.. , -

.. -.. -

Modernist Cuisine The Art and Science of Cooking

Volume 6

Kitchen Manual

The Cooking Lab

..

... .. '" .. '" ..

'\ oJ

... ..

" ..

..

'" oJ .. '" .. " .. '"

.. '" .. .. , "' \ "'

" " " ..

TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 2

How to Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ............. .... 2

Cantonese Fried Rice ........ ........ ........ ........ .... .... ... ... ......... ....... 2

How to Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven .......... ... ..... ....... .. 3

Combi Oven Roast Chicken .......... ... ................ ........ .............. 3

Combi Oven Rib Eye .......... .... ............ .. ............. .. ............. .. .... . 4

Roast Pigeon Crown .... ........................ .. ........ ............ .......... .... 4

Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli .. ...... .. .. .. ......... ....... .. ............ 5

CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 6 Best Bets for Stocks .. .. .. .. .... .. ................................................... 6

Best Bets for Stock Aromatics .... ... .... ....... .. ............... ......... .. .. 8

Spiced Shellfish Stock .......................... ........ .... .... .... ........... .... 9

Paella Stock .. ................................................... ... ............ ... ... .... 9

Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion ............... 10

Brown Beef Stock .............. .. .. ...... .... .... ...... .......... .. ....... ......... 10

Brown Veal Stock .. .. .. .. ... ..... .. ........ .... ..... .... ..... .. ..................... 11

Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock ...... .... .... .... ........... 11

Onion Stock .. .... .. .. .. .... ............... ... .. ... ...... .... ..... .. ....... ....... ..... 11

How to Make Stock Sous Vide .... ... ... .... ....... ........................ 12

Sous Vide Fish Stock .......... ..... ... ...... ..... .. ... .... ... ........... ......... 12

Sous Vide Vegetable Stock ............ .... .. ............ .. ..... ............... 13

Best Bets for Broths ............... ...... .. .... .. .... .. ............... .... ... ...... 14

Borscht Broth .. .. .................. ... ...... .... .... ..... ... ........ ........ ...... .... 14

Hon Dashi ............ .. ...... .. .... ..... ..... .. .... .. ..... .. .... .. ...... ..... .......... 15

Ham Broth .................. ........ .. ... ... .. ........... .......... ... ....... ...... ..... 16

Oxtail Pho Broth ................................................................... 16

Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf.. ...... .. ...................... 16

Laksa Broth .................. .... ...... .. ........................ ....... ... ............ 17

Bouillabaisse Broth .. ...... ...... ... ..... ........ .. ... .. .. ........... .. .......... . 17

Bacon Dashi ............... .. ..... .... ... ... .... .. ... ... ......... ...................... 18

Tom Yum Broth .... ........... ........... ... .. .... .... ... ...... .. ................... 18

Cured Ham Broth .... ....... .......... ... ..... ... ..... ..... .. ........ ........ ... ... 18

Baked Potato Broth ........ ...... .. .... ... .. ..... .. ........ .. ...... .. ... .......... 19

Goulash Broth ... ............ ......... ..... ................ ... .. ....... .. ....... ..... . 19

Mushroom Broth ............ ....... ....... .. ........ .. ..................... ........ 19

Best Bets for Infused Liquids .. .. .... .. .......... ....... ............ ........ 20

Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers ............. 21

Sous Vide Ponzu .................. .. ........................ ............. ....... .... 22 Best Bets for Lowering pH .. .. ......... .. .. .. .. ..... .... ... .. .. ....... ....... 22

Typical Acid Concentrat ions ........ .. ..................................... 23

Seaweed Vinegar .. ........ ..................... .. ..... ... ......... .. ..... ........... 23

Elder Flower Vinegar .......... ........ ............................... .. ........ . 23

Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette ...... ... .. .. .. ... .-.... 23

Constructed Red Wine Glaze .. ........... .. .............. .. .. .. .. .. ....... 24

Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol ......... .. ............... 24

Clove Oil ............................................. ........ .......... .. ....... ..... ... 25

Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice ......... ... : .... ..... ... ..... .. ..... .. ........ 25

Condrieu Butter ..................... ... .. .............. ..... .. ..... .... ..... ........ 25

Glazed Carrot ........................ ..... .... .. ..... ... ... .. ... ........... .... ...... 25

Marinated Spaghetti Squash .......... ... ........ ...... ....... .. ... .. .... ... 26

H ow to Wash Citrus Oil... .... ................ .. .... .... ....................... 26

Extracting Flavor with Alcohol. ....... ... ... ... ..... .. ..... ....... ....... . 26

Brown Butter Fumet.. ............... .. ..................... .. ....... ........ .... . 26

Hazelnut Oil Extract ........................ ... ......... ... .. ... ....... ....... ... 26

Best Bets for Extracts ...... .... ......................... ...... .. ... .............. 27

House Bitters .... .... ... ............... .. ......... ...... ........... .......... ..... .. .. 27

Fines Herbs Extract ................ .. ... ............ .............. ........... ..... 27

Best Bets for Infused Fats .. .... .. .......... ... .. .. ................ ............ 28

Shellfish Butter ..... ..... ........... .... ....................... ........... ... ........ 29

Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil ........ ....... .... .. ..... .. .. .. ....... ... ........ 29

Spiced Chili Oil .......... ......... ........ : ...... .......... .... ........ ... ........ .. 29

Molasses Butter ........ .... .... .................... ... .......... ................ .. ... 29

Curry Oil ..... ......... .. ...... .......... .... .... .... ... ...... ......... ..... ............. 30

Crab Oil .......... ......... ... ....... ..................................................... 30

Malaysian Aromatic Oil .. ... ..... ... .... .......... ....... ......... ............. 30

Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor

of Fresh Juice ...... ....................... .......................................... ... 31

Meyer Lemonade ................................... .. ............. ..... ....... ... .. 31

Melon Water .... : .. .................... .... ... ........................ .... ....... ...... 31

Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi ........ .. ...... .. . 32

Sous Vide Berry Ju ice ............................................................ 32

Strawberry Consomme .......... ........ .............. ...... ..... ............. . 32

Green Asparagus and Morels w ith Asparagus Ju s ............. 33

Strawberry Gazpacho ................................. .... .... ........ .... ....... 33

Best Bets for Jus .. .. ................................... .. .. .. ...... ............... ... 34

Jus de la Presse ....................................................................... 34

Root Vegetable Jus .. ......... ..... ..... ......... .. ... ...................... ........ 36 Sous Vide Vegetable Jus ...................................... ...... ............ 36 Clam Juice .................. .......................................... .......... ........ 36

Lamb GarlicJus in a j ar ....... .... .... ............ .... .. ...... .... ............. 37

Mushroom Jus ...... ...... ..... ... ............................. ............ ...... ..... 37

Sous Vide MusselJuice ......................................................... 37 Toasted O at Jus .. ... .. ....... ... ....... .. ...... .. ............ ....... ........ .... ... .. 38 Banyuls Glaze ...... ........ ..... ..... .. ...... ....... .. ...... .... .... ... ......... ..... 38

Tagine Base .............. ... ....... ...... ...... .. ........ .. ..... ....... .. ......... ..... 39 Squash Glaze ........ ............ .. ..... ... ..... ..... .......... .. ...... .............. .. 39

Sous Vide PrawnJus .... ... .... ...... ........... ..... ... ...... ................. .. . 39

Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus ................... ...... .. ........................ .. .. .40

Sous Vide Beef Juice .... ........................... .. ...... .. ....... ... .. ...... ... 40

Centrifuged Carotene Butter ......... .. .. .. ... .. .. .. .... .... .. .. ........ .. .40

Tomato Water ............ .. ... ... .......... ... ................. .... ...... .. .... ....... 40

Centri fuged PeaJuice ............................. .. .. ............ ... ........... 41

Centrifuged Roasted-H azelnut Oil .... .. .. .................... ...... .. . 41

Banana Yogurt ......... ...... .... ........ ... ................................ ......... 41

Best Bets for Consomme.. ....... .. ....... .. ..... .... .. .. .. ...... ........ ...... 42 Oyster Consomme.. .... ... ..... ...... ..... ... .. ....................... .... .... .... 42

Clar ifying a Consomme .. .......... .. ........................................ .. 43

Apple Cider Consomme ............................ ......... ..... .. .. .......... 43

Spring Garlic Consomme ....... .... .. .. ... ......... .... .......... .... ........ 44

Bagna Cauda Consomme .... ... .... ....... ....... .. ............ .... ...... .... .44

Pistachio Consomme .. ... ........... ........... ..... ..... ...... ................. 44

Pot-au-Feu Consomme ...... ... ........ ............. ....... ...... ... ... ...... .. 45

Oxtail Consomme .......... ...................... ............. .... .. .............. 46

Red Coleslaw ........ .... ....... ..................... ... ............................... 46

How to Distill with a Rotavap ...... ................ ..... .. ................. 47

Buddha's Hand Vodka .. ............... .............. ... .............. ....... .... 47

Vacuum- Concentrated Apple and Cabbage Juice .............. 47

Mock Turtle Soup ..... .................... ............. ..... ............. .... ...... 48

Indies Spice Blend ..... .... ...... .. ........ .. ... ............ ................. ...... 48

Quatre Epices ......... ...... ....................................... .. ....... ....... .. . 48

Chili Tomato Spice Blend .............. .... ........ .. .. .. ............ ......... 49

Page references of the form 4381 refer to volume 4, page 381. Selected component

recipes from the plated-dish recipes in volume 5 have been reprinted here. Each

appears in the chapter for which it is most relevant.

