New finishings for innovative technical textiles

NEW FINISHINGS FOR

INNOVATIVE HOME AND

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Infoday. April 21st, 2015. Denizli (Turkey)

Oscar Calvo

R&D Group on Textile

Finishing, Health and

Environment

1. INTRODUCTION TO THE R&D GROUP ON TEXTILE FINISHING

2. POSSIBILITIES FOR FUNCTIONALIZATION BY FINISHING

3. CURRENT TRENDS ON FINISHING PRODUCTS & PROCESSES

4. CASE STUDIES AND SUCCESSFUL STORIES

5. CONCLUSIONS

Infoday. April 21st, 2015. Denizli (Turkey)

New finishings for innovative

home and technical textiles 2

SUMMARY


The needs for innovation in the textile sector are directed towards:

•The development of new textiles with special properties.

•The diversification of the existing ones.

These special properties can be achieved, in most cases, by modifying

the textile surface through technical finishing processes/technologies:

•Coating.

•Lamination / bonding.

•Surface treatments.

•Electrospinning.

3 Infoday. April 21st, 2015. Denizli (Turkey)


home and technical textiles

FUNCTIONALIZATION AND

SPECIAL PROPERTIES


Our pilot plant can apply wet finishing on textiles by padding

(impregnation) or by knife coating (on air and over roll) techniques.

Maximum width: 50 cm; it can works in a speed range of 1 - 10 m/min;

drying-curing temperatures: 30 - 200ºC; pressure for padding (control of

the pick-up/uptake) can be applied in the range of 1 - 6 bar.




Coating and tailor-made finishing formulations

Special finishing formulations

can be developed by AITEX using

different additives, in order to

achieve special properties on

the coated/finished fabrics that

are not already available with

commercial finishing products.


Knife coating (on air) applies smooth and fine coatings on the surface

(microns), and usual coating weights are not higher than 50 g/m2:

tablecloths, roller blinds, curtains, outdoor fabrics...






Knife coating (over cylinder/roll) applies a controlled coating thickness

(from 0,1 - 0,15 mm to 1 - 2 mm) and usual coating weights can move

from 50 up to 500 g/m2: blackout curtains, upholstery (FR back coating)…






Hotmelt lamination -even coating- technologies are based in the use of

adhesives that are applied in a melted state (from 60 - 80 to 220ºC

depending the adhesive type) solidifying again quickly when are cooled

down. Hotmelt adhesives are dry compounds (solid content: 100%) and

are applied without the use of water or solvents. Pilot plant for trials:

Speed: 2 - 18 m/min.

Width: 250 mm.

*Different gravure rollers: 10, 15, 30 g/m2

Thermoplastic adhesives:

- polyolefins (PE, PP).

- etilen-vynil-acetate (EVA).

- copolyamides (PA).

- copolyesters (PES).

- thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPUs).

Reactive adhesives:

- reactive polyurethanes (PUR).

- reactive polyolefins (APAO).




Lamination and bonding (by hotmelt technology)

Engraved* roller system available

FOR BONDING

DIFFERENT

MATERIALS


Plasma technology (dry process using only gas as raw material) is a

kind of surface treatment that activates polymeric materials (including

yarns, fabrics or membranes) increasing their reactivity. Plasma

treatments only modify the performance of the surface (not other

properties of the bulky material).

Activation of the textile surface (to improve wettability/adhesion

behavior) or possibilities to develop repellent nanocoatings on the

fabric surface (by plasmapolimerization) can be achieved. 2 pilot plants.




Surface treatments (by plasma technologies)

Low pressure plasma

Atmospheric (corona

discharge) plasma

To improve wettability:

Inorganic gasses (O2, N2)

To obtain repellency:

Organic monomers that

can polymerize

Power source:

100W to 1400W

Speed process:

5 to 50 m/min


Electrospinning is used for the production of nanofibers, starting from a

polymer solution. Method: high voltage is applied to a polymer solution

(some electroconductive performance). One electrode of the voltage

source is placed into the solution and the other is connected to the

collector of nanofibers. When charges within the solution reached a

critical amount, a fluid jet will erupt from the droplet at the tip of the needle

resulting in the formation of a Taylor cone. The electrospinning jet will

travel towards the region of lower potential, which in most cases, is a

grounded collector. A web of solid randomly oriented nanofibers is

deposited on the surface of the grounded collector. 4 pilot plants available.




