wildernesses – means it is

home to many wonderful and unusual sights, but Cocoa Mountain, a gourmet chocolate business, along with a ‘chocolate bar’ inspired by Viennese coffee houses, is possibly one of the most unexpected.

‘We fell in love with the area while visiting,’ explains James. ‘The dramatic mountains and stunning beaches have inspired many of our chocolate creations.’

‘Balnakeil is famed for its artistic community and we felt that we could tap into that spirit,’ adds Paul.

While the setting might endow them with an abundance of ideas, it also provides plenty of trials. As James admits, running a luxury food business from Sutherland, one of the UK’s remotest regions, isn’t without its difficulties. ‘Distance to market is a real challenge here,’ he says, ‘as is travelling to attend trade events and food fairs – it always means a very early start.’

In the same way this isolated location appealed to James and Paul, they also recognised it would attract a distinct kind of visitor: a discerning traveller,

enticed by the area’s wild, undisturbed splendour and in turn appreciative of quality foodstuffs, and so they complement their mail-order enterprise with a café serving luxury drinks.

And as well as providing creative stimulus, and a stream of judicious tourists, the local area provides another crucial element in the Cocoa Mountain success story.

‘Although we use chocolate from all over the world, the majority of the other ingredients – things like raspberries, strawberries, cream, crème fraiche, butter and whisky – all come from the Highlands,’ says Paul.

But with demand outstripping their production capacity, they’ve outgrown their current space, and the hunt is on for a new site. It won’t be the end of their love affair with the area, though. Cocoa Mountain remains firmly rooted here, with plans to transform the existing premises into a training centre offering specialist chocolate-making courses. ‘We certainly won’t just be packing up and moving on,’ insists Paul. ‘Balnakeil will remain Cocoa Mountain’s creative home and our source of inspiration.’

■ cocoamountain.co.uk



Bread

W hen Robert Burns called Scotland the ‘Land o’ Cakes’, our national bard wasn’t talking about a country of black bun,

jammy sponge and Ecclefechan butter tart, but a land o’ bannock: the staple breid o’ Lowlanders and Highlanders alike, baked on a flat iron girdle hanging above the croft’s reeking peat fire.

But today the bread a Highlander tucks into at the table is as likely to be a ciabatta, roggen brot, Polski schleb or, help ma boab, a blueberry Danish pastry, thanks to the bounty of A-Bun-Dance, a continental bakehouse in Invergordon, Easter Ross.

Master baker Paul Kelly, with his apprentice and nephew James, make the bread every night, while his partner Elanor Gordon delivers it fresh during the day to shops and cafés within a 30-mile radius, travelling with their toddler Finn in the van as far north as Golspie to as far south as Drumnadrochit.

Paul picked up his art, and inspiration, for European bakery from Manchester’s Barbakan Delicatessen, where he kneaded, proved, and knocked for 13 years, baking bread for Manchester United and other prestigious Mancunians. ‘Our

breads are made using traditional hand-crafting skills and traditional baking methods, with original continental recipes,’ says Paul.

‘All the breads are as they are meant to be,’ adds Elanor, listing their chewy bagels, porridge oat bread, Polish poppy seed ‘makoweic’ and German rye ‘Inverlander’. ‘We won Best New Business in the Highlands & Islands Food & Drink Awards in 2009, the year after we started. Considering we started in a recession, we’re doing alright.’

Running their own business, and especially a bakery delivering fresh bread every day around the Highlands, is busy work. ‘There’s no getting round it,’ Elanor says, ‘Manchester is a manic city, and maybe our work now isn’t any less full-on, but we enjoy the rural life. Picking from the garden or on a walk inspires a new bread.’

You can sample the fruits of their labours at The Larder in Alness, as well as nearby restaurants Crannag Bistro, Reids Highland Fare and Luigi’s. Or get in touch to place a minimum order, which Elanor can deliver within 40 miles of Invergordon.

■ a-bun-dance.co.uk

Rise and ShineSandy Neill meets the folk behind A-Bun-Dance, a thriving bakery in Easter Ross whose products are a far cry from the traditional bannock


The North Highlands



North Highland Food Round-up

Further details on many of the businesses shown in bold can be found listed in the Where to Buy section of this guide.

FRUIT & VEG

F arm shops and gate sales are commonplace throughout the region, with many farms and crofts

selling fruit, vegetables, potatoes and preserves via honesty boxes. A number of farms also have popular shops, such as

Puffin Croft Farm Shop and Tomich Farm Shop, while Storehouse of Foulis also incorporates a well-run and busy café. The region is blessed with bountiful soft fruits in the summer – look for Black Isle Berries, Caithness Summer Fruits and Knockrash Growers at local markets. Saladworx has made a huge success out of growing edible leaves (see p.14), and the new Knockfarrel box scheme (see p.9) allows customers to personalise their own weekly delivery. Local farmers’ markets (see p.46) will commonly offer fruit and vegetables in season as well as locally made jams, preserves, chutneys and oils: look out for stalls from companies such as Bumblebee Kitchen Garden, Cullisse Highland Rapeseed Oil and Barracks Preserves. At Highland Wildwoods, shiitake mushrooms are grown by traditional methods on hardwood logs.

BEEF, LAMB, GAME AND OTHER MEAT

M any farms and crofts supply bulk meat orders to fill freezers, as well as attending

at farmers’ markets. You can order a whole lamb from Highland Croft Produce, while Reidchalmai Croft and Caithness Pork sell their wares at farmers’ markets. Half lambs and half pigs, plus a variety of eggs, are available to buy direct from Easter Balmungie Farm. Bridleway Produce offers free-range pork from traditionally reared rare-breed pigs. Bogallan Beef sells cuts from prize-winning Highland cattle at local markets. Mey Selections

A North Highland MenuLooking to discover a taste of the North Highlands? This round-up by Claire Ritchie and Donald Reid introduces you to what’s grown, reared, made and landed in the region

list.co.uk GUIDES



North Highland Food Round-up

beef and lamb are available to buy from Harrold Bros, Wick. Free-range, locally produced wild boar comes from Highland Wild Boar. Fresh (and some pickled) quail, duck, goose and turkey eggs are sold from Drumbhan Croft (achuecroftcottage.co.uk). Wild game can be found on restaurant menus across the North Highlands, with the Wild Game Company, Ardgay Game and Tarradale Game supplying much of it.

FISH

V ast quantities of the seafood landed in North Highland ports such as Scrabster, Lochinver

and Kinlochbervie are either shipped directly to all parts of the UK and Europe, or processed locally before heading elsewhere. But there are a few fishmongers and other seafood specialists in the region where you can pick up locally landed catch, including creel-caught shellfish. Fish vans are still a feature in many towns and villages – ask locally for information on these – while most local farmers’ markets have a seafood stall. Fish and shellfish are big business in the north of Scotland, with the likes of Keltic Seafare (see p.6), and the Freedom Food-approved Wester Ross Salmon and Loch Duart supplying top-end restaurants across Europe, while Alness-based Aquascot, who supply fish exclusively to Waitrose, and other fish processors, are important employers in the area. For a round-up of the local smokehouses, see p.12.

BREAD, CAKES AND CHOCOLATE

T here’s a strong tradition of baking in the North Highlands, with Cromarty Bakery, Avoch

Bakery and the wonderfully named A-Bun-Dance supplying local shops, restaurants and cafés with their daily bread. Ullapool Bakery produces a wide variety of baked goods, from spicy

stem ginger shortbread and chilli cheese oatcakes, to ten-seed sourdough and tomato focaccia (ullapoolbakery.co.uk). Up in Thurso, Reids of Caithness has won a number of Gold Taste Awards for their shortbread. In Forss, Caithness Biscuits produce some fine shortbread and oatcakes (caithnessbiscuits.co.uk). Handmade truffles are the order of the day at Caithness Chocolates in Wick and Cocoa Mountain in Durness (see p.22), while Highland honey can be had from Brora Bees, Struan Apiaries and Skirza Horticultural Products.

DAIRY

Caithness Cheese produce a range of flavoured hard cheeses from their croft in Occumster,

while Highland Fine Cheeses (see p.18) are the company behind some famous cheeses including Strathdon Blue. It’s not all about the cows up here, however: Bulno Goats in Dunbeath make a range of goats’ cheeses that can be found at local farmers’ markets (bulnogoatscheese.co.uk).

WHISKY, BEER AND OTHER DRINKS

A handful of whisky distilleries take advantage of this rugged landscape and briny sea

air to produce the sought-after spirit. There’s Glenmorangie, Dalmore, Teaninich and Balblair in Ross-shire, Clynelish in Sutherland, and Glen Ord, the only remaining single-malt distillery on the Black Isle. Old Pulteney (see p.21) has for a long time been the northernmost distillery on the Scottish mainland, although this mantle will soon be taken up by Wolfburn (see p.21). When it comes to beers, the region punches above its weight in number and scale, with Black Isle Brewery (see feature on p.20), Cromarty Brewing Company (see panel on p.20) and An Teallach Ale Company. On a different note, Berry Good produce fruit-infused vodka and gin.



Where to Buy

WHERE TO BUYIn addition to the shops listed below, North Highland produce can be found at local farmers’ markets (see p.46) or obtained directly from producers featured elsewhere in the guide. Entries are grouped into four geographical areas, and within each area entries are sorted alphabetically.

CAITHNESS & NORTHEAST SUTHERLAND

Berry GoodTiree Cottage, Watten KW1 5YJ01955 621623, berry-good.co.ukJill Brown uses traditional methods to

infuse her vodkas and gins with local

berries. As well as the original Straight

Strawberry and Really Raspberry

varieties, other drinks in the range

now include strawberry, raspberry and

blackcurrant gin, while collaborations

with local businesses have resulted in

a blackcurrant gin jelly preserve and

blackcurrant gin chocolate. Berry Good

products are available to buy via the

website and from a variety of outlets in

the North Highlands.

Blackstairs Fish Sales9 Lower Dunbar Street, Wick KW1 5AR01955 603116, blackstairsfish.co.ukTue–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 10am–2pm (summer only). Closed Sun/Mon.This family-run Wick fi shmonger covers

both the retail and wholesale markets,

supplying a number of local hotels and

restaurants. Their fresh fi sh is bought

only from Scottish boats, and is sourced

daily from Scrabster fi sh market. The

wide range of fi sh available includes the

familiar haddock, cod, salmon, halibut,

monkfi sh, scallops and crab, as well

as smoked fi sh from their own onsite

smokehouse. The shop also stocks a

variety of groceries and a good range of

local produce, including locally milled

Golspie oatmeal.

