More Terrain for the Ogre Kingdoms

8/11/2019 More Terrain for the Ogre Kingdoms

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MORE TERRAIN FOR THE OGRE KINGDOMS

The release of the Ogre Kingdoms army marks the seond of o!r e"#loratory

ste#s into the lands to the east of the Old $orld% These mysterio!s territories

o#en the door to ne& #ossi'ilities for modeling yo!r terrain to re#resent the

&onders of the east% This artile sho&ases the &ork of (ario!s mem'ers of o!r

)S Ho''y Team &ho (ol!nteered to try their hands at reating some senery for

Ogres and the eastern lands%

Building on from our earlier series of terrainarticles for the Ogre Kingdoms,this article offers

quite a few tips, techniques, and new materials

for building more scenery to create a battlefield

for your Ogre Kingdoms army.

Snow-Covered Boulders shows you how to use

common obects, stains, and grasses to create

basic boulders. !he Ogre !otem"which was

loosely based on a #imalayan stupa or shrine$

gives you one idea for ta%ing the boulder idea a

step further.

Ho''y Note* &n order to get the effect of withered grass in these terrain pieces a

variety of different floc%s and types of static grass were used. 'ou can recreate these

effects with (ames )or%shop floc% and static grass.)oodland Scenics is a company

that manufacture many different types of floc% which you could also use, or you can

chec% out your local craft or hobby shop to see what they have to offer. *ifferent

types of in% can also be used to create the stone effects used in this article. +gain both

(ames )or%shopand )oodland Scenics produce in%s that can be used in this way.

+lik on the images to see larger (ersions%

Ste# , Cut out some hardboard bases and sand down the edges to a suitable angle.
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Ste# - Build up the base with modelling putty. ress stones and pebbles of varying

sie into the putty to simulate boulders. ush any displaced putty bac%

against the roc%s with a wet finger or sculpting tool. (ive the putty time to

dry fully before continuing to the net step. *epending on the putty/s

thic%ness, drying could ta%e about half a day or longer.

Ste# . +pply a layer of white "0+$ or wood glue to the base "avoid the roc%s$.

Sprin%le coarse sand over the glue before it dries. +llow the glue to dry and

sha%e off any loose sand into a container for future use.


Ste# / Basecoat the entire piece of scenery with S%ull )hite Spray undercoat. !his

basecoat may require a few passes for full coverage.

Ste# 0 & used a selection of in%s in a variety of earth tones to stain the boulders,

large roc%s, and base. Once the primer is dry, heavily dilute the colours with

water. +pply them to the roc%s in a 1leopard spot1 pattern. Since stone isvery rarely one solid colour, daub on a secondary colour with this 1leopard

spot1 technique. repare two separate cups with blac% "of a ratio of about

2345 pigment to water$ and dar% brown "2326 pigment to water$. 'ou may

have to play around with this miture depending on which in%s you use.

*aub the secondary colour on in rough patches. *on/t cover the entire white

surface. &f the colour is not rich enough, apply another coat once the first is

dry or cut down on the amount of water being used. *on/t be afraid to allow

some of this colour to ma%e its way onto the scree "sand and pebble base$.

Ste# 1 Once you are satisfied with the outcome of the 1leopard spotting1 and the

pigment has dried, it/s time to apply the dominant stone colour. repare acup of greyish in% "2326 pigment to water$. 7se this dominant stone colour

to wash all areas of the 1boulders1 as well as the base. &f the colour is not

rich enough for your first wash, apply another coat once the first is fully dry

or cut down on the amount of water being used. Set the piece aside to dry

completely before proceeding to Step 25.
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Ste# 2

& mied up some light brown floc%s and Static (rass that & had bought from

a craft shop in a cup or sha%er. +pply 0+ woodwor%ing glue in small,

sparse patches around the boulders. Sprin%le the static grass miture over

the glue and allow it to dry. Once the glue and grass have bonded, sha%e the

ecess free onto a piece of folded paper and pour the ecess into the cup or

sha%er.

