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Mt. Iwaya Hike | Onsen Map | Obama | Mt. Zao

Hot Activities toBeat the Winter Chill

Cold

W inter in Japan is a time to eat hot, bubbling nabe whilst snuggled up under your kotatsu. Or is it?

It’s undeniably nice to feel warm and enjoy the creature comforts of home as the cold weather rages. However, braving the cold and getting out of the house is not only better for your health in the winter, but also gives you an opportunity to see a whole new side of where you live.

So, this issue, we’ve highlighted Nagasaki’s great winter spots. Take advantage of the mountainous landscape and hit the hiking trail (p. 6)! You’ll be rewarded for your efforts with amazing views, as well as an adrenaline rush from the exercise.

After your hike, why not soothe your sore muscles in one of Nagasaki’s many onsen? The prefecture is blessed with numerous beautiful onsen towns, each boasting differ-ent kinds of naturally enriched waters to ease those winter ailments.

Check out our guide to the “Onsen of Naga-saki” (p. 8) for inspiration, or learn more about the hot spring hot spot Obama from both a native and a foreign resident (p. 10).

Or, if you really want to embrace the cold, head far north to winter wonderland Mt. Zao in Yamagata Prefecture to see the famous Snow Monsters and hit the ski slopes (p. 13).

Whatever you do this winter, stay warm, stay well and stay safe.

Happy reading!

Jennifer Edwards,Editor-in-chief

www.nagazasshi.com

Editor-in-chiefJennifer Edwards

EditorRosie Fordham

Layout and DesignLaurel Williams

Assistant EditorLorna Hanson

Public RelationsConor Hughes

Copy EditorMax Epstein

TreasurerKarl Po

ContributorsDan Cohen

Lorna HansonSakura KakigawaSatomi Kakigawa

Tony KimShané MapleWill Morgan

Dylan NordstromTakayuki Odawara

Pia PetersonJess RichardMie Shouzaki

FoundersAndrew Morris

Matthew Nelson

Cover photo:Unzen Jigoku Dylan Nordstrom

nagazasshiVolume 8 Issue 4

January/February 2016

Photo credits (top

to bottom): Mt. Zao

Pia Peterson; View from

Mt. Iwaya Jessica Richard;

View from a Tsutaya Ryokan

private bath, Obama Tony Kim

ContentsEvents

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4

The Peaks of NagasakiHiking up Nagasaki’s Mt. Iwaya

15

6

Kanji of the Month

The prefecture’s best bathingOnsen of Nagasaki

13

10Obama OnsenA Presidential hot spring resort

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6 13Show Us Zao You Do ItVisit the jewel of Yamagata Prefecture

Photo credits (top

to bottom): Mt. Zao

Pia Peterson; View from

Mt. Iwaya Jessica Richard;

View from a Tsutaya Ryokan

private bath, Obama Tony Kim

4 January/February 2016 | nagazasshi

Event of the MonthUnzen Frostflower IlluminationThroughout February, Unzen

In February, the foliage of Unzen freezes over with peculiar formations of hoarfrost, resembling frozen flowers. The Frostflower Illumination Festival is a celebration of the mystifying, crystalline beauty of such formations. Festivities include dazzling illumination displays throughout the town and weekly fireworks shows each Saturday at 9:30pm.

8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/120

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and displays of traditional Chinese lanterns. Although particularly present in Nagasaki’s bustling central arcade, city squares throughout the city become the site of massive lantern displays, accom-panied by cultural parades through the streets.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/92

Burning of the fields of Kawachi-tôge PassFebruary 7, HiradoEvery year, Hirado heralds the coming of spring by burning the grass fields of the Kawachi-tôge pass, and area of around 30 hectares. Locals flock to the pass to witness the unique spectacle of the flam-ing fields. The Kawachi-tôge Pass also of-fers a panoramic view of the Ninety-nine Islands, the beginning of the Genkai Sea and Iki and Tsushima Islands.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/631

Goto Tsubaki FestivalFeb 14 – Mar 31, Fukue, Goto IslandsThe Goto Islands are known for being abundant with natural forests of camel-lia trees (tsubaki), which are an essential ingredient in many local products. The festival celebrates the camellias com-ing into full bloom and includes guided tours of said forests, as well as bargains on food and souvenirs in Fukue’s central marketplace.8 www.gotokanko.jp/contents/free