Caithness CheeseThe Moorings, Occumster, Lybster KW3 6AX01593 721309, caithnesscheese.co.ukCaithness Cheese is a family business,

owned and run by Highland natives

Sandy and Sandra Sutherland and two

of their four sons. Twenty years ago the

family revived the once-popular Caithness

Cheese brand at their croft, perched high

on the cliffs above Occumster Bay. They

purchased their own small herd of dairy

cows and set out to revive and maintain the

rich heritage of the creamy, mild cheese.

From these small, optimistic beginnings,

the Sutherlands now produce the original

plain and mature Caithness cheeses and

several eye-catching fl avours, which are

available to purchase via their website.

Caithness ChocolatesWick 07887 697152, caithnesschocolate.co.ukCaithness Chocolates was established

in 2011 by Wick native Ruth Falconer.

Enticing products in the range include

chocolate fi gures and lollipops, liqueur

chocolates and indulgent truffl es, using

local and sustainable produce wherever

possible. Caithness Chocolates are

available to buy from a variety of local

stockists and via the website.

Caithness Free Range EggsLochquoy Farm, Thurso KW14 8TE01847 821417, caithnessfreerangeeggs.co.ukVisitors welcome – please call ahead.This 100-acre family holding, owned

and operated by Mike and Liz Armitage

together with son Pete, has been producing

eggs for more than a decade, and healthy,

happy hens are paramount to their success.

Each of the fi ve laying paddocks boasts

specially built housing for the poultry,

complete with sizeable foraging areas for

each facility. Freshness is undisputed, with

their own Lion-assured packing centre

on the farm ensuring the eggs reach the

shelves quickly and in tip-top condition.

A recent diversifi cation has also seen them

move into duck egg production.

Drumbeg Stores (page 36)

list.co.uk GUIDES



Caithness SmokehouseInkstack, Barrock KW14 8SY01847 635007, caithness-smokehouse.comVisitors welcome – please call ahead.Located at Barrock, just a few miles from

Dunnet Head, this smokehouse is the

most northerly of its kind on the British

mainland. See round-up on p.12 for more.

Caithness Summer FruitsRoadside Croft, Harpsdale, Halkirk KW12 6UL01847 831232Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Sun.Fresh berries and currants grown on their

croft near Halkirk are available from June

until October, while frozen fruit is sold

all year round. Some of the croft’s fresh

bounty is turned into jams, marmalades and

chutneys, which are sold at their regular

stall at Wick Saturday market and in a

selection of local shops. The farm is open

to the public most days, so you can pop

in for a punnet of fruit and a jar of jam if

you’re passing by.

Carrot’s WholefoodsRotterdam Street, Thurso KW14 8AA01593 741741, highland-futurefood.comMon–Sat 9am–5.30pm; Sun noon–4pmA recent addition to Thurso’s line-up

of independent food stores, Carrot’s is

a vegan-friendly enterprise. As well as

an impressive range of specialist dietary

items and brands, expect piles of fresh,

wholesome produce direct from their own

land – over 80 acres dedicated to pesticide-

and chemical fertiliser-free farming, with

absolutely no animal input whatsoever. A

vegan bakery is also in the pipeline, and

plans are afoot to eventually transform the

fi rst-fl oor space into a café/restaurant.

Castletown ButchersTraill Street, Castletown KW14 8UG 01847 821453, castletownbutchers.co.ukMon–Fri 8.30am–5pm; Sat 8am–4pm. Closed Sun.Having been established for over 30 years,

Castletown Butchers now operates under

T H E L A B E L S Y O U C A N T R U S T

For guarantees of farm assurance, taste and quality, it has to be Scotch Beef, Scotch Lamb and

Specially Selected Pork.

Look out for certified Scotch Butchers Club members

throughout this guide by looking for the Scotch rosette.

To find your local member, visit www.scotchbutchersclub.org

To find out more visit www.scotchbeefandlamb.com and www.speciallyselectedpork.co.uk

Where to Buy



Where to Buy

the watchful eye of Derek MacKay, who

took over the running of the shop in 2008.

As well as the traditional butcher’s offering

of quality meats – lamb, beef pork and

poultry (including burgers and puddings)

– sourced from nearby farmers, they also

stock dairy and bakery produce from local

suppliers, plus fresh fruit and vegetables. A

butcher van service runs Monday to Friday

to the more remote villages too, ensuring

those in outlying areas don’t miss out on

treats like sausage of the day, which could

be Cajun pork, sage and onion or even Irn-

Bru and sweet chilli.

The Fish Shop by JPL Shellfish1 Rotterdam Street, Thurso KW14 8AA01847 895080, jplshellfish.co.ukTue/Wed 9am–5pm; Thu/Fri 9am–5.30pm; Sat 10am–1pm. Closed Sun/Mon.Based in Scrabster Harbour, one of

Scotland’s busiest fi shing ports, JPL

Shellfi sh have been operating for almost 20

years. With an emphasis on quality, locally

sourced produce, the small team supply

produce to some of the best restaurants

and hotels in the North Highlands, such

as Ackergill Tower and Skibo Castle, as

well as sending their produce across the

UK. They also run two retail outlets, in

Wick and Thurso, which are always well

stocked with traditional favourites and also

regularly offer something new. JPL now

also run a retail van which offers a door-to-

door service for customers in Caithness.

FlavoursJohn o’Groats KW1 4YR01955 611399Apr–Sep: Mon–Sun 11am–8pm. Oct–Dec & Feb/Mar: Mon–Sun 11am–4pm. Closed Jan.Mother and daughter Sandra and Artemis

Thain opened this takeaway ice-cream

parlour in a former knitwear store in

2012, much to the delight of the Groats

locals, who regularly queue out the door

for a piece of the action. Stocking the full

range of Brora’s famous ‘Capaldi’s by

Harry Gow’ ice-creams, Flavours more

than lives up to its name, with 25 varieties

available, including a number of dairy-free

options, all served up on speciality waffl e

cones or as part of a bespoke sundae.

If that doesn’t satisfy your sweet tooth,

there’s a host of quality confectionery

too, including items from the Scottish

Tablet Company and chocolates by Cocoa

Mountain.

Golspie MillDunrobin, Golspie KW10 6SF01408 633278, golspiemill.co.ukMon–Fri 9am–5pm. Closed Sun/Mon.Powered by water from the Big Burn,

Golspie Mill is back up and running

making a range of artisan stoneground

fl ours. See p.17 for more.

Greystones FarmWatten KW1 5UG01955 602980, greystonesfarms.co.ukSat noon–4pm. Closed Sun–Fri.Greystones Farm is near Wick, on the

lowlands beyond the highlands. Rather

unusually in these days of big-business

farming, all of their pigs, cows and lambs

are born, reared and butchered right there

on the farm, and are fed on home-grown

crops and cereals. The farm shop is open

on Saturday afternoons, when locals and

visitors can pop in to pick up something

for the weekend roast. They also offer

mail-order sales of all their products,

including freezer packs of pork, beef and

lamb, as well as steaks, sausages, burgers

and bacon. There’s even a gluten-free

range.

Harrold Bros 1 High Street, Wick KW1 4BP

01955 602923Mon–Fri 7am–5.30pm; Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun.Based in the heart of Wick, this family-

run butcher is operated by Neil and his

team, who proudly sell locally reared and

consistently aged meat to the public and

many local restaurants. Welcoming smiles

are a certainty at this butcher’s shop,

where the award-winning beef, lamb and

mutton are nestled between an enticing

product range including sweet chilli

sausages and curry burgers.

Reids of Caithness

list.co.uk GUIDES



Where to Buy

Highland Croft ProduceShinness, Lairg IV27 4DN01549 402630, highlandcroftproduce.co.ukWorking in conjunction with other local

crofters, this tiny family croft on the shores

of Loch Shin, near Lairg, specialises in

high-quality lamb, naturally reared and

fed on a diet of herbs, heather and grasses.

All their meat boasts full traceability, and

their venison cuts come from free-ranging,

rather than farmed herds. Production

is seasonal, so it’s best to order well in

advance, and you might want to go the

whole hog(get) and plump for the ‘whole

lamb’ box, which contains a whopping 20

kilos of meat, to keep you going (although

half-size versions are also available). The

majority of sales are to locals or online,

but it is possible to collect in person should

you order in advance.

Old PulteneyPulteney Distillery Visitor Centre, Huddart Street, Wick KW1 5BA01955 602371, oldpulteney.comMay–Sep: Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Oct–Apr: Mon–Fri 10am–4pmThis distillery continues to make malt

whisky using traditional methods nearly

two centuries after its opening. See feature

on p.21 for more.

Puffin Croft Farm ShopPuff Cross Farm, Canisbay01955 611775Mon–Sun 9am–darkWith almost everything on sale here

grown, reared or produced on this small

croft, whatever’s on display in Gary and

Kris Ridley’s small farm shop is a good

indication of what’s in season. Vegetables –

from courgette to caulifl ower and tomatoes

to turnip – dominate the offering, but

there’s plenty more to keep you going

too, including sausages, eggs, bread and

preserves. The farm shop’s opening hours

are perhaps the ultimate refl ection of

seasonality though: doors open daily from

9am until it gets dark.

Reids of CaithnessHigh Street, Thurso KW14 8AG

01847 893574, reidsofcaithness.comMon–Sat 7am–5pm. Closed Sun. Established in 1963 by Donald Reid, in

2013 this family-run bakery celebrates

its Golden Jubilee of producing oatcakes,

biscuits and cakes. Now run by brothers

Graeme and Gary, the third generation of

the Reid family, the bakery has a string of

awards under its belt, including a number

of Gold Taste Awards for its shortbread.

Having proved such a long-standing

success, Reids continues to produce and

expand its product ranges, which can also

be sampled in the onsite café.

Sinclair Family Butcher 8 Macarthur Street, Wick KW1 5AX

01955 602973 Mon–Sat 7.30am–5.30pm. Closed Sun. A friendly family-run butchers in the heart

of Pulteney, Sinclairs also supply their

wares to hotels, ships and local caterers,

and offer a speedy delivery service for

those customers less able to get to the

downtown shop. Members of the Scotch

Butchers Club, their beef, lamb and pork

can be traced from farm source to shop.