Electrospinning technologies


• Textile products finished by padding, coating or hotmelt lamination.

• Finishing formulations with special properties using functional additives.

• Research on new / greener finishing products (new FRs, new repellents).

• Green / sustainable technologies (plasma, water treatment systems…).

• Garments with high-tech properties (e.g. finished fabrics for workwear).

• Textile solutions for sportive people with high level of comfort level.

• Electrospinning technology for biomedicine, cosmetic, acoustic end-uses.

• Interactions detergent / cleaning systems with fabrics / garments.




Main researching lines of this R&D team:

NF web (nano)


• Functional hotmelts for different textile app. (Cornet EU Project 2009-10).

• Glass microspheres and colloidal nano-silica (regional project, 2009).

• UV protective curtains (Valencian SME project, 2010).

• Sand as additive for textile coatings (Valencian SME project, 2010).

• Compatibilization of FR and anti-odour finishes (SME national project. 2010).

• Collaboration with Clariant / Archroma (dyeing & fluorocarbons, 2010 - 11).

• Nano-clays and glass microspheres (national project, 2010-12).

• Thermochromic pigments (national project, 2010-12).

• SUSFLE, SUStainable FLamEproof fabrics (ERANET project 2012 - 14).




Previous experience in the field of textile finishing:





Possibilities to develop innovative fabrics for technical applications (by

finishing) should take into account:

• Availability of chemical products for finishing and their functionality.

• The application technology (machinery to be used).

• Technical requirements of the end product

(including esthetic issues).

• Washing fastness.

• Environmental issues.

• Cost of raw materials, final price

and selling price of the end product.





OPTIONS FOR TEXTILE

FUNCTIONALIZATION BY FINISHING

WATER-BASED

DISPERSIONS

MEMBRANES FOR

LAMINATION

USE OF

ADDITIVES





Chemical products for textile finishing are currently available under water-

based systems. Solvent-based systems are being rejected!!!

WATER-BASED DISPERSIONS:

FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION





Liquid repellency (water/oil) can be achieved using fluorocarbons. Main

techniques: padding/spraying. Main fibers can be treated: all, including

technical fibers.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery.

- Curtains, roller blinds, panels…

- Tablecloths.

- Outdoor fabrics and awnings.

- Workwear & protective clothing

(Army, firesuits, medical and

surgery, chemical...).

- Automotive.

- Footwear.

http://www.google.es/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FDurable_water_repellent&ei=s5UuVceAMc34aPCvgMgN&bvm=bv.90790515,d.ZGU&psig=AFQjCNHRa4oHBNsjciGaHIV_htJGzhcmVg&ust=1429202717085680





FR performance with several chemical products. Main techniques:

padding/coating. Main fibers can be treated: cotton, PES, wool,

acrylics.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery.


- Mattress ticking.

- Carpets.



(molten metal, firesuits..).





Activity against bacteria, fungi, dust-mite, mosquitoes, bugs, moths...

Main techniques: padding/coating/spraying. Main fibers can be treated:

all.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery.


- Mattress ticking.

- Bedclothes (bedsheets, linen…).

- Carpets.



(Army, medical/surgery…).

- Sports and leisure clothing.

- Underwear, socks, footwear…

- Automotive.

http://www.google.es/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buser-ot.ch%2Fen%2Fspecialties%2Fantimicrobial-properties%2F%3Foid%3D1534%26lang%3Den&ei=d58uVdOoMoO1afrHgNAF&bvm=bv.90790515,d.ZGU&psig=AFQjCNFGW7aIlLuXK1bE7UW3B4tMLdxg1g&ust=1429205177261732





Improvement of the touch/handle of the fabric (Softness) or the Antistatic

performance. Main techniques: padding/spraying. Main fibers can be

treated: synthetics.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery (S).

- Technical curtains. (A)


(electrical risks, work with

electronic components, medical

and surgery…). (A)

- Sports and leisure clothing (S).

- Terry fabric, towels, bathrobes (S).

- Underwear, nightwear (S).

- Automotive (S) (A).





Colouring of the fabric (full colouring or only the surface). Main techniques:

padding/coating/printing. Main fibers can be treated: Common fibers.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery .

- Curtains.

- Tablecloths.

- Bedclothes.



- Fashionable clothing.

- Nightwear.

- Graphic arts, artworks.

