MINIATUREMACHININGTECHNIQUES

Torn Perzentka of Octura Models. Chicago. usesJig Saw to cut bulkheads and curved stringersfor the prototype of his famous gas poweredmodel R/C hydro plane "White Heat V". The JigSaw produces a smooth cut in small intricatesections of plywood and hardwood. Parts formotor and steering assembly were turned out onUnimat Lathe.

FROM BEGINNER TO EXPERT CRAFTSMANin METAL • PLASTICS • WOOD

Well known author, Brice Ward, who designs electronicprojects far national magazines, uses a Unimat tomachine printed circuit boards, drill chassis holes,and wind special coils. This multifunctional machinetakes up less space lhan the average oscilloscope, yetprovides tool roam versatility.

metal turning • drilling • milling • grinding • polishing• sharpening • sawing • surface grinding • threading •boring • wood turning • special techniques • jigs and

attachments

2nd Edition Copyright 1963

AMERICAN-EDELSTAAL, INC.360 Broadway. New York 13, N. V.

1. Unimat versatility . Page 22. Introduction & Index Page 53. How to operate the

basic equipment Page 64. Use of accessories ... . Page 175. Tips for the expert craftsman Page 336. Advanced Techniques Page 347. Measuring Tools Page 368. Parts list Page 379. Table of cutting and

drilling speeds .Page 39a general handbook and operator's manual

$ 1 . 0 0

UNIMATVERSATILITY

Typical projects show how Unimat per-forms any one of ten basic machinetool operations. Wherever creative

designers, engineers, scientists andhobbyists work with small preciseparts, Unimat is in constant use.

an aluminum wheel casting for amodel steam engine

Set up as a metal lathe Unimat turnsdiscs, wheels, and cylindrical shapesup to 3 -inch diameter. HeadstockRaising Block (DB 1310) increasesswing capacity to 4 1/2-inch diameter.Parts can be machined to accuraciesof one-half thousandth of an inchwith just a little practice. Lathe toolsare available singly or in sets. Theprecision 3-jaw chuck is AccessoryPart #1001.

DRILLINGdrilling a tiny hole in a brass spray

nozzle fitting; drill size #70,diameter only .028 inch!

Try this job in an ordinary lathe ordrill press and you'll probably breakthe drill. Precision ball bearing spin-dle gives you a true hole every time.The drill is shown chucked in theprecise Jacobs-type 1/4-inch dril lchuck that is part of every DB 200Unimat. Vertical drilling is also abasic function of Unimat.

milling slots in a live-steam modellocomotive frame

This setup shows how you can clampi r regu la r ly shaped parts on theUnimat accessory Mill ing Table (DB1210). Because the detachable head-stock can be set at any angle on thecolumn, you can handle workpieceslonger than the Unimat itself. Precisedrilling and tapping operations areeasy to run on the same setup.

MILLING

1 TURNING

2

2

3

UNIMATVERSATILITY

touching up the edge of a wood veiningtool; grinding a model boat prop to

shape; buffing silverware

The eleven-step Unimat power drivegives you just the right cutting speedfor proper abrasive and polishingaction. Try some of these jobs onlarger grinders and you may burn asmall part. The G r i n d i n g WheelArbor can be used with the headstockin lathe position provided you pro-tect the bed with cloth. Or, you canrotate the head 90° for handling largepieces easier.

a camera shop job . . . sawing replace-ment slides for sheet film holders

Try to cut thin brittle bakelite onan ordinary table saw, and bladewobble will give you a rough edgeand spoiled work. Unimat spindlebearing precision guarantees trueblade action. You can select cuttingRPM for best results. The saw tableattachment takes only seconds to setup.

JIG SAWINGcutting quarter inch masonite

for a tool shelf

The Jig Saw Attachment has a throatthat permits you to saw to the centerof a 16-inch circle. For larger workyou remove the overhead arm anduse a saber blade. Files and abrasivestrips also work well on this attach-ment. With the Unimat eleven speedpower drive, you can select the bestcombination of blade and cuttingspeed for any material from softbalsa wood to hard materials.

SHARPENINGHAND GRINDINGPOLISHING

SAWING

3

6

5

4

UNIMATVERSATILITY 7 SURFACE

a precise flat on the surface of a modellocomotive frame

A familiar operation to machinistswho make gages and instruments is sur-face grinding. With Unimat, you canget tool room precision right on thekitchen table with very little fuss. Thelocomotive part also shown under Mi l l i ngnears completion with perfectly flat mat-ing surfaces.

THREADINGcutting internal and external threadson a 1 1/2 inch aluminum lens barrel

The Unimat with Threading Attach-ment (DB 1270) is far more accuratethan ordinary lathes that use back gearsand lead screws to move the thread cut-ting bit. A master pattern mounts sol-idly on the spindle behind the chuck anda chaser duplicates the exact thread pat-tern on the workpiece. Patterns areavailable from 16 to 56 threads-per-inch .and in a complete set of metric sizes.

making a gear for a boatsteering mechanism

The Indexing and Dividing Attach-ment divides a circle into 18 integralnumbers from 2 to 48 enabling you to cutgears, machine bolt heads, pyramidshapes, truncated cones and practicallyany polygonal shape. Because Unimatadjusts vertically, horizontally, laterallywith a head that swivels in any direc-tion, there is no l i m i t to the shapes youcan create in solid metal or any machine-able material. Among the most interest-ing projects possible with this setup aremathematical models, and three dimen-sional models of molecules and crystal-line structures.

HAND DRILL

4

a 3/16-inch hole through wood and metalon a model plane fuselage

Whenever it's necessary to take thetool to the job, just loosen one nut, slipthe headstock off the dri l l press columnand you've got an 11-speed tool with thesensitive feel of a dental drill right inyour hand. And yet it will push a 1/4-inch drill through steel. You can also usethe portable hand drill with buffs, grind-i n g wheels, abrasive wheels, and sandingdiscs.