William Mackay & Sons 1 Swanson Street, Thurso KW14

8AP01847 892053Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Sun. In the heart of Thurso, this butchers with

its bright red shop front is a member of

the Scotch Butchers Club, a national

accreditation scheme for independent

butchers. Their meat and produce is

sourced from local Highland farms, with

a traceable history so customers can be

assured of its provenance.

EASTER ROSS & THE BLACK ISLE

Ardgay GameSouthside Estate, Bonar Bridge IV24 3AQ01863 766162, ardgaygame.co.ukArdgay Game are specialists in organic,

wild venison and game sourced from the

Highlands. They supply to a number of

One of my favourite local suppliers is Saladworx. I’ve been buying produce from them since moving to the North Highlands some years ago, and it has been a pleasure to watch them grow.

They produce an incredible variety of leaves and edible flowers all year round – it’s so much more than lollo rosso and endive – and they don’t use chemicals or pesticides, which is an amazing feat in a climate like ours.

Over winter we get some hardier leaves that require cooking to bring them to life, but in the summer the taste of the leaves can be like a firework in your mouth, and the colours and textures are wonderful.

The beauty is they can be served so simply, just with a dressing and perhaps some crunchy vegetables for a contrast in textures.

■ Mikael Helies is Head Chef at Dornoch Castle Hotel (see p.40).

CHEF’S CHOICEMIKAEL HELIES ON SALADWORX



Where to Buy

local restaurants and have a retail operation

via their website, with nationwide delivery

available. A newer operation in the form

of the Wild Game Company began life,

fi ttingly, on the Glorious Twelfth in August

2010. Founded by Highland lad Andy

Waugh (son of the Ardgay Game owner),

the company sells the family produce to

London markets where it’s turned into fi ne-

dining creations at the company’s pop-up

restaurants and private events.

Balblair DistilleryEdderton, Tain IV19 1LB01862 821273, balblair.comTours: Mon–Fri 11am & 2pm.Balblair has been a distillery since 1790,

and that heritage runs through their attitude

to whisky. Bottles aren’t stamped with

an age expression, rather adhering to the

Balblair ‘exclusively vintage’ philosophy.

Distillery manager John MacDonald

tastes casks each year to decide when

that particular whisky is ripe for bottling.

They are then named for the year they

were made, rather than the year they were

bottled – current vintages range 1965 to

2001. Tours run twice a day at peak times.

Black Isle BerriesRyefield Farm, Tore IV6 7SB01463 811276, blackisleberries.co.ukMon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Sun.Black Isle Berries’ farm shop on the Black

Isle stocks their home-grown berries,

plums, apples, damsons and – if you can

beat the birds to them – cherries, as they

come into season throughout the summer.

Some vegetables are grown on the farm

too, and in the winter months the shop also

supplies frozen fruit. There’s the option to

pick your own in the height of summer too

– call ahead for details of what’s available.

The farm shop also sells locally produced

meat, dairy produce and preserves.

Black Isle BreweryOld Allangrange, Munlochy IV8 8NZ01463 811871, blackislebrewery.comMon–Sun 10am–5.30pmThis independent brewery is attracting

attention disproportionate to its relatively

small size. See p.20 for more.

Corner on the SquareHigh Street, Beauly IV4 7BY01463 783000, corneronthesquare.co.ukMon–Thu 8.30am–5.30pm; Fri/Sat 8.30am–8pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Inspired by memories of a fi ne grocer’s

shop that once inhabited the same

building, owner Gary Williamson set

about converting this former doctor’s

surgery back into a deli in 2003. A decade

on, and it’s still going strong, supplying

the folk of Beauly with global delicacies

alongside produce such as fruit, herby

hams and artisan cheeses from much closer

to home. There’s even a weekly fresh fi sh

ordering service (available for collection on

Fridays), plus an extensive range of wines

to wash it all down with. The onsite café is

now open late at the weekend too.

Dundonnell Smoked SalmonGreenacres, Dingwall IV15 9TQ 01349 866500, dundonnellsmokedsalmon.co.ukVisitors welcome by arrangementHaving started off in 1982 as a tiny mail-

order venture, Dundonnell Smoked Salmon

has grown, changed hands and moved from

its original location at Loch Broom to the

current site near Dingwall. Ron and Claire

Palmer now ship their traditional salt-

cured salmon and trout across the UK and

internationally. Organic (and occasionally

wild) salmon is also available, along with

whisky and piri piri versions, as well as

wild hare, venison and game birds and a

selection of fresh seafood, squid ink and

roes. There’s no shop as such, but visitors

are welcome by prior arrangement. Local

stockists include John M Munro butchers.

Easter Balmungie FarmEathie Road, Fortrose IV10 8SL01381 621006, spanglefish.com/easterbalmungiefarmThis family-run mixed farm sits on

the Black Isle overlooking the Moray

Firth with views to the foothills of the

Cairngorms. Here the farming ethos is

about respecting the environment and

conserving the local wildlife, with the

result that fl ocks of endangered wild birds,

such as twite and yellowhammer, are a

Wester Ross Fisheries (page 35)

list.co.uk GUIDES



Where to Buy

common sight on the farm. Rare-breed

Tamworth pigs are raised outdoors on

home-grown grain, while Shetland sheep

roam the hills. Free-range eggs from Scots

Dumpy hens are sold at the farm gate, as

well as duck and quail eggs. Half lambs

and half pigs are available to order, and

turnips, garlic and cabbages are sold in

season.

George Cockburn & Son9 Mill Street, Dingwall IV15 9PZ01349 862315, cockburns-haggis.co.ukMon–Fri 8am–5.15pm; Sat 8am–1pm. Closed Sun.Best known for their award-winning

hand-mixed haggis, Cockburn’s has been

a fi xture on Dingwall’s Mill Street for

almost 60 years. Beef, lamb and pork are

all matured using traditional methods, and

the home-made sausages – not to mention

the black pudding – are every bit as good

as the product that has brought them so

much acclaim. In 1976, they became the

country’s fi rst ever Champion Haggis

Makers, and such is the strength of their

reputation to this day that customers still

travel from far and wide to stock up.

Demand is such they now have a dedicated

mail-order service.

Glenmorangie DistilleryTain IV19 1PZ01862 892477, glenmorangie.comMon–Fri 9am–5pm. Closed Sat/Sun.Situated in Tain, Glenmorangie distillery

produces single-malt whisky from its

own water source, the Tarlogie Springs. A

number of varieties of Glenmorangie are

available: the Original variety is ten years

old, and other bottlings include an 18- and

25-year-old malt, as well as some aged in

port, sherry and sauternes casks.

Glenurquhart FarmGlenurquhart Farm, Cromarty IV11 8XX01381 620332, spanglefish.com/glenurquhartfarmThis family-run mixed farm is owned

by the Aird family, and is run on an

environmentally sensitive basis with

minimal use of chemicals and no GM

feeds. The farm rears traditional breeds

such as Aberdeen Angus and Hereford

cows, and North County Cheviot and

Hebridean sheep. Black Isle Turkeys

are reared on home-grown and locally

produced grain, and are game hung on the

farm to produce the old-fashioned fl avour

of ‘real’ turkey. Various vegetables are

also available in season. You can buy all

produce (including burgers and sausages)

direct from the farm: see the website or

phone for the latest prices and availability.

John M Munro West End, Dingwall IV15 9QF

01349 862158, munrodingwall.co.ukMon–Sat 8am–5pm. Closed Sun.A 75-year history – and six shops

(Alness, Beauly, Fortrose, Muir of Ord

and Tain in addition to Dingwall) –

means that Munro’s is well-established

in the Highlands. It’s more than just a

name though; with around 75 staff, plus

partnerships with the area’s farmers, the

fi rm is an important part of the community.

A policy of sourcing grass-reared livestock

from nearby farms, which is then matured

for a minimum of 14 days, means that the

quality of their beef is a particular strength,

as is the fact that they own and operate

their own abattoir, which ensures complete

traceability from fi eld to fork.

Knockfarrel ProduceIan Mor, Knockfarrel, Dingwall IV15 9TQ01349 86273, knockfarrel.comJo Hunt and Lorna Walker farm a 40-acre,

certifi ed organic croft. Locals can fi nd

them at farmers’ markets, sign up to their

choose-your-own veg box scheme via the

website, or arrange workplace deliveries.

At the moment you can buy Knockfarrel

veg, eggs, berries and preserves, and there

are plans to add apples, pears and nuts to

that list. See p.9 for more.

The Larder5 High Street, Alness IV17 0PT01349 883347, victoriana-florist.co.uk/acatalog/The_Larder.htmlMon–Fri 9am–5.30pm; Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Sun. This Alness farm shop and deli focuses

on local and regional foodstuffs, with an

These days, with so much focus on conservation and sustainability, the single biggest contribution anyone can make towards their own health and that of the fish stocks is eating our seafood when it’s in season.

From heavier, slow braises in winter to quicker, lighter salads in summer, there’s a fish for every dish and a dish for every season.

Fish is versatile; it allows you to experiment. Anything you cook with meat, you can cook with seafood. And try a lightly chilled Gamay or Pinot Noir with your favourite seafood dish.

The main thing is to have fun and enjoy the produce – which is easy to do in the Highlands, where we have very clearly defined seasons.

■ Jim Cowie is the proprietor and head chef of The Captain’s Galley, Scrabster (see p.37).

CHEF’S CHOICEJIM COWIE ON THE IMPORTANCE OF SEASONALITY



Where to Buy

enviable list of award-winning produce

from all over Scotland too. Seasonal herbs,

fruit, vegetables and quality meats are

sourced from nearby independent growers

and producers, and the Larder also caters

for those with specifi c dietary needs. Those

who appreciate good baking will enjoy

the range of fresh goods from a number of

Highland bakeries such as A-Bun-Dance,

Ullapool Bakery and Reids of Caithness.

Reids Highland Fare9 High Street, Invergordon IV18 0AB01349 854107, reidshighlandfare.co.ukMon–Fri 7am–2.30pm; Closed Sat/Sun.As well as keeping the Invergordon locals,

and the town’s visitors, fed and watered

with their café, bakery and convenience

store (all rolled into one), Carl Reid and his

wife Andrea also operate as a successful

outside caterer and cake-maker. It’s

probably the couple’s gourmet pies that

have garnered most attention however,

earning them a swathe of accolades. The

savouries have proved so popular, in fact,

that they now run a mail-order service,

delivering pies by post all over the UK.

