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The Gig IssueWhere to get your music fix

Nagasaki Rocks | 99 Islands | Animal Antics | The Mirraz

nagazasshi

Volume 8 Issue 6May/June 2016

Japan is a hard-working country, with its workers often reticent about making use of their an-

nual leave. Golden Week, the cluster of national holidays at the begin-ning of May, is the exception. People nationwide pack their bags and take to the highways and Shinkansen for a vacation.

It is with this in mind that we bring you two travel related articles in this issue. For anyone expecting visitors from abroad, our survival guide fea-tures practical tips to minimize stress while enjoying your time together (p. 10). For local travel inspiration, read about Kujukushima (p. 8) and plan a day-trip to this beautiful island network.

This issue we also sing the praises of Nagasaki’s live music scene with our live house guide (p. 12), as well as feature a review of a recent gig at one of its smaller live houses (p. 14).

Finally, we want to raise awareness of an incident that has shaken the Nagasaki international community. Last September, Sasebo-based Aidre Mattner was drugged and raped while holidaying in Seoul. Her attacker has not yet been apprehended, so she is bravely campaigning to bring him to justice. Please visit her campaign page to learn more, and donate if you can. 8 gofundme.com/justiceforairdre

Jennifer Edwards,Editor-in-chief

www.nagazasshi.com

Editor-in-chiefJennifer Edwards

Deputy Editor-in-chiefJessica Richard

EditorRosie Fordham

Assistant EditorsLorna HansonMax Epstein

Copy EditorWill Powell

Layout and DesignDylan NordstromLaurel Williams

Public RelationsConor Hughes

TreasurerKarl Po

Contributors

nagazasshi

Dan Cohen Jennifer EdwardsRosie FordhamLorna HansonConor HughesBeatrix HuttonNaomi Jenkins

Aaron Kikugawa Char MarieWill Morgan

Karl PoJessica Richard

Will TileyMatthew Wypycha

FoundersAndrew Morris

Matthew Nelson

Cover photo: Rock&Roll Anonymous

Photo credits (clockwise from top): Lemurs Jessica Richard; Crowd Pleaser

Anonymous; Mirai Jessica Richard

Get the low-down on live music venuesNagasaki Rocks 12

The ultimate survival guideHosting Friends & Family in Japan 10

The beauty of the 99 Islands explored

Gig Review

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Kujukushima

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Cuddly creatures and curious crittersAnimal Antics

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8

Events

Contents

“The Mirraz” at Studio DO!

Nihon(go) on the Go 15

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Waterfall Glade Rhododendron FestivalApril 2 - May 5, Urami Waterfall, OmuraEnjoy the beauty of Omura’s 30m tall Urami Waterfall, juxtaposed against 6,000 Rhododendrons. Truly a sight to behold, this quiet cove looks like some-thing out of a fairy tale.8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/event/51775

Yukinoura WeekMay 1 - 4, Yukinoura, Oseto, SaikaiA festival celebrating the Umiyama river’s bounty. The festival features local handmade goods and produce. 8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/event/51523

Mikawachi Pottery and Porcelain FestivalMay 1 - 5, Mikawachi, SaseboObserve the crafting of handmade pot-tery and porcelain. Daring observers can try their hand at the potter’s wheel. There’s even an auction thrice a day, sell-ing off local artists’ latest creations.8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/event/51772

Huis Ten Bosch Rose FestivalMay 9 - June 2, Huis Ten Bosch Huis Ten Bosch houses over one million roses. Its gardens are packed with roses of every shape and color. Swing by in the evening for breathtaking light shows.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/118

Shin-Kamigoto Firefly FestivalMay 20 - June 12, Goto Islands, Throughout Shin-Kamigoto The serene countryside of the Goto Islands is a thriving natural habitat for fireflies, and summer is when they come out in force. The festival is centralized along the banks of the Aiko River, and is rife with food, fun, and the dancing lights of countless fireflies.8 nagasaki-tabinet.com/event/51533

