montage 62.3.pub

Chapel Pond Slabs Big group—big day

Our 14 year old correspondent tells all Page 25

Fall/Winter Outings It’s not too cold! Everything you need

to get outside and have fun Pages 18-21

Laurentians Ski House Lots of fun to be had this winter

0

2004 Photo Contest Sort your photos today—Deadline is Nov 5

Page 7

2004 AGM—Dec. 1 Join the Montreal Section for our Annual

General Meeting—Everybody’s welcome! Back Cover

Rockies Section Camp Rogers Pass 2004

23 Great things about the Section Camp Page 14

Mt Colden via Trap Dike Adirondack Photo Essay

Page 13

Torngat Mountains A great holiday turns tragic Picking up the pieces of a tragedy

Page 28

Skills & Courses Annual Wilderness First Aid course &

Avalanche safety in the Haute-Gaspésie Page 9

Mount Edith Cavell. Photo Chris Meyrick

The Alpine Club of Canada / Le Club Alpin du Canada—Montréal Section Vol. 62 No. 3 ● October 2004 MONTAGE

Mount Assiniboine, Canadian Rockies: See Page 22

www.accmontreal .ca

Montage 62.3 - October 2004 www.accmontreal.ca

I have looked at many of these sites and have found them to be very informative. They are of value for any wildlife area within Quebec as well as any of you who own a cottage in the countryside. These documents are a positive step in under-

standing bear behaviour and how to live with them without fear. As for our camp-ground at Keene Farm, I have noticed in recent weeks that people have been leaving their food containers nearby their tents at night. Please store them in your car as we don't want to encourage wildlife to use them as their food source be it chipmunks, racoons or even bears. A bear that would condition itself to our food source would likely have to be destroyed and no one wants to see that happen.

Thank you for your understanding!

J 'ai regarde a plusieurs de ces sites et je les ai trouve tres educatifs. Ils sont appli-cable n'importe ou au Quebec ainsi que pour ceux et celles qui ont une maison a la campagne. Ces documents sont une approche positive en ce qui concerne le

comportement d'un ours et comment vivre avec eux sans crainte. En ce qui concerne notre campement a Keene Farm, j'ai remarque ces dernieres semaines que le monde ont tendance de laisser leur contenant de nourriture a cote de leur tente pendant la nuit. Priere de les entreposer dans vos voitures car nous ne voulons pas encourage la faune sauvage de sans servir comme source alimentaire que ce soit les suisses, raton laveurs ou les ours meme. Un ours qui se servirait de notre nourriture serait probablement detruit et personne ne veut voir cela.

Merci bien de votre comprehension! David Gillespie

Adirondack Black Bears New York state’s Department of Environmental Conservation’s (DEC) “Adirondack Black Bears” web page is now posted on the public web site at: www.dec.state.ny.us/website/reg5/r5bears.html

It contains links to pages about avoiding prob-lems with black bears at home, at campgrounds and in the backcountry. While the main page focuses on Adirondack Black Bears, the new pages about “Hiking and Camping with Bears” are designed towards state-wide use.

Please view these pages. We expect that you will find the information useful.

David Winchell NYSDEC Region 5 Public Affairs


Needed: A New

Newsletter Editor [email protected]

After five years I have decided to take a break from being the newsletter editor. I

have really enjoyed bringing you news about the Montreal Section of the Alpine Club, the travel adventures of our members, and of

course, regular features on the all-important Leave No Trace program to protect and pre-serve the back country and mountain envi-

ronments from the hordes of people who love it, and are loving it to death.

But Nothing is forever, and now the Montreal Section needs a new newsletter editor. Yes, you can mould peoples’ minds and influence

them for the powers of good! Well, that’s what I did, your goals may differ.

Seriously, I think this is the best job in the club. We are all volunteers, the club runs on

volunteer energy. Sometimes it needs renew-ing, so why don’t you apply for the editor po-sition, or one of the other open positions on

the Section Executive. We need you!

I promise to help you get the first issue pre-pared, it’s not that hard really, as long as peo-ple keep traveling and writing great stories about their alpine adventures for us to read.

Doug Williams, Montage Editor

Montreal Section

Alpine Club of Canada Executive Committee

Got something to say? E-mail the exec at

[email protected] Specific E-mail addresses at:

www.accmontreal.ca

Chair: Susanna Oreskovic 514-708-8221 Past Chair: Mike Rogers 514-630-5690 Secretary: Marjorie Jack 514-880-7039 Treasurer: Ed Potworowski 514-340-1978 National Rep: S.Oreskovic 514-708-8221 Membership: Suzanne Bolam 450-458-1657 Webmaster: Andrew Parker 514-489-4923 Ski House Coordinator: Murray Levine 514-633-1533 Socials: Volunteer needed—Position open Outings: Brian Kinsie 514-733-0635 Courses: [email protected] Environment/Access: Volunteer needed—Position open Public Relations: Norbert Cyr 450-358-7703 Newsletter: Doug Williams

[email protected] Keene Volunteer Coordinator: Dave Gillespie [email protected] Members at Large: Marie Michelle Johnson 450-465-1919 Tom Haslam-Jones 450-672-3415 Keene Farm Committee (MAC Inc.) Dave Gillespie [email protected] Tom Haslam-Jones 450-672-3415 Ed Potworowski 514-340-1978 E-mail [email protected]

Ski House Committee Ski House e-mail contact: Paul Chapman [email protected] Murray Levine 514-633-1533 Martin Suiches 514-747-2828 Martin Goldstein 514-489-4615 Gigi or Don Wighton 514-739-7228 Leslie Roberston 514-633-1533 Dave Percival 514-481-2435 Danuta Potworoswki 514-340-1209 Herb Ladd 514-481-6026

For other Alpine Club Contact info: - www.accmontreal.ca - ACC Member’s Handbook - 2004 ACC Montreal Section Member Directory (included in February Montage)

Montage Volume 62.3 - October 2004

The newsletter of the Montreal Section

of the Alpine Club of Canada Published 3 times per year

In February, June, and October

Montage Editor: Doug Williams Soundtrack: The Wailing Jennies

NEXT ISSSUE February 2005

Deadline: 1 February Send news, reports, art, photos, etc to:

[email protected] Or: Doug Williams

3755 rue Saint Hubert Montreal Quebec H2L 3Z9

Current & back issues are available at our web site

www.accmontreal.ca/newsletter.html

Montreal Section Video Library Call David Percival for more info

514-481-2435

ACC National Club For information on hut or Canmore

clubhouse reservations or anything else call the ACC at (403) 678-3200, ext. 1

Fax (403) 678-3224 E-mail [email protected]

Lots of information at our website: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca

Alpine Club of Canada Safety Web Site

Very Highly Recommended! http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/index.asp

The Montage encourages you to support the ACC

Planned Giving campaign

Email announcement of Club news Please visit our website and sign up to receive email announcements of club news. This is a moderated, spam-free list. Your email address is never sold to telemarketers! Address changes / Membership Info Please give all address, e-mail & phone information to the club’s membership coordinator Suzanne Bolam. (450) 458-1657 [email protected]

Membership Renewal Check your member card (or Montage address label) for expiry date. Has it expired? Oh No! Don’t let this happen to you. Send in your membership renewal as soon as you receive it. Can’t find the form? Pick one up on the website, at Keene or call our membership coordinator (above).


Report from the Chair

S 'il est bien un signe qui marque la fin de l'été pour moi, c'est le raccourcissement des jours. En effet, l'automne est bel et bien arrivé, et plusieurs s'impatientent déjà que

l'hiver nous apporte enfin son manteau de neige et ses beaux glaçons. Qu'on s'y prépare en sortant notre équipement de neige et souhaitons qu'il y ait beaucoup de flocons: il y aura plein d'activités pour combler les longs mois d'hiver. A votre agenda, songez à visiter le chalet d'hiver, le confortable refuge de Keene ou inscrivez-vous à un de nos multiples cours, excursions ou activités sociales.

J'aimerais profiter de l'occasion pour souhaiter la bienvenue à tous nos nouveaux membres. J'espère que vous profiterez de tous les avantages qu'offre notre club. On est tous passionnés par le plein air. Après tout, c'est la raison d'être de ce club : rassembler des gens partageant les mêmes valeurs et faire marcher un club possédant les ressources, l'expérience et suscitant les occasions de profiter du grand air. Les mots clés qu'il faut retenir ici sont " faire marcher un club ". A l'évidence, nous n'aurions pas tout ce choix d'activités, de rencontres sociales, de cours, et surtout, nous ne pourrions pas mettre à disposition deux villégiatures si ce n'était l'engagement de ceux-là mêmes qui donnent de leur temps comme gage de leur foi dans ce club. Il n'y a pas d'autre chapitre

au sein du club qui fasse tourner deux villégiatures; à cet égard, nous sommes uniques.

C'est maintenant que vous pouvez vous impliquer. Il y a plusieurs postes vacants tant au comité exécutif, que pour d'autres activités bénévoles. N'hésitez pas à contacter un membre de l'exécutif pour plus d'information. Tout ce dont vous avez besoin est un peu de temps et de la bonne volonté.

La prochaine chose qu'il ne faut pas rater, c'est l'assemblée annuelle du premier décembre prochain. Ça promet d'être une rencontre mémorable : on y mangera, on y boira, et, pourquoi pas, on réfléchira à notre prochaine aventure.

Au plaisir de vous voir dans une activité de plein air.

Susanna Oreskovic [email protected]

Say hi to Susanna [email protected]

Rapport du Président

N otice how the days are getting shorter; this is what marks the end of summer for me. Fall is upon us and many are waiting for the winter ice and snow. Get your winter

gear ready and hope for flurries. Plenty of activities fill the winter schedule. So, start planning for a visit to our Ski house, the cozy cabin in Keene or sign on for one of our many courses, outings or socials.

A warm welcome goes out to all the new members. I hope you take advantage of all the benefits this club has to offer. We all love to go outdoors and play. After all, that is what the club is about; bringing like-minded people together and building a club where we have the resources, experience, and opportunities to en-joy the outdoors. The operative words here are “building a club”. We would not have the vast array of activities, socials, courses, and on top of that operate two cabins if it were not for the like-minded people who believe in the club that they freely give what time they can. No other Section takes on the challenge to operate two cabins; we are unique that way.

Now is your opportunity to get involved. A number of volunteer executive and other positions are open. If you want to know more please contact any one of the executive. No prior experience is

necessary, only some of your time and good nature.

The next, not to miss event, is the Annual General Meeting on December 1st. It promises to be a good time with good food. Let’s meet with a drink in hand and ponder our next adventure.

