NC Make-up Workshop Knowledge & Application

© Natural Compatibles

The Story Behind Natural Compatibles

The Art of Beauty

Nouk Taylor-Viera was a well known makeup artist and in 1991 she discovered a new make-up concept and called it “feature focussing”, which is the philosophy behind Natural Compatibles. Not long after, Natural Compatibles was formed in Cairns Australia to produce a versatile range of make-up suitable for every woman and every occasion. Our make-up philosophy is based on the principles of art so that colours don’t change through the seasons. Looking your best is achieved by using specific colours and our unique feature focussing technique, which highlights and defines the two main communicating features of the face – eyes and lips. This will also diminish the need to cover or correct flaws, leading to enhanced self esteem. In February 2012 Pamela Andrews brought the company confident in knowing exactly what was required to bring it back to life and giving it a well deserved facelift. In 1994 Pamela was the first Victorian to train with Natural Compatibles, taking the philosophy and applying the Natural Compatibles concept to her clients. Pamela also worked for a short time for the company as a consultant. Pamela plays a big part in the manufacturing of Natural Compatibles, her hands on approach to her company keeps the quality control to a high standard. Pamela’s vision for Natural Compatibles is to keep it Australian made and owned. Her passion is to educate women of all ages with regards to their makeup application creating a vibrant confident and naturally enhanced woman. Natural Compatibles have a unique formulation setting us apart from other makeup brands. We continue to maintain high level of ingredients and quality control. We source products and materials such as packaging and display stands within Australia when possible to support other small business operators. We love to say we are Australian Made & Owned as we head into our third decade.

Key features of Natural Compatibles:

Australian owned and made

Heading into our third decade

Environmentally friendly

Not tested on animals

Mineral based

Contains essential oils

Unique formulations

Affordable

Next day delivery system where available

INTRODUCTION

The Natural Compatibles Concept - Why is it different?

The very important ways we are different to other makeup ranges are:

Natural Compatibles is based on the principles of Art. This specific range of matt colours harmonise with the skin tones, which will help you to look, feel and know just how individually attractive you are. These colours have been used by portrait artists for centuries depicting the human form in its healthy, natural state. For example, if an artist wants to paint someone looking old and tired, they would use frosted, pearls, blues, gold's etc. If they want to paint someone as looking healthy, they would use the Natural Compatibles colours. Due to demand, Natural Compatibles added new shades with a slight shimmer to them so the younger customers have a choice of both matt and shimmer colours.

Natural Compatibles shades don’t change because they are specifically chosen to compliment the human face. This unique method of application uses colours of light and deep to create balance and symmetry. This technique is ideal for the mature woman.

Feature Focussing™ defines beauty regardless of age, by focussing on the two main communicating features of the face, the eyes and lips. It also diminishes the need to cover or correct flaws, leading to enhanced self - esteem. We don’t like to follow fashion trends like other make-up brands with constant changes throughout the seasons. However we do like to say “We sprinkle a bit of fashion along the way”.

Natural Compatibles concept is about helping every woman learn to look her best by using specific application of colour.

Natural Compatibles use individual packaging for shadows, so each woman creates a personal palate of versatile colours so she can look great every time. It frees women from the need to follow fashion trends.

The Revolutionary Concept of Feature Focussing

This chart explains what happens as we age and how the Feature Focussing concept can help

True Symptoms of

Ageing

After Feature Focussing™ The Timeless Secrets

The Eyes

Whites of the eye can go yellow

or red

Whites are intensified to look

whiter

Using the correct lower lid liner intensifies the iris colour and creates greater contrast with the whites of the eyes, as well as framing the eye area

Iris colour fades Iris colour intensified

As above

Eyelashes fade/thin out Eyelashes appear fuller Applying mascara to base of lashes gives colour and body and frames the eye area

Eyelids becomes loose, crepey

and pull eyes down giving a tired

look to the face

Eyes appear more open and

vibrant

Combining light, deep and lifter eye shadow helps to lift and open eyes while detracting from dark circles

Notice lines and wrinkles They are still there, but not

noticeable

By Feature Focussing™ our makeup on the eyes, lines and wrinkles disappear into the background

True Symptoms of

Ageing (Before)

After Feature Focussing™ The Timeless Secrets

The Eyebrows

Thin out/fade, if extended too

far, creating old, tired look

Brows are more youthful and feminine. The face is framed and more balanced

Reshaping the brow and applying powder shadow

The Lips

Colour line and colour fade A youthful lip line and colour is restored

Lip defining, fill in and lipstick

combine to recreate youthful

lips.

Lips begin thinning out

(become smaller)

Lips appear fuller, more feminine and youthful

By redefining the lip line with lip

pencils, fuller youthful lips are

restored.

Teeth begin to yellow Teeth appear whiter The ideal colour lipstick will create the contrast to make teeth appear whiter

Overall

Tired, older Natural, attractive and youthful By Feature Focussing™ we have

detracted from any so called

‘flaws’

PHASE ONE: BASE WORK

Foundation Concealer

Powder

Smooth Complexions Liquid Foundation

Foundation is to even out skin tones and to act as a base for

other products. We add colour to the face with other products

such as blush and lipstick.

Purpose:

To harmonise your skin tone.

To act as a base coat for improved application of other

makeup products.

To protect your skin from the ageing effects of the

Foundation myths:

Using a darker foundation than your skin tone to create the illusion of a healthy tan – in reality you will

make yourself look older.

Extending foundation down the neck – results in an unnatural look, foundation should be blended only to

the jaw line.

NC foundations are yellow based as yellow compliments almost all skin tones, yellow based foundations are great to counteract rosacea and broken capillaries.