MOD ERNIST CUISI NE v

Memphis Rub ......................................................................... 49 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk ......... .. .. .. ............... 75

Kansas Rub .............................. ............................................... 49 Escolar with Red Wine Butter. .... .... ........... ... ..... .... .............. 75

Chaat Masala ...... .... ........ ................. .. ......... ....... ..................... 50 Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth ........... .... ... ... .......... 76

Sweet Spice Blend .................................................................. 50 Black Cod .. .. ............. .... .................. ... .... ................................. 76

Passion Fruit Granita ...... ....... ........... ...... .................... .......... 50 Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad .......... ........... .. .. 77

Fish Spice Mix .......... .... ........... .. ................................. .. .......... 51 Sous Vide Monkfish Pave ................................... .................. 77

Pain d 'Epices Powder ....................... .... ................................. 51 Sous Vide Snapper .. ... ... ....................... ........ .......................... 78

Citrus Spice .................................... .............. .. ........ .. .............. 52 Sous Vide Salmon ............................. ... ........................... .. ..... 78

Licorice Powder ................................. .. ................................ .. 52 Skate Pave with Bread Crust .................................. ... ...... .... . 78

Ras el Hanout .. .. .. .. ............ ....................... ..... ......... ... ........ ..... 52 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide .. .... .... .. 79

Exotic Spice Mixture .................... ... ...................... ................ 53 Sous Vide Mussels ......... .. ............... .................. ..................... 79

Pacojet Pea Soup .................. ... ............... .... ............................ 53 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry and Cocoa .. ..... . 80

Mozzarella Powder ............... ................. ...... ....................... ... 53 Shrimp Cocktail ..... .......... .... .................. ............................... 80

Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder ................ ......................... 53 Oyster Escabeche ............... .... ............ ... ................ .. ... .. ..... .... 81

How to Mill a Creamy Nut Butter ....................................... 54 Steamed Live Spot Prawn ............................ ....... .................. 81

Frozen Creme-Fraiche and Pine-Nut Cream ..................... 54 Poached Lobster Tail ........ .... ....... .. ....... ....... .. ....... ................ 81

Sour Rhubarb Sorbet.. .............................................. ............. 54 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry ...... ....... .................... 82

Romesco Sauce ....................... ............. .............................. ... . 54 Sous Vide Duck Confit Pave ........................ ...... .................. 82

Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees ............................ 55 Sous Vide Guinea Hen ........ .................................................. 83 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree .... .... .......... .. ...... .............. 56 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish .... .... .... .... ............... 83

Creamed Watercress ... .... .. ........................... .. ............ ............ 56 Sous Vide Braised Snails .......................... .......... ................... 83

Pistachio Puree .. ......... .... ............. ..... .. ...... .. ... ............. ... ..... .. . 57 Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style .................... ..... .... ........ ...... .. 84

Black Truffle Concentrate ...................... ...... ..................... ... 57 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki..84

Celery Root Mousseline ............................................ .. ......... 57 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte ..... ......... ..... .. ..... ........ ...... ....... 85

Best Bets for Freeze-Drying ................................................. 58 Sous Vide Octopus ............... ....... .. ......... ..... ... .. .... ...... ..... .. .... 85

How to Use a Spray Dryer ... .. ..... .. ........................................ 59 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts ....... .... .. ... .................. .... 86

Spray-Dried Buttermilk ... ................... .. ....... ........... ... ........... 59 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and Orange Sauce ..... 87 Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice ........... ............................... 59 Crispy Duck Tongues ........................................ ................. ... 87 Prefreezing Temperatures for Freeze-Dried Foods ........... 59 Beef Shank Rillette .... .................... .. ..... ..... ... .... .. .. ...... .... .. .... . 87

Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules .... .... ............................. 60 Sous Vide Pork Belly ...... ...... .................... .................. .... ....... 88 Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster ...................... .. ....................... 60 Braised Lamb Shoulder ......... .. ...... ........ .. .... ...... .................... 88

Ramen Vegetables ....... .... ....................................................... 61 Beef Brisket .............. ............... .. ..... .. ..... ........ ......................... 88

Ramen Stock Powder ............................................................ 61 Pork Ribs .............................................................................. .. 88

How to Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ........................... .. .... 62 Pulled Pork Shoulder .................... .. ........................ .. ...... .. .... 89

Strawberry Milk Shake ......................................................... 62 Braised Veal Foreshank ...................... ... ................................ 89 Orange Soda ...... .. .. ....... .. .... ............... .... .. ...... ........................ . 62 American Wagyu Beef Cheek ....... .................... .................... 89 Carbonated Golden Raisins ......................... .... .................... 63 Rare Flatiron Steak ........................................................ .. ..... 89 Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, Braised Short Ribs ................................................................. 90 and Miso Powder .................................................... ............... 63 Sous Vide Veal Tongue .................................................. .. .... . 90

Beef Short Ribs ..................................... .. ........ .............. ......... 90

CHAPTER 11: MEAT AND SEAFOOD 64 Glazed Oxtail ................. ........................... ... .......................... 90 Best Bets for Tartares ...................................................... ..... . 64 How to Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ..... 91

Hanger Steak Tartare ....................................... ..................... 65 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal Breast

Beef and Oyster Tartare ..................... ...... ........................ ..... 65 with Bulbous Vegetables ........ .. ............ ... ............... .. ............. 91

Scallop Tartare ........ ... ... ........... ........................................ .... .. 66 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas .. ................................................. 92

Salmon Tartare Cornets ..... ............ ...................................... 67 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and Ginger ................. 92

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide .............. ... 68 How to Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast ...... .... ....................... 93

Rack of Lamb ....... ......... ... ..... .. ... ........................... ... .............. 68 Ultra crisp Chicken Crown .... .............. ............ .. .... .... ........... 93

Pork Tenderloin withJuniper ...... ..... .. ........... ..... .................. 69 Pork Loin Roast ................... .................................................. 94

Venison Loin Rossini ........ ...................... .............................. 69 Puffed Cockscomb ................................................................ 94

Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini .... 70 Monkfish with Constructed Skin ........................................ 95

Sous Vide Rabbit Loin .......................................................... 70 Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows ...... ........................................... 95

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide ...... 71 Puffed Chicken Feet... ........... ... .. .............. ............ .... .... ......... 95

Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide .. 71 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide ................... 96

Poulet au Feu d 'Enfer.. .......................................................... 72 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide ..... 96

Pigeon with Shellfish Butter ......................... ...................... . 72 Sous Vide Foie Gras .......... .... .......................................... ...... 96

Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts ... 73 Ankimo Torchon ......................... ............ .. ......... ... ...... ...... ... . 97

Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide .................... ..... ........ 74 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake ........ 97

\/f'\IIIUC t. . 1{ IT f)..ll=N MANIIAI

.. .. ...

Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart ............. ... ..... .. .... ..... 98 Saucisson Sec ............... ... ............................ ................... .... .. 134

Sous Vide Pigeon Offal ........................ .. .............................. . 98 Fermented Shrimp Sheets ....................................... ........... 134

Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea Lettuce .... ........ 99 Fast-Cured Pepperoni ......................................................... 135

Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads ................................................. 99 Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage ...................................................... 136

Crispy Sweetbreads ...................... .. ........ .. ................ .. ......... 100 Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel ................................. ... .. . 136

Best Bets for Brines .. .............................. .. .. .. ............. .... ... ... 101 Low-Fat Chicken Sausage .......................... ................ ..... .... 136

Best Bets for Wet Cures .... .. ....................... .... ........... .... ...... 102 Rare Beef Sausage ....................... .... .. ............................... .... 137

Best Bets for Dry Rubs ......................... ........ ...................... . 102 Fried Chicken Sausage .............................. ............ ........ ...... 137

Best Bets for Brining .................... ... .... ................................ 103

Best Bets for Cur ing ...... ......... ........................ ........... .......... 103 CHAPTER 12: PLANT FOODS 138 Foie Gras Torchon .................... ....... ....................... ............. 104 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender. .... 138 Foie Gras Parfait .................... ... ....................... ......... .. .. ....... 104 SOllS Vide Baby Beet Salad ................................. .. .... .. ........ 138 Bacon Chip ............... .. ..................... ....... .............................. 10 4 SOllS Vide Glazed Pearl Onion ......................... ........ .... ...... 138

Shaved Foie Gras .................. .. ....... .. .................................... 105 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sariadaises ........... .. ......... 105 Until Tender .. .. ................................... ............ .... .................. 139

Confit Cure Mix ........................................... .... ................... 106 Sous Vide Turnip ..... ............. .. .. ......... ........................... .. ..... 139

Miso-Cured Black Cod .............. ... ........ ... ...... ... .................. 106 Glazed White Carrot ... ...... ................. ....................... .... ...... 139 GrapefrUit-Cured Salmon ................ ........................ ... ... ..... 107 Braised Turnips with Saffron ............. ..... ... ....... .. ...... .......... 140 House-Cured Bacon ........... ................. .......................... ... ... 107 Glazed Pearl Onion ... ......................... .. ... .. ................. ......... 140

