New models and trends in Fine Watchmaking for 2014
-
Upload
fondation-de-la-haute-horlogerie -
Category
Documents
-
view
218 -
download
8
description
Transcript of New models and trends in Fine Watchmaking for 2014
in Fine Watchmaking for
HAUTE HORLOGERIE JOURNALS
IntroductionThe Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) takes pleasure in presenting this latest Haute Horlogerie Journal - Trends and New Models, now a fixture in its calendar of publications. Indeed, this third edition comes buoyed by the success of its two prede-cessors. No other publication offers an exhaustive and independently compiled inventory of the emblematic timepieces proposed by the Maisons in the Fine Watch segment. As in previous years, certain conditions have guided this selection, such as to include a maximum of four watches per brand, and to feature only those which display genuine innovation in their mechanisms or aesthetic. The result is a no less reliable view of advances made in the industry as a whole.
Nomenclature is also respected. All the watches in these pages are presented with a list of technical criteria which, as far as possible and based on available information, details the same specifications for each. A brief commentary further describes the reasons for their presence in this Haute Horlogerie Journal. In addition, each timepiece is assigned to one of four categories, identified by a colour: Classic, Design, Technical and Women's. All that remains is to wish you, the reader, the same enjoyment in browsing these pages as their authors had in writing them!
CHRISTOPHE ROULET
FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE
INTRODUCTION
Contents
2013, a year of consolidation 4
Trends for 2014 6
Definition of a new model 8
BRANDS
A. Lange & Söhne 10
Andreas Strehler 12
Armin Strom 13
Audemars Piguet 14
Baume & Mercier 16
Beat Haldimann 18
Blancpain 19
Boucheron 21
Bovet 1822 23
Breguet 25
Breitling 27
Bulgari 29
Cartier 31
Chanel 33
Chopard 35
Christophe Claret 37
Corum 39
De Bethune 41
de Grisogono 43
DeLaneau 45
F.P.Journe 47
Franck Muller 48
Girard-Perregaux 50
Glashütte Original 52
Greubel Forsey 54
H. Moser & Cie 55
Harry Winston 56
Hautlence 58
Hermès 59
Hublot 61
IWC 63
Jaeger-LeCoultre 65
Jaquet Droz 67
JeanRichard 69
Kari Voutilainen 70
Louis Vuitton 71
Maîtres du Temps 73
MB&F 74
Montblanc 75
Omega 77
Panerai 79
Parmigiani Fleurier 80
Patek Philippe 82
Paul Gerber 83
Perrelet 84
Piaget 85
Pita Barcelona 87
Ralph Lauren 88
Richard Mille 89
Roger Dubuis 91
Rolex 93
Romain Gauthier 94
Speake-Marin 95
TAG Heuer 97
Ulysse Nardin 98
Urwerk 100
Vacheron Constantin 101
Van Cleef & Arpels 103
Vianney Halter 105
Zenith 106
4 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
2013, a year of consolidationBY CHRISTOPHE ROULET
To imagine that Swiss watchmaking could carry on indefinitely with the same meteoric growth as in the post-subprime crisis era would have been unrealistic. Gaining 1.9% on 2012, 2013 was thus a year of "consolidation at a high level" (to borrow a favourite expression when describing these cycles), though no less another record year for Swiss watch exports which climbed to CHF 20.8 billion. Unsurpri-singly, mechanical watches performed best and confirmed they are the front-runners of time measurement. Representing some 25% of Swiss watch exports in quantity, they account for close to 80% in value.
A foreseeable result of anti-corruption campaigns, Hong Kong and China weighed most heavily on business performance last year, with respectively a 5.6% drop for the Swiss watch industry's main export market and a 12.5% decline for its third biggest desti-nation. Not that we should paint too bleak a picture. In the first four months of 2014, the value of watches that travelled beyond Swiss borders posted a healthy increase of almost 4%. Furthermore, the sector continues to take on new staff, creating an additional 1,500 jobs in Switzerland last year and probably as many again in the rest of the world. Investment is also holding up well. Far from battening down the hatches, Swiss watch-making is showing its confidence in the future.
This optimism is more than confirmed by the prolificacy of the sector, which is echoed in these pages. For more than a decade, watchmakers have invested in the necessary means to give ever greater scope to their collections, a direction further reflected in the importance these Manufactures now attach to research and development. The growing
5Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
number of fairs intended to showcase the measurement of time offers yet another illus-tration of this forward march. Baselworld was the only real reference until it was joined, some three decades ago, by the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, soon followed by the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, which celebrates its silver jubilee in 2015. A trio that must now accommodate the numerous other events to have taken up residence in Mexico City (SIAR), London (QP), Munich (Inhorgenta), Paris (Belles Montres), New York (TimeCrafters) or Hong Kong (Watches&Wonders), to name but the most prominent.
Another sure sign is the value of Swiss timepieces, which continues on its upward trajectory. Latest figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reveal that the average price of a Swiss watch climbed to $791 in 2013. This is 5.9% up on 2012 and a figure that has more than quadrupled over twenty years. What's more, these are export values for a market which in retail prices represents some $60 billion. By way of comparison, the average price of watches exported from China in 2013 amounted to $3 and $21 for watches leaving Hong Kong.
Some see this as evidence of Swiss watchmaking's quasi unshakeable grip on the mecha-nical watch market. A matter of tradition, one might say, but this is only part of the picture. Switzerland continues to leave an indelible mark on the measurement of time, and leave the competition far behind, because it has shown itself able to adapt to economic forces and become that unique junction between cutting-edge industry and high craftsmanship. An alchemy borne out by the statistics of these past years.
6 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Trends for 2014BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET
No timepiece can be too beautiful to adorn a feminine wrist. Particularly now that women make no secret of their love affair with the tick-tock of a mechanical watch. Watchmakers needed no further encouragement to offer them their heart's desire, some with métiers d'art, which certain Maisons master with ever greater perfection, some with creations as technically astounding, if not baffling, as their futuristic inventions for men - with an added dash of poetry of course - and others with collections imagined for her and her only. Granted, this isn't a recent trend but it is becoming more entrenched. As though watchmakers were realising they had forgotten something along the way. Or rather someone!
Colour is conspicuously absent from the year's new styles. Black is back, beefing up the contours of one or other sports watch or underscoring the virtues of a crisp, clean line, as evidenced by ultra-thin timepieces. Year after year, watchmakers take thinness to new record levels in a high-wire performance that is widely considered one of the purest expressions of horological classicism. Such wafer-like watches are an expression of sovereign luxury and mechanical mastery on an infinitely small scale. Indeed, with components that barely exceed a few tenths of a millimetre in height and tolerances measured in microns, hence their greater fragility compared with more generously sized movements, these timepieces demand a rare level of expertise.
The same virtuosity is apparent in movements, now prominently positioned in the horological spectrum. No efforts are spared in transforming these calibres into veritable
7Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
works of art. Dials are banished to make way for skeletonwork that will reveal the calibre in its most essential attire. This trend is such that certain watchmakers now develop their movements with the possibility of a later skeletonised version in mind. In a similar vein, where dials do exist they too have likely been cut away to allow a glimpse of the vital organs beating beneath. Thus the mechanics of time become a symphony written in harmonies of art and technique.
Where art, and its applications, are concerned, the preservation of rare and ancient crafts is now rivalled by a novel approach intended to introduce new techniques or established skills which have yet to express themselves on a horological canvas. Rose petal marquetry, bulino engraving, glyptic and millefiori crystal are just some examples. These artistic crafts offer infinite scope for expression to watchmakers who no longer conceive their activity in purely mechanical terms, but with a touch of poetry that renders each timepiece all the more desirable.
Which leaves us to contemplate watchmaking's most compelling complications. Striking watches this year come to the fore with an array of complex and innovative minute repeaters. Originally designed to give the time in all circumstances, in parti-cular after candles had been snuffed for the night, these dignified representatives of another age have been reimagined for today. A reminder that watchmaking can never fully pay its debt to its illustrious precursors. A reminder too that often, the pupil outshines the master.
8 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Definition of a new modelThe four main categories of new model At the beginning of each year, watch companies present their new products. The distinction has clearly been made between watches that bring variants or a new design feature to an existing collection, and new watches that fall into one or more of the following categories:
A WOMEN’S watch is defined by the following characteristics:
• A woman’s watch is not a derivative of an existing man’s watch
• Mechanical watches are designed for women
• The watch is specifically intended as a jewel-watch
The characteristics of a DESIGN watch are as follows:
• Particular focus on design to enhance legibility of the watch’s functions, provides genuine added value and becomes an identifying feature of the watch
• Original movement, case or dial structure
• Contributions from the métiers d’art such as engraving, gem-setting, enamelling, marquetry, engine-turning, mosaic and sculpting
• Skeleton and openworked movements as an embellishing feature
A CLASSIC watch belongs to either of the following two categories:
• One which emphasises a restrained aesthetic and a smooth, flowing line, and whose movement is without grandes complications. This classic watch has enduring elegance and the forgotten charm of an indefinable era.
• One whose original launch dates back at least twenty years and therefore qualifies as "vintage". It is often an iconic model from a brand that wishes to perpetuate a defining style. Vintage constitutes an important trend in contemporary watchmaking.
WOMEN’S DESIGN
CLASSIC
The characteristics of a TECHNICAL watch are as follows:
• Any new calibre or original module equip-ping a "simple" or complicated watch
• Use of innovative materials or materials not generally used in watchmaking
• Advances in high-frequency technology
• Extra-thin movements
TECHNICAL
9Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
2014 Trends and new modelsAlphabetical order by brand
10 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
A. Lange & Söhne
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L051.1 calibre, 188 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds
Dial | silver-coloured solid silver
Case | rose gold, 38.5 mm ø, 8.8 mm high, sapphire back
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L102.1 calibre, 262 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds and patented zero-reset mechanism
Dial | silver-coloured solid silver
Case | platinum, 39.5 mm ø, 11.1 mm high, sapphire back
1815
In Socrates' day, an inscription on the fronton of the Temple of Apollo in Delphi read μηηηη ηηηη (mêdén ágan) or "nothing in excess". A belief shared by Ferdinand A. Lange, founder of the eponymous brand whose year of birth is also the name of this collection. The watchmaker from Glashütte embraces this principle in the new 1815, a reminder that the measurement of time has one of its most beautiful expressions in an authentically classic watch.
1815 TOURBILLON
When the crown on this new timepiece by A. Lange & Söhne is pulled out, the tourbillon cage instantly stops and the seconds hand returns immediately to zero so that time can be set to the exact second. Such a feat is made possible by the interaction between two patented mechanisms: the tourbillon stop, a prowess in itself, and the zero-reset. This unprecedented function is further accentuated by the watch's classic design. Limited edition of 100 for the platinum version.
TECHNICAL TECHNICALCLASSIC
11Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
A. Lange & Söhne
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L095.3 calibre, 446 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator, large date, moon phases
Dial | silver-coloured solid silver
Case | rose gold, 41.0 mm ø, 9.5 mm high, sapphire back
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L096.1 calibre, 787 parts, constant-force escapement with remontoir spring, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 14-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, regulator seconds, perpetual calendar with large date, day, month and leap year in apertures, power-reserve indicator, orbital moon-phase display with day/night indication on the movement side
Dial | silver-coloured solid silver
Case | white gold, 45.5 mm ø, 16.5 mm high, sapphire back
GRAND LANGE 1 MOON PHASE
The new Lange 1 from the Glashütte manufacture turns all eyes on the moon-phase display which features prominently on the main dial. As always, precision is uppermost hence the Lange engineers have developed a mechanism which requires a single correction of the moon-phase display every 122.6 years. By way of comparison, a classic moon phase will already be one day out after two and a half years.
RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR "TERRALUNA"
Whichever side is on view, this new Richard Lange timepiece elicits admiration. On the front, a regulator dial showing hours, minutes and seconds, perpetual calendar and power reserve in an aperture; on the back, an orbital moon-phase display which also shows the position of the Moon in relation to the Earth and Sun… this is the art of watchmaking from Saxony at its very finest. As ever, there are to be no concessions regarding precision, with a movement that includes a constant-force escapement.
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL
12 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Andreas Strehler
Movement | hand-wound with patented remontoir d’égalité, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 78-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, "perpetual" moon phases
Dial | silvered
Case | 18k rose gold, 41 x 47.20 mm, 10 mm high
SAUTERELLE À LUNE PERPÉTUELLE
To quote the judges of the Prix Gaïa, Andreas Strehler conceives his minimalist movements like living organisms; no doubt why in 2013 he took the award in the Artisanat-Creation category. Equally remarkable, this timepiece offers the most precise moon phase ever built. Comprising just four parts, it requires manual adjustment of one day every 14,189.5383 years. Based on the Sauterelle, its mechanism includes Strehler's patented remontoir d’égalité which delivers a constant supply of energy to the escapement.
TECHNICAL
13Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Armin Strom
Movement | hand-wound ARM09-S skeleton calibre, 146 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator
Dial | sapphire with founded appliques
Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 43.40 mm ø, 13 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
ONE WEEK SKELETON
This One Week Skeleton is the realisation of Armin Strom's longstanding dream to produce a skeleton entirely in-house, and in the grand tradition of the brand. The barrel springs, visible through the winding wheels, the blued small seconds hand, and the bridge cut-outs echo earlier creations. The decoration afforded to the parts combines aesthetic with functionality in a rarely achieved harmony. Limited edition of 50.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 2385 calibre, 26.20 mm ø (11½ lines), 5.50 mm high, 304 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chrono-graph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters
Dial | diamond-paved, silvered counters, applied hour markers
Case | 18k rose gold, fully diamond-set, sapphire crystal, screwed crown, diamond-set bracelet, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 3126/3840 calibre, 29.92 mm ø (13¼ lines), 7.16 mm high, 365 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chrono-graph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters
Dial | blue with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, silvered counters
Case | stainless steel, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed crown, black ceramic pushers, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH
Audemars Piguet applies the magic of precious stones to a generously sized sports watch. Each of the rose gold surfaces, from the case to the lugs, from the dial to the bracelet, have been paved with diamonds: a total of 966 stones, graded IF, for approximately 7.9 carats. Driven by a mechanical movement, this timepiece is resolutely aimed at the growing ranks of women for whom a watch can be nothing but mechanical.
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH
Audemars Piguet trains the spotlight on the Royal Oak Offshore, a style that made its debut in 1993. This year it comes as six new versions with a more sculpted aesthetic and a design that emphasises technique, evidenced by the crown-guard, and the ceramic crown and pushers. A variant of the Navy, this model from the new collection stands out for its royal blue dial and rubber strap with contrasting orange chronograph hands.
14 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Audemars Piguet
WOMEN'S CLASSICDESIGN
15Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Audemars Piguet
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture tourbillon 2930 calibre, 35.60 mm ø (15¾ lines), 9.90 mm high, 291 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 10-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, 24-hour GMT display, day/night indication, function selection
Dial | openworked, tourbillon and GMT bridges in black anodised aluminium, upper bridge in white ceramic, inner bezel in black anodised aluminium
Case | titanium, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, white ceramic pusher, water-resistant to 100 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 3120 calibre, 26.60 mm ø (11¾ lines), 4.26 mm high, 280 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, centre seconds, date, dive time
Dial | light silver-toned with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, light silver-toned inner rotating bezel with diving scale and zone from 60 to 15 minutes in blue
Case | white ceramic, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, titanium links, water-resistant to 300 metres
ROYAL OAK CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON
After a 2011 version with titanium case paired with a bezel, crown and pusher in black ceramic, the Tourbillon Royal Oak Concept GMT intro-duces a chromatic change. This new Royal Oak Concept, which debuted in 2002 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this iconic Audemars Piguet watch, opts for a bezel, crown and pusher in white ceramic. This same ceramic also finds its way into the movement, in the hourglass-shaped upper bridge.
