Next Meeting: January 10 · To help you meet not only the challenges, but the consumer demands...

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MWSCC CHAPTER EDUCATIONAL DINNER MEETING “Current Trends in Cosmetic Preservation” Linda B. Sedlewicz, Country Manager – schülke inc. Abstract Nowhere are the market forces effecting raw materials felt more strongly than in the choice of preservatives. There are very few classic preservatives available to the cosmetic market and many of these have been the targets of NGOs and bad press. This has led formulators to consider alternative methods for maintaining the microbiological integrity of their products. This presentation will review the current frequency of use data for preservatives as reported to the FDA. The most frequently used traditional preservatives will be discussed with regard to their regulatory status and public opinion. Various non-traditional preservation methods will be reviewed. Finally, the effect of the “natural”/ “green”/ “sustainable” movement on the future of these various preservation methods will be considered. Bio A graduate of Rutgers University, New Brunswick, NJ, Linda began her career in the cosmetics industry thirty years ago. She has seven years of experience formulating a wide range cosmetic product types for the J.B. Williams Company and Van Dyk & Company. In 1987 Linda joined Sutton Laboratories/ISP. Over her eight-year tenure at Sutton/ISP, she was responsible for sales and marketing of the Sutton preservative line, promoting these products throughout the U.S. and Canada. In 1995, Linda became the first Manager, Marketing & Technical Support – Personal Care at Gattefossé Corporation. She took her current position with schülke in 1999. As Country Manager for schülke inc, she is responsible for the introduction and promotion of the schülke preservative product lines across the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. Linda is an active member of the PCPC Microbiology Committee. She won the first New York Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists award for “Best Paper Published in the Cosmetiscope” in 2003 for her article entitled “Preservatives Demystified – A Guide to Choosing the Correct Preservative for Your Product”. She also was awarded “Best Paper” presented before the Connecticut Chapter of the SCC for 2010 for her paper entitled “Current Trends in Cosmetic Preservation”. POSTER: Ethnic Hair Care Trends and Formulation Solutions” High heat treatments, hair breakage, dry hair, and dry/irritated scalp… These are all challenges that the ethnic consumer is facing. Glenn Corporation offers a variety of ingredients that will help you formulate end products that overcome these obstacles, and other common ethnic hair care challenges. Product solutions include: Quaternized materials that reduce heat damage Surfactants and systems that prevent drying and deliver actives and moisturizing agents Natural active systems that reduce irritation and flaking Sulfate-free surfactants Natural petrolatum replacements To help you meet not only the challenges, but the consumer demands relative to ethnic hair care, Glenn Corp. will be highlighting market trends and forecast data. J a n u a r y 1 0 t h C h a p t e r M e e t i n g : Next Meeting: January 10 Rockwood Tap House Please RSVP to Amy Fu by January 5th at [email protected] The Meeting is Free. Dinner is $35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members, $20 for Emeritus and Retired Members. There will be a $10 no show fee SCCoop is published 8 times per year for members of the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Newsletter editor is Cinda Carlson: [email protected] or Phone (773) 572-6448 Advertising rates are $400 annually for each 2 X 2 space. Advertising manager Gary Neudahl is your contact for ad placement and/or waiting list information: [email protected] Phone (708) 594-5058 Printing by Flash Printing, Inc. Franklin Park, IL (847) 288-9101 LOCAL SCC EVENTS Save the Date: 2012 MWSCC Dinner and Education Meetings January10 February 14 March 13 April 10 September 11 November 13 Additional Events Teamworks Social Night March 20 Teamworks 2012 March 21 January 2012 • Vol. XLIV No. 1 The Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists This Issue Elaine’s… News, Notes and More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Meeting Venue . . . . . . 3 Chapter News . . . . . 4,8 - 9 Teamworks . . . . . . . . . . 5 Feature Article. . . . . . 6 & 7 National News . . . . . . . . 10 Employment . . . . . . . . . .11 SCC OOP For more information on registration see page 3. Early Start at 4:30 pm CST

Transcript of Next Meeting: January 10 · To help you meet not only the challenges, but the consumer demands...

Page 1: Next Meeting: January 10 · To help you meet not only the challenges, but the consumer demands relative to ethnic hair care, Glenn Corp. will be highlighting market trends and forecast

MWSCC CHAPTER EDUCATIONAL DINNER MEETING

“Current Trends in Cosmetic Preservation” Linda B. Sedlewicz, Country Manager – schülke inc.