See you outside.

Susanna Oreskovic Montreal Section Chairperson [email protected]

AGM 2004 Wed. Dec. 1

See Back Cover


Tom Haslam-Jones receives National ACC Award

Tom Haslam-Jones was presented at the annual Montreal Section Keene Barbecue with the Alpine Club of Canada Distinguished Service Award. This is the highest award which can be bestowed upon a member, for outstanding ser-vice at the section or national level.

While the list of Tom’s achievements is in itself impressive - he has been chairman for three terms, organized section camps and has been in charge of Keene for many years – what sets him apart is the qualities he brought to these vari-ous responsibilities.

First and foremost is his modesty; Tom was not in it for the ego trip but for the good of the Club. For him, serving on the executive meant exactly that. He put in the hours and ex-pected no recognition.

Then there is his common sense; he never set unrealistic goals that no one could achieve. Tom is a “people’s person” in the true sense of that expression: members enjoy working on pro-jects under his leadership. He always follows through on his commit-ments, and no point was ever raised with him that did not receive ap-propriate and timely attention.

Finally his integrity is above reproach. The award he received is meant to recognize these qualities but also to set an example to others who are, or are contemplating a position, on the section executive.

Well done, Tom! Ed Potworowski

ACC Montreal Section Website News

In an effort to obtain member feedback on various issues the club has added a poll to it's website. New poll questions will be asked regu-larly with some questions being of a serious nature and some being just for fun. To vote visit www.accmontreal.ca and find the poll on the front page (you will need your membership number to vote).

Andrew Parker ACC Montreal Section webmaster

ACC Montreal Section Mount Royal bike rides

Members of the Montreal Section were exercising their rights on Mount Royal this autumn. They exercised their lefts too: both legs were getting exercise as members cycled up the steepest slopes of the little hill we call the heart of Montreal, Mount Royal. Organizer Doug Williams took members up both the Outremont and Westmount sum-mits to enjoy twisty switchbacks and awesome sunsets after work on Tuesdays during September and October. Mount Royal Cemetery from Outremont was a favourite with its maze of steep roads, two dif-ferent hillsides, and colourful head stones and crypts. We hope to see you up here next year. D.W.

3rd Annual Montreal Section 2004 Photo Contest See page 7—Deadline 5 November 2004

KEENE CUSTODIANS: PLEASE MAY WE HAVE SOME MORE?

A fter a good start to the year, support for the Keene Farm custodian program has waned a bit, probably because of

other things to do during the vacation season. Now we are well into the hiking season and we still need support to serve our visitors at Keene Farm

Several people in the list below have been custodians several times this year. Note that several are from the Ottawa and Ou-taouais Sections.

Thank you to the following members for your support so far this year - it has been very appreciated.

To make your contribution to the Keene Farm custodian scheme, please contact:

Tom Haslam-Jones at [email protected] or (450) 672-3415

Marie-Claude April Tom Brady Diane Bridges Christaan Burchell Art Campbell Paul Chapman Marc Dostaler Garry Elkin Leigh Freeman David Humphrys Vihra Iordanova Murray Levine

Andrew Manning Bill McDonald Karen Mendell Inga Petri Moira Reimer Jan Riopelle Leslie Robertson Raynald Robitaille Celestine Segers Marie-France Thibault Dwight Yachuk Thanks Everyone!

Keene Cabin Combination Lock The number has changed, please contact a member of the Keene Committee to get the new number.


NOMINATIONS FOR MONTREAL EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE FOR 2005

All positions are open for nominations at the upcoming Annual General Meeting (AGM) to be held on Wednesday December 1, 2004, as all members are re-elected from year-to-year.

On peut proposer des candidats à tous les postes du comité exécutif à la réunion annuelle qui se tiendra mercredi le 1er novembre 2004. Tous les membres du comité exécutif sont élus chaque année.

Below the positions to be filled are listed, as are the names and contact phone and e-mail addresses of your four member Nominating Committee who will prepare a slate of officers to present at the elections at the December AGM.

Vous trouverez plus bas la liste des postes à combler ainsi que les coordonnées des members du comité de nomination, qui doivent préparer une liste de candidats pour la réunion annuelle.

If you are interested to serve, please contact one of us. You can also nominate somebody else, but be sure to get their consent, preferably signed, first, (see form for your convenience below). Call someone on the committee to know where to mail this form.

Si vous aimeriez vous présenter, contactez un membre du comité de nomination. Si vous voulez proposer quelqu’un, assurez-vous qu’il (elle) est consentant(e). Si vous voulez, vous pouvez utiliser le formulaire que nous avons préparé.

Positions to be filled are: Chair, Vice-chair, Secretary, Treasurer, Membership, Newsletter Editor, Outings, Courses, Socials, Environment and Access, Web-Master, Ski House Manager and the Keene Farm Committee of 4 –6 members*.

Les postes à combler sont: président, vice-président, secrétaire, trésorier, recrutement de membres, Éditeur du bulletin, Responsable des sorties, responsable des cours, responsable des rencontres sociales, Environnement et Accès, responsable de la page Web, gérant du chalet de ski, membres du comité de la ferme de Keene* (4 à 6 membres)

* Keene Farm Committee positions are: Communications & Liaison with the Montreal Executive, Custodians, Maintenance, Special Projects, Secretary & Treasurer. Some of these positions may be combined. This committee is NOT to be confused with MAC Inc Officers who are three American members. One person from either the Keene Farm Committee, or from MAC Inc has to be named as President of MAC Inc and represents MAC Inc at the MAC Inc AGM which always takes place imme-diately following the Section AGM.

* Les postes au comité de la ferme de Keene sont: Communication et Liaison avec le comité exécutif, gardiens, Entretient, Projets spéciaux, secrétaire et trésorier. Certains de ces postes peuvent être fusionnés.

The Nominating Committee members are: Les membres du comité de nomination sont: Paul Chapman (514) 693 1655, [email protected] Brenda Bouchette (514) 935 3743, [email protected] Mike Rogers (514) 630 5690 [email protected] and Margaret Haslam-Jones (514) 893 9856 [email protected]

I nominate/Je propose___________________ for the position of / pour le poste suivant________________________

Signed/signé: Nominator/Proposeur_______________________Nominee/Candidat_________________ Date___________

Céline D'Aragon Charlotte Marqueste Claude Beaudoin Dan Proulx Daniel Roux Danielle Claude David Crete Diane Dumouchel Domenic Diaco Dominique Parent

Doug Deeks Eric Gagnon Eugeina Dimag Francine Champoux Genevieve Renaud Henry Kingsley Isabelle Thibault Isabelle Lemaire Isabelle Méthot Jean-Marc Noel

Joan Deeks John Van Erve Judy Maclean Marjolaine Arbour Mark Pomerantz Martin Ménard Martin Schild Maryse Durocher Maya Ali Nadia Slejskova

Petra Kocur Razvan Grigoroiu Roberta McKay Stephane Crespo Uljuna Slejskova Yvonne Morgan

New ACC Montreal Section members since June


Contributed by CamTec Photo • $100 gift certificate • 6 8x11 photo enlargements • Merci Jean Bardaji!!

26 Notre-Dame Est 514-875-5110 495 McGill (Coin Notre Dame) 514-842-4818 [email protected]

Contributed by Simon's Cameras

• Vivitar binoculars • Thank-you Vince Thompson!!

11 St-Antoine Ouest 514-861-5401 1-800-3-SIMONS [email protected]

Contributed by Random House • American Music (hardcover coffee table size book) • Thank-you John Neale!!

www.randomhouse.com

Contributed by Mountain Equipment Co-op • MEC 'camelback' water pack with insulation tub-

ing • MEC thermos • Merci Marie-Eve Allaire!!

Marché Central 8989, boulevard de l'Acadie Montreal QC 514.788.5878

Contributed by Camp de Base • Day Pack • Thank-you Peter and Janet!!

173 Cartier Avenue (Aut 20, sortie 49) Pointe-Claire QC

173E Cartier, Pointe-Claire, QC Aut 20, sortie 49 (514) 630-6717

Get ready for the 3rd Annual ACC Montreal Section

Photo Contest Deadline November 5 2004 Load the camera with film and take some pictures: our great Photo Contest is back again.

Please contact organizer Susanna Oreskovic for more in-formation at [email protected].

For entry form and contest rules, please visit the ACC Montreal Section web site at www.accmontreal.ca


Highest icefields will not last 100 years China's glacier research warns of deserts and floods due to warming

Jonathan Watts in Beijing / Friday Sep-tember 24, 2004 / The Guardian

The world's highest ice fields are melting so quickly that they are on course to dis-appear within 100 years, driving up sea levels, increasing floods and turning ver-dant mountain slopes into deserts, Chi-nese scientists warned yesterday.

After the most detailed study ever under-taken of China's glaciers, which are said to account for 15% of the planet's ice, re-searchers from the Academy of Science said that urgent measures were needed to prepare for the impact of climate change at high altitude.

Their study, the Glacier Inventory, was approved for publication last week after a quarter of a century of exploration in China and Tibet. It will heighten alarm at global warming.

Until now, most research on the subject has looked at the melting of the polar ice-caps. Evidence from the inventory sug-gests that the impact is as bad, if not worse, on the world's highest mountain ranges - many of which are in China.

In the past 24 years, the scientists have measured a 5.5% shrinkage by volume in China's 46,298 glaciers, a loss equivalent to more than 3,000 sq km (1,158 sq miles) of ice; there has been a noticeable accel-eration in recent years.

Among the most marked changes has been the 500metre retreat of the glacier at the source of the Yangtze on the Tibet-Qinghai plateau.

The huge volumes of water from the gla-cier's melted ice, estimated at 587bn cubic metres since the 1950s, are thought to have been a factor in flooding that has devastated many downstream areas in re-cent years.

Shrinkages were observed at almost every

ice-field in the Karakorum range, includ-ing the Purugangri glaciers, which are said to be the world's third largest body of ice after the Arctic and Antarctica. Ac-cording to Yao Tandong, who led the 50 scientists in the project, the decline of the Himalayan glaciers would be a disaster for the ecosystem of China and neighbouring states.

If the climate continued to change at the current pace, he predicted that two-thirds of China's glaciers would disappear by the end of the 2050s, and almost all would have melted by 2100.

"Within 20 to 30 years, we will see the collapse of many of the smaller glaciers," he said. "Within 60 years, we can predict a very significant reduction in the volume of high-altitude ice fields."

In the short term, he said, the water from the ice would fill reservoirs and lead to more flooding - as was already the case in Nepal and downstream areas of China.

In the future, he predicted, the end of the glaciers would deprive the mountain ecol-ogy of its main life source and hasten the desertification that threatens western China, particularly in Gansu and Xinjiang provinces.

Once the mountain ice was gone, rivers would start to dry up and ocean levels would rise, threatening coastal cities.

The inventory confirms earlier studies of Everest, which showed the world's tallest peak more than 1.3 meters shorter than in 1953, when it was first scaled by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

To ease the impact of the glacial melt, the scientists plan to advise China's govern-ment to build more reservoirs and hydro-electric dams to improve downstream flood control.

But they said that there were limits to what could be achieved.

"No one can reverse the changes to a gla-cier," said Shi Yafeng, head of China's environmental and engineering research institute for the cold and arid regions.

Source: www.guardianunlimited.com

Mountain Environment

Leave No Trace 7 Principles of Leave No Trace

Plan Ahead and Prepare Travel & Camp on Durable Surfaces Dispose of Waste Properly Leave What You Find Minimize Campfire Impacts Respect Wildlife Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Leave No Trace en français S.-v.-p., suivez ces règles lorsque vous pratiquez vos activités de plein air favorites :

Planifiez et préparez à l’avance vos sor-ties Attention à l’érosion : voyagez et campez sur des surfaces non friables. Débarassez-vous des déchets de manière appropriée. Ne déplacez aucune ressources naturelles. Laissez tout sur place. Réduisez l’impact des feux de camp au minimum. (Ils sont interdits dans la région Est des High Peaks.) Respectez la faune. Soyez respectueux des autres visiteurs.

www.LNT.org

How to S*** in the woods Dig a six inch deep “cathole” when you

go s*** in the woods, and remember to go at least 150 feet from water sources or

trails. Please take your toilet paper home with you.

Always use minimum impact techniques

150 feet—No excuses!


Ski House Group Meals The tradition of providing a group meal on Saturday nights will continue this year. We do this for several reasons: to avoid the chaos of several meals being prepared at the same time, to raise a small amount of money for the house, and because the meals are outstanding! The cost of the meal is simply divided amongst the diners with a small amount going towards the ski house. This usually works out to be in the $12 range. In order to make sure there is enough food, please let the organizer of the meal know you are coming by the Thursday before the meal. Visitors are not obliged to participate in the meal, but please cook before or after the group meal. Dec. 4 Official opening. Wine and Cheese Martin Goldstein 489-4615 Jan. 1 New Year Murray Levine & Leslie R. 633-1533 Jan. 8 Lasagna treat Celestine Segers 489-2842 Jan. 15 Pizza night Martin Suichies 747-2828 Jan. 22 Audrey's surprise Audrey Speck 487-0432 Jan. 29 Boeuf bourgignon Eric Lepage 450-978-8817 Feb. 5 TBA Feb. 12 Yurt weekend (limited space) Jan Johnson 935-4721

(Those not yurting make own arrangement) Feb. 19 Kaspar's Odyssey Eric Lepage 450-978-8817 Feb. 19 Teddy Bear weekend Holly Robertson 481-2435 Feb. 26 Mediterranean meal Paul Chapman 693-1655 Mar. 5 Brazilian feijoada Danuta Potworowski 340-1978 Mar. 12 Marielle's choice Marielle Tanguay 631-8240 Mar. 19 Indian delights Holly Robertson 481-2435 Mar. 26 TBA

Protect Mount Royal Mount Royal Park celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2001. The Centre de la montagne at la maison Smith and Les Amis de la montagne work together to facilitate the conservation and enhancement of Mount Royal.

Protegez Mont Royal L'année 2001 a marqué le 125e anniversaire du parc du Mont-Royal. Le Centre de la montagne (Maison Smith) et Les Amis de la montagne unissent leurs efforts pour favoriser la conservation et la mise en valeur du mont Royal.

www.lemontroyal.qc.ca

Courses Sirius Wilderness Medicine Learn the skills you hope you'll never need, your friends just might thank you for it! This is a course that everyone who ventures into the back-country should take.

November 20/21 weekend at the ACC Montreal Section’s Laurentian Ski House in Sainte Adele. Contact Andrew Manning (450) 443-1995

The following courses and workshops are not organised by or associated with the Alpine Club. The Alpine Club encourages its members to con-tinually upgrade their skills and knowledge con-cerning back country, climbing, and mountain skills. For this reason, we offer for your informa-tion the following.

The Alpine Club does not endorse, nor can it guarantee the quality of these courses.

Avalanche Safety Courses The Haute Gaspésie Avalanche Centre offers several avalanche courses this winter, in both French and English. These courses are held in the Chic Choc mountains. Introductory course/Cours d’introduction

2 days / $195 + taxes 11-12 December in French 18-19 December in English

Advanced Course/Cours avancé 4 days / $395 + taxes 27-30 December in French only

Professional Training course Level 1 in collaboration with the Canadian Avalanche Association 7 days / $1200 (English only)

For more information and inscriptions: Internet: www.centreavalanche.qc.ca Email: [email protected] Téléphone: 418-763-7791 Fax/Télécopieur: 418-763-7737

Additional information on the course objectives, outlines and courses from private providers are available in the Training courses for recreation and Training courses for industry sections of the Canadian Avalanche Association web site (www.avalanche.ca).

Please note that the Avalanche Centre issues snow bulletins on current avalanche conditions, so before you visit the Chic-Chocs, please visit their website.

Book Review: BACKPACKER: LEAVE NO TRACE Beyond cleaning up your trash and not cutting down trees for fire-wood, how far should you go to minimize your impact on wilderness lands? What is really important, and what is too extreme? Annette McGivney provides thoughtful answers based on scientific facts. She presents practical tips and techniques tailored for hikers, climb-ers, backcountry skiers, mountain bikers, equestrians, sea kayak-ers, canoeists, and rafters. There are tips for teaching Leave No Trace practices to children and others.


E very winter the Montreal Section of the ACC rents a house in the Laurentian Mountains north of Montreal to serve as a base for climbing and telemark, cross-country,

and lift-serviced skiing. The area maintains a formidable reputa-tion for consistently having great snow conditions every winter.

This year we have kept the house we rented for the last three seasons, which was just about perfect for our needs. The ski house is spacious and bright with hardwood floors, six bed-rooms, and more sleeping space than you can shake a ski at. There is plenty of room for cooking and the two floors allow some solitude for those who desire it. The basement/laundry (the third floor) is ideal for waxing skis etc. The house is liter-ally a five-minute walk to the grocery store, movie theatre, and the SAQ, and yet still retains a country-like atmosphere. If you haven’t seen it, check it out this winter. The house is available from Nov 15 until April 24. We will arrange to have some wood available for the fireplace. It will be stored under the kitchen porch. Any chopping required should be done in the basement/laundry room.

As far as the skiing goes, the Municipality of Ste-Adele offers a network of well-maintained and groomed cross country ski trails. And best of all, they are free (the only free groomed trails in the lower Laurentians)! The trailhead is a 5 minute drive from the house. Alternatively, a trail leading to Le p’tit train du nord is 200 m away at the end of the road, by the small downhill ski area. For those who like ice skating, an oval is kept open on Lac Rond, just a short walk from the house. Many winter out-ings start from the ski house. The entire Laurentians await your skis, snowshoes, or axe and crampons.

There are a few changes from last year. Remember that the stu-dent rate was eliminated last year and that children of 12-18 years pay $7/night. The mid-week reduction is still in effect. For members the Sunday night – Thursday night rate is $10 and for guests is $15. The blackout periods on the mid-week rate in-clude Ontario and Quebec spring break weeks and the entire Xmas-New Year period (Xmas eve-Monday following New Year). The day use rate is still $2/person. So if you go in to the ski house to warm up, have lunch, or have a pre-dinner beer, we ask you to throw $2 in the pot before you leave. Thanks.

Custodians: We are continuing to have a host/custodian each high season weekend. This person, we’re looking for volunteers here, will generally spend Friday and Saturday nights at the house. They will welcome people, collect the fees, act as a gen-eral resource person and organise a final clean-up on Sunday afternoon. The person is not expected to remain at the house during the day, just to be there early mornings and evenings. This won’t be an arduous task, but you will be rewarded by free accommodation (or if you have a pass, a free meal). Volunteers can call Martin Goldstein at 514-489-4615.

Saturday night meals: Again, we have organised group meals on Saturday night. This is a way of introducing and including new ski house attendees and also makes a small amount of money to support the house. The meals are also organised to avoid a potential crush of people cooking their own food at din-ner time. If you do not want to partake in the meal, your meal should be prepared either before or after the group meal. Fi-nally, the meals are just stupendous and are a big draw to the ski house. The schedule is shown elsewhere in this report. While every attempt will be made to keep to this list of meals, if you just have to attend one particular meal, you should call the or-ganiser, a ski house committee member, or check the web site. We realize that the meal price saw some inflation last year. However we promise to claw that back to be a maximum of $12/person. For that price, this is a great deal. But there is a catch, you should be prepared to help out in the preparation in some small way.

“Reservations”: Last year there were some times when the house felt rather full. On those mid-winter Saturday nights it is in everyone’s interest that the sleeping spaces be as optimized as possible. The custodian will be overseeing this to make sure everyone gets a good night’s rest. Visitors are encouraged to e-mail their intentions to Paul Chapman (address below) so that in the event of a large crowd they should bring additional sleeping pads. If anyone is bringing a large group (say 5 or more per-sons) they must contact the ski house reservations member at [email protected] The address is a misnomer as there are no reservations, but it allows the Custodian some forewarning of what to expect that particular weekend.

Teddy Bear Weekend: One has been organised this year (February 19-20). On this weekend family-oriented events and meals take place. But don’t be put off if you don’t have kids, the house is plenty big enough to accommodate all.

For further information please call a member of the ski house committee listed below.

Montreal Section Laurentian Ski House 2004-05

Ski House Committee 2004/05 Ski House e-mail contact: Paul Chapman [email protected] Murray Levine 514-633-1533 Martin Suiches 514-747-2828 Martin Goldstein 514-489-4615 Gigi or Don Wighton 514-739-7228 Leslie Roberston 514-633-1533 Dave Percival 514-481-2435 Danuta Potworoswki 514-340-1209 Herb Ladd 514-481-6026


Ski House Frequently Asked Questions A complete FAQ is available online at the ACC Montreal Section’s web site www.accmontreal.ca/skihouse.html.

How do I get in if it is locked? The ski house will normally be locked, especially if you arrive early on Friday or arrive during the week. Before your first trip to the ski house this year be sure to call any member of the ski house commit-tee for information on the key system.

