Minuszero GO EAST in Siberia

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    GO EASTtefana MrmureanuMaxim Trikhanov

    ROMANIAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE

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    Autori: tefana Mrmureanu, Maxim TrikhanovArtwork: Drago TudorTraducere n limba rus: Maxim Trikhanov

    Traducere n limba englez: Samuel W. Onn

    Authors: tefana Mrmureanu, Maxim TrikhanovArtwork: Drago TudorRussian version: Maxim TrikhanovEnglish version: Samuel W. Onn

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    ROMANIAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE38 Aleea AlexandruBucharest -1, Romania

    www.icr.ro

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    INSTITUTUL CULTURAL ROMNAleea Alexandru 38Bucureti -1, Romniawww.icr.ro

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    tefana MrmureanuMaxim Trikhanov

    GO EAST

    ROMANIAN CULTURAL INSTITUTE

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    PREFAAINALAIN KAZAHSTANARA CELOR 40 DE FETEORAUL MINUS ZERO

    ATENA SIBERIANLACUL FANTHABAROVSK FRISCO KID AL ASIEICORNUL DE AUR AL STPNULUI ORIENTULUIMLATINA TRANSFORMAT N BOMBONICMOSCOVA, ORAUL BOREAL AL CELOR 7 COLINE

    FOREWORDAINALAIN KAZAKHSTANTHE COUNTRY OF 40 GIRLSTHE MINUS ZERO CITYTHE SIBERIAN ATHENSTHE RIFT LAKEKHABAROVSK THE FRISCO KID OF ASIATHE GOLDEN HORN OF THE MASTER OF THE EASTMARSH LAND TRANSFORMED INTO SUBLIME BEAUTYMOSCOW, THE NORTHERN CITY BUILT ON SEVEN HILLS

    40- ,

    FRISKO KID ,

    07112127

    333945515965

    07112127333945515965

    07112127333945515965

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    Tot ce se afl la Est de Volga, chiar ipentru locuitorii prii europene aRusiei este o Terra Incognita.Ce s mai vorbim de europeni i delocuitorii celorlalte continente? nparte, de vin snt clima, care de altfel,nu este att de aspr, cum o prezint n

    jurnalele lor cltorii din trecut, ireportajele de televiziune, transmise deoameni, ce se duc acolo cu clieeleadnc nrdcinate.Pn n secolul al-XIX-lea, pe hriletiprite n Europa, acest teritoriu eranumit TARTARIA (de la cuvntul gre-cesc tartar, care sun aproximativ lafel ca i cuvntul TTAR, prin careeuropenii i-au desemnat pe localnici).Pentru ei, aceast regiune a fost un felde poart de intrare n iad, ca la greciiantici.Alexandru Macedon credea cLacul Baikal este un hotar al lumii, oparte a Okeanos-ului, care nconjura

    Everything to the east of the RiverVolga, even for inhabitants of EuropeanRussia, is Terra Incognita.What then are we to expect ofEuropeans and the inhabitants of theother continents? Blame is in part dueto the climate though this is not

    quite as extreme as described in thejournals of early travellers andtelevision broadcasts made by peopleharbouring deeply ingrained prejudices.Until the 19th century, maps printed inEurope gave the name of this territoryas Tartaria (from the Greek wordtartar used by Europeans to describethe people of those lands).To them,as to the Ancient Greeks, this regionwas a kind of gate to hell.Alexander of Macedon believed LakeBaikal to be one of boundaries of theworld, a part of Oceanus encirclingthe Earth, which was flat like a plate.

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    PREFAFOREWORD

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    uscatul, plat ca o tipsie.De atunci ceva s-a schimbat. Siberia,Kazahstanul i Kirghizia, unde am avutnorocul s poposim, nu mai sunt oprivelite att de nfricotoare.La nti martie 2007, apte romnitemerari i o cluz rus au plecat

    simultan din punctele A i B, Bucuretii, respectiv, Moscova, pentru a se ntl-ni la jumtatea drumului, la Kiev, nUcraina, de unde au pornit ntr-o expe-diie cultural de aproximativ 30.000de kilometri.Pentru muli membri ai echipei, aceastcltorie a fost un punct de plecare,dac nu a unei viei spirituale noi, cel

    puin a unei alte viziuni asupra realitii.Am crat cu noi i am expus n oraelevizitate, aproximativ 75 de lucrri aleartitilor plastici romni, contemporani.Am gsit n Siberia, chipurile, nzpeziti aipit, artiti i oameni de cultur cu

    Things have changed since then.Siberia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan,where we were lucky enough to spenda few days, no longer represent such afrightening prospect.On 1st March 2007, seven courageousRomanians and a Russian guide set out

    from two different points, Bucharestand Moscow, respectively, to meet halfway, in Kiev, on a cultural expeditioncovering approximately 30,000 km.For many members of the team thisjourney represented the start of,if a not new spiritual lives, then at leasta new perspective on reality.We carried with us and exhibited in

    the towns and cities visitedapproximately 75 works by Romaniancontemporary artists. In allegedlysnowbound and sleepy Siberia, we metartists and people of culture who wereequal to their European counterparts.

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    nimic mai prejos dect colegii loreuropeni.Barocul siberian te uimete prin fineeca i unele opere ale arhitecilor de peBtrnul Continent.Oamenii de acolo sunt sritori, gata ste ajute, fr s trag un profit din

    acest lucru.n plus, am admirat peisaje, pe care rarle ntlneti ntr-un alt loc.O step nemrginit, muni, fluvii,lacuri, golfuri. O mic parte din celevzute de noi le vei gsi n acestalbum. Cltorie imaginar plcut!

    Siberian Baroque amazes you with itsfinesse in the same way that certainexamples of architecture fromthe Old Continent do.The people there are always ready tohelp you, and without ever thinking ofpersonal gain.We were also taken

    aback by the landscapes, of a kindrarely encountered in other places.Endless steppe, mountains, rivers,lakes, bays.You will find a small part of what weexperienced in this album.We wishyou a great imaginary journey!

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    Kazahstanul este situat n Asia Central iocup o suprafa de 270 de miide kilometri ptrai.Se ntinde de la sud estul deltei fluviu-lui Volga pn la Munii Altai, pn lacmpiile Vest-Siberiene la Nord i MuniiTian Shan i Deertul Kyzylkum la Sud.Partea central a Kazahstanului este ocmpie flancat de muntii Saryarka,Altai,Tarbagatai, Zhetysu-Alatau. Cel mai marepisc se numete KHAN TENGRI, cu onlime de 6995 de metri, si este situatn sud-estul rii. Lacuri: Balkhash, Sasykkol,Alakol,

    Zhaisan, Markakol. Lacuri srate: Marea Caspic, Marea

    Aral pe care vechii greci o numeau Gol-

    ful Scitic. Marea Caspic cel mai mare lac

    srat din lume, cu o suprafa de 371 demiide km ptrai; este numit duptribul antic caspi. 6500 de specii de plante i animale,

    dintre care 13% sunt endemice: gazela

    Kazakhstan is situated in Central Asiaand has a surface area of 270,000square kilometres.The countrys borders stretch from thesouth east corner of the Volga Delta inthe west to the Altai Mountains in east,from the West Siberian plains in thenorth to the Tian Mountains andKyzylkum Desert in the south.The central region of Kazakhstanconsists of a large plane flanked bythe Saryarka,Altai,Tarbagatai andZhetzsu-Alatua mountain ranges.The highest peak, at 6,995 metres, iscalled Khan Tengri and can be found inthe south-east of the country. Fresh water lakes: Balkhash, Sasykkol,

    Alakol, Zhaisan and Markakol. Salt water lakes:The Caspian Sea,The

    Aral Sea (known by the Ancient Greeksas the Scythian Gulf). The Caspian Sea, with a surface area

    of 371,000 square kilometres, is thelargest salt water lake in the world. It

    AINALAIN KAZAHSTANAINALAIN KAZAKHSTAN

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    persan, saigak, jerboa, argali, maral, irbis leopard cu blana alb,Artemisia san-

    tonica vierme de lemn cu proprieticurative. Rezervaii naturale: la Alma-Ata,

    Alakol, Ustiurt,Aksu-Zhabagyly,Korgalzhyn, Barsakelmes, Nauryzym,Markakol. 99 de elemente chimice din cele 114

    ale tabelului Mendeleev se afl n aceast

    ar. Zcminte minerale: numrul unu n

    lume la zinc, tungsten i bariu; numruldoi la argint i chromai; numrul trei lacupru i fluorii; numrul patru lamolibden; numrul ase la aur i petrol. Populaie: kazahi, 57,2 %, rui, 27,2%,

    ucraineni 3,1%, uzbeci 2,7%, germani1,6%, ttari, 1,6% i uiguri1,5 %.

    Populaiile nomade de pe vremuris-au numit: saki, scii, savromai, usuni,sarmai, turci, kypchiaki n limba turc,polovei - n limba rus i cumani -denumire dat de latini, kazahi. Baikonur este o insula parautat n

    mijlocul unui deert arid i monoton, cu

    takes its name from the ancient tribeof the Caspi. 6,500 species of plants and animals,

    13% of which are indigenous: Persiangazelle, saigak, jerboa, argali, maral, irbis(snow leopard),Artemisia santonica(wormwood with healing properties). Nature reserves:Alma-Ata,Alakol,

    Ustiurt,Aksu-Zhabagly, Korgalzhyn,Barsakelmes, Nauryzym, Markakol. 99 of the 114 chemical elements on

    periodic table can be found in thiscountry. Mineral deposits: worlds largest

    deposits of zinc, tungsten and barium;worlds second largest deposits of silverand chromates; worlds third largestdeposits of copper and fluorite; worldsfourth largest deposits of molybdenum;

    worlds sixth largest deposits of goldand oil. Population: Kazakh, 57.2%, Russian,

    27.2%, Ukrainian, 3.1%, Uzbek,2.7%, German, 1.6%,Tartar, 1.6%,and Hungarian, 1.5%. The ancient nomadic populations

    13% :

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    temperaturi ce depesc n mod frecvent45 de grade Celsius vara i minus 45 degrade Celsius iarna. Situat n apropiereasingurei sosele care traverseaz stepa dinKazahstan, oraul-cosmodrom a luat fiinn anul 1955, din ordinul preedintelui deatunci al U.R.S.S., Nikita Hrusciov.n ciuda temperaturilor extreme, aeza-rea era i este cel mai bun loc dedecolare din lume. Cursa pentru

    cucerirea spaiului, dezvoltat n strnslegtura cu evoluia Rzboiului Rece, adat ctig de cauz mai nti sovieticilor.Pe 12 aprilie 1961,de la Baikonur selansa Vostok 1, la bordul cruia se afla IuriGagarin, primul om care a ajuns n spaiu.O dat cu trecerea anilor, de la Baikonurau pornit i pornesc nc zeci de misiunispaiale.

    were called: Sakhs, Scythians, Savromats,Usuns, Sarmatians,Turks (known asKipchaks in Turkish, Polovtsians inRussian and Cumans in Latin),and Kazakhs. Baikonur is a city in the middle of an

    arid and monotonous desert wheretemperatures regularly reach 45 degreesCelsius in the summer and minus 45degrees Celsius in winter. Located

    close to the only road crossing theKazakhstan Steppe, this city and itsCosmodrome came into being in 1955following a decree by the then leader ofthe USSR, Nikita Khrushchev.Despite extreme temperatures thislocation was and still remains the bestrocket launching site in the world.The Soviets took an early lead in the

    Space Race, which was a major featureof the Cold War. On 12th April 1961,the space craft Vostok 1 was launchedfrom Baikonur carrying cosmonaut YuriGagarin, the first man in space. Over theyears, Baikonur has and continues to seemany launches into space.