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER
This new style completes the line-up of Royal Oak Offshore Diver watches, all water-resistant to 300 metres and protected by an anti-magnetic inner case. Audemars Piguet presents a version whose bezel, case, crown and pushers are in white ceramic, even more resistant than black ceramic to make this watch virtually impossible to scratch. The unidirec-tional bezel for calculating dive time is operated by a screw-locked crown at 10 o'clock.
TECHNICAL TECHNICALWOMEN'S DESIGN
16 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding ETA 2671 calibre, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde data
Dial | mother-of-pearl, diamond hour markers (0.06 carat)
Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 30 mm ø, 9.94 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | self-winding ETA 7750 calibre, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph
Dial | satin-finish silver sunburst and snailed
Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, 14.95 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
CLIFTON 30 MM
Introduced in 2013, the Clifton collection takes its style cue from a 1950s watch. Joining the range this year are models with a 30 mm case. The silver-toned dial displays the date in an aperture. Gold-toned numerals and hour markers, along with the steel link bracelet, make this a lively and at the same time classic design.
CLIFTON CHRONOGRAPH
A new addition to the Clifton family, this chrono-graph is driven by a Swiss-made, self-winding mechanical movement with an established reputation as a hard-wearing, reliable calibre. As well as the chronograph indications, day and date are displayed in a double aperture. Elegant and cosmopolitan, this is a precision timepiece on which time has no hold.
Baume & Mercier
WOMEN'S DESIGN
17Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Baume & Mercier
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture ValFleurier P591 tourbillon calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, flying tourbillon
Dial | silvered opaline
Case | round, 18k red gold, sapphire back, 45.5 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | self-winding SOPROD 9094 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day, retrograde date, power-reserve indicator
Dial | satin-finish silver sunburst
Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, 12.05 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
CLIFTON 1892 FLYING TOURBILLON
An exceptional timepiece in a limited edition of 30, this watch is driven by a hand-wound calibre, regulated by a flying tourbillon and produced by Manufacture ValFleurier. Superlative finishing and the fact that each movement is assembled from start to finish by the same watchmaker are signs of masterful craftsmanship. Known for its complex execution, the flying tourbillon allows a clear view of its cage as it rotates once a minute, unobstructed by any bridge.
CLIFTON RETROGRADE DATE
The star of the 2014 launches, this watch confirms Baume & Mercier's determination to give horophiles a complication watch that is both functional and affordable. The generous size leaves ample room for hours, minutes and seconds, while the harmo-nious arrangement of the different indications adds to legibility.
TECHNICALTECHNICAL DESIGNDESIGN
18 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Beat Haldimann
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture H.Zen-C calibre, flying tourbillon with three drums, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency
Functions | central one-minute flying tourbillon, minute repeater, auxiliary dial for setting the time on the back
Dial | black
Case | platinum, sapphire back, 39 or 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
H3 CENTRAL FLYING TOURBILLON AND MINUTE REPEATER
True to form, Beat Haldimann confounds expec-tations with the H3, the first watch to combine a central flying tourbillon, a feat in itself, with a minute repeater. There is to be no "reading" the time - hands are conspicuous by their absence. Instead, hours and minutes are counted in chimes. In an additional refinement, an auxiliary dial on the back allows the wearer to correctly set the repeater mechanism and thus rest assured that the chiming melody corres-ponds to the time that governs our days.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
19Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Blancpain
Movement | self-winding 225L calibre, 281 parts, 120-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute flying carrousel, date
Dial | white Grand Feu enamel
Case | 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 12.74 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding 5939A calibre, 379 parts, 32 mm ø, 7.25 mm high, 192-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 8-day perpe-tual calendar, with date, day, month and leap year indication, moon phases
Dial | Grand Feu enamel
Case | 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 13.5 mm high, water-resis-tant to 30 metres
VILLERET CARROUSEL MOON PHASES
Blancpain's two iconic complications are brought together for the first time, and in the splendid company of a Grand Feu enamel dial. Long overshadowed by the tourbillon, Blancpain restored the carrousel to the spotlight in 2008 when it unveiled the first ever flying carrousel to perform a one-minute rotation. This mechanical prowess returns alongside a moon-phase complication. A serpentine hand points to the date around the circumference of the dial.
VILLERET 8-DAY PERPETUAL CALENDAR
This perpetual calendar displays its functions with a pleasing symmetry that recalls the pocket watches of days gone by. Blancpain's new self-winding movement keeps track of the varying lengths of the month and of leap years without any need for adjustment until 2100. Calendar indications and moon phases are easily adjusted by means of correctors which, concealed under the lugs, are invisible on the wrist.
TECHNICALTECHNICAL CLASSICCLASSIC
20 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Blancpain
Movement | self-winding 242 calibre, 243 parts, 30.60 mm ø 6.10 mm high, 288-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon
Dial | Grand Feu enamel
Case | platinum, 42 mm ø, 11.65 mm high, water-resis-tant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding F385 calibre, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, date
Dial | black
Case | black ceramic, 43.60 mm ø, 15.25 mm high, unidi-rectional black ceramic bezel with ceramic insert and Liquidmetal® hour markers, water-resistant to 300 metres
VILLERET 12-DAY ONE-MINUTE FLYING TOURBILLON
Twenty-five years after the launch of Calibre 25, then the first and thinnest flying tourbillon on a self-winding wristwatch, Blancpain returns to this complication which it endows with greater autonomy. A single barrel guarantees the excep-tional 12-day power reserve of this self-winding tourbillon, whose cage has been enlarged to allow a clear view of the balance and escape wheel design.
BATHYSCAPHE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
New to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection, this flyback chronograph resets and instantly restarts at the push of a button. The new mechanism incorporates a silicon balance spring whose anti-magnetic properties dispense with the need for a Faraday cage.
TECHNICAL CLASSICTECHNICAL CLASSIC
21Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Boucheron
Movement | self-winding
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white, blue sapphire cabochon
Case | rectangular, steel, 42 x 24 mm
Movement | self-winding Girard-Perregaux Manufac-ture GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | sea-urchin design composed of six double gadroons, set with diamonds and 19 lacquered white gold cabochons in three different sizes in a bezel setting. The rest of the sea-urchin is set with sapphires in a gradient of blue. Total of 355 stones
Case | 18k white gold, non gem-set, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 11.90 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
REFLET L
Boucheron returns to one of its iconic watches, first imagined in 1947. In this new, larger interpre-tation, delicately polished vertical gadroons soften the geometric case. The hour marker at 12 on the white dial is symbolised by a blue sapphire. A self-winding mechanical movement drives the hour and minute hands.
ÉPURE OURSIN
Boucheron gives another lesson in rare crafts with its Épure d'Art watches. Timekeeping functions, courtesy of a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture calibre, are pared to the strict essential, leaving pride of place to gold and marquetry, a work reminiscent of Florentine cabinets of the Renaissance. The sea-urchin dial of this Épure d’Art Oursin is paved with white diamonds, blue sapphires and lacquered gold cabochons.
DESIGN DESIGN
22 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Boucheron
Movement | self-winding Manufacture Girard-Perregaux GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | marquetry of white mother-of-pearl on a bed of diamonds. The mother-of-pearl is positioned at different angles to catch the light and create an impres-sion of volume
Case | 18k white gold, diamonds, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 11.90 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
ÉPURE D'ART FLEUR DE JOUR
This watch from the Épure d’Art collection is a composition of light and structure, thanks to the flower that fills its dial. Each petal is crafted from white mother-of-pearl and set on a bed of diamonds, with more diamonds around the bezel. The finished piece is a shimmering celebration of the métiers d'art.
DESIGN
23Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Bovet 1822
Movement | hand-wound openworked Virtuoso II calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve
Dial | skeleton, black or white lacquer for the offset hours and minutes
Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 9.10 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | hand-wound Virtuoso III tourbillon calibre, 656 parts, 38 mm ø, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, day, month, retrograde date, leap year cycle indicator, power-reserve indicator, reverse hand-fitting
Dial | lacquered white or black, openworked
Case | convertible Amadeo with secret opening, 18k red or white gold, 46 mm ø, 18.30 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
RÉCITAL 12 « MONSIEUR DIMIER »
Bovet 1822 presents its first ever movement to be entirely designed and manufactured in-house and which is not regulated by a tourbillon. A full five years of development preceded its debut inside the Recital 12 Monsieur Dimier where the magic of this calibre is revealed, in particular the wheels, balance and triple seconds hand. Two symmetrical openings allow a view of the power reserve and a segment of the barrel which guarantees seven days of autonomy. Limited edition of 150 for each colour of the gold case.
AMADEO FLEURIER TOURBILLON VIRTUOSO III
Bovet 1822 completes its collection of "useful" grandes complications with this Virtuoso III whose timekeeping functions, rendered perfectly legible on both sides by reverse hand-fitting, combine with a retrograde perpetual calendar, all regulated by a one-minute tourbillon. The movement finish is on a par with these superlative mechanics. Every surface of the bridges and plates has been hand-engraved with the Fleurier pattern, a detail collectors will parti-cularly appreciate. Limited edition of 39 for each colour of the gold case.
TECHNICAL TECHNICALDESIGN DESIGN
24 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Bovet 1822
Movement | self-winding 13BA08-R calibre, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute counter, power-reserve indicator
Dial | anthracite, black, blue or rhodium-plated
Case | convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
BOVET BY PININFARINA "SERGIO"
The Bovet by Pininfarina collection made its debut in 2010 at the same time as the convertible Amadeo case, and has already encompassed three tourbillons (Ottanta, Ottantadue, Ottantatre) and a chronograph (Cambiano). This latest addition takes inspiration from the bodywork of the "Sergio" Ferrari, designed by Italy's renowned Pininfarina design company and named in honour of Sergio Pininfarina who chaired the family firm for 40 years. The dial of this split-seconds chronograph offers ideal legibility with the additional feature of four recessed areas. Limited edition of 250.
AMADEO FLEURIER 36 "MISS AUDREY"
The Amadeo Fleurier collection welcomes the arrival of a 36 mm diameter model in steel. Introduced in 2010 across the range, the Amadeo case converts effortlessly from a wristwatch to a table clock or a pendant watch, without any need for tools. The Amadeo system was further miniaturised for the "Miss Audrey" watch without compromising its perfect functioning. The dial of this new timepiece comes to life in pastel shades of turquoise or purple.
Movement | self-winding 11BA13 calibre, 26 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | guilloché and lacquered with four diamond hour-markers
Case | convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, bezel set with 60 round diamonds (0.68 carat), bow set with 43 round diamonds (0.21 carat), 36 mm ø, 11.25 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
DESIGN WOMEN'SDESIGN
25Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Breguet
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 558QP2 calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon axis, perpetual calendar with day, month, leap year and retrograde date
Dial | 18k rose gold, silvered and hand-guilloché with four different patterns
Case | 18k rose gold, fluted caseband, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 591A calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | 18k gold, silvered and hand-guilloché
Case | 18k white gold, fluted caseband, bezel and lugs set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.606 carat), sapphire back, 33.50 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR 3797
Joining the perpetual calendars already in the Classique collection, this new version is fitted with the Calibre 3797 which emphasises intuitive reading of the many timekeeping and calendar indications. To achieve this legibility, Breguet has played on different depths, lifting the hours and minutes chapter to the foreground in order to highlight this essential display. A second look takes in each of the remaining indications.
CLASSIQUE DAME 9068
From its very beginnings, Breguet has taken care to imagine timepieces specifically for women. Rather than simply adding precious gems to existing designs for men, in Breguet's day the company was already crafting mechanical watches for its female admirers. Carrying on in this vein, its collections continue to propose timepieces of similar ilk, with qualities such as a slender case, uncluttered dial or delicate gem-setting. The Classique Dame 9068 is a perfect example.
DESIGN WOMEN'S CLASSIC
26 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Breguet
Movement | self-winding 586 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | natural mother-of-pearl set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.02 carat)
Case | 18k white gold, bezel and caseband set with 146 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.848 carats), inner bezel set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.132 carat), frills set with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.07 carats) in a snow setting, 11 baguette diamonds (0.35 carat) and 2 cushion-cut sapphires (0.59 carat), crown set with a briolette diamond (0.28 carat), lugs set with 61 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.478 carat) in a snow setting, sapphire back, 33 x 24.95 mm
LES VOLANTS DE LA REINE
Breguet's watchmakers have frequently looked to details from period costumes when creating their jewellery timepieces for women. This year the Manufacture captures in a jewelled watch the charm of the bows and frills that adorned the gowns worn by Queen Marie-Antoinette of France, Breguet's first female customer. Les Volants de la Reine is a fitting tribute to such finery.
WOMEN'S DESIGN
27Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Breitling
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, 24 time zones on the ratcheted rotating bezel
Dial | Royal Ebony or Tungsten
Case | titanium, sapphire back, 49 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling 01 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, tachymeter scale on the inner bezel
Dial | Onyx Black or Sierra Silver
Case | steel, ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel, 41 or 44 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres (41 mm) or 500 metres (44 mm)
BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04
"Bentley" for the quintessential British car. "GMT" for the innovative dual time-zone adjustment system. "Light Body" for the featherweight titanium case. "B04" for the Manufacture calibre, entirely developed and produced in the Breitling workshops. A model of functionality, this travel chronograph is distinguished by its ease of use: simply pull out the crown and turn it forwards or backwards to adjust the time zone in one-hour increments without losing any precision in minutes. The date automatically adjusts to local time, in both directions.
CHRONOMAT 44 AIRBORNE
Breitling marks the 30th anniversary of its Chronomat with a special series that combines a technical look with the performance professional users expect. In the early 1980s, the company learned that the Italian airforce's aerobatics team, Frecce Tricolori, was inviting proposals for its official watch. Breitling responded with a completely new aviation chrono-graph that was tailor-made to meet pilots' needs. The elite team was won over by this original, functional and stylish timepiece, and in 1983 the Frecce Tricolori official watch took to the skies. The following year, the Chronomat joined the brand's regular collection.
TECHNICALCLASSIC
28 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Breitling
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, tachy-meter scale, slide rule on the rotating bezel
Dial | black or Mercury Silver
Case | steel or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 48 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
NAVITIMER GMT
Breitling enters a new chapter in the life of its famed Navitimer aviation chronograph with a reinterpre-tation of the classic watch in a larger size, and a travel version designed for ease of use. Proposed with an impressive 48 mm diameter, this new GMT model is equipped with the B04 calibre. The second time zone is set forwards or backwards simply by turning the crown, without losing track of minutes or 24-hour local time. The date automatically follows.
CLASSIC
29Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Bulgari
Movement | self-winding B77calibre, 77 parts , 26.20 mm ø, 3.60 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | black, sunray guilloché
Case | steel, 18k rose gold bezel, 18k rose gold crown with a pink cabochon stone set with a diamond, bracelet with alternating 18k rose gold and steel links, 33 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture calibre with detent escapement, constant-force device and minute repeater, 516 parts, 38 mm ø, 9.38 mm high, 14,400 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, Westminster chimes minute repeater with four hammers and gongs
Dial | made from a gold plate with openings to show the detent escapement, hammers and gongs
Case | 18k rose or white gold, repeater slide at 7 o'clock, sapphire back, 50 mm ø, 14.09 mm high
LUCEA
Bulgari illuminates a woman's wrist with Lucea whose name is derived from lux and luce, the Latin and Italian words for "light". This new creation commands admiration with an ageless elegance coloured by the brand's style signatures. A round case and supple construction are matched by the Serpenti-inspired bracelet. Hinting at Bulgari's jewellery origins, a warm pink cabochon gem clinches the crown, adorned in its centre with a solitaire diamond. Indeed, Lucea has no need for further embellishment; in its most pared-down version, it is already a classic.
AMMIRAGLIO DEL TEMPO
Four hammers and gongs, a minute repeater and Westminster chimes, and still the inventory of functions proposed by Ammiraglio del Tempo goes on, as this new timepiece also equips its sophis-ticated striking mechanism with an innovative repeater slide. In addition, this new grande complication from Bulgari is presented with a detent escapement and a constant-force device, a regulating organ which represents the highest level of complexity in watchmaking. Limited edition of 20 in 18k rose gold and limited edition of 10 in 18k white gold.
