North Carolina Xeriscape - University of North Carolina

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Xeriscape

North Carolina

Xeriscape is a proactive approach to curbing wasteful use of a valuable natural resource.

Dr. Douglas F. Welsh

President, National Zeriscape Council, Inc.



Acknowledgements

Xeriscape North Carolina was written by Jeri Gray, Technology Transfer Specialist with the Water

Resources Research Institute of The University of North Carolina.

The Plant Guide was prepared by M.A. "Kim" Powell, Extension Landscape Architect, North Caro-

lina State University.

The following people provided information for this publication and/or reviewed the draft and offered

advice and suggestions:

Douglas F. Welsh, PhD, Extension Horticulturist, Texas A&M University

President, National Xeriscape Council

Ray Uecker, Executive Director, National Xeriscape Council

Kim Powell, Extension Landscape Architect, North Carolina State University

Jack V. Baird, PhD, Extension Soil Scientist, North Carolina State UniversityRonald G. Sneed, PhD, Professor and Extension Specialist, Biological and

Agricultural Engineering, North Carolina State University

Arty G. Schronce, Corporate Horticulturist, Hastings, Atlanta, GA

O.J. Warner, Field Services Manager, Hunter Industries, San Marcos, CA

Susan Little, Little & Little Landscape Architects, Raleigh, NC



Table of Contents

What is Xeriscape? ......................................................................... 4

What are the benefits of Xeriscape? ............................................... 5

How do I Xeriscape my yard? ........................................................ 6

Plan ............................................................................................. 6

Improve your soil ........................................................................ 7

Establish practical turf areas....................................................... 8

Select appropriate plants ............................................................. 9

Mulch, mulch, mulch ................................................................ 10

Irrigate efficiently ..................................................................... 11

Maintain your Xeriscape........................................................... 14

Guide to Adapted Varieties for Dry Locations ............................. 15

Vines and Ground Covers ......................................................... 15

Shrubs ....................................................................................... 16

Trees.......................................................................................... 18

Herbaceous Plants Suitable for Sunny, Dry Conditions................ 22

Traditional Landscape Illustration..................................................24

Xeriscape Illustration .....................................................................25

Resources...................................................................................... 26

Bibliography.................................................................................. 27



What is Xeriscape?

The term Xeriscape comes from the Greek word xeros, meaning dry. The concept originated in

Denver, Colorado, in the early 1980s.

Because of severe drought conditions, Denver had rationed water and prohibited irrigation of lawns

and yards. As a result, vegetation in yards withered, and Denver landscapers began promoting what they

called Xeriscape, a landscaping approach that uses small amounts of water but maintains a traditional look.

Since that time the Xeriscape concept has been adopted in many areas of the country experiencing

drought or longterm dry conditions, and actual Xeriscape practices have evolved differently in various

places.

Xeriscape is most widely used in the Southwest. In some desert-like parts of the county, it is inter-

preted literally as dry landscaping. In Tucson, Arizona, for instance, many homeowners have abandoned

irrigated lawns for natural desert landscaping.

In California, Texas, and Florida the approach is more traditional, with an emphasis on more careful

planning, efficient irrigation, and use of drought-tolerant plants rather than total elimination of irrigation.

However, in parts of California suffering from long-term drought and water shortages, Xeriscaping is

mandatory. Developers are required to submit Xeriscape plans before building permits are issued, and the

plans are rated by a point system to determine if they are acceptable.

Some cities, such as Wichita, Kansas, with no water shortage, are encouraging homeowners to adopt

Xeriscape principles as a resource conservation measure and as a way to be prepared when drought

conditions and water shortages do occur.

In the Southeast, where the droughts of 1986, 1988, and 1998-99 made clear the limitations of local

water supplies, Xeriscape is making its debut as water-sensible landscaping. Water districts serving Atlanta,

for instance, are cooperating with builders, landscapers, and nurseries in a Water Wise Council that is

encouraging Xeriscape through a variety of programs, demonstration projects, and publications.

Xeriscape programs are now active in nearly all 50 states.

4



What are the benefits of Xeriscape?

1. It saves water.

Studies in areas of the country severely affected by long-term drought conditions have shown thattraditional landscaping and irrigation practices are often very wasteful. The California Department of Water

Resources discovered that many residential landscapes were being overirrigated by as much as 20 to 40

percent. A study in Marin County, California, showed that landscape water use can be reduced by up to 54

percent without adverse effects simply by the use of more efficient landscaping and watering practices. In

Novato, California, where consumers are being paid conservation incentives to convert to Xeriscaped

lawns, the local water district estimates that water savings can be as much as 120 gallons per landscape per

day in peak-use months.

Reducing peak water demand could extend the long-term capacity of our reservoir and water treat-

ment facility. Because water providers must plan their water storage and water treatment facilities to meet

peak demand, if we reduce peak demand we can delay costly expansion at the same time we accommodatenew residents and businesses in our state. In the long term, delaying expansion of water facilities will pro-

duce significant savings for all consumers. In addition, if we cut our individual water use, we will save on our

water bills, although the monthly savings will be fairly small.

2. It makes our yards less vulnerable to the ravages of drought and water

shortages.