Nagasaki Hydrangea FestivalMay 25 - June 16, Throughout Na-gasaki CityThe Hydrangea blossom has long been associated with romance, love, and af-fection. For these few weeks in late May through early June, enjoy over 5,000 of these flowers in full bloom throughout Nagasaki as well as celebrations at the festival’s various focal points. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/103

Obama Jacaranda FestivalThroughout June, Festival Peak: June 15, Obama Onsen AreaWith the blossoming of the Jacaranda trees, Obama comes to life with vibrant celebrations. The festival peaks on June 15 with notoriously cheap food and drink, farmer’s markets and even a fash-ion show! A live concert is performed later in the month on June 21.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/539

Events

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Event of the MonthTo No Sumi Waterfall Park FestivalMay 4, To No Sumi Waterfall Park, Minamishimabara, ShimabaraA relatively “young” festival that only began in 1972, the Waterfall Park Festival celebrates the natural beauty of the To No Sumi waterfall. The free event features competitions and foods such as Somen Nagashi noodles served in a trough that patrons pluck out and enjoy.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/597

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Forget the snow monkeys of Nagano or the deer of Nara. You can get up close and personal with an array of cuddly, and not so cuddly, critters right here in Nagasaki! Pet a capybara, waddle with penguins, gallop through the waves or simply sit and watch the native fish - find out where in our guide below!

Animal Activities near 99 IslandsYou’re bound to learn a thing or two at Kujukushima Aquarium Umi-kirara. Touchable rock-pools, a jellyfish dome and pearl harvesting, among plenty of other activities, allow visitors to explore the local underwater environment. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/641

If you want to get even wilder, check out the Zoological and Botanical Garden Mori-kirara. Gaze at penguins swimming overhead, hand-feed an elephant - there are plenty of unique experiences to be had.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/640

Cuddle a CapybaraGreat for those who want to get up close and personal with animals, the Nagasaki Bio Park provides visitors with countless opportunities to pet, hold, and feed its many creatures. Watch squirrel monkeys swing from tree to tree, or offer raisins to a brown lemur sitting on your shoulder! Capybaras are the park’s mascot, and in winter you can see them bathing in a special onsen. Meanwhile, Pet Animal World, immediately next to the Bio Park, gives the opportunity to pet and cuddle domesticated animals in a relaxed environment.

8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/230

Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association（一社）長崎県観光連盟

8 http://www.visit-nagasaki.com

Photo credits: all photos are the property ofNagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association

Kujyukushima Pearl Sea Resort

Sasebo City

Nagasaki Bio ParkSaikai City

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Visit a Record-Breaking AquariumDon’t let its sleepy suburban location fool you – the Nagasaki Penguin Aquarium recently broke the record for housing the largest number of penguin varieties in the world. As well as being able to watch an array of penguins happily waddle around the 4-meter-deep Sub-Antarctic Penguin Pool, you can also enjoy the daily feeding time frenzy. The Nagasaki Penguin Aquarium also boasts an impressive collection of the prefecture’s other marine denizens, along with exotic Mekong giant catfish from Thailand.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/217

Gallop Along the BeachPerfect for everyone from first time riders to horse-whispering professionals, Hirado Sea View Ranch offers bilingual horse riding experiences in a picturesque environment. Whether you want just a lap around the ring or a whole day galloping along the white sand of nearby Chirihama Beach, there’s a course to

suit everyone. Come ride with the master trainer who worked on Akira Kurosawa’s famous Hollywood film, Ran.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/642

Eco-friendly Animal InteractionsThe environmentally sustainable Eco-Park Ronshobaru in Minamishimabara City hosts a colorful variety of animal experiences, from small animal petting to horse riding. If you’re lucky, you may even see a few wild friends - boars, rabbits, raccoons, native birds and insects visit the grounds throughout the year.

Not ready to go home? Cabin and campsite accommodation is available on-site, so you can continue your adventures all weekend.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/639

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Naomi Louise Jenkins explores the beauty of Kujukushima by sea

Kujukushima, also known as 99 Islands, is actually made up of 208 islets, all of which sit in the

waters between Sasebo and Hirado. A vast beauty woven together by sea, land and sky, lazily drifting by boat through the Kujukushima islets is the perfect way to spend a sunny day.