TECHNICALDESIGNWOMEN'S
30 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Bulgari
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white mother-of-pearl
Case | 18k rose gold case and bracelet, 286 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.67 carats), 8 rubellites and 8 amethysts
Movement | extra-thin, hand-wound Manufacture Finis-simo calibre, 249 parts, 32.60 mm ø, 1.95 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon
Dial | polished black lacquer
Case | platinum, 40 mm ø, 5 mm high
DIVA
The Diva watch is proud to proclaim its origins in the jewelled values that founded the House of Bulgari. A reference to the golden age of silver-screen legends, it embodies the Dolce Vita days when Bulgari was inseparable from the world of film. The collection embraces multiple combinations of stones in every colour. The epitome of feminine charm, it plays on the modular geometric designs explored in the jewellery collection of the same name.
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON
Bulgari has created nothing less than the world's thinnest flying tourbillon watch in a movement that measures a mere 1.95 mm high. Innovative solutions made possible this quest for ultimate thinness. Firstly, ball bearings are used to pivot the moving parts. The regulator assembly has also been omitted to gain vital millimetres. Timing is instead adjusted directly on the balance wheel. The barrel is held in position and guided by three peripheral ball bearings. This solution allowed Bulgari to double the height of the mainspring for a power reserve of 55 hours.
WOMEN'S DESIGN TECHNICAL
31Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Cartier
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 9459 MC calibre, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with circular display
Dial | silvered
Case | round, platinum, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Cartier 049 calibre
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | 18k rhodium-plated white gold and 18k rose gold, floral and onyx marquetry, emerald eye
Case | round, 18k rhodium-plated white gold, 124 round diamonds (1.80 carats), crown set with a cabochon blue sapphire, 42 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROCALENDAIRE
Carrying on from the Rotonde de Cartier Astroré-gulateur and Astrotourbillon, this watch transforms its dial into an amphitheatre where a perpetual calendar takes centre-stage. Set out in concentric tiers, this innovative display resolves many of the difficulties inherent in displaying simultaneously and legibly the month, day and date, and leap or ordinary year. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, the Astrocalendaire is driven by Cartier's in-house 9459 MC calibre with flying tourbillon.
BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER FLORAL MARQUETRY PARROT
This limited edition of 20 brings to light a craft never before seen in watchmaking: floral marquetry. Authentic, coloured flower petals are meticulously cut into the desired shape using a marquetry scroll saw. These tiny pieces become a living, precious mate-rial, here transformed into the parrot's exuberant plumage. Onyx, emerald, diamonds and miniature painting complete this stunningly lifelike tableau.
DESIGNDESIGN TECHNICAL
32 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Cartier
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 1904 MC calibre, 25.6 mm ø, 4 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Dial | black, partially snailed
Case | round, rhodium-plated white gold, 18k rose gold, unidirectional bezel in 18k rose gold coated with ADLC, crown set with a facetted sapphire, 42 mm ø, 11 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres
Movement | Cartier 056 quartz calibre
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | mother-of-pearl, flinqué
Case | round, 18k rose gold set with diamonds (0.70 carat), 24 mm ø, crown set with a diamond (0.20 carat), water-resistant to 30 metres
CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER
Introduced in 2010, the Calibre de Cartier now lends itself to a dive version that is water-resistant to 300 metres. Each watch complies with ISO 6425 requi-rements and has been tested according to the eight obligatory criteria for a dive watch as prescribed by this international standard. Equipped with a unidi-rectional rotating bezel, it is also one of the thinnest mechanical dive watches on the market.
BALLON BLANC DE CARTIER
The coveted Ballon de Cartier case reinvents itself as a sumptuous jewel-watch. The pebble shape remains true to the Ballon spirit, while the Roman numerals make a small detour from their circular route to make room for a solitaire diamond. The sinuous white gold bracelet is set with diamonds for a total of 9.35 carats.
TECHNICAL WOMEN'S DESIGN
33Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Chanel
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, moon phases
Dial | satin-finish opaline or black (without diamonds), guilloché opaline or black (63 diamonds on the dial, 54 diamonds on the bezel), aventurine moon-phase dial
Case | case and bracelet in black or white high-tech ceramic, 38 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
J12 MOONPHASE
Unlike the conventional moon phase complication which is displayed in an aperture, moon phases on the J12 Moonphase come to life on a deep blue aventurine disc that is spangled like a summer night sky. Positioned at 6 o'clock, it shows the four main phases of the moon: new moon, first quarter, full moon, last quarter. A serpentine hand in polished steel indicates the current phase while an additional hand points to the date.
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date by hand
Dial | guilloché, black or opaline
Case | 18k beige gold, 36.50 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
J12 - 365
While its spirit is unchanged, recognisable in the round case, serrated bezel, Arabic numerals and crown-guard, this new J12 has refined its look to reflect a distinctly feminine sensibility. Notable features include the smaller, 36.5 mm diameter (hence the name), the diamonds which move from crown to bezel, and the slender case which accom-modates a self-winding movement. A serious alternative to the original J12 with its more sports-styled 38 mm case. Four of the eight renditions have a case in 18k beige gold, an exclusive alloy developed by Chanel.
TECHNICALWOMEN'S TECHNICAL
34 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Chanel
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | black, embroidered
Case | 18k white gold set with 562 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.07 carats), 37.50 mm ø, 9.84 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | mat black with 5 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.11 carat) and 5 navette-cut yellow sapphires (0.09 carat), 23k gold engraved camellias
Case | 18k white gold, bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 carat), 37.50 mm ø, 9.85 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ WITH EMBROIDERED CAMELLIA
Since 1924, Maison Lesage has created elaborate embroidery embellishments for haute couture and ready-to-wear, each of which requires hours of work and consummate expertise. Now and for the first time, this talent lends itself to watch dials. Each embroidered pattern is unique and can only be created through precise and meticulous gestures. The dial of this watch has been hand-stitched with a camellia, Gabrielle Chanel's favourite flower, using coloured silks and the "needlepoint painting" technique. Limited edition of 18.
MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ GOLD CAMELLIA
The Mademoiselle Privé jewellery watch collection spotlights the symbols which Gabrielle Chanel most cherished, and the objects that were a part of her life: a glimpse of Mademoiselle in private. Once again this year, Chanel uses this collection to pay homage to the métiers d’art, specifically engraving and chasing. Accordingly, the flowers that adorn the gem-set dial of this Gold Camellia watch are crafted from hand-polished, hand-engraved 23k yellow gold.
WOMEN'S DESIGN WOMEN'S DESIGN
35Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Chopard
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding chronograph, 37.20 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date in an aperture, chronograph with yellow centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Dial | silvered, snailed
Case | beadblasted titanium, steel bezel with black aluminium insert, 44.5 mm ø, 13.9 mm high, water-resis-tant to 100 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 02.16-L calibre with COSC and Poinçon de Genève certifica-tion, 29.70 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, Quattro four-barrel technology delivering a 9-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the one-minute tourbillon
Dial | snow-set diamonds, diamonds on the tourbillon bridge, 7 moving diamonds
Case | 18k white gold with diamonds, bezel set with 36 trapeze-cut diamonds, crown set with baguette diamonds and one briolette diamond, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 15.09 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE CHRONO
In 2014 and for the seventh time in a row, Chopard was the official timekeeper and sponsor of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, an event which Chopard traditionally celebrates with the issue of an original timepiece. This year the Maison has chosen to develop a complete new collection, the centrepiece of which is the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chrono. This model, with its revisited design and larger, mat titanium case, a new yellow colour scheme and perforated strap, is expressly designed for the racing circuit and as a tribute to vintage Formula 1.
HAPPY SPORT TOURBILLON JOAILLERIE
Chopard introduced its Happy Sport, matching steel with diamonds, in 1993. The first mechanically-driven version came in 2013 to mark the 20th anniversary of the collection. One year later, the Manufacture takes another step forward with the addition of a one-minute tourbillon which draws energy from Chopard's very own Quattro technology, thus ensuring a full nine days of power reserve. Certified by the Poinçon de Genève, this Happy Sport Tourbillon resides in a jewelled case as a reminder of the company's gemmological expertise.
CLASSIC DESIGNTECHNICAL
36 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Chopard
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 02.13-L1 calibre with COSC, Poinçon de Genève and Qualité Fleurier certification, 224 parts, 29.70 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, Quattro four-barrel technology delivering a 9-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon, power-reserve indicator
Dial | ruthenium, satin-brushed sunray
Case | 18k Fairmined gold, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, 11.15 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 63.01-L calibre, COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, 38 mm ø, 5.50 mm high, 21’600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial | white, porcelain-type
Case | 18k rose gold or platinum, sapphire back, 44 mm ø, 11.50 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
L.U.C TOURBILLON QF FAIRMINED
This nine-day tourbillon is the first timepiece for which Chopard has worked with Fairmined gold, a certification which guarantees the gold was mined in a responsible way and that the miners receive fair payment for their work, thus proving that this precious metal can be sustainably extracted. The watch trains the spotlight on the ongoing partnership between Chopard and Alliance for Responsible Mining, the South American NGO behind the Fairmined standard. It has also been submitted to testing by the Fleurier Quality Foundation. This independent body, which marks its 10th anniversary in 2014, is unique in the scope of its testing and certification is reputed extre-mely difficult to obtain. Limited edition of 25.
L.U.C 1963
To mark the milestone of the Scheufele family's 50th anniversary at the head of Chopard, the Manufacture presents the L.U.C 1963, a watch with great emotional content and a natural descendant of the great chronometers of the past. It comes as a tribute to watchmaking's technical and aesthetic genius, and to the high-precision timing to which Chopard remains committed. Indeed, Chopard submits many of its chronometers for certification by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) and is one of the main beneficiaries of the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. The L.U.C 1963 has been certified by both these bodies. Limited edition of 50 in rose gold and limited edition of 50 in platinum.
CLASSICTECHNICAL
37Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Christophe Claret
Movement | self-winding Manufacture PCK05 calibre, 665 parts, two barrels, four ball bearings including one double, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, Texas Hold'em poker game with chime, roulette wheel, patented cathedral gong
Dial | nickel silver, skeletonised card pattern
Case | 18k white gold and grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment, 45 mm ø, 15.95 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture EMT17 calibre, 731 parts, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, "loves me, loves me not" game, "colours of love" on the rotor
Dial | blue mother-of-pearl, white gold prong set with pear-cut diamonds, Christophe Claret logo in white gold, daisy petals in white lacquer
Case | white gold (palladium alloy) with 68 baguette diamonds (5.20 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds (3 carats), one hexagonal or snow-set diamond between the lugs, 42.50 mm ø, 14.52 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
POKER
Another stroke of technical genius in the vein of the 21 Blackjack and Baccara watches, Poker contains a full pack of 52 cards inside its 45 mm case so that three players can indulge in an authentic game of Texas Hold'em. It can propose 32,768 card combi-nations or 98,304 game plays for three players. True to his reputation as a master of striking watches, Christophe Claret has incorporated his patented cathedral gong which sounds each time a player presses either the flop or turn/river pusher. Four limited editions of 20.
MARGOT
Margot is Christophe Claret's first ever watch especially for women, and answers the eternal question "does he love me?" with petals plucked from a daisy. This unprecedented complication, for which a patent has been filed, is reinforced by chimes. A single press of a pusher and one, perhaps two, petals disappear beneath the dial until a verdict is reached. He loves me… a little, a lot, passio-nately, madly… or not at all. This mechanical magic is brought to light by an association of precious stones, mother-of-pearl and gold. Four limited editions of 20.
TECHNICAL TECHNICALWOMEN'S
38 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Christophe Claret
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture DTC07 calibre, 301 parts, 14,400 vibrations/hour frequency, two parallel-mounted barrels each with two springs, 80-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, constant-force indication
Case | white gold and grade 5 titanium with anthracite PVD treatment, 44 mm ø, 13.59 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
MAESTOSO
This new timepiece, which is equipped with a tradi-tional pivoted detent escapement and constant force, bears testimony to an important aspect of horological history. This type of detent escape-ment first appeared in the eighteenth century and was a common feature of marine chronometers. It is considered as the quintessence of chronometric precision. Transposing such an escapement to a wristwatch is no small feat which Christophe Claret has achieved thanks to a series of complex technical solutions, three of which are patented. Maestoso's two barrels are each fitted with two superimposed springs. They release the energy required by the escapement while optimising the watch's power reserve of more than 80 hours. Three limited editions of 20.
TECHNICAL
39Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Corum
Movement | self-winding skeleton CO 082 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, date
Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 13.30 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres
Movement | hand-wound CO 1008 calibre, 21,600 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, retrograde date by hand, double tourbillon
Dial | anthracite brass with "split pomegranate" pattern, nautical pennants stamped on the inner bezel
Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 14.40 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres
ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 SQUELETTE
Inside the grade 5 titanium case of the Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Squelette beats the self-winding CO 082 calibre with a frequency of 28,800 vibra-tions/hour. This is the first time that the movement, which has a 42-hour power reserve, appears in a fully skeletonised construction with resolutely contemporary finishes. The absence of a dial draws the eye further into these mechanical depths while the transparent date disc adds to the visual effect.
ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE DOUBLE TOURBILLON
A new movement makes its debut in the stylishly sporting Admiral's Cup: the hand-wound CO 1008 calibre. This mechanism features a double tourbillon as well as a retrograde date and an ingenious time-adjustment system. A simple press on the crown-pusher brings the minute hand instantly to the twelfth hour numeral so it can be set at the precise time, up to five minutes before and after a full hour. This CO 1008 calibre resides inside the immediately recognisable twelve-sided case of the Admiral's Cup, imagined in 1960 and redesigned in 2013.
TECHNICALDESIGNTECHNICAL
40 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Corum
Movement | hand-wound CO 113 baguette calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | no dial, sculpted gold dragon around the baguette movement
Case | titanium or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 34 x 51 mm, 10.90 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding CO 082 calibre, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | brass, 120 round diamonds (0.71 carat) and peacock feather
Case | 18k 5N red gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.30 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
GOLDEN BRIDGE DRAGON
Corum introduces the Golden Bridge Dragon to its Bridge collection. The now famous baguette movement merges with a gold sculpture of a dragon which wraps itself around the calibre. It takes a full two weeks to sculpt each of these fabulous creatures in stunningly realistic detail.
FEATHER WATCH
The height of fashion in the nineteenth century, plumasserie (feather ornaments) is no less a symbol of elegance today. Corum chose this métier d'art for two limited-edition timepieces whose dials are decorated with peacock feathers. On one of the two editions, limited to 25 pieces, the dial is framed by 120 round diamonds. The classically sober outline of the case is borrowed from a 1970s Corum design, as are the skeleton dauphine hour and minute hands which are driven by a self-winding CO 082 movement.
DESIGN WOMEN'S DESIGN
41Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
De Bethune
Movement | hand-wound DB2144 calibre, 329 parts, 30 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | jumping hours in an aperture, analogue minutes on a rotating silvered disc, spherical moon phases in the centre
Dial | silvered, hand-guilloché with a barleycorn pattern, De Bethune starry sky in blued and polished grade 5 titanium, encrusted with white gold stars
Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 43 mm ø or 45 mm with the titanium bezel
Movement | hand-wound CB2039 calibre, 410 parts, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph with three central hands, concentric circular second, minute and hour counters, De Bethune silicon/titanium tourbillon with 30-second indication on the movement side
Dial | silvered, curved structure on different levels
Case | 5N rose gold, 5N rose gold cover with invisible hinge, sapphire back, 46 mm ø, 11.70 mm high
DB28 DIGITALE
Finely-crafted, eighteenth-century timepieces such as French Directoire clocks have never ceased to inspire De Bethune. The DB28 Digitale, whose mechanism powers multiple display modes - digital jumping hours, analogue minutes and spherical moon phases, precise to one day every 1,112 years - embodies a contemporary vision of that era's aesthetic. The dial, which has been hand-guilloché with a barleycorn motif, the spherical moon and star-studded sky are all classical references whose arrangement and execution make a very modern statement.