The droughts of 1986, 1988, and 1998-99 have reminded us that, while North Carolina normally has

plenty of water, the state is subject to periodic dry periods and drought. If a prolonged dry spell or drought

should produce water shortages in urban areas, outdoor use of water – including lawn watering – wouldhave to be restricted. Xeriscaped yards would be less affected, or perhaps not affected at all, by water use

restrictions because they make much more effective and efficient use of the water that is available.

3. It allows us to develop a high-quality, beautiful landscape using ecologically

sound landscaping practices.

A well-planned, established landscape that fully incorporates the seven principles of Xeriscape re-

quires little or no synthetic fertilizer or pesticide use. This not only creates a more compatible environment

for outdoor activities but also eliminates the possibility that runoff from our yards and other landscaped

areas might take toxic materials or nutrients to streams and rivers. In addition, if we are able to utilize

clippings and leaves from our trees and shrubs for mulch, we can help reduce the volume of solid waste

going to the city landfill.

5



How do I Xeriscape my yard?

1. Plan

Any landscaping effort should begin with a well-planned design. A landscape architect or designer canprovide valuable help with this phase, but if you want to design your own Xeriscape, there are some publi-

cations that can guide you through the basic process. One free landscape design publication is Residential

Landscaping (Publication AG-248) published by the North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service. This

booklet discusses (1) developing a plot plan showing the boundaries and physical features that will affect

your design, (2) conducting a site analysis to determine environmental features such as soil type, seasonal

sun directions, shade, and wind direction, and (3) locating and developing use areas, such as parking,

storage, play and entertainment areas, to accommodate specific activities. In planning your landscape, you

may also want to consider using water harvesting techniques, such as old-fashioned rain barrels.

To incorporate Xeriscape concepts into your design, some additional thought is needed. The informa-

tion you generate by drawing a plot plan and doing a site analysis should be integrated to identify microcli-mates in your yard. Microclimates are created by differing physical and environmental conditions within the

landscape. Moisture, sun, shade, air movement, and heat all contribute to create zones that have varying

water requirements.

Very Low Water-Use Zones:

Very low water zones are of two kinds. Decks and paved areas require no water. These areas help

provide recreational and living space and are very practical. However, for paved areas, you should consider

using permeable materials such as bricks or paving stones rather than concrete or asphalt to encourage rain

to soak into the ground rather than run off.

Protected areas where the exposure and shade conditions work together to inhibit evaporation are

also very low water-use zones. In these areas, irrigation is needed only to establish new plants. Existing,

well-established vegetation in these zones should be retained and new vegetation should be selected on the

basis of minimal water use. Because very low water zones require little or no irrigation once they're estab-

lished, they offer the greatest potential for saving water. Such shaded areas not only reduce water demand,

they can also lower indoor temperatures and reduce summer cooling bills.

Low Water-Use Zones:

Low water zones are somewhat exposed areas that must be watered to keep plants flourishing but

where water can be conserved by mulching and using an efficient low-volume irrigation system or by taking

advantage of runoff from downspouts, driveways or patios.

Moderate Water-Use Zones:

Moderate water zones are exposed areas with turf or plants with higher water requirements. This zone

should be kept small and should be limited to focal points, such as entrance areas, and functional areas, such

as lawns.

Identifying water-use zones in your yard helps you to group plants with similar water needs together

for watering efficiency.

6



2. Improve your soil

Since plants with deep roots continue to have access to moisture after surface soil begins to dry out, a

primary goal of Xeriscape is to encourage plants to develop deep root systems. In urban areas where the

soil may be compacted, it will often be necessary to physically improve your soil before you can grow

deep-rooted plants. Physical improvement of soil involves tilling to break up compaction and provideaeration and adding organic matter to keep soil porous. In addition, it may be necessary to chemically

improve the soil with nutrients or other materials. Landscape architects emphasize that both kinds of soil

improvements are important to developing healthy, deep roots, and that heavy fertilizing will not compensate

for insufficient physical soil preparation.

Before planting or installing an irrigation system, take soil samples to the N.C. Department of Agricul-

ture Soil Testing Laboratory (919/733-2656) and have them analyzed to determine what improvements may

be needed. There is no charge for the soil test. The lab recommends that you take two samples: one from

your front yard and one from the back. To take a sample, remove a small amount of soil to a depth of about

4" at ten scattered spots, mix in a clean plastic bucket, and pack the soil into a soil sample box. Do not

collect the soil in a galvanized container.

The soil test report will give you information on pH, nutrients, volume weight, and humic matter as well

as recommendations for correcting any deficiency the analysis reveals. Since soils of the southeastern United

States are rather acidic, you will probably be advised to apply lime. If your soil is deficient in phosphorus,

potassium, calcium, or magnesium, recommendations will be made for improvement. However, the lab

analysis is not useful for sulfur, nitrogen, and boron. You may want to add a commercial fertilizer such as

sulfate of ammonia or composted manure to supply both nitrogen and sulfur.

The "volume weight" of your soil reflects density and will reveal if you have a soil compaction problem.