Pearl Sea Resort sits along the crystal-clear water, connecting land and sea with beautiful light wood decking. Shops huddle together opposite the carpark, each one hoping to attract passing tourists through its open doors.

Hidden amongst the cluster of shops stands an array of equally enticing restaurants, each one promising something different and exciting. From fresh Kujukushima oysters to Hawaiian pancakes, visitors are spoiled for choice!

The deck is an especially beautiful place to eat. If chowing down while gazing

across the iridescent water sounds appealing, Pinocchio is the place for you. A two-story Italian restaurant specializing in seafood-based pizza and pasta, this homey restaurant is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the world around you. Thankfully, they also have meat and seafood free options for all you vegetarians out there!

Chase your delicious meal with some tea and cake as you sit back and watch the boats go by. Perhaps you’ll be lucky enough to catch sight of one of the endangered species of sea bird that only reside in Kujukushima.

Painted in a striking combination of red and black, the vessel “Mirai” stands out against the breathtakingly luscious backdrop of the surrounding scenery. Her hull is carved in the image of a pirate ship, crow’s nest and all. Mirai is the first electric-powered “pleasure boat” in Japan, and she is currently celebrating

KujukushimaA Beauty Explored

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her first year of cruising. With four decks to choose from, each one offering a different view and environment, there is something to suit everyone.

Despite her old-time pirate visage, Mirai is equipped with wheelchair-friendly elevators, so everyone can enjoy a variety of views. You can find an old world souvenir shop on the second floor, selling a collection of kitsch pirate-themed paraphernalia. There’s also pearl ice cream for sale that promises to give you beautiful mermaid-like skin, a claim which can be personally verified by the visiting Nagazasshi writers!

The water, an auroral blue, turns almost turquoise as it laps against the shore of the islands, parting like cut silk as the boat glides along its course. Sea birds soar overhead as oyster farms bob in the distance. Islets as far as the eye can see, a plethora of unique sizes, each one sculpted by time as the world grew

and evolved around it. Like green stars scattered across a blue sky, they stand as a testament to the beauty of Mother Nature.

After 50 minutes cruising, you’re guaranteed to feel more relaxed as your feet touch the shore once more. At a price of 1400 yen for adults and 700 yen for children (ages of 5-12), with children under the age of 4 riding for free, this

cruise is the perfect way to spend a lazy weekend, or a day off.

With sunset cruises and kayaking also available from April,

Pearl Sea Resort offers a variety of other ways in which to interact with Kujukushima.

Embrace nature with this relaxing cruise. Watch as the seasons melt into one another and transform the world around you.

Pearl Sea Resort8 pearlsea.jp/english/

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There’s also pearl ice cream for sale that promises to give you beautiful mermaid-like skin

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photos Jessica Richard

Set travel goalsBefore you put together your itinerary, begin by setting goals together. What are the must-sees, the must-eats? Perhaps your visitors hope to ski down Hokkaido’s powdery slopes, or maybe they dream of ambling through Kyoto’s streets in kimono? Don’t forget to include some things that you’ll enjoy!

Top tips: When traveling to Hokkaido or Okinawa, save money with Peach Airlines. For flexible times and larger baggage allowances, try ANA or JAL. Make the most of Japan’s extensive rail network for less with a Japan Rail Pass. These must be purchased before coming to Japan. 7, 14 and 21-day passes are available. Please note, residents of Japan are not eligible.8 japanrailpass.net/en8 flypeach.com

Utilize your networksIf you have friends and family in Japan, why not plan a visit? Make time to catch up and explore their city. Use their insider knowledge to your advantage! Your guests will appreciate the extra support and you can take a break from translating.

If you don’t know anyone in a city, that’s no problem! Connect with domestic travelers by staying at a guesthouse or hostel instead of a hotel. Look for activities that foster conversation - art classes, cultural experiences, local bus tours, bars, and pubs are places to start.

Top tip: Volunteer organizations like Tokyo Free Guide provide free guided activities in and around Tokyo.8 tokyofreeguide.org

So it’s official, huh? You’re going to share this strange and wonderful country with friends and family?