Skin type: Most skin types – especially mature skin Finish: Medium Matt/Dewy coverage

Finding the correct foundation match

If you have been confused with undertones and foundations please read on and you should understand this area of confusion more clearly. In the past we were taught that it was correct to choose the opposite of our natural skin tone for foundation, and they realised that this was wrong. They then informed us to match pink based foundations with pink undertones and olive under tones with olive based foundations

and this was also incorrect. Then finally they got it right with yellow undertones. Yellow is a colour that is in all skin types, lightest to deepest, some have more shades of red or brown in them. Yellow counteracts the skin tones you don’t want to see and enhances the tones that we do want to see and this is one of the reasons why our Wet & dry foundation is so popular. Almost everyone looks better with some yellow in their foundation.

Foundation application:

Always insure moisturizer has settled before applying foundation.

Beginning at the centre of the face then blending outward, apply using a foundation brush.

Sponges tend to soak up most of the product, leave your sponge to tidy areas only.

Apply and blend one section at a time.

For a full matte coverage set with Natural Compatibles Wet and Dry Foundation.

Finish by blending downward to ensure all facial hairs lay flat.

Wet & Dry Foundation

Wet and Dry foundation is Natural Compatibles best selling product; age defying coverage with a creamy and smooth touch. Wet and Dry foundation optically minimises fine lines and wrinkles, the enriched minerals protect the skin against moisture loss and also works as an instant SPF. Perfect for young girls as this product doesn’t clog the pores therefore minimizing the risk of pimples appearing.

Wet & Dry refills available

Application: There are two different ways to apply wet and dry foundation both giving a different finish. Wet and Dry can also be applied to set Liquid Foundation creating a fuller coverage.

Wet application

Using a slightly damp sponge, roll and press over the entire face working sections at a time. Thin out gradually towards hairline and jaw line to ensure no demarcation line. Effect is a full, matte coverage.

Dry application

Apply with a dry sponge for a lighter coverage

For a lighter coverage apply with a powder brush

Apply wet & dry foundation to set liquid for all day coverage.

Perfect Touch Concealer

Concealers are great if you want to improve your skins appearance but only if it’s not noticeable that you are wearing any. Choosing the correct shade and applying to the discoloured area only is very important.

Natural Compatibles perfect touch concealer is available in Five shades targeting different areas of concern. C1-Eliminates dark circles suitable for dark-medium skin types C2-Eliminates dark circles suitable for med/ dark- medium skin types C3-Concealer for fair skin types C4-Concealer for redness and blemishes for fair skin types C5-Concealer for redness and blemishes for medium skin types Perfect touch concealer is fast drying and has superior staying power. The quick and easy applicator with a soft tapered tip allows you to blend the product. Approx. 100-150 applications

Key ingredients and Benefits:

Titanium dioxide is an instant sunscreen that physically blocks UVA & UVB rays without absorbing into the blood stream.

Bees wax acts as an anti inflammatory and a germicidal antioxidant, (prevents infection) beeswax also contains vitamin A which is an anti ageing antioxidant.

Vitamin E is hydrating and healing on the skin, and is an essential vitamin for healthy skin cells.

Application for Dark circles: Prepare area with an eye crème and allow to soak for a few minutes. (Eye cream helps concealer to adhere) Choose a concealer as close as possible to your foundation colour. Apply concealer along the demarcation line where the discoloration begins, then extend over the discoloured area, avoid below the demarcation line. Stipple with your middle finger and pat along the demarcation line to blend, again avoid applying product below the demarcation line. Be aware that there may be darkness in the corner of the eye or lid area also. Extreme dark circles apply a shade or two lighter than the foundation and apply concealer before foundation. Take care not to wipe away the concealer.

Yellow shades for ivory and beige tones

Golden orange shades for dark skin tones

If you are using a concealer that matches your foundation exactly you can apply either before or after your foundation. But if you are using one that is lighter apply before foundation. Gently press concealer to required area, blend with tip or concealer brush. Use either pressed mineral powder or Wet & Dry to set concealer to give extra staying power.

Tips: Mature skins can accentuate lines or wrinkles with concealer and heavy powders settling under the eye area. Try applying a tiny amount using the middle finger or simply leave this area all together. You might want to try mixing a little of your concealer with your foundation for the perfect match.

Under eye puffiness This is a tricky application but if done correctly great results can be achieved. Because our faces are lit from above, the puffy area creates a shadow on the face. By highlighting the shadowed area you will bring it forward and make the puffiness recede.

Under eye puffiness & dark circles Many women can have both puffiness and dark circles. Apply concealer to the dark area first then apply foundation to the rest of the face. Highlight underneath the puffiness with the concealer. This in the only time to apply a lighter concealer after foundation. Take care not to blend concealer away.

Tips: If you use a concealer that is too light you will only draw attention to that area. If concealer is thick try blending with some eye crème.

Test concealer to a vein on the inside of the wrist for coverage.

Perfect Touch Concealer

Tips for Use: Use on tear drop zone, dark circles, pigmentation, varicose veins—

RRP $30.00

No mess, easy to use

Covers like a foundation

Ideal for dark areas around the

eyes

Soft sponge applicator for

delicate areas Product housed in the cap

Approx. 100-150 applications

Helpful hints in box with product

Introducing our 5 NEW Perfect

Touch Concealers, only

recently launched in Europe

and a first for Australia. The

PTC delivers a fast drying

superior staying power

concealer with precise

application. The applicator

being the same as our no

mess no fuss Applishades, the

gentle sponge tip allows for

ease of application, and the

soft tapered tip allows for

perfect delivery of the

product each time. A must to

add to your make-up bag.