AbstractNowhere are the market forces effecting raw materials felt more strongly than in the choice ofpreservatives. There are very few classic preservatives available to the cosmetic market and many ofthese have been the targets of NGOs and bad press. This has led formulators to consider alternativemethods for maintaining the microbiological integrity of their products.

This presentation will review the current frequency of use data for preservatives as reported to theFDA. The most frequently used traditional preservatives will be discussed with regard to theirregulatory status and public opinion. Various non-traditional preservation methods will be reviewed.Finally, the effect of the “natural”/ “green”/ “sustainable” movement on the future of these variouspreservation methods will be considered.

BioA graduate of Rutgers University, New Brunswick, NJ, Linda began her career in the cosmeticsindustry thirty years ago. She has seven years of experience formulating a wide range cosmeticproduct types for the J.B. Williams Company and Van Dyk & Company. In 1987 Linda joined SuttonLaboratories/ISP. Over her eight-year tenure at Sutton/ISP, she was responsible for sales andmarketing of the Sutton preservative line, promoting these products throughout the U.S. and Canada.In 1995, Linda became the �rst Manager, Marketing & Technical Support – Personal Care atGattefossé Corporation. She took her current position with schülke in 1999. As Country Manager forschülke inc, she is responsible for the introduction and promotion of the schülke preservative productlines across the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico.

Linda is an active member of the PCPC Microbiology Committee. She won the �rst New York ChapterSociety of Cosmetic Chemists award for “Best Paper Published in the Cosmetiscope” in 2003 for herarticle entitled “Preservatives Demysti�ed – A Guide to Choosing the Correct Preservative for YourProduct”. She also was awarded “Best Paper” presented before the Connecticut Chapter of the SCCfor 2010 for her paper entitled “Current Trends in Cosmetic Preservation”.

POSTER: “Ethnic Hair Care Trends and Formulation Solutions”

High heat treatments, hair breakage, dry hair, and dry/irritated scalp… These are all challenges that the ethnic consumer is facing.

Glenn Corporation offers a variety of ingredients that will help you formulate end products that overcome these obstacles, and other common ethnic hair care challenges.

Product solutions include:• Quaternized materials that reduce heat damage• Surfactants and systems that prevent drying and deliver actives and moisturizing agents• Natural active systems that reduce irritation and �aking• Sulfate-free surfactants• Natural petrolatum replacements

To help you meet not only the challenges, but the consumer demands relative to ethnic hair care, Glenn Corp. will behighlighting market trends and forecast data.

January 10th Chapter Meeting:

Next Meeting: January 10Rockwood Tap House

Please RSVP to Amy Fu by January 5th [email protected] The Meeting is Free. Dinner is $35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members,$20 for Emeritus and Retired Members. There will be a $10 no show fee

SCCoop is published 8 times peryear for members of the MidwestChapter of the Society of CosmeticChemists.

Newsletter editor is Cinda Carlson:[email protected] orPhone (773) 572-6448

Advertising rates are $400 annuallyfor each 2 X 2 space. Advertisingmanager Gary Neudahl is yourcontact for ad placement and/orwaiting list information: [email protected] (708) 594-5058

Printing by Flash Printing, Inc. Franklin Park, IL (847) 288-9101

LOCAL SCC EVENTSSave the Date:

2012 MWSCC Dinnerand Education Meetings

January10February 14March 13April 10September 11November 13

Additional EventsTeamworks Social NightMarch 20

Teamworks 2012March 21

January 2012 • Vol. XLIV No. 1

The Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

This Issue

Elaine’s… News, Notes and

More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Meeting Venue . . . . . . 3

Chapter News . . . . . 4,8 -9

Teamworks . . . . . . . . . . 5

Feature Article. . . . . . 6 & 7

National News . . . . . . . .10

Employment . . . . . . . . . .11

S C C O O P

For more information on registration see page 3.

Early Start at 4:30 pm CST

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SCCMidwest Chapter2012 Board Members

ChairpersonElaine [email protected]

Chair - ElectTom Lehman [email protected]

SecretaryDusanka Colovic [email protected]

TreasurerMichael Frushour [email protected]

Area II DirectorsKevin [email protected]

Kelly [email protected]

House ChairLisa [email protected]

Program Co-ChairsDebbie ZartlerPeggy Dorrance Bennett [email protected]

Newsletter EditorCinda [email protected]

Advertising ManagerGary Neudahl(708) [email protected]

National SCC OfficesFor member address changes:www.scconline.org (212) 668-1500

SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 12

M WSCC

We will open the book. Its pages are blank. We are going to put words onthem ourselves. The book is called Opportunity and its �rst chapter is NewYear's Day. ~Edith Lovejoy Pierce

Welcome all to 2012! Let us take a moment to re�ect and say thank you toMelissa, the 2011 Executive Board of directors, host of dedicated volunteersand to each of you for your continue support and participation in the MidwestChapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemist. You all had a hand in making 2011such a successful year for the organization and its membership.