Robertson’s the LarderTomich Farm Shop, Beauly IV4 7AS01463 782181, robertsonsfarmshop.co.ukMon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–4pmAlso known as Tomich Farm Shop, and

situated just north of Beauly, the shop

showcases products from the family farm

such as raspberries, strawberries, eggs

and sausages, alongside a large selection

of goods from local producers. All of

Scotland’s larder is on display here, with

langoustines, scallops, smoked salmon,

Stornoway black pudding and fresh local

venison as well as artisan cheese and

home-grown potatoes.

The Storehouse Restaurant and Farm ShopFoulis Ferry, Evanton IV16 9UX01349 830038, thestorehouseathome.comMon–Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 10am–5pm.In their homely and welcoming café and

farm shop, Quintin and Michelle Stevens

sell meat and vegetables direct from

their own farm, as well as cheeses, larder

staples, wine and spirits, bits and bobs for

‘free-from’ diets, and some non-food gifts.

Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea are

served in the self-service restaurant with its

enviable views out to the Cromarty Firth.

Summer Isles FoodsFyrish Way, Alness IV17 0PJ01349 882624, summerislesfoods.co.ukFounded in the 1970s when Keith Dunbar

and his wife Sheila fell in love with the

Summer Isles area while on holiday, in

August 2012 the company relocated across

the country to larger premises in Alness.

Their subtly smoked salmon is still created

using the same blend of rum, molasses

and smoke from peat and whisky barrel

chippings, and the online shop contains a

wide selection of smoked fi sh, meats and

cheese for home delivery, as well as an

organic range.

The Veg Shop, Newhall CrossroadsBallicherry Farm, Balblair IV7 8LH01381 610355, farmtowork.co.ukPlease call for seasonal opening times.Ballicherry is a 400-acre farm nestled into

the north-facing slopes of the Black Isle.

With Udale Bay RSPB Reserve on their

doorstep, thousands of geese, duck and

wading birds fl ock to the area in spring

and autumn, and the farm is also home to

pine marten, roe deer, buzzards and red

kite. They grow wheat, oilseed rape and

malting barley as well as the vegetables

that are sold in the farm shop from July to

December. They also sell free-range eggs

and can take orders for their own pork and

lamb when it’s available.

WESTER ROSS

Dry Island Shellfish / Shellfish SafarisDry Island, Badachro, Gairloch IV21 2AB01445 741263, dryislandshellfish.co.ukIan McWhinney and his family own Dry

Island in Loch Gairloch, offering holiday

accommodation, ‘Shellfi sh Safaris’ and a

The Storehouse Restaurant and Farm

Shop

list.co.uk GUIDES



Where to Buy

stall selling shellfi sh straight off the pier.

See feature on p.14 for more.

Food For Thought West Shore Street, Ullapool IV26

2UR01854 612416Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 9am–2pm. Closed Sun.This award-winning butcher offers an array

of sausages, pies, white and black puddings

and haggis, all made on the premises with

meat sourced only from the Highlands.

They produce their own dry-cure bacon,

too, and in previous years have won

accolades for their sliced sausage.

Isle of Ewe SmokehouseOrmiscaig, Aultbea IV22 2JJ01445 731304, smokedbyewe.comMon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 9am–2pm. Closed Sun.This purpose-built, family-run smokehouse

and accompanying shop specialises in

sustainable salmon and ethically caught

seafood. See p.12 for more.

Kenneth Morrison Strath, Gairloch IV21 2BZ

01445 712485Mon–Sat 7.30am–5.30pm.A family-run business in the village of

Strath, Kenneth Morrison sells a full range

of meat, poultry, game and cooked meats,

as well as fresh fruit, vegetables, general

groceries and even cut fl owers. Sausages,

burgers, black pudding and pies are

produced in house. Head to the welcoming

shop, or have your order brought to your

door by their mobile shop, which serves the

surrounding areas throughout the week.

S & M Mackenzie Main Street, Lochcarron IV54 8YB

01520 722229Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat 8am–1pm. Closed Sun.Opened in the summer of 2011, this

welcoming village butcher’s shop punches

above its weight for a small Highland

village. When the previous owners retired,

Meg and Stuart Mackenzie took on the

high street’s distinctive blue and white

shop and now sell meat as well as useful

groceries and vegetables for locals and

those further afi eld – they have a van that

takes their produce to more rural places.

Ullapool BakeryMoorfield Industrial Estate, Ullapool IV26 2SR01854 613034, ullapoolbakery.co.ukMon–Fri 9am–noon (later if still baking). Closed Sat/Sun.Initially starting out with a small range

of traditional breads such as ryes and

sourdoughs, Alan and Alex Doherty

have expanded that offering in the

intervening decade. They now produce

around 30 different breads, made fresh

from scratch each day using stone-

ground Scottish oatmeal, rye and wheat,

including speciality breads like stilton and

cranberry or raisin and rosemary. As well

as supplying local stores and restaurants,

they’re regulars at a number of Highland

farmers’ markets.

Ullapool SmokehouseMorefield Estate, Ullapool IV26 2SR01854 613881, ullapoolsmokehouse.comThis award-winning smokehouse is run

by Iain Boyd and Andy Reeve, who

together have more than six decades of

experience smoking and working with

salmon, trout and herring. See feature on

p.12 for more.

Wester Ross FisheriesArdmair, Ullapool IV26 2TN01349 866222, realscottishsalmon.co.ukFounded in 1977 by Robin Bradley and

Alan Mann, Wester Ross Fisheries is

the oldest independent salmon farm in

Scotland, rearing salmon from fry stages

through the grower stage to harvesting

and primary processing. The farm is now

owned by four of the original employees,

who joined forces to purchase it when

the previous owners retired. They supply

salmon to restaurants around the country

(and even to some in the States), and both

smoked and fresh salmon are available

from their online shop.

The owner of Mackays Hotel, Murray Lamont, has been buying champion beasts from the local mart for over twelve years.

Our meat is butchered for us by Harrold Brothers in Wick and, under the Mey Selections brand, all of the animals are bred in Caithness. Harrolds know the local farmers who supply the stock and this gives us confidence to buy direct from the farm.

The beef we buy is matured for 35 days and the quality of the meat and the trim the butcher supplies us with are excellent – dark burgundy in colour with flaky, creamy-white fat.

By paying this attention to detail and ensuring we buy top-quality ingredients for our menu, our customers will hopefully enjoy their meal and then not only come back to eat, but also recommend us too

■ Andrew Manson is Head Chef at Mackays Hotel, Wick (see p.37).

CHEF’S CHOICEANDREW MANSON ON CAITHNESS BEEF



Where to Buy

NORTHWEST SUTHERLAND

The Achiltibuie GardenAchiltibuie IV26 2YG01854 622202, thehydroponicum.comApr–Oct: Mon–Fri 11am–4pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Nov–Mar: by arrangement.At this new incarnation of the original

Achiltibuie Hydroponicum, the principles

are still the same – utilising hydroponic

techniques for indoor growing – as are

the links with the community; they still

supply fresh produce to local residents

and businesses. They also sell re-usable,

soil-free growing kits for anyone

interested in trying it out for themselves,

and visitors are welcome during the

growing season to get tips and inspiration

for their own hydroponic set-up.

Achiltibuie StoresAchiltibuie IV26 2YG01854 622496, achiltibuiestores.comMay—Sep: Mon–Saturday 9am–6pm. Closed Sun. Oct—Apr: Mon–Sat 9am—5.30pm. Closed Sun.Family-run Achiltibuie Stores is the

oldest independent grocery shop in the

Coigach area, established in 1900 by

Gardens of Orkney. The shop caters to

all comers, from local trade to visitors,

offering a wide range of everyday basics

such as fresh bread, milk and tinned

goods, but also a surprising range of

fresh fi sh and meat and some organic

produce. The helpful owners can arrange

to deliver shopping to your door –

including to those visiting on holiday

– and more details can be found on their

website.

Cocoa Mountain9A Balnakeil Craft Village, Durness IV27 4PT01971 511233, cocoamountain.co.ukMar–Oct: Mon–Sun 9am–6pm. Nov–Feb: limited opening Mon—Fri. Call for up to date information.Hand-crafted gourmet chocolates and

truffl es are the order of the day at the

UK’s remotest chocolatiers. See feature

on p.22 for more.

Drumbeg StoresDrumbeg IV27 4NW01571 833235, drumbegstores.co.ukMar–Sep: Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun. Nov–Mar: Mon & Fri 10.30am–5.30pm; Tue & Thu noon–5.30pm. Closed Wed/Sat/Sun.In 2010 the Guardian described Drumbeg

Stores as ‘magnifi cent’, and it’s not hard

to see why, for this is no ordinary corner

shop. Part general store, part specialist

deli, part local hangout, the Stores also sell

local crafts, books and fi shing permits, and

can even rent you a Canadian canoe to use

on nearby Loch Drumbeg. A good range

of Highland beers and spirits is available,

including an own-label single-malt whisky.

They operate a free home-delivery service

– and if you’re heading to the area on

holiday, a food hamper can be pre-arranged

to coincide with your arrival. This award-

winning indie is as much a part of the local

landscape as the abundant deer.

WHERE TO EATCAITHNESS & NORTHEAST SUTHERLANDAckergill TowerAckergill Tower, Wick KW1 4RG01955 603556, ackergilltower.comDinner: single sitting 7.30pmAckergill Tower is perched on the very tip

of the mainland, just a stone’s throw from

John o’Groats. Head chef Paul Wenbourne

sources meat, game and seafood from

the estates, rivers and coastline of the

Highlands, while the garden courtyard

provides him with fresh herbs and leaves.

At dinner, the rather grand-sounding Tower

Dining Experience is in fact a relaxed,

informal evening which kicks off with a

canapé reception and follows up with four

courses showcasing local seasonal produce,

with a different menu every day. The hotel

has also built up a strong reputation for

its afternoon tea, available one Sunday a

month and bookable in advance.

Ackergill Tower

list.co.uk GUIDES


Caithness HorizonsOld Town Hall, Thurso KW14 8AJ01847 896508, caithnesshorizons.co.ukApr–Sep: Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–4pm.Set within the Caithness Horizons exhibition

space that occupies the old Thurso Town

Hall, the Gallery Café serves breakfast,

lunch and home-baking throughout the

day. Regular exhibitions of artistic works

by local artists and schoolchildren, along

with the venue’s vibrant social media

activity ensuring a steady stream of visitors

throughout the week, reinforce that the

Gallery Café is quite the community hub.

