Multi Skiff

6
136 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK Craft Print Project No. 64 Its design is versatile enough to permit the use of inboards, outboards or sails as power, but Sea Skiff is first and foremost a fisher. SEA SKIFF By WILLIAM D. JACKSON Naval Architect Designed for the man who likes to fish, this sturdy craft can be rowed, powered by an outboard or by an inboard, or driven by the wind S EA SKIFF is quickly built over forms for construction of one or for several boats. It is planked with waterproof plywood and will retain its leakproof qualities even if left to dry in the sun for long periods. An ingenious method of framing makes for a sturdy boat and provides a hull that will give many years of trouble-free service. The general design presents a sturdy skiff that may be used on any waters anywhere. The boat may be rowed, powered with air-cooled inboard motors or outboard engines, or rigged for sailing. As a sailer it is dry, light, and fast in a good breeze. Start construction by obtaining the materials listed in the Materials List. Then saw the form (Fig. 2) to shape and mount it on 2 x 4 legs at a convenient working height. To construct the mould frames, stem and transom (Figs. 3 and 4) accurately, draw full-size paper patterns of these parts, lay your material upon outlines, mark and cut to shape, reassemble on the pattern and fasten. The transom is cut from ¾-in. plywood with a ¾ x 3-in. frame, fastened with #8x1½ fh screws, inserted from the aft side of the transom. Saw the mould frames from 1x6; fasten at chine joints with 3/8-in. plywood gussets. If these moulds are to be used several times, glue and screwfasten the gussets, afterward attaching cross pieces to prevent misalignment. The stem is sawed to shape as shown in Fig. 3. STATEMENT OF USES USES: Seaworthy craft for use on any waters anywhere, for boat liveries as well as for personal use. TYPE: Skiff. LENGTH: 13 ft. 9 in. to outside stem. BEAM: 60 in. SEATING CAPACITY: Five passengers. POWER: Oars, outboard, air-cooled inboard, or sail. Now mount the transom, mould frames and stem on the form and hold in place by bracing. With everything secured, spring a light batten over the framework and mark correct beveling so that plywood will lie evenly and fair at all points. With all parts beveled, cut notches for clamps, chines and keel in all parts. Spring the keel in place and attach to transom, frames and stem notches with two #10x2-in. fh screws at each joint. Be careful not to attach any members to the moulds, as the hull is later to be lifted clear of the form and moulds when planked. Now secure the chines. Fasten both chines simultaneously to prevent wringing framework out of shape. Use one #10x2-in. fh screw at transom joints, bevel the ends to fit the stem and fasten in the same way. If the chines have a tendency to slip off the mould-frame notches, hold temporarily with small angle irons screwed to moulds and chines (see detail, Fig. 2). When hull is planked, simply remove the screws and lift the hull clear. Continue by attaching clamps in

Transcript of Multi Skiff

Page 1: Multi Skiff

136 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK

Craft PrintProject No. 64

Its design is versatileenough to permit the useof inboards, outboards orsails as power, but SeaSkiff is first and foremost

a fisher.

SEA SKIFFBy WILLIAM D. JACKSON

Naval Architect

Designed for the man who likes to fish, this sturdycraft can be rowed, powered by an outboard or

by an inboard, or driven by the wind

SEA SKIFF is quickly built over forms forconstruction of one or for several boats. It isplanked with waterproof plywood and will

retain its leakproof qualities even if left to dryin the sun for long periods. An ingenious methodof framing makes for a sturdy boat and providesa hull that will give many years of trouble-freeservice.

The general design presents a sturdy skiff thatmay be used on any waters anywhere. The boatmay be rowed, powered with air-cooled inboardmotors or outboard engines, or rigged for sailing.As a sailer it is dry, light, and fast in a goodbreeze.

Start construction by obtaining the materialslisted in the Materials List. Then saw the form(Fig. 2) to shape and mount it on 2 x 4 legs at aconvenient working height. To construct themould frames, stem and transom (Figs. 3 and 4)accurately, draw full-size paper patterns of theseparts, lay your material upon outlines, mark andcut to shape, reassemble on the pattern andfasten. The transom is cut from ¾-in. plywoodwith a ¾ x 3-in. frame, fastened with #8x1½ fhscrews, inserted from the aft side of the transom.