Available in 5 shades: Tan,

Beige, Ivory, Natural and Anti-

Red.

Perfect Touch Concealer

Tips for Use: Use on tear drop zone, dark circles, pigmentation, and varicose

veins—can be used on any part of the body

Feather onto required area, smooth over with fingertip

RRP $30.00

No mess, easy to use

Covers like a foundation

Ideal for dark areas around the

eyes

Soft sponge applicator for

delicate areas

Product housed in the cap

approx 100-150 applications

Helpful hints in box with product

Introducing our 5 NEW Perfect

Touch Concealers, only

recently launched in Europe

and a first for Australia. The

PTC delivers a fast drying

superior staying power

concealer with precise

application. The applicator

being the same as our no

mess no fuss Applishades, the

gentle sponge tip allows for

ease of application, and the

soft tapered tip allows for

perfect delivery of the

product each time. A must to

add to your make-up bag.

Available in 5 shades: Tan,

Beige, Ivory, Natural and Anti-

Red.

PHASE TWO: FRAME WORK

Lip Definer/Lip Filler Brows Blush

Lips

The eyes and mouth are our two principle Feature Focussing™ areas and means of communication, it is important that we create a balanced look. By outlining the lips first, you create a reference point for eye-shadow application.

Lip Definer Pencil (outline) Purpose:

To create a balanced lip shape for colouring in.

To redefine, bring forward and make a feature of your lips.

To recreate a youthful, feminine appearance by redrawing a fading or thinning lip line.

Warm or Cool?

Your ideal lip defining and lipstick colours are determined by your skin tone – warm or cool.

Use the NC Lipstick colour swatch fan to see which group of colours gives your clients face a lift.

Preparation:

Decide whether you are warm or cool toned.

Select the right lip pencil colour.

Ensure your lip pencil shade is deeper than your lipstick colour.

Ensure your pencil is sharp.

Guide to selecting your Lip Pencil

Skin Tone Pencil Colour

Cool Definer Deep Cool, Medium Cool, Natural Cool

Filler Cool Nude, Natural Nude

Warm Definer Deep Warm, Natural Warm

Filler Warm Nude, Natural Nude

Dark Definer Deep Cool

Filler Medium Cool

Asian Definer Deep Cool, Medium Cool, Natural Cool

Filler Cool Nude, Natural Nude

LIP DEFINER

o Lip definer colour must be deeper than lipstick shade of choice, make sure pencil is sharpe. o Begin with the cupids bow and balance point on the lower lip. o Upper lip - extend lines to the outer corners. o Lower lip - begin from the outer corners working towards the centre of the lip line. o Use a light touch when defining the lip line in short feathery strokes. o Defining line should be evenly applied. o Deep Cool pencil - use on normal to large lips. o Medium Cool pencil - use on medium to thin lips. o Deep Warm pencil - us on normal to large lips. o Natural Warm & Cool pencils - can be used under most Natural Compatibles lipsticks as a definer

or filler. LIP FILLER

o Lip filler acts as a base for longer lasting lipstick, it also aids in muting the definer line. o Lip filler will soften the tone of the final lipstick coat. o If the lips are high in colour, follow the chart for dark skin filler pencil selection. o Lip filler pencils can be interchanged under any lipstick to alter the tone of the lipstick - to suit the

client’s needs. o Natural Warm & Cool pencils - can be used under most Natural Compatibles lipsticks as a definer

or filler. o Natural Nude - is a good choice to tone down the pink in lipsticks.

EYEBROWS

Eyebrows are an important part of any makeup application. Without, the face takes on a “surprised” look and detracts from focusing into the eye colour. Natural dark colouring of the eyebrow hair will frame the eyes but they should be shaped by waxing tweezing, or both.

o If you are doing a brow shape, trial a shadow shade to suit the brow hair colour and talk about the benefits. You could also offer to apply some perfect touch concealer or wet & dry to take away the redness.

o Always check the brows for symmetry and evenness of colour throughout.

o The beginning of the brow should be rounded as this creates a softer effect and detracts from the nose.

o If there are gaps or no hair then it should be painted on in feathery strokes. o The end should either taper to a point and should line up with the under lying hairs at the

beginning, or be slightly higher to create the lift o Long eyebrows create a drooped appearance and accentuate expression lines near the outer

corners of the eyes. o An arch can be created by removing a few hairs from below the peak.

o First brush up the hairs with a lash - comb brush, then feather onto the skin where the colour is required using a brow brush.

o Old dry mascaras can add body and extra colour to fine hairs. o First wipe the old dry mascara wand onto a tissue, test on the hairs on the back of the arm to

ensure the wand is devoid of colour. Check existing eyebrow colour and match as close as possible with the powder shadows as follows: · EL1 Ebony - black hair. · EL5 Chocolate - black - brown hair. · D1 Saddle brown - dark hair. · D2 Nutmeg - light - medium brown hair. · L2 Taupe - light red, ash, grey or blonde hair. · D3 Barley Berry or D10 Spice - to cover colouring implanting which has turned blue. · Mocca - can be used as a soft, natural brow colour for many hair shades.

Tips You can apply brow powder dry or for a more sculptured look apply wet to give more definition. Run over brows with kohl pencil or liquid liner pens for an even more defined and sculptured look to the brows.

BLUSH

Blush should looks natural but also add colour to the face. The best colour is your natural colour you get when exercising. Keep blush natural for day wear, evening makeup can afford to up the ante with stronger shades for balance. The oval face shape has long been held to be the most desirable and therefore, to achieve this “perfect” look, you would apply the contouring and highlighting techniques. Most everyday women don’t have time to apply contouring and highlighting effects to balance out their face, I like to leave this area for special occasions and photographic work. We are going to focus today on the three face shapes below, by following this application your clients can very easily follow these simple steps to apply blush. Purpose:

To help define your cheekbones.