The Captain’s GalleyThe Harbour, Scrabster KW14 7UJ01847 894999, captainsgalley.co.ukTue–Sat 7–9pm. Closed Sun/Mon.A renovated 200-year-old Scrabster ice

house and salmon bothy, Jim and Mary

Cowie’s much-lauded restaurant serves

fi sh and shellfi sh bought straight from the

pier: every day Jim selects produce from

Scrabster fi sh market or directly from the

fi shing boats. This attention to provenance

doesn’t mean the chef only has eyes for

Scotland, however, as he often puts an

Asian or Mediterranean spin on his dishes,

which might see langoustines served

alongside kimchi, or roast hake brought to

life with smoky chorizo.

Cote du NordThe School House, 2 Kirtomy, nr Bettyhill KW14 7TB01641 521773, cotedunord.co.ukApr–Oct: Wed & Fri/Sat eveningsNestled between mountains and the

windswept, sparsely populated north

coast, this might seem a surprising place

to fi nd a French-infl uenced restaurant.

But with incredible Highland produce

right on the doorstep, and only eight seats

available each night, Cote du Nord has

become something of a destination in

itself. The chef (who by day is the local

doctor) prepares a tasting menu of up to

ten courses based on ingredients available

seasonally – mainly fi sh, shellfi sh and

seafood supplemented by locally produced

beef and pork and foraged herbs and plants.

There can’t be many restaurants anywhere

that serve homemade bread fl avoured with

foraged gutweed and home-churned butter.

Crask InnCrask, by Lairg IV27 4AB01549 411241Advance dinner bookings only.Set in the remote Sutherland landscape

on the lonely single-track road between

Lairg and Tongue, the Crask Inn counts

as one of Scotland’s more idiosyncratic

hospitality experiences. A working croft

with a tough climate and little passing

trade, it’s a place fondly regarded –

despite, or perhaps because of, its lack

of glamour and contemporary touches

– by cyclists, hillwalkers and groups of

fi shermen. There’s a convivial bar with

a glowing stove, maps on the wall and a

couple of Black Isle Brewery taps, simple

accommodation is available, there’s room

for a few tents on the lawn and food is

served by prior booking. In the style of the

setting this is hamely fare such as beef stew

with dumplings or venison lasagne, with

sandwiches for daytime snacks and hearty

breakfasts for overnighters.

Forss House HotelForss, nr Thurso KW14 7XY01847 861201, forsshousehotel.co.ukMon–Sun 7–9pm.This elegant white-washed Georgian

hotel set in 20 acres of woodland and

gardens was built as a country home

for the Radclyffe family in 1810. The

opulent dining room is the setting for

a dinner menu packed with names of

local suppliers, promising lobster, crab

and asparagus, or partridge and salmon,

depending on the season, with local berries

and apples providing the basis for summer

and autumnal puddings respectively.

Provenance is clearly important to the

chefs – they’re even willing to cook salmon

caught by keen fi shers in the nearby river.

Mackays HotelUnion Street, Wick KW1 5ED01955 602323, mackayshotel.co.ukMon–Sun 10.30am–9.30pm.The refurbished Mackays Hotel on the

We are lucky to have a shellfish provider with his own boat who brings us langoustines just about every other day. You can’t get fresher than that. He’s so intrepid, and he seems to have this golden touch, in that the biggest, juiciest prawns always seem to seek him out.

We call them prawns, although really they’re giant langoustines, because when you’re calling a man on a boat, with all the ambient noise – and dodgy mobile reception – you need to use the shortest words possible!

The best thing about getting our produce this way is that it’s so spontaneous. We look out to sea from our restaurant, call our guy on his boat, and in just a couple of hours we can be serving langoustines at dinner.

■ Lesley Crosfield and Colin Craig are chef-proprietors at the Michelin-starred Albannach, Lochinver (see p.43).

CHEF’S CHOICELESLEY CROSFIELD AND COLIN CRAIG ON LANGOUSTINES

Where to Eat




Where to Eat

south shore of the River Wick is home to

the Lamont family, who have welcomed

guests for more than 40 years. The hotel’s

restaurant, No. 1 Bistro, specialises in

traditional Scottish cuisine, and offers

fl exible dining throughout the day, from

light lunches to a fi xed-price fi ve-course

table d’hote dinner. Highland produce

is centre stage here, and provenance is

key, with a menu featuring aged Mey

Selections beef, Charity Farm pork,

Scrabster haddock and Halkirk soft fruits,

with some modern touches from chef

Andrew Manson bringing the produce

to life.

Melvich HotelMelvich, by Thurso KW14 7YJ01641 531206, melvichhotel.co.ukAdvance dinner bookings only.Melvich Hotel has been a favourite with

sportsmen since Victorian times, being

a stone’s throw from excellent salmon

fi shing on the Halladale River. Now, with

an enviable view overlooking Melvich

Bay, the Pentland Firth and the hotel’s

own gardens, the restaurant offers a

six-course, seasonal set dinner menu, and

uses local produce to showcase the best

of Highland meat, game and seafood. As

well as supporting local suppliers, the

hotel has its own polytunnel to grow salad

vegetables and herbs.

The Royal Marine HotelGolf Road, Brora KW9 6QS01408 621252, royalmarinebrora.comThis is a classic Scottish hotel restaurant

complete with tartan drapes, white

tablecloths and royal blue carpets. Despite

the traditional surroundings, though,

modern cooking styles are evident on a

menu liberally scattered with sous-vide

cooking techniques and purée adornments.

Some bold fl avour combinations are here

too: chicken and duck ballotine with

apricot, morel and harissa, or sesame-

coated scallops and prawns with pickled

saffron-infused caulifl ower. More informal

dining is available in the bistro or garden

room, and the open fi re in the lounge,

surrounded by sofas and armchairs, invites

you to relax with a local malt.

The StorehouseJohn o’Groats0844 384 3166, naturalretreats.co.ukMon–Sun 9am–5.30pm. Working hard to promote and support

sustainability in the local economy, the

Storehouse is a combination of fully

licensed café and co-operative shop selling

produce and goods from local businesses

including malt whisky, freshly baked

bread and speciality cheese. As well

as breakfasts, sandwiches and a small

selection of pizzas, there’s also some

local fodder to be found in the form of

the Caithness salmon taster plate, or the

Scotsman’s platter – a Highland twist on

the ploughman’s, which includes oatcakes,

Scottish cheese, local chutney and some

seasonal fruit.

The Ulbster Arms HotelBridge Street, Halkirk KW12 6XY01847 831641, ulbsterarmshotel.co.ukMon–Sun 10am–9pm.The menu at this hotel restaurant changes

each day, refl ecting local seasonal produce

– and if you’ve been lucky enough on the

river, the chef will even cook your catch

for dinner. Halibut, scallops, lobster and

langoustines are sourced from local fi shing

boats; Mey Selections beef and lamb

feature regularly; and venison and game

from the hills are also readily available.

Bar lunches and suppers are also served in

the Anglers’ Nook.

Whaligoe Steps CaféThe Square, Whaligoe, Ulbster KW2 6AA01955 651702, whaligoestepscafe.co.ukTue–Sun 10.30am–5.30pm. Closed Mon.This café is a welcome sight for those in

need of a breather following a steep climb

up the eponymous stairway – but of course

you don’t need to have scaled the 365 steps

to enjoy the café’s eclectic Mediterranean

fare. The café opened in September 2011

and has a simplistic contemporary style

with stunning views from its clifftop perch.

The chef’s Maltese and Italian heritage is

evident in the regularly changing menu

which refl ects the best that the area has

to offer seasonally. A roster of events

including mezze nights, cake-making

Crask Inn (page 37)

list.co.uk GUIDES



Where to Eat

classes and charity ‘pizza & poker’ nights

make for a welcoming café with close ties

to its local community.

EASTER ROSS & THE BLACK ISLE

Allangrange Arms4 Millbank Road, Munlochy IV8 8NL01463 819862, allangrangearms.comOpening times TBCThis newly renovated pub (formerly the

Munlochy Arms) offers modern, bistro-

style food in elegant surroundings. The bar

is well stocked with local beers and malt

whisky and offers a bar-snack menu, while

the dark-wood dining room, complete with

fresh white tablecloths, is the place to visit

for a daily-changing menu showcasing

local produce and the chef’s fl air for

presentation. Hand-dived scallops, wild

boar sausages, roe deer and venison are

often on the menu. The pub has an active

social media presence – check out their

Facebook page for daily menus, specials

and upcoming community events like

fundraisers and bake-offs.

The AndersonUnion Street, Fortrose IV10 8TD01381 620236, theanderson.co.ukMon–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 12.30–11pm. This restaurant and bar with rooms has

been attracting attention since 2005 for

its well-sourced, cosmopolitan food,

huge whisky collection (over 240 single

malts), CAMRA-approved real ale range

and the largest list of Belgian beers in

Scotland, running to over 120. In the

kitchen, Scottish ingredients are given an

international makeover, resulting in the

likes of a Manhattan seafood chowder

loaded with Moray Firth spoots and crab

meat, or a venison Puebla featuring roe

deer fi llet cooked in chocolate and chilli

sauce.

The Birch TreeDelny, Invergordon IV18 0NP01349 853549, the-birch-tree.comTue 6–10pm; Wed–Sat noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon.

The food philosophy at the Birch Tree is

based on seasonal, sustainable ingredients

sourced from equally committed local

producers and suppliers – many of which

are name-checked on the website. The

produce is the star here, and fi ne-dining

formalities are thin on the ground. The

menu changes regularly according to

seasonality and availability, but sample

dishes like Strathdon Blue souffl é,

featherblade of Black Isle beef with

tarragon mash, and locally reared pork

belly with black pudding and apple

puree give an idea of the importance of

provenance to the owner. There’s a touch

of French infl uence at play here, too, in

food that is colourful, eye-catching and

beautifully presented.

Crannag BistroDornoch Road, Bonar Bridge IV24 3EB01863 766111, crannag.comTue–Sat 6–9pm. Closed Sun/Mon.Run by Ian and Kathy Smith, this bistro

serves easy-going food such as Dornoch

Firth mussels or a Bonar Burger, all made

with local ingredients. Takeaway pizzas

and fi sh and chips are also available across

the road at the Smiths’ other enterprise, the

Caledonian Curry Company, as are ready

meals to save cooking of an evening.