Here are some tips to make the most of their visit.

Beatrix Hutton gives us her top tips for staying sane when guiding visitors around Japan

Hosting Friends & Family in Japan

photos Beatrix Hutton

Survival Guide

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Cash, not cardsJapan is undeniably a cash based society, and visitors are often surprised that debit or credit cards are not widely accepted. With some currency exchanges and many ATMs not accepting cards created outside Japan, it isn’t always easy to access your funds. Advise your guests to bring plenty of Japanese yen.

Top tip: Seven-Eleven convenience stores provide International ATM facilities nationwide, with instructions provided in several foreign languages. Amounts from 10,000円 may be withdrawn 24/7.

Take pictures!There’s nothing worse than forgetting the names of the places you’ve been while traveling. Keep track by taking pictures and writing notes for yourself, as well as for curious friends and family.

Top tip: Use the One Second Everyday app to easily record snippets of your trip. Your files will automatically be cut and combined in chronological order. What’s more, your experiences will be easily shareable!

Rest, rinse and repeatTraveling is stressful. Your guests have to adjust to a new environment and it can be tiring hanging around the same group of people. As the local expert, you are constantly translating, planning

and organizing. Make room in your schedule to rest and take a break, such as a relaxing dip in an onsen.

Top tip: find fuss-free food options to ease the pressure. Choosing McDonald’s over sushi is fine if that’s what it takes to clear your head. Sushiro, Sukiya, or Ringer Hut are tasty and ubiquitous—no need to overthink it!

This might be your guests’ first time in Japan, or even

their first time abroad. Remember to be patient and positive. Let your guests know that you appreciate them coming to visit, especially if they are having trouble adjusting to their new surroundings. It will make a huge difference.

As the weather improves and summer holidays approach, it’s likely that some of you will host a friend or two. Make the most of it! Best of luck, and happy travels!

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Let your guests know that you

appreciate them coming to visit

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Jennifer Edwards gives us the low-down on the prefecture’s best live music venues

If you’re looking for a way to get to grips with contemporary Japanese culture, hitting one of its many live houses is a great way to do so. Check out your local live house or plan a trip further afield, using our handy guide below.

NagasakiDRUM Be-7Nagasaki City’s largest live house and part of the Kyushu-wide Live House DRUM conglomeration. Largely homegrown bands play at least a couple of evenings a week, with the occasional day-long, multi-band concert on weekends and holidays.

5-5 Sakaemachi, Nagasaki 〒 850-08758 live-drum.com

Studio DO! Located in a residential street close to Nagasaki City’s Suwa Shrine, Studio DO! is instantly recognizable as a music venue thanks to the dozens of flyers plastered over its entrance. Catch a local band in its cozy interior, and cool off and chat with locals on its concrete steps, which double as a smoking area.

2-2 Fūfugawamachi, Nagasaki 〒 850-0016

8 studiodo.info/top.html

Astrospace (Honda Gakki)Musicians come from far and wide to music shop Honda Gakki. Yet Astrospace, the live house just around the back, is perhaps one of Nagasaki City’s least known music venues. Check out one of their all day concerts showcasing upcoming bands from Nagasaki’s local scene.

1-7 Hamaguchimachi, Nagasaki 〒 852-8107

8 twitter.com/hondagakki

With thanks to Matthew Wypycha (Sasebo), Will Tiley (Omura), Karl Po (Nagasaki), Aaron Kikugawa and Char Marie (Shimabara)

for their venue suggestions.

Nagasaki

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SaseboDazzle PuzzleThis venue hosts a wide range of bands, both Japanese and international. More relaxed than many other live houses, patrons can freely dance or mosh on the spacious dance floor, and taking photos is permitted. Wander up to the mezzanine area to see the gig from above!

4-33 Miuracho, Sasebo 〒 857-0863

8 twitter.com/dazzle_puzzle_s

GarnetCoffee shop by day, by night it becomes an intimate live house complete with a stage. Both the volume and the temperature are high in this underground venue, but you’re free to come up for air mid-gig. Shows are eclectic, with cover-bands, grimy metal nights, and even some international independent bands.