GRINDING

INDEXING9

10

8

HERE IS YOUR BASIC UNIMATBefore you start to use your Unimat be sure to read the

following instructions carefully.The basic Unimat Model DB 200 is

shipped in a wood storage chest, whichin turn is protected by a cardboard ship-ping box. As you open the storage chestcheck each item on the packing list.

DB 200 parts are identified by meansof the photos on this page. On pages 37and 38 you w i l l find a complete parts listfor the basic Unimat and all accessories.

A guarantee registration card is in-cluded with each Unimat. Be sure tomail the card immediately. The card notonly registers you as a Unimat owner,but automatically puts your name on amailing list to receive a free one yearsubscription to the Unimat Owners Mag-azine as well as supplementary literature.

Model DB 200 Unimat Basic Unit

Your Unimat has been carefullyinspected at the factory. If a part hasbeen damaged in shipment or becomesdefective during the warranty period,write to the Customer Service Depart-ment, American Edelstaal Inc. describ-ing exactly what, is wrong. Be sure torefer to parts by name and number.

If it is necessary to return a part tous you will receive a special shippingt icket and ins t ruc t ions . The repairdepartment will not accept shipmentsunless authorized as above. In most casesminor adjustments fully described in thismanual are the answer, Unimat is a pre-cise, carefully engineered machine. Takecare of it, keep it clean and well oiledand it w i l l g ive you many years ofservice.

Complete with powerful 1/10 hp motor and the following components:

1. Ribbed, Lathe Bed 8. Vertical Column Headstock Adapter 15. Spindle-feed Hand Lever2. Ball Bearing Headstock Spindle 9. Jacobs-type Drill Chuck & Key3. Carriage Assembly4. Tallslock

5. Ball Bearing Idler Pulley6. Tool Post7. Steel Vertical Column

1 0. Grinding Wheel Arbor11. Face Plate12. Lathe Dog13. Dead Centers (two)14. Slotted Adapter

16. Set of Drive Belts17. Allen Wrench1 8. Headstock Alignment Pin1 9, Roughing Tool Bit20. 40 Page Instruction Manual21 . Wood Storage Chest

INTRODUCTION

Reaming, 11Roughing, 32

Rubber backing pad, 32

Safety, 10. 32. 33 ; goggles, 36Sanding, abrasive. 32; disc, 29; cement, 29Saber saw blades, 26Sawing, circular, 27, 28; jig , 3, 26: speeds, 39:

machine, 29Scribing. 8Slow speed attachment, 24. 25, 39Speed chart, 39Spur drive center. 29, 30Steady, for wood. 30. rest, 31

Taper turning. 11Tapping. 12, taps, 33Threading, attachment, 4, 24. 25; charts. 25:

die.33: patterns, 4. 24; speeds, 39: tap. 12Tips. 38Truing instructions. 18Truing diamond. 32Tools, cutting, 8, 9: sharpening, 4, 16;Turning. 2: faceplate, 12: metal, 7: speeds, 39;

turning to size, 9: wood turning, 31-33

Watchmakers spindle, 23,Wire brushes, 31-33Wood turning, 29-33; chisels, 29-30: finishing. 30Work holding method., 14

5

INDEXAbrasives, 31, 32, 33Adjustable hand tool rest, 30Advanced techniques, 34, 35

Back-plate adaptors, 18Boring, 10Buffing, 32

Center punching. 8, centering, 8Chucks, centering, 18; collets, 23, drill, 2. 21;

3-jaw, 2, 6, 7; 4-jaw. 18; reversing jaws, 6; special,12; truing (mounting), 18

Circular saw, attachment, 27, 28: speeds, 39Collet attachment. 23, truing (mounting), 18;

collets, 23Customer service department, 5Cutting speeds, 39

Defective parts, 5Dies. 33Dividing, 21, 22, 34. 35Dressing grinding wheels, 39Drilling, ang le , 14: centering 15 deep hole. 13;

hand, 4, 16; miniature hole, 10, 14: speeds, 39;techniques, 10. 13; vertical,10, 12

Draw-bar spindle. 23

Facing, 8, 12, 18Finishing techniques (see abrasives, buffing

grinding, polishing, sanding, wood turning)Flexible shaft, 31 ( s e e buff ing, drilling, polishing,

sanding)Foot switch, 26 36Gear cutting, 4, 21,22Grinding, angle, 16; bench, 15-17; guard, 32; safety,

3 2 : speeds, 16. 39: surface, 4 16 tool 16Guarantee. 33

Headstock, alignment, 10 maintenance. 33raising block. 2, 28-30

Indexing, 4. 20-22

Jaws, reversing chuck jaws, 6Jig saw attachment, 8 26: speeds, 39Machine, adjustments, 8 9; vise, 19 29Maintenance, bed-ways. 9, 15; lathe parts, 33;

l ive center, 30; spindle, 33Mandrels. 11 turning. 11Measuring accessories, 36Milling 2. 10, 20 speeds 39; table, 2, 19, 20Motor speeds.39,

Parts, replacement list. 37, 38Polishing a r b o r , 3, 32; preparations, 32. (see

abrasives, buff ing)Pulley setups, 30Power feed attachment, 17

BASICUNIMAT

SETTING UP YOUR LATHEREAD THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO GET BEST RESULTS

AND TO AVOID DAMAGING YOUR MACHINE!

Working metal parts of the Unimatare protected in shipment with a coat-ing of rust-resistant grease. Wipe offwi th a cloth dipped in kerosene or ben-zene. Then lightly oil the lathe bed,cross slide and all exposed metal sur-faces to prevent rust. Number 10 motoroil or any light grade machine oil willdo the job.

Though you can use the Unimat as is,you'll find it helpful to screw the beddown to a perfectly flat board. A pieceof 11 x 18 inch plywood, 3/4 or 1 inchthick makes a good working base. Theboard shown in the photo was made ofa piece of scrap Formica counter top, amaterial available at most lumber yards.The white color makes small parts easyto see and the grease resistant surfaceis easy to clean. A complete UnimatWorkcenter ( DB 1400 ) is available aslisted on the back cover.