Saw the mould frames from 1x6; fasten at chinejoints with 3/8-in. plywood gussets. If thesemoulds are to be used several times, glue andscrewfasten the gussets, afterward attachingcross pieces to prevent misalignment. The stemis sawed to shape as shown in Fig. 3.

STATEMENT OF USESUSES: Seaworthy craft for use on any waters anywhere,

for boat liveries as well as for personal use.

TYPE: Skiff.

LENGTH: 13 ft. 9 in. to outside stem.

BEAM: 60 in.

SEATING CAPACITY: Five passengers.

POWER: Oars, outboard, air-cooled inboard, or sail.

Now mount the transom, mould frames andstem on the form and hold in place by bracing.With everything secured, spring a light battenover the framework and mark correct beveling sothat plywood will lie evenly and fair at all points.

With all parts beveled, cut notches for clamps,chines and keel in all parts. Spring the keel inplace and attach to transom, frames and stemnotches with two #10x2-in. fh screws at eachjoint. Be careful not to attach any members tothe moulds, as the hull is later to be lifted clearof the form and moulds when planked.

Now secure the chines. Fasten both chinessimultaneously to prevent wringing frameworkout of shape. Use one #10x2-in.fh screw attransom joints, bevel the ends to fit the stem andfasten in the same way. If the chines have atendency to slip off the mould-frame notches,hold temporarily with small angle irons screwedto moulds and chines (see detail, Fig. 2). Whenhull is planked, simply remove the screws and liftthe hull clear. Continue by attaching clamps in

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BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK 137

similar fashion, fastening at transom and stemwith one #10 x 2-in. fh, screw to each joint.

Trim and fair the entire framework so the ply-wood will lie evenly at all points. Hull may becovered with either full-length or 8-ft. length ply-wood. Using 8-ft. lengths, cover the sides first witha length of plywood clamped in place. Mark andcut to shape. A butt strap ¾ x 4 in. fitted betweenclamps and chines secures the butted joints ofplywood on sides and bottom. Before fasteningthe plywood, coat chines, clamps, transom andstem with Weldwood glue. Place plywood inposition and fasten with #8 x 1-in. fh.screws spaced about 2 in. apart.

With both sides attached, trimedges evenly. Install the skeg (ifyou don't plan on using an inboard)and short keel. The skeg is fittedclosely and held temporarily with afew screws. Later, when the hull isturned over, the skeg is fastenedwith screws from the inside.

Lay 8-ft. lengths of plywood inposition on the bottom, marking andcutting to shape. Before attachingplywood, coat all adjoining surfaceswith Kuhls aviation glue. Lay clothstrips about 1-in. wide on gluedarea, recoat and lay plywood in posi-tion, fastening with #8 x 1-in. fh.screws spaced about 2-in. apart.Cover remainder of bottom similarly

—and don't fasten plywood to moulds.Trim fore end of hull along stem and cover

exposed edges of plywood with an outer stem½ x 1½-in., softened with hot water, bent andscrew-fastened in place.

Now remove the hull from the form and turnit right side up. Seat risers are attached byspringing to sides and securing with #8 x 1-in.fh screws inserted from outside hull.

Fasten ribs in place next. Mark locations onkeel and secure each rib with two #8xl½-in.fh screws. The center of each rib is drilled and

25"NOTCH FORM AND FRAME

41"

38-40"

9½"

NOTCH41" 31½"

4¾"

1x4"C H I N E AND CLAMP

2x4"#7x 3"

4RH.

FRAME

A N G L E IRONHOLDS MEMBERSD U R I N GCONSTRUCTION

1x4" TOHOLDSTEM

FLOOR L I N E

CARRIAGEBOLTS x5"

STEM -2" OAK

1"½"

4

2"

2¼"I"4 ¼"

4"4"

4"

4"3¾"

½"

PLYWOOD

23"

15¾"

SECTION

7"

13½"

24"

24"

4

7"4"

4

3"

ASKEG SEE DETAIL

PLYWOOD

BOTTOM RIBS½ x 1¼" KEEL

x 4"

CHINE¾X 1¾"

¾ x 1¾"

SEAT RISER

SEAT ¾ x 8" (12 WIDTHS)

C L A M P ¾ x 1 ¾ "M O U L D I N G

4¼"

23½"

1 x 6"

MOULD

1 x 6"

MOULDPLYWOODGUSSETT 17½"

1 x 4"1 x 4"

2819¾"

16"

30"

5"1 x 6"1 x 3"

4"

15¾"TRANSOM

AND F R A M E¾"PLYWOOD

PLYWOODGUSSETT

NOTCH

18¼"

MOULD

1 x 4"

1 x 3" 1 x 6"

1 x 6"

2" 23½" 23"

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Covering the frame with plywood.