At the November 2011 meeting, Melissa passed the symbolic “Gavel” to mewith much pride and excitement knowing that she left her mark by introducingnew ideas and embracing technology that allowed for an innovative approachof connecting our members. The concept of “SKYPE’ meetings from duallocations was born, tested, and well received by the membership. Becauseof the overwhelming response, we will continue and improve this meetingformat in 2012. I am putting out a call for new volunteers for the newly formedAV committee.

Other highlight’s from the November meeting included “Speed Presenting”which is fabulous and fun exercise challenges your speed speaking skill andstresses presenting clear, concise and to the point presentations in fun,interesting and non-threatening way. If you missed this event, you reallymissed a real treat! We were all educated on many topics in a short span oftime, thoroughly entertained and left anticipating the next round of speedpresentations. We are taking volunteers if you are interested in having a littlefun and trying it! We would also like to thank our Michigan host, Amway. Weare working improving the equipment for improve visual and audio.

The “Toys for Tots” campaign was a successful again this year. Thank you foryour kindness and generosity, which was sincerely appreciated by the manychildren, that woke up to their special gift under the Christmas tree.

Congratulations to the committee and speakers that presented at the” 2011MWSCC Fall “Many Faces of Cosmetics Science” Technical Symposium,Cosmetic & Toiletries featured an insightful article in the November 2011issue.

Congratulations to our 2012 scholarship winners Malinda Reichert, LaurenGrabstanowicz, Lauren Brousil, Justin Caram, Katherine McLean and RyanTrevithick.

Re�ection time is over; the 2011 chapter of our book is complete. Now let usall look forward and beginning �lling up the pages of our next chapter of theMWSCC book. Please help me welcome the new Executive Board of Directorsfor 2012.

Chair: Elaine HarrisChair-Elect: Tom LehmanSecretary: Dusanka ColovicTreasurer-Elect: Michael MackTreasurer: Michael Frushour

Registration for the January 2012 Dinner and Education Meeting at theRockwood Tap House in Downers Grove is now open. We will be on our“early” schedule: Social Hour 4:30 pm, Speaker at 5:30 pm, and Dinner at 6:30 pm.

Mark your calendars subsequent monthly dinner and education meeting and“TEAMWORKS”, the Premier Industry Trade Show for the Personal CareIndustry in Mid-America, March 21, 2012 at the Donald E. StephensConvention Center Rosemont, IL (Chicago). For more information aboutTeamworks, contact IAMI toll free at (888) 411–4264, ore-mail: [email protected]

We look forward to seeing you all at the next meeting and subsequentupcoming events.

Thank you,

Elaine Harris

Feel free to email me at [email protected]. I want to get to know you andhear your ideas, suggests, feedback and concerns.

Elaine’s… News, Notes and More!

Providing Customized Personal Care Chemistry Solutions

Technical Support: 708.594.5058 Customer Service: 877.427.4255

[email protected] www.hallstar.com

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 1 3

Chapter Meeting Venue

January 10th MWSCC Chapter Meeting

M WSCC

Location:Rockwood Tap House3131 Finley RoadDowners Grove, IL 60515(630) 964-3131

Menu Soup: Minestrone Soup

Salad: Lettuce Wedge with Bacon and Blue Cheese

Main Entrée: Choice of 1: (servers will ask you when soup is served)

London Broil or Parmesan Crusted ChickenJulienne VegetablesVesuvio Potatoes

Dessert: Peppermint Ice Cream

A vegetarian alternative is available (PennePasta with Julienne Vegetables in Olive Oiland garlic sauce). Please notify Lisa Hilsonbefore the event at [email protected]

The Meeting is Free. Dinner is $35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members, $20 for Emeritus and Retired Members.There will be a $10 no show fee

Schedule:4:15 pm CST: Board Meeting 4:30 pm CST: Social Hour (Cash Bar) 5:30 pm CST: Speaker & Q&A 6:30 pm CST: Dinner

The Rockwood Tap House is a new casual-themed restaurant serving Downers Grove andsurrounding communities of Oak Brook, Westmont, Clarendon Hills, Hinsdale, Lisle,Woodridge, Naperville, and Chicago’s western suburbs.