Before you plug in the motor, checkthe idler pulley. It should spin freely.Make sure the protective grease hasn'thardened around the ball bearings, andthat the clamping screw is not too tight.This screw should be just snug enoughto keep the assembly from slipping out.Put too much tension on this screwand it will distort the ball bearing raceand prevent the pulley from turningproperly.

The headstock pulley must clear themotor bracket. If the cap screw on thebracket loosens, the spindle spring willpush the motor bracket up against thepulley causing the spindle to stall. Usea folded piece of cardpaper (about .015"thick) between the pulley and motorbracket to set the spacing and thenlighten the cap screws.

LATHEThere are two lathe chucks available

for your UNIMAT: #1001. 3-jaw Uni-versal, and #1001a, 4-Jaw Independentchuck. Both accessory chucks must be'trued' to the lathe spindle to make themrun dead accurate. Before using, machinechuck backplate as described on page 18under "Truing Instructions".

Carefully unwrap and clean thechuck. It is protected in shipment witha preservative which must be removedwith solvent — kerosene, gasolene, orlighter fluid will do. Loosen the jaws byrotating the outside knurled ring coun-terclockwise looking at the face of thechuck.

As each jaw disengages from thescroll, it can be removed. The first jawto release will be #3, next #2, and then#1.

3 JAW CHUCKDB 1001 UNIVERSAL LATHE CHUCK CENTERS ROUNDSHANK TOOLS AND WORKPIECES FROM .118" TO 2-1 /64"

Clean jaws and threads. Then oil witha light film of #10 motor oil or equiva-lent. To reassemble the chuck jaws innormal position, rotate the ring untilthe scroll 'ring' appears at a point justbefore slot # 1. Engage jaw # 1 by press-ing inward gently. Continue turning thering until it is next to slot #2. Installjaw #2, and then repeat for jaw #3

Several types of motors are illustratedin this manual. The motor supplied withyour Unimat is a high torque quietoperating 1/10th HP 110 volt 60 cyclemotor. Motor designs are subject to im-provement, and the motor deliveredwith your unit may have a slightly dif-ferent appearance. If your motor heatsafter running continuously for 5 to 10minutes, this does not mean it is defec-tive. Your motor is fully enclosed toprotect it from chips and dust and be-cause a lot of power is packed in asmall case, there is heat build-up, whichhas been provided for in the design.

Unimat spindle ball bearings are fac-tory pre-lubricated and will need noadditional attention for the first 300hours of use. After this time, follow in-structions on page 33 for disassembly ofthe spindle and lubrication.

6E Tightening chuck jaws.

When chucks are new they require alight inward pressure to insure thatthey properly engage the scroll.

In normal position, the chuck jawswill take round work up to 15/16" onthe inside. Or using the backs of thejaws on tubing, etc., you can handle upto a 2-5/32" diameter. By reversing thejaws, larger work can be machined upto 2-15/64" diameter. To reverse jaws,remove as explained before, but reverseeach jaw and replace in the chuck inthis order: jaw #3 in slot #1; jaw #2in slot #2; and jaw #1 in slot #3.6

6F Loosening chuck jaws.

LATHE cont'dThe 3-jaw chuck fits both the head-

stock and the Unimat tailstock, afterthe lathe centers have been pulled out ofthe spindles. The chuck also fits theslotted screw for mounting on the crossslide. It can thus be used to hold roundstock for drilling as shown in photo 13Band 13C.

Use a small piece of tubing to prac-tice handling the chuck as in photos 6Eand 6F. To tighten the jaws on thework, press bars together. To loosen thejaws grip the bars exerting gentle pres-sure until the workpiece is free.

METALTURNINGTECHNIQUE

practice because it's free-cutting, andwon't dull your tools if you haven't.made just the right set-up. You can geta piece of 3/4-inch round bar stock atmost hobby or hardware stores, or ifthere is a screw machine shop in yourneighborhood, you may be able to obtainscrap cutoffs for the asking.

Clamp the bar in a vise and use ahacksaw to cut off a piece about 11/2inches long. Saw the end as straight aspossible and then mount it (Photo 7A )in the 3-jaw chuck. If you have alreadytried converting your Unimat to otherpositions, insert the alignment pin inthe headstock. This pin locates theheadstock approximately on center. Youmay have to loosen the tapered clamp-ing screw (Photo 7C) and move theheadstock slightly until the pin seats inits hole.

Next mount the roughing tool bit inthe tool post. One Allen wrench fitsevery locking screw on the Unimat. Putthe center in the tailstock, and use it asa gauge to check the center height ofthe roughing tool cutting edge (Photo 7B).

For perfect cutting, the sharp point ofany lathe tool should be on dead cen-ter, or just a few thousandths beneathcenter. If a lathe tool is clamped abovecenter, it will cut poorly or not at allbecause the edge will not contact thework properly. If the tool is too low, itwill tend to dig in and cut unevenly.Use metal shims or cardboard to bringthe tool up to the right working height

BASICUNIMAT

DB 1001 3 JAW CHUCK CAPACITIES

JAWS NORMAL

JAWS REVERSED

Decimal Nearest InchSetup inches fraction Millimeters

A.(Ext.) .039-. 945" 3/64-15/16" 1-24mmB.(lnt.) .709-1.535" 45/64-1-17/32" 18-39mmC.(lnt.) 1.338-2.165" 1-21/64- 2-5/32" 34-55mm

Note: Capacities are greater when Raising Block (DB 1310) is used, and whenChuck is mounted on cross slide or on vertical set-up.' Indicates outside diameter of workpiece. Note that this is not intended forlathe machining, but may be useful in polishing O.D. of tubing, indexing, etc.(Ext.) indicate* external gripping of O.D. (outside diameter) of workpiece.(Int.) indicates internal gripping of I.D. (inside bore dia.) of workpiece

JAWS REVERSED

Now set the belts on position 11 (seespeed chart on inside back cover. Feedthe large belt from the outside (largest)pulley on the motor over to the largeheadstock pulley. This will give you aspeed of about 1700 RP.M.