Microwaved Beef J erky ..... ..... .. .. .......... .. ................... .. ....... . 108 Potato Salad ... ... ........... .............. ........ .......... ........................ 140 Crispy Beef Strands ...... .. ................................. .. .................. 108 Fresh Bean Salad .......... .................................... .... ...... .......... 141

Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad ................ ........... ......... ........ 108 Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion ............................ .... ...... 141

Juniper Brine ............................................... ... ..... ....... ..... ..... 109 Carrot and Dill Fricassee ............................ ..... ..... .. .... ... ..... 141

Sous Vide Duck Ham ............. ......... .. .... .............................. 109 Sous Vide Lentils .......... ..... .......... .. ........... ... ...... .......... .... ... . 142

Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache ............. ...... .. .. .... ... ........ 109 Sous Vide Green Asparagus ............... ...................... .......... 142 Fluke Cured in Kombu ................... ............. ...... ................. 110 Sous Vide Artichoke .. ...... .................... ........................... ... .. 142

Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham .................................. . 110 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Cured Beef Tenderloin "Bresaola Style" ............... ............ 111 Until Tender ..... ............... .................... ....................... .. ........ 143 Sea Urchin Bottarga ..... ................. .... .. .. ................ .. ............ 111 Chestnut Confit ..... .... ........................ .... .............................. 143 Salted Halibut ........................ ................. ................. .. .. ..... ... 112 Salsify Fondant ......................... ... .................... ............. .... ... 143

Halibut Brandade .......................... ......... .... ... ..... .. ............... 112 Sweet Potato Fondant .. .... .. ..................... .. ......... .... ............. 144

Seafood Paper .. ....... .. .............................. ............. ................ 113 Lobster Mushroom Confit .. ............................ .. ................. 144

Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and Thyme ....... 113 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vege tables Sous Vide

Kalbi Flank Steak .......................... .. .................................... 114 for Purees .. .. ... ............... ........ ..... ...................... .. ................ ... 144

Lutefisk ...... .... ....... .. .......................................... .................... 114 Salted Ca ramel Apple Puree .. ......... .. .............. .... .... .... ....... 145 Yakitori .............. ........................................... .. .. .. .................. 115 Tamarind Paste .......... .. .. ......... ............................................. 145

Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade ............. .. ..... .. ......... 116 Date Puree ............................ .. .. .... ............................. ...... ..... 145 Fluke Ceviche ...................................... .. ..................... .. ....... 117 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup

Chicken Tikka Masala ................... ............. .... ............. .... ... 118 Until Tender .... ..... ............ .................................................... 146

Gong Bao Chicken ..................... .. ........................................ 119 Pink Grapefruit Confit ........................ .. ............. ... ..... .. ... ... 146

BeetJuice-Fed Oysters ....... ................................ ................ 119 Best Bets for Warming Vegetables Sous Vide ................... 147

Best Bets for Smoking Meats ........ .................... .. ..... .. ......... 120 Red Wine Cabbage ............................. ................................. 147 Russian Smoked Salmon ............. .. ...................................... 121 Best Bets for Potato Purees ..................... .. ............... .... ...... 148

Beef Cheek Pastrami .................... ........ .. .. ..... .... .......... ........ 121 Potato Puree ........ ....... .. ............................ ...... .. .................... 148

Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown ... ...... ....................... ...... ....... 122 Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods .......... .. ....... 149

Smoked Pork Cheek ................... ........ ............................. .... 122 Baked Beans ........ ........... .................... ............................ .. .... 149

Heather-Smoked Sturgeon .. ....... .................... ......... ........ ... 122 Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans ............ .. ................. .. ... .... 149

Smoked Octopus ...... .. ................. ............... ...... ..... ... .. .......... 123 Caramelized Carrot Soup .... ........... ..... .......... ........ ............. 150

Best Bets for Burgers ........................................................... 123 Autoclaved Onion Soup ... ...... ... ................... .. ..................... 150

Best Bets for Coarse-Ground Sausages ............................. 124 Potato Puree ....... ................................. ................................. 151

Farce Royale ............ .. ........... .. ..... ......... ................................ 126 Crispy Boiled Peanuts ................................... .................. .. .. 151

Toulousain Garlic Sausage ................. ................................ 126 Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds .. ....................... .. ............. 151

Green Garlic and Pork Sausage ................. .. ....................... 127 Best Bets for Risotto .......... .... .. ...... ....... ............. ............ ..... 152

Best Bets for Emulsion-Style Sausages ............ ........... ....... 128 Steamed Sticky Rice .......................... .................................. 152

Italian Sausage .................................. .. ......... ...... .................. 130 Risotto Milanese ........ ....... .. .... .. .. ..... ....... .... ........................ 153

Frankfurter ......... ......... ... ............ ........ ..... .......... ................... 130 Paella Rice ............................................................................ 153

Boudin Blanc ............................ ..... ......... ....................... ....... 1 31 Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto ....................................... 154

Best Bets for Fermented Sausages ......... .... ........................ 132 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto ................................. 154

MODERNIST CUISINE vii

""~1Ymb ~-'----- db

a __

Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash ......... .. ................ .. 155 Green Papaya Pickle ...... .... ... ...... .. ...... .. ...... .............. ..... ...... 180

Ragout of Gra ins ...... ... ... .... ...... .................. ..... ... ........ .......... 156 Pickled Butternut Squash .............. ........... .......................... 180

Root Vegetable Risotto ..................... ............................. .. .. . 156 Crispy Dosa ............. .. ..... ..... ................ ...... .. .... ... ... .... ... ... ..... 181

Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables .............................. 157 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade ........ ....... .... .... ...... ...... .. .... 181

Microwave-Fried Parsley ......... ... ..... ... .............. .. ................ 157 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit ... ......... ..... .... ........... ...... 182

Tomato Powder ........ .... .............. .... .. ............ ...... ....... ........... 157 Best Bets for Preservation ............ ...... ...... ........ .... ............ .. 182

Artichoke and Potato Chaat.. ............................................. 158 Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit ...................... ..... ...... ....... 183

Sichuan Bok Choy ............................................................... 158 Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods ...... ................. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 183

Best Bets for Naked Frying ..................... .. ............ .. .. ......... 159 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune Sabayon .. ...................... 184

Toasted Garlic Chips ......... ......... ..... ... ........ .. ..... ....... ...... ..... l 59 Smoked Potato Confit ...................... .............. ..................... 184

Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts ....... .... .. ....... ... ..... ... ............... 1S9 Best Bets for Dehydration .... .. ...... .................. .. ............ ..... .. 18S

Pommes Pont-Neuf .............. ...... .... .... ..... .. ....... ....... ............ 160 Garlic Nougatine ............ ......... .... ..... ...... .... .... ........ ............. 185

Pectinase-Steeped Fries ..... .. .. .... ..... ... ... .. ...... .. .... ... .. ... .. ... .. . 160 Formulas for Dehydrating Produce ................. .. ................ 186

Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns ............................................... 160 Green Pea Wafer .......... .... ............ .... .................... ............ .... 186

Starch-Infused Fries .. ..... .......... ......... ... ....... ...... .. .... ........ .... 1 61 Crystallized Rose Petals ......................... .......... .. ................ 187

Ultrasonic Fries ....................... ....... .... ... .. ...... ......... ........... .. 161 Spinach Pap er .. ... .. ... ...... ............................ .. ...... ... ......... ..... .. 187

Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries ........................................ 161 Mandarin Leather ....... .... ..... .... ... .............. .. .. ....... ................ 18 7 Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips .. .. ............. 162 Pineapple Glass .. .. ...... .............. ............................................ 187 Watermelon Chips ...... ...... ........ ....... .... ................. ........... .... 162 Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods ......................... 188 Restructured Potato Chips ........ .. ................... .. .................. 162 Onion Sable .......... ............ .. ........................... ... .......... ........ .. 188 Bes t Bets for Batters .... ... ..... ..... .. .. .. .... .......... .. ........ ... ...... ... . 163 Seared Strawberry ... ... ....... .. .. ..... .... .. .. ................................. 189 Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura Caesar Sal ad ......................................................................... 189

with Smoked White Soy Sauce .... .... ....... ... ...... .. ............ .... . 164 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder .. .. .............. ... ... ... ..... .... .......... 189

Fried Pickles ................. ... .. ... .... .. ............... .. ... .... ...... .......... .. 164 Shrimp and Grits ...... .................... ...... .... .. ......... ..... ..... ........ 190

Crispy Halibut Cheek ............................................ .. ........... 165 Best Bets for Pasta Doughs ...... .... ...... .......... .. ... ..... .......... ... 191

The Colonel's Fried Chicken ......................... .. .................. 165 Herb -Embedded Pasta Veil ............. ........ .......... ...... .. ......... 191 Modernist Fried Chicken ....................... ... ..... .. .... ..... ...... ... 166 Spaghetti Carbonara .... ......................... ..... .... ... .... .... .......... 192 Oyster Beignet ..... ... ... ..... ... ....... .. ... ... .. .. .... .... ................. ..... . 166 Mac and Cheese ..... .. .............. .................. .. ................ .......... 19 2 Breading .................... ..... .............. ..... ..... .......... ..... ....... ........ 167 Pad Thai ................. .................. ..... ....................................... 193 Crispy Okra ................. ...... .. .. .. .. ............. ....... ...... ......... .. ... ... 167 Pasta Marinara .... ..... .. ...... .. ... ... .. .... ........ ...... ........................ 193 Cromesquis .......... .. : ..... ... ....... ... .. .. ...... .... ... .... .... .. ..... ..... ...... 168 Cocoa Tajarin ........................ ... ..... ..... ........ ........ ..... ............. 194 Fried Green Tomatoes ........ ... ........ .. ................ ... .. ... ....... .... 168 Ramen Noodles ............ .... .... ... .. .... ....................... ............... 194

