Natural solutions - Schmidt · Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature -...
Transcript of Natural solutions - Schmidt · Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature -...
07.04.2014 Titel der Präsentation 1
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Florence Olechowski,
R&D Manager Cosmetics
April 2014
A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe
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1. Biodegradability
2. Solutions from nature
3. Cold process
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
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1. Biodegradability
2. Solutions from nature
3. Cold process
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
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Fifty-four percent of the shoppers
interviewed consider sustainability to be
one of their decision making factors and are
„leaning green” (biodegradable products)*
*Source: 2009 GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study
Nappy sacks, house and car care products, clothes…
A sales argument for cosmetic brands too:
- Biodegradable, vegan hair care by “Faith In Nature”
- Biodegradable, makeup remover wipes by “La Fresh”
- Biodegradable, chemical-free nail polish by “Priti”
Biodegradability
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
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Biodegradability - The silicone problem
D4 and D5 are persistent and have the potential to bioaccumulate
in aquatic organisms*
Properties in skin care
Inert for the skin
Colorless/odorless
Light feeling, sensory enhancer
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Biodegradability
*Source: http://www.ec.gc.ca/substances/ese/eng/challenge/batch2/batch2_556-67-2.cfm ii Environment Canada and Health Canada. Screening Assessment for the Challenge: Decamethyl
cyclopentasiloxane (D5). November
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Very quick penetration
Leaves a pleasant,
non- sticky satin feeling
Powdery skin sensation
Clean Label: silicone-free, no compromise in respect of texture.
BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Biodegradability
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BergaCare FG 5, a synergistic dosage of esters and unsaponifiables,
readily biodegradable.
BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care
Advantages in skin care
Light feeling, simulates the skin feeling of D5
Nourishes the skin: elasticity and softness
Transparent liquid, colorless/odorless,
with low viscosity
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Biodegradability
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Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion
Phase Product INCI Name %(w/w)
A
BergaCare FG 5
Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic
Capric Triglycerides
6,0
Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis
(Jojoba) Seed Oil 0,7
Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil 1,3
Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside 2,5
BergaSom Sun 75H Hydrogenated Lecithin 0,8
Pioneer 37 P Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2
B Glycerin Glycerin 1,0
Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100
C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Biodegradability – BergaCare FG 5
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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BergaSoft - modern surfactants
BergaSoft SCI 80: Readily biodegradable
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, 78% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 D)
BergaSoft SCG 22: Readily biodegradable
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, 83-86% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 B)
Advantages of BergaSoft
Mild surfactants
Sulfate-free, EO-free
Derivatives of renewable raw materials
Preservative-free
Good performances
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Biodegradability
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Base for creamy rinse-off formulation
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
BergaSoft SCG 22 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 5,5
BergaSoft SCI 80 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 17,4
Vegarol 1618 50:50 Cetearyl Alcohol 3,3
Palmac 50-18 Stearic acid 5,5
Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100 B Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Biodegradability - BergaSofts
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
1. Biodegradability
2. Solutions from nature
3. Cold process
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Solutions from nature
* http://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/skincare/Demand-for-Organic-Beauty-to-Grow-to-Over-13-Billion-by-2018-Report-Says-213160491.html
The global demand for organic personal care was over
$7.6 billion in 2012 and is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018.*
Consumers are now thinking carefully about resources
The boom of the “green” labels
Even exclusive brands are claiming to be eco-friendly or chemical-free.
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature
BergaCare SB - refined shea butter:
BergaCare SB - different forms available to fit the application:
crude, refined, organic, high melting point, olein
Advantages at a glance
Natural emollient
High percentage of unsaponifiable matter
Controlled production for premium quality
Wide range of applications
Good origin with marketing opportunities
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Base for body butter containing 15% shea butter
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature - BergaCare SB
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
BergaCare SB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 15,0
Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 6,0
Onagra Oil Oenothera Biennis Oil 4,0
BergaCare EM-14 Isopropyl Myristate 8,0
BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Caprylic Capric Triglycerides 6,0
Vegarol 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2,0
BergaBest GS SE Glyceryl Stearate SE 3,0
BergaCare EM-CP Cetyl Palmitate 4,0
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3,0
BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 0,5
B demin. Water Aqua up to 100
C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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BergaScrub - natural alternative to PE/PP beads
PE/PP are produced from petrochemical origin
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature
Advantages at a glance
Natural, ecologically sound, renewable,
non-GMO, readily biodegradable
Different particle sizes available abrasive as wished
High melting point
Competitive
Odorless, colorless no effect on final formulation
Smooth surface painless
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature - BergaScrub
Base for transparent peeling shower gel
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
BergaScrub 350 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1,0
BergaSoft SCG 22 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 8,0
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 6,0
Cocamido Propyl Betaine Cocamido Propyl Betaine 5,0
Guar Gum Guar Gum 0,5
Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum 0,8
demin. Water Aqua up to 100
Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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Phosphatidylcholine (PC)
12-18% in standard lecithin
BergaSom range:
• 50 to 90% PC
• Classic or hydrogenated
Suits every application
Available as a product of soy or sunflower seeds non GMO
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature
Chemical structure of phosphatidylcholine
BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine
INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin
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BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine
INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin
High PC content:
Source of linoleic acid
Enhances penetration of active
ingredients
Anticomedogenic
Source of choline
Supports formation of ceramide I
Physical features: liposomes,
nano-emulsion, lipogel, …
High PC content, hydrogenated :
Protects the skin
Stabilizes TEWL
Conditions the horny layer
No oxidation possible
Physical features: lipid membrane
structure, liposomes, …
Advantages at a glance
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature
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Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Solutions from nature - BergaSom
Phase Product INCI Name %(w/w)
A
BergaCare FG 5
Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and)
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
6,0
Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis
(Jojoba) Seed Oil 0,7
Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil 1,3
Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside 2,5
BergaSom Sun 75H Hydrogenated Lecithin 0,8
Pioneer 37 P Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2
B Glycerin Glycerin 1,0
Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100
C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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1. Biodegradability
2. Solutions from nature
3. Cold process
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
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Cold process
90% of the energy is used for heating the water and oil phases to 75-80°C*
Saves time, since no cooling is needed
Sensitive ingredients can be added earlier
Significantly lower overall carbon footprint
for the companies/brands
Requires special raw materials from fatty phase to emulsifiers
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
* Russel Cox: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/methodsprocesses/premium-Cold-Processing-of-Emulsions-218867771.html
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BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers
INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin
Advantages at a glance
Highly innovative and exclusive compound
Powerful emulsifying and efficient thickening properties
Natural, renewable
Can be processed cold but is also heat resistant
Easy to use (wide pH range, no incompatibility even at a high percentage
electrolytes or UV filters, all kinds of oil polarities…)
Neutral feeling on the skin for elegant final skin care products
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
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BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers
INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin
Conditions
Realized with approx.
30% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40
(caprylic capric triglyceride),
3% BergaMuls ET 1, made up
to 100% with distilled water.
Brookfield measurement
SP 5, 20 rpm
Temperature does not affect the performance of BergaMuls ET 1
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process - BergaMuls ET 1
Base for foot cream with 15% Urea
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
BergaMuls ET 1 Beta Glucan (and) Pectin 2,4
BergaCare SB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 4,0
BergaCare EM-16 Isopropyl Palmitate 4,0
BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Caprylic/capric Triglycerides 4,0
Pionier® NP 37 G Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2
B
demin. Water Aqua 67,4
Glycerin Glycerin 2,3
Urea Urea 15,0
C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin
INCI name: Lysolecithin
Hydrolyzation: mild and natural
process less steric hindrance
2 grades available :
BergaMuls HL 25 and 50
Emulsions just
after production
Standard lecithin (STD)
vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40
3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50
77% demin. water
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
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BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin
INCI name: Lysolecithin
Emulsions after
centrifugation
Hydrolyzation: mild and natural
process less steric hindrance
2 grades available :
BergaMuls HL 25 and 50
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
Standard lecithin (STD)
vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40
3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50
77% demin. water
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Advantages at a glance
High level of hydrolysis
Good emulsification performance
Efficient wetting properties
Promotes dispersion
Multifunctional
Cold-processable emulsifier
Emollient for the skin
Usable in spray formulations
Anti-static agent/conditioner for the hair
BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin
INCI name: Lysolecithin
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process - BergaMuls HL 50
Base for cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 20,0
Cocamido Propyl Betaine Cocamido Propyl Betaine 8,0
BergaCare SB-RO Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil 1,0
BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 1,0
B
Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum 0,3
Glycerin Glycerin 2,0
demin. Water Aqua up to 100
C Citric Acid up to wished pH
NaCl Sodium Chloride 0,8
D Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
BergaCare SB-RO - refined shea olein
Advantages at a glance
Natural liquid emollient cold-processable
High percentage of unsaponifiable matter
Controlled production for premium quality
Novel applications possible, such as rinse-off
formulations
Good origin with marketing opportunities
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process - BergaCare SB-RO
Base for hair oil repair
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
BergaCare FG 5
Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl
Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric
Triglycerides
25,2
BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 2,0
BergaCare SB-RO Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil 36,0
Jojoba Oil Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5,0
BergaCare EM-14 Isopropyl myristate 16,1
Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 9,2
Abricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca kernel Oil 3,0
Tocopherol acetate Tocopherol acetate 0,5
Ethanol Ethanol 3,0
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process
BergaSoft SCG 22 - soft sulfate-free surfactant INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
Advantages
Liquid surfactant cold-processable
Based on renewable raw materials
Transparent under certain pH conditions
Contains no preservative
Improves rinsing properties of the finished product
Fresh feeling on the skin
Easy to thicken
High foaming performance
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Natural solutions for modern formulators
Cold process - BergaSoft SCG 22
Base for micellar water, cold-processed
Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w)
A
Wasser Aqua 91,5
Pentylene glycol 1,2 Pentandiol 3,0
Glycerin Glycerin 2,0
BergaSoft SCG221 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 0,6
BergaCare EM-HE71 PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0,9
Noedermyl ®2
Glycerin, Water, Methylglucoside
Phosphate, Copper
Lysinate/Prolinate
1,0
Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract (and)
Water 1,0
Preservative/Fragrance - q.s.
Suppliers : 1 Berg + Schmidt
2 Induchem/Permcos
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
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Silicone-free light touch emulsion
Creamy rinse-off formulation
Body butter with 15% Shea Butter
Transparent & Sulfate-free peeling shower gel
Foot cream with 15% Urea
Cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners
Hair Oil repair
Micellar water
Natural solutions for modern formulators
Formulations
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You find us at
hall A1, stand 1B60
07.04.2014 Titel der Präsentation 35
Thank you for your attention.
Berg + Schmidt
Florence Olechowski
R&D Manager Cosmetics
An der Alster 81
20099 Hamburg
Phone: +49( 0)40 284 039-0
www.berg-schmidt.de A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe