Molded Papier Maniqui Papel Mache

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    Molded Papier-Mch Formcomments (23)October 24th, 2008 infitting

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    Threads Magazine, editor

    149 users recommend

    Photo: David Coffin

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    by David Coffinfrom Threads #75, p.40

    The best thing about the poured-foam form that you make from a surgical-plastercast or mold is that the mold makes a very accurate copy of your body contours,complete with distinct collarbones and shoulder blades. It's more accurate in thisregard than the other methods (duct-tape dress form #1, duct-tape dress form#2, paper-tape dress form). Plaster is also better at molding to and preservingconcavities, so this is a good approach if your body has distinct hollows that tapemight simply fill over. But the downside of the poured-foam process is the foamitself, which is expensive, somewhat toxic, and hard to find.

    Gail Gosser, an artist and art teacher from Schwenksville, Pennsylvania, likes theaccuracy of the plaster mold (you can get the plaster and directions for making themold from My Twin Dressforms). Her method solves the foam problem byreplacing it with ordinary papier-mch. Use paper-pulp insulation mixed withwallpaper paste (both from a building-supply store) to make the mch, and cutthe plaster mold from the body along the sides instead of in front and back as isusual when pouring in foam.

    1. Use paper-pulp insulation mixedwith wallpaper paste to make themch, and cut the plaster mold fromthe body along the sides, not in frontand back.

    3. Then build up a 1/2-in. layer of

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    2. Line each half of the mold withpaper towels to keep the papiermch from sticking to the plaster.

    mch, forming a smooth, wider edgealong the mold's edge where the twomch halves will be glued together.

    4. When both halves are filled(above), let them dry (helping withfans and hair dryers if the weather isdamp).

    5. Then smooth the surface textureby spreading more thin mch overthe cracks (right).

    6. Join the mch halves with white 7. Slide shims under the cords to

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    glue spread thickly along the widenededges, and tie them together firmly,

    tighten them as the glue dries.

    When the glue is dry (and at any point inthe future, if needed), reinforce the joinand edges with more mch in pulp ortraditional strip form. Finally, cover the

    form with knit fabric (the mch is toohard to pin into directly) and mount it onthe clever dress-form stand shown atleft.

    This method is time-consuming (dryingtime can add days) but very accurate,and it suits Gail's training as a sculptor.One further advantage: you can makeneck-and-shoulder-only molds to createanatomically correct coat hangers forfinished tailored jackets and works in

    progress.

    More dress forms:

    IntroductionDuct-Tape Dress Form #1Duct-Tape Dress Form #2Paper-Tape Dress Form

    Here's a swiveling stand you canmake for any dress form from easilypurchased materials.

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