Corn Croquetta ... ....... ... ... ... ..... ........ ...... ... ..... .... ........ ........ . 169 Buckwheat Dough ... ..... ..... .................... ............................. . 194

Pork Trotter Beignet ... .... ........ ..... .... ... ... .. .. ............ ... .......... 169 Semolina Pasta ...... .............. ..... ............ ............. ... ... ...... ....... 195

On ion Rings .. ... .. .... ...... ..... ... ... .. .. ... ........... .. ...... ....... ............ 170 Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce ..... 195

Razor Clam "Takoyaki " ...... ........... ......... ... ... .... ..... ............. 171 Smoked Lettuce .. ....... .. ........... .... .............. ............ ........ ... .... 195 Crispy Corn Pudding ..... ... ...... .. ....... ... .. ..... ...... .. ................. 172 Curry-Impregnated Apple ............. .... .... ..... .. ....... .. .... ..... .... 196

Salting, Pickling, and Fermenting ..................................... 173 Compressed Muscat Grapes ............................................... 196 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil.. ..... .. ....... ..... ...................... 173 Compressed Melon Terrine ..... .... ..... ... ....... ...... .... ... .......... . 196 Preserved Lemons .......................... ......... ... ... ...................... 174 Watermelon Meat ...................... ..... ...................... ...... .. ..... .. 197 Pickled Garlic ................... ...... .... .. ... ... ............. ......... ............ 174 Vegetable Coals ........... .................. ....................................... 197 Pickled Tapioca PearI.. ................................................... .. .. . 174 Pulled Mushroom ... ... .... ... .... .... .... ........ ............... ........ .. ...... 197 Kimchi ............................ ....... ....... ... .... ................ ....... .......... 175 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto ........ .. ............... ... .. .... .. ..... 198 Watermelon Rind Kimchi .............................................. ..... 175 Frozen White "Truffle" ....................................... .. ....... ...... 198

Nukazuke ... ............. ...... ........... ........ ............... .......... ............ 175 Clay Potatoes ......... ...... ......... ..... .. .. .. .... ...... ...... ..... .. ....... ... .. . 199 Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles ........... ...... .. ......... ..... .. .. ...... .. 176 Fossilized Salsify Branch ...... .. ........ .... ...... .. .... .. ............ ...... 199 Garlic Confit ........................................................................ 176

Aromatic Alsatian Mustard .......... .......... ...... .. ............ .... .... 176 CHAPTER 13: THICKENERS 200 Sauerkraut .......... ..... ....... .............. .. .... .. ....... ..... .................... 177 Best Bets for Thickening with Natural Starch .. .. ............ 200 Braised Sauerkraut .. ........ ............ ... .... .............. ....... ....... ..... 177 Pregelatinized Starch Paste ........ ...... ....................... .... ...... 200 Pickled Figs ..... .. ....... .................... ..................... ....... ... ......... 177 Best Bets for Thickening with Modified Starch .............. 201 Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables .......... ... ................... 178 Avocado Puree ................................ ...... ......................... .. .... 201 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes ................ .... ...... ....... .. ........ . 178 Modernis t Bechamel ...... ..... ................................................ 202 Pickled Ramps .................................................. ... .. ..... .. ... .... 178 Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding ............................................ 202 Pickled Lemon ..... ..... ........ ... ........ ..... .......... ....... ...... ... ... ..... . 179 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute ...................... .. ......... 203 Pickled Celery Root ...... ........ ...... ....... .. .... .. ................ .. ....... 179 Smoked Pepper Pure e ........ .... .... .. ............. .. ......... .. ............. 203 Tomato Con fit ..................................................................... 179 Caramelized Creme Fraiche ....... .......... .............. .. .... ..... .. ... 203

.Pickled Bing Cherry ....................... ....... ..... .................. ....... 180 Pomegranate and GarumJus ...... .......................... ... .. ..... ... 204

VO LU ME 6 . KITCHE N MANUAL

-... -_ ...

..

.. ..

I" ..

...ill

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~

~ ..,.. ~

~

~

~

~

~

~ ~

~

~ ~

~ ...,. ....... ~ -~

~

~ ... ,..-I ... ..-~ ~

~

~

~ ...... ,......,

TurkeyWing .... ... ................ ............. .... ..... ...................... .... . 204 Toasted Almond Milk ........ .... ....... .... ..... ........ .. ........ .. .. ....... 228 Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy ............................................. 204 Horchata (Chufa Milk) .............. .. ...... ..... ... .. ............. .......... 228

Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes ................ .. ............... 205 Lemon Strips .. .. .. ...... ............... ............................................. 228

Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta Dumpling .................. .. ....... .. . 205 Best Bets for Edible Films ................. .. ............................... 229

Marcona Almond Butter Paste .......................................... . 205 Crispy Cream Cheese ... ..... ............................................. ..... 229

Malt Vinegar Powder .................... ..................................... 206 Spiced Honey Glass ........ ..................... ... ............................. 230

Bacon Powder Squares ............................. ..... ............ ......... 206 Dried Cherry and H azelnut Nougatine ............................ 230

Parmesan Nuggets ............... ... .......... ............ .. ..... .. ............. 206 Edible Wrappers ............. .......... ... ........... .... .............. .. .. ....... 230

Spiced Ash .... ... ...... .......................................... ...... ............. . 206 Onion Arlette ................ ....... ........................ ...... .. ............. ... 231

Vanilla Olive Oil Powder ............... .. .................................. 207 BBQCaramels ......... ...... .. ............ ... ... .... ......... ........... .......... 231

Cashew Halvah ......... ................ .. ..... .. ....... .... ...................... 207

Almond Polenta ... .. ... .......................................................... 207 CHAPTER 14: GELS 232 Edible Earth ...... ....................................... .. .......... ................ 208 Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs ............ .. ....... .. ............. 232 Corn Pebbles ...... ............... .... .... ... ................. .. .. .................. 209 Liquid Center Duck Egg ..................................................... 232 Best Bets for Thickening Hot Liquids ............... .... ........... 210 Egg Blossom ...... ................................... ...... .... .... ....... ..... ...... 232 Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids ............................ . 211 Deviled Eggs ..... ... ............. .......... .... ... ..... ............................. 233 Ham Consomme with Melon Beads .. .. .............................. 211 Custard Textures ...... ................... .................................... .... 233 Tomato Whey Broth .. ..................... .............. .. ............ .... .... . 212 Best Bets fo r Pickled and Preserved Eggs ........................ 234 Truffle Jus ...................... .................... ...... ................ ..... ....... 212 Century Egg ............ ..... ..... ... ...... .......... ......... ................... ... 234

Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti ....................................... 212 Pickled Quail Eggs ...... ...................... ......... .. ....... .. ............. 234

Olive Oil Spread .................................................. .. .. .... ........ 213 Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels .. ......... ............ ...... .......... 235

White Grape Syrup .... ........................... ... ........ .................... 213 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise .. .. ...... .... ................................ 235 XO Sauce .................... ..................... ...... ... ........ ............. ... .... 213 Eggs Benedict .............................................. ...... ... ... .. .. ..... .... 236 Caramelized Coconut Cream ............................................. 214 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets ...................................................... 236

Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara ..... 214 Parmesan Creme Bnilee ..................................................... 237 Creamed Spinach ................................................ ............... .. 215 Sauce Allemande .... ............... ... .. ................. .. ...... ... ... .... .. .... 237

Warm Potato and Pistachio Pes to Salad .................. .. ....... 215 Egg Salad Sandwich ................................... .. ....... ........ ........ 238 Aged Rare Beef Jus ................................................. .. ... ........ 216 Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels ...................... .... .... ............ 239 Shiitake Marmalade ......................... ........... ............. ....... .... 216 Boudin Noir Custard ......... ............................... .. ...... ....... .... 239

Maple Vinegar Gastrique ..... ...... ... .............. ...... ..... .......... ... 216 French Scrambled Eggs ...................................................... 240 Mushroom Ketchup ............................................................ 217 Ham and Cheese Omelet.. .......... .. ...................... ............... 240

Apricot and Jasmine Puree ............ .. .......... ......................... 217 Asparagus Royale ...... ...... ............................... .... .... .. ......... .. 241

Seaweed Tapenade ............. .................. .. ............. ......... ........ 218 Dashimaki Tamago .... ......................................................... 241

Tamarind Puree ..... .. ... ..... .............. ........ ...... .. ...... .... ... ......... 218 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast ............................................... 241

South Carolina Barbecue Sauce .................. .. ................. .. .. 219 Chawanmushi .......... ....... ..... ........ ........... .... .. ...... ..... ....... ..... 242

Kentucky Barbecue Sauce ........................... .. ..................... 219 Boudin Noir Bread Pudding ............. .................................. 242

