New Zealand (Aotearoa) - Lonely PlanetNew Zealand (Aotearoa) Charles Rawlings-Way Brett Atkinson,...

New Zealand(Aotearoa)

Charles Rawlings-Way Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Peter Dragicevich,

Samantha Forge, Anita Isalska, Sofia Levin

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Dunedin& Otago(p537)

The West Coast(p446)

WellingtonRegion(p366)

Rotorua &the Bay of Plenty(p291)

Fiordland &Southland

(p608)

Marlborough& Nelson

(p402)

Christchurch& Canterbury(p479)

The East Coast(p332)

Bay of Islands& Northland

(p139)

AucklandRegion

(p76)

Taupo & theRuapehu Region(p264)

Taranaki &Whanganui

(p231)

Waikato &Coromandel

Peninsula(p181)

Queenstown& Wanaka

(p572)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to New Zealand . . .6New Zealand Map . . . . . . . .8New Zealand’s Top 20 . . .10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22First Time New Zealand . . .24What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 26If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Month by Month . . . . . . . .31Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Getting Around New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . 40Hiking in New Zealand . . .42Skiing & Snowboarding . . .52Extreme New Zealand . . .57Eat & Drink Like a Local . . .64Travel with Children . . . . 69Regions at a Glance . . . . . 71

AUCKLAND REGION . . . . . . . . . . . 76Auckland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Hauraki Gulf Islands . . .115Rangitoto & Motutapu Islands . . . . . . . 116Motuihe Island . . . . . . . . . 116Waiheke Island . . . . . . . . . .117Rotoroa Island . . . . . . . . . 122Tiritiri Matangi Island . . . 123Motuora Island . . . . . . . . . 123Kawau Island . . . . . . . . . . . 123Great Barrier Island . . . . . 124West Auckland . . . . . . . 128Titirangi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

Karekare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Piha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Te Henga (Bethells Beach) . . . . . . . 130Kumeu & Around . . . . . . . 131Muriwai Beach . . . . . . . . . 132Helensville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132North Auckland . . . . . . . 132Long Bay Regional Park . . . . . . . . . . 132Shakespear Regional Park . . . . . . . . . . 133Orewa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Waiwera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Puhoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

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Contents

Mahurangi & Scandrett Regional Parks . . . . . . . . . 135Warkworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Matakana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Leigh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Pakiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138

BAY OF ISLANDS & NORTHLAND . . . . 139Whangarei District . . . . 142Mangawhai . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Waipu & Bream Bay . . . . . 144Whangarei . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Whangarei Heads . . . . . . . 150Tutukaka Coast & the Poor Knights Islands . . . . 151Bay of Islands . . . . . . . . 152Russell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Paihia, Waitangi & Haruru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Urupukapuka Island . . . . . 162Kerikeri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Kawakawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165The Far North . . . . . . . . 166Matauri & Tauranga Bays . . . . . . . . . 167Whangaroa Harbour . . . . 167Doubtless Bay . . . . . . . . . . 168Karikari Peninsula . . . . . . 170Cape Reinga & Ninety Mile Beach . . . . . . 170Kaitaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Ahipara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Hokianga . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Kohukohu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Horeke & Around . . . . . . . 175Rawene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Opononi & Omapere . . . . 176Waiotemarama & Waimamaku . . . . . . . . . . 177Kauri Coast . . . . . . . . . . .177Waipoua Forest . . . . . . . . . 177Trounson Kauri Park . . . . 178

Kai Iwi Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . 178Baylys Beach . . . . . . . . . . 178Dargaville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Matakohe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180

WAIKATO & THE COROMANDEL PENINSULA . . . . . . . .181Waikato . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Raglan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190South of Raglan . . . . . . . . 194Te Awamutu . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Matamata . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Te Aroha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199King Country . . . . . . . . . 200Kawhia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Otorohanga . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Waitomo Caves . . . . . . . . . 202South from Waitomo to Taranaki . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Te Kuiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Pio Pio, Awakino & Mokau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Taumarunui . . . . . . . . . . . .209Owhango . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Coromandel Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Miranda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Thames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Coastal Route from Thames to Coromandel Town . . . . . . 215Coromandel Town . . . . . . 215Far North Coromandel . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Coromandel Town to Whitianga . . . . . . . . . . . 219Whitianga . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Coroglen & Whenuakite . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Hahei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Hot Water Beach . . . . . . . 224Tairua & Pauanui . . . . . . . 225Whangamata . . . . . . . . . . . 226Waihi & Waihi Beach . . . . 228Paeroa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230

TARANAKI & WHANGANUI . . . . . . 231New Plymouth . . . . . . . . . 234Around New Plymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Mt Taranaki & Around . . .240Surf Highway 45 . . . . . . . . 244Whanganui . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Whanganui National Park . . . . . . . . . . 253Palmerston North . . . . . . 259Around Palmerston North . . . . . . 263

TAUPO & THE RUAPEHU REGION . . . . . . . . . . 264Lake Taupo Region . . . . 266Taupo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Turangi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Ruapehu Region . . . . . . 279Tongariro National Park . . . . . . . . . . 279Whakapapa Village . . . . . .284National Park Village . . . . 285Ohakune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Waiouru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290

ROTORUA & THE BAY OF PLENTY . . . 291Rotorua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Rotorua Lakes . . . . . . . . 307Bay of Plenty . . . . . . . . . 312Tauranga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Mt Maunganui . . . . . . . . . . 317Papamoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321

Katikati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Whakatane . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Ohope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Opotiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330

THE EAST COAST . . .332East Cape . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Pacific Coast Hwy . . . . . . 333Gisborne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338South of Gisborne . . . . . . 345Te Urewera . . . . . . . . . . . . .346Hawke’s Bay . . . . . . . . . 348Wairoa & Around . . . . . . .348Napier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Hastings & Around . . . . . . 358Cape Kidnappers . . . . . . .364Central Hawke’s Bay . . . .364Kaweka & Ruahine Ranges . . . . . . . . 365

WELLINGTON REGION . . . . . . . . . . 366Wellington . . . . . . . . . . . 368Kapiti Coast . . . . . . . . . . 392Paekakariki . . . . . . . . . . . . 393Paraparaumu . . . . . . . . . .394Waikanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395The Wairarapa . . . . . . . . 395

Martinborough . . . . . . . . .396Greytown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398Masterton & Around . . . .400

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON . . . . . . . . 402Marlborough Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . .404Picton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .404Marlborough Sounds . . . .408Queen Charlotte Track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Kenepuru & Pelorus Sounds . . . . . . . . 412Blenheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413Kaikoura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418Nelson Region . . . . . . . . 424Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Ruby Coast & Moutere Hills . . . . . . . . . . .430Motueka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431Kaiteriteri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Marahau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .434Abel Tasman National Park . . . . . . . . . . 435Golden Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .439Kahurangi National Park . . . . . . . . . .443Nelson Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . . .444

THE WEST COAST . . .446Buller Region . . . . . . . . . 448Murchison & Buller Gorge . . . . . . . . . . .448Reefton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449Westport & Around . . . . .450Karamea & Around . . . . . 453The Great Coast Road . . . . . . . . . . 455Charleston & Around . . . . 455Punakaiki & Paparoa National Park . . . . . . . . . . 456Barrytown & Around . . . . 457Greymouth Region . . . . 458Greymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 458Blackball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461Lake Brunner . . . . . . . . . . 461Kumara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462Westland . . . . . . . . . . . . 462Hokitika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .466Hari Hari . . . . . . . . . . . . . .466Whataroa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467Okarito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467Westland Tai Poutini National Park . . . . . . . . 468Franz Josef Glacier . . . . . .468Fox Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473Haast Region . . . . . . . . . 476

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Contents

Haast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476Jackson Bay & Around . . .478

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY . . . 479Christchurch . . . . . . . . . 482Around Christchurch . . . . . . . . . 501Lyttelton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501Banks Peninsula . . . . . . . .502North Canterbury . . . . . 508Lewis Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . .509Hanmer Springs . . . . . . . .509Waipara Valley . . . . . . . . . . 512Central Canterbury . . . 513Selwyn District . . . . . . . . . 514Arthur’s Pass . . . . . . . . . . 514Methven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516Mt Somers . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518South Canterbury . . . . . 518Timaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519Inland & Mackenzie Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park . . . . . . . . . . 531

DUNEDIN & OTAGO . . . . . . . . . 537Waitaki District . . . . . . . 539Omarama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Waitaki Valley . . . . . . . . . .540Oamaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541Moeraki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549Dunedin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549Around Dunedin . . . . . . 561Port Chalmers . . . . . . . . . . 561Otago Peninsula . . . . . . . . 561Central Otago . . . . . . . . 563Middlemarch . . . . . . . . . . .564Ranfurly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .564Naseby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565

Lauder, Omakau & Ophir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .566Alexandra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567Clyde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569Cromwell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570

