Nagesh Project Report

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    ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

    I would like to thank Mr. S.C. Khajuria who allowed

    me to enter the factory and introduced me to everyone

    in the factory. He is a very cooperative person and his

    cooperative attitude helped me to complete our project

    in a very efficient way. Lastly, I am also obliged to

    Mrs. Sukhpal Kaur for providing me valuable

    suggestions.

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    COMPANY PROFILE

    NAME OF THE COMPANY: Star Suiting

    ADDRESS: PhaseVII, Focal Point, Near Surindera Paper Mills, Ludhiana

    FACTORY AREA: 1,75,000 Sq. feet

    Established in 2007 byMr. Karan Taluja

    BUYERS: DU PAREILAU MEME, CATIMINI,

    KENZO, G.S.A,

    OXBOW, SARL WAM.

    PRODUCTIONCAPACITY: 8000

    Pieces per day. (Fine

    knit / coarse knits).

    With the capacity of3600 Spindles

    Manufacturing 2500 kg of various Wool/Acrylic/Silk/Viscose blends Total earnings 50 CRORE, where 40 CRORE from exports. Certified with ISO 9001:2000 for quality system management. Company has own show room at Civil Lines, Ludhiana FOR RETAIL SALE. For buyers STAR SUITINGS (INDIA) KNITWEAR has a SHOW ROOM.

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    WORKFORCE:

    Employee detail male female

    Supervisor/Manager 15 -Administrative staff 28 -

    Q.C 4 -

    Engineer staff 2 -

    Workers 1201 112

    1250 112

    This unit has a production capacity of approximately. 12 lakh pieces annually for coarse and fine

    knits each .This company in Northern part of India is a composite unit for producing all types of

    sweaters & T-shirts.

    Most of the Fabrics are made in house like Single as well as Double Jacquard, Fleece, Velour,

    Terry, Flat bed Rib, Auto Striper, Lycra, Waffles, Thermals, Mesh, Shinny, Fabrics, Lurex, P.

    Knit, Honey Combed, Pique, Self Jacquards, Anti Pilling, Polar Fleece, Boukley, Brushed

    Fabrics, & Ribs etc.

    The company was adjudged biggest exporter of the Year in 1968 of woollen garments.Consecutively for two years.

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    THE PROCESS : MERCHANDISISNG

    Firstly I discuss about the merchandising process the points to be followed by a

    merchandiser are as follows:-

    ENQUIRY/PRESENTATION PLANNING INTERMEDIATION SHIPMENT

    First order is received from the buying house then Costing per piece and its initial fits are done,

    Enquiry is made from the old order and Instructions in the enquiry are given like Advertisement

    Sample, Hang Tag, Hangers, and Packaging Instruction etc.

    To attract a new BUYER, A Request to various buying houses is sent. All the products are

    shown to them and they are provided with all the necessary information.

    FABRIC COST: (actual cost of the fabric)

    BASIC TRIM: (cost of accessories like Zipper, button, Hangtag, Hanger, Label, Size Label, LD

    bag, wash label etc)

    ADDITIONAL TRIM: embroidery, satin ribbon, dory, beads, and lasses etc

    FABRICATION: tailoring cost for the production of per piece

    PROFIT: depends upon company policy and its reputation

    There is usually a Mediator between the buying house and the firm. To get approvals for the size

    set, advertisement sample and pre production samples are Sent to them. Daily production charts,

    finishing reports are also sent. Then if approved a call is made for a pilot run from initial hundred

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    to two hundred pieces . Then initial, middle, pre final and subsequently final inspection request is

    offered.

    Lastly, final nod from the counter part (i.e. quality assurance man from the buying house) is

    made and then he requires packaging list and in-voice.

    Merchandising department

    Star Suitings (India) has two units one is at PhaseVII, Focal, Point, NEAR Surindra Paper

    Mills, Ludhiana. It comprises of all the departments spinning, knitting, dyeing and printing. One

    of the main departments is merchandising department which is in Focal Point. It contains 10-12

    merchandisers. I was under Mr. CHAMAN LAL (Head Merchandiser). He guided us throughout

    the project.