Rockwood Tap House is tastefully designed with beautiful wood, natural cut stone, cozybooths and warm �replaces. Independently owned and operated, Rockwood Tap Housebelieves in cooking with only the freshest ingredients. We have a large selection of draft beer— thirty-two varieties to be exact — all served at an unbelievable frosty cold 32 degrees!Rockwood Tap House… exceeding your expectations with every bite! Quenching your thirstfor excellence with every sip!

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 1

Chapter News M WSCC

New MWSCC Executive Board Members

Left to right:: Mike Mack (Treasurer-elect), Michael Frushour (Treasurer), DusankaColovic (Secretary), Tom Lehman (Chair-elect), Elaine Harris (Chair)

Getting to Know Your New Chair-Elect

How long have you been involved with the SCC? Ijoined the SCC in 2006What companies have you worked for? Gilchrist &Soames, Mans�eld-KingWho is your current employer? Mans�eld-King,Vice President R&DAcademic record: “The” Purdue University, double

major in Genetic Biology and MicrobiologyWhy do you think SCC membership is important? We have such a vastcollection of experience and knowledge in this industry, and an overwhelmingdesire to do good. The SCC helps bring like-minded people together, andprovides a forum to exchange ideas and share experiences Additional professional memberships: American Chemical Society (ACS)Awards: Young Scientist Award, SCC. What is your favorite SCC moment (function, event, talk or other)? Talksabout innovation are always fun to listen to. Teamworks is such a wonderfulevent, and Social Night is always perfect to relax and enjoy a fun nightWhere have you lived? New York and throughout IndianaTell us about your hobbies or leisure activities: I enjoy traveling and mywork of course!If you could have a super-power what would it be? I’d probably beindestructible. What is your favorite vacation spot? New Zealand was pretty amazing;Safari in South Africa is a close secondWhat is your favorite restaurant? St. Elmo’s in Indianapolis is a pretty goodsteak houseWhat is your favorite board game? Clue

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 1 5

TeamworksM WSCC

2012 TEAMWORKS Tradeshow

The Premier Industry Trade Show for the Personal CareIndustry in Mid-America

March 21, 2012Education Seminar: 8:30 am - NoonTradeshow: Noon - 6 pm Donald E. Stephens Convention Center 5555 N. River Rd. Rosemont, IL 60018

Education, innovation and networking are key focal pointsduring this event. The half-day educational session willhighlight the latest material launches to give formulations anadded edge, and technology exchanges will occurthroughout the exhibition. Networking opportunities will alsoabound—grab a colleague during the buffet luncheon, sit

down together and debate product development strategies; or arrive a day early to network during the SocialNight with some of the great minds in the industry. Look for more details athttp://www.midwestscc.org/teamworks/#about

ATTENDEE REGISTRATION Attendance for Teamworks on March 21st is FREE! EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM Details Coming Soon!TEAMWORKS SOCIAL NIGHT Social Night March 20, 2012 Details Coming Soon!

EXHIBITOR INFORMATION RESERVE YOUR EXHIBIT SPACE NOW!The cost of registration after December 1, 2011 is $995.00.http://www.midwestscc.org/teamworks/exhibitors/

SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES NOW AVAILABLE

Teamworks 2012 is pleased to announce sponsorship opportunities.Donate today online by visiting the http://www.midwestscc.org/teamworks/exhibitors/

For more information about Teamworks, contact IAMI toll free at (888) 411–4264, or e-mail:[email protected].

www.silab.fr

[email protected]

Independent French Company, SILAB creates and manufactures eco-friendly, efficiency-proved and easy to formulate active ingredients.

You need more information about our active ingredients? Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.email: [email protected]: 732.335.1030

875 Creel StreetMelbourne, FL 32935 USA

Tel. 1-321.254.3444Fax 1-321.242.9507

[email protected]

www.biochemica.com

Fitz Chem Corporation Ingredients for the

Personal Care Industry!