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    Puin art i filosofie Abai ntemeietor al culturii kazahecontemporane, poet, filosof care a trit

    ntre 1845 i 1904; anul 1995 a fostdeclarat de UNESCO:Anul Abai. Carmine Barbaro artist postimpre-

    sionist contemporan italian, stabilit nKazahstan, la Narynkol. Amandos Akanayev pictor, sculptor;

    exprim n lucrrile sale spiritul civilizai-

    ilor nomade. Festivalul Internaional de Art de la

    Tengri Umai (2000 i 2002) la care auparticipat 17 ri. Rusia a venit cu oexpoziie foto-video-performance,intitulat Fotografica a curatorului VladimirOpara. Marea Britanie a participat cuexpoziia AR Cade, iar S.U.A. cu artistulRobert Mirek.Tema festivalulului din 2002

    a fost ORAUL DESCHIS.

    A touch of art and philosophy Abai founder of modern Kazakhculture, poet and philosopher who lived

    between 1845 and 1904.The year 1995was declared by UNESCO the Year ofAbai. Carmine Barbaro postimpressionist

    contemporary Italian artist living inKazakhstan, in Narynkol. Amandos Akanayev painter and

    sculptor who expresses in his worksthe spirit of nomadic civilisation. International Festival of Art in Tengri

    Umai (2000 and 2002) in which 17countries participated. Russia gave aphoto-video-performance calledFotografica by the curator VladimirOpara. Great Britain presented anexhibition called AR Cade, and the USA

    was represented by the artist RobertMirek.The theme of the 2002 festivalwas The Open City.

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    Mic dicionar de limb kazah

    Ata bunic, strmo, printe spiritual Ainalain formul de a te adresa

    cuiva la care ii mult i i urezi numaibine. Cuvntul are rdcini amanice inseamn a trasa cercuri protectoare njurul tu. Aruakh spiritul strmoilor Akyn poet, trubadur, cntre Korzhyn - pung cu cadouri pentru

    nunt (conine fructe uscate, sare, pine)Oli-Tire ritual premergtor nunii;se sacrific oi Kuyov bala ginere Aul sat Toi petrecerea de nunt Edilbai specie de ovine cu partea

    dorsal mare Koshkar berbec Dabe cabalin specific Tobet specie kazah de cine Taza borzoi rusesc, cine considerat

    de ras nobil, pur Tenghe nseamn i bani, dar tot la

    fel se numete i moneda curent a rii

    Small dictionary of Kazakh Ata grandparent, forebear, spiritualfather Ainalain form of address used with

    people close to your heart to wish themwell.This word has Shaman roots andmeans to draw protective circles aroundyou. Aruakh the spirit of the forebears Akyn poet, troubadour, singer

    Korzhyn bag of wedding gifts (con-taining dried fruit, salt, bread)Oli-Tire pre-wedding ritual involving

    the sacrifice of sheep Kuyov bala son-in-law Aul village Toi wedding party Edilbai species of sheep with large

    rump Koshkar ram Dsabe specific type of horse Tobet Kazakh species of dog Taza Russian wolfhound, a breed of

    dog considered noble and pure Tenghe the current name of the

    Kazakh currency

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    GASTRONOMIE

    La pregtirea expoziiei, n sal un tort(blatul era ca un pandipan dulce ipufos) cu crem de caramel, toppingde ciocolat, zahr pudr!Hot Dog n franzel dulce!!!Crenvurtiul era cu pieli de plastici tot dulce.Sosul de roii era i el dulce, fr mutar!

    La sosire, n noapte: chiftele din carnede oaie (carne tocat mricel cusatrul, cu mirodenii, ou, pine, ceap,sare, oet de form alungit, rulaten palme, probabil) cu verdea(mrar, ceap dulce tiat semilun,ptrunjel, coriandru).Vodk rece.Numai lupii mnnc mai mult carne

    dect noi, spun kazahii.La un restaurant horror: mncaretradiional kazah, n ulcic de lutfierbinte, ntr-un castron tot de lut icu mult pine.Se prepar din: bucele de fund de oaie grase, oscior cu carne de oaie,

    GASTRONOMY

    While setting up the exhibition, in thehall a cake (the base was like a spongecake, sweet and fluffy) with caramelcream, a chocolate topping andicing sugar!Hot Dog in sweet white bread!!!The frankfurters, still with theirskins on and also sweet.

    Eaten with a sweettomato sauce, and no mustard!On arrival, at night: meat balls madefrom mutton (thick minced meat,with spices, egg, bread, onion, salt,vinegar elongated, probably rolledbetween the hands) with herbs(dill, sweet onion cut into half-moons,parsley, coriander).

    Chilled vodka.Only wolves eat more meat than we do,say the Kazakhs.A restaurant to give you nightmares:traditional Kazakh food, prepared in hotclay pots and bowls and with lots ofbread: fatty pieces of mutton rump,

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    cartof i morcov copi la cuptor, seu

    fierbinte. Se toarn seul n castron, sepune un pat gros de pine, se amestec ise piseaz. Dup ce totul devine o past,se vars i coninutul solid al ulcelei: iarse amestec. Sios.Te termin.Numai vodka te salveaz.

    mutton on the bone, potatoes and

    carrots cooked in the oven, boiled suet.Pour the suet into the bowl, add a thicklayer of bread, mix together and pummel.When it becomes a paste pour in thesolid contents of the clay pot and mixtogether.Extremely filling stuff. It destroys you.Only vodka can save you.

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    Karaganda

    Salat din: carne de cal (carne de iap,mnz carnea de pe coaste i pulpese taie fii, se sreaz, se mpturete,se fierbe i se las la vnt), cacaval,limb fiart de vit, maionez, morcov,sare, piper.Pine rotund, uor dulce, cu gust depine de cas. Este uns cu ou deasupraca s luceasc.

    Tocni din carne de cal se preparexact ca tocnia din carne de vit,cu sos, garnisit cu cartofi copi ifasole verde.Friptur de vit, cu ceap dulce, prjit.Prea mult ulei!Colunai din aluat cu carne de vit,fieri n zeam (ap srat, piper boabe,foi de dafin). Se pot aduga, dup gust,mrar, ptrunjel. Sau se poate face unrnta din fin, ulei i roii.Bile de brnz foarte, foarte, foartesrat, frmntat cu mna, uscat lasoare specific i Kirghizstanului.Kefir din lapte de iap kums.Salam din carne de cal.

    Karaganda

    Salad made of horse meat (young mare,meat from ribs and legs is cut in strips,salted, rolled, boiled and left in the wind),hard cheese, boiled tongue of beef,mayonnaise, carrots, salt, pepper.Round bread, slightly sweet, with ahomemade flavour. Glazed with egg togive it a shine.Horse meat stew made in the same

    way as beef stew, with sauce, and eatenwith baked potatoes and green peas.Beef steak, with sweet onion, fried.Too much oil!Beef dumplings, boiled in a stock (saltedwater with whole grains of pepper anda bay leaf).Add dill or parsley to taste,or make a gravy from flour, oil andtomatoes.Balls of very, very, very salty cheese,kneaded by hand, sundried also specificto Kyrgyzstan.Kefir from mares milk called kumas.Horse salami.

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    Alma-Ata

    Salat verde, rugola, cacaval tare ras,limb fiart de vit, ceap, ptrunjel.Mandarine mici, ca strugurii albi de la noi,dulci. Se pot mnca cu coaj cu tot.Salat de alge de culoare verde nchis,marinate, cu puin ulei.Roii mici ca alunele.Fistic srat, acrit cu lmie.Bere Karagandinskoie foarte sioas,

    acidulat, cu multe bule. O bereonctuoas din hamei ucrainean iap norvegian.

    Alma-Ata

    Lettuce, rocket, grated cheese, boiledtongue of beef, onion, parsley.Small mandarins, sweet, like the whitegrapes we have in Romania. Can be eatenwith skin and all.Dark green seaweed salad, marinated,with a touch of oil.Small tomatoes like nuts.Salty pistachios, with lemon juice.

    Karagandinskoye beer very filling,acidic, with a lot of gas.A rich beer made with Ukrainian hopsand Norwegian water.

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    Ne desparte de aceast ar o limb depmnt lat ct Atlanticul.Este o republic independent, n AsiaCentral i are o populaie deaproximativ 5 milioane de locuitori,rspndii, care ncotro, pe un pmntdestul de arid, nalt, cu o suprafa deaproximativ 200.000 de kilometri ptrai.