The "humic matter" measurement indicates the amount of organic matter in your soil. Both density and

organic matter content are critical factors in your soil's ability to absorb and retain moisture. Since organic

matter in soils continually breaks down and dissipates, it's likely that you will need to add organic matter,

such as peat moss, rotted sawdust, yard compost, or leaf mold.

Once you know what your soil needs, till the soil to a depth of about 6 inches to break up compaction,

then incorporate topsoil, about four inches of an organic material such as shredded pine bark, lime 9 and

needed nutrients into the top 2 to 4 inches of soil. Tilling your soil to make sure that air and water can

penetrate and providing organic matter and necessary nutrients will allow your vegetation to develop a deep,

healthy root system, which is the key to drought tolerance.

7



3. Establish practical turf areas

Having a water-efficient, ecologically-sound yard does not mean giving up your grass. It does mean

giving some serious thought to where you use turf, the variety of turfgrass you select, and how you maintain

it.

When you design your Xeriscape, limit turf to areas where it provides functional benefits and plan theshapes and locations of these areas carefully. Turf areas should be consolidated into large, relatively flat

areas, with no turf along narrow paths, in median strips, along foundations, or on steep slopes. (See

Xeriscape illustration on page 25.)

A study in North Marin, California, found that outside water use is strongly correlated with turf area

and that the single best indicator of outside water use is turf perimeter. By minimizing perimeter, you not only

reduce turf area but also achieve a layout that allows irrigation with less splash loss on adjacent nonturf

areas, pathways, and pavement.

Along with minimizing turf perimeter, an important factor in conserving water in lawn areas is selecting

a water-conserving, warm-season turfgrass species and cultivar. Warm-season species recommended forNorth Carolina are centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass. Within each species are a number of

cultivars with slightly different characteristics, including the transpiration rate or rate at which the grass gives

up moisture to the air. Consult with your local Agricultural Extension Agent or garden center to determine

which of the available cultivars are most water-conserving. Bermudagrass cultivars which perform very well

as water-conserving materials are often also drought resistant. Like any plant, however, turfgrass must

become well established before it can be expected to exhibit drought tolerance. More information about

turfgrasses is available in Carolina Lawns (Bulletin AG-69) published by the N.C. Extension Service.

The key to saving water in turf areas, however, is sensible irrigation. Extension agents in Georgia found

that during the height of that state's 1988 drought many lawns were suffering from root rot resulting from

excess watering. The lawn watering guide in the irrigation section of this handbook can help you irrigate your

turf adequately but not excessively.

Turf can help control erosion; it can contribute to temperature modification; it can reduce urban glare;

and it can help control dust and mud. Turf is also useful for slowing runoff from landscape areas and can be

of practical benefit in areas like swales. Grass is also functional in open recreational areas and can be

maintained without heavy use of chemicals that have recently caused health concerns.

By choosing a low water-use grass variety suited to our region, fertilizing lightly, mowing high and

frequently and leaving the clippings on the lawn, and managing diseases by eliminating the cause rather than

applying fungicides, you can develop a lawn that will become vigorous enough to offer resistance to weedsand insects on its own. Several publications are available to help you learn to care for your lawn naturally.

One is The Chemical-Free Lawn published by Rodale Press.

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4. Select appropriate plants

Most plants have a place in Xeriscape. It is important to use healthy plants adapted to our area (that is,

plants that can take hot, humid weather as well as hot, dry weather), plant them in the right place, and give

careful attention to getting them well established. Encouraging the growth of deep roots by preparing the soil

and using appropriate irrigation practices is crucial to helping plants establish themselves.

Water-Conserving versus Drought-Tolerant

Although the terms "water-conserving" and "drought-resistant" are often used interchangeably to refer

to plants, the terms do not mean the same, and it is important to know the difference. "Drought-resistant" or

"drought-tolerant" means that a plant can withstand periods of dry weather. The term "water-conserving"

actually refers to the plant's transpiration rate, which is the rate at which it releases moisture into the air

(much the same as perspiration).

Water-conserving characteristics are most important in selecting turfgrass. Although lawns generally

demand lots of water, some turfgrass species are relatively low water users. Most Bermudagrass cultivars

perform well as water-conserving landscape materials, for instance.

Drought-tolerant characteristics are most important in grouping plants in the landscape. A grouping of

drought-tolerant plants, once well established, may not need irrigation at all through a normal summer.

Adding a plant with high water requirements to that grouping may, however, negate the group's water-

conserving benefits.

There are many trees, shrubs, and groundcovers that require little or no irrigation once they've become

established. Crepe myrtles, Chinese and Japanese hollies, and junipers, once established, are extremely

drought tolerant. Many bulbs, such as daffodils, crocus, star-of-Bethlehem, and allium, are very drought

tolerant because they are dormant in the summer. Herbs that come from arid climates, such as lavender,

sage, rosemary, and thyme, are drought tolerant. Many ornamental grasses, such as pampas grass, need

little supplemental water after they've become established. There are a number of drought-tolerant annuals.

A plant guide is provided in this handbook to help you in selecting plants for dry locations in your

Xeriscape; however, this guide is not designed to be an exclusive listing for Xeriscape. Rather than selecting

drought-tolerant plants exclusively, you should place primary emphasis on grouping compatible plants and

helping plants establish deep root systems by properly preparing your soil and using proper irrigation

practices.