The completed framework.

a galv. shingle nail inserted, clinched on theinside. A little Weldwood glue under each ribwill ensure a rigid job.

Install seats as indicated, fastening them to the

risers with #8 x l¾-in. fhscrews. Cut the breast hookand transom knees to fitand fasten with #10 x 2-in.fh screws. Fasten mould-ings in place with #8 x 1¾-in. fh screws spaced about8 in. apart. Screwfastenfloor boards of 3/8-in. ply-wood or 5/8 x 6-in. boards.Smooth hull and apply oneor two coats of sealer. Fol-low with two coats each ofwhite primer and paint orenamel. If you cover bot-tom with fiber glass (ma-terials and instructions forapplication of this materialare available from Herter'sInc., Waseca, Minnesota),complete f reedom f romworm damage is possible insalt water and strength isgreatly increased in eithersalt or fresh water.

For use of Sea Skiff as asailboat, see Fig. 7 for com-plete details. An air-cooledinboard, such as the 1¾hp Reo Trollabout InboardMarine Engine (WilliamsMarine Co.) or a 3.6 hpClinton engine, may bemounted off center or onthe center line of the boat.With an off-center installa-

tion, the centerboard used in sailing can be leftintact and you can use sail also. You may prefer tomount your engine on center, however, and fore-go sailing equipment. If you mount inboard on

BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK138

TRANSOM KNEE

STERN SEAT MOULDCHINE

FLOORBOARDS

PLYWOOD JOINTS

SHEER CLAMP

SEAT RISER

BREASTHOOK

STEMMASTSTEP

SEATRIBS

MOULDS

BED LOG

TRANSOM ANDFRAME 25½"

5½"

AFT SEAT SUPPORT

RIB LOCATION

( REMAINING RIBS16" O.C.)

AFT SEAT SUPPORT

20"LIGHT BATTEN

SEAT KNEE2¾"

11¾"

9½"

MOULD

RIBSSEAT KNEE FLOORBOARD

SEAT RISER MOULD

3"

BEDLOG

CENTERBOARDCASE

GLUE-FERDICO RESIN SLUE

PLYWOOD JOINTS

NOTE: IF INBOARD IS USED.DO NOT USE SKEG

REMOVE AFTER SHEATHING

SEATS

CHINEMOULD

KEELSON

STEM

SHEER CLAMP

MAST STEP

41"OUTER KEEL

41"41"41"

SKEG

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BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK 139

SEATRISER

(1 x 12")

14"APPROX.CUT TO FIT

2" INSIDECASE

15"

PLYW. SIDES

FIT HERE ¾"STOCK

FLEXIBLEWIRETRAVELER

SCREWEYE

2"

SHEET TRAVELER

SLIDE

SHEETBOOM ALUMINUM x 1"

BOLT

¼ x 2¼"

SHEAVEIN MASTTOP

1" #8R.H.SCREWS

THIMBLE

30°2"

3"

6"

15"

GAFF 10'-0"

TAPER ROPE,SERVE WITH#18 - #20 WIREAND WIPE WITHSOLDER

2¾"

CENTERBOARD CASENOTCH

KEEL

21½"

RUDDER

½-¾" PLYW.

WATERPROOFWITH 3 COATS

OFCASTOGLAS

20"

1¾" 30° 2" SQ.

9¼"PLYW.

14½"

37¾"DAGGER TYPECENTERBOARD

8"ROACH

46°2"SQ.

WATERPROOF WITH3 COATS OF CASTOGLAS

LEACH17'-0"

¼ MANILA ORCOTTONRINGS

TOPPING LIFT

¼" MANILA HALYARD

1" #8 F.H.S.

