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ST. PETERSBURG

CRETE

DUBLIN

GLASGOW

LONDON

CANARY ISLANDS

GÖTEBORG

ROME

HELSINKI

DÜSSELDORF

ZADAR

SPLIT

BRINDISI

COMISO

BELGRADE

STUTTGART

PARIS

Whether you want to find the best airfares, avoid the pitfalls of car rentals, or ride the rails like a pro, we’ve got the tips for getting around Europe today. PLUS A look at the new routes and services that are making travel easier.

b y a m y fa r l e y, s a r a h l . s t e wa r t, a n d i n g r i d k . w i l l i a m s, w i t h a d d i t i o n a l r e p o r t i n g b y t o m s a m i l j a n

AMSTERDAM

BARCELONA

MARSEILLES

GENEVA

PISA

BERLIN

PRAGUE

OSLO

BIRMINGHAMHAMBURG

COLOGNE

MUNICH

HIGH- SPEED RAIL

Better, faster, more convenient (page 88).

NEW FLIGHTS

To up-and-coming destinations

(page 82).

NAVIGATING EUROPE NOW

Flights

Trains

Car-sharing programs

CAR SHARING

Possible in a lot more places (page 92).

BRATISLAVA

TR AV E L+LE ISU RE M AY 2014 81

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82 M AY 2014 TR AV E L+LE ISU RE

First there is the question of timing. According to Kayak, the most-affordable airfares to Europe last year were booked eight to 10 weeks before departure—so you should start researching tickets at least three months out. You’ll find even better prices if your travel dates are flexible. As a general rule, European fares rise for travel beginning in the second week of May and don’t fall again until September. Expedia reports that the least expensive months to fly to Europe are February, March, and November. If you can, look for tickets that depart for Europe on either a Tuesday or Wednesday and return on a Tuesday; they tend to be lower, according to Kayak’s research. (See “Fare Finders,” page 86, for our favorite sites for finding European airfares.)

Considering alternative destinations can also yield big savings. Kayak found that the average transatlantic fares into Dublin, Moscow, and Reykjavík were among the lowest last year, averaging just under $1,000. By comparison, tickets to Paris and Rome were more than $1,300. Be mindful of airport taxes and charges, which can account for a significant portion

of your airline ticket. The higher these fees are, the more difficult it is for airlines to drop prices and make a profit. The most recent Travel & Tourism Competitiveness Report from the World Economic Forum ranks the United Kingdom second highest in the world for airport fees (they can account for roughly $250 on a $1,000 ticket). Finland, Iceland, Spain, and Portugal are among the major European destinations with the lowest airport fees; you can expect more deals on tickets to these countries.

Smaller carriers have more competitive fares. Expedia’s analysis shows that prices on Air Berlin, Iceland Air, Air Europa, and Aer Lingus over the past two years have been 12 to 23 percent less than the market average. And keep an eye on low-cost carrier Norwegian Air, which is in the midst of launching direct flights from the United States (including New York, Fort Lauderdale, and Los Angeles) to European hubs such as London Gatwick and Copenhagen. With one-way tickets between New York and London for as low as $192, the carrier will have a tough time turning a profit. We’re rooting for it.

The Big TicketBooking a great fare to Europe has become increasingly difficult. Here’s how to bring down the cost of your next transatlantic flight.

Dalmatian CoastCroatia’s coast is even more accessible, thanks to Ryanair’s flights to the medieval city of Zadar from Paris, Manchester, Oslo, and GÖteborg, Sweden; Germanwings flies farther south, into Split, from cities such as Düsseldorf.

W H E R E T O G O N E X T

Crete Canary Islands Bratislava, Slovakia

MediterraneanRyanair established its first Greek base in the city of Chania, on Crete’s northern coast, and now flies there from Dublin. The airline also has routes to Sicily’s new Comiso Airport, close to the south coast’s remote beaches and fishing villages.

Canary IslandsThis Spanish archipelago off Africa’s northwest coast is a popular getaway for Europeans. EasyJet offers flights from Geneva to Tenerife, the largest of the seven main islands; Jet2.com has nonstops from the U.K. to beach-filled Fuerteventura.

Eastern EuropeAir Serbia’s expansion to the emerging cultural hot spot of Belgrade includes service from Prague; Etihad Regional and Swiss launched flights from Geneva. And Czech Airlines now connects Prague to Bratislava, Slovakia, on the Danube.