QUEENSTOWN & WANAKA . . . . . . . 572Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . 574Around Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . 590Glenorchy . . . . . . . . . . . . .590Arrowtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595Wanaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 599Around Wanaka . . . . . . . 605Cardrona . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605Lake Hawea . . . . . . . . . . . .606Makarora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 607

FIORDLAND & SOUTHLAND . . . . . . 608Fiordland . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Te Anau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Milford Hwy . . . . . . . . . . . . 617Milford Sound . . . . . . . . . . 619Manapouri . . . . . . . . . . . . .620Doubtful Sound . . . . . . . . 621Central Southland . . . . 622Tuatapere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622Te Waewae & Colac Bays . . . . . . . . . . . . . 623Riverton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 624Invercargill . . . . . . . . . . . . . 624Bluff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 627The Catlins . . . . . . . . . . 628Curio Bay & Around . . . . .629Papatowai & Around . . . .630Owaka & Around . . . . . . . . 631Kaka Point & Around . . . . 632Stewart Island (Rakiura) . . . . . . . . . . . . 633

New Zealand Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 640

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 642

Environment . . . . . . . . . 652

Māori Culture . . . . . . . . 658

Arts & Music . . . . . . . . . 666

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 672

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 683

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 692

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 702

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SPECIAL FEATURESHiking in New Zealand . . .42

Skiing & Snowboarding . . . . . . . . . 52

Extreme New Zealand . . .57

Environment . . . . . . . . . 652

Māori Culture . . . . . . . . 658

Itineraries

AUCKLAND

Rotorua

Taupo

Wellington

Christchurch

#•Bay of Islands

#÷TongariroNational Park

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North & South

From the top of the north to halfway down the south, here’s a quick-fire taste of New Zealand’s best.

Kick things off in Auckland: it’s NZ’s biggest city, with awesome restaurants and bars, galleries and boutiques, beaches and bays. Not an urbanite? Hoof it a few hours north to the salt-licked Bay of Islands for a couple of days of R&R.

Set your bearings southwards to Rotorua, a unique geothermal hotspot: geysers, mud pools, volcanic vents and Māori culture make for an experience that fires all the senses. Further south, invigorating Taupo has the ragged craters and Emerald Lakes of Ton-gariro National Park nearby. Get into some tramping, mountain biking or skydiving, then boot it down to Wellington, a hip little city with an irrepressible arts scene.

Across Cook Strait, see what all the fuss is about in the world-famous Marlborough Wine Region. If you’re not a wine fan, the hypnotically hushed inlets, ranges and wa-terways of the Marlborough Sounds are nearby. Swinging further south, cruise into Christchurch to enjoy southern hospitality in a city of rapid reinvention.

2 WEEKS

35©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Classy cities, geothermal eruptions, fantastic wine, Māori culture, glaciers, extreme ac-tivities, isolated beaches and forests: just a few of our favourite NZ things.

Aka the ‘City of Sails’, Auckland is a South Pacific melting pot. Spend a few days shopping, eating and drinking: this is NZ at its most cosmopolitan. Make sure you get out onto the harbour on a ferry or a yacht, and find a day to explore the beaches and wineries on Waiheke Island. Truck north to the Bay of Islands for a dose of aquatic adventure (dolphins, sailing, sunning yourself on deck), then scoot back southeast to check out the forests and holiday beaches on the Coromandel Peninsula. Further south in Rotorua, get a nose full of eggy gas, confront a 10m geyser, giggle at volcanic mud bubbles and experience a Māori cultural performance.

Meander down to Napier on the East Coast, NZ’s attractive art-deco city. While you’re here, don’t miss the bottled offerings of the Hawke’s Bay Wine Country (…ohh, the chardonnay). Down in Wellington, the coffee’s hot, the beer’s cold and wind from the politicians generates its own low-pressure system. This is NZ’s arts capital: catch a live band, buskers, a gallery opening or some theatre.

Swan over to the South Island for a couple of weeks to experience the best the south has to offer. Start with a tour through the sauvignon blanc heartland of the Marlbor-ough Wine Region, then chill for a few days between the mountains and the whales offshore in laid-back Kaikoura. Next stop is the southern capital Christchurch, swiftly rebuilding after the earthquakes. Follow the coast road south to the wildlife-rich Otago Peninsula, jutting abstractly away from the Victorian facades of Scottish-flavoured and student-filled Dunedin. Catch some live music while you’re in town.

Head inland via SH8 to bungy- and ski-obsessed Queenstown. Don’t miss a detour over to Fiordland for a jaw-dropping road trip and boat cruise around Milford Sound, before returning to Queenstown for your flight back to Auckland.

4 WEEKS

#•Bay of Islands

AUCKLAND

Rotorua

WELLINGTON

Kaikoura

Christchurch

Queenstown

Dunedin

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#•Hawke's BayWine Country

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Three-quarters of New Zealanders live on the North Island – time to find out why!

Begin in Auckland, NZ’s biggest city. Eat streets abound: try Ponsonby Rd in Ponsonby, K Rd in Newton and New North Rd in Kingsland. Hike up One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie) to burn off resultant calo-ries, and don’t miss the Auckland Art Gal-lery and Auckland Museum.

Venture south through geothermal Rotorua – home to some truly amaz-ing volcanic sights – then cruise over to the sunny East Coast. By the seaside and encircled by the chardonnay vines of Hawke’s Bay Wine Country, art-deco Napier is a hit with architecture buffs. Heading south, follow SH2 into the sheepy/winey region of Wairarapa, before driv-ing over the Rimutaka Range into hip, art-obsessed Wellington.

Looping back northwest to Auckland, pick and choose your pit stops: the New Zealand Rugby Museum in Palmerston North, some crafty glass in Whanganui or the epic Mt Taranaki, rising like Olympus behind New Plymouth. Go un-derground at Waitomo Caves or surf the point breaks near Raglan.

2 WEEKS

Waitomo Caves

AUCKLAND

Raglan

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Rotorua

Napier

Whanganui

WELLINGTON

EastCoast

Hawke's BayWine Country

Wairarapa

Palmerston North

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Northern Exposure

Is there another 1.4-million-strong city with access to two oceans and vibrant Poly-nesian culture? Immerse yourself in city and seaside, then swing north and south of Auckland to majestic forests and caves.

Allow at least three days in Auckland for its stellar bars, restaurants, museums and beaches. Admire Māori and South Pacific Islander exhibits at Auckland Museum, then wander across to K Rd for lunch. Visit Auck-land Art Gallery and the iconic Sky Tower, then Ponsonby for dinner and drinks.

Ferry over to Rangitoto Island’s tramping trails, then chug into Devonport for a meal. Admire tall timber in Wait-akere Ranges Regional Park and wild surf at Karekare and Piha, then hit the Britomart restaurants. Breakfast in Mt Eden, climb Maungawhau, then ferry-hop to Waiheke Island for wineries and beaches.

For your final few days, take your pick of activities beyond the big smoke. Driv-ing a northerly loop out of Auckland takes you snorkelling at Goat Island Marine Reserve, sailing the Bay of Islands, ocean gazing at Cape Reinga and ogling kauri trees at Waipoua Forest. Leave a couple of days to delve south to Waitomo Caves, surf at Raglan or beach yourself at Whitianga.

10 DAYS

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Auckland Encounter

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We know, a whole bunch of you are here for one thing only: South Island snow!

Fly into Christchurch and spend a day acclimatising at lively bars and restaurants. Intermediate skier or better? Your next stop is Mt Hutt for 365 skiable hectares. As you push south, detour to admire views of snowy Aoraki/Mt Cook before continuing to Queenstown, offering world-class skiing, great restaurants and a kickin’ nocturnal scene. Coronet Peak is the area’s oldest ski field, with excellent skiing for all levels (great for snowboarders, too). The visually remark-able Remarkables are more family friendly.

Need a break from snow? Drive around Lake Wakatipu to gorgeous Glenorchy; or get lost in the wineries of Gibbston Valley. Alternatively, Queenstown’s extreme activi-ties are still on offer in winter: bungy jump-ing, jetboating, mountain biking and more.

Get back on the slopes in Wanaka (Queenstown’s low-key little brother). Near-by ski fields include Treble Cone, Cardrona and Snow Farm New Zealand, NZ’s only commercial Nordic (cross-country) ski area.

From Wanaka, take an overnight trip to the West Coast to helihike or ice climb Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier. Backtrack to Queenstown for your next flight.

10 DAYS

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Winter Wanderer

Loop around the best of the South Island.

Wing into Christchurch to find a vibrant city rebuilding post-earthquakes. Grab a cof-fee and check out the Canterbury Museum.

City saturated? Visit the geologically/culturally eccentric Banks Peninsula, then head north for a wildlife encounter in Kaikoura. Continue through to the famous Marlborough Wine Region, and lose a day on the whisper-still waterways of the Marlborough Sounds.

