Why Go? Alberta does lakes and mountains like Rome does churches and cathedrals, but without the penance. For proof head west to Jasper and Banff, two of the world’s oldest national parks which, despite their wild and rugged terrain, remain well-trammeled and easily accessible. No one should leave this mortal coil without first laying eyes on Lake Louise and the Columbia Icefield. And think twice about dying before you’ve traveled east to the dinosaur-encrusted badlands around Drumheller, south to the Crypt Lake trail in Water- ton Lakes National Park, and north to spot bison in the vast, empty northern parklands. Alberta’s cities are of patchier interest. There are people still alive older than Calgary and Edmonton’s downtowns. But, what these metropolises lack in history they make up for with their festivals. Edmonton’s fringe theater festival is the world’s second largest, while Calgary’s July ‘Stampede’ is as unapologetically ostentatious as the city that hosts it.

Alberta

When to Go

Jul Prime time for festivals, with Ed- monton’s Street Performers and the Calgary Stampede.

Jul–Sep Banff and Jasper trails are snow free, making a full range of hikes available.

Dec–Feb Winter- sports season in the Rocky Mountains.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Edmonton °C/°F Temp

-30/-22

-20/-4

-10/14

0-32

10/50

30/86

20/68

0

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6/150

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Best Places to Eat ¨¨ Da-De-O (p54)

¨¨ Model Milk (p69)

¨¨ Bison Restaurant & Terrace (p86)

¨¨ Other Paw (p98)

Best Places to Stay ¨¨ Fairmont Banff Springs

(p85)

¨¨ Metterra Hotel on Whyte (p50)

¨¨ Park Place Inn (p97)

¨¨ Hotel Alma (p65)

Edmonton . . . . . . . . . . .48 Calgary . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Banff & Jasper National Parks . . . . . . . 72 Banff Town . . . . . . . . . .78 Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . .88 Jasper Town & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Southern Alberta . . . .100 Northern Alberta . . . .108

16/8/10Corey Hutchison

Country Locator A1

John Lee

British Columbia

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Crowsnest Pass (1396m)

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National Park Waterton Lakes

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Edmonton

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Buffalo Jump Head-Smashed-In

Lake Louise Banff

National

0 100 km 0 50 miles

1 Explore the Jurassic remnants of Drumheller (p100) and call into the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology.

2 Make fresh tracks on a cross-country skiing trail in Jasper National Park (p72). 3 Attend the Edmonton International Fringe Festival

(p50) and unlock the more bohemian side of the Albertan capital.

4 Decipher the foggy history of First Nations culture at Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump (p102). 5 get above the tree line on the Carthew-Alderson Trail

in Waterton Lakes National Park (p105). 6 Take afternoon tea after a morning hike in the Fairmont Banff Springs (p85) hotel. 7 Enjoy a brew in the Lake Agnes Teahouse (p91) high above bluer-than-blue Lake Louise.

Alberta Highlights