BASF Care Chemicals Bases, biocides, cationic conditioners, emollients, emulsifiers, pearl concentrates & waxes, proteins,

polymers, quaternary compounds, solubilizers, surfactants, thickeners, UV absorbers & stabilizers & vitamins

Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients Cellulosic thickeners, guar conditioners, carbomer,

polymers & phosphates

BLUESTAR Silicones Amodimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone,

Simethicone, silicone blends

Lincoln Fine Ingredients Conventional and Natural Preservatives

www.fitzchem.com 630-467-8383

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 16

Feature Article

What is Rheology (and Why Should I Care?) by Mike Starch

Formulators who work in our industry have no doubt come across the term rheology, usually in connection with a class ofingredients called rheology modi�ers. So what is rheology and why is it important to formulators? Rheology is the branch ofscience that is concerned with the deformation and �ow of matter. And the term rheology is also used to refer to a descriptionof the �ow behavior of materials that are subjected to different kind of forces. So rheology pertains to a number of importantcharacteristics of formulations, including how the formulation dispenses (i.e. �ows out of a package), how it spreads on theskin, and its stability. Rheology modi�ers are ingredients that affect how a formulation �ows when subjected to shear forces.In most cases, rheology modi�er is just a fancy term for thickener. But different types of thickeners affect formulation rheologyin different ways and I believe it is important to understand these differences.

Let’s take one of the most common rheology modi�ers used in our industry: carbomer. Carbomer is a crosslinked polymer ofacrylic acid. When it is dispersed in water and neutralized, it provides tremendous thickening effect even at concentrations of0.3% or less. But it is not just the magnitude of the thickening effect that makes carbomer such a useful thickener. It therheological behavior called shear thinning that makes carbomer (and many other thickeners based on acrylates) such usefulingredients. When formulations that contain carbomer are subjected to shear forces such as pumping, pushing it through anarrow ori�ce, or rubbing it onto the skin, the viscosity drops dramatically. Conversely, when the shear force is removed, thecarbomer thickens again. In fact when dispersions of carbomer gel in water are at rest, the viscosity is essentially in�nite. Thisis very useful for stabilizing a suspension or emulsion because a very high viscosity will keep suspended particles from sinking,or the oil droplets in the emulsion from �oating upward. When an emulsion or suspension is standing on the shelf, the onlyshear force is from the pull from gravity (a small force), so carbomer in the formulation provides a very high viscosity and thishelps keep the particles or droplets from moving. If the particles or droplets can’t move, formulation stability will be improvedgreatly because changes related to instability such as creaming or coalescence are suppressed.

Cellulose derivatives, another common type of thickener, provide a different rheological effect. Thickeners such ashydroxyethylcellulose are less ef�cient for thickening and they don’t exhibit much shear thinning, but they provide a verysmooth texture and are good for pourable formulations like shampoos. Does anybody else remember those old commercialsfor Prell shampoo where a pearl is dropped in and we see the pearl slowly sinking down through the product? I don’t know ifPrell at that time contained a cellulose derivative, but that is the kind of rheology they provide. The force of gravity is suf�cientto overcome the resistance to �ow so the pearl sinks. The sinking pearl also demonstrates that cellulose derivatives are notparticularly good for stabilizing suspensions or emulsions because they do not provide high viscosity when the formulation is atrest. The reason is that cellulose derivatives in water are like cooked spaghetti noodles; they slide past each other with aboutthe same resistance no matter how fast they are moving. In contrast, carbomer in water exists as tiny gel particles that swellwhen the pH is raised. Raising the pH by adding base neutralizes acid groups on the carbomer polymer, causing the carbomergel particle to swell dramatically. These soft particles interact with each other when the mixture is not moving, but can slidepast each other once the dispersion starts to move and so the viscosity drops due to shear thinning. The rheologicalproperties of soft gel particles dispersed in a solvent arise for non-aqueous systems as well. One example is crosslinkedsilicone gels what swell in low molecular-weight silicone solvents (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane). These silicone gel dispersionsbehave very much like neutralized carbomer gels dispersed in water. They are very thick when the dispersion is at rest butexhibit shear-thinning as they begin to �ow. Silicone gel particles are used in color cosmetics because of their pleasant skinfeel and because they thicken the oil phase and help suspend the pigments in the formulation.

Another type of rheology modi�er that provides a strong shear thinning effect is natural clay (e.g. hectorite). Clay particles arenot soluble in water so they are not generally suitable for clear formulations. Clay particles in aqueous dispersions interactstrongly by electrostatic forces between clays particles when the dispersion is at rest. A small amount of shear forceovercomes the electrostatic forces and the viscosity drops. Clay suspensions will thicken again if allowed to stand, but it takeslonger to reach maximum viscosity compared to carbomer. The relatively slow recovery of viscosity for clay dispersions is dueto the fact that the charged areas of the clay particles must orient themselves to form a loose bond with areas of oppositecharge on other clay particles. This orientation process takes time so the viscosity recovery takes place in minutes versus asmall fraction of a second for carbomer dispersions. Another type of natural thicker is xanthan gum, a polysaccharide made bybacterial fermentation. Xanthan gum is a long stringy polymer, so it provides a thickening effect similar to cellulose derivatives.