Getting Established

When planning your Xeriscape and buying plants to establish it, you may want to consider phasing in

permanent plantings. If you plant small shrubs and trees, underplant short-term groundcovers, perennials,and annuals to protect the young tress and shrubs and provide color the first few years. In addition, if you

are willing to tolerate a somewhat sparse look in your planting beds the first year or so you will be able to

get permanent plantings more well-established. If you plant five-gallon plants, you will achieve a fuller look

sooner. But, if you use one-gallon plants, the smaller, younger plants will develop deeper, more widespread

root systems, and in three to five years will be just as large and far more drought-tolerant than five-gallon

plants. Of course, this will not be true of very slow-growing species.

9



5. Mulch, mulch, mulch

A two- to four-inch blanket of mulch helps conserve water by retaining soil moisture. But mulches

provide benefits in addition to water-conservation. By retarding evaporation, mulch protects plant roots

from overheated soil, a factor that adversely affects many ornamentals as well as some vegetables. Mulch

can reduce or eliminate weeds, which compete for moisture, nutrients, and sunlight. It can also prevent

erosion, and organic natural mulches break down and decompose to improve soil texture and drainage.

Many materials can be used as mulch: peat moss, wood chips, clean straw, leaves, cocoa and pecan

hulls, shredded bark, pine straw. Fine textured mulches, such as pine straw, will trap more moisture than

coarse mulches. Be careful when choosing your mulch not to get material, such as hay, that contains viable

seeds or you will have a multitude of unwanted sprouts throughout your landscape. The same caution

applies to using uncomposted animal manures.

Composting

Although it's not necessary to compost leaves before applying them as mulch, you may wish to do so if

you maintain a compost pile. Green materials, such as plant trimmings, should not be used as mulch but

should be composted. One of the advantages of maintaining a compost pile to supply mulch is that you canuse large chunks of material, such as tree limbs, pine cones, shrub clippings and other yard waste without

having to chip or shred the materials. In a compost pile, larger pieces are broken down so that they are not

unsightly in the landscape. In addition, composted material has already gone through its nitrogen-demanding

decay stage and will not compete with plants for nutrients. Maintaining a compost pile will allow you to use

yard waste instead of sending it to the city landfill, which can help extend the landfill's usefulness. By adding

vegetable and fruit scraps, eggshells, and coffee grounds to a compost pile you can further reduce your

household waste and, if you avoid washing these wastes down the garbage disposal, further conserve water.

The backyard compost pile is quickly becoming a symbol of individual commitment to a sustainable lifestyle,

and composting has been elevated to an art. Many publications are available to help you establish and

maintain a compost pile. Composting for Home Gardens (Leaflet No. 100) is a free publication from the

N.C. Agricultural Extension Service that provides guidelines on building and maintaining a compost pile and

using compost in the yard and garden.

How to Mulch

Before mulching a plant bed, cultivate to remove all the weeds. It's easier to do this early in the season

before the weeds get established. Then work a thin layer of mulch into the soil and add two to four addi-

tional inches of mulch on top.

When mulching around shrubs and small trees, it's best to make an earth basin and keep the mulch

pulled back a few inches. Mulches in contact with trunks of some trees and shrubs may cause rot. Mulch

the entire root zone of the plant out to the drip line.

Mulching is particularly critical for shallow-rooted plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, and dog-

woods.

10



6. Irrigate efficiently

Types of irrigation

Permanent sprinkler systems: Automatic sprinkler systems and permanent manual sprinkler systems

consist of an underground supply pipe with sprinklers installed at intervals. Automatic systems have self-

operating valves and programmable controllers that allow you to schedule water application according to

season and weather conditions. Manual systems require that you open the valve, time the application, andclose the valve. A good bit of technical knowledge is needed to design and install permanent irrigation

systems. In addition, if your irrigation system is served by the city water supply (or any potable supply),

plumbing codes require that you install an approved backflow device to prevent irrigation water from your

sprinkler system from flowing back into the water supply. Landscape architects, irrigation equipment manu-

facturers and dealers, irrigation consultants, and the N.C. Agricultural Extension Service are sources of

technical information about design and installation of these systems.

Sprinklers are best for covering relatively large, flat areas such as turf.

Drip Irrigation : Drip or trickle irrigation delivers water slowly and directly to the root zone of an

individual plant. This system is installed permanently and consists mainly of a supply pipe and low-volumeemitters at or under ground level. The system may be buried, particularly if it is used in a mulched area.

Because it places water directly on the soil at the rate of one to three gallons per hour there is little loss of

water due to evaporation or runoff. Drip irrigation is a fairly recent development, and its uses are not as

firmly established as those for sprinklers. However, it seems to be particularly good for mulched areas

because it can thoroughly soak the area without washing away mulch. (Simply sprinkling mulched areas

lightly can induce short root growth, and shallow-rooted plants suffer in dry periods.) In addition, drip

irrigation may be better for slopes, since it does not cause runoff, and for watering individual trees and

shrubs.