What do I need to bring? Sleeping bag. Pillow. Food (see food faq)

Do I need to bring food? Group meals are usually provided on Saturday nights. See Saturday night meals for more info. Basic breakfast supplies (bread, oatmeal, milk, jam, tea, coffee) and beer are available for a small fee (honour system). You're on your own for lunches.

Can I make a reservation? In general the answer is no. The ski house op-erates on a first come first served basis on the weekend and during holidays. However if you would like to bring a group to the ski house during the week we can make special arrange-ments (for example reserving beds). Email [email protected]

Will there be enough space? Yes. We never turn anyone away. There are enough beds for 22 people. There are foamies and plenty of floor space for overflow. On very busy weekends it would be wise to bring a sleeping pad just in case all foamies are used.

Will I have my own room? Maybe. The ski house is an informal and communal facility. There are no private rooms. It is possible that you could have your own room but there is no guarantee.

How do I pay the house fees? Please sign the register. The fees are indicated on the front of the regis-ter and are posted on the front door. Usually there will be a member of the ski house committee present - please pay that person. Otherwise leave your fees in the coffee can in the living room.

Is the ski house a cabin like at Keene? The ski house is a ‘real’ house like a cottage, not like Keene. There are washroom facilities, electric heating, a fridge, running water, etc.

What about those famous Laurentian mosquitoes? The ski house is open only those months of the year when it is not mos-quito season.

Ski House Group Meals—please see page 9

F

Ski House Rates 2004-05

Season Pass $160

Overnights ACC Member $15 Guest of Member $20 Student Member $10 12-18 year old $7 Mid-week reductions (See text for holiday/school break exceptions)

Day Use $2

Meals Breakfast $3 Dinners $12

The Ski House is open

Nov 15 to April 24 Autumn—Winter—Spring

Directions The address is 1261 Emile Cauchand, Ste-Adele. From Montreal take the Laurentian Autoroute (hwy 15) north to exit 67 (Ste-Adele) and continue north on hwy 117. Imme-diately after the Banque Nationale turn left on Morin St. Follow Morin St. for 300 metres and turn right on rue Emile Cauchand and continue for 200 metres. The house is on your right, set back from the street. L'adresse est 1261 Emile Cochand, Ste-Adele. De Montréal prenez l’Autoroute dès Laurentides (15 Nord) juste qu’a la sortie 67 (Ste-Adele) . Continuez sur la 117 direction nord. Après La Banque Nationale virez a la gauche et suivez la rue Morin 300 mètres. Virez a la droite sur la rue Emile Cauchand et continuer 200 mètres. La maison est a votre droite, au fond d’un grand terrain.

By Bus Take the bus at the Terminus Voyageur (Berri-UQAM) to Ste Adele. At the stop in Ste Adele walk north toward the IGA for 20m and turn left at Henri-Dumond and go up the hill for about 150m until reaching the second intersection at Emile-Cauchand. Turn right and go about 30 m to the house at 1261.

Par autobus Pour aller a la maison de ski du Club Alpin-Section Mont-real, proceder au Terminus Voyageur (station metro Berri-UQAM) et prendre l'autobus pour Ste. Adele. A l'arret de Ste. Adele marcher 20 metres au nord (vers le magasin IGA) et trouver la rue Henri-Dunand. Tourner a gauche sur cette rue et continuer a la deuxieme intersection qui est la rue Emile-Cauchand. Tourner a droite sur Emile-Cauchand et marcher pour environs 30 metres. Il ya une barriere de bois vert sur votre droit devant une maison tourqoise. Le numero est 1261 et vous etes la. Pour l'horaire des autobus telephoner a 842-2281.


ACC CENTENNIAL 2006 MOUNTAIN LANDSCAPE EXHIBITION The Montreal Section of the Alpine Club of Canada will celebrate the Club Cen-tennial by holding an art exhibition featuring paintings and drawings of Moun-tain Landscapes made by Alpine Club members. We anticipate having approxi-mately 20 works on display for a period of two weeks in the fall or winter of 2006.

As of March 2004, there are five interested artists, three of whom work in water color, one in oil and acrylic, and one in graphite.

There is a jury composed of members related to the field of Fine Arts, namely Jan Johnson, art dealer (chairperson), Kasper Pawlikowski, sculptor, and Eileen Meillon, Art Librarian, Stewart Museum. Their mandate is to ensure that the quality of submissions is sufficiently high.

For further information, contact Ed Potworowski at [email protected]

Alpine Club of Canada Mountain Huts

There are 26 huts, cabins and hostels in the Alpine Club of Canada hut network in the

mountains of western and eastern Canada. For reservations or more information

Call the ACC at (403) 678-3200, ext. 1 Fax us at (403) 678-3224,

E-mail us at [email protected]

Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival January 14-16 Adirondack Backcountry Ski Festival March 5-6 Longtime Adirondack outdoor retailer and Montage advertiser, The Mountaineer, in Keene Valley New York announces:

Our 9th annual Adirondack International Mountaineering Festival January 14-16 is coming together and our brochures should be available soon. Guest climbers this year include American Alpine Club president Mark Richey, Kitty Calhoun, and Steve House, as well as the regular exceptional climbers and guides of the region.

Our third annual Adirondack Backcountry Ski Festival is also in the works for March 5-6.

Our website will have more information when it becomes available. We hope you get a chance to visit us here in Keene Valley. Check out our website at www.mountaineer.com. We have been paying more attention to our cyberspace store front.

518-576-2281 www.mountaineer.com

Parcs Quebec news

Chic-Chocs New backcountry lodge SEPAQ and Parcs Quebec are pleased to an-nounce the opening of the new back country hut in Parc de la Gaspesie in the Chic-Choc mountains. The lodge is expected to open in February 2005. Look for a full report next year in Montage. Please visit www.parcsquebec.com for more information.


Mt Colden via the Trap Dike An Adirondack photo essay Isabelle Daignault

On the Summit of Mount Colden

On the upper slabs

Climbing in the Trap Dike

The Trap Dike from across Avalanche Lake


2004 Rockies Section Camp

Abbott Trail Paul Gregoire


23 Great things about the Section Camp Roger’s Pass, 22-29 August 2004

W ell I must say that it was a great section camp. I didn't get to see or do everything I hoped for, but I did get to see & do some things I hadn't expected! The rain; that bloody, poxy rain, not

what I expect at this point in my life (having spent the first 26 years living in the UK). People kept saying to me, “It's ok, you're used to it,” trust me you can never get used to rain!!!!!

Here is my list (in no specific order) of the most memorable things that happened on the trip:

1. Seeing a glacier for the 1st time (not as pristine as I thought it would be, but no doubt spectacular!) 2. Me actually getting fed up of blessing every wonderful thing I saw (there were just so many) 3. Believing there is a Mount, Eagle, Uto....etc....let alone Sir Donald; but never actually seeing them. 4. Exposure??? What is that, when you can't see how high you've climbed?! 5. Walter (legs like a poodles haircut) thinking duct tape making a good support bandage for his knees!!!! - Walter can now join to gether with Red Green & write the book, “101 things NOT to do with duct tape.” 6. Walter upsetting Eileen by boiling his shorts in a saucepan! 7. Walter spending all day drinking beer & writing us great camp songs. 8. Eileen, we love her & her cooking! 9. Me, taking an early evening nap only to have “questionable” photos taken of me at my expense! 10. Hiking with Art & taking a plunge into a glacier pool, water was 6C, air temperature 11C. One of the best rushes I've ever had, I’ll do it again. Art jumped in twice, a true extremist! 11. Staying over night in the Asulkan hut & waking up to a fantastic view of the glacier, (the fog cleared - briefly). 12. Realising that being cold & wet isn't so bad if you never stop moving. 13. My lurid stories after a couple of beers. 14. Isabelle & Chris getting engaged on a rainy mountain (but nevertheless romantic). 15. Stories of people getting snowed & hailed on. 16. My “Herbal Essence” moment when the sun came out briefly on the top of Pearly Rock. 17. Seeing the glacier caves at Pearly Rock. 18. Paul Chapman taking a group photo at Pearly rock with a nice view in the background....except by the time he worked out how to use his camera the clouds had rolled back in. 19. Art & me losing the others (Stephane, Sophie & Luc) on Avalanche & climbing up further thinking they were ahead, we didn't get to the summit or meet up with the rest of our group, but bumped into Brenda, Brian, & Andrew instead. 20. Art & I deciding to take a scramble route down Avalanche over all the huge boulders, great fun. 21. Cooling beer on the Asulkan Glacier......(worth hiking up with it). 22. Me claiming I was taking a “shortcut” when I missed my footing & shot down the side of a dodgy cliff. (A bush + ice axe on the back of my pack broke my fall!) 23. The shower bags, what a blessing!

Rebecca Smith

Section Camp Slide Show November Social at Norway Nordic

Where: Norway Nordic 127 Rue Ste. Anne, Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue (514)-457-9131 www.NorwayNordic.com

When: Wednesday November 17 at 7PM until 10 PM Info- Suzanne Bolam <[email protected]>


ACC Montreal Section Camp photos by Luc Massicotte


Photo by Paul Gregoire

“Take me home” By Walter

Almost heaven, Rogers Pass, Selkirk Mountains, Asulkan Valley Life is old here, older than the trees, younger than the glaciers re-ceding with the breeze

*Mountain roads, take me home, to the place where I belong, Selkirk mountains, Alpine hikers, take me home mountain roads

Early riseres, waking up at dawn Packing all their gear, hoping to see Sir Donald Crammed in to Asulkan hut, hoping for sun & scenery Misty taste of rainfall, teardrops in our eyes

*Mountain roads, take me home, to the place where I belong, Selkirk mountains, Alpine hikers, take me home mountain roads

I smell the food, in the morning hours Eileen calls me Her hearty meal remind me of my home far away Riding on the bus, I get a feeling that I should have been home Yesterday, Yesterdaaaaaaaaaay

*Mountain roads, take me home, to the place where I belong, Selkirk mountains, Alpine hikers, take me home mountain roads *Mountain roads, take me home, to the place where I belong, Selkirk mountains, Alpine hikers, take me home mountain roads

“Here comes the Rain” By Walter

Little Darlin’ it’s been a long, cold, foggy, section camp, Little Darlin’ it seems like years since the sun's been here.

Here comes the rain, here comes the rain, And I say It's all crap

Little Darlin’ the smiles returning slowly to their faces Little Darlin’ it's cause of all the empty wine & beer cases

Here comes the rain, here comes the rain, And I say It's all crap

Little Darlin’ I feel the glacier ice is slowly melting Little Darlin’ at least we have Rebecca to bring us cheer

Here comes the rain, here comes the rain, And I say It's all crap Here comes the rain, here comes the rain, And I say It's all crap.