When a formulation exhibits shear thinning behavior this means that the viscosity will change under different measurement

M WSCC

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 1 7

Feature Article

conditions. A simple rotational viscometer like a Brook�eld is suitable for measuring a variety of formulations, but you need tobe aware of the shear thinning effect. A Brook�eld viscometer will give different viscosities for shear thinning formulations whenyou change the spindle or the speed. That is because changes in the shear forces applied by the viscometer affect theviscosity. This is particularly important if you are trying to compare two different batches or the results from differentlaboratories. For these comparisons to be meaningful, the speed and spindle must be the same. If you must change somethingto keep the viscometer reading on scale, changing the spindle usually has less effect on the shear force than changing speeds

The rheology of a formulation not only affects its stability, but also how it is perceived by the consumer. For example,consumers expect a hand lotion to be thick and creamy in consistency. One reason that a lotion needs to be thick is the factthat no consumer wants to be in a race to apply the lotion before it runs off of their hand and onto the �oor. But anotherimportant factor is that the rheological properties of the lotion help set consumer expectations about how well it will work. Thickskin care formulations are perceived as being “richer” and more ef�cacious than thin, runny formulations. In fact, consumersexpect a skin cream to be signi�cantly thicker than a lotion because creams have a higher expectation of ef�cacy against dryskin. On the other hand, consumers want a product that is easy to spread and that calls for a formulation that is shear thinning.As I mentioned before, crosslinked acrylate thickeners such as carbomer provide just this type of rheology. A formulation that isthickened with carbomer will be quite thick when is at rest sitting in the palm of your hand, but it very rapidly thins out whensubjected to the high shear forces of rubbing it onto the skin. In fact, the formulator needs to be aware that if the formulation istoo shear-thinning, it will feel watery when rubbed into the skin. The small amount of salt which is usually present on the skinalso contributes to the shear-thinning effect because salt reduces the thickening power of carbomer. So it is necessary tomanipulate other formulation components (i.e. the emollient package) that contribute to a rich skin feel of the lotion as it isapplied.

Most lotions in the U.S. market are oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions, however some products such as the original Eucerin® formulafrom Beiersdorf are water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions. Water-in-oil emulsions have a heavier, richer feel when applied to the skin.This is partly because water-in-oil lotions usually contain a higher concentration of emollients (oils), but the rheology of water-in-oil emulsions also contributes to the richer feel. The rheology of these formulations is largely controlled by the ratio of water tooil in the formulation and the presence of semi-solid emollients such as lanolin and waxes in the oil phase of the emulsion. Thistype of emulsion is much less shear-thinning than an oil-in-water emulsion thickened with carbomer and therefore is somewhatmore dif�cult to spread onto the skin. This contributes to the perception that such emulsions are richer and more ef�cacious.Many consumers �nd the skin feel of water-in-oil emulsions too “heavy”. This can be partially overcome by using very light,volatile oils such as cyclomethicone (and a polymeric silicone emulsi�er to stabilize the emulsion), but the rheology of suchemulsions will never be the same as that of a traditional oil-in-water emulsion thickened with carbomer.

Typical shampoo (and body wash) formulations exhibit very little shear-thinning behavior. One reason is that they usually arethickened with a cellulose derivative such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, which does not give a shear-thinning effect. Butlike carbomer in a lotion formulation, water-soluble cellulosic thickeners contribute to the esthetics and perception of ef�cacy ofshampoos and body washes. Cellulosic thickeners provide the thick consistency that consumers associate with a high qualityformulation as well as the practical bene�t keeping the shampoo from running out of the hand while it is being transferred to thehair. But cellulosic thickeners are not particularly effective for stabilizing suspended conditioning agents (e.g. siliconeconditioning agents) in shampoos because they do not provide the high resting viscosity. Carbomer (and many other acrylatethickeners) are not used in these kinds of formulations because the electrolytes associated with the shampoo surfactantsdramatically reduce thickening performance. It would be possible to achieve a very high formulation viscosity with cellulosicthickeners by increasing the use concentration, but such formulations would be hard to dispense and distribute through the hair,again because cellulosics are not shear-thinning; they maintain their thickening effect even under high shear.