New intra-Europe airline routes mean better access to up-and-coming regions. A few on our radar:

Split, Croatia

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THE FINE PRINT

Obscure fees can mean a costly

surprise at the airport, so carefully read all terms and conditions on the airline’s website and be aware of service charges before booking. If you accidentally leave your boarding pass on the printer, for example, some carriers, such as Ryanair, charge nearly $30 to reprint it. And on Hungarian carrier Wizz Air, a carry-on can cost up to $27.

B U D G E T A I R L I N E S : W H AT T O C O N S I D E R B E F O R E YO U B O O K

SEAT ASSIGNMENTS

While legacy carriers such as

Air France and KLM charge extra for premium seats (aisles; more legroom), most budget airlines tack on fees for any seat. Prices range from a few dollars to about $42 per person, depending on the airline, flight duration, and type of seat. Be sure to reserve seats online—some airlines charge double for you to pick your seat at the airport.

AIRPORT LOCATION

Budget carriers often fly to

secondary airports, which can cost you time and money in reaching the city center once you land. Case in point: Germany’s Frankfurt-Hahn airport, 77 miles west of the city, is actually closer to Luxembourg city than to central Frankfurt. That’s almost a two-hour drive—$19 by bus or around $200 in a cab.

LUGGAGE FEES

Be aware of bag weight, since

standard allowances are often several pounds lighter than on legacy carriers. Compare KLM’s 50.7-pound allowance to Norwegian Air Shuttle’s 44 pounds. Each additional kilo (equal to 2.2 pounds, or about two pairs of pants) can cost upwards of $15 at check-in. Didn’t mention you’d be checking a bag? You’ll often pay double or more at the airport than if you’d prepaid.

COMFORT LEVEL

Be prepared for seats that may

not recline and, in many cases, an inch or two less legroom than you’d get in a typical economy seat. Also, don’t expect complimentary meal service—snacks and drinks (sometimes even water) are nearly always for purchase only.

We compared two round-trip flights leaving at similar times from London Gatwick to Rome on a weekend in early June, pitting British Airways

against budget giant EasyJet. The results may surprise you.

Legacy vs. Low-cost

BRITISH AIRWAYS vs. EASYJET

$203.07$9.80$82$5$3.50$303.37

Initial price

Preflight seat

selection

Checked bag

(51 pounds)

Snack

Water

Total

FA R E F I N D E R S Our favorite tools for researching European flights—and why we love them.

Adioso best for Allowing vague search terms such as “New York to Europe” or “departing any Friday.”

Expedia best for Offering up money-saving insights, such as suggestions for alternate airports.

Google Flight Explore best for The clear graphics showing the ideal dates to fly (google.com/flights/explore).

Kayak best for Its Explore function, which pinpoints how far your flight budget can go.

Momondo best for Including low-cost carriers in search results.

Rome2Rio best for Factoring in bus and train routes—flying isn’t always faster.

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Eurail is a longtime favorite among the backpacking set, but it’s also a great option for other types of rail rider, especially when spontaneity is a priority. The popular Eurail Select Pass—which covers up to four adjoining countries—can now be used to visit Turkey. Note that fees apply for

seat reservations (usually required on high-speed and international routes) and that passes can’t be used on certain trains, including the Circumvesuviana railway between Naples, Pompeii, and Sorrento. eurail.com; raileurope.com.

On Europe’s newest routes, speeds are higher (and prices lower).

The Fast Track

T R A I N T R AV E L : B E F O R E YO U G O1. BUY YOUR TICKET IN ADVANCE Skip the queues and ticket booths (many accept only credit cards with chips). In France and Belgium, e-tickets are fast replacing paper; in Sweden, they’re sent via text message.

2. PLAN AHEAD Porters are a rarity nowadays. If you can’t manage your luggage alone, make advance arrangements for extra assistance through your hotel or travel agent.

3. GET STAMPEDWhen you have a train ticket that’s not issued for a specific departure time, you’ll have to validate it at a machine near the platform before boarding. If you forget, the fine can run as high as $300.

PARIS BARCELONA

The final SNCF segment between Barcelona and the French border opened in December, cutting the 12-hour travel time between the French and Catalan capitals in half. sncf.com.