Disclaimer: Any similarities or resemblance with copy-righted material is purely coincidental and a direct result of alcohol & [painkilling] drugs.

Section Camp Songs


Waivers You MUST sign the Outings Waiver on all ACC outings This ensures that the club is protected by accident in-surance. In the event of an accident on an ACC outing, you must report the circumstances to the outings co-ordinator or the section chair as soon as possible. Fur-thermore, If you are travelling to the United States (i.e. Keene Farm) you are strongly advised to carry some sort of travellers medical insurance. Remember that YOU may be financially responsible for any expenses (possibly huge) that result from having to seek rescue or medical attention. Advice on trail/climbing conditions The National Office of the ACC advises us that legally we are not qualified to provide advice relating to con-ditions or hazards that may be encountered by our

members or anyone else involved in outdoor pursuits. Furthermore we can be held legally responsible if we give out bum info that leads to an accident. Therefore, if you are looking for advice on trail conditions or want that latest for-est fire report, you will be referred to an authority on the subject or provided with a copy of such information direct from the horse's mouth. M.R. Useful government web-site links at www.accmontreal.ca

I f you are interested in taking part in an outing be sure to call the contact/leader well ahead of time (by Wednesday or Thursday night at the latest, please). Please note that these outings are planned

up to 8 months in advance and sometimes changes are nec-essary due to weather, conditions, access, or leader avail-ability. Check the Montreal Section web site (www.accmontreal.ca) for more up to date information. Some notes of caution: not every outing is for everyone, please take note of the difficulty level of the outing and talk to the leader if you are unsure. These outings are potentially dan-gerous; liability waivers must be signed by all participants (see the website for the waiver text).

For outings with an overnight in a hut, places have to be reserved well in advance by the leader. Please contact the leader at least four weeks before the outing as places on the outing are offered on a first come first served basis. As the reserved places have to be paid for the leader will normally ask for a deposit. In the event of cancellation the deposit is non refundable unless someone else is available to take your place.

If there’s nothing listed on the outings schedule it doesn’t always mean that nothing’s happening. On winter weekends there are nearly al-ways people setting out cross country skiing from the Ski House or ice climbing from Keene Farm so you can usually hook up with others there. Otherwise if you have any com-ments or suggestions for outings, please contact the outings coordinator (Brian Kinzie (514) 577 2188) or e-mail him at [email protected].

Finally, if you are going out on the trails or climbing and think that oth-ers from the club might like to join you, why not send an e-mail to the ACC Montreal section’s e-mail announcement system ([email protected]) to invite others along (See website for instructions).

Happy Trails!

Brian Kinzie— Outings Coordinator [email protected]

For outings’ difficulty ratings, please visit www.accmontreal.ca

Outings Schedule Fall/Winter 2004/05

Illustration courtesy Tami Knight


Alpine Club Montreal Section Fall/Winter 2004/05 Activities Calendar

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Indoor Climbing Interested in gym climbing? A casual group meets weekly (almost) to climb at either Allez-Up or Horizon Roc. Top-roping and lead climbing are possible at both gyms, and a belay test is required to climb. Interested? Send an email to: [email protected]

Escalade à l’intérieur L'escalade à l'intérieur vous tente? Chaque se-maine (ou presque!) un groupe se rencontre soit à Allez-Up, soit à Horizon Roc. Il est possible de faire de la moulinette ou du premier de cordé, aux deux endroits. Mais vous devez réussir l'examen d'accréditation avant de grimper. Afin d'être avisé des soirées d'escalade, veuillez transmettre un «e-mail» à : [email protected]

A note about ACC outings The outings in this schedule are not instructional, rather they are a way for members of similar abili-ties to meet and get outside. It is presumed that you have the minimum abililty level necessary - if you are unsure, call the outing contact person who will be able to determine if the level of the outing suits your abililties. You are responsible for hav-ing or renting equipment. Car pooling may be co-ordinated by the outing leader, otherwise you may use the ride board on www.accmontreal.ca All participants must be ACC members in good standing. You will be required to sign a waiver before participating in each outing - these are available at www.accmontreal.ca

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Climbing Gyms (Courtesy of M.E.C.)

Action Directe (Laval) (450) 688-0515

Allez-Up (Montréal) (514) 989-9656

Cal-Cal/Verti-Cam (Montréal) (514) 364-3320

Coyote Rock Gym (Ottawa) (613) 739-4074

Escaladium (Québec) (418) 872-1230

Gravité (Magog) (819) 868-0444

Horizon Roc (Montréal) (514) 899-5000

Roc Gyms (Québec) (418) 647-4422

Vertical Reality (Ottawa) (613) 569-3903


Mt Assiniboine (3618m / 11,874 ft)

W hen Rick Collier sent an email to the Old Goats in July asking for any interest at the chance of

climbing Assiniboine, I jumped at the chance. For a few weeks I had been telling myself that the Rockies might be in an ex-cellent shape this summer with fires al-ready beginning in B.C,. to indicate how dry the mountains might be.

During many seasons of climbing in the Rockies usually only for a couple of weeks or so, I had often eyed both Assiniboine & Edith Cavell as good candidates to climb if the conditions were right.

Rick, as ever the great organiser, suggested that some of us might like to join himself and Mardy as he wanted to climb Terrapin from Magog Lake and also take a look at

Magog, being the last of the summits in the area on his list of climbs.

So myself, Dave Shadbolt and Normand Begin agreed to be a rope of three and at-tempt Assiniboine. Uncertainty prevailed prior to the departure date due to the fires then becoming very serious having already burned down the Fay hut; back country permits were no longer being issued in the southern Rockies. A quick call by Rick to the Assiniboine lodge a few days before my flight left from Montreal for Calgary, gave the assurance that the Park and lodge were still operating, although access was limited.

We took the easy way and flew in by heli-copter on Wednesday August 13th., from Mt Shark and then promptly walked to the camp site at 7000ft, which I mistakenly thought was a stones throw from the heli-

copter pad but which turned out to be a 2.5 km hike and this with 60lbs weight in two packs! Yes they weighed the packs for the helicopter for which I may still have to pay for the extra weight (anything over 40lbs).

After leaving tents, some food and other goods in the safe hands of Rick and Mardy who planned to camp for four nights, Dave, Normand and myself left for the Hind Hut at 9000ft.; Rick offered to guide us up the headwall. As he pointed out, this was the hardest part of the climb up As-siniboine! Up in two and a half hours to find the hut only half full with 9 climbers expected that night. Contrary to expecta-tions and several previous reports, the hut contained foamies, a propane stove, cutlery and pots/pans; so, well-equipped. We did-n’t see nor hear any packrats which had been a description by Rick in the 1980’s of

Scrambles in Assiniboine Park


life in the hut at that time. Beautiful toilet freshly painted.

On the way up the headwall we passed a British couple who needed a rope; we as-sumed they would have problems on the climb. Rick left us to return to the camp-site whilst we three organised ourselves at the hut for the night.

In fact our group of three was the second of two ropes on the mountain the follow-ing day when we left the hut at 0630hrs. The Brits were ahead by a half an hour.

Conditions were perfect although looking directly up the north face and ridge from the hut, it seemed steep. Not until we were on the approach moraine did the angle start to look reasonable. Up we scrambled on good rock mostly on the north face and through the red band without a rope until we reached the grey band, where there was a slightly overhanging bulge. I though it prudent to lower the rope to Dave and Normand, who quickly sailed up. Our British group were now long behind and struggling. A little while later we felt sadly for them as they abandoned the climb. We continued up the N ridge proper to the summit ridge.

At a half hour or so below the summit and at a pre-arranged signal, we called Rick on the radio, who was climbing Ter-rapin with Mardy. A clear reception was available, when we learned they were hav-ing an interesting time on glacier ice and were following a route description that was completely out of date. So much for global warming with the glaciers in retreat.

A few minutes later we were lounging on the summit in a cloudless sky yet there was haze from the fires in B.C and Kananaskis obscuring the views afar away. We could make out Joffre to the south but little to the north. We stayed for an hour and climbed back down with two short rappels in less than 5 hours, to arrive back at the hut at 1630hrs. A round trip of 10hours. No snow was encountered nor ice on the ridge. Surprisingly there was very little rock fall but we were only one of two parties to reach the summit that day, the other being Sepp Renner, operator of the Loj, as guide of a client; two parties had reached the summit the previous day and

as the back country was difficult to access there were no more parties in the hut when we returned, who were to climb the fol-lowing day.

Magog (3095m—10150 ft.)

A t another pre-arranged radio call that evening, Rick easily per-suaded me to climb Magog the

following day (Friday). As it was now es-tablished that I am probably the eldest goat being a month older than Rick, I felt at ease in telling Rick that I normally took a rest day after a 10 or 11 hour day but as we had ambled up and down Assiniboine, without pain, I felt able to tackle the harder Magog. Dave then said he would join us to make a party of three.

So on Friday Rick came up to the moraine adjacent to the hut at 1030hrs directly from the campsite where we roped up for the relatively short hike across the glacier to the Assiniboine/Magog col. We wanted

to have a look at the West ridge. Rick was-n’t so sure it would go easily but we agreed to give it a go. Wheeler had de-scended it in the 1920’s, so it couldn’t be that difficult. I took the lead up the first pitch to a small stance and then brought Dave up as second with Rick then climb-ing through to lead the second pitch (total of two pitches of about 200 feet) to easy ground above. Then a scramble along and around gendarmes and false summits to the true summit of Magog. Barry Blanch-ard claimed to have done the ridge for the eighth time the previous week and used pitons on the steep part. We reckoned it was about a 5.5 as Blanchard reported, perhaps a 5.6. The rock whilst not per-fectly sound was quite acceptable and en-joyable in the hot sun. The temperature that day approached 30C at 9000 ft!

We then looked for the descent route to the north down a couloir, the upper part of which was easy scree and the lower part

fairly low-angled ice (45degrees?), which was not quite the route Blanchard suggests in the hut book but we thought a quicker way off. There were three pitches of front pointing down to easier ground on the gla-cier, for which Rick kindly protected both myself and Dave. Back to the hut for a cup of tea and a return to the campsite where we arrived at 2030hrs. No problem when a grizzly scampered through the campsite according to Normand who was the only one who saw it. Then a few minutes later a deer appeared and quietly browsed, with a badly mauled snout —though not recent, possibly done by a grizzly. We agreed it probably came to stay in the campsite to have protection from the bears!

Unfortunately, Dave caught a very severe bug and was very sick for the following few days. This later put paid to plans for climbing Edith Cavell the following week. Ah well there’s always next year.