Detour west through artsy Nelson to Abel Tasman National Park and ecof-riendly Golden Bay (more paintbrushes than people). Dawdle south along the West Coast; allow time to gape at the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki and embark on a guided tramp or helihike at Franz Josef Glacier or Fox Glacier. From here, track inland through to hip/hippie Wanaka and adventure sport and ski hub Queenstown. From here, ven-ture southwest to Manapouri for a mesmeris-ing day cruise to Doubtful Sound before wending east to the overgrown deep-south Catlins for a couple of days of waterfalls, wave-lashed coves and penguin-spotting.

Back up the east coast, wheel through Dunedin to surprisingly hip Oamaru, before rolling back into Christchurch.

3 WEEKS

Kaikoura

Christchurch

MarlboroughSounds

Abel TasmanNational Park

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Franz Josef Glacier& Fox Glacier

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Amanda Wee, Beverley Homel, Bordiec Karine, Carol Henshaw, Dana Emanuel, Daniel Brown, Dermot Gatenby, Diana Draper, Dominique Hudson, Ewan Starkey, Gabriella Wortmann, Jean-Pierre Melon, Jenny Reeve, Jo Austin, Joshua Hoe, Julie Woods, Karen Cumming, Leanne Flynn, Lindsey Pointer, Lyndon Moore, Mateusz Kmiecinski, Melissa Bowles, Michael Batt, Ruth Emerson, Sarah Duff-Dobson, Scott Menzies, Shenali Kalawana, Stacey Marr, Steve Sherman, Susan Murray, Tadeo Hernandez Kelly, Wenneke van Weelden.

WRITER THANKSBrett AtkinsonThanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and information centre staff who helped on the road, especially Glenn Ormsby and Mariet van Vierzen in Kaikoura. Cheers to the innovative chefs and inspired craft brewers of New Zealand for surprises and sus-tenance, and to Carol for support on occasional beach, island and city getaways. Thanks to my fellow authors and to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to once again explore my Kiwi backyard.

Andrew BainThanks primarily to Jason and Megan Hopper, who took me to the heights of the mountains and let me take them to the depths of Queenstown’s basement bars. Gracias to Robyn Columbus Pester for a host of information, and the myriad business operators who answered my many queries along the journey. To my greatest gifts – Kiri and Cooper – a big thanks for rolling with it as ever as I wandered in and out of NZ and our other life.

Peter DragicevichHitting the road in my home country is always a spe-cial treat, especially as it provides the opportunity to spend time with family and friends. Special thanks are due to Christine Henderson for her hospitality in the Far North, Richard King in Wellington and the extended Erceg and Wilson clans in Whakatane, espe-cially Manda and Les Wilson. Thanks too to my sister Joanne Cole for her expert appraisal of the standard of cappuccino in the Bay of Plenty.

Samantha ForgeThank you to the many wonderful Kiwis I met through-out the South Island for giving so freely of your time, knowledge and kindness. Thanks to Karyn, my trav-elling companion in Central Otago, for the cake and companionship. And finally, huge thanks to the other Team NZ authors for their friendship and generosity, and to everyone at LP responsible for piecing this puzzle together, especially the lovely Tasmin Waby.

Behind the Scenes


691BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Anita IsalskaHuge thanks to Tasmin Waby for bringing me aboard Team NZ, and to my fellow writers for being wonderful to work with – especially the above-and-beyond input from Andrew Bain, Brett Atkinson and Peter Dragicevich. Thanks for helpful sug-gestions from Nathan Watson and the Mountain Safety Council, patient counsel from numerous i-SITEs, blunt input from Tamara Goodwin, and Jane Atkin’s great wisdom. Thank you Normal Matt, not for accidental acrobatics in Cardrona but for energetic driving, cruising and pub-hopping in Fiordland.

Sofia LevinThank you to my supportive and loving husband, who was left twiddling his thumbs just days after our wedding when I took off for this project; my dear friend Katherine Cameron for constantly checking in on me on the road, you are a fountain of encourage-ment; and to my two biggest fans – Mum and Dad.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Te Puia, Rotorua, North Island, Ruth Black/Shutterstock ©

THIS BOOKThis 19th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand guidebook was curated by Charles Rawlings-Way, and researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Andrew Bain, Peter Dragicevich, Samantha Forge, Anita Isalska and Sofia Levin. The previous three editions were written by Charles Rawlings-Way, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Slater.

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Will Allen, Kate Chapman, Tracy WhitmeySenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Michael WeldonAssisting Editors Janet Austin, Michelle Bennett, Michelle Coxall, Andrea Dobbin, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam,

Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Heather Champion, Daniel Corbett, Mazzy Du Plessis, Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Kathryn Rowan, Jessica Ryan, Victoria Smith, Sam Wheeler

692

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbel Tasman National Park

18, 435, 435-9, 436, 4, 19

accommodation 24, 672-4, see also individual locations

tramping 50, 258adventure sports 27, 57-63,

57, 59, 60, 61, see also individual sports

Ahipara 173-4air travel 41, 683-5

airlines 683-4airports 683-4

Akaroa 20, 505-8, 506, 20albatrosses 562Alexandra 567-9amusement parks

Puzzling World 599animals 653-7 see also

individual speciesAoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 531-6, 534-5, 20, 44, 50, 51, 522

aquariumsEco World Aquarium 405Goat Island Marine Dis-

covery Centre 137-8Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life

Aquarium 87National Aquarium of New

Zealand 353Tongariro National Trout

Centre 276Ardern, Jacinda 640, 651area codes 23, 679-80Arrowtown 595-605,

596, 30Arthur’s Pass 514-16arts 666-70, 665 see

also individual artsastronomy, see stargazingATMs 678

Auckland 12, 71, 76-138, 77, 78, 80-1, 84, 86, 88, 92, 13, 94, 95

accommodation 76, 97-100

activities 91beaches 87children, travel with 101climate 76drinking 107-10entertainment 110-11essential Auckland 83events 96-7festivals 96-7food 76, 101-7highlights 77history 79information 113-38itineraries 96nightlife 107-10shopping 111-12sights 79, 82-91tours 92-3travel seasons 76travel to/from 78, 113-14travel within 114-15walking tours 89, 89

Auckland Pride Festival 96

Awakino 207-9

Bballooning 186Banks Peninsula 20, 502-

9, 503bargaining 25Barrytown 457-8bars 29, 65, 66-7bathrooms 680bats 653-5Bay of Islands 15, 71, 139-41,

152-80, 140-1, 153, 14accommodation 139activities 152climate 139essential Bay of

Islands 142

events 154festivals 154food 139highlights 140-1tours 152-4travel seasons 139travel to/from 154

Bay of Plenty 72, 291, 312-31, 292

accommodation 291climate 291essential Bay of

Plenty 293food 291highlights 292travel seasons 291

Baylys Beach 178-9beaches 27

Auckland 87Bethells Beach 130-1Bream Bay 144Caroline Bay Park 519Cathedral Cove 223children, best for 69Gemstone Beach 623Gillespies Beach 475Great Barrier Island 124Hahei Beach 223Hawke’s Bay 364Hot Water Beach 224-5Kai Iwi Beach 248Karikari Peninsula 170Mangamaunu Beach 421Mangawhai Heads 142Matauri Bay 167New Chum’s Beach 219Ninety Mile Beach 170-2North Shore 100Ocean Beach 200Omaha 136Orewa 133Pakiri Beach 138Palmerston North 263Scotts Beach 453Tahuna Beach 425Tata Beach 441Taupo Bay 167

Tauranga Bay 167Waiheke 117Waihi Beach 227-30Westshore Beach 353Wharariki Beach 442

beer 29, 66-7, 67Auckland 108Beervana 33Nelson 429Tauranga 313

Beervana 33, 378bicycle travel, see cyclingbird parks

Blue Penguin Colony 545Katikati Bird Gardens 322Kiwi Birdlife Park 575Kiwi Encounter 297Moutohora 327National Kiwi Centre 463Otorohanga Kiwi House &

Native Bird Park 201Penguin Place 562Pukorokoro Miranda

Shorebird Centre 212Royal Albatross Cen-

tre 562Wharekawa Wildlife

Refuge 226Wingspan 296-7Yellow-Eyed Penguin

Colony 546bird-watching

Catlins, the 628Kaikoura 419Lake Brunner 461Stewart Island

(Rakiura) 633Waikanae 395

birds 653-5, 44, 382Blackball 461Blenheim 413-18Blue Lake 566, 11Bluff 627-8boat tours see individual

locationsboat travel 684, 685 see

also individual locationsbooks 640, 666


693IN

DEX B

-D breweries

Greymouth 458Kapiti Coast 394Martinborough 396Motueka 432, 433Nelson , 425Palmerston North 259Waipara Valley 513Wanaka 599

budget 23Buller Gorge 448-9Buller Region 448-55bungy jumping 59, 57, 61

Auckland 91Hanmer Springs 510Queenstown 577Rotorua 298Taupo 270

bus travel 41, 685-6

Ccable cars 298-9, 372-3,

487, 574-5, 382cafes 66, 66Cambridge 196-8Canterbury 73, 479-536,

480-1, 522accommodation 479climate 479essential Canterbury 487food 479travel seasons 479

Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial 26

Cape Kidnappers 364Cape Palliser 399Cape Reinga 170-2Cardrona 605-6car travel 40-1, 133,

687-9, 25driving licenses 687hire 40, 687-8insurance 40, 688resources 40road rules 689

Castlepoint 401, 382cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCatlins, the 628-33caves

Abbey Caves 145Cathedral Caves 630Cave Stream Scenic

Reserve 515Kawiti Caves 166Muriwai’s Cave 325Ngarua Caves 439Rawhiti Cave 440Te Anau Glowworm

Caves 610

Waipu 144Waitomo Caves 19, 202-

6, 204, 19caving

Charleston 456Karamea 453Raglan 190Waitomo 203-30

cell phones 22, 680Charleston 455-6children, travel with 69-70Christ Church Raukorore

333, 336, 362Christchurch 73, 479-536,

482-500, 480-1, 483, 484-5, 4, 522-3


activities 489-90children, travel with 492climate 479drinking 497-8entertainment 498-9essential

Christchurch 487events 491-2festivals 491-2food 479, 495-7highlights 480-1history 482information 499itineraries 491nightlife 497-8shopping 499sights 482-9travel seasons 479travel to/from 499-500travel within 500

Christchurch Botanic Gardens 486, 523

Church of the Good Shep-herd 527, 522

churches & cathedralsChrist Church

Cathedral 425Christ Church Raukorore

333, 336, 362Christ Church,

Russell 156Church of Sts Peter &

Paul 134Church of the Good

Shepherd 527, 522Hiona St Stephen’s

Church 330Holy Trinity Cathedral 87Old St Paul’s 372Putiki Church 248-9Sacred Heart Basilica 519St Faith’s Anglican

Church 296

St Joseph’s Church 254St Mary of the

Angels 369-72St Mary’s Church 87St Patrick’s Basilica 545St Patrick’s Cathedral 83St Patrick’s Catholic

Church 505St Paul’s Anglican

Church 159St Paul’s Cathedral 551St Peter’s Anglican

Church 505St Stephen’s Church 524Transitional Cathe-

dral 487, 523Wellington Cathedral of

St Paul 373cinema 640, 667-8, see

also filmscities 27Clay Cliffs Paritea 539climate 22, 675, 22climbing 58-9, 59

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park 533

Auckland 91-7Dunedin 561Hamilton 185Mt Maunganui 318Oamaru 546Queenstown 575-7Raglan 190, 195Rotorua 299Taupo 270Tauranga 313Wanaka 601Wellington 375

Clyde 569coffee 66, 557Colac Bay 623-4Collingwood 442-3Cook, James 645Coroglen 222-3Coromandel Peninsula 71,

181, 210-30, 182, 211accommodation 181climate 181essential Coromandel

Peninsula 183food 181highlights 182history 210-12travel seasons 181

Coromandel Town 215-17Coronet Peak 54, 580, 52craft beer, see beercrayfish 423credit cards 678Croatian settlement 174Cromwell 570-1

Crowded House 195, 669culture 640-1Curio Bay 629-30curling 566currency 22, 678customs regulations 674cycling 685, 60, see

also mountain bikingAlps 2 Ocean Cycle

Trail 532Arrowtown 595-6Banks Peninsula 504, 505Bay of Islands 152Blenheim 414Cambridge 196Christchurch 490Coromandel Peninsula

220, 223Gisborne 341Golden Bay 440Great Taste Trail 431Hokitika 463Kaikoura 421Lake Taupo Cycle

Challenge 34Mackenzie County 528Marlborough

Sounds 408-9Napier 354Nelson 425-6, 60Nga Haerenga (New

Zealand Cycle Trail) 60, 197

North Auckland 133, 137Otago 564, 565Rotorua 300Taupo 270-1Tauranga 313Tongariro River Trail 276Wairarapa, the 396Wanaka 602Wellington 374, 375Westport 451Whangarei 143

DDaily Telegraph Building 351dangers, see safetyDargaville 179-80debit cards 678disabilities, travellers

with 681discount cards 674-5distilleries

Cardrona Distillery & Museum 606

Dancing Sands Distillery 441

diving & snorkelling 61Bay of Islands 160Bay of Plenty 325

694

IND

EX D-H

diving & snorkelling continued

Dunedin 554East Cape 336Milford Sound 619North Auckland 138Picton 405Rena wreck 320Tauranga 313Whangarei Heads 151

dolphins 420, 655-7, 14Doubtful Sound 621-2Doubtless Bay 168-70drinks 64-8driving, see car travelDriving Creek Railway 26Dunedin 74, 537, 549-51,

553-60, 538, 550-1, 552, 542, 543


activities 554-5climate 537drinking 558-9entertainment 559essential Dunedin 541food 537, 556-8highlights 538history 549information 560literature 559nightlife 558-9shopping 559-60sights 550-4travel seasons 537travel to/from 560travel within 560

Duntroon 540-1DVDs 674

Eearthquakes 489, 641, 653East Cape 333-48East Coast 72, 332-65,

334-5accommodation 332climate 332essential East Coast 333food 332highlights 334-5travel seasons 332travel to/from 333travel within 333

Egmont National Park 240-3, 45

electricity 675emergencies 23environmental issues 654etiquette 25events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 23extreme sports, see adven-

ture sports

FFairlie 526-7Farewell Spit 442Far North 166-74festivals & events 31-4,

see also individual locations

Auckland Pride Festi-val 96

Beervana 33, 378Fringe 31, 377Marlborough Wine &

Food Festival 31, 414NZ Tattoo & Art Festival

34, 237Te Matatini National

Kapa Haka Festival 32film 389, 640, 667-8Finn, Tim & Neil 195, 669Fiordland 74, 608-38, 610-

22, 609accommodation 608climate 608essential Fiordland 610food 608highlights 609travel seasons 608

fishingArrowtown 602-7Banks Peninsula 505Kaikoura 422Lake Brunner 461Napier 353Rotorua 300Taupo 272, 278Turangi 276-7

food 28, 64-8, 675, 28, 64, see also individual locations

modern NZ cuisine 65vegetarian & vegan 65

Footrot Flats 344forests, see national parks

& reservesForgotten World

Highway 244Fox Glacier 473-6, 474, 17Franz Josef Glacier 468-

73, 470, 39Fringe 31, 377

Ggalleries, see museums

& galleriesgannets 131, 132, 328, 364gay travellers 677-8, 678

Auckland 96, 109geography 652geology 652-3geothermal areas

Craters of the Moon 270Hell’s Gate 307Orakei Korako 271Waimangu Volcanic

Valley 307Wai-O-Tapu Thermal

Wonderland 307, 16Wairekei Natural Thermal

Valley 269Wairekei Terraces 268-9Whakarewarewa 295-6

Geraldine 525-6geysers

Lady Knox 307Pōhutu 295Prince of Wales’

Feathers 295giardiasis 677Gibbston Valley 582Gisborne 338-45, 340glaciers 469, 472, 473

Fox 473-6, 474, 17Franz Josef 468-73,

470, 39Tasman Glacier 532

Glenorchy 590-5, 39glowworms 203, 463-78,

610-38Golden Bay 439-43Gore 628Great Barrier Island 124-

8, 126Great Coast Road 455-8Great Walks 28-9, 46-8, 49,

see also trampinggreenstone, see pounamuGreymouth 458-62, 460Greytown 398-400

HHaast 476-7Haast Pass Hwy 478Haast Region 476-8Hahei 223-4Hairy Feet Waitomo 208haka 306Hamilton 183-90, 187hāngi 296, 306Hanmer Springs 509-

12, 510Hari Hari 466-7

Haruru 158-62Hastings 358-64, 359Hauraki Gulf 12Hauraki Gulf Islands

115-28, 12Havelock 412Hawera 247-57Hawke’s Bay 348-65, 350health 675-7, see

also safetygiardiasis 677infectious diseases 677insects 676pharmaceuticals 676tap water 676

Heaphy Track 17, 443, 17Helensville 132heliskiing 55hiking, see tramping,

walking tourshistoric buildings & sites

Armstrong Disappearing Gun 562

Arrowtown Gaol 595Arts Centre 487Bendigo Historic

Reserve 570Broken Hills Gold-Mine

Workings 225Chinese Settlement 595Cromwell Heritage

Precinct 570Denniston Plateau 451Ed Hillary Walkway 201Elms, the 312Firth Tower 198Fort Taiaroa 562Fyffe House 419Goldmine Experience

212-3Katherine Mansfield

House 372Kerikeri Mission Sta-

tion 163Kinder House 87Koriniti Marae 255Kororipo Pā 163Larnach Castle 562Maerewhenua Māori

Rock Painting Site 541Maiki 156Maketu Marae 200Mansion House 123Māori Rock Carvings 269Mataatua 323-4Mitchells Gully Gold