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    Organizational Structure

    Chief head Mr. Karan Taluja

    Sampling manager Mr. Durga Dass

    Assistant sampling manager Mr. Ibrahim khan

    Senior merchandisers Mr. RAMAN

    Assistant merchandisers Mr.Vijay, Mr.Mandeep

    Workers

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    General workflow of Merchandising

    Department

    Vendor first receives the purchase order (P.O) from the buyer.

    Then DCPO (Distribution center purchase order) is received.

    Fabric is referred with the sample and sent for approval.

    When fabric is approved it goes through:-

    FPT (Fabric package test)

    & GPT (Garment package test)

    After samples of FPT & GPT are approved Proto sample is sent for approval

    First bulk sent for approval

    Comments received for first bulk

    Fit sample is sent after first bulk

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    After approval of fit sample seal sample is sent. This includes (specs, measurements,

    construction, seams etc.)

    Add sample is sent if requirement from buyer

    Pre-production sample is sent

    TOP (Top of production) sample is sent for approval

    Pre- production meeting is held with all the managers. If faults observed is corrected there and

    then.

    Cutting

    Stitching

    Inspection

    Finishing

    Packing

    Final Inspection

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    Various stages in which approvals are needed

    by production merchandiser

    Once the sampling file is forwarded to the production merchandiser, they coordinate and

    communicate with the buying agency. Production merchandiser asks for the calculation of fabric

    consumption. Master Ji calculates the fabric requirement and fabric is ordered to unit for knitting

    and dyeing. Knitting department is first instructed for the first bulk in actual colour, layout & any

    wash or test required by the buyer. Once the first bulk is approved knitting is given go ahead and

    comments are incorporated if any. Side by side bulk trims are ordered from the recommended

    source. Fabric comes to production floor after going through FPT. Next step of the merchandiser

    is to send fit sample, sealer, yellow tag for approval mainly for construction and measurements.

    Trim cards are made for their approval. Side by side strike off for embroidery and mocks (sleeve

    & rib) are crossed to the buyer for approval. First week is the lead time for awaited comments.

    After this PP sample (from FOB) is send for approval. Pre production meeting is held at this

    stage to match the actual material with the standards andcomments are given if any. Deadlines

    are given to all the departments in order to chase shipment date. Time and action is prepared by

    merchandiser, production in charge and all the queries regarding the particular style is discussed.

    After pp, size set approved file is transferred to production manager. Finally the production is

    geared and inspection is carried in between.

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    SPINING SECTION :-

    Star Suitings (India) group has own spinning mill with the capacity of 3600 Spindles

    Manufacturing 2500 kg of various Wool/Acrylic/Silk/Viscose blends.

    Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn (or thread, rope, or cable).

    Fibers cannot be used to make clothes in their raw form. For this purpose, they must be

    converted into yarns. The process used for yarn formation is spinning. Eventually, the techniques

    were refined and industrial spinning started manufacturing yarn in various ways.

    In the following shown picture raw fiber blend through ball head auto machine this machine raw

    fiber.

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    Production DepartmentWorkflow in STAR SUITINGS (INDIA).

    Fabric

    Fabric checking

    Cutting issue

    Bundle ticketing

    Cutting checking

    Bundle ok

    Stitching

    Computer data

    Thread cutting

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    Re-checking

    Pressing

    Measurement

    Final checking

    Packing

    Price ticketing

    Folding

    Shipment

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    KNITTING DEPARTMENT HEIARCHY

    The fabric merchandiser calculates consumption of the fabric. Then they place the order for the

    knitting department head. The merchandiser used a proper format which include: name of the

    buyer for whom fabric is knitted, season, style no, fabric order date, fabric description (honey

    comb),count, gsm, dia,fab(ready) in kgs, this format is signed by Merchandiser. .