Crofters Bistro1 Marine Terrace, Rosemarkie IV10 8UL01381 620844, croftersbistro.co.ukMon–Sat 11am–3pm, 5.30–8.30pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5.30–8.30pm.Reopened in 2013 under new management,

busy Crofters Bistro sits on the edge of

Rosemarkie Bay with uninterrupted views

out to sea. The rustic dining room makes

a relaxed setting for bistro classics along

the lines of fi sh and chips, mussels, steaks

and burgers. The menu changes frequently,

however, and specials might offer some

more surprising options like devilled

kidneys, potted crab and braised venison,

with produce locally sourced as far as

possible. The seafront location offers the

added bonus that there are often dolphins,

seals and a lone otter spotted at play in

the bay.

I love foraging for leaves that will bring a twist to some of our dishes, something our customers might not be expecting.

I pick the nettles that grow abundantly around the chicken shed in spring, when the leaves are still small, then simply douse them in flour and deep fry them to produce lovely crispy leaves. I serve these with my peat-baked potatoes and a sprinkling of Crowdie cheese as a simple dish halfway through the set menu.

Another wild plant I like to cook with is wood sorrel, which comes into flower in early summer. Its refreshing lemon scent makes it ideal as a palate cleanser – I mix it with juiced cucumber to make a sorbet, which I serve with a gin and tonic froth as a refresher between the cheese course and dessert.

■ Chris Duckham is Head Chef at Cote du Nord, Bettyhill (see p.37) as well as being the local GP.

CHEF’S CHOICECHRIS DUCKHAM ON LOCALLY FORAGED LEAVES



Where to Eat

Dornoch Castle HotelCastle Street, Dornoch IV25 3SD01862 810216, dornochcastlehotel.comMon–Sun 6.30–9.30pm.Dornoch Castle was built in the 15th

century and once belonged to the Earl

of Sutherland, but it passed into private

ownership early in the 20th century and

has been operating as a hotel since 1947.

There are dining options to suit most,

whether you’re after a special candlelit

dinner overlooking formal walled

gardens, or a more informal meal in front

of a roaring log fi re. Provenance is stated

on the menu, with leaves from Saladworx,

Dornoch Firth mussels and game from

Muir of Ord featuring regularly.

Greens Market RestaurantMarket Street, Tain IV19 1AR01862 893874Tue–Thu 10am–5pm; Fri/Sat 10am–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon.Just off the High Street in Tain, Greens

Market is a bright, stylish restaurant with

three large windows providing a view

onto Market Street and fl ooding the room

with natural light. Open throughout the

day for coffees, home baking and snacks,

with lunch and weekend dinner menus

putting local ingredients centre stage.

The menu changes regularly, but expect

bistro-style dishes along the lines of

prawn linguine, three-bean casserole, fi sh

cakes, rump of Highland lamb and beer-

battered cod.

Kinkell House HotelEaster Kinkell, Conon Bridge IV7 8HY01349 861270, kinkellhousehotel.comMon–Sat noon–2pm, 6–9pm; Sun noon–2pm.Kinkell House Hotel is a converted

farmhouse, situated on the Black Isle with

stunning views of Ben Wyvis. The award-

winning restaurant serves seasonal local

produce, seafood and meat including

venison liver and 28-day matured beef

on a daily changing menu. There are

beautiful views from the dining room, and

at the right time of year your dinner might

be accompanied by a stunning sunset.

LuigiCastle Street, Dornoch IV25 3SN01862 810893, luigidornoch.comSummer: Mon–Sun 10am–9pm. Winter: Mon–Sun 10am–5pm.A modern, friendly restaurant in the

coastal town of Dornoch, by day Luigi is a

café serving home baking, coffees, soups

and sandwiches. On summer evenings,

however, Luigi becomes a contemporary

restaurant with a pan-European menu

and an emphasis on Scottish seafood and

locally sourced produce. Starters might

be hot-smoked salmon ravioli with dill

butter, or a salad of baked goat’s cheese

with fi gs, while main courses take in sea

bream served with lemon and sage risotto

or a spicy prawn linguine, alongside steaks

and shellfi sh dishes. The setting is bright

and contemporary, with clean lines and

fresh fl owers, bringing a welcome splash of

colour to the area’s dining options.

The Storehouse Restaurant and Farm ShopFoulis Ferry, Evanton IV16 9UX01349 830038, thestorehouseathome.comMon–Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 10am–5pm.In their homely and welcoming café and

farm shop, Quintin and Michelle Stevens

sell meat and vegetables direct from

their own farm, as well as cheeses, larder

staples, wine and spirits, bits and bobs

for ‘free-from’ diets, and some non-food

gifts. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea

are served in the self-service restaurant

with its enviable views out to the Cromarty

Firth. The restaurant incorporates fresh

local produce into its daily changing

menu, which begins with hearty Scottish

breakfasts and moves on to lunchtime

soups, quiches and baked potatoes, while

home-baked goodies are served at any

time. Sofas and newspapers are on hand to

make a pit stop more comfortable, while

free wifi could encourage a longer stay, and

outside seating is an attractive lunch option

on those sunny summer days.

Sutor Creek Café1 Bank Street, Cromarty IV11 8YN01381 600855, sutorcreek.co.uk

The Captain’s Galley (page 37)

list.co.uk GUIDES



Where to Eat

Jul–Sep: Mon–Sun 11am–9pm. Oct–Jun: Mon/Tue 11am–4pm; Wed–Sun 11am–9pm. Boasting one of the few proper wood-fi red

ovens in the Highlands, this bright and

quirky harbourside café majors on artisan

pizzas and shellfi sh landed just yards from

the kitchen door. Daily blackboard specials

are on display every lunch and evening

with options including local venison

burgers, Shetland mussels and imaginative

toppings along the lines of haggis, neeps

and black pudding for their home-made

pizzas. On Saturday nights the oven is also

put to good use slow-roasting Black Isle

pork and lamb overnight in preparation for

Sunday lunch the following day.

WESTER ROSS

Applecross InnShore Street, Applecross IV54 8LR01520 744262, applecross.uk.cominnMon–Sun noon–9pm.There are not many inns in Scotland worth

blowing a gasket on your car over. The

family-run Applecross Inn in ultra-remote

Wester Ross is one of them. If your car

somehow makes it over the notorious, but

spellbindingly beautiful, Bealach Na Ba,

then the rewards are manifest. Take a pew

outside on a sunny day or cosy up inside

with distant views of the Skye Cuillin for

company. Settle down to a heaving plate of

Applecross prawns (langoustines) or whole

local lobster. Meat lovers can sample fresh

Applecross Estate venison and everyone

can fi nish off with some fi ne cheeses from

the West Highland Dairy. They’ve also got

rooms here, if you want stay over. Your

car will be in need of the rest. Your soul

will probably be as rejuvenated the next

day too.

Aroma CaféThe Perfume Studio, Mellon Charles, Loch Ewe IV22 2JL01445 731618, perfume-studio.comTue–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Mon. The bright and airy Aroma Café boasts

spectacular views across Loch Ewe

towards the Torridon mountains, serving a

selection of hot and cold food, homemade

cakes and ice-creams throughout the day.

In clement weather you can take your

lunch outside and watch for otters in

the loch, but on colder days it might be

preferable to curl up with a locally brewed

beer by the log-burning stove.

Badachro InnBadachro, Gairloch IV21 2AA01445 741255, badachroinn.comMon–Sun noon–3pm & 6–9pm.Nestled on the south side of Loch Gairloch,

this place serves simple food using local

ingredients and majoring in freshly

caught seafood straight off the boat. With

beautiful views even after the sun has set

– lights twinkling on the water adding an

air of romance to the whole setting – it’s

no wonder the place gets so busy that

booking up to a few days in advance can

be necessary. Although there are plenty of

wines on offer, whisky and beer dominate

the bar, the most local of which comes

from An Teallach brewery.

The Ceilidh Place4 West Argyle Street, Ullapool IV26 2TY01854 612103, theceilidhplace.comMon–Sun 9am–10pmAt the beating cultural heart of Ullapool,

the Ceilidh Place is a rendezvous for

travellers, musicians, philosophers and

anyone else drawn to good conversation,

good food and good living. Food is served

all day, from breakfast, scones and coffee

to soups and salads, afternoon tea, ‘chittery

bites’, supper dishes and even an after-

the-kitchen’s-closed plate of something.

Conscious of their carbon footprint, they

take pride in getting fi sh from the pier,

tatties from the lochside and herbs from

the garden, although they’ve yet to crack

the bananas.

Kishorn Seafood BarKishorn, Strathcarron IV54 8XA01520 733240, kishornseafoodbar.co.ukMar–Nov: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Jul–Sep: Mon–Sat 10am–9pm; Sun noon–5pm.The setting may be an unassuming blink-

and-you-miss-it cabin by the side of the

> JOHN O’GROATS MILL

The North Highland Initiative and The Prince’s Regeneration Trust are working to to restore John o’Groats corn mill to working order and turn it into a tourist attraction.

So far, they have secured a £230,000 building regeneration grant from Historic Scotland. Chief Executive of the North Highland Initiative, Tom Campbell, explains: ‘We hope people can come and see the restored mill working, and enjoy their built cultural heritage. We hope to grind meal that can then be used to make the scones and cakes sold in an onsite café, and that we can revitalise some traditional rural skills.’

Originally built in 1750, it stopped production in 2001. It’s the last mill in Caithness to retain its working machinery, and the hope is that the mill could be re-opened to the public within three years. (Hannah Ewan)

■ princes-regeneration.org



Where to Eat

lost, lonely road around Loch Carron,

but the seafood here is as spectacular as

any of the epic scenery of Wester Ross.

Sourcing is key. They don’t need to trot out

the names of wholesalers as they are often

on fi rst-name terms with the characters

who caught the plump langoustines,

chunky king scallops and baseball-size

oysters. Seafood platters, heaving with

lobster, squat lobster tails, mussels, crab,

langoustines and scallops, are perhaps the

best value in Scotland, while the unusual

signature dish of scallops with a croissant

and garlic butter is a delicious snack if you

are in a hurry passing by.

Maggie’s Tea RoomCamusnagaul, Dundonnell IV23 2QT01854 633326, camusnagaul.comApr–Oct: Mon–Sun 10am–5pm. Situated in the quiet, picturesque area

of Little Loch Broom at Camusnagaul,

Maggie’s is part of a busy rural community

based on farming, fi shing and tourism,

making it popular with walkers, beach

combers and locals alike. The conservatory

café leads out to a quiet deck with

sweeping views across the loch. Light

lunches feature locally smoked Aultbea

salmon, fresh local salads and Orkney

sweet pickled herrings. Dinner can also be

booked by arrangement.