- Advertising.





Colour change of the fabric (due to an external stimuli: light, temperature,

pH…). Main techniques: padding/coating/printing. Main fibers can be

treated: Common.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Bedclothes.



- Protective clothing (firesuits…).

- Textile-based safety signs.

- Nightwear.

- Diapers.





Use of microencapsulated chemicals or essential oils/extracts from plants.

Main techniques: padding. Main fibers can be treated: Common fibers.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery.

- Curtains.

- Bedclothes.

- Mattress ticking.



- Terry fabric, towels, bathrobes.

- Nightwear.





Use of microencapsulated active compounds or essential oils/extracts;

releasing effect on the skin. Main technique: padding. Main fibers can

be treated: Common.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Bedclothes.



- Terry fabric, towels, bathrobes.

- Underwear, socks…

- Nightwear.





To protect not only the fabric (to avoid yellowness and colour change) but

also the end-user. Main technique: padding. Main fibers can be treated:

Common fibers.


FUNCTIONALITIES

REPELLENCY

FLAME RETARDANT

ANTIMICROBIAL &

INSECT PROTECTION

SOFTNESS/ANTISTATIC

COLOUR (FASHION)

COLOUR CHANGING

FRAGRANCES

WELLBEING

UV PROTECTION

- Upholstery.




- Automotive.

- Graphic arts, artworks.

- Advertising.





MEMBRANES FOR LAMINATION:

Functionalization of home and technical textiles can also be achieved

using polymeric membranes + adhesives + lamination systems. Solvent-

based adhesive systems are being rejected!!!

NON-BREATHABLE

MEMBRANES

BREATHABLE

MEMBRANES

BREATH & FUNCTIONAL

MEMBRANES THERMOADHESIVE

FILMS

ADHESIVE REQUIRED (HOTMELT )

HEAT (MELTING the adhesive) + PRESSURE (BONDING) required = CALENDERING

LAMINATED

TEXTILE PRODUCT






Hotmelt (adhesive) technology and several application systems

available are the main causes of the strong growth of the laminated

textile subsector in EU28.

Taken from “Innovative

maschine concept for

production with high

flexibility in the laminating

and coating technique”.

LACOM. UNITEX Congress,

2004.

AVAILABLE

AT AITEX



Non-breathable membranes (based on PVC, PE, PES or TPU) can be

used for end-products like: mattress cover (low comfort), tablecloths,

curtains, roller blinds, blackout fabrics, outdoor fabrics,

advertising… PVC membranes also have intrinsic FR properties.



Breathable membranes (based on PTFE, PES or TPU) are mainly used

for end-products addressed to technical clothing (fire risks, chemical

risks, waterproof properties…) but also for home-textile applications like

mattress cover (high comfort). They act as a barrier to water and wind.



Breathable + functional membranes are also based on PTFE, PES or

TPU but give some ‘extra’ functional properties: e.g. Flame retardancy,

antimicrobial or IR barrier. Mainly used for end-products addressed to

technical clothing (fire risks, military uses, chemical risks…).





USE OF ADDITIVES:

Solid additives (micro/nanoparticles) are another option to develop new

finishings and functionalities for textiles.

Know-how on additives from other

industrial sectors to textile!!!

Development of tailor-made finishing

formulations focused on technical

properties that cannot be achieved

by currently available finishing products

in the market.

KNOW-HOW ON

ADDITIVES

SOLVING MIXING

PROBLEMS

DISPERSION ON A

POLYMERIC MATRIX

NEW FINISHING FORMULATION (tailor-made) with SPECIAL PROPERTIES





USE OF ADDITIVES:

ACTIVE

SUBSTANCES

Skin treatments

CERAMIC

PARTICLES

IR barrier

ALUMINIUM

PARTICLES

Thermal barrier

CARBON

NANOTUBES

Conductivity





USE OF ADDITIVES:

Protection against

molten metal splashes

NANOCLAYS BIOCERAMIC

PARTICLES

To improve blood circulation

GLASS

MICROSPHERES

Thermal & acoustic insulation

Better stab

protection

Nano Al2O3





EU sector of technical textiles

obtained by finishing processes

(coating, laminating) is a highly

technical, very competitive market

and in a constant growth.

For example, in 2011, turnover of

laminating EU companies was

around 8.000M € (nearly 8% of these

companies in the EU were Spanish).