    Knitting department is equipped with 30 different circular machines with different gauge and

    diameters. These machines are capable to producing all knitted structure in any required width

    and weight. Machines are equipped with lycra feeders. After the yarn is inhouse, it is stored

    anywhere the place available. Then the superwiser issues the yarn to the knitted department.the

    master of the knitting deprtment knit the trims such as: collar, cuff, tape simultaneously.

    According to the formet.

    DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNITTING MACHINES USED:

    Single jerky machine 24 gauge-mayar interlock machine Mayar foma interlock machine Computerized auto-stripper mini jacquard Pillotelli setting (plutch) Sunda circular knitting Well knit machine Collar flap machine Sunda circular machine(single jersey+single pk) 24 gauge single jersey machine Flat bedmachine

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    STORE ROOM

    It principally holds 3 types of goods:

    1. Open width fabrics on rolls of cardboard.

    2. Tubular fabrics.

    3. Garment parts like cuff and collars for the T-shirts.

    Total number of racks which are used for fabric storage as well as cuff and collar storage is 14.4

    racks had 6 partitions and 10 racks had 4 partitions and mostly the highest rack had the stock

    surplus.

    . Before sourcing fabric inspection is to be done

    Receive fabric from fabric finish department

    Fabric is analyzed (GSM, shrinkage, temp. settings, other as demanded)

    The stores keeps the stock of trims and accessories likethreads, labels, hand tags, buttons, etc;

    packing materials likepoly bags, cartons, hand bags, etc; spares of the machines etc. the

    merchandiser makes a trims card where all the trims that are to be used in the style are attached.

    The trim card gives detail regarding color, style no., size, content, buyer, and vendor. The trims

    are ordered keeping in mind 5% rejections subjecting to defects and wastage during use and

    check. The trim department ordered the trims as given in swatch card from buyer nominatedsupplier.

    After the trims are received then it is sent for buyer approval and only after their approval bulk

    order for trims are placed. The trims are in house much before the production.

    Swatch card is sent to the merchandiser containing all the trims which are ordered and now

    checked so that they have a receiving which implies the approval from them.

    PRODUCTION ISSUES

    The trims are now packed and kept in racks according to style no. the trims are issued to the

    production department from here only and prepre the delivery challan and keeps the challan to

    ready to issue to the production.

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    PATTERN MAKING GRADING DEPARTMENT

    Patternmakers make the pattern according to the specification sheet. They makes the pattern on

    the cardboard with seam allowances and in every sizes- S, M, XL.XXL,XXXL.

    IMPORTENT POINTS IN PATTERN MAKING

    Correct measurements. Proper shape Allowances for shrinkage Notches and drill marking Correct grain line.

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    FLOW CHART FOR PATTERN MAKING PROCCEDURE

    START

    Receive specification

    Receiving pattern from pattern

    Pattern grading

    Pattern correction, and send for the

    Cut ratio planning

    Marker planning according to the cut ratio

    Send to cutting room for

    Send to GM for costing

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    CUTTING ROOM

    The cutting department at Star Suitings (India). is sub divided into four departments:

    CAD Spreading Cutting Bundling

    FLOW CHART FOR CUTTING PROCCEDURE

    START

    Sampling

    CAD

    Fabric issue

    Cut planning

    Relaxation

    Spreading

    Ticketing

    Cutting

    Bundling

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    The base pattern which prepare on sampling stage graded the help of CAD and then the marker

    planning and making was done as this a solid i.e. Plain color and the fabric were efficiently

    utilized.

    CUTTING

    Knit fabric usually comes in tubular form, so the first step is always to cut it open. The cutting

    process for striped fabric is very difficult. Unlike solids dyed fabrics, the striped fabric lay

    requires the plies to be constantly matched for alignment of stripes within the spread, after every

    step to eliminate out any inter ply shift and subsequent inaccurate cutting.

    Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager.

    They used a proper format which includes following detail:

    Color Style Purchase order Measurement sheet.

