New QC Notes

7/30/2019 New QC Notes

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Quality Control (QC) in Garments

(Class Notes)


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Table of ContentsTable of Contents

No.No. LecturesLectures PagePage1.1. INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

Quality ControlQuality Control Quality AssuranceQuality Assurance MeasurementMeasurement AnthropometryAnthropometry Input / Output ProcessInput / Output Process

33

2.2. TEXTILE PROCESSESTEXTILE PROCESSES 44

3.3. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTIONFABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION Some common defects in Fabrics

Methods to inspect the defects in Fabric

44

4.4. STEPS IN GARMENT PREPARATIONSTEPS IN GARMENT PREPARATION 55

5.5. CUTTINGCUTTING Cutting ProcessCutting Process Notches Notches Cut PlanCut Plan

556666

6.6. SHIRT (TYPES & PARTS) Types of Shirts Parts of Shirts

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7.7. SHIRT (Miscellaneous) Collar Collar Neck Neck Cuff Cuff PleatPleat DartDart FittingFitting DrapeDrape Male Shirt Measurement

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1010

11111313

14141515

8.8. SEAMSEAM Types of SeamsTypes of Seams ISO Stitches ClassificationISO Stitches Classification

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9.9. ORDER SHEETORDER SHEET 1818

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1.1. INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

Quality ControlQuality Control

Quality control (QC) is a procedure or set of procedures intended to ensure that amanufactured product or performed service adheres to a defined set of quality criteria or meets the requirements of the client or customer.

Quality AssuranceQuality Assurance

Quality assurance (QA) is defined as a procedure or set of procedures intended to ensure thata product or service under development (before work is complete, as opposed to afterwards)meets specified requirements.QC is similar to, but not identical with, QA.QA & QC sometimes are expressed together as asingle expression, quality assurance and control (QA/QC).

MeasurementMeasurement

o 1 = 8 points (8 sutar)o 10 mm = 1 cmo 1 = 2.54 cmo Metric measures (meter/centimeters) are used in UK & USAo Imperial measures (foot/Inches) are used in China & Koreao Anthropometry is the science that deals with measurement of the size, weight, and

proportions of the human body.o

1 inch or 1o 1 foot or 1

AnthropometryAnthropometry

Anthropometry is the science dealing with measurement of the size, weight, and proportionsAnthropometry is the science dealing with measurement of the size, weight, and proportions of the human body.of the human body.

Input / Output Process (Example)Input / Output Process (Example)

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2.2. TEXTILE PROCESSESTEXTILE PROCESSES

Ginning/SynthesizingSpinningWeaving/Loaming/KnittingProcessing (Dying + Printing)Garments

3.3. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTIONFABRIC

QUALITY INSPECTION

Some common defects in FabricsSome common defects in Fabrics

Slub, Barre, Crease, Stains, Hole, Contamination, Others

Methods to inspect the defects in FabricMethods to inspect the defects in Fabric

AQL (Acceptance Quality Level):

In this method defects are marked as Major, Minor & Critical. ( Hole in fabric is alwayscritical.)

4 Point System

o 0 3 defect is given 1 pointo 3 6 defect is given 2 pointo 6 9 defect is given 3 pointo 9 above inches defect is given 4 point ( Hole in fabric secures 4 points)Suppose, a sample of fabric, taken from a selected role of fabric, secures 42 points; we can

calculate the total points, secured by the rest of the role, as follows:Points secured by a Role of Fabric = Number of point x 39.36 x 100

Length of Role x Width of Fabric= 42 x 39.36 x 100 = 35 points approximately

83 x 57Since the International Standard for acceptance is 30-33 points, and we know 35 > 30-33, sowe will reject our selected Role of fabric.

GSD (General Sewing Data) :

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GSD (General Sewing Data) is a system that assists us in our continued improvement of quality and productivity. On completion every garment has a detailed method description for every operation in the sewing process, ensuring consistency in production and safeguardingquality standards. GSD is a computer database used for methods engineering and also

provides accurate and consistent time standards. The GSD method describes the manufacturein terms of the exact motions required to produce garments in the required time and to therequired quality standards.