7B. Set tool bitheight with tail center.

Tighten the headstock Allen screwson top, to lock the spindle in place. Re-volve the spindle by hand to make sureit turns freely and that the belt isproperly lined up. Then turn the feedscrews to bring the tool over into posi-tion, and switch power on ALWAYSFEED ANY METAL TOOL SLOWLYAS YOU APPROACH THE WORK.As the point of the tool bites in. itshould cut a smooth even chip. If youfeed too hard, you will notice that the.spindle may slow down while you arecutting. Practice making smooth evencuts. As you go in toward the center,you will be able to feed faster, since lessmetal is removed when the diameterdecreases. Too much pressure may occa-sionally cause the spindle and the motorto stall. This will not damage theUnimat as long as you are working withsoft metal and small work pieces, how-ever the experienced machinist developsa feel for the material and the lathe andseldom jams the tool. If it happens, im-mediately switch off the power and backoff the tool.

7A, Avoid overfeedingtool bit.

Now, you will want to try the otherspindle speeds. The chart on the insideback cover shows you how the basicUnimat can be set up for any one of 11different speeds. As long as you practisewith soft metal, there will be littledanger of damaging your roughing bit,but if you notice that the cuttings aresmoking and that the tool is getting hot,your speed is too fast. The remedy is touse water, paraffin, or kerosene as acoolant.

7C. Allen wrenchloosens headstock 7

JAWS NORMAL

D. (Ext.) .945-1.653" 15/16-1-41/64" 24-42mmE, (Ext.) 1.575-2.244" 1-9/16-2-15/64" 40-57mmF,(lnt.)' 2.20-3.0"' 2-13/64-3"' 56-76mm*

Before you start to do any seriousprecision work, it's best to get ac-quainted with the Unimat lathe by tak-ing a few practice cuts on scrap alumi-num. This metal is the best choice for

BASICUNIMAT

cont'dhow to choose the right tool bit —center turning, roughing, facing,and machine adjustments...

If you are an experienced machinist,you will already know how to use the 6kinds of lathe tool bits supplied in theDB 1100 set. However, we suggest thatall Unimat owners, beginners and ex-perts alike run through the followingpractice cuts. You'll f ind the skill gainedwill save time later on.

Start by cutting another piece of 3/4or 1/2-inch scrap aluminum bar stockdown to about 5 inches in length. Theeasiest way to locate centers in the baris by means of a combination square. ForUnimat miniature work, we recommendthat you purchase a 4-inch junior sizedcombination square. Blades are 5/8-inchwide. The instrument is considerablysmaller t h a n the usual machinist 'ssquare and that makes it easier to holdon small work and thus somewhat moreaccurate.

8A Junior combination square (4 inch).

Clamp the bar in a vise and use thesquare to check the end of the bar. If theend has been sawed at a slight angle, youmay need to true it with a hand file.

SB Scribing work center.

Now use the combination square cen-ter head to mark two intersecting lineson each end of the bar. The scribershown in the photo is supplied with thecombination set. Though you can markthe bare metal, you can save time andavoid errors by coating the metal withmachinist's blueing lacquer. Quick dry-ing model lacquers and enamels w i l l alsoserve the purpose if you thin the liquid

8D Drilling work center on lathe. Feed slowly and oil tailstock center frequently.

for better brushing. Before you mark,be sure that there are no burrs on theO.D. of the bar. Even a jeweler's hack-saw will leave high spots on the cut.

Next punch the center with one sharpblow of a small hammer. If the centerpunch is sharp, you will be able to findthe center by "feeling" the point intothe scribed marks. Mount the Jacobs-

8C Center punching .

type drill chuck on the headstock, andput the lathe center in the tailstock. Sup-port the work with one hand and l ine upthe bar between the drill and center .

With the pulleys set at one of thelower speeds gently feed the tailstockuntil the edges of the drill almost but notquite reach the work piece. This point isvery important. Too deep a center holecan cause inaccuracy. Repeat the opera-tion on the other end of the bar.

For a practice cut, mount the bar onthe lathe with the 3-jaw lathe chuck inthe headstock and the lathe center inthe tailstock. The triangular shapedroughing tool (included with the BasicUnit) is usually the most used tool bitof all six standard varieties. Oil the tail-stock center with light machine oil. Withbelts set for the proper R.P.M., make thecut shown in photo 8F. As you feed thetool back and forth, you may notice acertain vibration. There are two tension

locks on the Unimat carriage (Photos9B and 9C) . These socket head screwscan be tightened partially for increasingthe tension on the feeds for greater accu-racy, or can be used to lock the carriageat any desired position.

8E Left to right: left-hand finishing tool(DB 1103); roughing tool (DB 1101);right-hand finishing tool (DB 1102),- bor-ing bar (DB 1105); parting off tool (DB11O4); and inside thread cutting bit(DB 1106).

Next set up the left hand finishingtool in the tool holder as in Photo 9D.You wi l l notice that the cutting edgesare ground at less than a right angle toone another. This angle not only providesa chip clearance, but also makes it pos-sible to face a perfectly square cornerin the cut shown. One easy way to set

8F Use a small oil can or eye dropper tolubricate centers during turning.

the tool at the proper angle to the workis to run i t over the 3-jaw chuck andsplit the difference between the axes ofthe Unimat bed and cross feed.

LATHE

8

9A Use DB 1101 roughing tool bit for faststock removal.

Finish the other side of the cut withthe right-hand finishing bit (DB 1102).While both f inishing tools will cut in-ward from the end of the tool as well as

9B Carriage lock tensions feed or freezesmovement for facing cut-

laterally, this is not recommended. Theproper tool for "digging" into a bar isthe roughing tool, and the f inishing toolsshould bo saved for final facing cuts.

