N Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water...

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Characteristics of All Wind- generated Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves Other Water Waves

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Transcript of N Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water...

Page 1: N Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves.

Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves

Deep Water Waves

Shallow Water Waves

Other Water Waves

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Crest, trough, wavelength

Wave Height (H)

Wave Steepness

Period (T)

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A wave in water depth > one-half wavelength

Sea vs. swell

What determines wave height?

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Waves in water depth less than 1/20 of wavelength

Often associated with surf zone

Variety of surf depends on shape of bottom◦ Plunging◦ Spilling◦ Surging

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spilling

plunging

surging

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Deep water wave◦ Speed = 1.56T

Shallow water wave◦ Speed = 3.1 times square root of water depth

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Bending of wave crests Waves approach beach at angle One part of crest reaches shallow water first

and slows down Waves become more parallel to shore

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Wave Refraction

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note distribution of wave energy most of energy strikes headlands causes erosion of headland, deposition in

bays coastal straightening occurs

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disturbance of ocean floor speed greater than 700 km/hr wavelength greater than 200 km crests can exceed 30 m as reach shore

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http://nctr.pmel.noaa.gov/

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