The following day was a rest day with all kinds of rumours floating around. First we could not helicopter to Mt.Shark but had to go to Can-more; then only drivers to Shark and so on. It was said that the whole of Kannanaskis was closed. In the event we all flew back to Mt Shark on Sunday morning and on time,

after a wonderful stay in Assiniboine park with a couple of great climbs. Thanks Rick for coordinating and thanks Dave and Nor-mand for coming along.

Martin Taylor

Four year old ACC Member completes his third ascent of Bon Echo’s Birthday Ridge!

The Stone boilers, I believe that’s what the Indian word

Assiniboine means.


Keene info on the website www.accmontreal.ca

The Montreal Section website has current and up-to-date information about visiting Keene Farm. Please visit the website be-fore you send Dave Gillespie an e-mail about Keene conditions. Dave is retiring from active custodianship of Keene Farm and can no longer answer everyone’s ques-tions. He’d like to, but he hasn’t got the time anymore. Lucky for us Dave has writ-ten all the information he knows for the website. Consider our website your new electronic “RoboDave” and give it a visit before you leave for Keene. New Keene Cabin Reservation system at ACC Montreal Section website

Staying at the Keene Cabin? - Don’t send an email to Dave. Dave is retiring from active custodianship of the Keene Farm.

To simplify Dave’s life, we ask that all members planning to stay at the Keene Cabin to please reserve their place by us-ing the new Keene reservation page on the ACC Montreal website. This page will send a confirmation message to the cabin coordinator so we can still coordinate the cabin usage, but Dave will no longer have to respond to 50+ individual emails a week.

Note: there is no reservation required for camping.

U.S. Border http://www.accmontreal.ca/border.html The United States remains extremely vigi-lant regarding visitors to their country. US Customs will enforce all regulations con-cerning food import restrictions (fruits and vegetables, meat products) and your iden-tity papers like passports, and nation of origin, and basically anything else. This is their right as a nation, and it is the border guards duty to enforce these laws.

What can we do? Will we have problems getting to Keene? The ACC Montreal Section Website at www.accmontreal.ca contains detailed information on this sub-ject. Please visit it for a lot of specific information on the bor-der situation.

If you “plan and prepare” you should have no problem cross-ing the border. Be aware what food products are restricted and DON’T BRING ANY. (Shop in the U.S–there’s a big Price Chopper supermarket in Platts-burgh). Make sure you, and eve-ryone you are traveling with, has proper identity papers. This means bring your passport. Make sure there are no sus-pected terrorists in your vehicle.

Never, ever lie to Customs officials.

With these simple precautions, you should have no problem crossing the border into the United States.

Hut Slippers in the Cabin The Keene Cabin has been noticeably cleaner since the Club started requiring the use of “Hut Slippers” when inside the cabin. There are plenty of slippers beside the front door. Please use them! Lots of alpine huts use this system to keep the hut cleaner. It’s easy, and the benefits are ob-vious! Keene Farm History Read the history of Keene Farm at the ACC Montreal Section website. Just Google History of Keene Farm, or visit the ACC Montreal Section web site at www.accmontreal.ca

Keene Committee Do you have any questions or comments about Keene Farm? [email protected] Weather/Meteo for Keene http://www.srh.noaa.gov/data/forecasts/NYZ034.php?warncounty=NYC029&city=Keene

Adirondack Rescue? Make sure that someone “back home” knows where you have gone, who is the leader (i.e. who would have signed the trail register), and what time you ex-pect to return home.

This information should be written down! Write down your trip details including itinerary, car model and license plate number. Leave this information with someone responsible and where the dog won’t eat it!

If you think someone is lost you can report a missing hiker, (climber etc) in the Adirondacks, call the DEC Forest Ranger Emergency number at 518-891-0235.

K E E N E

N E W S

Adirondack Black Bear info Please see Page 2


7:38 am I get out of the tent early this morning, when I hear “It’s today! It’s to-day!” Suddenly I see my father rush to the van, retrieve his rock climbing gear from the back seat and begin to sort out the equipment.

8:03 am We have breakfast, and soon after, we are on the road to Chapel Pond Slab. My heart is pounding.

8:08 am We are here. My dad is anxious to start climbing. His friend Mario pulls right up behind us with his girl friend Chantal.

8:10 am My father, mother, my dad’s friend Christine and I will climb as a team. Mario, Chantal and my sister will climb as another team.

8:12 am We just finished the hike in, which was only a couple of hundred feet, but ….. I think it is the best hike we had done the whole vacation. My father sets up the ropes and equipment and yells “UP ROPE!” He starts climbing at a steady pace, going up without difficulty.

8:18 am I look to my right and see Chan-tal climbing another route and lugging up a massive bag. I ask about the bag and Chantal replies “this bag belongs to Mario.” Funny, I don’t seem to remember Mario having that bag.

8:20 am “On Belay! Climb when ready” my father yells down to me! I chalk up and give it my best try. After ten minutes of hard climbing I am successful and get up one of the seven pitches. This one is about 120 feet. I tie in and I’m safe. The others follow up soon after.

8:39 am Mario is looking for Chantal, when he sees her head pop up from the

rocks below with two big bags on her back. Mario asks “what the hell is that? Who’s bag is that?” Chantal replies “isn’t this your bag?” “I guess I have to take it down” Mario says.

8:43 am Mario finally gets back up to the top of the first pitch after returning the bag to the bottom of the mountain. That was funny, but not what really concerns me at the moment. What concerns me is that I’m on a 1000 foot rock face and I’m one seventh of the way up. Looking up I think to myself, why in hell am I doing this? Soon after my dad sets himself up and goes for the second time. Christine and I talk about our fears and our beliefs, while my mother belays. Christine is a school teacher with a big kid attitude. She typically pays me to eat gross stuff and laughs at everything I do.

10:07 am We’ve just finished the second pitch. It was much harder than the first, and of course, much higher. My sister crammed her daypack with lots of stuff which she probably did not need. I packed mine light and brought only necessities, such as water and food. My sister, as whiney as she is, sucks up to my dad and I end up carrying her heavy bag the remain-der of the climb. While talking to Chantal about past memories, we suddenly smell a funky odor. It was Christine’s sandwich, which had gone bad over the first two pitches. It smelled so bad, she had to wrap it tight and put it back in her bag.

12:46 pm I was climbing the third pitch and was very tired because there was a large hump with no cracks or nubbins to grip or help in my quest. I had to climb around the hump, rather than over it, to a spot that had hand and footholds. Soon after I start searching I find a spot. I put my foot in a crack, my hand in a “pocket” and push as hard as I can. I made it to the third pitch. Three out of seven pitches completed and I was very happy, but I wanted to do all seven.

1:16 pm Christine just made it to the third anchor station. My mother, down on the second anchor station, tries to take the

protection out of the rock, but it gets caught. It takes her great effort and she can’t get them out. She must leave behind a number seven hex and a number three cam. The combined cost is just under a hundred dollars. She left them. My father was not impressed.

2:38 pm My mother finally gets to the third pitch station, when a massive rain cloud moves to the north mountain in front of us. We are not worried at the moment. My father starts on the fourth pitch. When he reaches the top of the pitch, he tells us “this will be an awesome place to sit.” I climb up there and it turns out to be a mas-sive boulder on the side of the rock face. I sit behind it and talk to my sister. She has done this climb before and states that “the belay station at the end of the next pitch is as big as a bus.” When my mother and Christine arrive, I tell them about this mas-sive ledge above. We all begin to get ex-cited, thinking we won’t be so exposed there. We look down the mountain and see minuscule cars and people. They look like ants running around working, gathering and storing to survive the coming winter.

4:58 pm I climb to the “bus stop”. This was the most difficult short climb I have done in my life. The ledge overlooks Chapel Pond. It is so far down and we are so far up. Christine arrives at the ledge and I tell her how much my fear is kicking in. She consoles me in a friendly way. At this point the rain cloud turned into a white mist all around us and we were surrounded by lightning. We begin to move up again and I must now climb over the crux, the hardest part of the whole seven pitches. It was candy. That is, it was sweet.

6:51 pm The sixth pitch is almost done. I climb up. It was the simplest pitch of all, but the others take so long to climb it. They can’t understand how I could do it that fast. I laughed and told them it was pure skill, but in truth, it was having to suck it up and do what you have to do.

8:20 pm Everyone is up now at the top of (Continued on page 26)

Chapel Pond Slab Keene Valley, Adirondack State Park, New York Tyler Thompson

Be a Keene Farm Volunteer Custodian See Page 5 for update


(Continued from page 25) the sixth pitch and all of the ropes are in neat piles, ready to go, when lightning is right beside us. My dad climbs quickly to the top of the mountain, which is only an-other thirty feet and pulls the rope tight, when all hell breaks loose. Somehow, my dad’s quick moves from the belay station had managed to tangle all three ropes into one massive pile. I twisted and turned through the pile as if I knew what I was doing, crawling through the heap to untan-gle the ropes. I climbed to the top. I am so happy I made it all the way. Christine and my mother soon follow up and we quickly prepare the ropes to move to the rappel station where Chantal, Mario and my sister Keri had already rappelled down.

8:46 pm We are at the rappel station and I am the first one to go down. I am so scared as this was my first really long rap-pel. It is getting dark and the rappel is 200 feet down a very slippery, wet rock face. I get halfway down to a ledge, then look over to see my sister and friends at the bot-tom. I get to the bottom soon and notice my sister wrapped in an emergency blan-ket. She was cold and bordering on hypo-thermia from the rain. She forgot that I had her bag and thought for some reason

that she had left it somewhere up on the rock face. She was very happy to see her bag and warm sweater.

9:20 pm The hike down from the rappel station was brutal. We were um-m-m … We thought we were on the trail, but were walking only by direction, until we ended up at the road. If we had not had Chan-tal’s headlamp, we could have been wan-dering in the woods until sunrise.

9:46 pm We are sweaty, sore and tired, yet luckily only a few minutes from Chapel Pond, which is clean water and oh, so refreshing. We swim for well over five minutes and suddenly realize how late it is. We have to get to a restaurant before clos-ing time, which in this case, was ten o’clock.

9:56 pm None of us want to go back to the camp that late at night and cook. We get to the restaurant with only minutes to spare and order our meals before ten o’clock. We are allowed to eat. I told my mother months before that I had always wanted to do that climb. During our late supper, she told me “Tyler, I am very proud of you.” This was one of the best days of my life.