A drip irrigation system may be controlled automatically or manually. Like permanent sprinkler sys-

tems, it requires careful planning and a good bit of technical knowledge. Because it usually operates at low

pressure, some pressure-regulating device must be used, and because emitters are very small and can easily

become clogged, a filter is necessary. There are many additional advantages of drip irrigation, but there are

also a number of potential problems. Again, irrigation professionals and the Agricultural Extension Service

are the best sources of information about drip systems.

The simplest irrigation system is a garden hose or a sprinkler fed by a garden hose. These systems

require a good bit of time and labor and don't provide uniform distribution of water. But, because many

urban residential landscapes are small and don't justify the cost of permanent systems, portable systems are

widely used. If you currently rely on a single portable sprinkler, you can make your system more efficient by

using sound irrigation practices.

Efficient irrigation practices : Regardless of the kind of irrigation equipment you use, you can in-

crease the efficiency of your system by using the appropriate type of irrigation for the area being watered,

by using some objective means of calculating how long you actually need to water, and, if you don't have an

automatic system, by using a timer.

The primary principle of efficient irrigation is water thoroughly and only when it's actually needed. Let

conditions, not the calendar, dictate when you water. If grass needs watering, it lies flat after being stepped

11



on. It may also begin to look dull and bluish-green and leaf blades will begin to fold or roll. Many plants lose

their gloss and start to droop when they need water, before they start to wilt.

When you water make sure that water gets to the deepest roots. Wet the soil to a depth of six to eight

inches. For most soils, this requires about one inch of water.

Sprinkler delivery rate: To determine the rate and uniformity of your sprinkler system and how long

you need to run your sprinkler(s), use this easy guide:

First, determine how much water your sprinkler(s) delivers.

1. Set three flat-bottom cans or coffee mugs at various places on your lawn.

2. Turn on your sprinkler(s) for 15 minutes.

3. Measure the depth of water in each can with a ruler and determine the average water depth in the

cans.

Second, find your average water depth at the top of the chart below and read the number of minutes

you need to water underneath.

Average Water Depth in Cans

3/16" 1/40" 5/160" 3/8" 1/20" 5/8" 3/40" 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2"

80 62 50 40 30 24 20 15 12 10

Number of Minutes to Deliver One Inch of Water in Cans

Watering in the early morning or late evening reduces evaporation loss, particularly if you use a sprin-

kler system. However, watering turf in the late evening may give fungus a chance to attack as the foliage

stays moist all night. So, for turf, early morning watering is best. Adjust sprinklers so you don't water paved

areas. Always avoid watering on windy days.

If water begins to flow off the grass onto the sidewalk or gutter, split your watering time into two

blocks to allow the soil to absorb the water.

If your irrigation system consists of a garden hose and a portable sprinkler, you may wish to water

trees and individual large shrubs by using only the hose or the hose with a nozzle. One of the advantages of

watering trees with the hose alone is that you don't encourage disease by wetting the foliage. You should be

able to soak the root zone in one spot under the canopy of a shrub or tree (do not water at the trunk) by

applying three to five gallons of water. This will take a minute or less using your garden hose. It is not

necessary to water the entire root system. If you thoroughly soak 25 percent of the root system, you will

give the plant all the water it needs at one time.

To see if you've soaked the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches, push a spade into the soil several hours

after irrigating. The spade will move easily through moist soil. When it becomes harder to push the spade,

you know it has reached dry soil. Adjust the irrigation time to deliver the amount of water needed.

12



Watering Priorities: If you should have to restrict water use during dry periods or droughts, you will

need to decide what to water and what not to water.

Make large, valuable and historic trees your top priority. Large oaks are particularly vulnerable to

drought. Do not water around the trunk of an established tree. Water at the drip line--the farthest extent of

the branches. Do not spray water on the leaves of a tree. This can lead to leaf damage and disease prob-

lems.

If you have expensive shallow-rooted ornamentals such as dogwoods, azaleas, and rhododendrons in

your landscape, they should also be at the top of your list. (These ornamentals should, of course, be heavily

mulched.)

Newly transplanted trees, shrubs, and plants should be watered before well-established plants. A

berm of soil in the shape of a ring around the base of newly planted trees and shrubs will direct water to the

root system. Perennial flowers are also shallow-rooted and should be watered if keeping them is important

to you.

Lawns and annuals should be last on your watering list. Annuals are not going to be around anotheryear anyway, and large lawns require so much water that you might have to sacrifice more valuable plants to

water the lawn adequately. You can limit the amount of water you use for annuals but still enjoy color by

growing annuals in containers rather than in large beds. You do have to remember, however, that containers

dry out more quickly. Plants growing in a low water-use zone, that is in the shade, will need less water than

plants in the sun.

13



7. Maintain your Xeriscape

Proper watering, weeding and pruning, mowing, and limited fertilization and pest control will keep your

Xeriscape healthy and beautiful.

Mow your turf grass high (maximum height of one inch for Bermudagrass and two inches for others)

and often and leave the short clippings to decompose and replace nitrogen in the soil. Every time you cutyour grass, you weaken the root system to some degree, and the more you cut the top growth, the more

you restrict root system development. When you remove more than 40 percent of the top growth, the roots

stop growing. By mowing high you encourage the development of a deep root system, which is a key to

drought tolerance and weed resistance. Higher grass also shades the soil more, acting as a living mulch.

Let weather and soil conditions indicate when your turfgrass needs water, and irrigate thoroughly when

water is needed. Fertilize turfgrass lightly two or three times from late spring to early fall.

Maintain two to four inches of mulch around plants and shrubs by stirring up old mulch to increase air/

water movement and then adding new mulch. Because organic matter continually breaks down, it is critical

to renew mulch annually to sustain the moisture-retention capability of your Xeriscape.

Drought Don'ts: During extended dry periods when plants are under stress, avoid fertilizing or pruning

them. Fertilizers can dehydrate plant roots when water is scarce. Pruning encourages new growth, which

needs more water. Also, do not apply pesticides to wilted plants.

14



Plant Name and DescriptionEvergreen Height Growth Light Remarks

or Rate* Required

Deciduous

Vines and Ground Covers

Ajuga Reptans (Bugleweed) E 4-8" M Shade Excellent ground cover in s

Aspidistra elatior (Cast Iron E 1 1/2-2' S Full to Part Very coarse texture. No ser

Plant) Shade

Asparagus densiflorus E 12-18" M Sun to Part Good plant for naturalizing.

(Asparagus Fern) Shade

Celastrus scandens D 20' F Sun Vine which is very aggressiv

(American Bittersweet)

Hedera Canariensis (Algerian E 8"- 12" F Sun-Shade Aggressive groundcover.

Ivy)

Hypericum spp. E 1-4' S Sun or Partial Good low-growing groundc

(St. Johnswort) Shade

Liriope muscari (Big Blue E 8-12" M Partial Sun Many variegated cultivars, c

Lily Turf)

Liriope spicata (Creeping Lily E 8"-12" F Partial Sun Aggressive. Good for slope

Turf) to Shade

Ophiopogon japonicus E 4"-10" M Partial Shade Excellent groundcover for s

(Mondo Grass)Parthenocissus quinquefolia E 30'-50' F Sun or Shade Aggressive vine. Beautiful fa

(Virginia Creeper)

Santolina chamaecyparissus E 1'-2' S Sun Very fragrant. Tough plant i

(Lavender Cotton)

Thymus sespyllum E 1"-3" S Sun Herbaceous perennial. Best

(Mother of Thyme)

*Growth Rate Legend: F=Fast, M=Medium, S=Slow, R=Rapid

1 5

Guide to Adapted Varieties for Dry Loca

This guide is not meant to be an exclusive list of plants for Xeriscape. Most plants have a place in Xeriscape if

place and if they develop strong, deep roots.



Shrubs

Abelia grandiflora (Glossy E 4-6' M Sun to Partial Excellent plant for hedges o

Abelia) Shade

Amorpha fonticosa D 6-20' M Sun A last resort plant for a diffic(Indigobush)

Aralia spinosa (Devil’s D 10-20' S to M Sun Grows well even when negl

Walkingstick)

Aucuba japonica (Japanese E 6-8' S to M Shade Often used near buildings o

Aucuba)

Chaenomeles speciosa (Com- D 6'- 10' M Sun to Partial Good early spring flowering

mon Flowering Quince) Shade

Berberis thunbergii (Japanese D 3'-7' M Sun Barrier hedge-type plant.

Barberry)

Buddleia davidii (Butterfly D 10-15' F Sun to Shade Numerous cultivars availabl

Bush)Caragana arboresceus E 15-20' M to F Sun Good for hedges and borde

(Siberian Pea Shrub)

Ceanothus americanus (New D 3-4' S to M Sun or Shade Low compact shrub with sle

Jersey Tea)

Cornus racemosa (Gray D 10'-15' S Shade or Sun Good dogwood for dry soil

Dogwood)

Cotinus coggygria (Common D 10'-15' M Sun Interesting effect - good spe

Smokebush)

Cotoneaster apiculatus D 3' S Sun Excellent ground cover shru

(Cranberry Cotoneaster)

Cytisus scoparius (Scotch D 5'-6' F Sun Interesting stem shape, brigh

Broom)

Elaeagnus pungers (Thorny D 10'-15' F Sun or shade Agressive shrub - good for

Elaeagnus)

Forsythia intermedia D 3-6' M Sun Excellent yellow flowers ine

(Forsythia)

1 6


or Rate* Required

Deciduous



Hamamelis virginiana (Witch D 5-8' M Sun Aromatic - good winter inte

Hazel)

Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of D 8-12' M Sun Good summer flower.

Sharon)

Ilex cornuta (Chinese Holly) E 8'-15' F Sun Many cultivars to choose fro

Ilex latifolia (Lusterleaf Holly) E 20'-25' M to F Sun or shade Good ‘foundation’ type plan

Ilex vomitoria (Yaupon Holly) E 15'-20' M to F Sun to Partial Adaptable to wide range of

Shade

Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana’ (Dwarf E 3-5' M to F Sun Excellent small holly.