Mine 456Monmouth Redoubt 313Napier Prison 353New Zealand Parliament

368, 10-11Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

695IN

DEX H

-L Old Government

Buildings 372Old Government

House 83Olveston 553-4Pompallier Mission 155Rangikapiti Pā Historic

Reserve 169Raurimu Spiral 209Riccarton House &

Bush 488Ruapekapeka Pā 165Takiroa Māori Rock

Painting Site 540Te Hana Te Ao

Marama 136Te Waimate Mission 163Waitangi Treaty Grounds

158-9Waiuta 449-50

history 30, 642-51, see also individual locations

20th-century 649-50British connections

646-51European settlement

644-6land wars 646-8Māori settlement 642-3Musket Wars 646Northland War 157Parihaka Movement 246websites 642, 648

hitching 689Hobbiton 198Hobbit, the 93, 198, 208,

389, 412, 667Hokianga 174-7Hokitika 462-6, 464Hokitika Gorge 463holidays 679Hōne Heke 157Horeke 175horse racing 96horse riding

Cardrona 606Coromandel

Peninsula 222Dunedin 561Far North 173Franz Josef Glacier 471Glenorchy 594Golden Bay 442Hastings 358Kapiti Coast 393Karamea 453Kauri Coast 179Mackenzie County

524, 528Marahau 434Napier 353

North Auckland 138Ohakune 288Owaka 632Palmerston North 263Punakaiki 457Raglan 190Rotorua 311Ruapehu Region 290Selwyn District 514Wanganui 250

hot springsAthenree Hot Springs 228Franz Josef Glacier 471Hanmer Springs 509Lewis Pass 509Lost Spring 220Miranda Hot Springs 212Morere Hot Springs 345Mt Maunganui 317Opal Hot Springs 198Parakai Springs 132Rotorua 299Taranaki Thermal

Spa 236Taupo 271Te Aroha Mineral

Spas 199Te Puia Hot Springs 200Waikite Valley Thermal

Pools 310-11Wairakei Terraces &

Thermal Health Spa 268-9

Waiwera Thermal Resort 134

Hot Water Beach 224-5housing crisis 641

Iimmigration 683Inglewood 243insurance 677

health 675-6internet access 677internet resources 23Invercargill 624-7, 625itineraries 35-8, 35, 36,

37, 38

JJackson Bay 478jetboating 59-60

Buller Gorge 448 Coromandel Peninsula 223

Glenorchy 594Hanmer Springs 510King Country 209Methven 516Murchison 448

Otago 570Queenstown 578, 62Rotorua 298Taupo 270Te Anau 615Tuatapere 623Whanganui National

Park 256

KKahurangi National Park

17, 443-4Kaikoura 12, 418-24,

420, 13Kaitaia 172-3Kaiteriteri 433-4Kaiwaka 143Kaka Point 632-3Kapiti Coast 392-5Kapiti Island 393, 382Karamea 453-5Karangahake Gorge 229Karekare 129-30Karikari Peninsula 170Katikati 322-3Kauri Coast 177-80kauri trees 135, 145, 178,

180, 219Te Matua Ngahere 177

Kawakawa 165-7Kawau Island 123-4Kaweka 365Kawhia 200-1kayaking & canoeing 61,

63, 200, 412, 62Abel Tasman National

Park 437Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 533-4Auckland 91Banks Peninsula 505Bay of Islands 152,

159-60Bay of Plenty 329Cambridge 196-7Christchurch 489Coromandel Peninsula

223-4, 226Doubtful Sound 622Far North 167Franz Josef Glacier 471Golden Bay 441Kaikoura 419, 422Karamea 453Manapouri 621Marlborough Sounds

408-9, 409Milford Sound 619Napier 353National Park Village 286

Nelson 426New Plymouth 236North Auckland 134Okarito 468Otago Peninsula 563Punakaiki 457Raglan 190Rotorua 309-10Stewart Island

(Rakiura) 636Taupo 272Tauranga 313Waiheke Island 119Wanaka 601Wellington 374-5, 375Whanganui National

Park 255-6Whangarei 147, 151

kea 655, 44, 382Kenepuru Sound 412-13Kerikeri 162-5, 164King Country 200-10, 184Kīngitanga 201kiteboarding

Raglan 190kitesurfing 61

Karikari Peninsula 170Nelson 426North Auckland 136

kiwis 638Kohukohu 174-5kumara 179Kumara 462Kumeu 131, 131-2Kurow 540

LLake Brunner 461Lake Hawea 606-7Lake Hayes 598Lake Taupo Region 266-79Lake Tekapo 527-9, 522Lake Waikaremoana Track

347, 348, 362-3lakes

Blue Lake 566, 11Brunner 461Dry Lake 288Hawea 606-7Hayes 598Inferno Crater Lake 307Kai Iwi Lakes 178Kaniere 463Karapiro 196Mahinapua 463Matheson 474Pukaki 530Rotokura 288Rotorua 294-5, 308, 28

696

IND

EX L-M

lakes continuedRoxburgh 568Ruataniwha 529Tarawera 307Tekapo 527-9, 522Tutira 349Wairarapa 395Wakatipu 574Wilkie 631

language 22, 25Lauder 566-7legal matters 677Leigh 137-8lesbian travellers 677-8

Auckland 96, 109Lewis Pass 509literature 559, 640, 666Lorde 670Lord of the Rings, The 93,

198, 377, 389, 529-30, 667

luge 565, 581Lyttelton 501-2

MMackenzie County 521-31Makarora 607Manapouri 620-1Mangawhai 142-4Māori arts 660-5, 665Māori culture 16, 99, 326

arts 660-5, 665cultural centres 295-6festivals 29, 32rock carvings 269traditional music 305villages 136

Māori history 201, 246, 266, 642-3

North Island 162, 192, 243, 272, 337

South Island 394, 450, 501, 540, 592

Māori people 658-65, 17maps 678marae 662Marahau 434-5markets 30, 66Marlborough 73, 402-45,

403, 415, 68accommodation 402climate 402essential

Marlborough 404food 402highlights 403

history 404travel seasons 402travel to/from 404wineries 416-17, 415

Marlborough Sounds 408-9, 410

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival 31, 414

Martinborough 396-8massage 299Masterton 400-1Matakana 136-7Matakohe 180Matamata 198-9measures 674medical services 676medications 676Methven 516-18Middlemarch 564Milford Hwy 617-18Milford Sound 15, 581-2,

619-20, 2, 14, 62Miranda 212mobile phones 22, 680Moeraki 549Mokau 207-9Molesworth Station 512money 22-3, 674-5, 678-9Moriori 643motorcycle travel 687-9Motueka 431-3, 432Motuihe Island 116Motuora Island 123Motutapu Island 116mountain biking 58, see

also cyclingAlexandra 567Bay of Islands 159-60Bay of Plenty 325, 330Coromandel Penin-

sula 213Golden Bay 439Great Barrier Island 125Hanmer Springs 509-10Kaiteriteri 433Karamea 453King Country 209Mackenzie County 526Mt Te Aroha 199National Park Village 286Oamaru 546Ohakune 287-8Queenstown 579-80Rotorua 299Wanaka 601Wellington 375West Auckland 132Whanganui National

Park 257Moutere Hills 430-1

Moutohora (Whale Island) 327

Mt Cook, see Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park

Mt Eden 85, 95Mt Karioi 194Mt Maunganui (Mauao)

317-22, 318Mt Ngauruhoe 281Mt Pureora 208Mt Ruapehu 281, 20Mt Somers 518Mt Taranaki 240-4, 45Mt Titiraupenga 208Mt Tongariro 281Murchison 448-9Muriwai Beach 132museums & galleries

Academy Galleries 373Aigantighe Art Gal-

lery 519Akaroa Museum 505Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park Visitor Centre 531-2

Aratoi Wairarapa Museum of Art & History 400

Art Deco Museum, Ranfurly 564

ArtsPost 185Auckland Art Gallery

82-3Auckland Museum 86-7Bill Richardson Transport

World 624Bluff Maritime

Museum 627Bohemian Museum 134Butler Point Whaling

Museum 169Cambridge Museum 196Canterbury Museum 487C Company Memorial

House 339Central Art Gallery 488Central Hawke’s Bay

Settlers Museum 365Central Stories 567Christchurch Art

Gallery 482City Gallery

Wellington 369Clapham’s National

Clock Museum 145Classic Flyers NZ 317Classics Museum 185Clyde Historical

Museums 569Coaltown Museum 451Cobblestones

Museum 399

Coromandel Mining & Historic Museum 215

Dargaville Museum 179Dowse Art Museum 373Dunedin Public Art

Gallery 550E Hayes & Sons 625East Coast Museum of

Technology 340Edwin Fox Maritime

Museum 405Fairlie Heritage

Museum 526Forrester Gallery 546Founders Heritage

Park 425Fun Ho! National Toy

Museum 243Gallery De Novo 559Geraldine Historical

Museum 525Geraldine Vintage

Car & Machinery Museum 525

Gold Discovery Centre 228

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery 234

Gumdiggers Park 171Hastings City Art

Gallery 358Historical Maritime

Park 230Höglund Art Glass 430Hokianga Bone Carving

Studio 176International Antarctic

Centre 488-9Kaikoura Museum 419Kauri Museum 180Kawhia Regional Mu-

seum & Gallery 200KD’s Elvis Presley

Museum 247Kiwi North 146Kurow Heritage & Infor-

mation Centre 540Lakes District Museum &

Gallery 595Len Lye Centre 234Lighthouse 85Lost Gypsy Gallery 630Mangawhai Museum 142McCahon House 129Mercury Bay Museum 220Moko Artspace 224MOTAT 91MTG Hawke’s Bay 351Nairn Street Cottage 373National Army