To create a healthy, natural glow to your skin.

To create a balanced and uplifted appearance, bringing the focus of attention into your eyes

Ideal placement for blush application

NARROW COMBINATION BROAD

(a) DROP LINE indicating how far blush can be applied towards centre of face. (b) ANGLE LINE indicating the correct angle to achieve best “smile” line.

Each shade:

BL1 Rose Pink - (cool tones) - tanned, dark to black skin.

BL3 True Blush - (cool / warm tones) medium to tanned skin.

L1 Sheer Pink - (pale cool tones) fair to black hair.

L2 Taupe - (pale warm tones) freckled skin with fair, strawberry blonde or red-brown hair.

Cinnamon - suitable for nearly all of the above, give a subtle contour.

Audacious – (cool tones) can be applied light or intense ( younger fashion shade/evening shade)

Sahara – (neutral tones) gentle natural look light-medium skin tones

Pretty in Pink – (cool tones) pretty and soft light-medium skin tones

PHASE THREE: COLOURING IN

Shadow Liner Eye-Shadow

Mascara Lipstick

COLOURING IN

To focus attention into the eyes and to create a youthful natural look

LIGHT SHADOW To increase or decrease lid space dependant on size using colours which harmonise with the skin tone

DEEP SHADOW To redirect the shape of the contour line, to create the illusion of symmetry and balance using artistic techniques of light and shade

EYELIFTER To create the illusion of opened and lifted eyes and detract from dark circles and bags under the eyes

LOWER LINER To intensify the iris colour and work to brighten the whites of the eyes, an illusion is created to reduce the appearance of capillaries and pterygium when the correct colour is applied

UPPER LINER The illusion is created to thicken lashes and frame the eyes when applied along the lash line. This step is optional, though advisable to stop the eyes from looking bald and to give the lashes a fuller thicker look

MASCARA Defining, framing and Feature Focussing TM your eyes and will prevent them from having a bald appearance

KHOL Will help to close up an eye which appears as though it is too round or open. If the iris is quite small or high set showing a white gap, it may be necessary to draw a fine line inside the lower lid

Preparations for eye liner application

SHADOW LINERS

Shadow liners are an important part of Feature - Focussing™. Whilst framing the eye area both lower and upper liners have specific functions

Lower liner intensifies the iris colour and whitens the whites of the eyes

Upper liner defines and gives body to lashes.

LOWER LINER The correct lower liner colour will intensify the iris colour and work to brighten the whites of the

eyes. An illusion is created to reduce the appearance of capillaries and pterygiums when the correct colour is applied close to the lashes and smudged to blend.

With colour swatch hold directly underneath the eye, select which lower liner best intensifies the iris colour, and brightens the whites of the eyes.

Ideal colour choice is best at all times check chart

Eye Colour

Ideal Colours

Under 18 yrs

For a Softer

look

Over 60 yrs

Very Dark Brown to Black Eyes

Light / Dark Brown

Upper EL1 Ebony EL5 Chocolate

D1 Saddle brown D8 Grape D9 Purple Haze

D8 Grape EL1 Ebony EL5 Chocolate

Lower D8 Grape D1 Saddle brown D3 Barely Berry D3 Barely Berry, D6 Purple Suede

EL5 Chocolate

Yellow Green

Upper EL1 Ebony EL5 Chocolate

D1 Saddle brown D8 Grape D9 Purple Haze

D8 Grape

Lower D8 Grape D1 Saddle brown D3 Barely Berry D3 Barely Berry, D9 Purple Suede

Green/Blue Green

Upper EL1 Ebony EL5 Chocolate

D1 Saddle brown D8 Grape D9 Purple Haze

D8 Grape

Lower EL2 Emerald, D9 Purple Haze

D1 Saddle brown D3 Barely Berry D3 Barely Berry, D9 Purple Suede

Blue/Blue Green

Upper EL1 Ebony EL5 Chocolate

D1 Saddle brown D8 Grape D9 Purple Haze

D8 Grape

Lower EL4 Midnight Blue EL2 Emerald D9 Purple Haze

D1 Saddle brown D3 Barely Berry D3 Barely Berry, D9 Purple Suede

Blue

Upper EL1 Ebony EL5 Chocolate

D1 Saddle brown D8 Grape D9 Purple Haze

D8 Grape

Lower EL3 Ocean Blue D3 Barely Berry D9 Purple haze

D1 Saddle brown D3 Barely Berry D3 Barely Berry D9 Purple Suede

Application

Gently support the chin with your hand. Looking up, apply underneath the lash line. Dampen the liner brush in water and work the shadow liner into a paste. Bring the brush back to a

point on the back of the hand. The colour should be opaque and intense, not watery and always apply the lower liner first. Line approx, 2/3 to 3/4 under the lash line from the outer edge inwards, apply a second coat if

necessary. Smudge using a dampened cotton tip working the bud backwards and forwards to create a soft,

muted effect or soften using your number 23 or 24 eye-shadow brush. Show your client how they can apply by using the hand mirror - hold the mirror up high, tilt the

chin down, then look up into the mirror.

UPPER LINERS Upper liner should always be deep in colour, black, charcoal brown or plum brown shades are

best. Again the illusion is created to thicken the lashes and frame the eyes when applied along the lash line.

This step is optional, though advisable to stop the eyes from looking bald and to give the lashes a fuller, thicker look.