    Acolo triesc cai slbatici, ibeci (berbecide munte), vulturi i irbii (leoparzi demunte cu blan alb i pete maron).Munii Pamir, Altai i Tian-Shan acopermajoritatea teritoriului rii.Kirghizstanul este mprit n 7 regiuniadministrative: Batken, Jalal-Abad,Yssyk-Kul (nseamn lac fierbinte i esteal doilea lac montan ca mrime din lume,

    avnd o suprafa de mai bine de 6.000de kilometri ptrai), Naryn, Osh,Talasi Chuy.Aceast ar frumoas este slab populat,dei numele ei i al naiei nseamn 40 defete. Exist locuri, unde nu a pus piciorulnici o ipenie de om, natura

    We are separated from this country by astretch of land as wide as the Atlantic.It is an independent republic in CentralAsia with a population of approximately5 million scattered across arid, highaltitude terrain with a surface area ofaround 200,000 square kilometres. It ishome to wild horses, ibexes (mountain

    goats), vultures and irbis (snow leopard).Most of the country is covered by thePamir, Altai and Tian Shan mountains.Kyrgyzstan has 7 administrative regions:Batken, Jalal-Abad, Issyk-Kul (home to thesecond largest saline lake in the worldwith a surface area of more than 6,000square kilometres; its name means hotlake), Naryn, Osh,Talas and Chui.

    This beautiful country is thinly populated,even though its name and that of thenation means 40 girls.There are placeshere where no human being has ever laidfoot and where the wilderness remainsuntouched.You can find desert,semi-desert and alpine regions.

    ARA CELOR 40 DE FETETHE COUNTRY OF 40 GIRLS 40-

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    slbatic de acolo rmnnd neatins.

    Putei gsi zone deertice,semi-deertice, alpine.Populaia btina este nomad,tie drumuri i trectori printre muni,spre deosebire de cea stabilit pevremea fostei U.R.S.S., la ora.Cel mai important drum al negustorilornomazi de pe vremuri se numea Manas,la fel ca epopeea kirghiz. Acest drum

    se ntinde de la lacul Yssyk-Kul pn lamunii Altai, de la rul Irtysh, fluviulObi i pn la fluviul Enisei.Pe vremuri, mii de caravane strbteauaceste meleaguri, crnd mtase imirodenii. Acum, aceste locuri suntvizitate de turiti i de artiti ndrgostiifr scpare de asprimea molatec aAsiei Centrale.

    The native population is nomadic and

    knows roads and passes through themountains, unlike the population thatmigrated to the city in the days of theUSSR.The most important nomadic traderoute in the old days was called Manas,just like the Kyrgyzstani saga.This roadstretches from the Issyk-Kul Lake to theAltai Mountains and the Irtysh River to

    the Ob and Yenisey rivers.In the old days, thousands of caravanswould cross this region carrying silk andspices.Today, the same places are visitedby tourists and artists who have fallenirreparably in love with the gentleruggedness of Central Asia.

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    Cuirioziti:

    Munii Tian-Shan Centrali sunt numiide localnici Tengri-Tag. Gheari la Khan Tengri. Khan-Tengri

    s-ar traduce Munii Sngelui (localniciii numesc Kan Too). Cel mai mare ru din Kirghizstan,

    Tarim se vars n lacul Lobnor din China. Primul European, care a venit n

    Kirghizstan n anul 1903, pentru a vedea

    ghearii, a fost Gotfried Mertzbaher,austriac, profesor la Universitatea dinViena; mai nainte, a ajuns n 1886,pn la ghearul Inylchek unul dintrecei mai mari gheari din lume,inginerul rus Ignatiev. Cel mai nalt vrf al rii, Pobeda

    Victorie n limba rus are o altitudinede 7.439 de metri, se afl n lanulmuntos Tian-Shan de Sud. Rezervaia natural de la Ala Archa

    este situat la distana de 6.500 dekilometri de Polul Nord. Syrty zon semideertic, aflat la

    altitudinea de peste 3.000 de metri. Lacul Issyk-Kul: 80 de ruri mici se

    Curiosities:

    Locals call the Central Tian-ShanMountains Tengri-Tag The glaciers at Khan Tengri. Khan-

    Tengri translates as Blood Mountains(locals call them Kan Too) The largest river in Kyrgyzstan, the

    Tarim, flows into Lake Lobnor in China. The first European to visitor

    Kyrgyzstan was the Austrian Professor

    from the University of Vienna GotfriedMertzbaher, who, in 1903, came to seethe glaciers. Earlier, in 1886, the Russianengineer Ignatiev reached the Inylchekglacier, one of the largest glaciers in theworld. The highest peak in the country is

    called Pobeda,which means victory inRussian. It has an altitude of 7,439metres and is situated in the SouthTian-Shan mountain chain. The Ala Archa natural park lies 6,500

    kilometres from the North Pole. The semi-desert Syrty area, located

    at over 3,000 metres altitude. Lake Issyk-Kul: 80 small rivers flow

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    vars n el i 9 ruri curg din el.n Kirghizstan se pot vedea rmie

    neanderthaliene, pietroglife. Tot n aceast ar se poate vedea o

    armur a unui cavaler saxon, nlocalitatea Chigu aflat pe malullacului Yssyk-Kul. Marele Drum al Mtsii care traversa

    Kirghizstanul: Tash-Rabat, Osh, Suyap,Balasagun.

    Cinghiz Aitmatov, scriitor, nscut n1928. Autor al unor opere renumite:O zi mai lung dect veaculi Eafodultraduse i n limba romn. Primulkirghiz ambasador rus la curteaDucelui de Luxemburg, n anii 1990.

    into it and 9 flow out. In Kyrgyzstan you can find

    Neanderthal remains and petroglyphs. Still in the same country you can see

    the armour of a Saxon Knight at Chiguon the coast of Lake Issyk-Kul. The Great Silk Road crossed

    Kyrgyzstan via Tash-Rabat, Osh, Suyapand Balasagun. The writer Chingiz Aitmatov, born in

    1928. Known for the following works:The Day Lasts More than a HundredYears and The Scaffold (also translatedinto Romanian). He was the first Russianof Kyrgyz origin to become ambassadorto the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg inthe 1990s.

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    GASTRONOMIE

    BiskekSalat cu carne de cal, maionez,ou fiert, cacaval tare i srat,cartofi fieri i tiai cuburi,mazre, piper, sare.

    GASTRONOMY

    BishkekHorse meat salad, mayonnaise, boiledegg, hard salted cheese, boiled dicedpotatoes, peas, salt, pepper.

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    Novosibirsk. Kilometrul geografic 0 alRusiei. n locul acesta s-a ridicat ocapel, deoarece n timpul celui de aldoilea rzboi mondial, cnd frontul ger-man avansa spre Est, sa luat decizia cainima industrial i feroviar a Rusiei scoincid cu centrul geografic al rii.La acea vreme, kilometrii de ine i

    aveau nceputul numrtorii aici.Oraul are cel mai mare teatru de operi de balet din Rusia, avnd o capacitatede peste 2000 de locuri, fiind mai marechiar dect Teatrul Boloi.Muzeul Municipal, unde am expus, este ocldire ridicat n 1911, ntins, alb, cucasetoane i faade colorate. Amintetevag de palatele imperiale de la Sankt

    Petersburg, dar, fiind departe de acesta,aerul provincial i pune amprenta. Spaiilargi, potrivite dimensiunilor Siberiei,sunt umplute cu exponate specificezonei: obiecte lucrate minuios n coajde mesteacn, icoane cusute cu aecolorate, obiecte din lemn lcuit.

    Novosibirsk. Geographically speaking,this is Russias kilometre zero.A chapel was built in this place, sinceduring the Second World War, when theGerman front was advancing eastwards,it was decided that Russias centre ofindustry and the railways shouldcoincide with the geographical centre of

    the country. In those days, train journeydistances were measured from thispoint.The city is also home to Russiaslargest theatre for opera and ballet, witha capacity of over 2,000 seats,making iteven larger than the Bolshoi Theatre.The Municipal Museum, where weexhibited, is in a wide white colouredbuilding from 1911 with a colourful

    faade. It is vaguely reminiscent of theImperial Palace in St. Petersburg, thoughwith such great distance between themit has a more provincial air.Wide spaces,in keeping with Siberias dimensions, arefilled with exhibits specific to the region:finely carved objects of birch bark, icons

    ORAUL MINUS ZEROTHE MINUS ZERO CITY

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    Locul este plin de tot felul de exponate,

    de parc am pune piciorul ntr-un Wun-derkabinet de odinioar.Colecia Muzeului de Art a fost adunatn timpul i dup cel de-al doilea RzboiMondial, cu ajutorul colegilor de laMuzeul Rus, Ermitaj, Galeriile Tretiakov ide la alte muzee din fosta U.R.S.S.n Rusia, muzeul este un loc, unde poizbovi toat ziua. Pe lng slile destinateprezentrii exponatelor, mai exist, laparter, i alte faciliti: restaurante,cafenele, librrii, magazine cu suveniruri,toate fiind deschise n timpulprogramului de vizitare a muzeului.Sculptura din font este foarte apreciatde localnici. Se pot vizita GrdinaZoologic, cea mai mare din Siberia,Grdina Botanic, Muzeul Soarelui.La Muzeul de Art putei admiralucrrile artistului Roerich (1874-1947),care a cltorit i a trit cteva deceniin India, Himalaya,Asia Central, China,Mongolia i Tibet, studiind tradiiilepopulare, explornd locuri misterioasei sacre.

    sewn from coloured thread, items of

    lacquered wood. Entering the museum,packed with all manner of exhibits, is likestepping into a Wunderkammer of old.The collection of the Museum of Artwas created during and after the SecondWorld War with the help of RussianMuseum,The State Museum Hermitage,The Tretiakov Gallery and othermuseums in the former USSR.In Russia, a museum is a place whereyou can spend a whole day. Besides theexhibition rooms, the ground floor alsooffers other facilities: restaurants, cafes,book shops, souvenir shops, all of whichare open during the museums visitinghours. Cast iron sculpture is verypopular among the locals.Visit the Zoo,the largest in Siberia, the BotanicalGardens and the Museum of the Sun.At the Museum of Art enjoy the worksof Roerich (1874-1947), who travelledand spent some decades in India,Himalaya, Central Asia, China,Mongolia and Tibet, where he studiedlocal traditions, exploring mysterious

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    n faa Muzeului Municipal se organizeazn fiecare an un simpozion de sculpturn zpad.Oraul Kolvani a pierdut la sfritulsecolului al XIX-lea statutul de punctde tranzit n traseul sinuos alDrumului Mtsii.Acum, la Kolvani putei vizita Muzeulde Istorie i Etnografie sau ateliereleartitilor plastici care au ales s serefugieze aici, evitnd forfota citadin.La Casa de Cultur din Kolvani, copiiifoarte talentai ai localnicilor nvadesen, muzic i dans.Protectorul oraului Novosibirsk i alarului Nicolae al-II-lea este Sf.Nicolae.Clima este variabil. n aprilie s-ar puteas avei ansa s prindei temperaturade minus 0 grade, aa cum am avutnorocul noi.