North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Chorizo French Toast ... ................... .... ......... ..... ............ ..... 243

Barbecue Sauce ....... ....... .......... ..... ............ .. ........ ................. 219 Olive Marmalade ..... .......... ...................................... ............ 243

House Barbecue Sauce ...... ... ......... .... .. .......... ......... ..... .... .... 220 Omelet Base ......................................................... ...... .... ...... 243

Kansas City Barbecue Sauce ................... ........... ..... .... ....... 220 Best Bets for Smoking Dairy and Eggs ........... .. ........ ........ 244

Memphis Barbecue Sauce ...... .......... ................................... 221 Smoked Egg Creme CarameL .......................................... 244

North Carolina (Eastern Region) Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar ................... ........ 244

Barbecue Sauce .................................. ........................... ....... 221 Best Bets for Protein Curds .......... .......... ......................... ... 245

East Texas Barbecue Sauce ................................................. 221 Cocoa Nib Curd .................................................................. 246

Mughal Curry Sauce ................ ......................... .. .... ... ..... ..... 222 Goat Cheese Dumplings ........... .. ........... .. .......................... 246

Pea Vine Salad ................ .................... .. ............. ................... 222 Silken Tofu .... .................... ...... ........... ... ........................ ...... 246

Muslim Curry Sauce .. ......... ................................................. 223 Fresh Cheese Curds .................... ..... ........................... .. ..... .. 247

Green Mango and Cashew Salad ....................................... 223 Modernist Burrata ................ ... ................... ... ..................... . 247

Goan Curry Sauce .............................................................. 224 Goat Milk Ricotta ........ ........... ................ .. .. .... ................ .... 248

Kerala Curry Sauce .... ...... ...................................... ............. 224 Firm Tofu ..... ............... .... ... ................. ... ........... .................. 248

Masala Curry Sauce ........... ................ .. ........... ... .. ................ 225 Mozzarella Balloons .... ............ ...... ... ...... .................. ....... ... 249

Red-Eye Gravy ................ .. .............................. .......... ........... 225 Green Pea yuba ................................................................... 249

Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams ............ .. ............ 226 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle Puree ........... 250

Low-Fat "Cream" .............. .. .. .......... ........ ......... ...... ....... ....... 226 Best Bets for Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) ... 252

Instant Creme Fraiche .. ..... ....... .. ...... ........................... ....... 227 Sour Cream Spaetzle .. ..... .......................................... .......... 252

Herbed Cheese Spread .......... ........... ........ ...... ..................... 227 Salmon Custard .................... .......................... ... ...... ............ 253

Soy Milk .......................................................... ... ........ .... .. 227 Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon Dashi .............. 254

Toasted Rice Milk ........ ....................... .... .................... ........ 228 Flourless Gnocchi ... ...................... ................. ... ....... ........ .... 254

MOD ERNIST CUISINE ix

..

r

Deep-Fried Custard ......... .. .. ...... .. ....... ..... ... ... ...... .............. .. 255 Confit Egg Yolk Puree ...... .. ................. ... .. .. ... .......... ............ 288

Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa ............... .... .. .. ................... 255 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel .. .. .... ............... .. ........... ... ....... 289

Corn Bread ....................... .... ... .... .... ............... ....... ......... ...... 256 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel ... ........ .... ............ ..................... ......... 289

Corn Custard ........................ .. ....... ...................................... 256 Best Bets for Spherification ....................................... ......... 290 Peanut "Tofu" ..... ...................................................... ............ 257 Carbonated Mojito Spheres .. ............ .............. .................. .. 291 Idiazabal Gnocchi .. ... .... ..... ................ .............. ............. .... .. . 258 Melon Caviar ........................................................................ 291 Everything Bagel Broth .......... ........ ............... ................... .. 258 "Poached" Egg ............... ........ .. ................................... ......... 292

Dill Spheres .......... ................... ............................................. 259 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil... ............ .... ........ ................ 292

Squid Ink Fluid Gel ......... .. ................................................. . 259 Gruyere Spheres ........ ....................................... .................... 293

Best Bets for Cold Gels ............................... .. .. .. ................. 260 Caper Droplets .................. ....... ............................................ 293 Salt Gel ... .............................................................................. 261 Mussels in MusselJuice Spheres .. .. .................................... 294

Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto ....................................... 262 Liquid Pimento Olive .... .. ... ...... ................ .... .................. ..... 294 Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot ........................................... 262 Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg" ........... .. ......................... 295 Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel ............................... ...... ........... 262

Cauliflower Panna Cotta ........... ........ ............ ..... ........... ..... 263 CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 296 Knot Foie ........................... .. ................................................ 264 Ultras table Beurre Blanc ........ ................. .... ..... .... .. ..... ....... 296 Madeira Gelee ..... ...... ..................... ............. ........................ 264 Poached Lobster ................ ... ........... ... .. ..... ...... .. .. ...... .......... 296 Chili Pearls ............................... ............................................ 265 Beet Flexicurd ........ ... .......... ................................. ............. .. . 296 Guinness "Pate de Fruit" .................................. .. ..... .. ........ . 265 Sea Urchin Butter ..... ........................................................... 297 Olive Oil Noodles ........... ............... ... .... ...... .. .. .................... 266 Oyster Butter Emulsion ...... .. ... ... ... .. .. ... .... ........... .. ......... ... . 297 Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame, Ponzu ..... ........... 266 Black Butter Emulsion ......................... .......... ........... ...... .... 297 Olive Oil GummyWorms .... .. ........... ... .................. ... ......... . 267 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter .. .... .... ...... .. .. 298 Sherry Gel Cube ............ ............... ... ................... ........ ......... 267 Blood Pudding Custard ........ ......... .... .... .. ........................... 298 Sunny-Side Up "Eggs" ........................................................ 268 Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses ........ ....... .. .......... .. ...... 299 Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels ........................................ 269 Constructed Veal Cream ................................................... 300 Foie Gras Parfait Spheres .................................................... 270 The American Cheese Slice .............................................. 300 Halibut Cheek Gel Base ...................................................... 270 Cheese in a Tube ........ ......................................................... 300 Foie Gras Cherries ........ ....... ............................... ........ ...... ... 270 Cheesy Whip ................ ....... ..... ... ...... ................................... 301 Crimini in Amber .............. ..... ... .... .. .................................... 271 Cheddar Soup ............. ......................................................... 301 Salmon Poached in Licorice .................... ............ .............. . 272 Remoulade Sauce .... .... .... ... .................... ................. .. ........... 302 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze .......... . 272 White Coleslaw ................... ........ .. .. ... .... ..... ...... ................... 302 Halibut in Verbena Bubble .......... .. ............. ........ ............ .. .. 273 Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce ......................................... ..... ...... . 303 Best Bets for Hot Gels .. ........ ......... .................... ...... ............ 274 Basic Mayonnaise ..... .... ...... ............ .......... ........................... 303 Agar Carbonara ...... ........... ......... ..... .. ... ...... .. ...... .............. ... 275 Hot Egg Mayonnaise ... .... ....... ....... ..... ........... .. .......... ......... . 303 Gruyere Custard ......... .............. .... ... .. .. ......... .. ....... ........ ...... 275 Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion ............................... 304 Shellfish Custard ...................... ........................................... 276 Sous Vide Lemon Curd ..................................... .. ............... 304 Bone Marrow Custard .................... ...... __ ....... ......... ......... ... 276 BaconJam .................... .. .......... .. ..... .. ...... .. ........ ... ........ ... ..... 304 Boeuf en Gelee ... .......... ........................................................ 277 Deep-Fried Hollandaise ...................... .... .. ............. ... ....... .. 305 Fruit and Vegetable Acidities ......... .. .... .................... .......... 278 Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise ........................................... 305 Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels .......... ............... ...................... 279 Black Olive Puree .............. ................ .. ....... ............... ..... ..... 306 Hot Orange Gel .............. .. ........ ....... ....... .. ..... .. ....... ........... .. 279 Thickened Oil ..... ............................ .. ........ .. ............... .......... 306 Hot Banana Gel ..................... ................................ ............ . 280 Invincible Vinaigrette ........................................ ... .. .......... .. 306 Hot Green Apple Gel... .... .. ...... ....... : .... .............. ....... .......... 280 Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage ........ .. .................. ......... 307 Hot Quince Gel.. ..... ............ ..... ... .. ..... ..................... ......... ... 280 Eggless Citrus Curd .... ..... ...... ...... ..... ... .. ... .......................... 307 Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito Stock Veil .. ...... ... .. ..... 281 Mustard Vinaigrette ............... ......... ... ..... .... .. ....... .. ... .. ........ 308 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade ................................. 281 Sauce VinJaune ....... .. ............ ...... .... .. ...... .................. .......... 308 Best Bets for Methylcellulose Gels ................................. ... 282 Eggless Mayonnaise .. .... ..... .................... .... ...... ..... .......... .... 309 Properties and Applications of Cellulose Gums .. ............ 282 Spice Mix Emulsion ......................................................... .... 309 Instant Tofu Noodles .. ... ............................ ........... ........ ...... 283 Olive Oil "Margarine" ...... ....................... ............. ............... 309 Potato Beignets with Caviar.. ...... .. ........... ....... ......... .......... 283 Pistachio Gelato ............... .......... ... .......... ............. ... ............ 310 Sweet Pea Clusters ........ ....... ... ...................................... ...... 284 Hazelnut "Cream" .......................................................... ... .. 310 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin .................................... 284 Jus Gras .............................................................. ................... 310 Best Bets for Fluid Gels ...................... .. .............................. 285 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup ..................... ................. ..... 311 Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel... .............. .. .... ........ 286 Ginger Cola .... .. ........... .. ..... .............................. .................... 311 Hot and Cold Tea ..................... ........................................ .... 286