If you do not have a steady hand, use short strokes to complete the line. EL1 Ebony and EL5 Chocolate is essential for evening and special occasions. D8 Grape and D9 Purple Haze creates a softer look for a mature lady. Dampen the liner brush in the water and work the shadow liner into a paste. Bring the brush back

to a point on the back of the hand. Flatten the top lashes with the handle of the brush and line as close to the lash line as possible. Begin at the point where the lashes first begin to thicken and work towards the end. Show your client how they can apply by using the hand mirror - hold the mirror down almost

horizontally, tilt the chin up and look down into the mirror.

Eye-shadow application

Purpose:

1. To focus attention into the eyes. 2. To give the eyes and face a lift. 3. To create an attractive, natural and youthful look.

Matt shades are highly recommend for mature woman however please try our new shimmer shades and then determine what best suit your client.

Preparations for eye-shadow application

Step1. Identify the eye shape. Determining the eye shape will:

(a) Indicate where to apply the eye-shadow colours. (b) Indicate ideal eye-shadow colour combinations. To do this see following eye charts.

Step2. Identify the eye shadow application placement. Now that you know the eye shape, see eye-shadow application placement chart.

Step3. Identify the ideal eye-shadow combinations. See following eye charts.

EYE-SHADOW

LIGHT EYE SHADOW

With maturity most eye shapes loose lid space, as the surrounding skin loses its elasticity and begins to flop or hood over the lashes.

The purpose of the light eye shadow is to increase or decrease lid space dependent on its size using colours which harmonise with the skin tone.

Selection To identify the specific eye shape, check the amount of lid space available when the eye is open.

Lid space is from the lash line to the contour line. To identify a protruding eye observe the models profile side on with her eyes closed. A brow bone

set back behind the lid is a prominent / protruding eye. Choose colours L3 Bubblegum, L4 Baby Pink, L6 Peach Pink, L8 Orchid, for skin which has a

brown pigmentation creating a natural brown eye shadow, dependant on the darkness of the skin colour.

Colour choice for the wearer of amber tinted glasses is as above, check light colours first behind pink or mauve tints.

Application Group 1 - pat light shadow across 2/3 of the lid area. Group 2 (prominent / protruding) - pat light shadow across 1/3 of the lid area.

DEEP EYE SHADOW

The purpose of the deep shadow is to redirect the shape of the contour line. The aim is to create the illusion of symmetry and balance using artistic techniques of light and shade. Colours which harmonise with the skin tone should be in the plum brown range.

Selection Choose colours D5 Nude Berry, D6 Purple Suede, D7 Subtle Mauve, D9 Purple Haze for

skin which has a brown pigmentation creating a natural brown eye shadow, dependant on the darkness of the skin colour.

Colour choice for the wearer of amber tinted glasses is as above, choose colours D1 Saddle brown, D2 Nutmeg, D4 Soft terracotta, D5 Nude Berry and check colours behind pink or mauve tints.

Application Group 1 - begin at the end of the contour line and sweep the colour concavely over 1/3

of the lid and into the contour line. Group 2 - begin at the end of the contour line and sweep the colour convexly over 2/3 of

the lid and into the contour line.

EYELIFTER

Colour selection is as follows, L6 Peach Pink - cool / warm shade tanned to medium skin tones, L7 Salmon - warm shade tanned to medium skin tones, L8 Orchid - cool shade darker skin tones, L9 Warm Sand - cool / warm shade fair to medium skin tones.

Colour should softly highlight the outer 1/3 of the brow bone.

Avoid colouring the area directly under the peak of the brow, eye lifter is a counter shade, NOT a highlighting colour.

Begin by rounding into the contour line, then sweeping up to the outer third of the brow bone.

Use a soft bristled brush as this will allow for a light application of colour.

Group One eye shape

Proportioned eye shape

COOL TONES WARM TONES

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L1 Sheer Pink (m) L6 Peach Pink (m) L3 Bubble Gum (m) L7 Salmon (m) L4 Baby Pink (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L8 Orchid (m) (dark skin tones) L10 Buckwheat (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) Vanilla (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) Angelic (s) L11 Misty Rose (m) Martini (s) Vanilla (m) Cashmere (s) Angelic (s) Cashmere (s) Diamonds (s) Martini (s) Pink Champagne (s)

Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) Coco (s) D10 Spice (m) Frosting (s) Coco (s) Sugar Plum (s) Mink (s) Passion (s) Sugar Plum (s) Brazil (s) Brazil (s) Passion (s)

Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion

D3 Barley Berry (m) D3 Barley Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D9 Purple Haze (m) D8 Grape (m) D8 Grape (m) D10 Spice (m) Daring (s) Brazil (s) Brazil (s) Mink (s) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Frosting (s) Daring (s) Passion (s) Passion (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Group One eye shape

Small Lid Large Brow

COOL TONES WARM TONES

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L9 Warm Sand (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L11 Misty Rose (m) Vanilla (m) Vanilla (m) Angelic (s) Angelic (s) Martini (s) Martini (s) Cashmere (s) Cashmere (s) Pink Champagne (s) Diamonds (s)

Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) Coco (s) D10 Spice (m) Frosting (s) Coco (s) Sugar Plum (s) Mink (s) Passion (s) Sugar Plum (s) Brazil (s) Passion (s) Brazil (s)

Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion

D3 Barley Berry (m) D3 Barley Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D9 Purple Haze (m) D8 Grape (m) Daring (s) D10 Spice (m) Sugar Plum (s) Brazil (s) Brazil (s) Mink (s) Frosting (s) Sugar Plum(s) Passion (s) Passion (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Group One eye shape