    Vacan plcut!

    and sacred sites.In front of the Municipal Museum theyhold a yearly workshop on snowsculpture.The town of Kolyvan lost its status atthe end of the 19th century as a transitpoint on the winding route of the SilkRoad.Today tourists in Kolyvan can visitthe Museum of History and Ethnographyand the workshops of artists who tookrefuge here to avoid the hustle and bus-tle of city life.At Kolyvans House of Culture, talentedlocal children learn drawing, music anddance.The patron saint of the city ofNovosibirsk and Nicholas II is St.Nicholas.The climate is variable: in Apriltheres still a chance youll seetemperatures of minus zero,

    which is precisely what happened to us.Have a nice trip!

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    GASTRONOMIENovosibirskPe nava Paris, acostat pe malulfluviului Obi: un platou cu pete srat,afumat la rece, compus din buci de:fileu de pete rou /salmonid, nisetru,paltus (Hippoglossus hippoglossus)i crevei cu zeam de lmie.

    Salat la Russe (n limba rus i sespune salat Olivier) i se prepar din:cartofi fieri, tiai cubulee, mazre,carne de vit fiart, tiat tot cubulee,castravei cruzi, maionez, mrar iptrunjel, tiate foarte foarte mrunt,sare, piper (mirodenii dup gust).Pinea cu care ne-au ntmpinatcei de la muzeul Kolvani (orel delng Novosibirsk) era fcut dinaluat dulce i era uns cu ou deasupra,ca s luceasc, semnnd cu o pinepasre din nordul Moldovei.Salat din limb de vit, fiart, uscat,cu sos de roii, zahr, ulei, sare i piper.Salat din sfecl roie, fiart i rzuit,

    GASTRONOMY

    NovosibirskOn board the boat named Paris,moored to the bank of the river Obi a plate of salted fish, cold smoked,composed of pieces of red fish /salmonid fillet, common sturgeon,paltus (Hippoglossus hippoglossus) andshrimps served with lemon juice.

    Salad la Russe (in Russian they sayOlivier salad): boiled diced potatoes,peas, boiled diced beef, raw cucumber,mayonnaise, dill and parsley choppedvery fine, salt, pepper (add spices totaste).The bread they welcomed us with atthe museum in Kolyvan (the smalltown near Novosibirsk) was made ofa sweet dough and glazed with egg; itresembled pasre bread from thenorth of Moldavia.Salad made with tongue of beef, boiled,dried,with tomato sauce, sugar, oil, saltand pepper.Salad made with beetroot, boiled,

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    amestecat cu bucele de pete srat,

    maionez, porumb fiert, oet i sare.Greeli haioase de nota zece:ntr-un meniu al unui restaurant dinoraul Novosibirsk, nu spun numele!putei citi: foi de varz umplute cucarne tocat - adic sarmale; shaormacu carne de porc (o mncare deprovenien semit); language beef,alias limb de vit.

    grated, mixed with pieces of salted fish,

    mayonnaise, boiled corn, vinegar, salt.Some hilarious mistakes:In a menu in a restaurant inNovosibirsk (I wont mention thename) you can read: cabbage leavesstuffed with meat balls (instead ofminced meat!), i.e. like Romaniansarmale; shaworma with pork(a recipe of Jewish origin!); languagebeef, alias tongue of beef.

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    Prima impresie a fost aceea de oratroienit. Cdea zpada peste noi i pesteceea ce purtam de 3 sptmni, de nu seoprea.Totul era acoperit de o pturalb i ud. Ne-a salvat un trenuletras de un tractor, ce a remorcat metriicubi de bagaje. Cldiri de lemn,colorate i extrem de traforate

    se ntind n faa ochilor notri.Oraul se afl de peste 300 de ani, laconfluena rurilor Angara iUshakovka (Ida). Datorit frumuseiicldirilor sale, a fost denumit Atenasiberian. La aproximativ 70 dekilometri de ora se ntinde Baikalul,cel mai mare lac de ap dulce din lume.Se spune, c locuitorii de pe aceste

    meleaguri cnt ceea ce vd. Prereanoastr este c au cele mai frumoasecntece din lume. Un specific al zoneisiberiene este meteugritul n coajde mesteacn: tot felul de obiectetrebuincioase, chiar i icoane.Baikal zon turistic: ski-gliding, snii

    My first impression was that of a snow-bound city. Snow had been falling on usand what we had been wearing for thelast three weeks. It refused to stop.Everything was covered in a large wetblanket of white.We were rescuedby a small train pulled by a tractor thatcarried our masses of luggage.

    Wooden buildings, colourful anddecoratively carved, spread out beforeour eyes. For over 300 years the cityhas been at the confluence of the Angaraand Ushakovka rivers.Thanks to thebeauty of its buildings, it was named theSiberian Athens. Some 70 kilometresfrom the city there is Lake Baikal, thelargest body of fresh water in the world.

    It is said that inhabitants of these partssing about what they see. If this is true,they must have the most beautiful songsin the world.This part of Siberia isrenowned for its crafts made of birchbark, all sorts of useful items and evenicons.

    ATENA SIBERIANTHE SIBERIAN ATHENS

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    trase de cini, cazare ieftin deocamdat,

    motosanie, ATV-uri, clrie, amabilitatealocalnicilor, baie (banya) ruseasc,telescaun, iarna ski montan.n plus, galeria de art de la Listvianka.Aici l-am cunoscut pe artistul Yurii.El renvie mortciuni metalice din carecreeaz lucrri de art. Curtea casei salee un muzeu. Casieria este un borcan desticl, n care vizitatorii dac vor pun

    ceva bnui. Poarta muzeului este ntot-deauna deschis, avnd afiat pe ea,telefonul artistului.La Tal, localitate pe malul rului Angara,ni s-a tiat rsuflarea, cnd am vizitatMuzeul de Arhitectur Rural i Etno-grafie. Acolo, troienite n zpad,zac casele autentice izbe i bisericide lemn ale colonitilor rui i alebtinailor evenci.

    Tourism in Baikal: ski-gliding, sleighs

    pulled by dogs, accommodation stillcheap, jet skis, quad bikes, horse riding,local hospitality, Russian baths (banya),chair lifts, winter skiing.Theres also anart gallery in Listvyanka, which is where Imet the artist Yurii. He brings deadmetallic corpses back to life, creatingworks of art.The courtyard of his houseis a museum.The cashier is a glass jar

    into which visitors if they want maydrop a few coins.The gate to the muse-um is also open and has a notice on itgiving the telephone number of theartist.At Taltzi, on the banks of the riverAngara, we were left breathless afterseeing the Museum of Rural Architectureand Ethnography. Here, covered in snow,lie the original houses izbas andwooden churches of the Russiancolonialists and Evenkian population.

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    COOPERATIVA ART I

    PRECIZIEArtitii din Irkutsk: Serghei Aloian,Alexandr Muraviov, Serghei ipin.Uniunea Artitilor Plastici foarte bineorganizat, galeria cu lucrri de vnzareale lucrrilor artitilor fogia continuu,plin ochi cu de toate.Cea mai puternic filial a Uniunii

    Artitilor Plastici din Irkutsk este cea aartelor decorative. Uniunea ArtitilorPlastici, cu ajutorul sponsorilor,organizeaz Festivalul de Art Grafic;ultima ediie a avut loc n 2006.Muzeul Regional de Art din Irkutskediteaz albume despre exponatele sale,tiprite la o calitate excepional;depoziteaz i expune peste 50.000 delucrri i obiecte de art.Colecia muzeului a fost iniiat deV.P.Sukacev, descendent al unei familiinobiliare din Petersburg i al unei familiide negustori,Trapeznikov, din Siberia; el afost i primar al Irkutsk-ului timp de 30de ani, ncepnd cu anul 1885;

    THE ART AND PRECISION

    COOPERATIVEArtists from Irkutsk: Sergey Aloian,Alexander Muraviov, Sergey Shipitzin.Union of Plastic Artists very wellorganised, gallery of works for sale,packed and teeming with people.The most powerful branch of the Unionof Plastic Artists in Irkutsk is thedecorative arts.The Union of PlasticArtists, with the help of sponsors, stagesthe Festival of Graphic Art (last held in2006).The Regional Art Museum inIrkutsk publishes catalogues of itsexhibits that are of exceptional printquality; it exhibits and has in storageover 50,000 items and pieces of art.The museum collection was begun byV. P. Sukachev, who was the descendant

    of an aristocratic family fromSt. Petersburg and a family of merchantscalled Trapeznikov from Siberia; he wasalso the mayor of Irkutsk for a periodof 30 years, beginning in 1885; hesponsored the expedition by

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    a sponsorizat expediia lui G.N. Potanini a lui N.M.Yadrintsev n China,Tibet i

    G. N. Potanin and N. M.Yadrintsev toChina,Tibet and Mongolia.The works

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    GASRTONOMIE

    IrkutskUn platou compus din: buci de fileude pete alb omul, din familiacoregonilor, pete rou syomga, icrenegre i roii, ou fiert, mrar, ptrunjel,semine de cedru siberian, msline, unt,lmie, maionez.Alt platou compus din buci de fileude pete omul, afumat la rece, lmie,msline, unt, ou fiert, ceap roie dulce,cacavaluri moi i tari, tiate subire,brnz cu mucegai verde n susan,nuci, struguri fr smburi, sos debrnz iute i srat (ca o brnz deburduf de la noi).Am mncat cu mare plcere crutoaneprjite, cu mult usturoi, foarte srate.Cu bere!!!Salat din sfecl roie, cu pete marinati tiat cuburi, cartofi fieri, maionez,asezonate cu ceap roie.