Museum 290National Library of New

Zealand 373


697IN

DEX M

-N

National Motorsport Museum 570

National Transport & Toy Museum 599

Nelson Provincial Museum 425

New Zealand Cricket Museum 373

New Zealand Glassworks 248

New Zealand Maritime Museum 85

New Zealand Portrait Gallery 373

New Zealand Rugby Museum 259

New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame 553

Ngā Taonga Sound & Vision 373

No 1 Parnell 175North Otago

Museum 546Okains Bay Māori &

Colonial Museum 503Old School Arts

Centre 190Omaka Aviation Heritage

Centre 413Opotiki Museum 330Otago Museum 554Owaka Museum &

Catlins Information Centre 631

Paeroa Museum 230Percy Thomson

Gallery 243Petone Settlers

Museum 372Puke Ariki 234Quake City 482Rakiura Museum 634-5Rotorua Museum 293-4Russell Museum 156Sarjeant on the

Quay 248School of Mines & Min-

eralogical Museum 213Sea Walls, Napier 351Shantytown 458Sir Edmund Hillary

Alpine Centre 532-3South Canterbury

Museum 519Southland Museum & Art

Gallery 625Southward Car Museum

394-5Steampunk HQ 546Stuart Street Potters

Co-operative 560Suter Art Gallery 26, 425Tairawhiti Museum 339

Taranaki Aviation, Trans-port & Technology Museum 240

Taranaki Pioneer Village 243-4

Taupo Museum 269Tauranga Art Gallery 312Tawhiti Museum 247Te Ahu Centre 172Te Ana Māori Rock Art

Centre 519Te Aroha Museum 199Te Awamutu Museum 195Te Hikoi Southern

Journey 624Te Kōngahu Museum of

Waitangi 158Te Kōputu a te whanga a

Toi 324-5Te Manawa 259Te Papa 368-9Te Uru Waitakere Con-

temporary Gallery 129Toi Art gallery 26Toitū Otago Settlers

Museum 550Torpedo Bay Navy

Museum 88Turnbull Gallery 373Vanished World

Centre 541Victoria Battery Tramway

& Museum 229Village Arts 174Volcanic Activity

Centre 276Waiheke Island

Artworks 117Waiheke Museum &

Historic Village 117Waikato Museum 184Waimarie Centre 248Waipu Museum 144Wairoa Museum 349Waitomo Caves Discov-

ery Centre 203Wallace Arts Centre 90Warbirds & Wheels 599Warkworth District’s

Museum 135Wellington Museum 368Western Bay

Museum 322Whanganui Regional

Museum 248Whangarei Art

Museum 146Whitestone City 26, 546Wool Shed 401World of WearableArt &

Classic Cars Museum 424-5

music 305, 666-70

NNapier 350-8, 352,

362, 363accommodation 354-5activities 353drinking 356entertainment 357events 354festivals 354food 355-6history 350-1information 357nightlife 356sights 351-3tours 353travel to/from 357travel within 358

Naseby 565-6national parks & reserves

657, 656Abel Tasman National

Park 18, 435, 435-9, 19AH Reed Memorial Kauri

Park 145Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 531-6, 534-5, 20, 44, 50, 51, 522

Arai-te-uru Recreation Reserve 176

Arthur’s Pass National Park 515

Bellbird Bush Scenic Reserves 349

Boundary Stream Scenic Reserve 349

Coromandel Forest Park 218

Dome Forest 135Doneraille Park 345Egmont National Park

240-2, 45Hemi Matenga Memorial

Park Scenic Reserve 395

Hinewai Reserve 502-3Hukutaia Domain 330Kahurangi National Park

17, 443-4Lake Rotokura Ecological

Reserve: 288Long Bay Regional Park

132-3Mahurangi Regional

Park 135Mangapohue Natural

Bridge Scenic Reserve 206

Marble Hill 509Morere Springs Scenic

Reserve 345Mt Aspiring National

Park 602

Nelson Lakes National Park 444-5

Ngā Manu 395Omahuta Forest 167Paparoa National Park

456-7Piripiri Caves Scenic

Reserve 206Puketi Forest 167Pureora Forest Park 208Rabbit Island/

Moturoa 430Redwoods Whakare-

warewa Forest 296Ruataniwha Conserva-

tion Park 528, 54Sanctuary Mountain

Maungatautari 196Scandrett Regional

Park 135Shakespear Regional

Park 133Tangoio Falls Scenic

Reserve 349Tararua Forest Park 401Tawharanui Regional

Park 136Te Paki Recreation

Reserves 171Te Urewera 346-8Tongariro National Park

11, 279-84, 280, 11, 20Trounson Kauri Park 178Waipatiki Scenic

Reserve 349Waipoua Forest 177-8Wairere Boulders Nature

Park 175Waitakere Ranges

Regional Park. 129Wenderholm Regional

Park 134Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 468-76Whanganui National Park

253-9, 254Wharerata State

Forest 345Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne

Conservation Park 311White Pine Bush Scenic

Reserve 349National Park Village 285-7Nelson 73, 402-4, 424-30,

403, 426, 60accommodation 402climate 402essential Nelson 404food 402highlights 403travel seasons 402

Nelson Lakes National Park 444-5

698

IND

EX N-R

New Zealand Parliament 368, 10-11

New Plymouth 234-40, 235

newspapers 674Nga Haerenga (New

Zealand Cycle Trail) 60, 197

Ngāti Tarara 174Ninety Mile Beach 170-2North Auckland 132-8Northland 71, 139-80,

140-1accommodation 139climate 139essential Northland 142food 139highlights 140-1travel seasons 139

Northland War 157NZ Tattoo & Art Festival

34, 237

OOakura 245Oamaru 541-8, 544Oban 634-5, 636-8, 637observatories, see star-

gazingOhakune 287-90Ohau 55, 54Ohinemutu 296-7Ohope 329-30Okarito 467-8Omakau 566-7Omapere 176-7Omarama 539-40Onga Onga 365Oparara Basin 454opening hours 23, 679Ophir 566-7Opononi 176-7Opotiki 330-1Opoutere 226Opunake 246-8Orakei Korako 271Otago 18, 74, 537-71,

538, 18accommodation 537climate 537essential Otago 541food 537highlights 538travel seasons 537

Otago Central Rail Trail 18

Otago Peninsula 21, 561-4, 550-1, 21, 542

Otorohanga 201-2Owaka 631-2Owhango 210oysters 627

PPaaku 225Pacific Coast Highway

333-8, 362, 363Pacific Island people 112paddle-boarding

Banks Peninsula 505Bay of Islands 159-60Bay of Plenty 163Nelson 426North Auckland 136Raglan 190Tauranga 313Wellington 374-5

Paekakariki 393-4Paeroa 230Paihia 158-62, 159Pakiri 138Palmerston North 259-

63, 261Pancake Rocks 456Papamoa 321-2Paparoa National Park

456-7Papatowai 630-1paragliding 59, 358Paraparaumu 394-5parasailing 61

Bay of Islands 152Queenstown 580Taupo 270

Paritutu Rock 234parks & gardens

Albert Park 83Auckland Botanic

Gardens 90-1Auckland Domain 87Bastion Point 87-8Botanic Gardens 486-7Brick Bay Sculpture

Trail 136Brooklands Park 235Butterfly Forest 213Caroline Bay Park 519Christchurch Botanic

Gardens 486, 523Dead Dog Bay 117Dunedin Botanic

Garden 554Dunedin Chinese Garden

551, 553Eastwoodhill Arboretum

339-40

Eden Garden 85Giant’s House 505Glenfalloch Woodland

Garden 562Government

Gardens 295Hackfalls Arboretum 345Hagley Park 487Haiku Pathway 322Hamilton Gardens 184-5Jubilee Gardens 196Kuirau Park 294Memorial Park 185Oamaru Public

Gardens 546One Tree Hill 88, 90Otari-Wilton’s Bush 369Pollard Park 414Pukeahu National War