DB29 MAXICHRONO TOURBILLON
The five central hands on this chronograph watch serve to make elapsed times easier to read than on a conventional chronograph display. An important element of the watch's identity, they follow the curves of the dial. They are each crafted from blued steel, except for the chronograph minute hand which is in rose gold. Seconds and minutes are measured on a scale with 60 graduations, hours on a scale of 24. All five hands are mounted on co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system requiring immense technical expertise.
TECHNICAL DESIGN DESIGNTECHNICAL
42 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
De Bethune
Movement | hand-wound DB2144 calibre, 355 parts, 30 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | jumping hours in an aperture, analogue minutes on a rotating disc, spherical moon phases in the centre
Dial | De Bethune spherical moon phases in blued steel and palladium in the centre
Case | polished and blackened zirconium delta curve, 7.5 cm3
DREAM WATCH 5.2
The design of Dream Watch 5.2 owes much to that of its predecessors, whose forms it revisits. The cambered delta shape that is a visual hallmark of De Bethune is present in the bridge, borrowed from Dream Watch 1. The case of Dream Watch 4 is also in evidence, with taut lines pulling against gentle curves. Ultimately, Dream Watch 5.2 is the product of ongoing research into shapes, colours and materials. This version comes cloaked in blackened zirconium, a hard-wearing yet lightweight metal whose black oxidised colour is impervious to humidity and air.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
43Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
de Grisogono
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | lacquered (black or white) or mother-of-pearl (pink, orange, red or black)
Case | steel with PVD treatment or gold (rose or white, with or without gems), gem-set bezel (diamonds, emeralds, spinels, tsavorites, sapphires or amethysts), custom-fit strap made from 20 woven leather cords in different colours
ALLEGRA
Originally a collection of jewellery, Allegra is now also a watch, or more exactly a jewel that gives the time. Indeed, this particular Allegra is as much bracelet as timepiece, and a nod to the day when the stars of the silver screen wore precious watches threaded onto cords. De Grisogono has imagined this new collection as a reminder of that golden era. More than time, Allegra promises to bring joy to women who live life in an allegretto mode.
WOMEN'S DESIGN
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | orange or blue sapphires, emeralds or amethysts
Case | gold, briolette-cut precious stones coordinating with the dial
GRAPPOLI
Clusters of briolette-cut precious stones distin-guish the watches in the Grappoli collection by de Grisogono. They have been set around the case in such a way that they quiver with the movements of the wearer's wrist. The same stones in a snow setting adorn dial and bezel to create an expanse of precious colour, with contrast created by the different volumes.
WOMEN'S DESIGN
44 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
de Grisogono
Movement | hand-wound DG 042 calibre, 651 parts, 38.10 x 34.70 mm, 11.45 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 35-hour power reserve
Functions | analogue hours and minutes (top display), digital second time zone (bottom display) by moving micro-segments driven by 23 cams
Case | Case / luminescent carbon fibre, open back, 56 x 48 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres
MECCANICO DG
With its patented analogue and mechanical-digital dual display for two time zones, the Meccanico dG brings a completely new concept to mechanical fine watchmaking. Premiered in 2008, it returns this year in a revolutionary carbon-fibre case that stores light to then glow like a horological spaceship when darkness falls.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
45Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
DeLaneau
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white gold with 268 diamonds, case included
Case | white gold with diamonds in a cuff bracelet set with 214 cabochon rubies (222.28 carats) and 419 diamonds (5.29 carats), 25 mm ø, 6.85 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | gold, translucent enamel on a hand-guilloché pattern, one navette-cut diamond
Case | rose gold with diamonds, 36 mm ø, 10.33 mm high
GRACE CABOCHON RUBIES
DeLaneau specialises in the creation of exceptional timepieces in very small quantities, a vocation confirmed this year with the Grace collection, which is a celebration of gem-setting. These Fine Jewellery watches are composed of a white gold bracelet which has been completely covered in precious stones surrounding a gem-set dial whose colour is in harmony with these stones. This Grace Cabochon Rubies is adorned with a rare gathering of stones, set over the course of an entire year by a master gem-setter.
RONDO TRANSLUCENT
DeLaneau's watches with translucent enamel dials capture nature's colours through the power of light. Before the translucent enamel is applied, a master engraver decorates each dial with a guilloché pattern. It is then enamelled using the Grand Feu technique to ensure uniform colour and depth while allowing the engraved pattern to refract light to stunning visual effect. Once the required finish has been achieved, a laser pierces a hole in the dial at 12 o'clock for a single precious stone to be set.
WOMEN'S DESIGNDESIGN
46 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
DeLaneau
Movement | mechanical self-winding
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | Grand Feu enamel, diamonds
Case | red gold, 36 baguette diamonds, 288 brilliant-cut diamonds, 42 mm ø
RONDO ICON
An independent brand whose production empha-sises hand-crafting, DeLaneau offers its clients the chance to own a watch that has been made specifically to their requirements. The Rondo Icon illustrates this possibility to perfection using a technique in which the company excels: Grand Feu enamel. Various enamelling skills (miniature painting, cloisonné, champlevé and foil pailloné) have been used in conjunction to produce this timelessly beautiful, polychrome icon. It is set against 302 diamonds which, together with the diamonds adorning the case, illustrate DeLaneau's equally impressive command of gem-setting.
DESIGN
47Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
F.P.Journe
Movement | electro-mechanical 1210 calibre, patented bi-rotor motor, 32,000 Hz quartz frequency, 28.50 x 28.30 mm
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, standby mode after 30 minutes of non-use, automatic time-setting when movement is detected via the oscillating weight, visible on the dial side
Dial | white Superluminova
Case | tortue shape, titanium with rubber inlay, with or without diamonds, sapphire back, 34 x 35 mm, 7.35 mm high
Movement | hand-wound 1412 calibre, 178 parts, 32.60 mm ø, 5.95 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 56-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, one-minute tourbillon on the movement side
Dial | grained silver with engraved filled Roman numerals and hour ring
Case | 18k 4N rose gold and guilloché silver, double back in sapphire and 4N gold or guilloché silver, 40 mm ø, 10 mm high
ÉLÉGANTE
After eight years of research, F.P. Journe presents its first collection of women's watches, by the name of Élégante. The Geneva-based watchmaker has opted for an electro-mechanical movement which provides 10 years of use when worn and 18 years in standby mode. Indeed, the watch is designed to stop when a motion sensor detects that the rotor has been still for 30 minutes. When the mechanics are stopped, a microprocessor continues to keep time, hence as soon as the oscillating weight, visible at 4 o'clock, detects movement, the hands of the Élégante watch take the shortest path to set themselves at the right time. As a further particu-larity, the entire dial is in Superluminova.
HISTORICAL TOURBILLON
In 2013, François-Paul Journe celebrated three decades of his eponymous brand. As a fitting commemoration of this anniversary, at the end of the year he unveiled the Historical Tourbillon in a limited edition of 99. It re-interprets the very first watch ever made by François-Paul Journe, a tourbillon pocket watch, this time in the form of a wristwatch. This "queen of complications" can be admired by opening the hinged case back, a charac-teristic feature of an officer's watch.
TECHNICAL WOMEN'S CLASSICTECHNICAL
48 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Franck Muller
Movement | self-winding FM 0800 calibre, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | black, brushed, raised numerals
Case | Cintrée Curvex, titanium or red gold, 44 x 53.70 mm, 12.80 mm high
Movement | hand-wound 1740 skeleton calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | skeleton
Case | round or Cintrée Curvex, 18k gold or stainless steel
VANGUARD
Sporting a signature Curvex case, the new Vanguard collection from Franck Muller adopts a sleek and stylish dimension. The eye is immediately drawn to the applied raised numerals, which are hand-polished and brushed. Driven by a self-winding movement inside titanium or red gold, the Vanguard is proposed in classic and chronograph versions, all with a distinctly masculine dynamic.
7 DAYS POWER RESERVE SKELETON
Late last year, Franck Muller unveiled its 7 Days Power Reserve in a skeleton version that matches aesthetic with tradition. The 1700 calibre, whose two barrels deliver a 7-day power reserve, has been reworked with particular emphasis on the movement finish, including hand-chamfered bridges. Crafted in a choice of 18k gold or stainless steel, this model comes as two versions with a Cintrée Curvex or round case.
CLASSIC DESIGN
49Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Franck Muller
Movement | hand-wound tourbillon calibre, 447 parts, 34.40 x 41.40 mm, 8.50 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 6-day power reserve without strike, 40 hours with strike
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power-reserve indicator, hour strike in passing, strike on/off indicator
Dial | skeleton
Case | Cintrée Curvex, 18k gold, 43.70 x 59.20 mm, 14 mm high
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | mother-of-pearl, silver, diamonds
Case | 18k gold or stainless steel, bezel set with diamonds
GIGA GONG TOURBILLON
In 2011 Franck Muller released the Giga Tourbillon watch equipped with, as its name implies, the biggest tourbillon on the market, measuring 20 mm in diameter. Now the brand's watchmakers have gone a step further and introduced a new compli-cation to this skeleton watch to produce the Giga Gong Tourbillon. The gong in question strikes the hour to indicate time audibly. Four series-coupled barrels provide a power reserve of six days or 40 hours, depending whether the strike function, which is activated by a pusher, is operating or not.
INFINITY SUNRISE
The new Infinity Sunrise collection expresses Franck Muller's vision of elegance and femininity. The dial, which is crafted in-house, results from a lengthy process whereby the "template" on which the diamonds will be set is cut from a solid silver mass, then adjusted to fit the mother-of-pearl dial. The sparkle of the diamonds, extending outwards like sunrays, is intensified by the shimmering mother-of-pearl. Both a jewel and a watch, the Infinity Sunrise is the epitome of elegance every day.
WOMEN'STECHNICAL DESIGN
50 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Girard-Perregaux
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GP09300-0001 calibre, 317 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, tri-axial tourbillon, power reserve
Dial | anthracite grey, offset silvered dial with Clou de Paris decoration
Case | rose gold, 48 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
TRI-AXIAL TOURBILLON
This new timepiece confirms Girard-Perregaux as a specialist in high-precision mechanisms. As the name suggests, the tourbillon in the Tri-Axial Tourbillon rotates around three separate axes. Incorporated into the sapphire crystal of the dial, a domed sapphire lens surrounds the cage, allowing it sufficient space in which to rotate. The dial is constructed on multiple levels, with hours and minutes on a smaller, offset dial featuring a Clou de Paris design. The power-reserve indicator is positioned for pleasing visual symmetry. Limited edition of ten.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP09400-0001 calibre, 245 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon
Case | rose gold, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
NEO-TOURBILLON WITH THREE BRIDGES
A concept imagined 150 years ago is given a distinctly avant-garde face in this Neo-Tourbillon With Three Bridges. While the original architecture and codes are preserved, the shape of the now skeletonised bridges, the form of the crystal and the heart of the calibre itself have been redesigned with a focus on three-dimensionality. The movement is entirely new and larger than in previous versions.
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL DESIGN
51Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 51Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Girard-Perregaux
Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP03300-0097 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | mother-of-pearl
Case | oval, steel, 64 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.95 carat), 37.84 x 32.84 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP03300-0101 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | onyx
Case | oval, white gold and diamonds, 35.44 x 30.44 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres
CAT’S EYE BLOOM
The coveted Cat's Eye collection welcomes a timepiece with particular feminine appeal thanks to the stylised peonies that blossom on its dial. These delicately executed flowers are crafted to resemble lace. They are set onto the hand-polished, mother-of-pearl dial then finished with a mesh-like overlay. Each of the flowers appears to have been embroi-dered. Instead they are fashioned from seven layers of material which are successively applied to achieve the desired volume and three-dimensional effect.
CAT’S EYE ANNIVERSARY
Girard-Perregaux's iconic women's collection celebrates its 10th anniversary with an explosion of precious stones. Rays dart across the dial, origi-nating not in the centre but at the 9 o'clock position for a visually dynamic effect. As well as resonating with the oval form of the case, this asymmetry allows the rays to be of different lengths to create a dazzling "firework" impression.
DESIGNWOMEN'S DESIGNWOMEN'S
52 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Glashütte Original
Movement | self-winding 91-02 calibre, 38.20 mm ø, 7.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, large date, balance/spring and duplex swan-neck fine adjustment on the dial side
Dial | rhodium-plated with gold appliques
Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.30 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
PANOMATICINVERSE
Successfully introduced in 2008, the PanoInverse was Glashütte Original's first watch to invert the position of certain parts so that the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment could be seen on the dial side. This year the Saxon watchmaker presents a second version, equipped with the self-winding 91-02 precision calibre offering a 42-hour power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds and Glashütte Original's signature panorama date display inside a 42 mm case. Here is a timepiece that matches technical sophistication with an original design and smart functionality.
Movement | self-winding 37-02 calibre, 31.60 mm ø, 8 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with power-reserve indicator, large date, stop seconds, flyback chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter on a subdial, 12-hour counter in an aperture
Dial | ruthenium-plated, sunray pattern, gold appliques
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 40 x 40 mm, 13.50 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
SEVENTIES CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE
Glashütte Original continues to embody high-precision, German mechanical watchmaking which can be traced back to 1845 in the Saxon town of Glashütte. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is the latest addition to the 20th Century Vintage Collection. The brand is renowned for a number of complications, including chronographs, and the new 37-02 calibre, entirely developed and made by Glashütte Original, is the first to be built specifically as a chronograph.
DESIGN TECHNICAL CLASSIC
53Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Glashütte Original
Movement | self-winding 37-01 calibre, 31.60 mm diameter, 8 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with power-reserve indicator, large date, stop seconds, flyback chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Dial | lacquered, grained silver
Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 14 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
SENATOR CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE
Glashütte Original's new 37-01 column-wheel chronograph, developed and built inside its workshops, makes its debut in the Senator Chrono-graph Panorama Date. A landmark in the collection, it borrows the signature, classic lines of the Senator watch and is central to the Manufacture's "Art & Technik" pillar.
TECHNICAL CLASSIC
54 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Greubel Forsey
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GF07 calibre with patented 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°, perpe-tual calendar and equation of time, 570 parts, 37 mm ø, 9.55 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-second tourbillon, bi-directional perpetual calendar with date, day and month, leap year indicator, day/night indication (24h with red zone), power-reserve indicator, function selection, equation of time on the back showing seasons, solstices, equinoxes and current year in four digits
Dial | gold, multiple tiers
Case | white gold, asymmetric convex sapphire crystal, transparent back with asymmetric flat sapphire crystal
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GF01c calibre with patented 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°, 267 parts, 36.4 mm ø, 10.9 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-second tourbillon, power-reserve indicator, tourbillon rotation indicator
Dial | blued titanium, partially set with diamonds, small seconds dial and power-reserve sector in gold
Case | white gold with convex sapphire crystal, transpa-rent back, screwed lugs set with 80 baguette diamonds, bezel set with 60 baguette diamonds
QP À ÉQUATION
When Greubel Forsey "tackles" a complication, it is always with the aim of delivering a result that is both technically and aesthetically accomplished, as once again confirmed by this year's perpetual calendar model. Adjustable in both directions, it incorporates an equation of time and the now famous 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°. The key to this innovation is a coding mechanism which changes the different indications on the front and back of the watch. Simplicity itself to use, this is no less another tour de force from the brand.
TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES CONTEMPORAIN SERTI
For its tenth anniversary, Greubel Forsey showers precious stones on one of its iconic watches: the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain. The sparkle of baguette diamonds - 272 in all for 9.71 carats - on the bezel, lugs and part of the dial illumi-nates the tourbillon as it rotates, while an ocean of blued titanium evokes a maritime mood, with the diamonds suggesting the white caps of waves.