Passion Fruit Jelly .... .......................... ............................. .. ... 287 CHAPTER 16: FOAMS 312 Popcorn Pudding ...................................... ..... .. .................... 287 Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths ...... .... .. ..... ..... ....... 312 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel .... ...... .. .. ...... .... ... .. .. ................. . 287 Citrus Air ........................ ..... ...... ..................... .. ......... ..... ... .. . 312 Parmesan "Polenta" ... .. ............... ..... ........ .. ...... .. .... ......... .. ... 288

Onion Fluid Gel .... ..... .......... .. ......................................... ..... 288 Oysters with Mignonette Air ............................................. 313 Parsley Foam ................... .... ........................... .... ... .. ... ......... . 313

vnlliM F 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL

...... ~

~

~

~

~

~

~

;;,

~

~

~

~

~

~

----' ~

~

~

~

~

---~

~

~

'" --' ""' -oJ ~

~

~

'"' --' """ --' ~ ~ .--"

~ .... --"'""" ..... ~ -..... ..... ~

~

~ ...... ~

'""\ .-

Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam ........ ... .......... ....... .... 313 Pommes Soufflees .............. ..... .................. ... .. ....... ... ... .... ... . 342 Geoduck with Seawater Foam ... .... ....... ... .... ........ ... ... .... ..... 314 Tapioca Starch Cracker .............. .... ... .... ... ................ ... ........ 343 Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles .. ......... .. .... .. .... ......... 314 Black Sesame Rice Crisps ... ..... .. .... ..... ...... ..... .. ...... ..... ..... ... 343 Saffron Honey Foam .. .......... .... .. ... ................. .................. ... 314 Rice Crisp ... .. .... .............. ... ......... ...... ........ .... ........ ....... ...... ... 343 Lychee and Lime Soda ........ ......... .... ............... ..... .. .. ... ... ..... 315 Puffed Chickpeas ....... .... ..... .. ....... ... ........ ..... .... .. .... .. ..... ..... 344 Tomato Vinegar Foam ................ .... ....... .............. .. ............. 315 Puffed Crab Cracker. ...... ....... ...... ........ .... ... .......... .. ......... ... 344 Cappuccino Foam ........... ........ ... .. ...... .. .. ....... .. ....... .............. 315 Cheese Puffs ..... ....... ............... .. ...... .. ...... ...... .... .... .............. . 344 Best Bets for Light Foams ...... .... .... ... ..... .. .... ..... ........ .......... 316 Soccarat Tuile .. ............ ..... ... ... .. ... .... .... .... ... ... .... ... .... ......... .. 345 Horchata Foam ............. ... .. .... ..... ... .. ....... ............. ... .... .... ..... 316 Candied Puffed Oats .... ... ...... ... .. ................... ..... .... .. ........... 345 Whipped Cheese .......................... ....... ...... ....... ..... ............... 317 Scallop Mochi ..................... .... ...... ... ....... ........ ....... .............. 345 Blood Orange Foam ... .......... ....... ....... ..... .. .. .. ... ........ ........... 317 Gremolata CriSp ... ... ..... ........... .... .......... ..... .... ..... ...... ......... 346 Milk Foam ...... ... ............ .. ...... ... .. .. ... ... ..... ..... .. ..... ..... ............ 317 Aerated Mango Sorbet ....................... .... ... .... .. ..... ... ... ...... .. . 347 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth ......... ... ............. .. ... ......... 318 Edible Prune Coals .... ..... .. ........ .................... .. ........... ... .. ... .. 347 Corn Foam ...... ........... .......... .... ...... ... ... ........ .... ........ ... .. ... ... . 318 Aerated Foie Gras ............................. ....... .. ...... .. ................. 348 Blood Orange Sabayon .... ....... .. .. .......... .... ... ........ ...... .... ...... 318 Aerated Gruyere ... .. ... .. ...... .. ......... ......... ........ ..... ... ..... ... ..... 348 Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon .... ... .... ... ... .... ..... .. 319 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream ..... ... .... .... ... ... .. ... ... ... .... ... ... ....... 349 Coconut-Lobster Emulsion ...... .... ... ..... ... .......... ... ..... .. ... .. .. 319 Aerated Chocolate .... ... ............. ............ ..... .... .... .. ................ 349 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino .. ............... .... ........... ... 320

Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam ................. .. ..... .... .... . 320 CHAPTER 18: COFFEE 350 Grapefruit and Black Pepper ... .. .... .. ..................... ...... ........ 321 Coffee Butter .... ............. .... ... ..... .. .. .... .. ... ... ........ ............... ... . 350 Best Bets for Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ... ...... .... .. ........ 322 Stable Latte Foam ..... ......... ...... ......... .. ..... .... .... ............ ........ 350 Chocolate Chantilly ..... ... ....... ........ ...... ..... ..... .. ......... ..... ..... 322 Instant Swiss Meringue ............ .......... ... ...... ..... ....... .... .... ... 323 REFERENCE TABLES 352 Eggplant Foam ..... .. ............ ....... .... .......... ..... ... .. ................... 324 Converting Temperature ... ... ......................... ....... ......... .. ... 352 Baked Potato Foam ..................... ... ........ .. ... ... ..... .. ........ ...... 324 Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients .. . 354 Hot Butter Foam ..... .............. ................... ......... .... ........ ....... 324 Converting Weights ..... ... ..... ......... .. ............................... ..... 354 Coconut Chutney Foam ....... ...... .. ..... ..... ... ... ...... ................. 325 Common Conversion Factors ........ .................. ...... ... ... ... ... 356 Suet Mousseline (Thick) .... .... .......... ........ ... ......... ...... ........ 325 Converting Volume Measures .............. ....... ............ ........... 357 Dairy-Free Whipped Cream .................. .. ...... ... ... ... ....... ..... 326 Water Content of Typical Foods ......... .. ........ .. ..... .... .... .. .. .. 358 Cauliflower Foam .............................. .. ........... .. ...... ... ......... . 326 Fat Content of Typical Foods ...... ......... .. ... ... .. ...... .......... ... . 361 Fried Egg Foam ............. ....... ... ..... ..... ... ... ... ......... ... .. .. ...... .... 326 Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods .... 362 Horseradish Foam ....... ....... ......... ... ... .... ..... ...... ... .... .. ..... ..... 327

Oysters with Cava Foam ..... .............. ..... ... ....... ...... ........... .. 327

Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel... ..... ......... ............ 327

Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca ......... .... ..... ......... ..... 328

Chestnut Cream .................. .................. ... ............. ... .... .... .... 328

Whipped Butter ................. ....... ....... ..... ............. ....... ........... 329

Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips ..... .......... ...... .. ........ 329

Best Bets for Set Foams ..... .. .. ... ...................... ... ... ... ..... ...... . 330

Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo Powder. ...... ... 332

Cryopoached Green Tea Sour .... .... .......................... ..... ..... 332

Whipped Yogurt Crisps .................... ..... .. .. .. ...... ........ ......... 333

Green Tea Cake ... ...... .......... .. .... .............. .... .. ...... .. ........ .... .. 333

Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake ..... .. .......... ... ..... ........ 333

Hot Apricot Marshmallow ... .. ...... .... ..... ...... ....... ....... ... .. ... . 334

Hamburger Bun ....... ... ....... ........... ........ ... .... ...... ..... ...... ...... . 334

Beet Meringue ... ......... ........ ...... .... ......... ..... .. ............... .. .. .... 335

Steamed Blancmange ...... .. ................ ... .... .. .... ...... .. ..... ........ 335

Chestnut Puffs .... .. .................... ... ... ..... ......... .. .............. ..... .. 336

Buttermilk Biscuits ..... ...... .. .. .......... .. ..... .. .. ... ... .. .. ........ .... ... 336

Rye Bread .. .. ............... ...... ... .... .... ........ ......... .. ... ..... ... ... .... ..... 337

Moroccan Batbout Flatbread ...... ...... .... .. ............ .. ............. 338

Siphoned Souffle it la Lorraine .. ...... ..... .. ............... .... ... ..... . 338 Green Olive Meringue ........ ... ............ ........ .... .... ........... .. .. .. 339

Soy Sauce Cloud ..... .. ....... ... .... ... ....... ....... ... ..... .................... 339

Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam .... .. .... ...... ...... ... ....................... 340

Gruyere Souffle ..... ... .... ... ...... ...... ...... .............. ........ ..... ...... 340

Zucchini Blossom Beignets ..... .... .. .. ...... ........ ....... .............. 341

Pate it Choux ... .......... .............. ..... ................. ...... ..... ....... ..... 341 Best Bets for Puffed Snacks ...... ...... .. .... .. ......... .. ..... .. .. ... ..... 342

MODERNIST CUIS I NE xi

.II

CURRY-IMPREGNATED APPLE Yields1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Applejuice 1 kg see page 2338

Turmeric, freshly grated 20g

Black peppercorns (whole) 3g

Coriander seeds 2g

Cinnamon stick, toasted 1.5 g

Cardamom 1 g

Cloves (whole) 1 g

Star anise, toasted 19

Saffron threads 0.2g

Apples, peeled and cored 900 g

from page 3393

100%

2%

0.3%

0.2%

0.15%

0.1 %

0.1%

0.1%

0.02%

90%

CD Vacuum sea l juice and spices. o Refrigerate for 12 h to infuse. Place apples in bow l, and cover wi th infused juice.