7se some !all (rass, which you can also get from craft shops, to add tall,

dry grasses to the base. Cut down the !all (rass to a suitable height and dip

the grass/ into a small puddle of white glue. lace the bottom of the grasses

onto the base and hold the grass upright with tweeers until it starts to dry in

place.

Ste# 3 8i plaster with water to get a very thic% miture of almost-unpourable

1snow1. & used some modelling plaster "again, chec% your local craft shop$.

)or% quic%ly "good plaster tends to harden very fast9 you/ve got a wor%ing

time of about :-; minutes$ with a small palette %nife or small piece ofplasticard and pile and push the plaster in the recesses and shadows of the

boulders. +void touching the plaster for at least 5< minutes or so. !hic%

areas will need as long as =< minutes to dry.

Ste# 4 +dd etra details li%e lichen. + little bit of this detailing goes a long way,

and it/s not that hard. *ampen a cotton bud with water and dab at the roc%.

7se the reverse "dry$ side of the cotton bud and gently rub away the pigment

on the boulder.

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Ste# , Cut out a hardboard base and sand down the edges to a suitable angle.

Ste# - Build up the base with modelling putty. ress the large stone into the putty

first. ush any displaced putty bac% against the roc% with a wet finger or

sculpting tool.

Ste# . ress a few smaller roc%s around the larger roc% along with a few smaller

items and bit. & chose an Ogre gut-plate as well as a few captured shields

"trim and clean these items before you add them to the putty$. ush any

displaced putty bac% against these items as you did in Step 5. (ive the putty

time to dry fully before continuing to the net step. *epending on the putty/s

thic%ness, drying could ta%e about half a day or longer.


Ste# / +pply a few drops of superglue to the bottom of a mid-sied roc% and attach

it to the top of the large roc% "thin% of how you build a snowman and you/ll

get the idea$. >epeat this process and add a smaller roc% on top. &t can ta%ethe glue a while to bond with the stone, so be patient.

Ste# 0 )hile waiting for the superglue to dry, clean and trim the two-part Ogre

8aw standard top and the animal s%ull top "both from the Ogre Bull plastic

sprue$. Cut a thin piece of steel rod to a length of =.:1. 7se a pin vise to drill

a hole through the centre of the Ogre 8aw "lengthwise$ and another hole at

the top of the groove in the rear of the animal s%ull "this hole should not pass

the whole way through the s%ull$. (lue the animal s%ull to the top of the

metal rod first with superglue. ?ow, apply glue to the inside and rear-facing

groove in the bac% of the Ogre 8aw. ass the metal rod down through the

Ogre 8aw until it rests ust below the animal s%ull. !he metal rod beneaththe Ogre 8aw should measure about 41. Superglue a vulture "() part code

@@=A


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to wash all areas of the 1boulders1 as well as the base. &f the colour is not

rich enough for your first wash, apply another coat once the first is fully dry

or cut down on the amount of water being used. Set the piece aside to dry

completely before proceeding to Step 25.

Ste# ,- *etail your Ogre !otem with Ogre graffiti. 7se a soft pencil and draw a

piece of Ogre iconography onto the side of the bottom boulder. aint the

icon with >ed (ore. #ighlight the edges of the icon with Blood >ed. 'ou

can paint the war trophies and standard pole however you see fit. oo% on

pp. =6-=A of )arhammer +rmies3 Ogre Kingdoms for ideas, paint schemes,

and quic% ways to paint rusting battle gear.


Ste# ,.





ecess free onto a piece of folded paper and pour the ecess into the cup orsha%er.





place.

Ste# ,/

8i plaster with water to get a very thic% miture of almost-unpourable



time of about :-; minutes$ with a small palette %nife or small piece ofplasticard and pile and push the plaster in the recesses and shadows of the

boulders. +void touching the plaster for at least 5< minutes or so. !hic%


'ou can ma%e trampled snow by lightly pressing the round edge of the

sculpting tool into the plaster before it/s entirely dry. See Step ; of the

Snowy Cliff Daceproect for details.

