Lipid knowledge for the personal care industry

Natural StandardsCosmos, Natrue, ISO 16128

2

Global natural Personal Care market 2017: – US$ 12 billion, estimated to grow 10% CAGR 2018–2025 – US$ 460 billion, estimated to grow 3 % CAGR 2017-2022

Natural ingredients with a local approach and technology that does not compromise on efficacy

– Increased awareness of consumers on origin & safety of ingredients

• Clean beauty apps: Quel Cosmetique (FR), Officinea Clean Beauty (FR), Codecheck (DE), Goodguide (US)

• Clean beauty claims: “Free From” and minimalistic formulations

– Megatrends: Healthy and ethical living• Health & wellbeing, environmental concerns, sustainability,

animal welfare, fair for communities, biodiversity are some of the drivers

”Green” market – Key trends and drivers

3

Initial goal− Simplify communication to consumers− Avoid greenwashing with pseudo-natural products

1st Solution: local and regional private standards developed by NGOs with a commercial interest in selling their brand

2nd Solution: harmonization with a global initiative to avoid commercial bias – ISO 16128 (2016/2017)

Need for “Natural standards”

4

Definitions of Natural/Organic/Derived Natural/Derived Organic

Calculations specified

Processes taken into account− List of forbidden processes (in COSMOS only/For ISO: list of processes

that lead to non natural ingredients)− List of approved processes (in COSMOS, Natrue & ISO)

Solvents taken into account− List of approved solvents (in COSMOS, Natrue/Not in ISO)

Sustainability taken into account− In both COSMOS & Natrue/Not in ISO

Packaging criterias− In both COSMOS & Natrue/Not in ISO

Standards Valid for all standards/norms

5

Background: − 2002: Initiative started with 5 members to develop a harmonized

standard: Ecocert, Cosmebio, BDIH, Soil association, & ICEA− 2008: Publication and entering into force in January 2010− 01.2017:Certification only possible under COSMOS− Certification bodies: Ecocert Greenlife, Cosmecert (Cosmebio), Bureau

Veritas, Soil Association, ICEA…

Reach: European but becoming more worldwide: ex Australia, Korea

Main Principles: − Integrate Green Chemistry Principles− Toxicity & biodegradability taken into account

COSMOS: COSMetic Organic Standard

Standard

6

2 categories of natural ingredients: – PPAI (Physically Processed Agricultural Ingredients) – CPAI (Chemically Processed Agricultural Ingredients)

2 categories of formulations: – COSMOS Natural – COSMOS Organic (with precise conditions on content of organic and

natural ingredients)

AAK position:– AAK has made its ingredients approved by COSMOS and ECOCERT – Approved ≠ Certified as certified only valid for organic requires

auditing– Most are either CPAI or PPAI– Official list is only available on the website or at Ecocert Greenlife

COSMOS: COSMetic Organic Standard

Standard

7

Background− International Association founded by mostly German companies

(Weleda, Laverana (Lavera), Wala (Dr Hauschka), Logocos(Logona)…) in 2007

− Certification bodies: Only independent 3rd Parties

Reach: Mostly German but harmonized with NSF in the US

Main Principles: − Levels of ”Natural” & ”Derived Natural” according to categories− 13 Categories Defined− Synthetics (≠ Nature identical) not allowed, water not taken into

account as natural

Natrue Standard

8

2 main categories of ingredients: – Natural (Physically processed only) – Derived Natural (Chemical transformation)

3 categories of formulations: – NATURAL COSMETICS– NATURAL COSMETICS WITH ORGANIC PORTION– ORGANIC COSMETICS

AAK’s position:– Our ingredients are generally not submitted for approval to Natrue, but

most meet the Natrue criteria– We offer the option to fill in the documents on request

Natrue Standard

9

Natural & Organic Standards

10

Private standards as defined before dominate in Europe & US

Ideally have a globally recognized seal to define Natural & Organic :

ISO initiative ISO 16128:1 & 16128:2 :

Harmonization of definitions/criteria/calculations for natural/organic

4 Categories defined: – Natural/Derived Natural/Organic/Derived Organic

Processes taken into account

Based on Green Chemistry Principles

Official standards: wish for further global harmonization

11

ISO 16128-1:2016: Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products -- Part 1: Definitions for ingredients – Ingredients

− Determines definitions and classification of ingredients

ISO 16128-2:2017: Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products -- Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products

– Product Content− Calculates indexes (of ingredients) and product content (for finished products):

− Natural & Natural origin − Organic & Organic origin

AAK Position:– AAK active member of ISO (through AFNOR membership) in WG4

(TC-217: Cosmetics)– AAK statement with our interpretation:

• Organic: only Akogreen O• Natural: when physical process only• Derived Natural: when chemical process involved

ISO 16128 Norm

12

Despite the wish for global harmonization, the ISO Norm has been criticized, mainly by COSMOS, as being too weak

Private standards have a more comprehensive approach– Giving definitions and calculation of contents, but also

• Specifying a minimum for natural / organic products• Giving limitations for use of synthetic products

– Considering the formulation, packaging, animal welfare, sustainability.– Giving a guarantee with an annual certification process…– Work on ISO Norm is ongoing with more guidelines to come

ISO vs private standards

13

Consider which standard to use, or not….

Select ingredients that fit with the standard

Take a holistic view of the formulation– Ingredients used in larger quantities have a bigger impact

• Replacing 0.5% of an ingredient does not change the world or your formulation

– Some technologies are difficult to replace with natural technologies due to specific chemical and physical properties

• Example: silicones. You can often reduce the level without losing efficacy

– Sometimes emulsifiers and auxiliary ingredients need to be adjusted for best performance in a natural formulation

Going natural?

© 2018 AAK Sweden ABNo part of this presentation may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of AAK Sweden AB. Disclaimer: This presentation is intended for educational purposes only. AAK Sweden AB shall not be liable for any third-party claims or losses of any nature, including, but not limited to, lost profits, punitive or consequential damages.

14