Small Lid Small Brow COOL TONES WARM TONES

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L9 Warm Sand (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L11 Misty Rose (m) Vanilla (m) Vanilla (m) Angelic (s) Angelic (s) Martini (s) Martini (s) Cashmere (s) Cashmere (s) Pink Champagne (s) Diamonds (s)

Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) Coco (s) D10 Spice (m) Frosting (s) Coco (s) Sugar Plum (s) Mink (s) Passion (s) Sugar Plum (s) Brazil (s) Passion (s) Brazil (s)

Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion

D3 Barley Berry (m) D3 Barley Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D9 Purple Haze (m) D8 Grape (m) Daring (s) D10 Spice (m) Sugar Plum (s) Brazil (s) Frosting (s) Mink(s) Brazil (s) Sugar Plum (s) Passion (s) Passion (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Group One eye shape

Mature Eye Shape COOL TONES WARM TONES

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L9 Warm Sand (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) Vanilla (m) Vanilla (m) Angelic (s) Angelic (s) Cashmere (s) Cashmere (s) Diamonds (s) Martini (s) Martini (s) Pink champagne (s)

Deep Shadow Fair- Medium Complexion Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D10 Spice (m) D10 Spice (m) Brazil (s) Brazil (s) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Passion (s) Passion (s) Frosting (s) Mink (s)

Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion

D3 Barley Berry (m) D3 Barley Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D10 Spice (m) D10 Spice (m) Brazil (s) Brazil (s) Mink (s) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Passion (s) Passion (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Group One eye shape

Deep Set COOL TONES WARM TONES

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L3 Bubble Gum (m) L6 Peach Pink (m) L4 Baby Pink (m) L7 Salmon (m) L8 Orchid (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) Vanilla (m) L11 Misty Rose (m)

Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D10 Spice (m) D10 Spice (m) Brazil (s) Brazil (s) Coco (s) Coco (s) Daring (s) Daring (s) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Passion (s) Mink (s) Passion (s)

Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion Deep Shadow Medium-Dark Complexion

D3 Barley Berry (m) D3 Barley Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D9 Purple Haze (m) D8 Grape (m) Brazil (s) D10 Spice (m) Daring (s) Daring (s) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Passion (s) Mink (s) Passion (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Group One eye shape

Asian COOL TONE WARM TONE

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L1 Sheer Pink (m) L9 Warm Sand (m) L9 Warm Sand L10 Buckwheat (m) L10 Buckwheat (m) L11 Misty Rose (m) L11 Misty Rose (m) Vanilla (m) Vanilla (m)

Deep Shadows Deep Shadows

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D8 Grape (m) D8 Grape (m) D10 Spice (m) D10 Spice (m) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Daring (s) Daring (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Group Two eye shape

Prominent/Protruding COOL TONES WARM TONES

Light Shadow Light Shadow

L11 Sheer Pink (m) L2 Taupe (m)

Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion Deep Shadow Fair-Medium Complexion

D3 Barely Berry (m) D3 Barely Berry (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D5 Nude Berry (m) D10 Spice (m) D10 Spice (m) Sugar Plum (s) Sugar Plum (s) Passion (s) Passion (s)

Deep Shadow Dark Complexion Deep Shadow Dark Complexion

D3 Barley Berry (m) D3 Barley Berry (m) D6 Purple Suede (m) D4 Soft Terracotta (m) D6 Purple Haze (m) D8 Grape (m) Sugar Plum (s) D10 Spice (m) Passion (s) Sugar Plum (s) Daring (s) Daring (s) Mink (s)

(m) Matte shades (s) shimmer shades

Smokey Eye Suitable for woman aged: 18-35 yrs (Depending on maturity of skin) Eye shapes: proportioned, small lid small brow, small lid large brow A Smokey eye is bold and intense, looks great with subtle lips and blush.

Ideal lipsticks: Velvet, Satin, Petal, Silk, nude, soft velvet, berry glaze

Ideal blush: Sahara A Smokey eye is by far one of the most requested looks There are many different ways of achieving this look. Choose colours with high pigment and blend with light shadows.

1. Apply perfect touch concealer to entire lid and under eyes. Press and

conceal with wet & dry foundation. 2. Apply a light eye shadow base on the mobile and stationary lid area. 3. Choose kohl pencil colour. Run along the lash line. 4. Apply eyeliner pencil from the inner corner towards the outer. 5. Smudge and blend lash lines. 6. Use a contrasting lighter colour of the eyeliner pencil to line the bottom lids.

Smudge well. You may use a small amount of eye shadow to get the complete smudge effect.

7. Choose a suitable Appli-shade: 102, 104, 111, and 113. Apply onto the region between the upper eyelids and the brow bones.

8. Select a deep shadow. A trick here to do smokey eyes is to mix the dark colour running the brush at your lash line, moving onto the crease of your eyelid.