    GASTRONOMY

    IrkutskA plate of slices of white fillet of fish ofthe coregon family (omul), red fish(syomga), red and black caviar, boiled egg,dill, parsley, Siberian cedar pine nuts,olives, butter, lemon,mayonnaise.Another plate of pieces of filet of omulfish, dry smoked, lemon,olives, butter,boiled egg, sweet red onion, thinly slicedsoft and hard cheeses, blue cheese withsesame seeds, nuts, seedless grapes andsauce made of spicy and salty cheese likebrnz de burduf (cheese made in aleather sack) in Romania.With great pleasure we ate fried crou-

    tons with lots of garlic and salt accompanied by beer!Beetroot salad, with marinated fish cutinto cubes, boiled potatoes, mayonnaise,seasoned with red onion.By chance, tens of thousands of

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    i a lui N.M.Yadrintsev n China,Tibet iMongolia.Lucrrile achiziionate de el pentrucolecia muzeului, direct din atelierulartistului dorit sau la licitaii, strbteaucu trenul, peste 5000 de kilometri, de la

    Petersburg pn la Irkutsk.Dup 1917, muzeul i-a mbogitcolecia cu opere de art oriental dinChina, India, Mongolia; tot atunci muzeula primit un numr considerabil de lucrride la Fondul de Stat al Muzeelor dinRusia.Sunt ncurajate donaiile particulare; seorganizeaz chiar expoziii n muzeu

    numai cu obiecte donate.

    China,Tibet and Mongolia.The worksacquired by him for the museum collec-tion, straight from the workshop of achosen artist or by auction, travelled bytrain a distance of over 5,000 kilometres,from St. Petersburg to Irkutsk.

    After 1917, the museum added to itscollection oriental works of art fromChina, India and Mongolia; in the sameperiod, the museum acquired a significantnumber of works from the Russian StateMuseum Fund. Private donations areencouraged; special exhibitions are evenheld featuring only donated works.

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    Cu totul ntmpltor am gsit la Irkutsk,

    la zeci de mii de kilometri de Europa ide Cuba, zahr de trestie, cu care ne-amndulcit cafeaua de diminea.Ct timp v plimbai prin ora, puteimesteca chewing gum siberian de fapt,un produs foarte natural. Este sev decedru i are un gust specific, care nupoate fi descris.

    Trenul Irkutsk HabarovskSalat Barguzin (de la denumirea datde rui unei etnii btinae):mere, ardeiroii, porumb fiert, sfecl roie, seminede cedru.Seminele de cedru au un miros i ungust specific.Salmonid (Gorbua) la cuptor, morcovi,maionez, ceap.Plant de mestecat (limonnik) un fel

    de ntritor (ce anume ntrete?),o rdcin cu gust de lmie.Ghebe marinate, cu ceap i pete (un felde biban).

    kilometres from Europe and Cuba,

    we found cane sugar, which we usedin our morning coffee.While walking through the town you canchew Siberian chewing gum, which is infact a very natural product made ofcedar sap that has a specific taste thatdefies description.

    Train from Irkutsk to KhabarovskBarguzin salad (the name is taken fromthe name given by the Russians to anative ethnic group): apples, red peppers,boiled corn, beetroot, cedar pine nuts.Cedar pine nuts have a specific smelland taste.Baked fish of the salmonidae family(gorbush), carrots, mayonnaise, onion.Plants for chewing (limonnik), a fortifier(who knows what it fortifies?), a root

    with the taste of lemon.Marinated fungi, with onion and fish(a type of perch).

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    Am plecat de la Irkutsk, pe un drumerpuit, care nu se mai sfrea.i la 45 de kilometri de Irkutsk, amintrat ntr-un muzeu al satului.Case i morminte de amanipretutindeni, deoarece populaia de aicipractica amanismul. ngropate n zpad,zac iurte i morminte din lemn.

    Dup un drum sinuos i case din butuci,am ajuns la un ponton. Rul Angara!Curge din lacul Baikal i se vars nFluviul Enisei, ajungnd n Oceanulngheat de Nord. Lacul ozeron limbarus poate i de aici vine cuvntuliezer, care nseamn n limba romnap de munte stttoare i adnc,ne primete circumspect. Un defileu destnci i pzete oglinda. Doar n locul,de unde Angara se scurge, ncepe s sevad apa. La mijlocul torentului, o stncmititic Stnca amanului se iete ipzete mprejurimile. O legend spunec aceast gur de ieire a rului nunghea niciodat.

    We left Irkutsk on a winding road whichseemed to go on for ever. 45 kilometresoutside Irkutsk we entered a villagemuseum.There were houses and tombsof shamans everywhere, since thepopulation in these parts used topractice Shamanism. Covered in snow,wecaught sight of yurts and wooden tombs.

    After more winding road and passingsome log houses we reached anobservation platform.The Angara Riverflows out of Lake Baikal before joining theYenisey River and flowing into the FrozenOcean of the North.The lake (ozero inRussian and maybe also the source of theRomanian word iezer, meaning a station-ary and deep body of water) welcomes uswith suspicion.A rocky gorge guards itsfrozen reflective surface. Only where theAngara begins, do we start to see thewater. In the middle of the streamingwater, a small rock, known as the ShamanRock, appears momentarily, a guardian ofthe surroundings. Legend has it the mouth

    LACUL FANTTHE RIFT LAKE,

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    Alta spune c o fac spiritele lacului - focide ap dulce (nerpa), singurele de acest

    fel din lume.Suprafaa aparent linitit a lacului,se ntinde la nesfrit. n deprtare suntmuni i pn acolo, fuioare de cea.Sub zpada viscolit, ghea neagr!Unii trec cu mainile peste lac, ca sscurteze drumul dintre un orel i altul.Nu am putut s nelegem dimensiunilelacului i violena vrtejurilor de zpad,

    pn cnd nu ne-am plimbat pe laccu un motoglisor i nu am respiratn fa vntul. n asemenea momentei se taie respiraia i cei care conducglisorul, fac tot ce pot ca s-i dea fiori.Se poate practica orice sport itratament de iarn - saun finlandez,banya ruseasc (o saun umed i cuautoflagelare pe spate cu mturici de

    mesteacn), moto-sanie, ski-gliding,clrie, sanie tras de cini, nchiriere deATV-uri, ski montan, toate asezonatecu vodk i pete endemic omul ,afumat la rece. n plus, Muzeul de tiineale Naturii un spectacol cu foci dresate.

    of the river has never frozen over andattributes this phenomenon to the spirits

    of the lake, fresh water seals (nerpa), theonly seals of their kind in the world.Theseemingly calm surface of the lakestretches out endlessly. In the distancethere are mountains, blankets of misthanging in front of them. Beneath thesnowdrifts there is black ice! Somepeople are crossing the lake by car, short-ening the distance between one city and

    another.We were unable to comprehendthe size of the lake and the violence ofthe snowstorms until we took a trip overthe lake by hovercraft and felt the wind inour faces.At moments like this you areliterally left breathless, and the crew ofthe hovercraft do their best to send anextra shiver down your spine. Here thevisitor can practice all types of sport and

    winter health cures: Finnish sauna, Russiansteam baths, called banya (a humid saunaand self-flagellation of the back withwhisks of birch branches), snowmobiles,ski-gliding, horse riding, sleighs pulled bydogs, quad bike rental, skiing, all served

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    Enorma oglind de ghea estenconjurat de mici localiti, ai cror

    locuitori fac tot ce pot ca s-i ofereun timp de neuitat. Este de fapt o ieiredin timp, deoarece luciul neltor al apeite face s nelegi de ce Alexandru celMare Iskander a crezut c aici setermin Pmntul i ncepe Oceanul.

    Printre altele:Baikalul are o suprafa i o adncime

    de mii de metri, ngheai 7 luni pe an.n mijlocul lacului exist o insul Olhon care mai tot timpul anului este nsorit.Aici, mi s-a explicat, c nu plou i nuninge niciodat.Artitii din Irkutsk vin pe aceast insuls picteze en pleine-air.Alte guri spun c aici se afl mormntul numrul X al lui Ginghis Han.

    with vodka and the local indigenous fish,omul, cold smoked. On top of this there

    is the Museum of Natural Sciences andlive seal shows.The enormous mirror ofice is surrounded by small towns whoseinhabitants stop at nothing in makingyour stay unforgettable.The whole expe-rience is like stepping outside of time,and when you see the deceptive surfaceof the water you understand whyAlexander the Great, known also as

    Iskander, believed that this was wherethe Earth ended and the Ocean began.

    Other facts:Lake Baikal has a surface area and depthof thousands of metres and is frozenover for 7 months of the year.There is an island in the middle of thelake called Olhon that enjoys almost per-

    manent year-round sunshine. Here, I wastold, it neither rains nor snows.Artists from Irkutsk visit this island topaint en plein air.Some say the burial site of GhenghisKhan is located there.

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    GASTRONOMIE

    BaikalPete, mare, rou (keta) o salmonidafumat la rece. De dorit a seconsuma cu vodc, pe platoa deghea a Baikalului.Raskolotka mncare preferat delocalnici. Se prepar din peteleomul crud, peste care se presarcondimente i sare. S triasc gheaa!

    De orice fel. Se mnnc ngheat,despicat cu toporul.Salat de mere, cacaval, maionez,usturoi, sare, ceap.Icre de Harius Thymallus vulgaris (roietice, mici, nu prea srate inu att de agresive la gust ca icrelede somon) i icre de Omul (glbui,mici i tari, pocnesc n dini se

    aseamn cu cele de tiuc).Omul afumat la cald (cumprat de subtejghea, n piaa din Listvianka).Salat de calamar, cu maionez, ceap,crevei i sare.