@) Place bowl in chamber sealer, and pull moderate vacuum. Release vacuum when liquid begins to boil, and then run vacuum cycle twice more to boil a total of three times.

Hold under vacuum for15 min. After last cycle, turn machine off, and leave machine sealed. When apples have fu lly absorbed liquid, release vacuum, an d remove food.

COMPRESSED MUSCAT GRAPES Yields100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY

Muscat grapes 100g

Grape juice, clarified 100 g

Verjuice (store-bought) 60g

Fructose 12 g

Malicacid l.3 g

Salt to taste

from page 5110

SCALING

100%

100%

60%

12%

1.3%

PROCEDURE

CD Blanch in boi ling water for 20 - 45 s, depending on ripeness. Riper grapes wi ll require shorter time.

o Shock in ice-water bath, peel, and reserve. Combine.

@) Taste for seasoning balance.

Vacuum seal w ith peeled grapes to co mpress. @) Refrigerate for no more than 3- 4 h before serving or grapes wi ll become too soft.

COMPRESSED MELON TERRINE Yields675g ADAPTED FROM H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AK I KAMOZAWA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY

For the calcium lactate solution:

Cold water

Calcium lactate

500g

2.5g

Honeydew melon, 375 g cut into five planks, each 1 cm I % in thick, 5 cm by10 cm / 2 in by4 in

Cantaloupe, cut into four 300 g planks, each 1 cm I % in thick,S cm by10 cm / 2 in by4in

For the pectin so lution:

Cold water 500 g

LM pectin 15 g (Genupectin lM 104 AS, CP Kelco brand)

from page 3392

196

SCALING PROCEDURE

167%

0. 8% (0.5%)*

125%

100%

167%

5% (3%)*

CD Disperse calcium lactate gluconate in water, and stir until fully dissolved.

o Vacuum seal planks in one even layer w ith ca lcium solut ion. Refrigerate fo r 20 min.

@) Remove from bag, and pat dry.

Mix pectin in water, and blend until fully dispersed. @) Bring solution to boil while shearing for1 min to fully hydrate.

o Cool. Brush one ca lcium-infused cantaloupe plank w ith cooled pectin solution,

and lay ca lcium-infused honeydew plank on top.

Repeat brushing and layering process w ith remain ing six planks. @ Vacuum seal each stack to compress.

@ Refrigerate until bonded, about 12 h.

@ Cut terrines into slices, and serve.

*(% of total weight of water used in the individual solution)

VOLUME 6 . KITCH EN MANU AL

---'--,..-'----'----'---------"...-

c:-

C-,.-'---'--,.-'--,.-"--"--"---'"--'--.-L ,.-\-. ,.-L

C--'---...... C--'---'--..... -..... --'---'-c------t:"""

t:.-

----

-.... --.... -

WATERMELON MEAT INSPIRED BY ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ INGREDIENT

Watermelon, pee led and white rind discarded

Water

Salt

from page 3394

QUANTITY

500g

100 g

5g

CD Cut into 2.5 cm / 1 in "steaks." Cut from surface, seedless part only, rese rving all remaining watermelon fl esh for anothe r use. Leave sma ll lip of white rind to mimic fat cap of steak, if desired.

o Whisk together water and sa lt to make brine. o Vacuum seal watermelon steaks with brine, and refrigerate for 2 h. o Drain brined watermelon, and pat dry. Dehydrate slices at55 'c / 130 ' F until dry and leather- like, 8-12 h. Brush slices with water, vacuum seal, and refri gerate. This will moisten

them just enough to keep them tender.

o Serve as fun replacement for meat. See the plated-dish recipe for Watermelon Bulgogi on page 5285.

VEGETABLE COALS ADAPTED FROM MUGARITZ INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

SCALING

100%

20%

1%

Cassava roots, peeled 675g 100% CD Cut into 4.5 cm / 1:y., in cub es. White fish stock see page 12

Squid ink

Salt

from page 3395

350g

15 g

to taste

52%

2.2%

o Combine stock and ink. o Mix with cassava cubes. o Simmer together un ti l tender, 35- 40 min. Drain ink-stained cubes. Season.

Yields250 g

PULLED MUSHROOM INSPIRED BY H. ALEXANDER TALBOT AND AKI KAMOZAWA INGREDIENT

KingTrumpet mushrooms, sliced in half lengthwise

Neutral oil

Barbecue sauce see page220

from page 3396

QUANTITY

250g

50g

to taste

SCALING PROCEDURE

100% CD Vacuum seal o il with mushrooms. o Cook sous vide in 90 ' C / 194 ' F bath for 4 h.

20% o Drain o n tray lined with paper towels. o Pull mushrooms apart in to individual fibers. Mix in, and serve.

PLANT FOODS

Yields250 g

Yields200 g

197

.... ~ {

~ -~ .9 _ :..-9.,..

SQUID-INK BEAN-SPROUT RISOTTO ADAPTED FROM FERRAN ADRIA

INGREDIENT QUANTITY

Bean sprouts 250g

Squid stock (or water) 50g see page 6

Squid ink 2.5g

Squid stock (or water) 50g

Agar(Texturas brand) 0.3 g

Eggyolks 30g

Garlic, mashed 8g

SCALING

100%

20%

1%

20%

0.12%

12%

3.2%

PROCEDURE

CD Cut off ends. (3) Cut into 1 cm / 'Is in sticks to resemble rice, and reserve .

Blend stock and ink, and reserve, refrigerated .

o Disperse agar in stock, and bring to boi l. Simmerfor2 min, and remove from heat. Cast evenly into nonstick mo ld in layer1 cm / 'Is in thick. (2) Refrigerate until se t, about 10 min.

Cut squid jelly into cubes, and reserve. Blend.

Yields 700 g (eight portio ns)

Extra-virgin o live oi l 150g 60% @ Drizzle slowly into yo lks, wh ile blending, until emu lsified and mayonnaise forms .

Salt to taste

Squid legs 75g

Neutral oil asneeded

Salt as needed

Squ id ink stock, from 50 g above

30%

20%

@ Season and reserve.

@ Saute legs for 20 s on each side unt il just cooked through.

@ Season, re move from pan, and rese rve.

@ Saute bean sprouts.

@ Add squid ink stock to sauteed sprouts. Neutral oil

Lemon herb oi l

as needed @ Simmer togethe r until risotto is just cooked through and sti ll crunchy, about 2 min.

@) Portion risotto into four bowls. see page 27

@ Garnish with squid je lly, garlic mayonnaise, squid legs, and pa rsley o il.

from page 3397

FROZEN WHITE "TRUFFLE" ADAPTED FROM QUIQUE DACOSTA 'CD Dispe rse gelatin in co ld soy milk, and then stir over med ium heat unti l d isso lved

and fu ll y hydrated.

(3) Blend in cheese unti l me lted and fu lly incorporated into the mixtu re.

Strain and chil l. o Add wh ite truffl e oil, salt, and pepper, and then place in 1 I wh ipp ing siphon.

Charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide.

Melt mannito l in small saucepan, and bring to 200 c / 390 OF. Add colored powders, and then hold at 180 C / 355 oF.

Dispense foam onto offset spatula in des ired shapes. Insert bamboo skewer into each "truffle."

(2) Dip in liquid nitrogen. After dipping, baste with nitroge n to ensure even freez ing.

Swirl frozen truffle in warm mannitol to coat evenly and soften rough edges . Refreeze in nitrogen. A brief dip will set mann itol she ll.

@ Thaw in refrigerator for 1 h. Parm esan cream will soften as it warms.

@ Garn ish with porcini powder.

INGREDIENT

160 Bloom gelatin

Soy milk

Aged Parmesan cheese, grated

White truffle oi l

Black pepper, fine ly ground

Salt

Mannitol

Gold powder

Bronze powder

Dried porcini powder

from page 3-400

\l1"'l 11 1~~~ f... I(ITrl-l~N MANilA!

QUANTITY

6g

500g

300g

12g

0.5g

6g

800g

2g

0.2g

60g

Yields 900 g

SCALING

2%

166%

100%

4%

0.17%

2%

267%

0.7%

0.07%

20%

..... .... .... ""-'"-,.-\".

.... C C ,... '-,... '-

e: e: .-.... '-,... '-,... '-,-'-

.....

.....

.... '-I,..

.... \..

.....

.....

.....

\0.

.....

.....

..... ,-..... -..... c -.... ---~ -'!:

'!:

I'::

~

~

----

'"" -

-----

CLAY POTATOES ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADUR IZ Yields200g INGREDIENT QUANTITY

Water 3 kg

Salt 24g

Whole baby Yukon Gold 200g potatoes, skins on

Water 40g

Kaolin clay 30g

Lactose 20g

Carbon black powder 1.5 g

Garl ic confit 100g see page176

Egg yolks 40g

Extra-virgin olive oil 2s0g

Salt to taste

from page 3398

SCALING

1,500%

12%

100%

20%

15%

10%

O.7S%

50%

20%

125%

PROCEDURE

@ Combine in pot.