9. Blend the eye shadow up and out with the brush. Do it in such a way that the eye liner disappears.

10. Use black or matching coloured mascara. This will further enhance the beauty of your eyes. Apply false lashes if applicable

Please note: A Smokey eye can be achieved in many different shades, simply follow the same procedure. Required tools:

Concealer/pressed powder (PTC, wet & dry powder) Kohl pencil, eyeliner any colour suitable (BE CREATIVE) Appli-shade pen for highlighting (appropriate light shade: 102,104, 110 and 113) Appli-shade pen for shading (appropriate coloured shade: 115,105, 111, 101, and 112) A base shade: Salmon, buckwheat, vanilla, warm sand, misty rose Eye shadow for shading use either: EL5 Chocolate,EL1 Ebony, D8 grape, D1 Saddlebrown, D2 Nutmeg

or D6 Purple Suede Blending eye shadow: D3 Barely Berry, L1 Sheer Pink, L6 Peach Pink, L2 Taupe, EL2 Emerald,

EL4 Midnight blue or EL3 Ocean blue. Mascara and false lashes optional (either individual or strip)

Natural Compatibles Smokey Eyes Kit: 1x Large compact 1xEL1 Ebony shadow 1x Black Liquid liner pen 1x L11 Sheer pink shadow 1x Vanilla shadow 1x Black Kohl pencil 1x115 Black Appli-shade pen 1x105 Lavender Appli-shade pen 1x Deep shadow brush 1xLight shadow brush

NUDE EYES

Suitable for: All ages. Eye shapes: All eye shapes. Because the eye is nude, you can create a bold lip or keep the entire makeup nude.

Ideal lipstick: Any.

Ideal blush: Any. The nude eye is a beautiful classic look that can freshen up a tired face. You can keep it nude all over with a nude lip and soft blush. Incorporate soft peachy pink tones or create a sexy bold look by adding a deep coloured lip.

Step 1 Hydrate eye area Step 2 Apply a thin layer of liquid foundation to the entire face and using a concealer brush

apply to the entire eye area. Step 3 Choose the appropriate perfect touch concealer for your client.

Dark circles either (C1 or C2). Apply concealer blending over the entire eye. Step 4 To set concealer, apply wet and dry. Step 5 Choose a light shadow and create a wash over the entire eye area.

Vanilla,L10 Buckwheat, L9 Warm Sand, L1 Sheer Pink and L11 Misty Rose, are ideal colours Step 6 Select a soft colour to contour the eye socket or apply as a lifter between the edges of

the eye and the brow. L7 Salmon, L6 Peach Pink, L4 Baby Pink, D5 Nude Berry, and L2 Taupe, are ideal colours

Step 7 Apply Appli-shade pen to the inner corners of the eye, under the brow bone, and under the lower lash bed. (102, 104,110 and 113), are ideal colours.

Step 8 Finish with a black or brown mascara on both top and bottom lashes.

CATS EYE Suitable for woman aged: 18-35 yrs (Depending on maturity of skin) Eye shapes: Proportioned, Asian Ideal lipstick: Any. Ideal blush: Any. This look has been around since the late 1950’s. It can be softened with a shadow liner and intensified when shadow liner is applied wet. Or you can use liquid liner and kohl pencils. The look is usually bold with a red lip to balance the intensity, with minimal blush.

1. Hydrate the eye area 2. Apply a thin layer of liquid foundation to the entire face and with a concealer brush and apply to the entire eye area. 3. Choose the appropriate perfect touch concealer for your client Example: Dark circles either C1 or C2. Apply with a concealer brush, blend over the entire eye. 4. Use either the loose powder in fawn, white silk or bisque. You can also the wet and dry to set the concealer. 5. Choose a light shadow and create a wash over the entire eye area. Ideal colours: vanilla, buckwheat, warm sand, sheer pink and misty rose 6. Choose a soft colour to contour the eye socket or use as a lifter between the edge of the eye and the brow. Ideal colours: salmon, peach pink, baby pink, bold, nude berry, and taupe. 7. Trace around your entire lash line with eyeliner. Use the eyeliner 8. Draw liquid eyeliner along your upper lash line only, extending the line beyond your eye, but not beyond your eyebrow. OR: Draw liquid eyeliner along your upper lash, then, give it a slight upward flick at your eye's outer edge. (Remember to create the flick going up toward the brow not out to the side) 9. finish the look with a light shade Appli-shade under the brow bone. The ideal colour would be 113 (gold snow)

KINDRED EYE

Suitable for woman aged: 18-35 yrs (Depending on maturity of skin) Eye shapes: All except hooded/mature Ideal lipstick: Any. Ideal blush: Any.

A kindred eye is a technique using eye-shadow, eyeliner, Appli-shades that are the same colour as the clients eye colour. It gives a bold, dominating effect to the eye area. There are no rules to how you technique the look but we recommend the following shades for the following eye colours:

Brown Eyes: Liner: Amber kohl, EL5 Chocolate & Charcoal Liquid Liner Pen Shadow: D1 Saddlebrown, D2 Nutmeg, L2 Taupe, Mocca Appli-shades: 101, 102, 103, 104, 110, 113 Green Eyes: Liner: Emerald shadow liner, Emerald kohl & Teal Green liquid liner pen Shadows: Emerald shadow Appli-shades: 110, 102, 113, 104 Blue Eyes: Liner: Sapphire kohl Pencil, Ocean Blue Liquid Liner pen, EL3 Ocean blue & EL4 midnight blue Shadows: EL3 Ocean Blue & EL4 Midnight Blue Appli-shades: 105, 102, 110, 113 and 104

CONTRASTING EYE

Contrasting eye is a technique designed to bring out the Colour of your eyes and create intensity. Using the colour wheel you can establish the most intense Colour by using the opposite colour to your clients eye colour. BLUE EYES- Bronze, salmon, peach, brown, copper and gold GREY EYES- Pink, peach, coral, burgundy HAZEL EYES- Green, purple, gold, pink, lavender BROWN EYES- Blue, teal, green, purple, pink GREEN EYES- Purple, pink, burgundy, brown

Hue: This is the most characteristic dimension, which identifies a colour by name. For example: Red, Yellow, Blue, etc. Every colour falls into a definite hue category when related to the spectrum or range of colours. In most cases, a colour’s hue can be given the name of one of the primary or secondary colours. Saturation: This dimension represents the relative intensity of hue. Colours of greater hue saturation can be described as being of higher intensity than duller (less saturation) colours of the same hue. Luminance: This dimension represents the brightness of illumination and locates a colour’s position in relation to a scale of greys between Black and White.