If you have never worked before witha really precise lathe, running the Uni-mat can be an amazing experience. Smallwork of the type shown in Photo 9F

9C Use cross slide lock for turning longshafts and bars,

takes shape in seconds. If you keep toolsproperly centered, sharp, and ground atthe proper angles, you'll often find thatthe lathe tools produce work that looksas though it had been polished.

TURNING TO SIZEAll of the threads on Unimat, parts

are metric. The long leadscrew whichcontrols movement of the carriage fromone end of the lathe bed to the other, andthe cross slide screw are both 8 x 1 m i l l i -meter threads. This means that, if youturn the hand wheels one complete revo-lution, you get a feed of exactly 1 milli-

LATHE cont'd

BASICUNIMAT

precision reaming, mandrel turning taperturning and lathe threading...

9D Right-hand finishing bit (DB 1102) turnsdiameter and shoulder of cut.

9E left-hand finishing tool (DB 1103)feeds toward tailstock .

9FThe smaller the diameter, thehigher the RPM.

This aluminum model partwas finish cut at 2,000 RPM.

meter. The handwheel is further dividedinto 20 marks corresponding to a feedof .05 mm per mark.

Though most camera, optical andinstrument parts are setup with metricsystem threads, you may prefer to workin inches. One millimeter equals .03937inch. For all but the most exactingwork, you can round off this decimal to.04". the amount of feed in one turn ofthe handwheel. In inches, each smallmark is a feed of .002". It is important toremember that when you are cuttingacross the lathe bed, that you reduceboth sides of the workpiece at once.Thus, turning one calibration actuallyremoves double the feed, .004"; a com-plete turn of the handwheel, .08".

FEED ADJUSTMENTSOn most lathes, there is some backlash

in the feed screws. In other words, thescrew will turn slightly before the toolstarts moving. To adjust this play, loosenthe nut that holds the handwheel, adjustthe wheel, and retighten the nut.

Too much tension on the feed wheelswill give you a stiff slow working feed:too little tension can cause tool chatter.

A loose feed is better for fast workingin soft metals, wood and plastic, butyou need a light feed whenever you cutcast iron, brass or steel. Practice willshow you that the best, setup for anygiven material is a combination adjust-ment, of the handwheel and carriage orcross slide tension screws. The smallerthe work diameter, the "tighter" thelathe should he.

It is very important to keep the feedscrews clean and well lubricated withlight machine o i l . As chips accumulate,remove immediately with a small paintbrush or use an ear syringe to blowthem off. If you are working in brass orcast iron, metals that produce powderysmall chips, you can protect the lathebed and feed screws by covering withpieces of household aluminum wrappingfoil . Whenever chips gather on the feedscrews do not turn the handwheels sincethis can damage the threads. The easiestway to clean the threads is to place theUnimat in a shallow tray (a cookie bak-ing tin will do nicely) and flush thechips loose with kerosene fed from anoil can.

9

BASICUNIMAT

LATHE cont'dheadstock alignment, precision drillingand boring on the lathe...

HEADSTOCK SPINDLEALIGNMENT

So far, the photos have shown Unimatcutting operations where only roughalignment, of the spindle was needed. Atthe factory, Unimat headstocks and tail-stocks are mounted on the bed, and thenbored in one operation. An alignment pinfeeds through the lip on the front of theheadstock casting down into the lathebed. It gives you a quick way to centerthe headstock when setting up roughcuts, installing attachments, etc. How-ever it is accurate to only about one de-gree of are.

Precise small work requires that thelathe run dead true. To make this setup,loosen the tapered bed clamping screw

10A Centering headstock spindle.

(see Photo 7B) and remove alignmentpin. Never force any parts of the ma-chine. Sometimes, if your Unimat isstored in a cold or dry place, and not usedfor months, tight fitting parts may stickin place. Use a penetrant such as "LiquidWrench", a solvent available in smallcans at hardware stores, and follow upwith light oil.

10B Razor blade checks alignment.

Now insert the feed pinion handleverin the headstock and move the headstockspindle as far as it will go to the right.Lock in place with the headstock capscrews. Move the cross slide, either allthe way left unt i l it almost touches the

headstock, or far to the right out of theway. Then clean the tailstock bore withkerosene and cloth, and insert for center-ing.

Next move the tailstock over, lock it tothe bed and gently feed it into the head-stock spindle as in Photo 10A. As you dothis, be sure that there are no chips orcuttings between head and tailstockcastings and bed, or on any parts in-volved. As the dead center mates withthe headstock spindle, it will line up theheadstock to dead accuracy. Tighten thebed tapered clamping screw, but do notuse the aligning pin.

One quick way to check alignment isto use a razor blade as in Photo 10B. Ifthe blade will hang vertically to the bedaxis between the two dead centers, yourheadstock is perfectly aligned. If youfind that there is error, you may need toloosen the tapered bed screw slightly andtap on one corner of the headstock cast-ing—(use a wood block or soft rubbermallet) to bring the center into align-ment.

PRECISION DRILLINGON THE LATHE

For ordinary rough work, you can drillholes in workpieces held in the 3-jawlathe chuck even though the headstockspindle is not perfectly aligned. Therewill be no trouble with drills down to1/32". However, if you want to dri l l per-fectly true deep holes, you'll find if thespindle has not been aligned, that the

10C Drilling size 80 hole.

dri l l may produce a slightly conical hole,or the workpiece may even break drill.

With the headstock properly aligned,and chucks and bed cleaned and oiled,you should have no difficulty in d r i l l i n g(Photo 10C) as small as an 80 size drill

(.0135"). This type of work is impossibleon most; lathes w i t h o u t , special tools.Whenever d r i l l i ng below 1/32-inch, re-member that it is easy to overfeed thedrill. Small drills will tend to bend out ofline slightly while they are making thehole, causing inaccurate bore. It is agood idea to watch the work with a largemagnifying glass mounted over thelathe.