MARSEILLES PARIS

Ouigo, the Continent’s first budget high-speed service, costs a quarter of the average fare. The catch? Less-convenient stations, no catering, and online-only booking. ouigo.com.

HELSINKI ST. PETERSBURG

The Allegro trains have slashed the formerly 5½-hour trip from the Finnish capital and Russia’s western metropolis to a mere 3½ hours. vr.fi/en.ROME FLORENCE MILAN

Europe’s first private high-speed operator, Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori, has speeds and prices that are comparable to Italy’s state-owned Trenitalia, but better seats and service. italotreno.it/en.

In Milan and other major

cities, remember to validate your

ticket before boarding.

The 1931 Milano Centrale

train station.

Train passes


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H O T W H E E L S : E U R O P E A N

R E N TA L S

Alfa Romeo

Giulietta La vita è bella in

this sleek Italian

sports car. sixt.com.

Ferrari 458

Speciale When

nothing but a

supercar will do.

luxeofitaly.com.

VolkswagenUp A small,

fuel-efficient model that’s

a cinch to park.

europcar. com.

Peugeot 308 CC

See and be seen on

the French Riviera.

hertz.com.

Renault Clio

Europe’s reliable French

hatchback. avis.com.

answers a. No flammable materials (France) b. Moose crossing (Sweden) c. Speed camera ahead (Italy) d. Unbridged river crossing (Iceland) e. Fog warning (Czech Republic)

What to know before you hit the road.Car Rentals 101

INSURE YOURSELF

It’s not a given that your credit card or travel insurance will automatically cover you; many policies don’t extend to expensive vehicles or rentals in certain countries, such as Italy and Ireland. You may have to buy a collision damage waiver (CDW) from the rental agency.

Limited traffic zonesLook for circular red signs indicating

areas restricted to registered vehicles (common in Italy’s historic centers). Some zones are always off-limits, while others are affected only during certain seasons or times of day. Cameras record your car, and your ticket will arrive in your mailbox months later.

Proper equipmentSome countries require every car to contain specific items,

such as a warning triangle and a reflective vest, or snow chains during winter (regardless of actual weather conditions). Ask the agency what you’ll need and make sure nothing is missing.

Speed trapsBeware of cameras that tag speeding cars on highways and secondary roads. You might see signs depicting a police officer or a camera when entering a monitored area. If you’re pulled over, be prepared to pay your fine on the spot (cash or credit).

Congestion feesCertain big cities, including Stockholm and London, levy congestion charges for driving in certain zones during peak hours (typically between 7 a.m. and 6 p.m. on weekdays).

Road taxIf you plan to visit Central Europe (including Austria, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, and Switzerland), you will need a “vignette” sticker on your car as proof of road-tax payment. Ask your rental- car company for one, or buy one at the border.

CHOOSE AN AGENCY

Large companies, such as Hertz and Enterprise or Europe- based Sixt, are best equipped to handle special requests (automatic transmission; GPS devices; children’s car seats). Local agencies often have lower prices but may not offer 24-hour service if something goes wrong.

BOOK IN ADVANCE

When reserving online, check hours of operation for rental locations. Airports are usually open every day, but city-center sites may have limited hours, often closing for a few hours at midday and all day Sunday.

GET IN GEAR

Most rental cars in Europe come with a manual transmission. When you’re booking, assume that if a car isn’t specified as automatic, it isn’t. Big agencies usually have automatics, but expect to pay a premium of 10 to 50 percent.

Getting around the city Taxis Prebook a ride on cabforce.com in 71 European cities or use apps MyTaxi and Hailo. Fans of Uber with cell service abroad can use the app in 14 cities, including Milan and Munich, but foreign-transaction fees may apply. + Car sharing Zipcar members can now unlock vehicles in London and Barcelona. In Germany, choose between a BMW or a Mini Cooper with DriveNow, or try an eco-friendly Smart car with Car2Go (sign up in participating U.S. cities). In France, try the Buzzcar, a peer-to-peer car-sharing app. + Public transportation The free MetrO app offers preloaded guides for local transport in 400 cities. + Bike sharing Programs are ubiquitous and affordable in Europe: a day pass for Antwerp’s Velo bikes costs less than $5.

Can you guess what these European road signs mean (and where they’re from)?

See below for answers.

a. b. c. d. e.

T R A F F I C V I O L AT I O N S T O WAT C H O U T F O R

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