Mold Resurfacing

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    COMPOSITE MOLD RESURFACINGWITH DURATEC AND AQUA-BUFF PRODUCTS

    Hawkeye Industries Inc.

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    Repair vs. Resurfacing

    Chips, cracks and gouges on otherwise sound

    molds can be repaired with Duratec Mold

    Repair Putty, sanded and polished to a

    flawless surface. If however, a mold hasnumerous defects and an overall dull and

    rough finish, resurfacing is the appropriate

    course of action.

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    Duratec and Aqua-Buff Products

    for Polyester and VE Mold Resurfacing

    Duratec Vinyl Ester Mold Repair

    Putty (if needed)

    Duratec Polyester Surfacing

    Primer

    Duratec Vinyl Ester Hi-Gloss

    Topcoat

    Duratec Thinner

    Aqua-Buff Tuff-Stuff Rapid Cut

    Compound

    Aqua-Buff GlossMaster Polish

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    Prepping the Mold

    The surface should be clean, dry and free from oil,grease, wax or other contaminants.

    Ambient temperatures should be in excess of 60F,16C to ensure a rapid and complete cure.

    Time calculations are based on temperatures of77F, 25C.

    Prior to sanding the surface all mold releases mustbe removed using the chemical stripperrecommended by the mold release manufacturer.

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    Prepping the mold

    Starting from a

    correctly shaped and

    dimensionally stable

    mold, sand the entire

    surface with a coarse

    sandpaper (80- or

    120-grit), making sureto feather in puttied

    and filled areas.

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    Prepping the mold

    Wipe the

    sanded

    surface with

    acetone and

    a clean white

    towel. Do not

    use a tackrag.

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    Product preparation

    Thoroughly stir Duratec Polyester Surfacing

    Primer prior to catalyzing.

    Due to the rapid gel time of the primer,mix only the amount that can be applied

    within 16-18 minutes @77F, 25C.

    (Higher temperatures yield a shorter pot

    life and gel time, while lower temperaturesyield a longer pot life and gel time.)

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    Product preparation

    Catalyze at 2 percent with

    mekP catalyst (20 cc per quart).

    The primer can be thinned up to

    10 percent if necessary to

    achieve a fine spray. Thin with

    Duratec Thinner or Methyl Ethyl

    Ketone solvent aftercatalyzation.

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    Spraying the mold

    We recommend a gravity-

    feed, siphon or pressure

    pot system with a 2.5

    millimeter tip and 38-42

    psi of line pressure (12-15

    psi in a pressure pot).

    Apply a "tack coat" to theentire surface and allow it

    to flash for 2 minutes.

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    Spraying the mold

    Follow with wet passes,

    slowly building to the

    desired thickness of 15

    mils (375 microns)unless the surface is

    unusually rough and

    requires a greater

    build.

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    Spraying the mold

    Heavier thickness can

    be achieved by

    repeating the

    process immediately

    after gel has

    occurred.

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    Allowing the mold to dry

    The primer will

    be dry to the

    touch in 1-4hours, depending

    on thickness and

    temperature, and

    ready to sandwithin 2-4 hours

    at 77F, 25C.

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    Sanding the mold

    Dry sand the entire

    surface with 80- or

    120-gritsandpaper.

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    Cleaning the mold

    Wipe the surface with

    acetone and a clean white

    cloth. Do not use a tack rag.

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    Topcoating the mold

    To achieve the

    ultimate gloss

    and surfacedurability apply

    Duratec Vinyl

    Ester Hi-Gloss

    Coating.

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    Product Preparation

    Thoroughly stir Duratec

    Polyester Hi-Gloss Coating

    prior to catalyzing. Due to the

    rapid gel time of the coating,mix only the amountless

    than a quartthat can be

    applied within 15-18 minutes.

    (Higher temperatures yield a

    short pot life and gel time

    while lower temperatures

    yield a longer pot lie and gel

    time.)

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    Product Preparation

    Catalyze at 2 percent

    with low hydrogen

    peroxide mekP catalyst

    (20 cc per quart). Thin

    after catalyzing with

    Duratec Thinner if

    needed to create a finespray.

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    Spraying the topcoat

    We recommend a gravity-feed, siphon or pressure potspray system with a 1.8

    millimeter tip and 38-42 psiof line pressure (12-15 psiwith pressure pot).

    (This work was done with a

    Binks M1G cup gun and a2.2 millimeter tip at 40pounds of line pressure.)

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    Spraying the topcoat

    Apply a "tack coat" to the

    entire surface and allow it

    to flash for 2 minutes.

    Follow with a mist coat and

    two-three wet passes to

    achieve a thickness of 15-

    20 mils, 375-500 microns,over the sanded surface.

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    Curing the topcoat

    Allow the topcoat to cure to a

    dry-to-the-touch condition

    (4-8 hours at 77F, 25C).

    If properly applied there will

    be very little orange peel or

    dry overspray.

    The topcoat must be sandedand polished to achieve full

    cure and best performance.

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    Sanding the topcoat

    When the topcoat has cured,begin with the finestsandpaper that will takedown the surface profile andsand the surface, workingthrough the grits, up to 1000-grit paper.

    Note: For best results, after sanding, wait atleast overnight at 77F, 25C before

    compounding and polishing the surface. Forexceptionally large molds that require twodays or more days of sanding, no waiting isnecessary.

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    Compounding the mold

    Remove scratches

    with Aqua-Buff

    Tuff-Stuff Rapid

    Cut Compound.We recommend

    an industrial

    style buffer,

    operating at

    2200 rpm.

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    Compounding the mold

    Apply Tuff-Stuff in

    three (3) quarter-size

    mounds per square footto the mold surface. (If

    the compound builds up

    on the pad reduce the

    amount applied.)

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    Compounding the mold

    Using a professional

    buffer, buff with a wool

    or wool-blendcompounding pad. The

    surface should look wet.

    If not, apply more Tuff-

    Stuff.

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    Compounding the mold

    Buffing speeds will vary

    depending on individual

    buffing styles, butbuffing at too high of a

    speed (greater than

    2200 rpm) can cause

    surface burning.

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    Compounding the mold

    Buff the surface with

    Tuff-Stuff until the haze

    is eliminated and allsanding scratches are

    removed.

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    Polishing the mold

    Polish the mold

    with Aqua-Buff

    GlossMasterPolish.

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    Polishing the mold

    ApplicationApply

    GlossMaster in three (3)

    quarter-size moundsper square foot to the

    surface that is to be

    polished. (If the polish

    builds up on the pad,

    reduce the amount

    applied.)

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    Polishing the mold

    Using a professional

    buffer, polish with a soft

    polishing pad.

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    Polishing the mold

    While polishing, thesurface should look wet.If not, add more

    GlossMaster.Polishing speeds willvary depending onpolishing styles, but wehave found that speedsof 2400 rpm work well.

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    Polishing the mold

    To obtain the highest

    possible gloss finish, you

    may follow with anegg-crate foam

    polishing pad. You will

    want to use a water

    mister bottle to keep

    the surface wet.

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    Polishing the mold

    Polish until the haze is

    eliminated and you

    have a smooth, glossyfinish.

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    Mold Resurfacing

    To order Duratec and

    Aqua-Buff products

    contact your local

    distributor. For more information

    about the full line of

    our products, visit our

    web site at

    www.duratec1.com

    http://www.duratec1.com/http://www.duratec1.com/