10D Boring tool mounts perpendicularto work piece.

PRECISION LATHE BORINGPurpose of the boring bar (DB 1105)

is to turn internal holes. The end of theboring tool is ground at an angle similarto that on the side of the facing tools.Drill the workpiece out to 1/4 or 5/16-inch. Then set the boring bar in the toolholder, centering the edge as with theother lathe tools. Be sure to mount thetool in the holder parallel to the latheways. Do not try to cut all the way in onepass. Because chips tend to gather in theworkpiece, it is necessary to run boringcuts slower and at lighter feeds than forexternal work.

As the bore approaches the desireddiameter measure with vernier calipers,or by checking against a fitting part.

As an example, let's say that the boredring in Photo 10D is a bearing that hasto fit smoothly on a rotating shaft. As wemake successive cuts, we can measurewith various types of machinist'sgauges. But these gauges are costly andyou may not have one in the exact sizedesired.

The easiest method is to machine theshaft first. Make it about one-half inchlonger than finished size, and turn off theextra material for use as a diametergauge.

Use a fine jewelers file or garnet paperand finishing cloth to polish down oneend of your plug so it measures about1/1000" less than the desired shaft dia-meter. Then as you bore the finish holein the bearing, use this plug to check theinside diameter. Mark the plug gaugeand save for future use. A set of suchdiameter gauges can be made up as yougo along and will have many uses in theUnimat shop.

When boring large holes with the 3-jaw chuck, it is important to improvisea stop on the bed to prevent the tool fromcutting into the chuck itself. You canclamp a wood block on the bed, or makebed stops by sawing a ring like the oneshown in Photo 10D in half. It is also agood idea to chamfer the end of theworkpiece facing the chuck, to avoid hav-ing to bore all the way through.

10

LATHE

BASICUNIMAT

cont'd

precision reaming, mandrel turning.taperturning and lathe threading...

11A Tap handle holds reamer. Use tailstockcenter to guide look Same setup is

used for precision tapping.

PRECISION REAMINGThough the Unimat runs more accu-

rately than most common lathes, twistdrills wi l l generally not cut dead accur-ate. Boring tools below 1/4-inch are notsatisfactory on deep holes because thetool may tend to bend against the work-piece. Reaming is a standard techniqueto use whenever you want small holesaccurate to l/1000-inch.

Just l ike drills, reamers are availablein fract ional , number, letter and metricsizes. The reamer is a stiff fluted tool andshould never be used to remove morethan a few thousandths stock. To makethe precise-fitting camera post (Photo11A) the workpiece was first turneddown to diameter and then drilled onesize under that of the reamer.

The reamer should not be driven bythe drill chuck in the tailstock, since thiscan cause inaccuracy. Instead hold thereamer in a tap wrench. The back end ofmost reamers has a center hole. Engagethis on the tailstock center, and eitherwith the work rotating at very low speed,or turning the headstock spindle pulleyby hand, slowly feed the reamer into thehole. Never force a reamer. Use plentyof lubricant and on deep holes, removethe reamer frequently and clean thechips. Never turn a reamer backward inthe work since this can dull the cuttingedges,

MANDREL TURNINGMany kinds of work are difficult to

mount in the regular chucks. An exampleis a three step pulley. Photo 11B. Theworkpiece is mounted between centerson a special hardened dead straight barcalled a mandrel. Mandrels are availablethrough machinist 's supply houses andare made by dri l l manufacturers. Oneend of the mandrel is slightly smallerthan the rated diameter, while the otherend is larger.

Thus to turn the pulley, your first stepla to rough turn the stock to approxi-mate diameter and length in the 3-jawchuck. Then center dr i l l one size beneaththe required shaft diameter. Next theworkpiece is reamed, in this example

wiih a 1/4-inch reamer. The smaller endof the 1/4-inch mandrel is inserted inthe hole and the work tightened by tap-ping the other end of the mandrel with asoft mallet until the work locks on theshaft.

Both ends of the mandrel have hard-ened centers. It mounts between lathe

11B Turning pulley on mandrel .

centers with the faceplate driving thelathe dog. As the work revolves you mayfind that you want to use scrap electricalwire to tie the lathe dog solidly to onefaceplate slot, to prevent vibration in thecut. Be sure to oil the tailstock centerevery few moments as the machine runs.The tailstock should not be set so tightlythat the center overheats. If much ofthis kind of work is done, you will needa DB 1220(a) ball bearing center.

TAPER TURNINGA taper is a cone-shaped cut on a

workpiece. Taper-cut pins, shafts, andfittings are widely used in instrumentsand on machine tools because a taperedrod docs not wear into a hole to cause in-accuracy. Taper pins, for example, tendto seat in their sockets with a wedgingaction that self corrects for wear.

On most lathes, you cut a taper byoffsetting the tailstock. On the Unimat.it is done by operating the headstock atan angle away from dead center. Tomachine a tapered bar or pin. punch theends of your work and mount betweencenters. If the headstock is angled to-ward the rear of the lathe, the taperwil l cut smaller at the tailstock end. Ifthe headstock is angled toward thelathe front, the taper will cut small atthe left.

To establish the taper angle, you willneed a test bar. This bar will have manyother uses later on. Select a perfect pieceof free-machining steel about 3/8-inchdiameter. Cut it exactly 5 inches long,true the ends and mark the centers.Punch carefully. Align the lathe centersperfectly and use the roughing tool tocut the bar down to about .260". Thenuse the left hand finishing tool to turnthe bar down to an exact 1/4-inch diam-eter. If your lathe was properly setup,the diameter should check exactly at .25"from one end to the other.