Memorial Park 369Pukeiti 240Pukekura Park 234Queen Elizabeth Park

393, 400Queenstown

Gardens 574Rapaura Water

Gardens 215Robbins Park 313Square, the 259Te Mata Trust Park 358Timaru Botanic

Gardens 519Wanaka Station Park 599Wellington Botanic

Gardens 368Western Springs 88Whangarei Quarry

Gardens 145Wintergarden 87

passports 683Pauanui 225-6Peel Forest 524-5Pelorus Bridge 413Pelorus Sound 412-13penguins 562phonecards 680Picton 404-8, 406Piha 130, 94Pio Pio 207-9planning 24-5

budgeting 23calendar of events 31-4children, travel with

69-70internet resources 23itineraries 35-8, 35, 36,

37, 38NZ basics 22-3NZ regions 71-4repeat visitors 26

top tips 24transport 40-1travel seasons 22, 31-4what to wear 24

Pohara 441-2politics 640-1Poor Knights Islands 151-4population 641Port Chalmers 561postal services 679pounamu 462, 463,

465, 467Pouto Point 180public holidays 679pubs 29, 65, 66-7Puhoi 134-5Puketi 167Puketui Valley 225Punakaiki 456-7

QQueen Charlotte Track

409-12Queenstown 15, 74, 572-

607, 574-90, 573, 576, 578, 591, 15, 61, 62


activities 575, 577-81children, travel with 585climate 572drinking 587-8entertainment 588essential Queenstown 575events 582-3festivals 582-3food 572, 585-7highlights 573history 574information 589itineraries 580nightlife 587-8shopping 589sights 574-5tours 581-2travel seasons 572travel to/from 589-90travel within 590

Rradio 674rafting 58, 63, 2, 28

Buller Gorge 448East Cape 337Hanmer Springs 510Kaikoura 422Mackenzie County 524Murchison 448Napier 353


699IN

DEX R

-S Queenstown 577-8Rotorua 309-10Ruapehu Region 290Taupo 270Tongariro River 277Waitomo Caves 203-5Wanaka 601

Raglan 190-3, 191Rainbow Warrior 152, 168Rakiura 633-8, 634-5Ranfurly 564-5Rangitoto Island 116Rawene 175-6Reefton 449-50Rena wreck 320responsible travel 46Riverstone 547Riverton 624rock climbing, see climbingRoss 466Rotoroa Island 122-3Rotorua 16, 72, 291-307,

292, 294, 16accommodation 291,

300-3activities 297budget travel 304climate 291drinking 305entertainment 305essential Rotorua 293food 291, 303-5highlights 292history 293information 306itineraries 298nightlife 305shopping 305-6sights 293-7Tarawera Trail 310tours 300travel seasons 291travel to/from 306travel within 306-7

Rotorua Lakes 307-12, 308, 28

Routeburn Track 592, 593, 7, 42

Ruahine Ranges 365Ruapehu Region 264, 279-

90, 265accommodation 264climate 264essential Ruapehu

Region 266food 264highlights 265travel seasons 264

Ruataniwha Conservation Park 528, 54

Ruby Coast 430-1rugby 186, 559, 640-1, 18

Hamilton Sevens 31New Zealand Rugby

Museum 259Russell 155-8, 155

Ssafety 679

beaches 224, 676hypothermia 676mountains 283Mt Taranaki 242tramping 44

sailingAuckland Anniversary

Day Regatta 96Tall Ship Race 156Taupo 272

scenic drives 41Alexandra to Milton on

the SH8 568Coromandel coastal

route 215Coromandel Goldfield

Experience 215-6Coromandel Peninsula

219-20Forgotten World

Highway 244Great Barrier Island 125Karangahake Gorge 229Old Russell Road 149Pacific Coast Highway

333-8, 362, 363Surf Highway 45 244-8Te Anga Rd 206-7

scenic flights 421Aoraki/Mt Cook National

Park 534, 535Bay of Plenty 325Fox Glacier 475Franz Josef Glacier 469Glenorchy 594Golden Bay 440Haast 477Karamea 453Mackenzie County

528, 530Mt Maunganui 319Mt Taranaki 242Queenstown 581Rotorua 300Taupo 273Te Anau 616Tongariro National

Park 284Wanaka 602

scenic train travelBay of Islands Vintage

Railway 166

Driving Creek Railway 215Dunedin 555Goldfields Railway 228Hauraki Rail Trail 213Oamaru Steam &

Rail 546TranzAlpine Railway 21,

458-9, 491, 21seals 655-7, 13, 542Selwyn District 514senior travellers 675skiing & snowboarding 20,

29, 52-6, 56, 20, 52, 54, 55

Awakino Skifield 541Broken River 56Cardrona 54-5, 606Cheeseman 56Coronet Peak 54,

580, 52Craigieburn Valley 56Fox Peak 55Hanmer Springs 56, 510internet resources 53Mackenzie County

526, 527Manganui 54, 241Methven 516Mt Dobson 55Mt Hutt 55, 517Mt Lyford 56Mt Olympus 56Nelson Lakes National

Park 445Ohau 55, 54planning 53Porters 55Queenstown 580Rainbow 56Remarkables, the 54Roundhill 55Snow Farm New

Zealand 55Snowplanet 133Temple Basin 55Tongariro National

Park 53-4Tukino 54, 284Turoa 53-4, 284Whakapapa 53-4, 283-4

skydiving 58-9Fox Glacier 475Franz Josef Glacier

469-71Glenorchy 593-4Methven 517Motueka 432Mt Maunganui 318Queenstown 580Taupo 270Wanaka 601

Whangarei 146Sky Tower 83, 57, 95smoking 674Snell, Sir Peter 247snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsnowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingSouthland 74, 608-38, 609

accommodation 608climate 608essential Southland 610food 608highlights 609travel seasons 608

Split Enz 669sports, see individual sportsSt Bathans 566stargazing 527


Great Barrier Island 26, 124, 125

Space Place 369-401Stardome 90Whakatane

Observatory 325Stewart Island 633-8,

634-5Stratford 243-4Surf Highway 45 244-8surfing 63

Auckland 92Bay of Plenty 329Christchurch 490Coromandel

Peninsula 226Curio Bay 629Dunedin 554Far North 173Gisborne 340-1Great Barrier Island 124-5Kaikoura 421Mt Maunganui 317New Plymouth 236Oakura 245Opunake 246Piha 130Raglan 190, 194Whangarei 151

swimming 490Auckland 92Dunedin 554Gisborne 340-1Mt Maunganui 318Napier 353Palmerston North 259Rotorua 299Taupo 271-2Wellington 375

700

IND

EX T-V

TTairua 225-6Takaka 439-41Takaka Hill 439tap water 676Taranaki 72, 231-63, 232-3

accommodations 231climate 231essential Taranaki 236food 231highlights 232-3travel seasons 231

Taumarunui 209-10Taumatawhakatangihang-

akoauauotamateaturi-pukakapikimaungahoro-nukupokaiwhenuakitan-atahu 364-5

Taupiri 185Taupo 72, 264-90, 265,

267, 268accommodation 264,

273-4activities 270-2climate 264drinking 275essential Taupo 266events 273festivals 273food 264, 274-5highlights 265history 266-8information 276nightlife 275shopping 275-6sights 268-70tours 272travel seasons 264travel to/from 276travel within 276

Tauranga 312-17, 314taxes 678Te Anau 610-17, 611Te Araroa 50Te Aroha 199-200Te Awamutu 195, 195-6Te Hana Te Ao Marama 136Te Henga 130-1Te Kooti 346Te Kuiti 207Te Mata Peak 358Te Matatini National Kapa

Haka Festival 32Te Puia 295-6Te Urewera 346-8Te Waewae Bay 623-4

telephone services 679-80tennis 96Thames 212-15, 214Timaru 519-21, 520time 22, 680tipping 25Tiritiri Matangi Island 123Titirangi 128-9toilets 680Tongariro Alpine

Crossing 282Tongariro National Park 11,

279-84, 280, 11, 20tourist information 680tours, see individual

locationstrain travel 41, 689tramping 28-9, 42-51, 49,

94, see also Great Walks

Abel Tasman National Park 435-7

Alexandra-Clyde 150th Anniversary Walk 567, 569


Auckland 91-2Banks Peninsula 503Blackball 461books 44Buller Gorge 448Caples Track 592-3, 593Christchurch 490Coastal Walkway 236Coast to Coast

Walkway 91-2Cooks Cove Walkway 336Coromandel Forest

Park 218Coromandel Peninsula

226Dunedin 555, 542-3Fox Glacier 473-5Franz Josef Glacier 469Gisborne 341Glenorchy 590-3Golden Bay 440Great Barrier Island 125Greenstone Track 592-

3, 593Greymouth 459Gunn’s Camp 618Haast 477Hanmer Springs 509-10Hokitika 463Hollyford Track 615, 47Huatoki Walkway 236Humboldt Falls 618internet resources 43-4Jackson Bay 478

Kahurangi National Park 443-4

Kaikoura 421Karamea 454Kenepuru Sound 412Kepler Track 611-12, 613Kerikeri River Track 163Lake Waikaremoana

Track 347, 348, 362-3Lewis Pass 509Mackenzie County 524,

526, 527, 528Makarora 607Manapouri 621Mangawhai Cliff Top

Walkway 142maps 44Marlborough Sounds

408-9Methven 516Milford Hwy 617-18Milford Track 612-13, 614Mt Maunganui 317, 318Mt Somers 518Mt Taranaki 240-4, 45Mt Te Aroha 199Murchison 448National Park Village 286Nelson 425-6Nelson Lakes National