    GASTRONOMY

    BaikalFish, large, red (keta) a cold smokedfish of the salmonidae family. Best eatenwith vodka on the frozen surface ofLake Baikal.Raskolotka the locals favourite food.Made from raw omul fish,with spicesand salt scattered over it. Long live ice!Of all kinds! This dish is eaten frozen,

    cleaved open by axe.Salad made of apples, cheese, mayon-naise, garlic, salt, onion.Harius caviar (Thymallus vulgaris), red-dish, small, not very salty and not asaggressive in taste as Salmon caviar)and Omul caviar (yellowish, small andhard, bursts between your teeth;resembles pike eggs). Hot smoked

    omul (bought below the counter fromthe market in Listvyanka).Calamari Salad, with mayonnaise, onion,shrimps and salt.Calamari Salad with mayonnaise, cream,garlic, salt all marinated with lots of

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    Salat de calamari cu maionez,

    smntn, usturoi, sare toatemarinate cu mult ceap ,pine neagr de secar.Se bea vudk rece cu miros demiori (produs n Ucraina) ivodk Baik (producie autohton)n banya, la lighean cu ap rece.Hamsii crude puin srate, cu bererece, la crciuma Dauria din Listvianka.

    onion, black rye bread. Cold vodka

    with the scent of catkins (made inUkraine) and Baik vodka (locallyproduced) is drunk in the banya,kept in a bucket of cold water.Raw anchovies, gently salted, takenwith cold beer, at the Dauria barin Listvyanka.

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    Muzeele de Stat din ExtremuluiOrient Rus

    Muzeul, unde am expus noi, a fostnfiinat la iniiativa Societii GeograficeImperiale Ruse n 19 aprilie 1894.Pn n 1902, muzeul purta numele luiN.I.Grodekov, guvernatorul general

    al regiunii Priamursky Krai,tot el deschiznd n muzeu o librrie.Pn la nceputul secolului al-XX-lea,muzeul i-a expus coleciile laNovgorod, Kazan,Chicago i Paris.n acest muzeu a lucrat V.K.Arseniev,un explorator extraordinar,om de tiin i scriitor. El a transformatmuzeul ntr-un centru de cercetare

    foarte important. Din anul 2000 muzeuleste membru al ICOM i al UniuniiMuzeelor din Rusia. Muzeul deine peste370 de mii de exponate, este vizitat depeste 180 de mii de persoane anual,organizeaz peste 2500 de excursii, cur-suri i conferine.

    State Museums in Russias Far East

    The museum where we exhibited wasfounded at the initiative of the ImperialRussian Geographical Society on 19thApril 1894. Up until 1902, the museumcarried the name of N. I. Grodekov, thegovernor general of the Primorsky Krai

    region of Russia who opened a librarywithin the museum.By the beginning of the 20th century, themuseum had already exhibited its collec-tions in Novgorod, Kazan, Chicago andParis.This museum was the work placeof V. K.Arseniev, explorer extraordinaire,scientist and writer. He transformed themuseum into an important centre of

    research. Since 2000, the museum hasbeen a member of ICOM and the Unionof Russian Museums.The museum con-tains over 370,000 exhibits, has over180,000 visitors a year and organisesover 2,500 tours, courses andconferences.

    HABAROVSK FRISCO KID AL ASIEIKHABAROVSK THE FRISCO KID OF ASIA FRISKO KID

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    Itinereaz anual peste 11 expoziii.Se pot vedea specii rare precum: tigrul

    siberian (panthera tigris altaica), lupulrou, leopardul, raa mandarinka ipetele Kaluga, din familia sturionilor,care triete n Amur i atingedimensiuni impresionante, de pnla 5 metri lungime.Muzeul a reconstituit habitate precum:taiga, pduri mixte de foioase i conifere,coasta mrii Ohotsk.

    Curioziti: cranii i coli de mamui,meteoriii din Sikhote Alin iunicul schelet din lume al unei vacide mare Steller

    Secia de etnografie: populaii aborigene: Nanai,Ulchi,

    Udeghe, Negidal-Tsi, Orochi, Nivkhi,

    Eveni, Evenk. Populaii de vntori,pescari, care au practicat amanism. casele de lemn - izbe, mbrcmintea,

    icoanele, obiectele de cult religioscretin ortodox ale exploratorilor,pionierilor rui.

    It runs over 11 travelling exhibitions ayear.The museum contains some rare

    species, e.g. the Siberian tiger (pantheratigris altaica), the red wolf, leopard, theMandarinka duck and Kaluga fish of thesturgeon family, which lives in the Amurriver and can grow to an impressive 5metres in length.The museum hasreconstructed certain habitats, e.g. taiga,mixed forests of deciduous and conifer,and the Okhotsk coastline.

    Curiosities: mammoth skulls and tusks,the meteorites in Sikhote-Alin and theworlds only skeleton of Stellers Sea Cow.

    Ethnographic section: Indigenous population: Nanais, Ulchs,

    Udeghe, Negidaltsi, Orochs, Nivkhi,Eveny and Evenks. Populations of

    hunters and fishermen who practicedShamanism.Wooden houses (izbas), clothing,

    icons, Orthodox religious paraphernalialeft behind by explorers and Russianpioneers.

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    colecia de arme recuperate dupbtlia de la Volochaevsk (rzboiul civil

    din Extremul Orient Rus).

    Alte departamente ale Muzeuluide Stat: Muzeul de Arheologie, situat ntr-o

    cldire ce a aparinut negustorului B.P.Lben. Snt expuse lucrri datnd dinepoca de piatr pn la evul mediutimpuriu, copii dup pietroglife. Cele mai

    vechi originale au cam 8-10 mii de ani. Muzeul de la Sikaci-Alian, aflat la 70

    de kilometri de Habarovsk, unde suntprezentate obiecte arheologice ietnografice, precum pietroglife gravatede pe timpul unor civilizaii strvechi,ale cror ritualuri i inscripii nu au fostdescifrate nici pn astzi. Muzeul de Art din Habarovsk a fost

    nfiinat n 1931. El deine lucrri deiconografie, de pictur rus ncepndcu secolul al-XVIII-lea. Sunt expuseopere de art create de: I.K.Aivazovski,A.I.Kuingi, P.P. Vereceaghin,V.I. Surikov,V.M.Vasneov, I.I. ikin, I.E. Repin, I.I.

    Collections of weapons recoveredfrom the battle of Volochaevsk (the civil

    war in Russias Far East).

    Other departments of theState Museum: The Museum of Archaeology, located

    in a building belonging to the merchantB. P. Lben.The museums exhibitsinclude items from the Stone Age to theEarly Middle Ages as well as copies of

    petroglyphs.The oldest original items are8,000-10,000 years old. The Sikhacy-Alian Museum, located

    some 70 kilometres from Khabarovsk,exhibits items of archaeological andethnographical interest including petro-glyphs carved by ancient civilisationswhose rituals and inscriptions remainundeciphered to this day.

    The Museum of Art in Khabarovskwas established in 1931. It containsiconographic works as well as Russianpaintings from the 18th centuryonwards.Art exhibits include works by I.K.Aivazovsky,A. I. Kuingy, P. P.

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    Levitan,A.M.Korin, K.S.Petrov-Vodkin.

    Curioziti: multitudinea de maini cu volan

    pe dreapta dei se circul normal,ca la noi. reclamele magazinelor sunt n limba

    rus, japonez i chinez. mai toate barurile i restaurantele

    se deschid la ora 12 ziua. aproape toate felurile de mncare

    se prepar cu semine de cedru.

    Vereschaghin,V. I. Surikov,V. M.Vasnetov,I. I. Siskin, I. E. Repin, I. I. Levitan,A. M.Korin and K. S. Petrov-Vodkin.

    Curiosities: large numbers of right-hand drive

    cars even though traffic here drives onthe right, not the left. shop signs in Russian, Japanese and

    Chinese. nearly all bars and restaurants open

    at 12 midday. nearly all culinary dishes contain

    cedar pine nuts.

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    GASTRONOMIE

    Habarovsk Dopping barBere super dry, Asahi, n japonez.Pete paltus halibut, la cuptor,cu legume i sos din carne de raci.O salmonid pe foaie de salat,cu legume la cuptor, icre roii, morcovi,conopid, sfecl, maionez, sare.Salat din inim de vit bou de fapt,fiart bine i moale, nuc, ceap roz,

    maionez, ptrunjel, semine de cedru.Conopid cu cacaval tare i srat, ras,pus la cuptor, cu smntn, piper.Burt de salmonide, cu sos, ulei i sare.O salmonid fileu uscat, cu tentaculede calamari, uscate i dulci, cu sare.Merioare uscate i dulci acrioare.n localitatea cu 300 de supraviuitoriai odicolonului Troya, Sikhaci Alian,

    am mncat colunai umplui cu carnede pete rou, ceap i mirodenii.

    GASTRONOMY

    Khabarovsk Dopping BarSuper dry beer,Asahi, Japanese.Paltus fish halibut, in the oven,with vegetables and crayfish.Salmonid fish served on lettuce leaves,with vegetables cooked in the oven,red caviar, carrots, cauliflower, beetroot,mayonnaise, salt.Salad made of well boiled heart of beef

    (in fact using ox meat), nuts, pinkonion, mayonnaise, parsley, cedar pinenuts. Cauliflower with hard and saltygrated cheese, placed in the oven, withcream and pepper. Guts of fish ofsalmonid fish, with sauce, oil and salt.Dry fillet of salmonid, with calamaritentacles, dried and sweet, with salt.Dried sweet and sour crab apples.

    In a village with 300 inhabitants(survivors of the Troya Eau deCologne), Sikac-Alian, we ate dumplingsfilled with red fish, onion and spices.

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    Vladivostok (Stpnul Orientului,n limba rus) este cel mai mare oradin Extremul Orient Rus.Istoria sa ncepe la data de 2 iulie 1860,cnd a fost construit o fortrea ngolful Zolotoy Rog Cornul de Aur.Este un important centru cultural,tiinific, un nod de transport i un port.