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL DESIGN
Photo of the prototype and not the final version
55Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
H. Moser & Cie
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HMC 327 calibre with hacking seconds, 32 mm ø, 4.40 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 3-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator on the movement side
Dial | fumé red gold, slate or silvered with sunray pattern
Case | 18k red gold, 39 mm ø, 12.50 mm high, sapphire back
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HMC 341 calibre with hacking seconds, 34 mm ø, 5.80 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar with large instantaneous date in an aperture, month by central hand, leap-year cycle indicator on the movement side, power-reserve indicator
Dial | black
Case | titanium with DLC treatment, sapphire back, 40.80 mm ø, 11.10 mm high
VENTURER SMALL SECONDS
The Venturer Small Seconds is first in a new line-up of watches from H. Moser & Cie. Taking its cue from the company's historic pocket watches, the Venturer collection is no less contemporary in style with distinct references to the Bauhaus era. To mark the event, H. Moser & Cie has equipped this debut launch with a new Manufacture movement, the HMC 327, which has been designed to fit closely to the sapphire case back where it can be viewed at leisure. H. Moser & Cie confirms its return, with brio.
ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL CALENDAR BLACK EDITION
H. Moser & Cie instils new life into its perpetual calendar, probably one of the most elegantly under-stated on the market and among the few which can be adjusted forwards and backwards, at any time. The case of this new version is in DLC-coated titanium as a complement to the existing models in gold and platinum. Confirming this more urban, contemporary direction, this new Endeavour watch has a sapphire back through which to admire the mat black finish of the movement whose blackened escapement bridge allows the Moser escapement to shine through.
TECHNICAL CLASSICTECHNICAL CLASSIC
56 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | hand-wound HW4303 skeleton calibre, 381 parts, 40.40 mm ø, 17.30 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours on a disc at 2 o'clock, offset minutes on a disc at 4 o'clock, seconds on the tri-axial tourbillon at 9 o'clock, power-reserve indicator at 11 o'clock
Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 47 mm ø, 21.70 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding HW3502 calibre, 281 parts, silicon balance spring, 32 mm ø, 5.20 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency
Functions | offset hours and minutes, day/night indicator, date in an aperture, movement operating indicator, retrograde hour for the second time zone
Dial | galvanic black, circular satin-finish, central disc with reverse Clou de Paris
Case | Zalium, sapphire back, 42.20 mm ø, 11.60 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
HISTOIRE DE TOURBILLON 5
Since 2009, Harry Winston has pushed the boundaries of the tourbillon, one of watchmaking's major complications. The adventure continues this year with Histoire de Tourbillon 5 whose movement is structured on multiple levels like a mechanical landscape, with a low-lying movement, bridges placed just below the surface, and the tri-axial tourbillon towering over the scene from inside its dome. The skeletonised movement takes further still this idea to totally expose the mechanics behind the tourbillon. So as to counterbalance the extreme lightness of the tourbillon carriages, which rotate in 45, 75 and 300 seconds, a gold bridge was created that would maintain the subtle balance between them, and make this fifth Histoire de Tourbillon a very wearable watch. Limited edition of 20.
PROJECT Z8
Project Z8 is the latest Project Z, a line of watches crafted from Zalium, Harry Winston's exclusive, zirconium-based alloy that is harder than titanium and highly resistant to corrosion. This year's Project Z is a dual-time model distinguished by clearly separated functions and a notable feature concerning the retro-grade dual-time display: while most can only be moved forwards, this one can be adjusted, via the crown, in both directions thanks to the additional clutch system, for faster and easier setting of the second time zone. Limited edition of 300.
Harry Winston
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL DESIGN
57Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Harry Winston
Movement | self-winding HW2201calibre, 214 parts, 26.20 mm ø, 4.47 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds
Dial | rosé champagne, sunray satin finish, 3 brilliant-cut diamond hour markers
Case | 18k rose gold, 91 brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphire back, 39.30 mm ø, 10.40 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | silvered, sunray guilloché, centre set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds in a snow setting (0.17 carat)
Case | 18k rose gold with 47 brilliant-cut diamonds (0,70 carat), 18k rose gold bracelet with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.18 carats), 15.60 x 32.30 mm, 7.80 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
MIDNIGHT DIAMOND SECOND 39MM
Harry Winston has worked with Blancpain to develop certain of its new mechanical watches whose movements include a flat balance spring in silicon. The Midnight collection is an excellent example, with three models including this Diamond Second 39mm. Small seconds reproduce the floral motif of the Lily Cluster jewellery collection and, with each rotation, successively reveal three diamonds in a circular segment. While a tourbillon may draw the eye deeper into the movement, the fascination of seeing the dial brought to life is the same.
AVENUE C MINI ART DECO
The first rectangular watch from Harry Winston, the Avenue collection finds inspiration in the Manhattan skyline. The geometric case of the Avenue C Mini Art Deco is recognisable at a glance. Diamonds sparkle across its delicate proportions, carefully studied to show off the slender lugs.
WOMEN'S WOMEN'S DESIGN
Movement | self-winding Soprod 9351/A10-2 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, large date, second time zone, day/night indicator
Dial | opaline brown with Clou de Paris decoration
Case | titanium with brown PVD treatment and 18k 5N red gold, water-resistant to 30 metres
ORIGINE DESTINATION 04
Until now, Hautlence equipped all its watches with movements that were developed and assembled in-house under the Atelier name. While movement development remains an integral part of its work, the company has always made clear its interest in collaborating with outside partners for certain lines. Now the brand is proposing series-produced models under the Signature label, fitted with exter-nally sourced movements. Destination, driven by a Soprod dual time-zone calibre, is the first line to carry this new label.
58 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Hautlence
DESIGN
59Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Hermès
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | opaline silvered, stamped pattern in the centre
Case | Silver (Hermès' proprietary certified 925 sterling silver alloy) with or without 64 diamonds (1.6 carats), 30 x 33.60 mm, interchangeable straps, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture H1925 calibre, 26 mm ø, 3.70 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, second time zone in an aperture, "hidden hour" function by pushbutton to show the hour hand and second time zone
Dial | opaline silvered, vertical guilloché in the centre
Case | cushion shape, 750 5N rose gold, sapphire back, 40.50 x 38.40 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres
CAPE COD TONNEAU SILVER
A pillar of Hermès' watch collections since 1991, Cape Cod has reinvented itself with infinite elegance, all the while preserving its characteristic roundness and distinctive lugs. New features include a redesigned dial and interchangeable straps for the entire collection. The case of this Tonneau model is proposed in Silver, an exclusive silver alloy which lastingly preserves the unique sheen of this precious metal.
DRESSAGE L’HEURE MASQUÉE
The Parisian firm adds to its Le Temps de l'Imagi-naire collection with a watch that again plays with time: Dressage L'heure masquée. The hour hand is hidden behind the constantly moving minute hand, and appears only when the pusher in the crown is pressed, at the same time revealing a second time zone. When the pusher is released, the hour hand and second time zone disappear again, and time regains an air of mystery. The patented H1925 movement is by Vaucher Manufacture. Limited edition of 500.
TECHNICAL WOMEN'S TECHNICAL DESIGN
60 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding H1837 calibre, 193 parts, 26 mm ø, 3.70 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | millefiori crystal
Case | 750 white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white lacquer, diamond at 12 o'clock
Case | rose, white or yellow gold, with or without diamonds, gold bracelet, leather strap or satin strap, 15.50 mm ø
ARCEAU MILLEFIORI 41MM BLUE
Already in 2013, Hermès unveiled a much-commented showcase for the expertise of Les Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis, which has been producing glass and crystal since 1586 and has been part of the Hermès group since the late 1980s. One expression of the Cristalleries' unique skill is glass paperweights, crafted using a technique known as millefiori. The first of these paperweights were made in the middle of the nineteenth century. For this Millefiori watch, successive layers of crystal are applied to enamel to produce coloured rods, which are sliced into wafer-thin sections then assembled into richly embellished dials.
FAUBOURG
With a diameter of just 15.50 millimetres, the Faubourg d’Hermès watch reduces time to its most essential. Its delicate design has the elegance of a miniature and the discretion of those very special objects that are almost too precious to share.
Hermès
DESIGN WOMEN'S
61Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Hublot
Movement | self-winding Manufacture HUB1260 UNICO calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, central chrono with bi-retrograde minutes and seconds
Dial | black, yellow retrograde minute scale and minute hand, green retrograde seconds scale and seconds hand
Case | round, 18k King Gold, 45 mm ø, carbon-fibre bezel, water-resistant to 100 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HUB8001 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, minute repeater with double cathedral chime
Dial | sapphire
Case | 18k King Gold, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
BIG BANG UNICO CHRONO BI-RETROGRADE FIFA 2014
This is the Official Watch of the 2014 FIFA World Cup, as well as the first Big Bang Unico Chrono Bi-Retrograde. The new, patent-pending movement drives a central, bi-retrograde chronograph. The chrono seconds and minute hands move left to right across a circular arc of 45 minutes (half of a football match) with an area for 15 minutes of extra time giving a total of 60 minutes. Numbered and limited edition of 100.
CLASSIC FUSION CATHEDRAL TOURBILLON MINUTE REPEATER
Hublot's second minute repeater combined with a tourbillon has chosen a sapphire dial to reveal the artistry of its movement in a striking contrast of materials. There is a redesigned time-setting function and a traditional tourbillon inside a 13.6 mm cage. The minute repeater sounds a double cathedral chime.
TECHNICAL DESIGNTECHNICAL
62 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HUB6017 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon
Dial | osmium crystal
Case | black ceramic, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding HUB4700 calibre on a Zenith El Primero base, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 3-hour counter, date
Dial | sapphire
Case | tonneau, titanium, titanium ceramic and 18k King Gold, 51 x 45 mm, water-resistant to 100 metres
CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON FIRMAMENT
Never before seen in watchmaking and exclusive to Hublot, osmium is one of the rarest metals on Earth. As well as having exceptional hardness, it is also the densest and heaviest metal at 22.6 g/cm3, heavier even than platinum. In its compacted, crystallised form, osmium becomes inalterable in air. It brings its distinctive, blue-tinted sparkle to the dial of this new Classic Fusion watch. Osmium is crystallised by means of a highly sophisticated process which takes it to its melting point of 3,033°C, thereby modifying its structure to form osmium crystal.
SPIRIT OF BIG BANG
One of a kind at Hublot, a tonneau case brings its geometric form to this Spirit of Big Bang. The brand's favourite "sandwich" construction enables a fusion of materials. Inside the case beats the new Hublot HUB4700 calibre, redesigned in close colla-boration with Zenith and based on an El Primero chronograph with date. Purists acknowledge this movement as one of the best Swiss chronographs ever made.
Hublot
DESIGNTECHNICAL TECHNICAL DESIGN
63Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
IWC
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 30120 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, central hacking seconds, date
Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system
Case | stainless steel, 42 mm ø, 14 mm high, water-resis-tant to 300 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 80110 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 44-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, central hacking seconds, date
Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system
Case | titanium, 46 mm ø, 20.5 mm high, water-resistant to 2,000 metres
AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC
The new Aquatimer Automatic from IWC makes no secret of its vintage inspiration. The purist dial and dive time scale with 15-minute graduations on the internal rotating bezel recall the very first Aquatimer from 1967, while the narrow, sloping external rotating bezel and the rounded, recessed grips refer back to the Ocean 2000, a 1982 model designed by Ferdinand A. Porsche. The external/internal rotating bezel is an innovative new feature.
AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC 2000
Water-resistant to 2,000 metres, this new Aquatimer is built for professional divers. Like all the new dive watches in IWC's 2014 collection, it comes equipped with the new system of external and internal rotating bezels; the internal bezel can only be turned counter-clockwise as an additional safety guarantee for the diver. A clutch, concealed by a cover at 9 o'clock, transmits the rotation of the external bezel to the interior of the case and the internal rotating bezel, a much easier system than by the crown.
CLASSIC CLASSICTECHNICAL
64 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 89801 calibre, perpetual calendar, chronograph, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, perpetual calendar with jumping mechanism, large date and month, leap year display, flyback chronograph with hours and minutes in a counter at 12 o'clock, centre seconds
Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system
Case | rubber-coated titanium casing ring, external bezel and case back in 18k red gold, 49 mm ø, 19 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 89365 calibre, chronograph, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, date, flyback chronograph with centre seconds and minutes at 12 o'clock
Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system
Case | rubber-coated stainless steel, 44 mm ø, 17 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres
AQUATIMER PERPETUAL CALENDAR DIGITAL DATE-MONTH
IWC's speciality perpetual calendar featuring a large digital date and month with jumping mechanism makes a new addition to the Aquatimer range. The date and month discs are covered with mesh grilles that offer a view of the jumping mechanism. Limited edition of 50.
AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH EDITION "GALAPAGOS ISLANDS"
IWC confirms its commitment to the preservation of the threatened Galapagos Islands with this first edition to be driven by the IWC-manufactured chronograph movement. Part of the proceeds from sales benefit the Charles Darwin Foundation. The mat black rubber coating on the stainless steel case, a particular feature of this watch, is applied in a complex vulcanisation process during which each case is placed in a mould and bonded to the rubber by pressure.
IWC
TECHNICAL DESIGN
65Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 362 calibre with peripheral oscillating weight, tourbillon, minute repeater, 33.3 mm ø, 4.8 mm high, 471 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, flying tourbillon with flying balance, minute repeater reducing silent time lapses between chimes
Dial | silvered, grained
Case | round, 18k extra-white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 7.9 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 757 calibre, chronograph, GMT, 300 parts, 6.27 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 65-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, date, chronograph, movement operating indicator, second time zone with day/night indicator
Dial | semi-mat black
Case | round, ceramic, 46 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
HYBRIS MECHANICA 11 − MASTER ULTRA THIN MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON
The eleventh opus in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin grande complication, this is the thinnest minute repeater ever made with a height of just 7.9 mm. An ingenious system reduces the silent time lapses between chimes. Drawing on eight patents of which six are new, this watch also includes a novel flying tourbillon with a flying balance, a new high-performance balance spring, a peripheral self-winding system and a retractable monopusher. Limited edition of 75.
MASTER COMPRESSOR CHRONOGRAPH CERAMIC
A chronograph and a GMT function with day/night indication cohabit inside the imposing case of this new launch. A patented compression key offers an additional security in terms of water-resistance. The supremely legible dial is cased in ceramic, a material known for its exceptional scratch-resistance. As for the movement, it benefits from the very latest technological innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Limited edition of 500.
TECHNICALTECHNICAL CLASSIC
66 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre 849 calibre, 1.85 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 35-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white Grand Feu enamel
Case | round, 18k white gold, 39 mm ø, 4.05 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 966 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | silvered, guilloché
Case | round, 18k rose gold, diamond-set bezel (0.42 carats), sapphire back, 27.5 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
MASTER ULTRA THIN GRAND FEU
True to the Master Ultra Thin spirit, this new launch highlights the beauty of enamel, one of the oldest crafts in the Manufacture's repertoire of skills. The white gold dial is covered with grand feu enamel, in the purest tradition of this age-old technique which only a small circle of craftsmen still master. It imparts a noble elegance to a watch whose beauty is underscored by simplicity of expression.