9-6 Shimanosechō, Sasebo 〒 857-08068 twitter.com/garnet_live

ShimabaraLive Café CeciliaUnmissable thanks to its striking yellow-arched entrance, the inside of Live Café Cecilia is similarly vibrant, with an enormous painted dragon adorning the wall behind the stage. A home for gigs by professional and amateur bands, and available to rent as a practice space, its charismatic owner works hard to ensure that this is a place of both musical and international exchange.

1312 Imagawamachi, Shimabara 〒 855-0046

8 hp-ez.com/hp/livecafececilia/p2

OmuraLive & bar-g-This hole-in-the-wall bar hosts on and off Jazz and Blues nights. Comfy sofas and a friendly owner make Live & bar-g- a chilled out space to see live music. There are house instruments to jam on, and you can even take to the stage for a karaoke session!

Kakomachi 2 Chome 704-14-1F, Omura 〒 856-08278 facebook.com/Livebar-

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James Vaughan takes us inside Nagasaki’s own Studio DO! for a

listen to The Mirraz

Gig Review:

The Mirrazat Studio DO!

The lights went dark, a man wearing a trucker hat and

military-style coat walked on stage unannounced. “Is he in the band?

Is he performing a sound check?” I wondered. My question was answered when the lanky figure set down his beer on an amp as others strolled on stage. Within seconds, the band launched into their first song. This was the introduction to my first Japanese gig.

Prior to moving to Japan, I lived in London, a city rich with nightly live performances in which I attended almost weekly. It’s an experience I’ve missed since coming to Nagasaki so I was excited to discover “Studio DO!”

The self-proclaimed “Live & Air’s rock hall” is located just off of Shindaiku Machi, hidden from the main street. The lobby, located up a short flight of stairs,

consists of a reception and bar. Through a set of heavy doors lies the stage room, capable of comfortably fitting 50 people, unless you anticipate a mosh pit.

The Indie Rock band I had the pleasure of seeing, “The Mirraz” (ミイラズ), names the Arctic Monkeys as their main influence, which can be clearly heard in their music. The members were lively and good with the audience, stopping halfway through their set to talk to their fans. One of the group members, Nagasaki born and bred, even took some time to reminisce about the city.

At the heart of it I found the experience not too dissimilar from what I was used to; an energetic audience, beer in plastic cups, and tiny mosh pits. I will definitely be making a return to Studio DO!

* do1f@yahoo.co.jp( 095-827-6734

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For anyone living in Japan, Golden Week is synonymous with 旅行 (ryokou - travel). Whether you are staying 国内 (kokunai - inside the country) or going 海外 (kaigai - over-seas) we hope you have taken care of your 予約 (yoyaku - reservations) and finalized your 日程 (nittei - itinerary). In case you haven’t, here are some words you may encounter in obtaining your 切符 (kippu - tickets).

早割 (hayawari) - Early-bird specials on airline tickets and hotel reservations.

旅館 (ryokan) - Japanese style inns usually including an 温泉 (onsen) and 畳 (tatami) floors.

回数券 (kaisuuken) - Multiple tickets, usually at a discount. Kyushu Protip: 四枚切符 (yonmaikippu) - a 4 ticket pack sold for around 25% off are available for the route between Nagasaki and Fukuoka for both trains and buses!

往復 (oufuku) - Round trip as opposed to 片道 (katamichi - a one way trip

指定席 (shiteiseki) - reserved seat; 自由席 (jiyuuseki) - non-reserved seat

Purchasing tickets in person can be stressful. Here’s a de-pendable formula for getting your message across at the ticket counter. Just insert your destination and style of ticket.

長崎駅まで往復ください。(Nagsasaki eki made oufuku kudasai - A round-trip ticket to Nagasaki station please.)

Simply insert your destination and the type of ticket that you would like (oufuku / katamichi / yonmaikippu) and never again fear the ticket counter. Whether you’re 遊びに行く (asobi ni iku - going for fun) or 観光する (kankou suru - travelling for tourism) have a great time on your adventures this Golden Week!

Dan Cohen & Will Morgan

Nihon(go) on the Go