Na MaraStrath, Gairloch IV21 2BZ01445 712397, namararestaurant.co.ukMar–Jun and Sep/Oct: open 6 days (closed Wed). Jul/Aug: Mon-Sun 3pm-late. Nov/Dec: open Thu—Sun. Closed Jan/Feb. (Please phone or email for exact opening times.)In the spread-out Highland village of

Gairloch, with its complex coastline that

is both rocky and sandy by turn, sits Na

Mara Restaurant. Here the emphasis is on

produce sourced as locally as possible,

including beef and game, and local seafood

suppliers bring in scallops, mussels and

creel-caught prawns, depending on the

daily catch. The menu offers Beauly wild

boar burger, Highland estate venison, Isle

of Ewe smoked salmon and hand-dived

scallops from the Western Isles.

Nanny’s ShopShieldaig, Strathcarron IV54 8XNnannysshop.co.ukEaster–Oct: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun. This little shop was run by Nanny Grant

since 1950, and before that by her father,

who built it in 1918. It seemed like the

end of an era when Nanny died in 2007,

and villagers assumed that the charming

corrugated-iron building would become

yet another holiday home. Now, however,

the shop has been reopend by Lynn Frost

and Lisa O’Brien, and Nanny’s name

continues. As well as stocking local

produce, including Capaldi’s ice-cream and

Loch Torridon langoustines and smoked

salmon, there’s home-made soup on the

menu, along with toast and ‘jelly pieces’,

and they have included a takeaway service

for coffee and home baking.

The Old InnFlowerdale Glen, Gairloch IV21 2BD01445 712006, theoldinn.netMon–Sun 5–9.30pm.With its own micro-brewery onsite, it’s

fortunate that the Old Inn has rooms for

those wishing to try the fruits of a project

that began in 2009 with a 100-litre brewing

plant and resulted in their fi rst ale – an

IPA called The Erradale. Head chef Chris

Bentley serves restaurant and bar menus

strong on Highland game and west coast

seafood – think chilli crab claws or grilled

squat lobsters with garlic bread. Live folk

music is staged every Friday in the summer

months, and regularly in winter too.

Pool HousePoolewe, Ross-shire IV22 2LD01445 781272, pool-house.co.ukAdvance dinner bookings onlyIn true country-house tradition, the

nautical-themed dining room is at the heart

of this hotel, and a set fi ve-course dinner is

prepared for those guests who have made

reservations in advance. Situated just a few

feet from where the river meets the sea,

each table enjoys a view of Loch Ewe and

the opportunity to spot seals, otters and a

wide variety of birds. Chef John Moir’s

award-winning French style of cooking

The Albannach

list.co.uk GUIDES



makes the most of the readily available

local game, fi sh and seafood – some of

which he catches himself. Fresh fruit, herbs

and vegetables come from the Pool House

garden, while their own chickens and ducks

supply free-range eggs.

The Potting Shed Café & RestaurantApplecross Walled Garden, Applecross IV54 8ND01520 744440, applecrossgarden.co.ukMon–Sun 10am–8.30pm.The Potting Shed café and restaurant is

hidden away in the walled gardens of

Applecross House. The owners describe

themselves as a bunch of ‘bumpkins’

who take nothing seriously, except when

it comes to food. Fruit and vegetables

are grown right there in the garden and

shellfi sh is brought back in their boat. Free-

range eggs and wild mushrooms are also

locally sourced, making for an altogether

unpretentious, relaxing foodie treat.

Seaforth Bar and Restaurant Quay Street, Ullapool IV26 2UE01854 612122, theseaforth.comMon–Sun noon–9.30pm.Conveniently positioned by the harbour,

the Seaforth is a popular gathering place

for mariners and landlubbers alike. The

current owners are Ullapool natives with a

commitment to supporting and promoting

the village and its local food, as well as

local musicians who regularly play here.

With an unsurprising emphasis on local

seafood, the expansive bar serves meals

throughout the day.

Summer Isles HotelAchiltibuie IV26 2YQ01854 622282, summerisleshotel.comApr–Oct: Mon–Sun noon–8.30pm.The intimate dining room at Summer

Isles Hotel must have witnessed some

proposals over the years. With its fl ickering

candles, crisp white table cloths and that

sea view, the setting is perfect for romantic

dinners a deux – and that’s before even

thinking about the food. Head Chef Alan

White has been at the helm since 2011.

Fish and shellfi sh are bought direct from

local fi shermen, and there’s even some

foraging done on local beaches and fi elds

for interesting herbs and salad leaves. For

those without the budget or appetite for the

full dinner in the main dining room, there’s

a bar menu available too, the shellfi sh

platter being a particular highlight.

The Torridon InnAnnat, Achnasheen IV22 2EY01445 791242, thetorridon.comMon–Sun 7–8.45pm.Head chef Bruno Birkbeck turns the

Torridon’s remote locale into an advantage,

bringing out the best of the local produce,

with seafood from Loch Torridon itself and

red meats from an award-winning butcher

in nearby Gairloch. Apples, blackberries,

raspberries, potatoes and carrots come

from the hotel’s own two-acre kitchen

garden. Birkbeck then conjures up magical

creations, such as pan-seared Kyle of

Lochalsh hand-dived scallops laced with

a pea puree, smoked pancetta and a pea

espuma; or roast saddle of Applecross

venison, spiced with a black pudding

ravioli, creamed cabbage, beetroot, parsnip

puree and a juniper jus.

NORTHWEST SUTHERLAND

The AlbannachBaddidarroch, Lochinver IV27 4LP01571 844407, thealbannach.co.ukTue–Sun 8–10pm. Closed Mon.Run by self-taught chef-proprietors Lesley

Crosfi eld and Colin Craig, The Albannach

was fi rst awarded a Michelin star in

2009 and has retained the accolade every

year since. The dark-wood dining room,

complete with rugs, log fi re and stunning

sea and mountain views, is the setting for a

fi ve-course dinner showcasing local, free-

range and wild Highland produce. Fish and

shellfi sh are caught and landed in Ullapool

and Lochinver or dived for by friends;

organic vegetables and free-range eggs are

produced by local crofters; a free-range

farm in Morayshire supplies the beef and

lamb, while most game, aside from barn-

reared fowl, is wild and seasonal.

Where to Eat



Where to Eat

Chez RouxInver Lodge Hotel, Lochinver IV27 4LU01571 844496, inverlodgehotel.co.ukMon–Sun noon–2pm, 7–9.30pm. Perched above the fi shing village of

Lochinver, in the unique landscape of

Assynt, Inver Lodge Hotel is the setting

for one of Albert Roux’s three Scottish

restaurants. The restaurant focuses on

French country-style cooking, taking

advantage of the meat, fi sh and game found

in this area and across the Highlands.

Roux’s signature souffl é Suissesse is a

highlight of the starters, while mains like

monkfi sh pithivier and braised pork belly

with choucroute underline the French

infl uence in this corner of Sutherland.

Kylesku HotelKylesku, Lairg IV27 4HW01971 502231, kyleskuhotel.co.ukApr–Sep: Mon–Sun noon–9pm. Mar/Oct: Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm, 5.30–8.30pm.An inn has been servicing the needs

of weary travellers here since the 17th

century, and it’s easy to see why it makes

such an attractive haven. And not only

because the Kylesku is the only option for

miles, but also thanks to the setting and

the views from the restaurant. All of the

crabs, lobsters and langoustines are creel

caught and the scallops are hand dived.

The mussels come straight out of Loch

Glendhu, the beef and lamb are from the

Highlands and the venison is culled wild.

The Lochinver LarderMain Street, Lochinver IV27 4JY01571 844356, lochinverlarder.co.ukSummer: Mon–Sun 10am–8.30pm. Winter: Mon–Sun 10am–4pm.Famous for its eclectic array of homemade

pies, the Lochinver Larder has garnered a

good many fans over the years – so much

so that pies can now be sent by post to

anywhere in mainland Britain. Venison is

the most popular fi lling, but the options

run from chestnut mushroom and red wine

through smoked haddock to chicken curry

– and there are a number of sweet pies too.

The pastry-shy can opt for fi sh or steak

instead, and there’s always a veggie option.

Mackays Durness IV27 4PN01971 511202, visitdurness.comApr–Sep: Mon–Sun noon–3.30pm, 7–8pm.Set within a 150-year-old hotel, Mackays

Restaurant focuses on local Highland

produce, much of which is farmed on

the proprietors’ own land. Set out in

neutral shades, with wood panelling and

slate fl oors, the smart restaurant offers a

daily changing menu of local produce,

understandably with an emphasis on

seafood and Highland meat, and turns out

some creative touches. With few other

dining options available locally, tables can

be at a premium, particularly on summer

weekends, so booking is recommended.

Overscaig House HotelLoch Shin, by Lairg IV27 4NY01549 431203, overscaighotel.co.ukMon–Sat 10.30am–2.30pm. Overlooking Loch Shin, in the heart of

Sutherland, sits Overscaig House. Making

a great base for hill-walkers, history buffs

and twitchers, the hotel is equally suited to

those seeking a couple of nights’ relaxation

with a malt and a good book by the wood-

burning stove. Menus make a feature of

local North Highland venison, Aberdeen

Angus beef, fi sh from Kinlochbervie and

west-coast shellfi sh. To round things off

there’s homemade ice-cream or a selection

of local cheeses.

Shorehouse RestaurantTigh-na-Mara, Scourie IV27 4SS01971 502251Mon–Sat noon–6.50pm. Closed Sun.Perched on the coast overlooking Handa

Island, the tiny, family-run Shorehouse

serves up fresh shellfi sh from their

own boat to those in the know and the

occasional unsuspecting passer-by.

Beautiful views from the conservatory

dining room and a warm, friendly welcome

from the hosts accompany the seafood,

which is cooked simply and served with

salad and buttered potatoes. Child friendly

and open for coffee and cakes throughout

the day, it makes for a handy pitstop on the

way to and/or from Handa.

Dornoch Castle Hotel (page 40)

list.co.uk GUIDES



Events

HIGHLAND GAMES& GATHERINGSThe strong tradition of Highland Games continues each summer, with events held throughout the North Highlands. Featuring competitions in piping and drumming, dancing and Scottish heavy athletics, the games also include entertainment and exhibits of Highland food, farming and culture. And let’s not forget the caber toss.