    Partenerii si economici principali suntJaponia, China, Coreea, S.U.A.Localitatea Nahodka, situat napropierea oraului Vladivostok, estecel mai mare port i terminal petrolierrusesc la Marea Japoniei.Aici, pescadoarele i naveleuriae ce transport crbune ori iei,acosteaz i pleac din i nspre toatlumea.Pe lng carburani, mii de tonede crabi de Kamciatka i demedvedka - rac de mare - sunttrimii spre deliciul ntregii lumi,ca rare delicatese.Regiunea Primorye, unde se afl oraulVladivostok, se poate luda cu:

    Vladivostok (Master of the East inRussian) is the largest city in RussiasFar East.The history of the city beganon 2nd July 1860 with the buildingof the fortress in the Zolotoy Rog(Golden Horn) bay.The city is an important cultural and sci-entific centre, a transport hub and a

    port. Its principal economic partnersare Japan, China, Korea and the USA.The nearby city of Nahodka is Russiaslargest port and oil terminal in the Seaof Japan.Here, fishing vessels and gigantic oiland coal tankers dock and set sail fordestinations all over the world.Besides fuel, thousands of tons ofKamchatka crabs and medvedka atype of crayfish are dispatched fromhere to be enjoyed as delicacies aroundthe world.The Primorye Region host to thecity of Vladivostok boasts thefollowing:

    CORNUL DE AUR AL STPNULUI ORIENTULUITHE GOLDEN HORN OF THE MASTER OF THE EAST

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    peste 100 de vrfuri muntoase peste 1650 de ruri peste 30 de cascade 3000 de lacuri rezervaii naturale la Sikhote Alin,

    Ussuriyskiy, Iazovskiy. populaii btinae care de care mai

    interesante i mai de greu de neles:Udeghe, Nanai,Orochi.

    Artiti de la Vladivostok:

    Alexander Arsenenko alias Serghei scenograf, cluza noastr prin ora,care a creat decorul pentruspectacolul Acarul Pun, vizionatde noi la un teatru din ora.Ivan Rybaciuk, nlat la rangul de Artistal Poporului. L-a cunoscut pe CorneliuBaba cnd acesta a fost n U.R.S.S.Alexandr Omelcenko, artist fantastic

    din Nahodka.Andrei Kamalov, disprut fizic,dar prezent cu lucrri n mai toatecoleciile cu pretenii din Vladivostok.Muzeul de Art Contemporan,ArtEtaj,situat ntr-o cldire modern, n vrful

    Over 100 mountain peaks.Over 1,650 rivers.Over 30 waterfalls. 3,000 lakes. The nature reserves of Sikhote-Alin,

    Ussuriisk and Lazovsky. Interesting native populations that are

    hard to understand: the Udeghe, Nanaisand Orochs.

    Artists from Vladivostok:

    Alexander Arsenenko, alias Sergey stage designer and our guide to the city;he created the stage design for the per-formance of The Scapegoat we saw atone of the theatres in the city.Ivan Rybachuk awarded the accoladeArtist of the People; Corneliu Baba methim while he was in the USSR.Alexander Omelchenko fantastic artist

    from Nahodka.Andrei Kamalov physically no longerwith us, but still present through hisworks, which feature in just about everyimportant collection in Vladivostok.Museum of Contemporary Art,ArtEtaj

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    unei coline, aduna laolalt lucrri de artcreate de artitii din Vladivostok.Modul de dispunere al acestora,n galeriile generoase dovedea ca acestspaiu avangardist colaboreaz cu muzeedin Europa i Asia.Muzeul Arseniev este cel mai vechimuzeu din Siberia de Est. i-a deschisporile pentru public n anul 1860,pe strada Petru cel Mare. Deinepeste 400 de mii de exponate,

    grupate n 23 de colecii.

    Curioziti:Muzeul pisicilor.Restaurantul Trattoria, chipurile cuspecific italian, dar premiat debuctari srbi.Submarinul dezafectat, transformatntr-un muzeu al gloriei militare ruse.

    Acest submarin a fost scufundat detrupele japoneze. Se pot nchiria vapo-rae pentru plimbri prin golful Vladivos-tok-ului i prin mprejurimi.

    located in a modern building built onthe top of a mound, this museum bringstogether works of art by artists fromVladivostok.This avant-garde spacecooperates with museums in Europeand Asia, as can be seen from the way inwhich the works are displayed, in spa-cious galleries.The Arseniev Museum is the oldestmuseum in Eastern Siberia. It opened tothe public in 1860 on Peter the Great

    Street. It has over 400,000 exhibitsgrouped into 23 collections.

    Curiosities:The Museum of Cats.The Trattoria, a supposed Italian restau-rant run by Serbian chefs.Decommissioned submarine trans-formed into a museum dedicated to past

    Russian military glories.This submarinewas sunk by the Japanese.Boats can be hired to explore Vladivos-tok bay and surroundings.

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    GASTRONOMIE

    VladivostokCalamar dulce - probabil fiert n apcu zahr, apoi uscat.Calcan srat i uscat.Crab oceanic de Kamciatka (mare,cu un perimetru de pn la 60 decentimetri, de culoare roie),fiert n ap srat.Rac de ap srat sau rac oceanic,

    medvedka, fiert n ap srat.Icre roii de mrimea perlelor.Pepene galben chinezesc, de plastic.Pepene rou, tot chinezesc,tot de plastic.Semine de lotus cumprate pe drumuldintre Habarovsk i Stpnul Orientului,un presupus afrodisiac.n restaurantul Shanghai din Vladivostok

    am ncercat s mncm: legume(conopid, morcovi i o alt vegetalverde neidentificabil) prost fierte,fr s fie dezgheate bine, fr gust icrude; colunai cu aluat clis, umpluicu carne de vit, foarte tare la mestecat

    GASTRONOMY

    VladivostokSweet calamari, probably boiled inwater with sugar and then dried.Salted and dried plaice.Kamchatka Crab (large, up to 60centimetres, red in colour), boiled insalted water.Saltwater crayfish or Ocean crayfish(medvedka), boiled in salted water.

    Red caviar the size of pearls.Yellow Chinese melon, tasteless.Water melon (again Chinese andagain tasteless).Lotus seeds bought on the roadbetween Khabarovsk and Vladivostok,a supposed aphrodisiac.At the Shanghai restaurant in Vladivos-tok we tried to eat: vegetables (cauli-

    flower, carrots and another unidentifi-able green vegetable) that were badlyboiled and not properly defrosted,hence tasteless and raw; semi-cookeddumplings filled with onion and beef thatwe found very tough; the only good

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    i ceap; bun a fost doar sosul de soiacu mult usturoi.

    Restaurantul PORTO FRANCO cu undecor ciudat imitnd tavernelevest-americane din secolul al XIX lea:salat de sfecl roie, cu prune uscate,nuci pisate i maionez. Foarte bunn ciuda decorului.Tot aici, am mncato salat de limb fiart de vit, cu hreani msline.n atelierul artistului Serghei: pinie din

    fin de secar, dulci, cacaval cu guri -un fel de Schweitzer, pete rou - cea maibun salmonid (era vorba de keta),salam uscat i scoici.Restaurantul Trattoria:Somon afumat cu ciuperci, copt la cuptorntr-o foaie de cacaval.Tot felul de brnzeturi i de alune,arahide cu nuci pisate.

    Traktir (ce frumos nume!)Unoie un amestec de carne de vit,ciuperci, morcov, cartofi, ceap,usturoi, ptrunjel, mrar, toate coapten sos de smntn, avnd n plus sucde roii i sare.

    thing was the soya sauce with lots ofgarlic.

    The Porto Franco restaurant has astrange dcor that imitates AmericanWestern bars of the 19th century:beetroot salad with prunes, crushed nutsand mayonnaise.Very good food despitethe dcor. Here we also ate a salad ofboiled tongue of beef with horseradishand olives.In the workshop belonging to Sergey the

    artist: sweet bread rolls made with ryeflower, cheese with holes in it (a kind ofSwiss cheese), red fish, the best salmonid(keta), dried salami and clams.The Trattoria Restaurant:Smoked salmon with mushrooms, bakedin the oven on a layer of cheese.All kinds of cheeses and nuts.The Traktir Restaurant (what a

    beautiful name!)Ushnoye a mixture of beef, mush-rooms, potatoes, onion, garlic, parsley,dill, all baked in a cream sauce and alsoaccompanied by a tomato sauce and salt.Kvas = sour liquid made from fermented

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    Kvas - bor din secar alcoolizat; se beaca berea sau se folosete la prepararea

    mncrii Okroka, ce se face din amestecde carne fiart, castravei, ou fierte,zarzavaturi tiate mrunt.Colunai umplui cu carne de vittocat, ciuperci, cacaval, smntn, sare,toate coapte n oal de lut.Restaurantul ALLEGRO:Salat de ton, afumat la rece, cu spanaci brnz Feta bulgreasc.

    Salat compus din: carne de oaie lacuptor, tiat felii, prune proaspete,castravete i sos TKEMALY un sosspecific Georgian.Pete Halibut afumat la rece, cu lmie.Berria de la chei:ALESalat FANTASY: scoici, piept de pasre,porumb fiert, ananas, ofran, maionez,leutean (ura! n sfrit am gsit!),

    chipsuri cu arom de pete.Salata Chez Hans: halibut, carne decrab, maionez - toate nvelite n crustde cacaval ras i puse la cuptor.

    rye; drunk like beer or used as a basewhen making Okroshka a mix of boiled

    meat, cucumber, boiled egg, finelychopped vegetables.Dumplings filled with minced beef, mush-rooms, cheese, cream and salt; all bakedin a clay dish.The Allegro Restaurant:Salad made of cold smoked tuna,withspinach and Feta cheese.Salad of mutton baked and sliced, fresh

    plumbs, cucumber and Tkemaly sauce aspecific Georgian sauce.Halibut, cold smoked, with lemon.The ALE beer salonFantasy salad, clams, chicken breast,boiled corn, pineapple, saffron, mayon-naise, lovage (Hurray! At last we foundit!), fish flavoured potato chips.Salad Chez Hans: halibut, crab meat,

    mayonnaise; all wrapped in a crust ofgrated cheese and oven baked.

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    Crciuma cu specific rusesc delng gara feroviar din Vladivostok

    Salat de crevei, broccoli, varz de Brux-elles, conopid, maionez, unc, salam deSibiu!!!, ton, sos de lmie, leutean.Un restaurantul cu nume italian,dar cu specific nemesc de lnggara feroviar din Vladivostok:Berea casei, nefiltrat.ngheat de vanilie (culorile steaguluiRusiei). De remarcat intarsiile de lemn de

    pe pereii restaurantului, aduse dinGermania; la fel ca i instalaia de fcutbere, aflat n spatele tejghelei.Drum Vladivostok Baikal:Friptur de porc niel, n ulei prosti mult; ciuperci prjite n ulei i inundaten el. Castravei, roii fr gust.Cacaval moale i bun. Cognac cu gustde spirt prost.

    Vin rou, sec. Bun.n sfrit ceva.