RENDEZ-VOUS DATE
Jaeger-LeCoultre's leading lady adopts a new size that will delight the most slender wrists. The rose gold case, which is circled by a diamond-set bezel, encloses the Jaeger-LeCoultre 966 calibre, one of the smallest self-winding movements there is. The subtle ribbing of the finely crafted guilloché on the dial suggests the delicate texture of wild silk.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
CLASSIC WOMEN'SCLASSICTECHNICAL
67Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Jaquet Droz
Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2660Q2.P calibre, silicon balance spring, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, large seconds, date
Dial | ivory Grand Feu enamel on two levels
Case | red gold, 39 mm ø, 12.13 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2663A-S calibre, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, large seconds
Dial | anthracite grey, Côtes de Genève
Case | steel, rubber-moulded crown, 41 mm ø, 10.89 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIÈME IVORY ENAMEL
Three years after its launch in 2011, the Grande Seconde Quantième returns with a dial and a movement that bring new vitality to the codes of Jaquet Droz. In a major evolution, a silicon balance spring and pallet fork with inversed horns have been added to the movement. Insensitive to shock, variations in temperature and pressure, silicon is also immune to the influence of magnetic fields and maintains perfect stability over time. The dial is now double enamelled using the Grand Feu technique.
GRANDE SECONDE SW STEEL
In 2008 Jaquet Droz launched the Grande Seconde SW, a sporting interpretation of its iconic timepiece. This year the line is joined by the first version to measure 41 mm in diameter. The serrated bezel is unchanged while the Côtes de Genève pattern on the dial links this modern watch back to tradition.
CLASSICDESIGN CLASSIC
68 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2653 calibre, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | blue Grand Feu enamel with paillons
Case | 18k red gold, 39 mm ø, 11.52 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
PETITE HEURE MINUTE PAILLONNÉE
An ornamental art originating in the eighteenth century, paillonnée enamel brings aristocratic beauty to this watch. Based on the Grand Feu technique, gold motifs are meticulously applied on blue enamel over the course of successive firings at temperatures approaching 1,000°C. Only a rare few craftsmen still master this technique. The blued steel hands echo the ultramarine dial, while the warm glow of the red gold case reflects the gleaming gold paillons.
Jaquet Droz
DESIGN
69Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
JeanRichard
Movement | self-winding JR60 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | green
Case | titanium with black DLC treatment, 44 mm ø, 12.60 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
Movement | self-winding JR60 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | white, blue hour-markers with luminescent orange coating
Case | aluminium, red case middle, blue case sides, green bezel, 44 mm ø, 12.60 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
AEROSCOPE
In the Aeroscope family, three-hander models are able co-pilots to the chronograph versions. Engraved minutes around the bezel, Arabic numerals, and luminescent hour-markers and skeleton hands make for excellent legibility thanks to which the essence of time – hours, minutes and seconds – can be read at a glance. The new Aeroscope watches come in a variety of dial colours, with a case in natural titanium or titanium with a black DLC coating.
TERRASCOPE
JeanRichard presents a new extension to the range, led by models showing hours, minutes, seconds and date. This colourful version contrasts a vertical satin finish on the flat case middle and sides with a polished finish on the sloping edges. A stylish watch for the urban explorer.
CLASSIC DESIGN
70 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | Manufacture tourbillon calibre, direct-impulse escapement with two escape wheels, 30.50 mm diameter, 6 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency
Functions | offset hours and minutes, seconds on the large one-minute tourbillon, 14 mm tourbillon carriage ø
Dial | blued silver, hand-guilloché
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 28 calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone with day/night indication, adjusted by pushing the crown
Dial | Manual engraving "Swiss Mountain" - day/night indicator in rose gold and white gold, manually engraved
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø
TOURBILLON 6
This limited edition of six brings further confir-mation of master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen's command of his craft, from the new construction of the in-house tourbillon to the outstanding quality of finish applied to each of his timepieces. Apart from the mainsprings, balance springs, jewels, cases and buckles, every single component including dials is produced in-house. Such an uncompromising approach undoubtedly represents the summit of Fine Watchmaking.
VINGT-8 GMT
Kari Voutilainen adds to the range of timepieces fitted with his famous Vingt-8 calibre which incor-porates an additional 70 parts to propose a second time zone with day/night indication on a disc inside the subsidiary seconds. This watch, only a handful of which are made each year, always to order, is a chance for the master watchmaker's atelier to demonstrate its complete command of watchma-king's métiers d'art. On the movement side, the imposing, 13.60 mm balance wheel is prominent at 4 o'clock.
Kari Voutilainen
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL
71Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Louis Vuitton
Movement | self-winding Manufacture LV106 calibre, 218 parts, 37 mm ø, 6.65 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 38-hour power reserve
Functions | world time on discs
Dial | rotating discs with hand-painted city initials
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 9.75 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | opaline silvered, quilted pattern
Case | yellow gold, 23 x 23 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres
ESCALE WORLDTIME
Louis Vuitton offers its personal interpretation of the world time function. The dial is formed by three rotating discs, adjusted via the crown. The external disc, in colour and on two levels, bears the initials of cities around the world. The wearer rotates it until the reference city aligns with the yellow arrow at 12 o'clock. The central disc, which permanently rotates, is divided into two half-circles, one white and one black to differentiate between day and night hours. In its centre is a smaller disc, also in constant rotation, which carries the minutes.
EMPRISE YELLOW GOLD
Louis Vuitton captures a hint of Paris in the Emprise watch. The symmetrical square case, whose horns suggest the corner pieces on a Vuitton trunk, offers a crisp silhouette against the bevelled contours of the double facetted crystal. The strap can be in satin, or in leather embossed with a grosgrain pattern, two references borrowed from the world of couture. The dial of the gold version recreates the quilted fabric used to line the inside of steamer trunks.
TECHNICAL WOMEN'SDESIGN
Louis Vuitton
72 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding calibre
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | sunray opaline silvered, 12 petals in 18k rose gold and diamonds, mother-of pearl Monogram flower in the centre
Case | 18k rose gold, diamond-set bezel, 35 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | Polynesian mother-of-pearl, Dentelle de Monogram pattern
Case | 18k white gold, diamond-set bezel, 30 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
TAMBOUR MONOGRAM INFINI
The design on the dial of the Tambour Monogram Infini, crafted by Louis Vuitton's artisan-dialmakers, originated in the Voyage dans le Temps fine jewellery collection, introduced in 2012, which in turn is a contemporary interpretation of a Tibetan mandala made from Monogram flower petals repeated over and over in an endless circle to symbolise infinity.
DENTELLE DE MONOGRAM WITH POLYNESIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL
Delicacy and refinement define the Dentelle de Monogram watch. Enclosed in a minimalist, white gold case measuring 30 mm in diameter, the dial reproduces the Dentelle de Monogram motif that was introduced with the Voyage dans le Temps fine jewellery collection in 2012. A design that slips effortlessly from jewel to watch, here reinterpreted on Polynesian mother-of-pearl and framed by the sparkle of diamonds on the bezel.
WOMEN'S DESIGN WOMEN'S DESGN
73Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Maîtres du Temps
Movement | hand-wound SHC02.1 tourbillon calibre, 558 parts, 51 x 32 mm, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph with central hand and 60-minute counter, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, one-minute tourbillon, day of the week and moon phases on rollers
Dial | sapphire
Case | titanium, sapphire back, 62.60 x 45.90 mm, 18 mm high
CHAPTER 1 TONNEAU TRANSPARENCE TITANIUM
Maîtres du Temps returns to its Chapter One with this limited edition of 11 in titanium with a sapphire dial. Its vast transparency is a match for this grande complication watch whose movement, the work of Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, lays bare its secrets and a rarely achieved quality of finish.
TECHNICAL
74 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | hand-wound, three-dimensional calibre, 229 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator
Dial | balance wheel suspended above the movement, white lacquered hour/minute and power-reserve subdials
Case | 18k red or white gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, 16 mm high
LEGACY MACHINE 101
Legacy Machine 101 is driven by the very first MB&F movement to have been entirely developed in-house by Guillaume Thévenin, with the help of Kari Voutilainen for the shape and finishing of the parts. Eric Giroud is once again in charge of design. As on LM1, the 14-mm balance wheel of the LM101 hangs majestically from twin arches, allowing a view of the escapement at the same time. As well as its smaller case, the LM101 stands out from its prede-cessors for its more conventional power-reserve indication, shown by a hand on a subdial.
MB&F
TECHNICAL DESIGN
75Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Montblanc
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture MB M16.61 calibre, split-seconds chronograph, GMT, four-minute tourbillon, 436 parts, 38.4 mm ø, 11.9 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours and local hour at 6 o'clock, central minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, day/night indicator at 4 o'clock, monopusher split-seconds chronograph with seconds and split-seconds in the centre, 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, 4-minute tourbillon at 12 o'clock
Dial | 18k gold with applied scales in Grand Feu enamel for seconds, hours, 24-hour display and 30-minute counter
Case | 18k white gold, convex sapphire crystal, sapphire back, 47 mm ø, 18.20 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding mechanical MB 29.14 calibre, moon phases, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, large seconds, date by hand, moon phases
Dial | sunburst silvery white, slightly cambered
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.24 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
COLLECTION VILLERET 1858 EXOTOURBILLON RATTRAPANTE
The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante displays an unprece-dented combination of complications in the finest tradition of Montblanc's Manufacture Montblanc Villeret. First a tourbillon, whose large balance is positioned outside the tourbillon cage. The different time indications, complete with a second time zone, are shown on a regulator dial with central minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, and the hour in both time zones at 6 o'clock. The split-seconds chrono-graph displays centre seconds with minutes at 3 o'clock. Limited edition of 18.
MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE MOONPHASE
With a name that alludes to the fountain pen launched in 1924, and which has since become an icon of the brand, the Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase is Montblanc's supremely classic interpretation of the moon-phase watch. These moon phases are shown at 6 o'clock inside a display that also indicates the date by means of a hand. These new horological master-pieces are distinguished by craftsmanship, timeless design and perfect functionality.
TECHNICAL CLASSIC
76 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding mechanical MB 29.15 calibre, perpetual calendar, moon phases, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with date, day and month by hands, leap-year cycle shown by an arrow inside the month display at 12 o'clock, age and phases of the moon
Dial | sunburst silvery white, slightly cambered
Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.27 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture MB M66-25 calibre, chronograph, two balances, 377 parts, 38.4 mm diameter, 7.63 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency for the time indication, 360,000 vibrations/hour frequency for the chronograph, 100-hour power reserve for the time indication, 45-minute power reserve for the chronograph
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, monopusher chronograph (pusher at 12 o'clock between the lugs) with central 1/100th of a second (1 revolution/second), concentric 60-second and 15-minute counters at 6 o'clock
Dial | sapphire crystal with several functional levels, continually running seconds on a sapphire crystal disc at 9 o'clock, inclined flange with 1/100th of a second scale
Case | material mix of titanium, stainless steel and carbon fibre, sapphire back, 45.6 mm ø, 15.48 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Montblanc gives watchmaking's grandes compli-cations their most classic expression in the new Meisterstück Heritage collection. This perpetual calendar is a perfect illustration, with the harmo-nious arrangement of its different displays within a timelessly restrained design. The 39 mm diameter of the case is further evidence that this collection banishes the superfluous. Every detail has been carefully considered to seduce admirers of a perfectly "measured" measurement of time.
TIMEWALKER CHRONOGRAPH 100
Montblanc is one of the few Manufactures to have accomplished the feat of producing a mechanical chronograph which measures hundredths of a second. This new TimeWalker is equipped with two "hearts": one for the time indication and one for the chronograph whose hand sweeps the dial in one second. Limited edition of 100.
Montblanc
TECHNICALCLASSIC TECHNICAL
77Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Omega
Movement | COSC-certified, hand-wound Master Co-Axial 8511 calibre with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | domed, opaline silvered, Clou de Paris
Case | Omega Sedna gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Co-Axial 3330 calibre with Si14 silicon balance spring, 52-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date with corrector, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, luminescent tachy-meter scale
Dial | grey or mat black
Case | tonneau, stainless steel, satin-brushed and polished, 42.40 x 46.20 mm, water-resistant to 100 metres
DE VILLE TRÉSOR
The De Ville Trésor, a new take on a classic Omega watch from 1949, resides in an elegantly slender, 40 mm case in Omega Sedna gold. A domed sapphire crystal protects an opaline dial, also domed, as are the 18k gold hour markers. Arched minute and second hands complement these curves. The calibre that brings them to life – the Master Co-Axial Chronometer – is inscribed on the dial. It is protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss thanks to breakthrough technology from Omega.
SPEEDMASTER MARK II
1969 was the year of a giant leap for mankind. The astronauts from the history-making Apollo 11 mission had all been issued with Omega Speedmaster Professional chronographs. That same year, Omega presented its Speedmaster Mark II. Its innovative, aerodynamic case housed the hand-wound Calibre 1861 which had already proved its worth inside the famous "Moonwatch". Now in 2014, Omega has revisited the Speed-master Mark II, equipping it with a self-winding movement and a tachymeter scale that can be read in complete darkness. A first for the Speed-master collection.
CLASSICCLASSIC TECHNICAL
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Master Co-Axial 8400 calibre with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds
Dial | black ceramic
Case | case and bracelet in titanium, Sedna gold or bi-colour, black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with Ceragold or Liquidmetal technology, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres
Movement | self-winding Master Co-Axial 8520 calibre with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | white mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond hour markers
Case | bi-colour in stainless steel and yellow gold, or 18k Omega Sedna gold, or smooth stainless steel, polished or diamond-set bezel, 34 mm ø, water-resistant to 150 metres
SEAMASTER 300 MASTER CO-AXIAL
In 1957, Omega released its Seamaster 300, designed specifically for professional divers. Now it returns, with the benefit of the very latest technological developments from the brand. First the outside: the steel version is equipped with a polished black ceramic bezel incorporating a dive scale in Liquidmetal. For the gold versions, Omega has used its patented Sedna alloy of gold, copper and palladium for even greater durability, along with Ceragold technology which bonds gold to ceramic for the bezel. Inside beats the Master Co-Axial 8400 calibre which resists magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.
SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA 150M MASTER CO-AXIAL 34 MM
Omega extends its Seamaster Aqua Terra line with, among others, two versions for women including a 34 mm model. Powered by the Master Co-Axial 8520 movement, it drives home the brand's determination to win over its female customers to the intricacies of mechanical timekeeping. This "engine" is, furthermore, immune to the negative effects of magnetic fields, the focus of Omega's latest technology. After the precision of its co-axial escapement, Omega is investing itself fully in guaranteeing its movements' reliability and stability.
Omega
78 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
CLASSIC TECHNICAL TECHNICAL WOMEN'S
79Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Panerai
Movement | hand-wound mechanical P.3000 calibre, 16½ lines, 5.3 mm high, 160 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 3-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | black, sandwich structure with two plates on each side of a layer of Super-LumiNova®, protected by a Plexiglas® plate
Case | AISI 316L polished steel, 47 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
LUMINOR 1950 LEFT-HANDED 3 DAYS – 47MM
Panerai endlessly demonstrates the pioneering spirit of a brand that equipped the Italian Navy's first combat divers in the 1940s, evidenced by this Luminor 1950 in a left-handed version, meaning the crown and its protection are positioned at 9 o'clock. Left-handed watches such as this are part of Panerai's history, as certain marine commandos preferred to wear their watch on their right wrist and keep their left wrist free for a compass and depth gauge, hence this unusual configuration.
CLASSICAL
80 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Parmigiani Fleurier
Movement | self-winding Manufacture PF310 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Dial | white mother-of-pearl
Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 34 mm ø, 8.65 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture PF359 calibre, minute repeater, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, minute repeater, instanta-neous large date with energy-accumulating mechanism
Dial | silvered
Case | round, 18k white gold, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 14.1 mm high, water-resistant to 10 metres
TONDA METROPOLITAINE
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces Metro, a new collection for 21st-century city life. The lady's watch comes in the lineage of the Tonda 1950, a slimmer design than other Parmigiani watches. The subtle asymmetry of the left and right sides of the case adds a playful touch. Small seconds circle a date window on the white mother-of-pearl dial, while rounded numerals and hour markers stand out in rounded relief.
TORIC RESONANCE 3
While the minute repeater is one of the ultimate complications, here pride of place goes to the large date display, a watchmaking challenge given the imposing size of its discs. Indeed, Parmigiani Fleurier first had to develop a sophisticated mechanism to harness the energy required for them to instanta-neously jump. The dial is designed to draw the eye to this giant-sized date in an aperture whose depth is accentuated by a guilloché pattern.