(3) Simmer in sa lted water for 20 min, until cooked but still firm.

Strain. o Place on bamboo skewers, and reserve warm. Combine.

o Dip warm skewered potatoes into clay mixture to coat. o Place two cooling racks in deep hote l pan, one on bottom and one on top. Thread skewers to stand upright in racks. @) Dry in 45 C / lls OF oven forls min.

@ Transferpotatoes from skewers to serving plates.

@ Blend .

@ Blend into ga rli c and yolk mixture unti l emulsified and aioli forms.

@ Season a io li, and serve with warm potatoes.

FOSSILIZED SALSIFY BRANCH ADAPTED FROM ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Yields 350 g (four portions)

INGREDIENT QUANTITY

Water sOOg

Calcium hydroxide 4.sg

Salsify root, scrubbed 400g and peeled (four medium

roots)

Salted cod roe or pollock 100 g roe

Extra-virgin olive oil

Sea beans (Salicornia)

Extra-virgin olive oil

from page 3399

16g

40g

109

SCALING PROCEDURE

125% @ Whisk ca lcium hydroxide into water to make brine.

1.13% (0.9%)*

100% (3) Soak in brine at room temperature for 3 h; stir every 30 min to e nsure that calcium hydrox ide is distributed even ly.

Remove from brine, and rinse. o Bake in 170 C / 340 OF oven for45 min, and reserve warm.

25% Whisk and reserve.

4%

10% o Toss. 2.5% 0 Place salsify root in center of each warmed plate.

Garnish evenly with fish roe and sea beans. *(% of weight of water used for brine)

PLANT FOODS 199

-

TRADITIONAL STARCH THICKENERS

CD Disperse by mixing the starch with whatever liqu id you want to thicken until a slurry forms.

o Heat to at least 80 C / 176 OF to hydrate. Use a water bath if availab le; if heating on a stove top, stir the mixture constantly. The starch solution wi ll change from m il ky to clear when it is fu ll y hydrated.

Best Bets forThickeningwith Natural Starch Starch Texture Translucency Flavor

arrowroot creamy clear neutral

corn creamy opaq ue strong

kudzu gelati nous clear neutral

potato sticky clear subtle

rice sticky opaque subtle

tapioca sticky clear neutral

waxy corn creamy opaque subtle

wheat creamy opaque strong

from page 428

PREGELATINIZED STARCH PASTE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING

Water sOg 12.5%

Tapioca starch sOg 12.5%

Water, hot 400g 100%

from page 429

200

Application (scaling) ' Heat-sensitive Stable when thawed

broths

jus, gravies

broths

veloute, cream sauce

gravies

puddings

set gels

broths

glazes

de nse puddings, tofu

broths

jus, gravies

sti r-fry sauces

glazes

soups

pudd ings, purees

broths

jus, gravies

fruit fi ll ings

broths

low-fat salad dressings

gravies

veloute, cream sauce

gravies

bechamel

1%

2%

1.50%

2 .0 %-2.5%

3%-4%

5.0%- 6 .5%

9 %

2%

5%-7%

12%

1%

2%

2.5%

3.0%-3.5%

4%-5%

7%- 8%

1.5%-2.0%

2.5%-3.0%

4%-5%

1%

2.50%

4%

2.5%

3.0%-3.5%

4%-5%

no unstable

yes unstable

no unstable

yes unstable

yes unstable

somewhat stab le

no stable

yes stable

'(set weight of liquid to be thickened to 700%)

PROCEDURE

CD Wh isk starch into water until fully d ispersed. (3) Vacuum seal mixture .

Cook sous vide in 80 c / 176 OF bath for 2 h. @ Blend in hot water until ful ly incorporated whi le the paste is still warm.

Strain, cool, and store vacuum-sealed at room te mperature.

VO LUME 6 . KITCHEN MANUAL

YieldssOO g

---'-----'----~ -~ -"----~ .-10.....

L ,-.-10.....

C-c:-C-,..-'--,..-\0-. ,..-~ --10..... ,..-"'--,..-10..... -10..... -"'--'---'"--'"-C-~ ,.-\... -\... -"'--"'-.. -"'--.... -\.... ,...-"-,...-"-

C"" -'-c-t:"""

~

~

~

~

~

~

t-.

-.....

-.--..--..-'""' -" '"" --

-~

---'""' -- '

---

MODERN STARCH THICKENERS

CD Select a thickening agent from the table below. Note that starches marked as unstable below may break down upon heating or upon thawing from a frozen state.

Whisk the starch into the liquid to be thickened by hand. Do not use a blender, which can make the mixture gluey or stringy.

Heat to hydrate if necessary. Bring Pure Cote B790 and Wondra to a simm erto hydrate fu ll y; heat Novation PRIMA 600 to 75 C/ 167 OF.

Best Bets forThickeningwith Modified Starch

Scaling Stable when See Product Brand Source range* Translucency Texture Heated Thawed Example use (scaling)' page

N-ZorbitM National tap ioca 20%- nearly swe lled unstable unstable oi l powders 30%-40% 207

Starch 100% opaque granules oil pastes 85%-100% 206

bulking gels, 5%-20% 242

sauces

Ultra-Sperse 3 National tapioca 0.2%-8% nearly to fully smooth stab le stable meat gravies, jus 3%- 4% 204

Starch opaque puddings 6%-8%

Flojel60 National corn 1%-10% opaque smooth, stab le unstab le cream sauce 4%

Starch stringy puddings 7%

Novation National corn 1%-7% opaque smooth stable stable broths 2.0%-2.5%

Prima 600 Starch purees 4%

Ultra-Tex 8 National tapioca 1%-10% nearly creamy stab le unstable cream sauce 3.0%-3.5%

Starch opaque meat gravies, jus 4%

purees 6%

puddings 8%

Pure-Cote GPC corn 0.5%- clear smooth stab le unstab le films 12% 229

B790 20% thickened juices 15%

Maltrin GPC corn 1%-30% clear smooth stab le stab le thin sauces 10%

purees 20%

Wondra General barl ey malt, 1%-15% opaque smooth stab le unstable gravies, veloute 6%-7%

Mills wheat bechamel 8%-9%

from page 446 '(set weight of liquid to be thickened to 700%)

AVOCADO PUREEADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Hass avocado, peeled 140g 100% CD Puree until smooth. Ultra-Sperse 5 5g 3.6% Transfer to squeeze bottle. (National Starch brand) Pipe dots of avocado puree onto plates. Char lightly with blowtorch. Ascorbic acid l.4 g 1%

Lime juice 1.4 g 1%

Salt to taste

from page 5207

THICKENERS 201

:"If'~ II" .... .....-y-- ... .. - ..... ,

MODERNIST BECHAMEL Yields 215 g INSP I RED BY AKI KAMOZAWA AND H . A LEX AN DER TA LBOT

INGREDIENT

All-purpose bleached flour

Unsalted butter, melted

Whole milk, warmed to 45 'c / 113 'F Pressure-cooked roux, from a bove

Ultra-Sperse 3 (National Starch brand)

Lambda carrageenan (Texturas brand)

Nutmeg, freshly grated

Salt

from page 431

QUANTITY

250g

250g

200g

15 g

7g

0.2g

to taste

to taste

SCALING PROCEDURE

125% @ Combine, and divide mixtu re among three 500 ml / l pt mason jars.

125% (3) Seal jars, and place them upright in pressure cooker.

fill pressure cooker with water to middle of jars .

100%

7.5%

3.5%

0 .1%

@) Pressure-cook fat at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi fo r 2 h.

Cool resu lting roux at room temperature; measure 15 g for recipe, and refrigerate remainder for late r use.

@ Wh isktogetherwith rese rved roux unti l smooth to form bechamel.

o Warm bechamel to desired temperature.

Season.

Th e bechame l can a lso be made by using 1.25% (2.5 g) lam bda carrageenan rather than the amount indicated above a nd substituting 1% (2 g) pregelati -nized sta rch paste for the Ultra-Sperse 3. for more de tai ls, see page 200.

If pressure-cooked in a ca nningjar, the roux can be stored without refrig-eration . It has effective ly been canned (see page 288). Once opened, it must be refrigerated.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PUDDING

INGREDIENT

Je rusa le m arti chokes, thin ly sliced

Neutra l oi l

Whole mi lk

Jerusalem artichoke puree, from above

Ultra-Sperse 3 (National Starch brand)

Xanthangum

La mbda carrageenan (Texturas brand)

Jerusa lem artichokes, th inly sliced

Grapeseed oi l

Roasted-hazelnut oil

Roasted haze lnuts, quartered

Pickled Jerusalem artichoke, fin e julienne see page 178

Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

f laky sa lt

from page 431

QUANTITY

200 g

20g

400g

100g

3g

0.2g

O.lg

25g

as needed

8g

10 9

6g

5g

to taste

SCALING

200%

20%

400%

100%

3%

0.2%

0.1 %

25%

8%

10%

6%

5%

Yields 160 g (four portions)

PROCEDURE

@ Combine in nonstick pan.

(3) Cook artichoke slices over medium heat until go lden brown and ve ry tender, abou t 20 min.

Puree mi lk with cooked ar