Demand distribution of coated / laminated

technical fabrics at European level, 2011 (Detrell

A. The European Coating and Laminating Sector.

TCL2012).





In Europe, hotmelt technology can

be currently considered as a mature

technology, which started to come

into use in the early 2000s, with the

development of new laminating

systems, new membranes and new

adhesives.

Nevertheless, it did take about 10

years to reach its true potential and

the leading technical finishing

companies have invested in new

laminating lines (or they are currently

incorporating it into their production

processes).

Sales evolution (data in M metres) of waterproof-

breathable textile articles in the EU (Detrell A. The

European Coating and Laminating Sector.

TCL2012).





Fluorocarbons: New chemicals more environmentally friendly and safe

(fluorocarbons C6-C4 versus C8/PFOA). Other trend in this field is the

synthesis of finishing products with a low drying/curing temperature

(120-130ºC instead of 150-160ºC) in order to be capable to process

thermosensitive textile materials like PP or elasthane.

Flame retardants: Focused in the use of halogen-free flame retardants

(HFFRs) like nitrogen- and phosphorus-based compounds including

organophosphored chemicals. Use of chemical products based on

aluminium trihydroxide is growing, too.

Antimicrobials: Current trends are still mainly silver-based compounds.

Other compounds like quaternary ammonium with modified organo-silane

groups, chitosan-based compounds and chemicals with zinc (Zn) or

copper (Cu).





Wrinkle-free and easy-care: Glyoxal-based compounds with very low /

zero formaldehyde content. Safety and health issues.

Electrical conductivity on textiles:

- Inclusion of micro/nanoadditives intrinsically electroconductive (CNTs,

Cu, etc.) on a water-based polymeric resin.

- Use of conductive polymers like polypyrrole (PPy), polyaniline (PANI)

or polythiophene (PEDOT or poly-3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene)

- Use of electroconductive inks for textile-based “printed electronics”.

Machinery and processes: Manufacture of eco-sustainable wet

finishing machinery that allows lower consumption of water, energy and

chemicals than traditional processes (addressed for finishing fabrics or

garments); Hotmelt application systems more ecological and efficient.





CASE 1: FUNCTIONAL COURTAIN WITH ACOUSTIC

PROPERTIES

Objective. Obtaining a functionalized home textile with:

• Acoustic properties in order to avoid the reverberation noise.

• Fire retardant properties.

• Blackout properties.

Tested in lab and in real environment:

In a

Reverberation

Chamber (lab)

In a meeting

room (real)





CASE 1: FUNCTIONAL COURTAIN WITH ACOUSTIC

PROPERTIES

Results.

The use of curtains reduces the reverberation time and improves the

acoustic comfort.





CASE 2: CERAMIC AND ALUMINIUM COATINGS FOR

CURTAINS

Objective. To develop ceramic-based and aluminium-based coating

formulations and their application on fabrics, in order to obtain:

• IR reflection.

• Thermal barrier effect.

Use of functional micro/nanoparticles and development of ‘tailor-made’

functionalities and coating formulations.

Mixing and

aggregation of

particles

solved!





CASE 2: CERAMIC AND ALUMINIUM COATINGS FOR

CURTAINS

Results. High IR reflexion values obtained by coating process.

Formulation and fabric coating tested at lab and real environment (textile

company).

TEST STANDARD LEVEL

Weight (coated) - 274,19 g/m2

UV protection /

UPF AS/NZS 4399

UPF T (UVA) (%) T (UVB) (%)

50+ (excellent) 0,02 0,02

Light fastness ISO 105 After 100 hours = 7-8 (maximum = 8)

Rubbing

fastness ISO 105

Dry Wet

Change in

colour 5 (max = 5) 5 (max = 5)

Staining 5 (max = 5) 4-5 (max =

5)

FR behaviour BS 5867 part 2 PASS

IR reflexion

(300 - 2500 nm)

AITEX own

method

(Spectrophot.)

70,28% (up to 89% @ range 800 - 1200 nm)

Heat reflexion - 36-37ºC (after 30 min)





CASE 3: RESEARCH ON LASER TECHNOLOGY FOR NEW

EFFECTS ON UPHOLSTERY

Objective. To investigate possibilities of implementation of a

breakthrough textile technology, laser treatment, on upholstery finishing.

Laser treatment (laser marking) is a technology quite used for ‘controlled’

aging of denim, being a successful substitutive process of sandblasting

(health problems on workers).