    Bar with Russian food next toVladivostok railway station

    Shrimp salad, broccoli, Brussels sprouts,cauliflower, mayonnaise, ham, dried salami,tuna, lemon sauce, lovage.A restaurant with an Italian namebut serving German specialitiesnext to Vladivostok railway station:Home-brewed non-filtered beer.Vanilla ice cream (in the colours of theRussian flag).Worthy of mention: the

    walls of restaurant are decorated withwooden inlays that were imported fromGermany, which is also true of the beerbrewing equipment located behind thecounter.Journey from Vladivostok to Baikal:Pork schnitzel cooked in large quantitiesof bad quality oil;mushrooms drowned inoil.Tasteless cucumbers and tomatoes.

    Good soft cheese. Cognac that tastedlike surgical spirit.Dry red wine.Very nice.At last something good.

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    La Sankt Petersburg e primavera.Una capricioas. La 30 aprilie am avutparte de ninsoare, urmat de ploaiei de soare.Aa se vd bine muzeelei cldirile vechi. i sunt cu sutele:Ermitaj (Palatul de Iarn), cu o coleciede tablouri i lucrri de art de peste 3milioane de exponate. Prin apropierese afl Apartamentul Memorial al luiAlexandr Pukin - locul unde poetula trit din 1836 pn la moartea sa.Tot acolo se afl Palatul Yusupov,unde a fost asasinat Rasputin.Putei vizita Grdinile de Var,Palatul Menshikov guvenator general,apropiat al lui Petru cel Mare,Muzeul Rus, situat lng CatedralaMntuirea prin Snge, care nainte

    de anii 1990 era un depozit.Catedrala Sf. Isaac, construit timp de40 de ani, dup planurile arhitectuluiA.Montferrand, ornat cu peste 300 delucrri de pictur, sculptur i mozaicuri,realizate din peste 43 de soiuri de

    In St. Petersburg its primavera, and afickle one at that. On 30th April we hadsnow, followed by rain, and then sunshine.Its good weather for visiting museumsand historic houses, of which there arehundreds.The State Hermitage (WinterPalace), with its collection of over 3 mil.paintings and art works. Close by there isthe Alexander Pushkin Museum andMemorial Apartment, where the poetlived from 1836 until his death.Also inthis area is the Yusupov Palace, the placewhere Rasputin was assassinated.You canthen visit the Summer Gardens, the Men-shikov Palace (Menshikov was a governor-general and aid to Peter the Great) andthe Russian Museum, which is next to theRedemption through Blood Cathedral,

    which was used as a warehouse prior to1990. St. Issacs Cathedral was built overa period of 40 years to the designs of thearchitect A. Montferrand and is decoratedwith over 300 paintings, sculptures andmosaics, and features over 43 different

    MLATINA TRANSFORMAT N BOMBONICMARSH LAND TRANSFORMED INTO SUBLIME BEAUTY,

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    marmur i pietre semipreioase.Pe cheiul Nevei se odihnete

    crucitorul Aurora de pe care s-a trasla data de 7 Noiembrie 1917, semnalulnceperii Revoluiei din Octombrie.Acum tace. Studeni, turiti miunn jurul lui, eliberai de povaracursurilor, deoarece n Rusia sesrbtorete ziua de 1 Mai, perioadn care noi eram acolo. mpreun cucteva studente de la secia Romn a

    Universitii din Sankt Petersburg, amvizitat Novgorodul, un ora-cetate, carea rezistat invaziei mongole din secolulalXIII-lea.Aici putei vizita casa memori-al a lui Dostoievski i conacul lui A.V.Suvorov, numit i Conte de Rmnicu Vl-cea, care a murit necat n rul mltinosRbca, din Vrancea. Bisericile i muzeledin ora expun icoane extraordinare.

    Pe zidurile bisericii Mntuirii, din stradaSf. Ilie, se desfoar frescele pictate nanul 1378 de Teofan Grecul. Privimicoanele ruseti, acoperite cu pulberi deaur i perle i ne gndim c totui nusuntem chiar att de departe de cas.

    types of marble and semi-precious stone.Harboured on the River Neva is the

    cruiser Aurora, from whose gun a shotwas fired on 7th November 1917, sig-nalling the start of the OctoberRevolution. It is silent now and studentsand tourists swarm around it enjoyingthe 1st May holiday, which coincided withour stay.Together with a few studentsfrom the Romanian faculty of the Univer-sity of St. Petersburg,we visited Nov-

    gorod, a fortress city that withstood theMongol invasions of the 18th century.Here you can visit the memorial houseof Dostoevsky and the manor house ofA.V. Suvorov, who, also known as theCount of Rmnicu Vlcea, drowned todeath in the marshy waters of the RiverRbca in Vrancea.The towns churchesand museums contain some extraordi-

    nary icons.The walls of the RedemptionChurch in St. Elijah Street reveal frescoespainted in 1378 by Teofan the Greek. Onseeing the Russian icons covered in golddust and pearls, we realise we are not,after all, so far from home.

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    Curioziti: Putei nchiria cai s clrii ziua

    sau noaptea, prin oraul Sankt Peters-burg. Putei vizita mprejurimile oraului,

    pline ochi cu palatele i reedinelecrmuitorilor de altdat: Peterhof,Pavlovsk,Tsarskoe Selo, Gatchina,Oranienbaum.n timpul nopii podurile de pe Neva

    se ridic.

    Piatra pe care este ridicat statuia luiPetru cel Mare, are o greutate deaproximativ o mie de tone. Coloana lui Alexandru I, realizat

    dup planurile arhitectului i ale sculp-torului francez A. Montferrand, cu onlime de aproximativ 47 de metri,aflat n faa Ermitajului, este sculptat(i nu asamblat) ntr-un singur stei degranit, ea stnd vertical datorit proprieigreuti; este cel mai mare monolit degranit din lume. Dup ora 22.00 nu mai putei

    cumpra vodk de la nici un magazin.

    Curiosities: Hire horses and ride day and night

    through the city of St. Petersburg. Visit the surrounding areas of the city

    which are bursting to the seams withrulers palaces and residences of timespast: Peterhof, Pavlovsk,Tsarskoe Selo,Gatchina, Oranienbaum. The bridges on the River Neva are all

    raised during the night. The stone on which the statue of

    Peter the Great is erected weighsapproximately one thousand tons. The Alexander I Column, located in

    front of the State Hermitage and builtfrom the plans of the French architectand sculptor A. Montferrand, wassculpted (not assembled) out of a singlepiece of granite, which stands uprightunder its own weight.At approximately47 meters high, this is the largest granitemonolith in the world. After 10 pm it is impossible to buy

    vodka from any shop. Dostoevsky Street is shaped like the

    letter H.

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    Strada Dostoievski are un traseu subforma literei H. Pe cheiurile Nevei, conductele aflate

    la suprafa se traverseaz cu ajutorulpodurilor cu trepte de lemn.

    The pipes running along the banks ofthe River Neva are crossed by means ofwooden footbridges.

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    GASTRONOMIE

    Sankt PetersburgSalat de calamari, cu maionez ipine neagr.O alt salat, orchestrat din: scoici,crevei, somon fiert, maionez imutar, nuci pisate, rugola, sare, piper.Somon la grtar cu cacaval,copt n oal de lut, cu ptrunjeli mrar, sare, puin lmie i piper.

    Peti cruzi, uor srai, luai la pungde pe strada Dostoievski.

    GASTRONOMY

    St. PetersburgCalamari salad with mayonnaise andblack bread.Another salad consisting of clams,shrimps, boiled salmon, mayonnaise andmustard, crushed nuts, rocket, salt andpepper.Grilled salmon with cheese baked in aclay dish with parsley and dill, salt and a

    dash of lemon and pepper.Raw fish, gently salted, bought onDostoyevsky Street.

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    O metropol imens, care nghitelacom spaiul, att orizontal,ct i vertical. Fa de zgrie-noriiimpersonali din fiecare ora ce serespect, miezul istoric al acestuia,strbtut de rul cu acelai nume,i ofer o privelite tipic ruseasc,aa cum am vzut-o n crile pentru

    copii sau privind coleciile de timbre.Rul Moscova a fost i este coloanavertebral a acestei metropole.Oraul poate fi strbtut, de la Estla Vest i invers, cu vaporaul, careplutete pe apele tulburi ale ruluicu acelai nume.Oraul a fost ntemeiat n 1147,pe o colin situat la confluenarurilor Moscova i Neglinka.La nceputurile sale, era o cetatenconjurat de un gard de lemn.A ars de nenumrate ori, pn cnd,n secolul al-XIV-lea, cneazul Dmitri

    This is an immense metropolis whichfeeds on space, both horizontally andvertically. Compared with the imper-sonal skyscrapers of any respectablecity, the historical centre of this city,crossed by the river of the samename, offers a typically Russian vista,like the one we used to get from

    childrens book or stamp collections.The Moscow River has always beenthe backbone of this metropolis andthe city can be crossed, from east towest or vice versa, by boat upon itsturbid waters.The city was founded in 1147 on ahill at the confluence of the riversMoscow and Neglinka. In the earlydays, Moscow was a fortress sur-rounded by a wooden fence. It suf-fered countless fires before, in the14th century, Prince Dimitri Donskoidecided to build a fortress of stone.

    MOSCOVA, ORAUL BOREAL AL CELOR 7 COLINEMOSCOW, THE NORTHERN CITY BUILT ON SEVEN HILLS,

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    Donskoi s-a hotrt sconstruiasc o cetate din piatr.

    Primul Kremlin - cuvnt carenseamn n limba rus cetatengrdit - din Moscova a fost clditdin piatr alb - calcar, dup caredin crmid.Kitai Gorod era de fapt un al doileagard de aprare al cetii,fcut din nuiele i lut. Se afla

    la o distan de aproximativun kilometru de actuala Pia Roiei pe vremuri nconjura Kremlinulca o grani ce separa ferm,nobilii de plebe. Al doilea ca i altreilea rnd de fortificaie nu maiexist. Metroul din Moscovaurmeaz traseul acestui ultim valde fortificaie disprut, printr-untronson care are forma unuicerc perfect, aproximativ caRing-ul vienez.Pe unul din malurile rului, vis--visde Kremlin, se afl cartierul numit