Now to set up a typical taper cut. Let'ssay that we want to machine some barsthat have a taper of 1/4" per foot. This isequal to a taper of .1042 per the 5-inchlength of our test bar. Place the test barbetween centers and adjust the head-stock angle until you can read a differ-ence of .104 between the bar and the tipof a tool mounted exactly on center inthe tool holder. Use shim stock (or a dialgauge mounted in the tool holder) andcheck at each end of the bar.

Some inaccuracy may be introducedwhen the centers drive the work at anangle. Therefore make a trial cut onanother 5-inch bar. Exact diameter isnot required since the taper per footratio will remain the same. Use a micro-meter at each end to measure the dia-meters. Difference is the taper. A slightadjustment of the headstock may berequired.

Tapers can also be bored in shortworkpieces held in the 3-jaw chuck. Ifyou plan to do considerable taper turn-ing, it would be best to make a protrac-tor bar which can be chucked in thetailstock for checking headstock offsetagainst the faceplate.

LATHE THREADINGThere are three ways of cu t t ing

threads on the basic Unimat: with taps,dies, or the Thread Chasing Attach-

ment ( D B 1270). To c u t i n t e r n a lthreads, you first must prepare the rightsize hole for the thread desired.

11

BASICUNIMAT LATHE cont'd

die threading, making specialchucks,See a drill rnanulacturers chart of drillsizes. For example, the standard camerasocket thread is 1/4-inch diameter by 20threads-per-inch. For this thread, drillyour workpiece with a # 7 d r i l l . Then withthe lathe properly a l i g n e d , drive the taplike the reamer (Photo 11B), and slowlyfeed the tap into the work by hand.Often, it will be convenient to start thetapping in the lathe and then finish thethread with the workpiece held in a vise.

External threads are cut with athreading die (Photo 12A). It is helpful

12A Use plenty of cutting oil whenthreading with a die.

to start, the die against, the work by tem-porarily placing the faceplate on the tail-stock. This guarantees a straight feed.Do not use power. Gently turn the workby hand feeding plenty of oil to the die.If the tension on the die increases, backoff, brush chips away and repeat.

FACEPLATE TURNINGThe Unimat faceplate has three slots

which fit the standard cap screws usedon the machine. Flat work up to the fu l lswing of the lathe can be screwed direct-ly to the faceplate. Extra holes can bedrilled in the faceplate to clamp oddshaped workpieces that will not fit intothe regular chucks. If you mount suchwork off center, be sure to balance thefaceplate with additional bolts if cuts areto be made at high speed. For specialsetups, extra faceplates are available,(DB 64).

SPECIAL CHUCKS ANDSPINDLE FITTINGS

Some k inds of work cannot be heldsatisfactorily in any ordinary way. Thechuck shown in (Photo 12B) was made tohold 1/2-inch round balls for center drill-ing. To make the chuck, a piece of 1 1/4-inch round steel bar stock was cut to1 1/2-inch length, and mounted in the3-jaw chuck. Next it was center drilled

12B Ball chuck doubles as handytailstock drill pad.

and bored to about 3/8-inch diameterand then drilled with a 13/32-inch drill.This produced a good fit when threadedwith the Unimat TM 12 headstock tap( 12mm dia. x 1mm pitch ). The back endof the thread was cleared to fit the head-stock spindle, and the front end bored ona slight taper to fit the balls. During thedrilling the balls were held in place witha few drops of sealing wax.

This example illustrates how you canmake chucks to fit any kind of specialpart. Such chucks can also be threadedto hold screws during machining opera-tions. The chuck does double duty as ahandy tailstock plate for drilling onthe lathe. (Photo 12B)

DRILL PRESSsetting up your drill press

The changeover from lathe to verticaldrill press can be accomplished in lessthan a minute. Remove the tapered screwwhich holds the headstock to the lathebed. Pull out the headstock alignmentpin and lift out the complete headstockunit. Substitute the dri l l press column,replacing and tightening the taperedscrew. Note that this is a one-way fit.

Next remove the tapered screw in theadapter on the vertical column and useit to mount the headstock. Place the face-plate on the spindle and with the head-stock tapered screw partially tightened,lower the assembly until it touches thetop of the cross slide as in Photo 12D.Now tighten the headstock tapered screwand your drill press is vertically alignedready to use. (Etch a mark in both cast-ings for ready reference).

A slotted screw threaded to fit chucksand faceplate is supplied with the basicUnimat. Use the screw (Photo 1 3 A ) to

12C Ball chuck and TM 12 Unimatspindle thread lap.

mount the faceplate to the cross slide.Be sure the surface of the. cross slide isfree of chips and you'll get a perfectlyvertical hole every time. Adjust the crossslide so the hole in the center of the face-plate is beneath the drill.

When drilling in metal, use a startingdrill or center drill such as DB 1135(supplied as part of DB 1130 Tool Box)after you center punch the workpiece.This type of drill is more rigid than aplain drill point and guarantees moreperfect centering of the hole. Centerdrills should be used at slow speed, withplenty of lubricant.

A footswitch makes drilling of un-clamped work a lot easier. Heavy-dutysewing machine motor footswitches canbe used, or you can improvise your ownby using an automobile floor switchmounted on a suitable piece of wood.

The Unimat handlever pinion give youa vertical movement of about 5/8-inch,

12D Simple setup quickly alignsvertical drill press.

enough for most kinds of precision mod-el work. If you need more movement, youcan remove the spindle return spring,increasing spindle movement to 1 inch.

Two basic kinds of dri l ls are avail-able: carbon and high speed steel. Theless expensive carbon drills are intendedfor work in wood, plastics and soft met-als, while the high speed drills are hard-er and will handle work in cast iron and

12

steel. Drills are sold in sets and singly.Sets are offered in fractional inch sizes,numbered wire sizes from 1 to 60. and61 to 80, in letter and metric sizes. Usu-ally sets of drills are supplied in drillcases with accurately sized holes thatenable the user to keep the bits in order.

