Adapted from WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (10-Speed Press, 2005)

© Copyright 2012. All rights reserved by Elizabeth Andoh

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西京焼き Saikyō Yaki

Miso-Marinated Broiled Fish

Before modern refrigeration was available, miso-marinating fresh foods – fish, vegetables, tōfu – was a way to extend the shelf life of highly perishable foods. No doubt, the flavor-enhancing power of miso also contributed to the popularity of this method. For those who do not have easy access to fresh fish on a daily basis, you may want to purchase “extra” fish when you can. That way you can put aside a second fish menu to enjoy several days later. Miso-marinated fish intensifies with time; usually 2 or 3 days in the refrigerator is best though 4 or 5 days is fine, too. Fresh salmon, Spanish mackerel (sawara) featured in this recipe and pictured below, and black cod (gindara) are especially delicious prepared this way.

In restaurants and homes where miso-marinated fish appears on the menu frequently, the fish is wrapped in cloth before burying it in a tub of miso that has been thinned a bit with saké. Sarashi, a fine-woven muslin cloth, is what most Japanese cooks use to wrap fish. Several layers of cheesecloth or surgical gauze can be substituted.

Adapted from WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (10-Speed Press, 2005)

© Copyright 2012. All rights reserved by Elizabeth Andoh

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Some chefs add seasonings to the miso marinade to provide hints of flavor. Adding yuzu, lemon or orange zest will make any oily fish, such as mackerel or black cod, more delicate in flavor; adding ginger juice will make the fish less “fishy” in flavor and add a slight spicy kick. I do not recommend garlic or onions; they tend to dominate and go bitter quickly.

Follow the guidelines below if you wish to re-use the marinade several times within a month. The cloth can also be rinsed in warm water and re-used.

POUR OFF or BLOT UP excess moisture from the marinade; do this BEFORE removing the fish to broil it.

DO NOT lick, taste or sample the marinade once food has been marinated in it. LABEL the marinade with the date and what it was used for (example: 2012

March 23, sawara… April 2, salmon etc.) Be sure to indicate if any seasoning was added.

Makes 4 portions. 4 pieces fresh fish fillets, preferably with skin still attached 1 teaspoon coarse salt; optional Basic Marinade:

2 cups Saikyo shiro miso (light – colored bean paste; a 500 gram-pkg) 3 tablespoons sake (rice wine)

Optional seasonings: 1 tablespoon yuzu (Japanese citron), lemon or orange zest OR 1 tablespoon ginger juice extracted by squeezing grated fresh ginger

Garnishes: Grated daikon radish, lemon or lime wedges, shoots of fresh pickled ginger Rinse the fish fillets under cold water and pat them dry before placing them on fresh paper toweling. If you wish to speed the development of a deep fermented flavor, or if you are using an oily fish such as mackerel or black cod, it is best to “sweat” the fish before marinating it. Salt the fish on both sides then let it stand for 5 minutes until it “sweats.” Blot away excess moisture with paper towels. Combine basic marinade ingredients in a non – reactive container (glass, ceramic, or Teflon-coated metal). Depending upon the size of your container, you will need to marinate the fish in one layer (using a wide, shallow container) or two (using a deep, narrow container). With a flexible spatula or the back of a large spoon, push aside half of the paste if making a single layer, 2/3 of the paste if making 2 layers. Lay a double thickness of cheesecloth or surgical gauze over the marinade. Arrange the cloth so that half covers the marinade (press it lightly in place) with enough extra material to enclose the fish. Lay pieces of the fish on the marinade-moistened cloth.

Adapted from WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (10-Speed Press, 2005)

© Copyright 2012. All rights reserved by Elizabeth Andoh

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Fold the extra cloth or gauze over the slices of fish to enclose them. Spread the remaining marinade over the cloth. (Repeat, if making 2 layers of fish in the same container.) Place a sheet of clear plastic wrap over the marinating “sandwich” of sliced fish, pressing lightly to insure even distribution of the miso marinade. Allow fish to marinate at cool room temperature (no warmer than 75 degrees F, 23 C) for at least 6 hours, or refrigerate for 2 to 3 days. The fish will turn a golden, translucent color and become a bit slippery and sticky to the touch. The longer the fish marinates, the firmer, and more intensely salty-sweet the fish becomes. When ready to cook, pre-heat broiler to high, then re-adjust heat to a low setting (the marinade scorches easily). If cooking on an outdoor grill, wait until embers are gently glowing before cooking. Remove the fish from the marinade and place the slices on a disposable foil tray or a rack, skin side to the source of the heat.

Broil for 3 to 4 minutes until the skin is bubbly and colored, then flip. Broil for another 2 to 3 minutes.