Assynt (Lochinver)Highland GamesAugust, assyntgames.co.uk

Dornoch GatheringAugust,dornochhighlandgathering.com

Durness GatheringJuly,durnesshighlandgathering.co.uk

Gairloch GatheringJune, highland-gathering.com

Halkirk Highland GamesSeptember, halkirkgames.co.uk

Helmsdale Highland GamesAugust, helmsdalegames.info

Invercharron Highland GamesSeptember, invercharrongames.co.uk

Invergordon GatheringAugust,invergordonhighlandgathering.co.uk

Lochcarron Highland GamesJuly, lochcarrongames.org.uk

Strathpeffer GatheringAugust, strathpeffervillage.org.uk

Tain GatheringAugust, tainhighlandgathering.com

COUNTY SHOWSThese annual displays of farming

machinery, pedigree animals and prize

cabbages take place throughout the

Highlands all summer, with local produce

and crafts tents, catering vans and, in

some cases, chefs’ demos. Important

livestock sales also take place regularly

throughout the year at Dingwall Mart

(dingwallmart.co.uk).

Black Isle ShowMuir of Ord, August,blackisleshow.info

Caithness County Show,Wick, July, caithnessshow.co.uk

Sutherland Show,Dornoch, July, sutherlandshow.com

FESTIVALSB-Fest, Wick B-Fest is a family-friendly music festival

taking place in Wick in August.

bfest-wick.co.uk

Loopallu, UllapoolNow in its ninth year, this wee music festival punches above its weight, more than doubling the size of the village when September comes. The likes of Franz Ferdinand, Scouting for Girls and Paolo Nutini have all played the festival over the years.loopallu.co.uk

Wild Food WeekendA gourmet weekend in Gairloch in September focusing on the best of the North Highlands’ larder, from venison and fi sh to bread, honey and beer. Look out for cookery demos, tastings and even a foraging expedition.visitwester-ross.com

North HighlandFood & Drink Events

> ABOUT THE NORTH HIGHLAND INITIATIVE

The Duke of Rothesay, as The Prince of Wales is known in Scotland, launched the North Highland Initiative (NHI) in August 2005 to promote and develop the economy and to support the rural communities of the North Highlands. The Duke has a longstanding relationship with the area through the Castle of Mey, one of the residences of his late grandmother, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.

The NHI aims to bring together the farming community, local businesses and the tourism industry and create a strong regional identity for the area.

The Mey Selections brand was the NHI’s first venture (for more on this, see p.19). The second phase is a tourism marketing strategy focusing on ‘where the crowds don’t go’.The third phase of the project aims to breath new life into the area’s built heritage.

■ north-highlands.co.uk



Farmers’ Markets

North Highland Farmers’ MarketsFarmers’ Markets are an important aspect of North Highland life – the strong rural communities know the benefit of supporting their local producers, and many of today’s success stories started out with a stall at their local market. Check individual websites for latest news and events

Applecross Producers Market Village HallEvery second Friday,

10am–1pm

achnasheenandgarve.com

Cromarty Community MarketSecond Saturday of the month,

11am–2pm

transitionblackisle.org

DingwallHigh StreetSecond Saturday of the month,

9am–3pm

dingwall.org.uk

DornochDornoch Social ClubThird Saturday of the month

(Mar–Dec), 9am–12.30pm

dornochfarmersmarket.co.uk

Elphin Food & Craft MarketCommunity HallEvery second Wednesday,

10am–4pm

elkcal.co.uk

Ferintosh Community MarketFindon Hall, CulbokieThird Saturday of the month,10am–noontransitionblackisle.org

GALE Community MarketsAultbea: Community HallFirst Friday of the month

Gairloch: Community HallEvery Monday

Poolewe: St MaelrubhasChurch HallEvery Thursday

galeactionforum.co.uk

KinlocheweVillage HallEvery Thursday, 10.30am–12.30pm


LochcarronVillage HallLast Friday of the month

(Apr–Dec), 11am–3pm

lochcarron.org.uk

Loch TorridonVillage HallThird and fourth Friday of the month

Mey MarketMey HallEvery Tuesday (May–Sep),

10.30am–3pm

meyhall.co.uk

North Kessock Community MarketCommunity HallLast Saturday of the month

(except Dec), 10am–noon

transitionblackisle.org

Strathpeffer Food & Craft MarketCommunity CentreThird Tuesday of the month,

9.30am–12.30pm


Ullapool Seaforth Lane car parkEvery Saturday (Apr–Oct),

9am–5pm

WickMarket SquareFirst Saturday of the month,

9am–4.30pm



Index

A-Bun-Dance 23, 27Achiltibuie Garden, The 36Achiltibuie Stores 36Ackergill Tower 36Albannach, The 37, 43Allangrange Arms 39An Teallach Ale Company 27, 41Anderson, The 39Applecross Inn 41Aquascot 27Ardgay Game 27, 31Aroma Café 41Avoch Bakery 27Badachro Inn 41Balblair Distillery 27, 32Barracks Preserves 26Berry Good 27, 28Birch Tree, The 39Black Isle Berries 32Black Isle Brewery 20, 27, 32, 37Blackstairs Fish Sales 28Bogallan Beef 26Bridleway Produce 26Brora Bees 27Bulno Goats 27Bumblebee Kitchen Garden 26Caithness beef 35Caithness Berries 26Caithness Biscuits 27Caithness Cheese 27, 28Caithness Chocolates 27, 28Caithness Free Range Eggs 28Caithness Horizons 37Caithness Pork 26Caithness Smokehouse 12, 29Caithness Summer Fruits 26, 29Campbell’s Prime Meats 19Capaldi’s 42Captain’s Galley, The 33, 37Carrot’s Wholefoods 29Castletown Butchers 29Ceilidh Place, The 41Chez Roux 44Clynelish Distillery 27Cockburn, George & Son 33Cocoa Mountain 22, 27, 30, 36Corner on the Square 32Cote du Nord 37, 39County Shows 45Cowie, Jim 33, 37Craig, Colin 37, 43Crannag Bistro 39Crask Inn 37Crofters Bistro 39

Crofting 8, 9Cromarty Bakery 27Cromarty Brewing Company 20, 27Crosfield, Lesley 37, 43Cullisse Highland Rapeseed Oil 15Dalmore Distillery 27Dingwall Mart 45Dornoch Castle Hotel 31, 40Drumbeg Stores 36Drumbhan Croft 27Dry Island Shellfish 14, 34Duckham, Chris 39Dundonnell Smoked Salmon 32Easter Balmungie Farm 26, 32Farmers’ markets 27, 46Festivals 45Fish Shop, The 30Flavours 30Food for Thought 35Forss House Hotel 37George Cockburn & Son 33Gillies Fine Foods 26Glen Ord Distillery 27Glenmorangie Distillery 27, 33Glenurquhart Farm 33Golspie Mill 17, 30Greens Market Restaurant 40Greystones Farm 30Harrold Bros 30, 35Helies, Mikael 31Helmsdale Smokehouse 13Highland Croft Produce 26, 31Highland Fine Cheeses 18, 27Highland Games & Gatherings 45Highland Wild Boar 26Highland Wildwoods 26Huna Mill 41Isle of Ewe Smokehouse 12, 35, 42John M Munro 33John O’Groats Mill 41JPL Shellfish 30Keltic Seafare 7, 27Kenneth Morrison 35Kinkell House Hotel 40Kishorn Seafood Bar 41Knockfarrel Produce 9, 26, 33Knockrash Growers 26Kylesku Hotel 44Larder, The (Alness) 33Loch Duart 6, 7, 27Lochinver Larder, The 44Luigi 40Mackay, William, & Sons 31Mackay’s (Durness) 44Mackays Hotel (Wick) 35, 37Mackenzie, S&M 35Maggie’s Tea Room 42

Manson, Andrew 35, 38Markets 46Melvich Hotel 38Mey Selections 19, 35, 38, 45Morrison, Kenneth 35Munro, John M 33Na Mara 42Nanny’s Shop 42Natural Vegetable Company 9, 33North Highland Initiative 5, 19, 41, 45Old Inn, The 42Old Pulteney Distillery 21, 27, 31Overscaig House Hotel 44Pool House 42Potting Shed Café & Restaurant 43Puffin Croft Farm Shop 26, 31Rapeseed oil 15Reidchalmai Croft 9, 26Reids Highland Fare 34Reids of Caithness 27, 31Robertson’s the Larder 34Royal Marine Hotel, The 38S&M Mackenzie 35Saladworx 16, 26, 31, 40Scottish Crofting Produce Mark 8Seaforth Bar and Restaurant 43Shellfish Safaris 14, 34Shorehouse Restaurant 44Sinclair Family Butcher 31Skirza Horticultural Products 27Smokehouses 12Storehouse Restaurant and Farm Shop, The (Foulis) 26, 34, 40Storehouse, The (John O’Groats) 38Struan Apiaries 27Summer Isles Foods 34Summer Isles Hotel 43Sutor Creek Café 40Tarradale Game 27Teaninich Distillery 27Tomich Farm Shop 26, 34Torridon Inn, The 43Ulbster Arms Hotel, The 38Ullapool Bakery 27, 35Ullapool Smokehouse 13, 35Veg Shop, The (Newhall Crossroads) 34West Highland Dairy 41Wester Ross Fisheries 13, 27, 35Whaligoe Steps Café 38Wild Game Company 27, 31William Mackay & Sons 31Wolfburn Distillery 21, 27

Index



GUIDES

Name sectionlist.co.uk

The North Highlands of Scotland are defined not only by their spectacular scenery, rich cultural history and unique natural heritage, but also by an appealing larder of food and drink. The area encompasses fertile farmland and marginal crofts, vast estates, deep-water fishing ports and tiny inlets that are the hunting ground for creel fishermen and scallop divers. In the knots of population are many enterprising food and drink businesses from cheesemakers and chocolatiers to craft breweries and whisky distilleries.

This inspiring and practical guide to the food and drink of the North Highlands includes:

■ The stories behind the region’s great produce

■ Detailed listings of the best food shops, markets and producers

■ Profiles of the people producing the region’s food: fishermen, crofters, cheesemakers, brewers and growers

■ Highland chefs on their favourite local food

■ An independent guide to the best places to eat

thelarder.net

theLarderTHE GUIDE TO SCOTLAND’S FOOD AND DRINK

SECOND EDITION

LarderFifeT H E G U I D E T O F I F E ’ S F O O D & D R I N K

SECOND EDITIONGUIDES

LarderTHE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK

OF ABERDEENSHIRE

Aberdeenshire

NorthHighland THE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINK

OF THE NORTH HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND

Larder


North highland larder 1 48

Documents

Transcript of North highland larder 1 48