Note: Each summer, I bring a number of climbers from the Borden Climbing Club, Borden Ontario down to Keene Farm for about a week. On 4 August this year, seven members of the club climbed a variation of Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab. We climbed in one party of three and another party of four. My 14 year old son Tyler, my wife Dawn and our friend Christine Ignas climbed with me leading the route in a party of four. My 15 year old daughter Keri climbed with friends Mario St-Gelais and Chantal Roy who are also Montreal Section members. Mario, Keri and I had climbed Chapel Pond Slab a number of times before. It was the first time for the other four climbers. It turned out to be a very exciting day. We started early in sun-shine and finished late in the dark and rain. I was telling Dave Gillespie about this story later and he suggested that I submit it to The Montage. It was written by Tyler, who has an admitted fear of heights, for an English class at school. He received 100% for the story. The timings are somewhat skewed, but the story is real, from his perspective.

Marshall Thompson, Montreal Section

Chapel Pond Slab

www.accmontreal.ca/keenefarm.html email: [email protected] Welcome Bienvenue

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M onday, August 2nd , 2004. The email is a desperate attempt to find a cameraman with climbing

and mountaineering experience. In less than three days a private search team of 18 individuals is leaving Montreal for the most northern reaches of Quebec and the expedition cameraman has cancelled. The group is heading to the double-named mountain - Mont d’Iberville / Mount Caubvick, the highest point in both Que-bec and Labrador, in search of two climb-ers who disappeared in August of 2003.

I pound out a message stating my interest. An hour later Andy Pedersen, a young, dynamic, budding producer from Halifax, calls. I drift discreetly out of the office so that I might talk freely. Andy likes what he hears but the final decision comes to Ro-land Hanel – one of the expedition leaders and the best friend of one of the missing climbers. Maybe it is the Germanic cold-ness of Roland that prevents me from fig-uring out if I am going to be “okayed” to join the expedition or the fact that he – in a

rush to complete the final details – is spread so thin that I basically get two grunts out of him with no sense of whether my fate is thumbs up or down. Andy calls in the evening to tell me that it was a go! The next day I quit my job.

Dan Pauzé and Susan Barnes were 31 and 32 in August 2003 when they set out for the trip of a lifetime. It was an ambitious adventure to the northern reaches of Que-bec and Labrador in the pursuit of the summit, after which they planned to canoe out of the region via the Koroc river. At 1653m (5423 ft) it is not a particularly high peak nor is the mountain technically demanding but, being so far north and hundreds of kilometres away from the nearest habitation, it offers a remoteness that makes it a terribly isolated destination for two climbers, more so if one is to stumble in harm’s way.

Dan had researched the mountain thor-oughly. He had called Jack Bennett, the first person to climb all the high points in Canada (a trick that got Jack a mention in

Torngats Discoveries A free trip, a grim discovery François Senécal-Tremblay

ACC Montreal Section Email message August 2 Folks:

I was just contacted by a group organising a trip to the Torngat Mountains to search for the remains of a pair of Canadian climbers that were lost near Mount Caubvick (Mt. D'Iberville) last summer.

They had originally intended to produce a video documentatry of their expedition how-ever at the last minute their camera-person could not join the trip.

They are now desperately searching for someone with solid alpine experience to join the trip who would be capable of doing the video work.

Your travel expenses and video camera equipment would be covered but you would need your own gear. The trip leaves on Thursday August 5, and returns August 15.

Contact me ASAP if you know of anyone who would be interested, qualified, and available for this expedition.

Mike Rogers

The Koroc Ridge at the Step


the Guinness Book of World Records). In their exchange, Jack had given advice to Dan on various routes and warned him that one particular section back from the sum-mit, a notch, also called the Step along the Koroc Ridge, might be impossible to climb in bad weather.

Most of the approach to the summit is along a wide up-sloping boulder-strewn plateau that seems to be never ending, but the final approach includes a traverse along a narrow knife-edge ridge which suffers from great exposure on both sides.

Jack describes the Koroc Ridge in a book about his Canadian climbs as “… the ridge becomes airy and exposed and is crowned with several pinnacles. Most pin-nacles can be passed without difficulty, but the final one, leading down to the dike notch (The Step) is much more difficult. Rappel down the face of this pinnacle to the notch… the rappel rope may be left in place to be used as a top belay during the return…. From the summit... retrace the ascent route in reverse… The rappel rope left at the dike pinnacle, which is the crux of the route, may be conveniently used to top belay for the return.”

Wednesday, August 3rd. In the early eve-ning, the two families of the missing climbers invite the expedition members to dinner at a hotel near the airport. It is an emotionally bonding experience for most of the expedition team members, who are meeting the families for first time. We in-terview each family in their rooms. It is heart wrenching. Even though the parents know that their babies must be dead – without proof they hold on to hope that it is just not so. By the time we finish, I get home to pack, and return to the hotel it is 1:00 am. The plane for Kuujjuaq leaves at 9:00 am.

The First Air flight is delayed four hours. It is raining and miserable in Kuujjuag and within a hour we embarked in the three Twin Otters and are off in weather that should have kept any sane pilot on the ground.

The pilot flies low and up river valleys, in order to dodge the low cloud cover and stay within visual contact of land. I joked to the pilot that he could get a better pair of windshield wipers at Canadian Tire. He cracks up. He and the co-pilot must have

learned to fly in go-kart school; this is hands-on, seat of the pants flying, bounc-ing about in the turbulence, at the limit of the plane’s stalling capacity, the engine revving to the point of numbing your mind. No fly by wire! Sweat pours out of my pores as he zigs and zags through val-leys. For a moment, I am sure they’re lost – their fingers caress a folded map too many times for my comfort, the co-pilot points left then right then left again as we fly tight circles at low altitude, flaps down, engines screaming, the pilot’s hands moves from throttle to wing controls and back and forth. I film the passengers in the cabin who are, like me, sweating and turn-ing green and nervously viewing the land-scape below and then the closest vomit bag. We land like a dune-buggy smacking into the ground on fat bouncing tires and skid to a stop. Before we know it we have piled out of the plane into the cold misty rain and the pilot and co-pilot are tossing our gear onto the gravel.

It is getting dark, the cloud cover is low, the planes must leave quickly. Andy and I shake hands, “Don’t take any risks,” he tells me and before I know it he is heading back for Kuujjuaq. I am a one-man docu-mentary team.

I drag my two packsacks of gear and cam-era bag towards the end of the gravel strip. Already some tents are up, most people are two to a tent. I carry gear for 10 days - everything I need for myself, by myself. I follow suit and pass a shivering first night. “If all of them are like this,” I tell myself, “I’m toast.”

In the morning, before most, I sorted through my gear discarding things I think I do not need; I leave my wallet, the heavy rain suit, the camera case, some climbing gear, the GPS – if I followed Roland – the main character of the documentary – the only way I will get lost is if he does. It is 6 am. The team splits in half. One team go-ing to the north side of the mountain. I load up my pack and crumble under the weight – nearly 100 pounds. I prop myself up against my two extendable ski poles to prevent from crashing down. There are 16 uphill kilometres separating us from the south side base camp. We wade the Koroc River, climb up the slopes of the surround-ing mountains to avoid the marshy lands near the river and a couple of black bears

and trod slowly towards our goal. Fortu-nately it is sunny and the temperature is about 10 degrees; with the exertion I am hot and soon just in my tee-shirt.

This is a land without trees, just moss and boulders. A landscape where distance is hard to judge. The last kilometre is endless and though I can see the others in distance setting up camp, I walk for hours without apparently getting any nearer. Wiped out, I eventually crawl into base camp but I hold to my diminishing pride by not being the last. I just beat out Tom who at 61 is the eldest member of our team. A very small hoorah!

Our base camp is only metres away from where Dan and Sue had set-up their camp the year before. The search party from last year had removed Dan and Sue’s tent and gear. The families had cried “foul,” what if Dan and Sue were still alive and wander-ing in the area? If they made it back to camp all their gear would be gone. At the families insistence, the gear was flown back and – it seemed – air dropped near their original base camp. Now, the gear lays in a small creek – in a large blue bar-rel and a huge waterproof bag torn by some animal’s curiosity.

Saturday, August 7th. Roland, Andrew Lavigne and I are off by 5:30 am. Andrew, who has climbed Mount Rainer, had met Dan and Roland when they were planning their climb of that summit. As the days wear on Andrew shows himself as solid as a rock and everyone’s favourite pack-animal. When one fatigues from walking and the weight of their gear became more than they wish to bear, Andrew “volunteers” to take the excess weight.

I am suffering from high-mountain cam-era-fever. The raw-beauty of this high Arctic region calling for me to capture it

(Continued on page 30)


(Continued from page 29) on tape. When Andrew and Roland take a break, I sprint off up ahead so that I can shoot them approaching – sometimes a kilometre away. After five hours going up the mountain’s barren rocky landscape, we finally crest the Minaret Ridge, one of more popular routes leading to the summit.

In the distance, maybe seven kilometres away, we can make out another group; Sue, Mitch, and John climbing the Koroc Ridge - the route that Dan and Sue had in-tended to climb. They are advancing along their ridge and within an hour will be reaching the arête leading to the summit. From there they will have to find their way along a vertical labyrinth whose narrowest point is less than half a metre wide and of-fers an exposure of some 300 vertical me-tres on both sides. They are, without know-ing it, on the path to stumble across Dan’s body that lays width-wise across the base of the Koroc Step.

The buzz of a distance helicopter rises from the valley. The Parks Canada team has finally been able to leave fog bound Nain Labrador and is flying in. They im-mediately start searching the mountain along the summit and the Koroc Ridge; we all know that a helicopter searching for the bodies of missing climbers should have more success than 18 people walking in a huge boulder field maze where their eyes are locked on their next footstep.

In the distance, we can tell that the helicop-ter must have found something. It lingers along the Koroc Ridge at the Step – hover-ing like a vulture over a rotting corpse. Ro-land pulls out his radio and attempts to make contact with the helicopter. The call from Parks Canada is for all three teams to hold their positions and the confirmation that they have located a body. The helicop-ter flies towards us. Gord Irwin, the Park Warden in charge of the search, climbs out. He confirms that two park wardens had been dropped off and are presently climb-ing down towards the body. The colour of the parka indicates that the body is that of Dan’s. Gord is polite. Without ordering the teams to stay put, he requests that they not attempt the summit until the situation is clarified.

I interview Roland asking him about his feelings and inquiring into the possibility of not finding Sue’s body. Roland is sur-

prised that Dan’s body had been found on the ridge. All the informa-tion he had been given by last year’s search party was that there were no bodies on the moun-tain. Last year’s search team had surmised that Dan and Sue must have fallen 300 metres down the mountain into a gla-cier in Labrador. The weather last year may have prevented the heli-copter and those on foot from reaching the higher ridges of the mountain and spotting Dan’s body!? Finding Dan’s body is, all things given, good news for the Pauzé family, but not finding Sue’s would be heart-ache for her’s.