Ste# ,0 +dd etra details li%e lichen. + little bit of this detailing goes a long way,

and it/s not that hard. *ampen a cotton bud with water and dab at the roc%.

7se the reverse "dry$ side of the cotton bud and gently rub away the pigmenton the boulder.
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The Finished Ogre Totem

!he images below show you the finished Ogre totem. Once you get the hang of ma%ing

Ogre boulders, you can build on them to ma%e fun Ogre scenery li%e the totem. et

your gory imagination run with itE

&n )arhammer +rmies3 Ogre Kingdoms, the

bac%ground story for the (orgers tells the horrid

tale of how they come to be. &f an Ogre infant is

born without a paunch, it is thrown down a gaping,

agged pit into the dar%ness below. &f they survive

the fall, these Ogre whelps e%e out a troglodytic

eistence in the warpstone-laced caves beneath the

tribe/s camp. Only the fiercest last long enough to

reach adulthood, and those that do are so mutated

that they barely resemble their Ogre %in.

#ere, we show you how to build your own (orger

pit scenery piece. !he finished product is ideal for

use in the +gainst !he Ogres mini-campaign"especially in Scenario &03 Sacrifice to the (reat

8aw$.

Safety Note**uring this proect, we used several power tools. !hese tools can be

very dangerous if you have no eperience with them and you are not properly

supervised. lease, be careful. &f you do not have easy access to these tools, you can

ma%e do with smaller equivalents, but the proect will ta%e more time. Consider

loo%ing around your community for open shops that will let you use their tools "many

universities and student unions have shops li%e these open to even non-students for a

small fee$.
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Ste# , 'ou will need a plastic "polystyrene preferred$ bowl that is roughly 6.:1 in

diameter. )e found a bowl for holding party snac%s at the supermar%et that

fit the bill nicely. +s you can see in the images above, you will be cutting the

plastic momentarily, so ma%e sure your bowl isn/t too thic% "it should be

about 2F261 thic%$. !a%e a permanent mar%er and draw out eight teeth on the

surface of the bowl. !he bases of these teeth should be roughly equal, but

feel free to draw the rest of the teeth in an irregular fashion. !hese are Ogre

teeth, after allE

Ste# - )ith a ig saw or band saw "please as% someone for help if you are

unfamiliar with these tools$, cut out the teeth from the bowl. !a%e your time

on this and be careful G not only can you hurt yourself, but you can also

damage your wor% if you go too fast.

Ste# . *epending on the plastic, you might have to sand the surface to remove any

gloss and rough up the surface so the paint will stic%. 7se medium-grainsandpaper, try not to inhale the dust, and don/t worry about getting a smooth

surface G you want the teeth to loo% li%e rough metal, anyway.


Ste# / 8ar% a 2=1 square on a piece of hardboard. 8easure in A1 from the square/s

edge to mar% the centre of the square, and then measure in =1 from the edge

to mar% the perimeter of the pit "in the end, the pit should have roughly a 61

diameter$. Once you have your measurement lines mar%ed down, draw out

the shape of the base in a roughly circular pattern.

Ste# 0 )ith a ig saw or band saw "again, please as% for help if you need it and be

careful$, cut out the base by following the outside line you drew in the last

step.
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Ste# 1 ?ow it/s time to bevel the edge of the hardboard base. 'ou/re aiming for

about a 4:-degree slope along the edge. &f you have access to a belt sander,

we recommend using one for this step. 'ou can also do this step with a

rotary tool or sand paper.


Ste# 2 !a%e the hardboard base and lay it over a sheet of 51-thic% insulation foam

"availability of this material often depends on local environmental laws and

climate conditions$. !race the outline of the base onto the foam with a

mar%er. +lso add the mar%s for the centre of the piece and the 61 diameter

li%e you did on the base. ?et, ta%e a retractable craft %nife, ig saw, or band

saw "again, be very careful$ and cut out the foam layer by following your

trace mar%s.

Ste# 3 Based on your diameter mar%s, draw the outline of the pit edge on the foam.