DESIGN TECHNICAL
81Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Parmigiani Fleurier
Movement | self-winding Manufacture PF701 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | turquoise opaline
Case | round, 18k rose gold, 112 diamonds (1.085 carats), sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 8.4 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
TONDA POMELLATO ROSE GOLD SET TURQUOISE
Sealing the partnership between Parmigiani Fleurier and Pomellato, this watch takes inspiration from the Italian jeweller's Capri collection. The turquoise dial, a feat in itself, takes up residence in a rose gold case that is entirely covered in diamonds. The slender contours of the "sage" hands are in harmony with the applied hour markers in rose gold. An exceptio-nally feminine watch.
DESIGN WOMEN'S
82 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Patek Philippe
82 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H calibre, 456 parts, 33 mm ø, 7.68 mm high, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, chronograph with centre seconds hand, monocounter with 60-minute counter on two concentric scales and 12-hour counter, power-reserve indicator, annual calendar with day, date and month, day/night indication
Dial | ebony or opaline silvered
Case | steel, sapphire back, 40.50 mm ø, 13.55 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS calibre, 370 parts, 28 x 31 mm, 6.95 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 60-minute counter, second time zone, double day/night indication for local and home time, date by a hand
Dial | brass base, black with light to dark gradation, embossed horizontal stripes
Case | steel, sapphire back, 40.5 mm ø, 12.53 mm high, water-resistant to 120 metres
ANNUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH REF. 5960/1A
When Patek Philippe introduced its Annual Calendar Chronograph in platinum in 2006, it also introduced its first self-winding chronograph. This new style instantly made its mark with its monocounter and three large calendar apertures. Further versions followed in platinum and rose gold. Now the Manufacture returns with a new interpretation, Reference 5960/1A, with the A standing for "acier" or steel. A single letter that marks a revolution at Patek Philippe, particularly as this steel model will replace all current versions in platinum and gold.
NAUTILUS TRAVEL TIME CHRONOGRAPH REF. 5990/1A
For close to forty years, the casually elegant Nautilus has enjoyed iconic status, matching first-class functionality with durability inside an original case. The introduction of complications such as date and moon phases has only added to its success, a fact made clear by the first Nautilus Chronograph in 2006. Patek Philippe now enhances the chrono-graph's already vast appeal with the addition of a Travel Time function to display two time zones.
TECHNICAL CLASSICTECHNICAL
83Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Paul Gerber
Movement | Calibre 42 with synchronised triple rotors on an ETA 2824-2 base, 36 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | painted porcelain
Case | 18k red or white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø
ARITA PORCELAIN
Watchmaker Paul Gerber, who is often referred to as the master of miniaturisation, and Japanese porcelain manufacturer Arita have combined their talent to propose a limited edition of watches whose porcelain dials are crafted using ancient techniques. Delicately painted motifs of stylised flowers and creatures embellish each one. Paul Gerber rose to the challenge of creating a floating suspension to prevent these beauti-fully executed dials, a mere 0.60 mm thin, from breaking. All these watches are driven by his Calibre 42 with synchronised triple rotors.
DESIGN
84 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Perrelet
Movement | self-winding Manufacture P-331 calibre, hollowed oscillating weight
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, bidirectional rotating inner bezel, circular slide rule
Dial | black turbine (12 titanium blades), sapphire dial
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 48 mm ø, 13.65 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
TURBINE PILOT
Taking aeronautics as its cue, Perrelet's new Turbine Pilot collection associates the Turbine concept with a circular aviation slide rule. The bidirectional inner bezel is actuated by the crown at 3 o'clock while time is set by an integrated crown at 9 o'clock.
CLASSIC
85Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Piaget
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 900P calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes
Dial | open
Case | round, 18k rose gold, 38 mm ø, 3.65 mm high
Movement | quartz Manufacture 56P calibre
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | black
Case | rotating, 18k white gold, 256 diamonds (2.4 carats), 34 mm ø
ALTIPLANO 38MM 900P
The thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this Altiplano celebrates the 140th anniversary of Piaget and its expertise in ultra-thin watches. A tribute to its 23 extra-thin movements, including the legendary 9P and 12P, and to twelve world records for thinness, this new model fuses movement and case, even using the back of the case as the mainplate. Shaving off vital millimetres, the entire mechanism and hands do not exceed the thickness of the balance, while the offset dial showing hours and minutes is set in the bridges.
LIMELIGHT BLOOMING ROSE
This creation offers a new interpretation of the rose, Yves Piaget's favourite flower whose scent perfumes the history of the brand. Like a rose in first bloom, as the case turns 45° the petals are revealed, first four then eight. This invisible mechanism recalls other Piaget timepieces, such as the Limelight Magic Hour. The black lacquered dial coordinates with the satin strap that is held by a pin buckle set with 13 diamonds.
WOMEN'STECHNICAL DESIGN
Movement | quartz Manufacture 56P calibre
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | silvered
Case | rose-shaped, 18k white gold, 667 diamonds (8.3 carats) and a sapphire (0.4 carat)
PIAGET ROSE PASSION SECRET WATCH
This secret watch by Piaget is a horological gem, paved with diamonds in a snow setting. Each stone is individually cut and adjusted to conceal every millimetre of metal. The white gold petals cluster together to form a sparkling bloom with a sapphire at its centre. The satin strap fastens with a folding clasp set with 40 diamonds.
86 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Piaget
WOMEN'S DESIGN
87Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | modified Valgrange chronograph calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on a disc at 5 o'clock, date in an aperture at 4 o'clock, chronograph with centre seconds, 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter
Dial | multi-layer construction
Case | aluminium-lithium alloy, closed back or sapphire back, 44 mm ø, 13 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
ROADSTER CHRONOGRAPH
Aniceto Jiménez Pita, a self-taught watchmaker with a number of patents to his name, took inspiration from car racing for his Roadster Chronograph. The bullhead case, minimalist dashboard dial, oversized, integrated pushers, and the use of high-tech materials generally reserved for Formula 1 cars in a case that weighs a mere 15 grams set this watch apart. Limited edition of 99 per year.
Pita Barcelona
TECHNICAL DESIGN
Presentation of the model in computer graphics.
88 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Ralph Lauren
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RL430 calibre, 131 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white lacquered
Case | white gold with diamonds, diamond-set bracelet and clasp, 27.50 x 27.50 mm, 5.70 mm high, water-resis-tant to 30 metres
867 DIAMOND
Named after the brand's New York flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue, the Ralph Lauren 867 collection offers a modern interpretation of glamorous Art Deco. This year's Ralph Lauren 867 Diamond is reinterpreted with a diamond-laden bracelet. With its distinctive arabesque-inspired architecture and an abundance of precious stones, this horological gem scintillates in an ocean of more than 400 diamonds.
Movement | quartz
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | white lacquered
Case | white gold with diamonds, diamond-set bracelet and clasp, 23.30 x 27 mm, 6.70 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
STIRRUP PETITE LINK DIAMOND FULL PAVÉ
Stirrup, the iconic Ralph Lauren collection, brings the equestrian world to watchmaking. The new line within the collection, Stirrup Petite Link, with cases measuring just 23.30 by 27 mm, borrows the flowing, feminine aesthetic of a bracelet with inter-locking links. The Diamond Full Pavé model is fully set with diamonds on its case and bracelet for a most precious Fine Jewellery vision of the measu-rement of time.
DESIGNWOMEN'SWOMEN'S DESIGN
89Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Richard Mille
Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture CRMA2 calibre, 29.90 x 22.00 mm, 4.92 mm high, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | open-worked, gem-set
Case | tripartite tonneau, red gold and white ceramic, sapphire back, 45.66 x 31.40 mm, 11.85 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RM19-01 calibre, black sapphires on the mainplate, tourbillon, 30.20 x 28.60 mm, 4.97 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, tourbillon, power-reserve indicator
Dial | open, diamond-set spider
Case | tripartite tonneau, rose gold, diamonds on the bezel, caseband and crown, sapphire back, 46.40 x 38.30 mm, 12.45 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
RM 07-01 LADIES
Richard Mille puts women in the spotlight for 2014. One of the year's new launches, this watch is the mechanical synthesis between Haute Horlo-gerie elegance and the innovative materials the brand so loves. The new skeletonised in-house calibre features a mainplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, in addition to a variable-inertia balance and a variable-geometry rotor. The patented crown construction ensures additional protection against shocks. An openworked dial with diamond-set centre adds a final flourish of exclusivity.
RM 19-01 TOURBILLON NATALIE PORTMAN
Actress Natalie Portman has been a partner to the Richard Mille brand since 2011. This is her first collaboration with the watchmaker, focused on the mystical image of the spider. Accordingly, a spider in rhodium-plated white gold, set with diamonds, forms an integral part of the movement as its abdomen supports the tourbillon bridges while its legs support the two barrels. Visible through the sapphire back, the calibre is assembled on a black rhodium-plated white gold mainplate, set with black sapphires. Limited edition of 20.
WOMEN'S TECHNICALTECHNICAL WOMEN'S
90 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RMUL3 calibre, 30.25 x 28.45 mm, 3.15 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds
Dial | open
Case | tripartite tonneau, NTPT® carbon, 49.94 x 42.00 mm, 14.05 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture CRMA3 calibre, 31 mm ø, 6.67 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | open
Case | round, 18k red gold and titanium, sapphire back, 42.70 mm ø, 11.70 mm high
RM 35-01 RAFAEL NADAL
Rafael Nadal again provides inspiration for a new timepiece which matches the spirit of the legendary RM 027 with a case in NTPT® carbon, a recent break-through by Richard Mille. This distinctive, high-tech material consists of layers of carbon filament, impre-gnated with resin and positioned at 45° angles. The result is an incredibly durable material. The new RMUL3 calibre offers the same exceptional shock-resistance thanks to grade 5 titanium.
RM 63-01 DIZZY HANDS
A new complication in watchmaking, these dizzy hands transform time into a mesmerising display. When the crown is depressed, the hour numerals on a sapphire crystal disc rotate counter-clockwise while the hour hand continues to turn clockwise, but at a different speed. Order is restored when the crown is pressed a second time. The completely new calibre is a marvel of mechanical complexity and an object of great beauty.
Richard Mille
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL DESIGN
91Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Roger Dubuis
Movement | self-winding Manufacture calibre RD620 with micro-rotor, 13¾ lines, 4.50 mm high, 184 parts, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial | sunray guilloché, silvered and charcoal grey background
Case | white gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metal-lised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture RD680 calibre with micro-rotor, 13¾ lines, 6.30 mm high, 261 parts, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, chronograph with centre seconds and 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Dial | sunray guilloché, silvered and charcoal grey background
Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
HOMMAGE AUTOMATIC
2014 is the year of the Hommage collection at Roger Dubuis. Hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, as is the brand's entire production, these timepieces are a tribute to fine watchmaking and to Roger Dubuis himself, the "soulmaker" of the Manufacture who launched a first Hommage watch in 1995. This self-winding version lends a contem-porary touch to this classic collection which takes its rightful place in the Roger Dubuis catalogue.
HOMMAGE CHRONOGRAPH
This chronograph from the new Hommage collection is Roger Dubuis' unique interpretation of a classically styled watch. Elegant and functional, it retains the powerful aesthetic for which the brand is renowned. Rectangular pusher, sunray guilloché dial, a concave bezel juxtaposed with the flange, sleek Roman numerals… all these elements allude to a watchmaking heritage which Roger Dubuis skilfully engineers for the future.
CLASSIC CLASSIC
92 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RD102 calibre in rose gold, hand-guilloché front and back, double flying tourbillon, 16 lines, 8.80 mm high, 452 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, double flying tourbillon with differential
Dial | the hand-cut, deep guilloché mainplate replaces the dial
Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture calibre RD540, flying tourbillon, 15 lines, 5.70 mm high, 293 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, instantaneous large date, power-reserve indicator, flying tourbillon
Dial | lacquered white, powder minute circle and Roger Dubuis transfers
Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature engraved on the case back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
HOMMAGE DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON
The double flying tourbillon is a signature of Roger Dubuis, already presented in the Excalibur range and in particular as a skeleton model. This year the brand introduces the double flying tourbillon to its Hommage collection. So as to emphasise its mechanical beauty, the display is deliberately simple while the hand-cut, guilloché dial accentuates the double escapement with differential. Furthermore, the hand guilloché is unique to each piece, making every watch one of a kind.
HOMMAGE FLYING TOURBILLON TRIBUTE TO MR ROGER DUBUIS
This is Roger Dubuis' tribute to its founding father, Mr Roger Dubuis, maker of the very first Hommage watch in 1995. As such, it shares the same functions as a watch which Mr Dubuis launched in 2003, namely a flying tourbillon – a complication for which the brand is renowned – with a power reserve and a large date in a window. The result is a watch of great elegance, distinguished by the contrast of alternating circles on the dial. A limited edition of 208, in reference to Mr Dubuis' registration number when a pupil at the Geneva Watchmaking School.
Roger Dubuis
CLASSIC CLASSIC
93Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Rolex
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture calibre with Parachrom balance spring, 28,800 vibra-tions/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone at 6 o'clock with day/night indication
Dial | guilloché silver
Case / 18k white gold, 39 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufac-ture 2236 calibre with Syloxi silicon balance spring with patented geometry, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, instantaneous date, stop seconds
Dial | 18k yellow gold, 455 diamonds
Case | Oyster, 18k yellow gold, bezel set with 12 baguette-cut pink sapphires and 24 baguette-cut light pink sapphires, water-resistant to 100 metres
CELLINI DUAL TIME
The new Cellini collection celebrates Rolex's watch-making tradition. In a single glance, the owner of this Dual Time model takes in time at home and time elsewhere in the world. The gold-rimmed subdial at 6 o'clock shows minutes and hours in a second time zone, while a sun or moon symbol transits an aperture to indicate day or night. On the main dial, large sword-shaped hands give local time, which can be independently set in successive jumps without disturbing the chronometric precision of the self-winding movement.
OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST PEARLMASTER 34
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 watches are the first to be equipped with the new 2236 calibre with Syloxi silicon balance spring for improved chronometric performance. Entirely developed in-house, this movement marks the beginning of a new generation of lady's watch calibres from Rolex. Like all its Perpetual movements, the 2236 is a certified Swiss chronometer, having passed the tests of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).
CLASSIC TECHNICAL WOMEN'S
94 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Romain Gauthier
Movement | Manufacture calibre with push-button winding and fusee-and-chain constant-force mecha-nism, 333 parts, 35.50 mm ø, 10.50 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 3-day power reserve
Functions | offset hours, minutes and small seconds
Dial | fusee-and-chain mechanism and balance on the front with time indications on two offset subdials
Case | 5N red gold, fully gem-set cover with opening, 43 mm ø, 14.2 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
LOGICAL ONE SECRET
Romain Gauthier's Logical One was a much talked-about launch in 2013. Featuring a constant-force fusee-and-chain transmission with ruby chain links, push-button winding and sapphire inserts in the barrel, it has four patents to its name. Now the Logical One returns with a hinged cover which reveals hours and minutes, and seconds, through an opening. A cover that offers a fabulous blank canvas for the different métiers d’art such as gem-setting.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
95Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 95Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Speake-Marin
Movement | self-winding C99001-D chronograph calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on a disc at 9 o'clock, date, chronograph with centre seconds, minute and hour counters
Dial | mat black, resin base
Case | Piccadilly, grade 5 titanium, 42 mm ø, 15 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding SM3 calibre with micro-rotor, 30.40 mm ø, 5.40 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon
Dial | white lacquered, multi-level
Case | Piccadilly, grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
SPIRIT SEAFIRE CHRONOGRAPH
Peter Speake-Marin fills a chronograph-shaped gap in his collections with the new Spirit Seafire. It is named after the Supermarine Seafire, a naval version of the Spitfire and the first plane to defend the British Royal Navy fleet, as of 1942. Its titanium namesake is equally at home with casual attire and more formal wear, and stands out for its exceptio-nally legible dial.