    Accurate cutting facilities sewing and improves garment quality. In Star Suitings (India). For

    normal scissors are used to avoid any mismatch. Cutting efficiency is calculated by CAD Lab.

    The mini marker is used for the minimization of fabric 17 to 20%.

    Bundle ticket

    After the pieces are sorted the bundle card is generated which contains the information

    like the name of the buyer , style, shade, size, number of pieces etc. and the bundle card is

    attached to the respective bundles.

    A bundle consists of all the pieces of the same size. Even if in a layer there are 2 fronts of small size then the bundle no for both changes.

    Dispatch

    Inspection

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    For 1 particular garment all the pieces have same ticket no. The bundle no is decided by the operator. Once the ticketing is done then an operator looks for the strings that are put during the

    spreading time so that no defective pieces go to sewing room.

    The cut parts are then issued to the PRINTING department or EMBROIDERY department. Cut

    parts are given from cutting department to the sewing room as and when need arises.

    EMBROIDERY

    Once the cutting has been finished then they are sent to the embroidery department. The

    merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will be sent to the

    merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the factory and then they show

    the both sample and specification.

    PROCESS FLOW

    Receipt of instruction sheet Receipt of pattern Receipt of cut panels/Receipt of ready garments Temporary storage Receipt of trims from stores Marking check panels Cutting and marking as per placement given instruction sheet Framing check panel size & segregation panels of one size Load framing with canvas/fusing Floppy transfer to embroidery to machine Loading/unloading of the machine, load the machine with framed panels Carry out embroidery operation Thread cutting Thread/canvas/fusing cutting checking

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    Check measurement quality of the design Spotting on marking & ring mark Issue embroidery ready pieces (bundle entry mark chalan)

    SEWING

    Proper planning the line and the correct no. of person and machine, employed is the key

    objective in this stage. The production system was followed by the Shobhagia Export Ltd. For

    stitching is switch track system.

    Operation breaks down for CHAPS style no. # 14016RH

    PRESSING

    In Star Suitings (India) pressing of the garment garments is done after washing that just a mild

    one to reduce creases that have come due to wash. The equipment used for the pressing is design

    to control the heat moisture and the pressing applied during the pressing operation.

    INICIAL CHEAKING

    Here the garment fully inspected by the workers from inside and outside to check for any defect

    if occurring. Defect if arising they marked with a white color sticker to depict where the fault is.

    If the garments are to repaired then they are put into tub for the repairing section and if any

    mending arises it is rectified there and then.

    Defect that occur during initial checking

    Oil stain

    Extra thread

    Open/ skipped stitch

    FINAL CHECK

    Here the workers just have the outside garment checking. When though garment is passed

    though the final inspection then they folded and price tickets are attached to the neck tape with

    the help of machine.

    DESPATCH DEPARTMENT

    The dispatch department is the final department through which a product passes before being

    shipped off.

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    The department gets the data from PURCHASE ORDER; which includes the schedule for the

    whole month & has details like

    Order number

    Details of the order

    Buyer name

    Number of pieces

    Date of despatch

    The department also gets the data from the PO for the various specifications of the

    packaging for the particular order like:

    TYPE OF PACKINGRegular packing

    Hanger packing

    o The tape to be used is also specified by the buyer.Number of tags

    o The number of tags is also specified by the buyer and this has to be strictly.

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    CONCLUSION

    While undertaking study I have understood the working of various departments which are

    involve product development process, in whole process, there is lack of coordination between

    departments especially with sampling departments limits their responsibility with respect only to

    develop sample.

    Improper sampling room layout also hampers much of sample development process as it is

    totally disorganized and one find it difficulties to track any samples on time, racks are not

    properly organized, all these creates fuzz in speeding the sample development process.

    On the whole company have many of activities in-house needed for product development like

    knitting department, dyeing department, printing department, finishing department, and has

    developed many formats to ensure that product development should match buyer standard, but

    the fact is that company lack in the proper implementation.