Yaupon)

Jasminum nudiflorum (Winter E 3'-4' F Sun or Shade Will grow much taller if trel

Jasmine)

Juniperus horizontalis E 1-2' S to M Sun Many cultivars available.(Creeping Juniper)

Juniperus communis E 5'-10' S Sun Many uses - typically a scre

(Common Juniper)

Juniperus conferta (Shore E 1-1 1/2' M Sun Excellent groundcover, goo

Juniper) once established.

Ligustrum japonicum E 8-15' M to F Sun Good screen/hedge.

(Japanese Privet)

Myrica cerifera (Southern E 8-15' M to F Sun to Part Excellent hedge or screen. C

Waxmyrtle) Shade

Nandina domestica (Nandina) E 3-5' M Sun Beautiful berries in winter. G

Pyracantha koidzumii E 8'-12' F Sun Beautiful orange berries - c(Formosa Firethorn)

Photinia fraseri (Photinia) E 8-15' M to F Sun Excellent hedge material - i

Raphiolepis umbellata (Indian E 4'-6' M Sun Numerous cultivars - stiff fo

Hawthorn)

Rhus typhina (Staghorn D 15'-25' F Sun to Shade A large loose-open shape - b

Sumac)

1 7


or Rate* Required

Deciduous



Rosmarinus officinalis E 2'-4' Sun Aromatic foliage - not a form

(Rosemary)

Tamarix ramosissima E 10'-15' F Sun Prune in early spring to indu

(Tamarix)Yucca filamentosa (Adam’s E 3'-6' S Sun Coarse needle-shaped folia

Needle)

Trees

Acer buergeranum D 25'-30' S to M Sun Good street tree. Preforms w

Trident Maple drained soil.

Acer campestre (Hedge D 45' S Sun Prefers rich, well-drained so

Maple) conditions.

Acer rubrum (Red Maple) D 45' M Sun Excellent tree for any mediu

Acer tataricum (Tartarian D 15'-20' S-M Sun Usually multi-stemmed han

Maple) planter. Stress tree conditionAlbizia julibrissin (Mimosa) D 25'-35' R Sun Weak branch structure. Inte

Aronia arbutifolia (Red D 6'-10' S Sun Beautiful red berries and fol

Chockeberry)

Betula nigra (River Birch) D 25-40' M Sun to part Multiple stems - are quite po

Shade

Broussonetia papyrifera D 40'-50' F Sun Easy to grow on almost any

(Paper Mulberry) pests.

Carpinus caroliniana D 20-30' S Heavy shade Performs best in shaded are

(American Hornbeam or Ironwood)

Castanea mollissima D 40'-60' S to M Sun Burrs litter the area under tr(Chinese Chestnut) drives, etc.

Catalpa speciosa (Northern D 40'-60' M to F Sun or Partial Very coarse texture - brittle

Catalpa) Shade

Crataegus phaenopyrum D 25'-30' M Sun Excellent specimen plant - b

(Washington Hawthorn)

1 8


or Rate* Required

Deciduous



Cedrus atlantic (Atlas Cedar) D 40’-60' S Sun to Partial Excellent evergreen cedar; m

ShadeCeltis occidentalis (Common D 40-60' M to F Sun Good tree for open areas -

Hackberry)

Cercis canadensis (Eastern D 20-30' M Sun to Light Beautiful flowers in spring. M

Redbud) Shade

Cladrastis lutea (American D 30-50' M Sun Good shade tree for limited

Yellowwood)

Corylus colurna (Turkish D 40'-50' M Sun Thrives in adverse condition

Filbert)

Crataegus phaenopyrum D 25-30' M Sun Excellent speciment plant - b

(Washington Hawthorn)

Cupressus arizonica (Arizona E 30-40' M Sun Do not plant in shaded areaCypress)

Diospyros virginiana D 5'-60' S to M Sun Beautiful bark texture. Som

(Common Persimmon)

Fraxinus americana (White D 50'-80' M Sun Not as adaptable as Fraxinu

Ash) landscape value.

Fraxinus pennsylvanica D 50'-60' F Sun Can be used for a variety of

(Green Ash)

Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo) D 50-70' S to M Sun Unique foliage. Relatively p

Gleditsia triacanthos D 30-70' F Sun Numerous cultivars. Suscep

(Thornless Honeylocust)

Gymnocladus dioicus D 60'-75' S to M Sun Pods can become a litter pro

(Kentucky Coffeetree)

Hippophae rhamnoides D 12'-30' M Sun Excellent fruit interest in win

(Common Seabuckthorn)

Ilex x. Nellie R. Stevens E 15'-25' F Sun Excellent screening plant.

(Nellie R. Steven’s Holly)

Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) D 50-75' S Sun Very slow-growing tree. Va

crop.

1 9

Plant N ame and Des crip tionEverg reen Heigh t Growth Light Remarks

or Rate* Required

De cidu ous



Koelreuteria paniculata D 30'-40' M to F Sun Yellow flowers in summer.

(Goldenraintree)

Lagerstroemia indica (Crape D 15-20' M Sun A favorite multi-stem summ

Myrtle) cultivars available.Liquidambar styraciflua D 50-75' M Sun Fruit can become quite a nu

(Sweetgum) popular cultivar.