It actually seems too easy, within 48 hours of landing at the Koroc River, Dan’s body has been located. It just does not seem likely that that kind of good fortune can run in pairs.

We get closer to the summit, meet up with Jack Bennett, Billie and Greg who have climb a central ridge and the point, at small plateau, where we have been asked to stay put. We are also metres away from the spot where last year a helicopter pilot picked up a climbing harness belonging to Sue. Did she drop it there going to or coming back from the summit? From there I have a great view of the recovery operation at the Step. I film the helicopter airlifting Dan’s body off the mountain. The sun is out, the temperature nearly 16 degrees – a perfect day in the Torngats!

It is now obvious to everyone that Parks Canada absolutely does not want anyone to continue towards the summit. They claim there is too much danger of rock fall on their two rangers and dog at the foot of the mountain. Some within Roland’s search party feel it is a brush-off. The sort of thing that the pros give to the amateurs when they wanted them out of their hair. Gord offers to helicopter those who wanted back down to the base camp, but this does little

to reduce the grumbling within the group. Eventually, Jack, Billie and Greg decide to climb down in search of possible clues as to Sue’s whereabouts. If her harness was nearby maybe Dan and Sue had climbed the mountain via the Minerat Ridge and attempted to climb down via the Koroc? Or maybe the opposite?

Roland, Andrew and I fly down. With one eye glued on the viewfinder, finger on the record button, I shoot everything. I call out a request that they fly over the Step so that I might have an aerial of where Dan was found. We rocket over the Step and Koroc Ridge and within 12 minutes we are back down at base camp; a four hour downhill hike saved.

At base camp park warden Gord Irwin fills us in on the details: Dan’s body is found laying face down and stretched out. His upper torso and head in Quebec; the rest of his body in Labrador. The thought crosses my mind that it is bizarre that one can die in two provinces; it could be a jurisdic-tional nightmare. There is no obvious sign of injury – no broken bone. But his body is severely decomposed and will not reveal


its secrets easily. Dan’s climbing rope is tied to a rock pinnacle and leads down-wards off the ridge and onto the cliff. Half way down the rope a ranger finds a pack-sack: inside are a camera and a video-camera. It might hold clues as to what route Dan and Sue took to climb up the mountain and what happened to them. The rope seems to indicate that Dan was trying to lower his pack, but why? Was he trying to lower his pack to Sue? Had she fallen off the ridge? Was he trying to climb down in order to reach her? Was he setting up the rope so that he might climb down the cliff and get out of the wind? Why was the rope there? Why had it been removed from the rappel station when they must have know that they would need it to climb back up the Step. Had he fallen while at-tempting to climb the Step, the rope pull-ing out of the anchor(s)? If Dan had hurt himself, Sue would have been unable to climb the Step on her own and in order to save herself or get help she would have had to climb back to the summit and than crossed the Minaret Ridge? Was she try-ing to reach their base camp, their sat-phone, or maybe reach another couple who were camped on the other side of the mountain but who were totally unaware of Dan and Sue’s plight?

Gord confirms that Dan and Sue reached the summit for the rangers found a note in the summit register. “August 11th, 2004. Dan Pauzé and Susan Barnes In a wicked snow storm” So, whatever happened, it happened on the way down.

There are, even with the recovery of Dan’s body, many unanswered questions and scenarios to ponder, but as Gord says, “In search theory, one searches where the clues are concentrated.” It all likelihood, Sue is at the foot of the south side of the mountain probably covered in snow. After almost one week of trying to fly into the region, Parks Canada’s search window of opportunity is closing. If they do not find Sue by early afternoon of the next day they will have to pull out. There was no point, Gord stresses, of searching the whole val-ley. They have to concentrate their efforts were the clues are pointing but the prob-lem is that if Sue is beneath the snow, she might be so far down and frozen in, that the dog will have no chance of picking up a scent. If Parks Canada fails to find her,

Gord advises Roland to search and explore the south side snow bowl the day before leaving. With the snow melting so quickly her body might be near or on the surface by then.

Sunday August 8th. We are six to climb towards the summit via the Koroc Ridge. Billie and Greg who leave ahead of Ro-land, Andrew, Tom and I. Tom slips while crossing a stream - a bad omen. Four hours of slogging up the mountain brings us to the outside edge of the south-ern bowl. The view on the mountain and the south bowl beneath, where Sue might be, is breathtaking. Another beautiful day. Gord’s voice beckons Roland. “We have found Susan. I think we are in the presence of a hero.” Her body is not in the snow bowl but at the base of a cliff on the north side of the mountain nearly two kilometres away from Dan’s final resting place. Why

is she there? To get there she had to leave Dan and returned to the summit than trav-erse the Minerat Ridge. Had Dan fallen and hurt himself at the Koroc Step? Was she trying to get help, save Dan, save her-self? The conditions on the mountain that day, as we had witness by the pictures taken by the other couple on the mountain the year before, were simply horrible. How long had she stayed by Dan’s side before knowing she had to leave? Was it dark? It would have taken at least two to three hours to return to the summit and cross the Minerat Ridge. She would have success-fully traversed the ridge, reached easier ground, dropped her harness at the edge of the plateau, only to, exhausted, disoriented by the snow, clouds and cold, fall to her death by walking off the edge of the pla-teau and plunging 50 metres. Ironically,

she lay only metres away from where we had been, the day before, as we waited and watched the helicopter retrieve Dan’s body. Had Dan waited in vain for her to return with help before he had succumbed in turn; never knowing why she was not returning?

When the pictures from Dan’s camera were developed they showed him and Sue on the summit – happy! The conditions were bad, but not so much as to take the smiles of reaching the summit off their faces. The pictures showed them climbing up the Koroc Ridge and on the summit – but there are no pics after that. It also meant the Sue had found her way across the long, exposed Minerat Ridge, without prior knowledge of the route in horrible conditions and under the terrific stress of Dan’s predicament – an amazing feat born out of the despair of survival.

In less than three days after reaching the foot of the mountain, but a year after they had gone missing both Dan and Sue had been found. There was no way, Roland mused, that their search efforts could have afforded the cost of renting a helicopter but if Parks Canada was there because of them than it did not matter who had found Dan and Sue. What was important to him, to the families, and to the members of the team was that Dan and Sue could now go home.

All six of us would proceed to the sum-mit, crossing the point where Dan’s

body had been found, than descending via the Minerat Ridge to where Sue’s body was. Tom, moving at half the pace of the others, and a definitely a liability to all of us on the exposed ridges, slowed us down so that by the time we reach base camp it was 4 am in the morning. What should have been a 12 –14 hour day had become a 23 hour epic adventure… but that is a story that will have to wait for another time.


A n opportunity to taste some of Montreal’s interesting cultural cuisine amongst friends and fellow outdoors enthusiasts and

to participate in the functioning of the Alpine club.

This year, the AGM promises to offer an opportunity for everyone to learn more about the functions of our club and to participate in the decision making, all set in a relaxed atmosphere.

The evening will end with a tribute to alpine pursuits with an audiovisual presentation by Yves St-Pierre who will present the slides of his trip in August 2003 to Bylot Island in the Arctic. Not to be missed!

We hope to see you there and we welcome all partici-pants, members and non members alike.

Date: Wednesday December 1, 2004 Time: 6:00 p.m. Place: Restaurant Cracovie, 5349 Gatineau, Montreal (two blocks north of where Blacks used to be, one block east of Cote des Neiges Metro.) Cost: $18.00 (includes taxes and services, but drinks excluded). $20.00 after November 24th (if space is still available)

Menu: Soup, main dish of chicken schnitzel with potatoes and vegetables, or vegetarian plate, apple charlotte and coffee. *Vegetarians must indicate their choice on the coupon.

Tickets must be reserved by sending the coupon below no later than November 24th with a cheque, to Ed Potworowski, 547 Dawson Avenue, Town of Mount-Royal, QC, H3R 1C5 (Ticket purchase is necessary for meal and participation.)

* Non-smoking event

Montreal Section AGM 2004 / Assemblée générale annuelle, section Montreal 2004

Name(s) / Nom(s)...…………………………………………………………………….

Address / Addresse…………………………………………………………………….

Téléphone (……)……………………….

Number of Tickets / Nombre de billets……………………..x $18.00 = ………..

Vegetarian? / Végétarien? ..........

Payment by cheque to: Montreal section, ACC Addresser votre chèque à: Montreal section, ACC.

Deadline November 24, 2004 / Date limite: le 24 novembre, 2004

L’assemblée générale annuelle de la section Montréal 2004

L e temps est venu pour vous éveiller le sens du goûté lors de l’assemblée annuelle “AGM” de la section Montréal du club alpin.

Cette année, le repas promet de stimuler vos papilles gustatives lors des présentations des bilans de fins d’année tout en vous permettant le privilège de participer au fonctionnement de notre club.

La soirée se terminera avec une présentation audiovisuelle mettant en valeur les exploits en alpinisme d’un de nos membres qui a vécu des aventures spectaculaires.

Nous souhaitons le bienvenu à tous!

Date : mercredi le 1 décembre 2004 Heure: 18h00 Lieu : Restaurant Cracovie, 5349 Gatineau, Montreal (est de metro Cote des Neiges) Coût : $18.00 (taxes et services inclus, consommations en sus) ($20 apres le 24 novembre)

Menu : soupe, légumes mélanges, poulet « schnitzel » ou choix végétarien, pommes Charlotte et café. * tous végétariens doivent s’identifiés pour que le plat vegétérien soit préparé

Les billets peuvent être achetés en envoyant le coupon ci-dessous à Ed Potworowski, 547 Daw-son Avenue, Ville de Mont-Royal, QC, H3R 1C5 avant le 24 novembre 2004. (L’achat du billet est essentiel pour participer au repas et à la soirée.)

* Évènement non-fumeur

2004 ACC Montreal Section Annual General Meeting

Evening’s schedule 18h00 registration and opening of the bar 19h00 supper 20h00 Annual General Meeting 20h30 audiovisual presen-tation Déroulement de la soirée 18:00 Inscriptions et ou-verture du bar 19:00 Souper 20:00 Assemblée générale annuelle 20:30 Présentation audio-visuelle

Yves St-Pierre will present a slide

show of his trip in August 2003 to

Bylot Island in the Arctic.

Not to be missed!

montage 62.3.pub

Documents

Transcript of montage 62.3.pub