¾"BLOCK

MAST

1¼"

12"

1½"

2½"¾"

1¼"FULL WIDTH

OF WAY TO TOPTHEN TAPER TOLUFF

14'-6"CENTER EFFORT85 SQ. FT. 1¾"SQ..ROUNDING

AFTER GLUE DRIES

6'-10"

STRAP IRON JAWSBEND EDGE WISE

(SEE DETAILBELOW)

MAST 12'-0"

#2 MOLD FRAME LINE

MAST

SAIL

TILLER(1 x 4" REQ)

BOOM

SLIDE-GOOSENECK

41"

4½"

¼" LINENYLON ORMANILA

BLOCK ON EYE STRAPFOOT 10'-9"

BOOM 11' -0"

54"

AT2" STA.#3 15"

15"

2¼"

BOOM AND GAFF

SECTIONS

MOULDING

¼" BLOCK

12-14"4" NOTCHBELAY CLEAT SEAT

¼"TURNBUCKLEPETITE STYLE1¾"

SKEG &SECTION¾"

OAK CORE

SEAT RISER LINE15"

9½"C.L.R. C.E. SAILSCHINE LINE

LOCATE FROM MOULDS,STEM, AND TRANSOM

1¼"¾"

#2 #1

1½"

3½"

5"

25°

7½"

PLYW. SIDES

#3

GAFF

BENDEDGE-WISE

1"- #8 FHS

MAST

x 1 x 13"

STRAP IRONJAWS

3½" 12"1¼" SQ.

MAST STEP

2 x 4" STOCK- FASTEN WITH

2¼"- #10 F.H.S.

¼"BLOCK

CHAIN PLATE

¼"BOLT

INWALE ¾"

1"- #8 F.H.S.x 1"

ALUMINUM

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SEATRISER

(1x12")

14"APPROX.CUT TO FIT INSIDE

CASE2"

CENTERBOARD CASE

PLYW. SIDES

FIT HERE

15"

¾"STOCK

BOAT BUILDERS HANDBOOK

FLEXIBLEWIRETRAVELER

SCREWEYE

2"

30°NOTCH

SHEET TRAVELER

SLIDE

SHEETBOOM ALUMINUM x1"

SHEAVEIN MASTTOPBOLT

¼ x 2¼"

THIMBLE

1" #8RH.SCREWS

2"

3"

139

TAPER ROPE,SERVE WITH#18 - #20 WIREAND WIPE WITHSOLDER

6"

GAFF 10'-0"

15"

2¾" 12"

1½"1¼"

54" MANILA HALYARD

1" #8 F.H.S.

8"ROACH

TOPPING LIFT

BLOCK¾"

LUFF14-6"CENTER EFFORT

85 SQ. FT.

MAST

¾"2½"

154"FULL WIDTH

OF WAY TO TOP

THEN TAPER TO

SQ. ROUNDING1¾"AFTER GLUE DRIES

6'-10"

STRAP IRON JAWSBEND EDGE WISE

(SEE DETAILBELOW)

MAST 12'-0"

#2 MOLD FRAME LINE

15"

MAST

254"

BOOM AND GAFF

SECTIONS

¼" BLOCK

MOULDING

BELAY CLEAT SEAT

4" NOTCH 12-14"

TURNBUCKLEPETITE STYLE

54"1¾"

15"AT

2" STA.#3

FOOT 10'-9"

¾"

OAK CORE

SEAT RISER LINE

CHINE LINE

#1LOCATE FROM MOULDS,STEM, AND TRANSOM

1¼"¾"

#2

C.E. SAILSC.L.R..9½"

15"

54"

PLYW. SIDES

#3

3½"

25°,

5"

SKEG &SECTION

1"- #8 FHS

MAST

GAFF

x 1 x 13"

STRAP IRONJAWS

BENDEDGE-WISE

3½"12"

1¼" SQ.

1½"x 1"

ALUMINUM

1"- #8 F.H.S.

INWALE ¾"

BOLT54"CHAIN PLATE

BLOCK

MAST STEP

2 x 4" STOCK- FASTEN WITH

2¼"- #10 F.H.S.

4½"

41"

TILLER(1 x 4" REQ)

¼" LINENYLON ORMANILA

BLOCK ON EYE STRAP

SLIDE-GOOSENECK

BOOM

BOOM 11'-0"

7½"

WATERPROOF WITH3 COATS OF CASTOGLAS

SAIL

% MANILA ORCOTTONRINGS

17'-0"

LEACH

46°2"SQ.-

DAGGER TYPECENTERBOARD

PLYW.