MAGISTER TOURBILLON
Peter Speake-Marin's first ever timepiece was a pocket watch with tourbillon, a complication which has since become one of the master watchmaker's signatures. This Magister Tourbillon wristwatch incorporates a titanium case and is automati-cally wound by micro-rotor. Whereas a traditional Haute Horlogerie tourbillon takes two weeks to assemble, the movement of the Magister Tourbillon is designed to be assembled and regulated in just two days. A feat of technique that is set to make its mark.
TECHNICALCLASSIC
96 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Speake-Marin
Movement | self-winding Eros calibre, 30.40 mm ø, 4.35 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 120-hour power reserve
Functions | hours and minutes by a single hand, seconds on a central wheel
Dial | white lacquered, multi-level
Case | Piccadilly, stainless steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
VELSHEDA
The Velsheda is a completely redesigned version of the Shimoda with a single hand. The rotation of the central seconds wheel provides a visual contrast with the slow sweep of the solitary, double-ended hand which points to hours and minutes on the compass-like dial. This is a minimalistic display of time, considered as much in terms of aesthetic as functionality. The back view reveals the movements of Speake-Marin's signature "mystery" rotor.
DESIGN
97Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
TAG Heuer
Movement | self-winding linear tourbillon calibre, 214 parts, 31.50 x 35 mm, 9.26 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock on the second wheel, belt-driven one-minute tourbillon
Case | polished grade 5 titanium with black titanium carbide coating, sapphire back, 41 x 41 mm, water-resis-tant to 50 metres
MONACO V4 TOURBILLON
TAG Heuer has moved to the next level and combined drive belts that are no thicker than a human hair – a technology that took years to develop – with watchmaking's most iconic compli-cation: the tourbillon. The result is the Monaco V4 Tourbillon, the first ever tourbillon with micro-belt transmission. It marks the tenth anniversary of the original V4, presented to the world as a concept watch with belt-drive transmission, a linear mass and ball bearings. Once again, TAG Heuer breaks with established watchmaking conventions.
TECHNICAL
Movement | self-winding 5 calibre, 26 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 39-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day and date in apertures
Dial | silvered opaline
Case | polished steel, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
CARRERA CALIBRE 5 DAY-DATE AUTOMATIC
The newcomer to the Carrera Calibre 5 range, this Day-Date comes in a 41 mm diameter case that captures the very essence of the Carrera. The hour markers, hands, date aperture and logo, all rose gold-plated and hand-applied, accentuate this classic touch while ensuring the dial is perfectly legible, a trademark of the Carrera and a loyal tribute to Jack Heuer's original design.
CLASSIC
Ulysse Nardin
98 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Movement | self-winding UN-334 calibre, silicon escapement and balance spring, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | local hours and minutes in the centre, second time zone (home time) over 24 hours in an aperture, oversized small seconds, large date in a double aperture
Dial | black
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
DUAL TIME MANUFACTURE
From the time it was launched, the Dual Time Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin made its mark. This was the first time a second time zone could be adjusted both forwards and backwards. Today it returns, driven by a self-winding movement which has been designed, developed and manufactured entirely in-house: the UN-334 calibre. In addition to a large date in two apertures, also adjustable in both directions, it benefits from a silicon escapement. Indeed, Ulysse Nardin was one of the first to master silicon technology in watchmaking.
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding UN-815 calibre, 42-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds
Dial | horse in champlevé enamel
Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres
CLASSICO HORSE
Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to the horse's independent spirit with this Classico Horse. The Manufacture has applied the complex technique of champlevé enamel, where cavities are chiselled directly into the dial before filling them with enamel. The earth-tone palette of blacks, whites, browns, greys and greens, created from different metal oxides, magnificently brings to life the landscape and the galloping horses. The dial is fired to fuse the enamel to the metal, allowed to cool then polished by expert hands. The result is breathtaking. Limited edition of 88.
DESIGNTECHNICAL
99Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Ulysse Nardin
Movement | hand-wound UN-970 calibre, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, date, one-minute flying tourbillon, grande sonnerie with Westminster chimes
Dial | sapphire plate and bridges
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 46 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
IMPERIAL BLUE
Boasting a sapphire mainplate and bridges to show off the full beauty of the tourbillon, this "luminous" watch contains a grande sonnerie with Westminster chimes that sounds the hours in passing on four notes, but also the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. Controlling the energy supply was undoubtedly the major difficulty when crafting this Imperial Blue. The sounding of the passing hours and of hours, quarters and minutes on demand is powered by the same barrel, which is either partially wound by activating the repeater slide at 9 o'clock on the caseband, or fully wound by turning the crown anti-clockwise. Turning the crown clockwise winds a second barrel which supplies energy to the movement with its 50-hour power reserve. Limited edition of 20.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
100 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Urwerk
Movement | hand-wound UR-EMC calibre, linear balance coupled to an optical sensor, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 80-hour power reserve. Artificial intelli-gence: Maxon generator with manual winding, optical sensor linked to the mechanical balance, 16,000,000 Hz electronic oscillator
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, precision delta, power-reserve indicator, timing adjustment screw
Case | titanium and steel, sapphire back, 43 x 51 mm, 15.8 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
EMC
EMC, short for Electro Mechanical Control, is the first precision mechanical watch whose chrono-metric performance can be monitored and adjusted by the wearer. At the touch of a button, the owner of the watch has access to information previously reserved for professional watchmakers. This data can then be used to fine-tune the mechanism in complete security. The EMC has a triple objective: to show how external factors (positional changes, temperature and pressure) influence the balance-spring assembly, to enable the wearer to adjust the movement themselves, and to encourage interac-tivity between the timepiece and its owner.
TECHNICAL
101Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Vacheron Constantin
Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 2790 SQ calibre, 27.37 x 29.30 mm, 6.10 mm high, 246 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve, date, tourbillon
Dial | skeleton
Case | tonneau, 950 platinum, sapphire back, 38 x 48.24 mm, 12.73 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
MALTE TOURBILLON OPENWORKED
Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, this new timepiece presents a tourbillon within a completely skele-tonised form movement. Demonstrating the full extent of their skill, the Manufacture's craftsmen have transformed the surfaces of the different parts of the movement. Depending how it is angled, contrasts of dark and light appear in the depth of the mechanism, further accentuated by the three-dimensional effect of the architectural decor that stems from a new approach to hand-engraving.
Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture 2260 SQ calibre, tourbillon, 29.10 mm ø, 6.80 mm high, 231 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 336-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve, tourbillon
Dial | skeleton
Case | round, 950 platinum, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.22 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE 14-DAY TOURBILLON OPENWORKED
This watch weaves a bond between past and present, as the tourbillon complication and the art of skeletonisation, both of which originated in the early nineteenth century, take on new life inside a resolutely contemporary design, accentuated by the three-dimensional effect of the movement architecture and the Gothic-inspired decoration. An elegant slate-grey ring carries the white gold hour markers. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève.
TECHNICALTECHNICAL DESIGNDESIGN
102 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Vacheron Constantin
Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 4400 SQ calibre, 28.60 mm ø, 2.80 mm high, 127 parts, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 65-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | open, opaque grey Grand Feu enamel ring
Case | round, 18k white gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, 7.50 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 1003SQ calibre, 21.1 mm ø, 1.64 mm high, 117 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 31-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | open, hand-bevelled, natural white mother-of-pearl under an openworked gold plate set with half-pearls
Case | round, 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 37 mm ø, 8 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
MÉTIERS D’ART MÉCANIQUES AJOURÉES
Built around one of Vacheron Constantin's iconic movements, the 4400 calibre, this sculptural watch with its transparent and arched construction evokes the major European railway stations from the golden age of the industrial revolution. The skele-tonised mechanism – almost half the material has been removed compared with the solid movement – is further embellished by the stunning hand-engraving, then accentuated by the outer ring in opaque Grand Feu enamel. The Roman hour numerals are inspired by the shape of those on nineteenth-century station clocks.
MÉTIERS D’ART FABULEUX ORNEMENTS OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE
A tribute to the métiers d'art that reign within the Manufacture, and bearing the Poinçon de Genève, this watch sets its extra-thin, skeletonised and engraved movement inside a decor inspired by Middle Eastern ornamentation. The hand-bevelled, rose gold dial borrows the form of a moucharaby (lattice window), studded with pearls and delicately set against white mother-of-pearl. The milgrain decoration on the rings is unprecedented in watch-making. Limited edition of 20.
DESIGN WOMEN'S DESIGN
103Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Van Cleef & Arpels
Movement | self-winding mechanical movement with module by Christiaan van der Klaauw, developed for Van Cleef & Arpels, totalling 396 parts
Functions | hours, minutes, day, month, year, movement of six planets around the Sun reproduced in real time
Dial | rose gold, aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite
Case | round, 18k rose gold, 44 mm diameter
Movement | self-winding mechanical
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | grisaille enamel, yellow gold
Case | round, 18k white gold, 42 mm ø, crown set with an enamel cabochon
POETIC COMPLICATION MIDNIGHT PLANETARIUM
A wrist-borne universe: this new Poetic Compli-cation replicates the position of six planets and their movement around the Sun in the same time as their heavenly counterparts. Earth, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn are each represented by a hand-carved hard stone, and brought to life by an extraordinarily complex mechanism. While Mars takes 687 days to orbit the dial, Mercury does so in just 88 days. Time is shown by a shooting star which circles the edge of the dial. Day, month and year are displayed in two apertures in the back of the case.
EXTRAORDINARY DIAL MIDNIGHT NUIT BORÉALE
Imagined as a picture of the heavens in miniature, this extraordinary dial offers a lesson in Greek mythology. A fearsome creature watches over the Golden Fleece; Cassiopeia makes a proud figure; Zeus takes the form of a swan to seduce Leda; the Great Bear and the Little Bear evoke Callisto, the nymph transformed by Hera, and her son Arcas. They are portrayed in grisaille enamel, a technique which creates dramatic effects of light and shadow, spotlighted with dots of yellow gold.
DESIGNTECHNICAL DESIGN
104 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Van Cleef & Arpels
Movement | hand-wound mechanical
Functions | hours, minutes
Dial | yellow gold, white gold, yellow and white diamonds, translucent enamel, mother-of-pearl
Case | round, 18k white gold set with diamonds, 38 mm ø
EXTRAORDINARY DIAL LADY ARPELS ZODIAC LEO
This new timepiece is one of twelve that echo a collection of medallions depicting the signs of the zodiac, which Van Cleef & Arpels proposed in the 1950s. With Fire as its element, this Leo watch is hand-engraved then covered with translucent red enamel. Diamonds and inlay of sculpted mother-of-pearl join the gold appliques to complete the dial to perfection. The corresponding constellation is engraved on the back of the case.
Movement | self-winding mechanical, developed by Agenhor for Van Cleef & Arpels
Functions | double jumping hours, retrograde minutes
Dial | white lacquer, piqué motif
Case | round, 18k white gold, 42 mm ø, crown set with diamonds
PIERRE ARPELS HEURE D’ICI ET HEURE D’AILLEURS
The Pierre Arpels collection welcomes its first complication watch. It has the restrained elegance that distinguishes the Pierre Arpels line, but beneath lies the complexity of a dual time zone display, and an original indication of time by means of double jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The Heure d’ici – home time – appears in an aperture at the top of the dial. The Heure d’ailleurs – the second time zone – is shown in an aperture lower on the dial. They simultaneously jump thanks to a single sector that synchronises the two hour discs and the retrograde minute hand. With the same concern for crisp elegance, a single crown winds the movement, and sets both time zones and the minutes.
WOMEN'S DESIGN TECHNICAL CLASSIC
105Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Vianney Halter
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture VH 113 calibre with triple-axis tourbillon, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, triple-axis tourbillon
Case | titanium, 46 mm ø, 19 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
DEEP SPACE TOURBILLON
Vianney Halter takes watchmaking to the final frontier with the Deep Space Tourbillon. Protected beneath a sapphire dome, a triple-axis tourbillon spins in the centre of the watch, circled by a classic "railroad" scale. Two hands in blued steel emerge from the edge of the watch to curve above the tourbillon which spins once in 40 seconds. It is mounted in an ultra-lightweight structure that rotates in six minutes around a second axis, perpendicular to the tourbillon carriage. The entire mechanism is mounted in a cradle that spins horizontally in 30 minutes.
TECHNICAL DESIGN
106 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Zenith
Movement | self-winding El Primero 410 calibre, 390 parts, 30 mm ø, 6.60 mm high, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, full calendar with day, date and month, moon phases, 1/10th-second chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, tachymeter scale
Dial | sunray silvered
Case | steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.75 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
Movement | self-winding El Primero 400B calibre, 328 parts, 30 mm ø, 6.60 mm high, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 1/10th-second chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Dial | skeletonised on a titanium plate, counters in three colours
Case | carbon, 45 mm ø
EL PRIMERO 410
Collectors are well-acquainted with the movement that beats inside this latest model from Zenith: the Calibre 410. Launched in 1969 as a variation on the legendary El Primero, it combines the performance of one of the most precise series-produced, self-winding chronographs with a triple calendar and moon phases. This new interpretation of an eternal favourite matches past with present: the dial layout is true to the vintage model while the case can claim an undeniably contemporary design.
EL PRIMERO LIGHTWEIGHT
Zenith has chosen high-tech materials for this sports-styled version of the legendary El Primero chrono with the aim of shedding weight and boosting performance. Firstly, the movement bridges are machined from lightweight but also hard-wearing titanium. The lever and escape wheel are in silicon, which has anti-magnetic properties, is three and a half times lighter than conventional alloys, harder than steel and delivers excellent performance. As for the carbon and aluminium case with titanium pushers and crown, it reveals the true nature of this ultra-sporty chrono. Limited edition of 250.
TECHNICALCLASSIC
107Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Zenith
Movement | hand-wound El Primero 5011K calibre, 134 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator
Dial | Grand Feu enamel
Case | sapphire case middle and back, bezel, lugs and crown in hand-engraved and chased white gold, 60 mm ø
Movement | self-winding El Primero 4613 calibre, silicon lever and escape wheel, 160 parts, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with trident hand
Dial | silvered, open on the regulating organ
Case | steel, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
PILOT TYPE 20 GRAND FEU
The new Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is powered by Calibre 5011K, a movement that made history in the 1960s by beating every record for precision in its category. The transparent case middle and back allow a clear view of this hand-wound mechanical movement. The 60 mm diameter offers ample scope for exceptional finishing. The sides and back of the movement, as well as the gold lugs and bezel, are hand-engraved and chased across their entire surface with scrolls and garland patterns in the spirit of tradi-tional fine watchmaking. Limited edition of 10.
EL PRIMERO SYNOPSIS
The El Primero Synopsis capitalises on a legendary movement and stays true to several Zenith style signatures. Hours, minutes and small seconds, at 9 o'clock, are precisely displayed thanks to the El Primero 4613 calibre which beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour. The regulating organ, driven by a silicon escapement, is visible through an opening in the dial. Avant-garde silicon represents a major breakthrough in mechanical watchmaking's quest to eliminate the need for lubricant.
DESIGN TECHNICALCLASSIC
108 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Impressum
Fondation de la Haute HorlogerieAvenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | SwitzerlandTel +41 22 705 83 00 | Fax +41 22 705 84 95hautehorlogerie.org Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie research and study centreGrégory Gardinetti, Christophe Roulet, Emmanuel Schneider, Fabio Teta
Contributor | Anne-Marie Belcari
Publication coordinator | Julien Pfister, Déborah Godat English translation | Sandra Petch
Graphic design | atelier zuppinger
Printing | Graphic Services SA
Avenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | SwitzerlandTel +41 22 705 83 00 | Fax +41 22 705 84 95hautehorlogerie.org