Maclura pomifera (Osage- D 20'-40' F Sun Not recommended for smal

orange) quite painful.

Magnolia grandiflora E 60-70' M Sun to Part A favorite evergreen that ne

(Southern Magnolia) Shade lower branches.

Morus alba (White Mulberry) D 30-50' F Full Sun to Somewhat messy tree- larg

Light Shade capabilities.

Picea pungens (Colorado E 30'-60' S to M Sun Blue-gray foliage - many cu

Spruce)

Pinus virginiana (Virginia E 15'-40' M Sun Not a great ornamental but a

Pine)

Pistachia chinenss (Chinese D 30'-35' M Sun Excellent f all color. Resista

Pistache)

Prunus caroliniana (Carolina E 20-30' F Shade Good medium-sized evergr

Cherry Laurel)

Prunus cerasif era (Cherry D 15'-30' F Sun Atropurpurea’ is most popu

Plum) foliage.

Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’ D 35-50' F Sun Popular fast-growing early-b

(Bradford Pear)

Quercus acutissima D 35-50' M to F Sun Nice clean oak. For lawns o(Sawtooth Oak)

Quercus marilandica D 30-40' S Sun Shrubby type oak often gro

(Blackjack Oak)

Quercus stellata (Post Oak) D 40'-50' S Sun A good shade tree for poor

2 0


or Rate* Required

Deciduous



Robinia pseudoacacia (Black D 30'-50' F Sun Survives in worst locations

Locust) quite acceptable.

Sophora japonica (Japanese D 50'-75' M to F Sun Good open area tree. Not re

Pagodatree) spaces.

Tilia tomentosa (Silver D 50'-70' M Sun Best of lindens which tolera

Linden)

Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese D 40'-50' M to F Sun Good tree for urban areas. D

Elm)

Zelkova serrata (Japanese D 50'-80' M Sun Good all-around choice for

Zelkova)


or Rate* Required

Deciduous

2 1



Herbaceous Plants Suitable for Sunny, Dry

ConditionsAchillea millefolium

Amaranthus tricolorAnthemis tinctoria

Arabis caucasica

Arctotis stoechadifolia

Artemisia spp.

Asclepias tuberosa

Aubrieta deltoidea

Aurinia saxatilis

Catharanthus roseus

Celosia spp.

Centaurea montana

Cerastium. tomentosumCoreopsis spp.

Cosmos spp.

Dimorphotheca sinuata

Dyssodia tenuiloba

Echinacea purpurea

Echinops exaltatus

Eryngium spp.

Eschshlozia californica

Euphoria spp.

Festuca ovina var.glauca

Gaillardia spp.

Gazania rigens

Gomphrena globosa

Helianthus spp.

Hemerocallis hybrids

Iberis sempervirens

Kochia scoparia f. trichophylla

Liatris scariosa

Limonium spp.

Lonas annua

Miscanthus spp.Ocimum basilicum

Oenothera spp.

Opuntia humifusa

Pennisetum spp.

Phlox subulata

Polygonum cuspidatum var.compactum

Portulaca grandiflora

Potentilla spp.

Common Yarrow

Joseph's Coat AmaranthGolden Marguerite

Rock Cress

African Daisy

Angel's Hair

Butterfly Weed

False Rockcress

Basket of Gold

Madagascar Perwinkle

Cockscomb

Perennial Bachelor's Bottom

Snow-in-SummerCoreopsis

Cosmos

Cape Marigold

Golden Fleece

Purple Coneflower

Globe Thistle

Sea Holly

California Poppy

Euphoria

Blue Fescue

Blanket Flower

Treasure Flower

Globe Amaranth

Sunflower

Daylily

Candytuff

Summer Cypress

Tall Gayflower

Statice

Yellow Ageratum

Eulalia GrassSweet Basil

Sundrops

Prickley Pear Cactus

Fountain Grass

Phlox

Fleeceflower

Moss Rose

Cinquefoils

22



Rudbeckia spp.

Sanvitalia procumbensSaponaria ocymoides

Sedum spp.

Sempervivum tectorum

Senecio cineraria

Stachys byzantia

Tithonia rotundifolia

Verbascum, chaixii

Xanthisma texanum

Zinnia elegans

Black-eyed Susan

Creeping ZinniaRock Soapwort

Sedum

Hen & Chickens

Dusty Miller

Lamb's ear

Mexican Sunflower

Mullein

Star of Texas

Zinnia

23



Resources

The National Arboretum Book of Outstanding Garden Plants

Jacqueline Heriteau, Marc Cathey

1990 The Stonesong Press

Wyman's Gardening Encyclopedia

Donald Wyman

Herbaceous Ornamental Plants

Steven Still

1982 Stipes Publishing Company

Manual of Woody Landscape Plants

Mike Dirr

1990 Stipes Publishing Company

Pocketguide to Choosing Woody Ornamentals

Gerd Kriissman

1982 Timber Press

26



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Agricultural Extension Service) August 1989: 3.

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"Xeriscape isn't just a desert concept anymore." U.S. Water News September 1989: 19.

North Carolina Xeriscape - University of North Carolina

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