_page/index9.php

photo Takayuki Odawara

Shimabara HinameguriJan 21 – Mar 10, Shimabara CityTraditional dolls are displayed in celebra-tion of Girls Day throughout Shimabara City’s “Castle Town.” Enjoy the displays, decorations and celebrations, while perusing the festival’s limited edition peach-themed goods.8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/91

Hirado Flounder FestivalJan 1 – Mar 31, HiradoHirado is known nationwide as one of the top Japanese producers of flounder. During this peak season, restaurants across the city offer quality, freshly caught flounder at limited-time reduced prices. Come enjoy the fresh fish at its most delicious!8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/90

Nomozaki Daffodil FestivalJan 9 – 31, Nagasaki CityBask in the splendour of 10 million daffodils in full bloom! The Nomozaki Daffodil Park offers a breath taking view of the sea and surrounding islands. Juxtaposed against the ocean of bloom-ing daffodils, it makes for a magnificent sight to behold. 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/89

Nagasaki Lantern FestivalFeb 8 – 22, Nagasaki CityThe warm light of thousands of lanterns cut through the cold in February! In cel-ebration of Chinese New Year, Nagasaki is illuminated with a myriad of parades

Events

PeaksNagasaki

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When brushed by a cold breeze, the first instinct is to seek shelter. However, despite the

chill in Nagasaki, it’s perfect weather for hiking.

Japanese summers, particularly those in Kyushu, are notoriously humid and sti-fling; perspiring on a thick mountainside in such heat is miserable. Although the thought of trekking up a mountain in the freezing cold may initially seem unappeal-ing, soon you’ll work up a sweat that will make you forget that it’s even winter!

Nagasaki City has several peaks that most anyone can hike, but our recommendation

is Iwaya-san (岩屋山), or Mt. Iwaya. At 475 meters, it’s one of the tallest moun-tains the city has to offer, offering a chal-lenging, but eminently doable, hike.

The journey starts from Iwaya Shrine(岩屋神社) at the base of the mountain, which is accessible by bus. From any busstop between Nagasaki Station (長崎駅前) and Sumiyoshi (住吉), you can board one of the many buses headed for Teragawa-uchi (寺川内) and disembark at Niji-ga-Oka (虹が丘). From there it’s about a ten minute walk to the shrine.

Say a prayer at the shrine for a safe ascent if you wish, and

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Lorna Hanson describes how to conquer Nagasaki’s highest peak, Mt. Iwaya.

January/February 2016 | nagazasshi

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However, as long as you keep your eyes on the path, and take your time, it’s perfectly safe. At a steady pace, with several stops for much needed water, the ascent will take around an hour.

Your efforts will be rewarded with a spectacular view from the summit. From Togitsu to Iojima – nearly all of Nagasaki can be seen. On a clear day, you may even see the distant peak of Mt. Unzen.

The summit is an open green with benches, making it the perfect place for a picnic before your descent, surrounded by groups of Japanese hikers lunching with friends or family.

There are several trails that connect to a wider system across more mountains. Some paths empty out on the opposite side of the ridge near Benten Shirohama, while others lead towards Mt. Inasa.

If your journey to the top of Mt. Iwaya gives you a taste for hiking, why not continue exploring the mountains of Nagasaki?

admire the massive 300 year-old cedar tree nearby, which has a circumference of over two meters.

There are two routes up the mountain to choose from. The first goes through the shrine and over a valley. A white handker-chief tied around a branch or a boulder branded with a red dot usually marks the way.

As there are sections where picking your way over tree roots and rocks is necessary, and descending this way could be treach-erous, we recommend this as the route for your ascent.

The second route begins on a concrete walkway before entering the shrine that turns first into a dirt path, and then into a lengthy boulder staircase.

Because of the relatively even rise of the slope, this is a more meandering, relaxing route, and is better for descending. Take a moment on your way down to admire the beautiful cedar forest, with its count-less tall, slim trees swaying in the slight breeze.

While it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the beautiful sights around you, remember, hiking requires concentration. Fixed ropes and crampons are not required on this hike, but one misstep on Iwaya in some sections can send you tumbling down a steep hillside or a cliff.

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“ Take a moment on your way down to admire the beautiful cedar forest, with its countless tall, slim trees swaying in the slight breeze

January/February 2016 | nagazasshi

Obama

Walking around the streets of Obama, you may be surprised tosee hot steam pouring from vents. It’s unsurprising, given the

town is abundant with scalding water of up to 105 degrees – the hot-test in Japan. Read more about Obama in our special feature (p. 10).