I hope this column has piqued your interest in the subject of rheology. If you would like to read further, I recommend a bookcalled “Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries” that was edited by Denis Laba and published as part of MarcelDekker’s Cosmetic Science and Technology series.

Mike Starch has worked in the personal care industry for over 33 years on both the raw material and manufacturing sides of thebusiness. He is currently working as a consultant to the industry and can be contacted at [email protected].

M WSCC

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 18

Chapter News M WSCC

Congratulations to Our 2011 MWSCC Scholarship Winners!

TOYS for TOTS

I dropped off the toys collected at the November meeting at Gordon BierschRestaurant in Bolingbrook, IL. Gordon Biersch is an authorized location.

Donations from the Midwest chapter of the SCC over�owed the collection box.

The manager of the restaurant, head chef and their customers were verysurprised to see me coming with my Red Santa bag �lled to the brim with toys.They responded by saying" that the toys were such kind and thoughtful gift.

Their reactions really pulled on my heart string.

Regards, Elaine

SCC Continuing EducationFor additional information visit www.scconline.org

January 25 Antiperspirant and Deodorant Technology • Instructed by Philip KlepakFebruary 15 cGMP’s for Cosmetics • Instructed by Joseph Albanese and Susan FreijeFebruary 23 Imaging Technologies and Image Analysis Techniques for Personal Care

Instructed by Roger McMullenMarch 6 Silicone Chemistry • Instructed by Tony O’LenickMarch 21 Practical Basics and Theory in Emulsion Technology • Instructed by John CarsonApril 3 Hair Conditioners and Hair Treatments • Instructed by Colleen RocafortApril 3 Basic Skin Care for the Cosmetic Chemist • Instructed by Randy WickettApril 4 Advanced Skin Care • Instructed by Randy WickettMay 30 Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry • Instructed by Perry RomanowskiMay 30 Scale Up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations • Instructed by David YackoJune 14-15 Advanced Emulsions • Instructed by Robert LochheadJuly 19 Hair Color • Instructed by Keith Brown

Lauren MacurBrousil,

DePaul University,Adviser: Roger D.

Sommer

Justin Caram,University of

Chicago,Advisor: Greg Engel

Katherine McLean, Purdue University,Advisor: Dr. Kara

Weatherman

Malinda Reichert, Iowa StateUniversity,

Advisor: Dr. JavierVela

Ryan Trevithick,Purdue University,Adviser: T. Patrick

George

LaurenGrabstanowicz,Northern Illinois

University, Advisor: Dr. Tao Xu

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 1 9

Chapter NewsM WSCC

American Chemical Society’s Chemistry Day

American Chemical Society’s Chemistry Day was held at Columbia College this year. Thevolunteers from the Midwest SCC this yearwere Chris Daraska, Cinda Carlson, ToniFitzpatrick, Melissa Tolla, and Gene Frank.

We had the students prepare a skin lotion,make a bath salt or glitter gel and we alsogave away temporary tattoos.

For the first time, Melissa Tolla also gavedemonstrations to the students on how tomake soap.

This year, they had lots of scouts earning theirChemistry Badge and other students fromarea schools that wanted to learn more aboutchemistry.

Thank you so much to our volunteers!

See you next year.

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 110

National News M WSCC

SCC PRESIDENT’S REPORT 2011

It has been my privilege to serve as your SCC president during this challenging year and I want to thank youall for your support. The year started on a very sad note with the passing of our long-time Executive DirectorTerry Cesario. All who knew Terry knew her deep commitment to our society and her many years of tirelesseffort on behalf of the SCC. She was far more than just an employee, and we have lost a key member of ourSCC family. We will be honoring Terry with a special ceremony at this year's awards luncheon at the NationalMeeting and this event will be renamed the Theresa Cesario SCC Awards Luncheon in her honor. I hope all ofyou who can make it will be there to help us honor Terry.

As most of you know Bill Cowen was promoted to the position of Executive Director and Doreen Scelso waspromoted to Executive Assistant. Annmarie Lynch was hired as publications coordinator. These individualshave all "stepped up to the plate" along with Helen McCarren to ensure the continued smooth operation of theSCC of�ce. Be sure to stop by and congratulate Bill and Doreen on their new positions and welcomeAnnmarie to the SCC family when you attend the Annual Meeting in December.