37¾"

9¼"

14½"

30°1¾"

20"

21½"

RUDDER,

½ - ¾" PLYW.

WATERPROOFWITH 3 COATS

OFCASTOGLAS

2"SQ.

KEEL

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140 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK

center, move the amid-ships seat forward. TheReo Trollabout comes inkit form (about $100 forfresh water installations,$125 for salt water),with complete instruc-tions for installing. Foruse of Sea Skiff withoutboards, cut out tran-som as indicated in Fig.8, or attach an outboardmotor bracket (such asthat made by the HadleyMfg. Co., 2242 SmeadA v e n u e , T o l e d o 6 ,Ohio), to the transom.

(Note: Possessing theadvantages of greatstrength together withlight weight, and moreeasily built than craft

that follow conventional rules of construction,Sea Skiff, as mentioned earlier, is easily massproduced. Moreover, a set of full-size paper pat-terns—required for one or 100 Sea Skiffs—lendthemselves to rapid mass production.)

MATERIALS LIST—SEA SKIFF

LUMBER REQUIREDSize and DescriptionNo.

2222126

¾ x 1¾" x 14½'¾ x 1¾" x 14½'¾ x 1¾" x 14'7/8 x 4" x 12'¾ x 1½" x 8'¾x 1¼" x 14½'½ x 1¼" x 4½'¾ x 3" x 8'1

1 1¼ x 10" x 3'

11

3

111

2 x 8" x 4'½ x 1½" x 4'

¾ x 8" x 12'

1 x 4" x 12'1 x 6" x 12'2 x 10" x 12'

PLYWOOD REQUIRED41

4 gross6 dozen3 dozen3 dozen1 lb.2

1 lb.paint as neededWeldwood resin glueKuhls aviation glue5/16 x 5" carriage bolts1¼" galv. shingle nails#10 x 2" fh screws1¾" fh screws1½" fh screws1" fh screws

or 5/8 x 6" boardswaste from 3/8" plywood¾ x 24 x 48"3/8 x 4 x 8'

FASTENINGS

Use

clampsseat riserschineskeelsonoutside keelmoldingsribstransom framebreast hook and

transom kneesstemoutside stemskegseatsaft seat supportmold framesmold framesform

plankingtransom

floor boards

CLAMP ¾ x 1¾"

MOLDING1¼ x ¾"

AKEEL ¾ x 4

PLYWOOD CENTER BOARD CASE

SEAT RISER

¾ x 1¾"CHINE ¾x1¾"

SEAT (THWARTS)¾ x 7½"- 2 WIDTHS

SECTION AT#2 MOLD

BED LOGS x 2"

CUT FROM 2 x 4"

X-MARKSX=COAT KUHLS AEROMARINE GLUE ANDPROVIDE CLOTH GASKETS

1" #8 FH. SCREWS SPACESCREWS SO NOINTERFERENCEWITH BED LOGBOLTS - 2½" APARTAPPROX.

CENTER BOARD CASECONSTRUCTION DETAILS

INDENT-FULL PLASTIC WOOD

(CUT 2" DEEP AND FITTHIS POINT WILL BE &

TO KEEL-ATDEEP)

BED LOGS x 2" FIR-HEMLOCK 16½"

KEEL x 4"

BEVEL

BOTTOMPLANKINGPLYWOOD

BOLTS x 3" BRASS, BRONZE, ORGALV. WASHERS UNDER 4 - BOLTSEACH SIDE

1 x 6"

1 x 4"

CUTOUT

"i"

V

2½ x ¾" ADDED

TRANSOM

1 x 6"

CUT OUT TRANSOMFOR 1-5 HP OUTBOARDS

-OAR LOCK

SEAT KNEE

TRANSOM

NOTE: PHANTOM OUTLINEINDICATES FLOORBOARDS

SEAT SUPPORT

KNEE

SKEGCLAMP

•OUTSIDE KEEL

SEAT RISER

CHINEKEEL

OUTSIDE STEM

STEM

BREAST HOOK

MOULDING RIBS BATTEN

111"