Battle the cold with a good, long soak in steaming hot water! A trip to an onsen is definitely worth braving the Kyushu winter

for, and – luckily for us – Nagasaki Prefecture is chock full of great hot spring spots. We’ve teamed up with the Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association to tell you more about the great onsen experiences Nagasaki has to offer.

Ioujima

Despite the fact that it’s only a 20 minute

ferry ride, or 30 minutes by bus, from central Nagasaki city, Ioujima feels worlds away. And if walking along the picturesque beach isn’trelaxing enough, the island boasts two wonderful onsen, offering incredible views and a huge variety ofbathing experiences.

Hirado

Far up North on Hirado Island, these sodium carbonate sulfate springs are said to help relieve nervous pain and

heal burns. Along with enjoying great sea views from Hirado’snumerous hotels and indoor onsen, you can also try some-thing a little different! The island boasts a rare arm bath right next to the usual footbath (both of which are free).

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Unzen

One of Japan’s most famous hot spring resorts and, in keeping with Nagasaki’s international history, the country’s first to be targeted at foreign guests. It’s

most famous tourism attraction is its Unzen Jigoku, meaning “Hell,” where masses of milky steam issue from the earth accompanied by the unmistakeable smell of sulphur.

Shimabara

A striking castle, colorfulcarp swimming playfully

along the waterways between samurai houses – Shimabara is full of great things to see. It also boasts great opportunities for onsen with its numerous baths, the water rich with hydrogen carbonate. Check out the two free footbaths, the KannonjimaSengen Park Footbath near the port, and the 24 hourYutorogi Footbath in the city’s shopping district.

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Obama♨ Onsen

Long before Barack was elected into office and his effigy subsequently erected outsideits tourism information centre, Obama Onsen has been a popular hot spring resort drawingvisitors from all over Japan. Native Sakura Kakigawa, and Shané Maple, born in South Africa but currently residing nearby, share their thoughts and experiences of this hot spring hot spot.

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The town of Obama is famous for many reasons. Specifically, Obama has many hot springs,

so you can see the steam from the hot springs in many places.

It also has a lot of famous food. For example, there is Obama champon and yusenpei (senpei made from the hot spring water).

Since I was a child, my grandmother has told me the history of Obama. I would like to share some more information with you about the history of my home-town.

The source of the spring water’s tem-perature is 105 degrees Celsius, making it the hottest source of water in Japan. Obama’s onsen are different than the onsen of Unzen in their ingredients and the effects to the body. The ingredients of the Obama onsen include chloride, mostly salt, whereas the Unzen onsen are sulfuric.

Effects of Obama onsen include treatingneuralgia (nerve pain), muscle pain, rheumatism, oversensitivity to the cold, cuts, burns, and a number of skin dis-eases. In contrast, Unzen onsen improve

blood circulation, fatigue, and rheuma-tism.

“Hot foot 105” is the longest foot springin Japan – the “105” refers to the tem-perature of the source of the spring in Celsius. As of December 31, 2010, the Obama Onsen Tourist Association noted that the number of people who have visited the foot spring has exceeded 200,000 in recent years.

You can sit on a bench and watch a very beautiful sunset, or walk the path of the foot spring as the stones that line the bottom of it will massage your feet. If you have a pet, the 5 meters at the end of the path are reserved for them.

Near the Hot Foot 105 is the “Mushi-gama” which means “steamer.” Here you can cook potatoes, eggs, vegetables, seafood, etc., using the steam from the water of Obama onsen. The mushigama uses steam from the “yudana,” or onsen stairs.

Obama is a very wonderful place!! Please come here at least once!!

8 obama.or.jp/english/index.html

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Sodium?Sunsets,Sea views and. . .

photos Pia Peterson

Show Us – Zao – You Do It

There’s nothing like saying a hearty “take that!” to the sharp bite of winter with a never-end-

ing supply of wonderfully hot water, and Obama Onsen is the perfect place to do just that!

What I think makes Obama particularly attractive for onsen-lovers is its size. It’s wonderfully compact while still manag-ing to offer a dizzying array of options along the main strip.

Whether you’re day-tripping or here a lit-tle longer, you are sure to find the perfect onsen for every budget and mood. From as little as ¥150 you can choose between indoor and outdoor baths, facilities with steam rooms, lounging areas or even (for a little more money) a private bath.

Many of the hotels have their baths on an upper floor giving panoramic views ofTachibana Bay. I highly recommend snag-ging one at sunset if you can. Obama is noted for its spectacular sunsets and it definitely lives up to the hype.