A key to the continued success of the SCC is the vibrant activity of our 18 chapters. Chapters around thecountry continue to be successful in attracting members to events that provide both up-to-date information onthe latest technologies and important networking opportunities. Another chapter centered activity that againgenerated great interest in the spirit of friendly competition was the 2010 membership retention contest. Thecontest was especially spirited last year with 7 chapter achieving more than 90% retention and Ohio Valleyedging out St. Louis 97% to 95% to win �rst place. In addition 14 of our 18 chapters were at 85% or higher, aremarkable record in these challenging economic times. Keep up the good work for next year!

Continuing education for our members remains a key function of the SCC. Again this year a wide variety ofsuccessful courses were offered either with in New Jersey, in association with National Meetings or as freechapter courses. The free chapter courses are an important service for our chapters helping them to providetheir members with valuable training.

The COSA committee put together an outstanding technical program for the Annual Scienti�c Seminar, hostedthis year by Area III at the Bellagio Hotel and Resort in Las Vegas. Papers covered a wide range of subjectsincluding but not limited to mechanical properties of skin and hair, applications of genomic research incosmetic science and hair care polymers, giving our members the opportunity to learn about the latesttechnology in their �elds. The student poster session included 12 posters from 6 different schools and waswell attended. It is great to see participation from so many different schools and I hope this trend will continue.The participation of students from so many schools and the excellent quality of their posters bodes well for thefuture of our Society.

The Annual Scienti�c Meeting and Technology Showcase in December will be my last as a national of�cer andI am thrilled to see the excellent program that COSA and has put together. The Frontiers of Science Lecturewill be given by Dr. Robert Langer a true pioneer in the �eld of biomaterials. The technical program that COSAhas produced for the meeting is outstanding and I am sure this will again be a great event to cap off our year.

In closing I want to express my heartfelt thanks to all the many volunteers at every level in the SCC from thoseworking in chapters either as of�cers or the many other roles required for chapter success to our nationalboard members and of�cers. Without your efforts we could not function as a society. I would also like toencourage those of you who have never volunteered to help the SCC to consider doing so. I am sure you will�nd it a rewarding experience to work with the many �ne people who make up the membership of the Societyof Cosmetic Chemists.

Randy WickettSCC National President 2011

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SCCoop January 2012 • Vol XLIV • No. 1 11

Employment OpportunitiesM WSCC

Looking for a new position?

Multiple Employment Opportunities can be found onlineat www.Midwestscc.org/careers/

Check it out today!

Do you have any employment opportunities in your company? Don’t forget to post them in the Midwest SCC Chapter’s newsletter and website. It iseasy, there is no fee, and all of our chapter members throughout the industry can viewthem. Contact [email protected] to submit your listing.

Quality Lab Analyst

VVF Illinois Services, LLC, a leading manufacturer of soaps,oleochemicals, antiperspirant deodorant, and personalproducts, has an opening for a Quality Lab Analyst at itsMontgomery, Illinois facility.

This position will provide analytical support for theOperations and Quality departments.

Education and experience:B.S. Chemistry or related �eld preferredMath skillsComputer literate2 – 5 years laboratory experience preferred

Please apply by faxing your resume to (630) 966-7339, oremail to Career.au@vv�lc.com, or apply in person at theIllinois Department of Employment Security, 2 SmoketreePlaza, North Aurora, IL 60542.

For more information seehttp://www.midwestscc.org/careers/

Sr. Chemist II

Zotos International, Inc., a subsidiary of Shiseido, Inc. and aleader in the professional hair care industry, seeks Sr.Chemist II to work in our corporate headquarters in Darien,CT. Target start date 1/04/2012.

Primary responsibility: Formulate quality cosmetic hair careproducts with minimal supervision.

Including: Research to help develop innovative products. Conduct laboratoryef�cacy, stability and salon testing. Write reports, collaborate on and coordinate Claims, Analytical,Microbiological and Safety Testing as required. Participate in pilot and �rst production batches at the manufacturingfacility. Able to logically troubleshoot issues, and effectively communicate results.

Email resume to: [email protected]

For more information seehttp://www.midwestscc.org/careers/

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Page 12: Next Meeting: January 10 · To help you meet not only the challenges, but the consumer demands relative to ethnic hair care, Glenn Corp. will be highlighting market trends and forecast

Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

S C C O O P

Cinda Carlson, Newsletter EditorMidwest SCC Chapter4740 N. Cumberland Ave. #364Chicago, IL 60656

INNOVATION.OUR IDEA OF NATURAL BEAUTY.

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