Park 444-5New Plymouth 236Ngā Tapuwae o Toi

(Footsteps of Toi) Walkway 325

Ohakune 287-8Okarito 467Opunake Walkway 246Otago Peninsula 562Owaka 632Pelorus Sound 412Picton 405Pike29 Memorial Track

26, 461Punakaiki 456-7Queen Charlotte Track

409-10Queenstown 575-7Rangitoto Island 116Redwoods Whakare-

warewa Forest 296Reefton 450Rotorua 299, 310Routeburn Track 592,

593, 7, 42Southern Scenic

Route 621Stewart Island (Rakiura)

635-6Tangoio Walkway 349Taupo 270-1

Te Anau 610-16Te Ara Tahuna Estuary

Cycle & Walkway 133Te Araroa 44, 50Te Paki Coastal Track 171Te Urewera National

park 347Tongariro Alpine

Crossing 282Tongariro National Park

281-3Tongariro River Trail 276Tuatapere 623Turangi 276Waiheke Island 119Waitomo Caves 205Wanaka 599-601West Coast Wilderness

Trail 459Westport 451Whakapapa Village 284Whanganui 250Whanganui National Park

256-7Whangarei Heads 150Whangaroa Harbour 167-8Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne

Conservation Park 311White Cliffs Walkway 240

trams 490-1Transitional Cathedral

487, 523TranzAlpine Railway 21,

458-9, 491, 21travel advice 679travel to/from New Zealand

683-4travel within New Zealand

40-1, 684-9Treaty of Waitangi 158-

9, 646trout 278Tuatapere 622-3tuatara 655Tunnel Beach Walkway

555, 543Turangi 276-9, 277Tutukaka Coast 151-4TV 667-8, 674Twizel 529-31

UUniversity Clock Tower

83, 95Urupukapuka Island 162

Vvacations 679vaccinations 676vegetarian & vegan

travellers 65


701IN

DEX V

-Z vintage railway, see scenic

train travelvisas 681-2visual arts 668-9volcanoes 652-3

Auckland Volcanic Field 98

Bay of Plenty 328Mt Eden 85, 95Mt Ngauruhoe 281Mt Ruapehu 281Mt Tongariro 281One Tree Hill 88, 90Whakaari (White

Island) 328volunteering 673, 682

WWaiheke Island 12, 117-22,

118, 12Waihi 227-30Waihi Beach 227-30Waikanae 395Waikato 71, 181-230,

182, 184accommodation 181climate 181essential Waikato 183food 181highlights 182history 183Māori culture 183travel seasons 181

Waikato War 293Waimamaku 177Waimangu Volcanic

Valley 307Wai-O-Tapu Thermal

Wonderland 307. 16Waiotemarama 177

Waiouru 290Waipara Valley 512-13Waipoua Forest 177-8Waipu 144-5Wairakei 268-9, 270, 268Wairarapa, the 395-401Wairoa 348-9Waitakere Ranges 129Waitaki District 539-49Waitaki Valley 540-1Waitangi 158-62. 2Waitomo Caves 19, 202-6.

204. 19Waiwera 134wakeboarding, see

paddle-boarding

walking toursAuckland 89. 89Wellington 379. 379

Wanaka 74, 572-4, 599-605, 573, 600, 47

accommodation 572climate 572essential Wanaka 575food 572highlights 573travel seasons 572

Wanganui, see WhanganuiWarkworth 135-6waterfalls

Aratiatia Rapids 269Huka Falls 269Marokopa Falls 206Purakaunui Falls 631Rere Falls 341Te Reinga Falls 345Waireinga 194Wairere Falls 198, 324Whangarei Falls 145

weather 22, 675, 22weights 674Wellington 11, 73, 366-401,

367, 370-1, 374-5, 10, 382, 383 accommoda-tion 366

activities 374-5children, travel with 384climate 366drinking 386-8entertainment 388-9essential Wellington 369events 377-8festivals 377-8food 366, 381-6highlights 367information 390itineraries 380nightlife 386-8shopping 389-90sights 368-73sleeping 378-81tours 375-7travel seasons 366travel to/from 390-1travel within 391-2walking tours 379, 379

West Auckland 128-32West Coast 17, 73, 446-78,

447, 17accommodation 446climate 446food 446

highlights 447travel seasons 446

Westland 462-8Westland Tai Poutini

National Park 468-76Westport 450-3Whakaari (White Island) 328Whakapapa Village 284-5Whakarewarewa 295-6Whakatane 323-9, 324whales 655-7whale watching

Catlins, the 628Kaikoura 419, 421

Whangamata 226-8Whanganui 72, 231, 248-

63, 232-3, 249accommodations 231climate 231essential Whanganui 236food 231highlights 232history 253travel seasons 231

Whanganui National Park 253-9, 254

Whangarei 142-52, 146-7Whangarei Heads 150Whangaroa Harbour 167-8Whataroa 467Whenuakite 222-3whitebait 466Whitianga 220-2, 221wi-fi, 671wildlife reserves, see zoos

& wildlife reserveswine 67-8, 397wine regions 27-8, 416, 415 wineries 68

Bay of Plenty 322Coromandel Penin-

sula 229Gibbston Valley 582, 28Gisborne 343Hawke’s Bay 357Marlborough 416-17,

415, 68North Auckland 135Otago 540, 570Rotorua 297Russell 156Tauranga 312, 313Waiheke Island 117Waipara Valley 513Wairarapa, the 397West Auckland 131

wine toursAuckland 93Blenheim 414Hastings 359Martinborough 396Masterton 401Napier 354Nelson 426-7Queenstown 581Waiheke Island 120Wellington 376

women travellers 682work 682

Zzip-lining

Driving Creek Railway 26, 215

Queenstown 581Rotorua 298Taupo 270

zoos & wildlife reserves, see also bird parks

Aroha Island 163Auckland Zoo 88Brooklands Zoo 235Goat Island Marine

Reserve 138Hamilton Zoo 185Motuara Island 408Nature’s Wonders

Naturally 561-2Orana Wildlife Park 488Orokonui

Ecosanctuary 561Paradise Valley

Springs 297Point Kean Seal

Colony 419Poor Knights marine

reserve 151Pukaha Mt Bruce National

Wildlife Centre 400Rainbow Springs 297Sugar Loaf Islands

Marine Park 234Te Angiangi Marine

Reserve 364Te Whanganui-A-Hei

Marine Reserve 220Ulva Island 634Wellington Zoo 373West Coast Wildlife

Centre 468-9Willowbank Wildlife

Reserve 488Zealandia 368

702

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Samantha ForgeChristchurch & Canterbury, Dunedin & Otago Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed backpack and a copy of LP’s Europe on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to Aus-tralia to work as an editor in LP’s Melbourne office. Eventually, however, her wan-derlust got the better of her, and she now works as a freelance writer and editor.

Anita IsalskaFiordland & Southland, West Coast (South Island) Anita is a travel journalist, edi-tor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and

magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Sofia LevinTaranaki & Whanganui, Taupo & the Ruapehu Region Sofia is a Melbourne-based journalist with an insatiable appetite for food and travel. A regular contributor to Lonely Planet, Fairfax newspapers and a range of magazines, she has been re-ferred to as “one of Melbourne’s most influential and creative social media per-sonalities” by Tourism Victoria. When she’s not travelling, Sofia runs Word Salad – a social media and copywriting business established in 2012 – and spreads

smiles with her Insta-famous toy poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Follow her adventures at @sofiaklevin.


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415319th edition – Sep 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 079 6© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSCharles Rawlings-WayCharles is a veteran travel, food and music writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Tonga, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous arti-cles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project man-agement and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since.

Brett AtkinsonAuckland, Waikato & the Coromandel Peninsula, East Coast (North Island), Marl-borough & Nelson Brett is based in Auckland but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer and is featured regularly on the Lone-ly Planet website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as

diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.

Andrew BainQueenstown & Wanaka Andrew’s writing and photography feature in magazines and newspapers around the world, and his writing has won multiple awards, including best adventure story and best Australian story (three times) from the Australian Society of Travel Writers. He was formerly commissioning editor of Lonely Planet’s outdoor adventure series of titles, and is the author of Headwinds, the story of his 20,000-kilometre cycling journey around Australia, and Lonely

Planet’s A Year of Adventures. His musings can be found at www.adventurebeforeavarice.com.

Peter DragicevichBay of Islands & Northland, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty, Wellington Region After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giv-ing up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly dispa-rate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls

Auckland his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

New Zealand (Aotearoa) - Lonely PlanetNew Zealand (Aotearoa) Charles Rawlings-Way Brett Atkinson,...

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Transcript of New Zealand (Aotearoa) - Lonely PlanetNew Zealand (Aotearoa) Charles Rawlings-Way Brett Atkinson,...