Here are three of my favourites:

♨ よしちょうYoshicho Onsen & Restaurant915 Kitahonmachi, Obama-choUnzen-shi 〒854-0514& 957-75-0107

Fairly basic in terms of décor but makes up for it with a steam room and a cool

water plunge pond. The onsen only costs ¥300. However, if you choose one of the specially marked meals at the restaurant, your onsen is free!

♨ 伊勢屋旅館Iseya Ryokan905 Kitahonmachi, Obama-choUnzen-shi 〒854-0514& 957-74-2121

Boasts indoor and outdoor baths made to look like natural rock pools. The smaller outdoor bath offers a lovely view over the bay.

♨ うぐいすや旅館Uguisuya Ryokan905-35 Kitahonmachi, Obama-choUnzen-shi 〒854-0621& 0957-74-228

A private 50 minute bath on the 5th floor. Open air, beautifully decorated and lovely facilities for ¥1000.

If you want a guaranteed private bath, it’s much better to call ahead. Of course, the best part of being in Obama is that if you are a walk-in and they’re full up, there are numerous other onsen on the same street! After you bathe, why not treat yourself to a delicious meal at one of the many restaurants along the strip or, perhaps, a delicate pastry or sweet from one of our bakeries? All of them are within a short walking distance from the many onsen!

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photos (listed by photographer): Clouds over Obama, Sidewalk, Yusenpei, Park and the sea, People enjoying Hot Foot 105 Sakura Kakigawa; Hot Foot 105, Couple watch-ing a sunset, Mushigama Satomi Kakigawa; Silhouetted trees at sunset Mie Shouzaki

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the mountaintop gather snow. The weight of the ice and snow bow the trees over until they begin looking like a herd of great, lop-ing beasts on the landscape.

These snowy beasts can be accessed by ski lift or, if you are into snowboarding or ski-ing, you can cut right through them on the 10km Jyuhogen Track.

photos Pia Peterson

Show Us – Zao – You Do It

Yamagata Prefecture local Pia Peterson urges us to take a trip to winter wonderland Mt. Zao.

M t. Zaoin YamagataPrefecture has a

bevy of things to do year round. It’s a famous hiking spot, and is one of the Hyakumeizan (100 Famous Japanese moun-tains). Mt. Zao is also home to a volcanic crater lake often called the “Five Color Lake” or the “Jewel of the Mountains.”

However, Mt. Zao really comes into its own in winter. For one, visitors have an oppor-tunity to see the famous Snow Monsters, or jyuhogen. As winter goes on, the trees on

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In fact, great skiing can be found across Mt. Zao. Enjoy night skiing on brilliantly lit trails or, if you’re an adrenaline junkie, check out the 37 degree slope ominously named “The Wall.”

On the opposite side of Mt. Zao, accessible by car, is the famous Fox Village. Fox Village serves as a preserve and petting zoo for foxes and other animals in a woodland set-ting that mirrors the foxes’ natural habitats.

Winter is the best time to see some of these foxes in their fluffiest white winter coats. You can feed, pet, and take pictures with the foxes, as well as the village’s other animals.

Zao is also famous for its sulphurous onsen, the smell of which hangs in the air around the bathhouses. With both indoor and out-door onsen pumping straight out of the volcano, they can be mercilessly hot, but are also extremely good for your skin.

For a unique bathing experience, check out the outdoor onsen in town. These run throughout the winter and allow you to relax in giant, person-sized bowls outside while the snow falls.

Zao’s small mountain village, which is particularly picturesque in winter, boasts numerous good eateries. The prefecture’s famous soba, fresh vegetables, and deli-cious specialty Yonezawa beef are put to use in various restaurants and ski lodges.

A personal favorite is the rustic pizza and bread bakery Maruya (8 twitter.com/marumoo0oo), open Saturdays and Sundays. The owner studied Euro-pean leavening and whole wheat baking

styles in Kamakura, Japan, and brought his leaven, expertise, and fantastic flavor palette up to the high mountains of Zao. The store occasionally runs workshops, and always smells and tastes incredible.

It’s easily accessible by bus or rented car from Yamagata station and, should you wish to stay, lodging of all sizes is abun-dant. Plus, the folks who live up on Zao are friendly and cheerful, and always happy to talk with folks from out of town.

Many student groups and locals come to ski on trips or after work, and its proximity to the larger town of Yamagata City makes it feel like a mountain in everyone’s backyard.

So, what are you waiting for? Come and see Mt. Zao at its wintry best! nn

http://www.mikes-sasebo.com