4.4. STEPS IN GARMENT PREPARATIONSTEPS IN GARMENT PREPARATION

Pattern Making

CuttingStitching/SewingWashingFinishingPackingDispatch

5.5. CUTTINGCUTTING

Cutting ProcessCutting Process

i. Layering (Single layer of fabric is known as Ply)

o Relaxation (The relaxation time of Lycra is 8-24 times more than other fabrics)o Alignmento Creasingo Types of layers

Face to FaceFace to Back

ii. Tracing

o Firmly grip measuring instrumento Maximum use of fabrico Accurate usage of Pattern

iii. Cutting

o Pitch (Alignment of Cutter)o Cutting Ratio

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o Steps in Cutting1. Small Parts2. Front and Back Parts3. Assembly

iv. Cut Parts Checking & Numbering

v. Bundling

NotchesNotches (( Notches are the cuts that are used to line up two or more pieces of fabric to join together.)

o Slit: used in common dresseso V Notch: used in Curtains etc (Inner V Notch, Outer V Notch)o

T Notch: used in Shoeso Castle Notch: used in heavy materials like leather jackets & uppers

Cut PlanCut Plan For an order of 10000 pieces of garments having a consumption of 1.5 m/ piece, the Total

Fabric Required will be 1.5 x 10000 = 15000 metres. If only 10000 metres of fabric isavailable in our inventory, how will we set our Cut Plan? Note: Fabric required for a pieceof garment is known as consumption.Pieces = Available Fabric in Inventory / consumption = 10000 / 1.5 = 6667 pieces

We know the ratio of size

S M L XL1 : 2 : 2 : 1

S = 1/6 x 6667 = 1111 piecesM = 2/6 x 6667 = 2222 piecesL = 2/6 x 6667 = 2222 piecesXL = 1/6 x 6667 = 1111 pieces

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6.6. SHIRT (TYPES & PARTS)SHIRT

(TYPES & PARTS)

Types of ShirtsTypes of Shirts

o T-Shirts

o Polo Shirts

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Parts of ShirtsParts of Shirts

o Shirt (Front Parts)

o Shirt (Back Parts)

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7.7. SHIRT (Miscellaneous)SHIRT

(Miscellaneous)

CollarCollar

o Two basic types of Collars:i. One piece collar

ii. Two piece collar o Parts of a Collar:

o Miscellaneous Types of Collars

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Neck Neck

o Types of Neck in garments (t.b.s)

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Cuff Cuff

PleatPleat

o Knife Pleat

o Box Pleat

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o Inverted Pleat

o Side Pleat

o Miscellaneous Pleats

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DartDart

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FittingFitting

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o Fittedo Close Fittingo Loose Fittingo Semi Fittedo Very Loose Fitting

DrapeDrape

oo IntroIntro Drape is the way that fabric hangs. The process of draping involves sewing loosely hangingmaterial to a garment to create a flowing look.Garment drape has received major attention of designers from the beginning. They haveexploited this property of fabric in creating new styles according to changing fashion trends.Garment either hangs down from the shoulder or from the waist and drapes over the hipforming waves or folds at hemline. Quality of folds viz. number, shape and size of folds in agarment depends upon several factors.Garment either hangs down from the shoulder or from the waist and drapes over the hipforming waves or folds at hemline. Quality of folds viz. number, shape and size of folds in agarment depends upon several factors.

oo Two basic types of Drapes:Two basic types of Drapes:

i. Natural Drapeii. Induced drape

Male Shirt MeasurementMale Shirt Measurement

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8.8. SEAMSEAM

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Seam is the series of stitches.

Types of SeamsTypes of Seams

There are four common types of Seams.

o Super Imposed Seam

o Bounded Seam

o Flat Seam

o Lapped Seam

ISO Stitches ClassificationISO Stitches Classification

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1. Class 100: Single Thread Chain StitchIt is used for bottom hamming in dressing pants etc. (Turpie)

2. Class 200: Hand Stitch3. Class 300: Lock Stitch / Single Needle & Lock Stitch / Double Needle (common

sewing machines)4. Class 400: Multi Thread Chain Stitch / Feed of the Arm machine / Feedo Machine5. Class 500: Over-edge Stitch

i. Over-lock Machine (Three Thread Machine)One Needle, Two loppers thread

ii. Safety Machine (Five Thread Machine)Two Needles, Three loppers thread

6. Class 600: Flat Lock (Important in Knitting Industry)7. Class 700: Bar tack Machine (used for Strength and Design)

SPI of Bar tack Machines is 35 to 70 stitches. (SPI = Stitches Per Inch)

9.9. ORDER SHEETORDER SHEET

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