Cut-Crease Eye

Cut crease is also known as Arabic eye makeup. This look is intensely defined, bold and contrasting. The intensity is created by the application of a bold colour in the crease or hollow of the eye. White wash and contrast between light and dark colours creates the drastic and intense effect.

1. Apply foundation all over face and eye area 2. Conceal with either C1 or C2 all over eye, set with powder 3. Apply tape on an angle from corner of eye to brow 4. Start with a base colour that’s very light Apply to mobile and stationary lid finish at brow. 5. Add a light shimmer shadow over the mobile lid 6. Using a black gel liner, line along just above the crease until to just before the start of the brow. Smudge out the gel line from stationary lid toward the brow (Keep the line under the crease clean and sharp) 7. A third colour is optional and is usually blended over the crease line or along the mobile lid. Then Blend, blend, blend!!!! Use a liner along the lash bed depending on the look you wish to achieve you can start either at the inner corner and line the entire eye, be sure to finish the line along the tape. 8. Line the outer corner from the crease and join to the lash line to create a dark and shaped corner 9. Highlight under the brow bone, lash line and inner corners of eyes with an Appli-shade 10. Apply mascara & false lashes

MASCARA - Black, Dark Brown, Waterproof Black

o Rest the wand onto the lashes and “scissor” from side to side working the mascara into the roots of the lower lashes, apply a second coat if necessary.

o Ask the model to then close her eyes. Gently lift the lid then roll the wand under the lashes “scissor” from side to side to ensure that the lashes are fully coated, apply a second coat if necessary.

o Note - it is more important to work the mascara into the roots, and not the ends of the lashes, to prevent the eyes from looking bald.

o For sensitive eyes, tinting is suggested. o For hygiene reasons use a disposable mascara wand. o If the lashes are already thick and dark then mascara need not be applied. o Do not clog the lashes with too many coats of mascara. o Waterproof mascara is essential to use for wedding makeup. o The application of mascara on both lower and upper lashes creates symmetry and balance.

KOHL PENCIL

This application is optional but will certainly help to close up an eye which looks as though it is too round or open.

Sometimes the iris is quite small or high set showing a white gap between the iris and lower lid. It may be necessary to draw a fine line of kohl pencil just inside the lower lid.

Lipstick Purpose: 1. Feature focussing your primary communicating feature. 2. To maintain/restore youthful, feminine lips. 3. To detract from lines and aging around the mouth area.

Colour Selection:

Is your client warm or cool? Fan out your colours on your colour fan and hold up to your clients face just below the mouth and asking them to smile. Move fan from warm to cool checking what side of the fan best complements your client. The correct colours will lift the face and incorrect colours will drain and look flat. Also use this tool to see the depth of colour, break fan into light, medium, bright or dark colours to determine their best colour intensity.

APPLICATION HINTS SHEET

LIPSTICK – Lips are a focal part of Feature - Focusing™, please check the following details:

o Lip shape for symmetry and size - are the top and bottom lips equal? o Width of the mouth in relevance to the facial size - do the outer corners line up with the pupils? o Natural lip colour - pale, deep pink or red o Points to consider - age of the client, warm or cool toned, intensity preferred and personality. o Size of the lips whether they are large or thin - larger lips benefit from deeper colours and thinner lips

benefit from paler colours. o Use the lip colour swatch to see what your client’s best shades are. o Select the tone which most suites the skin. The incorrect colour will appear to enhance dark circles,

pimples, blemishes etc, or the skin can even appear blotchy, uneven in colour or maybe darker in shading.

o Natural Satin, Silk & Velvet - try on any client that wants a natural look.

LIP PRODUCTS: Lipsticks, Lip Definer Pencils, Lip Filler Pencils, Lip Lacquer, Cosmetic Sharpener,

07 Lip Brush, Lipsticks:

Pencils:

o Can change the colour of the lipstick when used as definer or filler, buy 2 pencils and get 3 shades form the 1 lipstick.

o Show the difference a cosmetic sharpener makes by demonstrating with a rounded pencil tip, then a sharpened pencil tip.

Lip Lacquer:

o Keep lipstick on all day. o Using pencil under lipstick will help keep lipstick on even longer and gives more options with

colour.

Application: Using a Natural Compatibles lip brush, apply a small amount onto your brush coating the lips in chosen lipstick. Using a lip brush gives more coverage. Finish with either lip gloss or Lip Lacquer to hold your lipstick in place.

Lip-gloss Natural Compatibles Lip Gloss is a vitamin enriched long lasting high shine gloss. Apply over lip liner lipstick and lip lacquer. Five shades available: (New shades coming soon)

Rose (cool tones) (Discontinued)

Coral (warm tones) (Discontinued)

Ice (Discontinued)

Sunset (warm tones)

Blossom (cool tones) Key ingredients and benefits

Mineral oil prevents water loss in the skin

Beeswax to nourish and act as an humectant

Aloe Vera & Vitamin E

Chamomile extract to soothe and hydrate

Lip Lacquer Natural Compatibles Lip Lacquer is a unique sealant for the lips. It prevents lips from smudging, fading and bleeding. Lip Lacquer keeps your lipstick on longer. Key ingredients and benefits

Vitamin E to lock in colour with combination of silica properties to allow the lipstick to give it a long fresh staying power.

Application Use the brush on applicator all over freshly lined and coloured lips. Apply liberally and allow drying time before applying natural compatibles gloss.