>emember, this is going to be agged roc%, so you don/t want a perfect circle

or other regular shape for the pit. Once you have the pit edge mar%ed, mar%off a 6.:1 diameter from the centre point G this one should be a circle as it

represents the line of teeth. ?ow, with your craft %nife, begin cutting the

foam to ma%e boulders, crac%s, and other roc%y formations. *o not cut out

maor chun%s near the tooth circle or you will have a hard time gluing them

down later.

Ste# 4 &f you want to ma%e this scenery piece into a playable surface, you can add

stairs and use the flat parts of the foam to your advantage. Since this is Ogre

scenery, you should ta%e a =


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Ste# ,, )ith the craft %nife, cut out the pit hole based on your outline "watch your

fingers$. 'ou want to cut it so the edge of the pit angles in slightly to suggest

depth. +gain, don/t forget you/re going for the irregular, agged roc% loo%.

Once the pit is cut out, ta%e the tetured stone again and press it into the

edges of the pit. )hen you are satisfied with the shape of the foam, glue it tothe base with ?o 8ore ?ails or wood glue. +llow this bond to set overnight.

Ste# ,- )ith an old brush, paint wood glue on the base, crac%s, and other areas

where you want sand. ?et, sprin%le on an appropriate sand-and-gravel mi

over these areas of glue. +dd small roc%s and pebbles with ?o 8ore ?ails

as you see fit. &n the eample above, we painted the base of the pit with

Chaos Blac% so you can see it better. )e also glued on a few of the teeth by

pressing them into the foam about 2F;1, ta%ing them out and running ?o

8ore ?ails along the base of each tooth, and pressing them bac% into the

foam. #owever, we strongly recommend that you don/t glue on the teeth at

this time "we did it for educational purposes... really$, as they will interfere

with your drybrushing.


Ste# ,. Basecoat the entire piece by hand with Chaos Blac%. )e too% a pot of Chaos

Blac% to a nearby paint store and had them mi up a can of late house paint

of the same colour so we didn/t use 25 pots of Citadel Colours on one

boulder. 8a%e sure you cover all the foam with Chaos Blac%, as the pin%

will show through and ruin your final proect. i%e always, you have to

paint this coat by hand because a spray can will melt the foam. +lso

basecoat the teeth with Chaos Blac% while you/re at it.

Ste# ,/ +dd a heavy drybrush of Code (rey "again, consider getting a can mied

up for you$. eave some of the blac% showing in the deep recesses, but

otherwise cover the maority with grey. *on/t worry if you get greys on the

base G you/ll cover that up later.

Ste# ,0 *rybrush with Dortress (rey "you should be able to do this coat out of the

pot$. ay particular attention to the raised edges and corners. +dd small

drybrushed patches of >otting Dlesh in certain areas to give the roc%s more

variation and suggest lichen growths.
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)ith scissors, cut the cup into small pieces and pic% them out between the

teeth.


Ste# -- !ime to wor% on the base. aint over the sand and hardboard with *ar%

Dlesh. ?et, add a wetbrush of (raveyard Harth "almost no *ar% Dlesh

should show through$. )ait for this coat to dry.

Ste# -. #eavily drybrush the base with Kommando Kha%i. 8a%e sure to pic% out

the edges of the gravel and other raised areas.

Ste# -/





ecess free onto a piece of folded paper and pour the ecess into the cup or

sha%er.





place.

8i plaster with water to get a very thic% miture of almost-unpourable



time of about :-; minutes$ with a small palette %nife or small piece of

plasticard and pile and push the plaster in the recesses and shadows of theboulders. +void touching the plaster for at least 5< minutes or so. !hic%


'ou can ma%e trampled snow by lightly pressing the round edge of the

sculpting tool into the plaster before it/s entirely dry. See the Snowy Cliff

Daceproect for details.

The Finished Gorger 6it

Below are three images of the finished (orger it with a few models for reference. +syou can see, this scenery piece would ma%e a great focus point for a game of
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)arhammer. !his proect was both relatively easy and fun G we encourage you to try

your hand at it.

Clic% on the photos above to see larger versions.
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More Terrain for the Ogre Kingdoms

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