CASE 3: RESEARCH ON LASER TECHNOLOGY FOR NEW

EFFECTS ON UPHOLSTERY

Results. New colour effects and designs on dyed upholstery fabrics

without use of printing processes, only by laser marking of the pre-dyed

fabric.





CASE 4: LAMINATED FR MATTRESS COVER OBTAINED

USING HOTMELT TECHNOLOGY

Objective. To develop a laminated mattress cover (breathable /

waterproof) with FR properties in all components involved:

• Textile substrate.

• Hotmelt adhesive.

• Polymeric membrane.

Hotmelt application system based on engraved cylinder (gravure roller)

was investigated, in order to ensure good adhesion and breathability -dots

of adhesive applied on the surface, not full coating-.





CASE 4: LAMINATED FR MATTRESS COVER OBTAINED

USING HOTMELT TECHNOLOGY

Results. Some combinations of textile substrate + polymeric membrane

were obtained.

Main technical properties reached:

- FR class: A (ISO 12952); Water column: > 5m (EN 20811); Washing

cycles: 50 @ 60ºC (ISO 6330).





CASE 5: DEVELOPMENT OF BABY GARMENT WITH A

FINISHING BASED ON MINERALS FOR WELLBEING

Objective. To develop a knitted fabric finished with a formulation that

includes a mineral can be activated by rubbing and emit negative-charged

ions (wellbeing and relaxing effect for the end-user). Especially designed

for baby garments.

Some issues were considered:

• Identification of minerals with the desired

effect.

• Tailor-made finishing formulations.

• To ensure good adhesion of microparticles

to fibers.

• To quantify the emission of ions and the

wellbeing of babies.





CASE 5: DEVELOPMENT OF BABY GARMENT WITH A

FINISHING BASED ON MINERALS FOR WELLBEING

Results. Mineral-based finishing formulation were obtained and applied

on knitted fabrics. Benefits of the special functionality were evaluated and

quantified at lab scale and real environment (end-users).

Home Test: End-product was tested on

babies (0 - 3 months old) for 1 week.

Evaluation by questionnaire was done on parents (asking them about

sleep quality, sleep time, awakenings, relaxing/exciting state of the

baby…). It was found that sleep/rest of babies was better using this

garment than a conventional one.

Unit Value

Ionic emission

(original) Anions/cm3 4900

Ionic emission

(after 5 washes) Anions/cm3 2800

Can be considered a good result if >1000





CASE 6: DEVELOPMENT OF SMART COLOUR-CHANGING

COATINGS FOR SAFETY PURPOSES

Objective. To develop and integrate a textile-based alarm system (based

on colours) for firefighter suit in order to indicate burn/injury temperature

risk.

Main issues:

• To detect high temperatures and warn the end-user in a visual way

through changing the color of the fabric, at 60ºC and at 80ªC.

• Development of a ‘tailor-made’ coating/printing solution.

• Research on smart colour-changing materials.





CASE 6: DEVELOPMENT OF SMART COLOUR-CHANGING

COATINGS FOR SAFETY PURPOSES

Results. Some coating formulations were developed, with the ability of

changing their colour when varying temperature of the environment.

Application by knife coating technique was done on FR fabrics and

integration/confection steps were also possible.

5. CONCLUSIONS




New chemical finishings (via commercial products or via ‘tailor-made’

formulations) are available for the textile finishing market.

New functionalities can be developed/obtained using special additives.

Special machinery is usually not required for the application of new

(wet) finishings, as they can be processed by padding / coating / printing…

New eco-sustainable technologies are being implemented in the

finishing subsector: hotmelt lamination, garment finishing with high savings

on raw materials, laser marking… and new products, material

combinations and effects can be achieved.

A wide range of end-products and markets can be reached with a right

combination of fabric + functional finishing + technology.

Teşekkürler!!!

Thank you for your attention!!!

María Blanes ([email protected]). Team leader of the

R&D Group on Textile Finishing, Health and

Environment.

Oscar Calvo ([email protected]). Researcher.

R&D Group on Textile Finishing, Health and

Environment @ LinkedIn:

https://www.linkedin.com/groups/R-D-Group-on-Textile-

8102442/about

AITEX website: http://www.aitex.es

New finishings for innovative technical textiles

Technology

Transcript of New finishings for innovative technical textiles