Drills commonly sold by hardwarestores and tool supply houses are calledjobbers length s traight-shank twistdrills. It is suggested that the Unimatowner order shorter length drill called"short set" or screw machine drills (DB1140). Only about half as long as theregular jobbers length drills, this lengthgives you more tip rigidity and offersconvenience in working. It's a good ideato contact the local office of the largerdrill manufacturers. Request their latestcatalog. Also, excellent manuals on drill-ing are usually given away free to drillusers. Charts included give you completeinformation on all drill and tap sizes,cutting speeds, and decimal equivalents.

The correct speed for d r i l l ing is givenby the formula: S.P.M. = .26 x R.P.M. xdrill diameter in inches. S.F.M. refersto surface feet per minute, or the cuttingrate of the drill tips against the work.Typical recommended S.F.M. rates forhigh speed steel drills are as follows:

alloy or stainless steel 20- 40mild machinery steel 80-110medium hard cast iron 70-100brass and aluminum 200-300bakelite 100-150wood 300-400If you use carbon steel drills, reduce

cutting speeds by one-half.

DRILLPRESS cont'd

BASICUNIMAT

13A Faceplatedoubles asdrill press

table.

13B 3-jaw chuck grips flywheelduring drilling.

PROPER DRILLING TECHNIQUEIf a drill dulls rapidly at the edges or

splits up the web, it usually means yourspeed was too high. Use a lubricant inall metals except cast iron. Chips shouldnot be long and coiled since this tends toclog the point. A common mistake is toregard drilling as the easiest operation.The tendency is to rush through drill-ing jobs overfeeding the point and caus-ing inaccurate holes and dulled cuttingedges. Properly used, a quali ty high-speed drill should last for hundreds ofholes in anything but the hardest metals.

Sometimes the heat of a drill workingin steel will "work harden" the hole. Thedrill will stop cutting and dull rapidly ifallowed to run in the hole. The only wayto avoid this trouble is to use turpentine,or water soluble oil when cutting hardsteel.

drilling technique, types of drills,drilling speeds, miniature work..

Soft materials are drilled at higherspeeds and so the tendency is to overheatthe work often enlarging the hole. Whenyou drill soft plastics, cut your speedand bring the tool in and out as quicklyas possible in avoid melting the materialwith drill heat.

Drilling sheet metal is often a problemsince the pressure of the point tends todistort the metal downward. Also, asthe drill breaks through, i t may grab onthe work and break, or the workpiece canbe pulled out of the hands with consider-able danger. ALWAYS CLAMP SHEETMETAL WORK SOLIDLY TO THEDRILL TABLE. Also, sheet, metal workshould always be backed with a piece ofhardwood or Masonite.

DEEP HOLE DRILLINGModel work often requires holes deep-

er than 5 times the drill diameter. Thisis called deep-hole drilling and requiresspecial technique. Ordinarily the drill

13C Drilling with tiny #75 sizedrill bit.

flutes will pull the chips upward outof the hole, but when the hole is unusu-ally deep, chips will tend to fall back inand clog the tip. The. remedy is to useample lubricant which wi l l help float thechips out. Abo back the drill out of thehole frequently during dri l l ing. Especi-ally in cast iron, a drill will tend to over-heat in deep holes.

BASICUNIMAT DRILL PRESS

miniature hole drilling, drill sharpening,angle drilling...

Space age miniaturization requiresnew shop technique that just a fewyears ago were practiced only by den-tists, jewelers, and instrument makers.In the ordinary machine shop a size 60drill is considered a limit in smallness.Until the introduction of the Unimat,smaller d r i l l i ng could be handled only onvery expensive special machines.

Practically all work with small drillsbelow size 60 (.040-inch) should behandled like deep hole drilling. In pro-portion to i t s larger brothers, the minia-ture drill is very long. The ratio oflength to diameter can be as much as 40to 65 times, and yet the tiny drill mustproduce a hole in most jobs that is alsoproportionately many times deeper.Therefore a jeweler's touch is requiredor drill breakage is certain.

If a mechanic's stethoscope, or any kindof electronic amplifier is handy, use it,to listen to the sound of the tip cuttinginto the metal. Back the drill out fre-quently and use the cutting lubricantand an air hose or handy syringe to flushout chips.

Always feed slowly, and if the d r i l ltip dulls the least bit, immediately stopwork and touch up the cutting edgesusing fine garnet paper under a magni-fying glass. Using th i s t echnique , #75size holes, only .021-inch diameter.wererun through steel bars 3/8-inch thick.The standard DB 1005 Unimat drillchuck is capable of extreme precision,but it is important that you avoid keep-ing the chuck tightened on a dri l l over-night or for long periods of time. Thiscan gradually distort the chuck jaws.

in place. Some workpieces can be heldfor drilling in the Unimat tool holder.Larger workpieces are best, supportedon a work table (Photo 14A) that youcan make of plywood or a piece of metal.Such a table supports a 4-inch lens boardfor drilling with a f l y cutter (Photo14B). Or you can use a pair of steel orplastic bars to support work such as themeter (Photo 14C) for dril l ing andcountersinking. Bore a hole in the sur-face of the table and you can improvisea rotary sander (Photo 15A) for perfectedging of wood, plastic and metal. Clampa fence to the table, and you can sandto any accurate width desired. In thesame way, you can use your Unimat drillpress to rout or carve.

Angle d r i l l i n g (Photo 15B) is accom-plished simply by loosening the head-stock tapered clamping screw and set-t ing the spindle axis against a protrac-tor. Before dr i l l ing, chuck a test bar ordrill blank and check against the work.Both the Unimat and the work shouldbe securely clamped or screwed to thebench to prevent a spoiled hole. Photo15D shows a method of clamping theUnimat dri l l press to a large workpiece.Steel bars, 1/4 x 1/2-inch were screwedto the lathe bed and in turn are clampedto the work. The hole is center punched

14A Plywood drilling tableis 5 x 5 x 1/2-Inch.

On any precise drilling job it is impor-tant that the workpiece be securelyclamped or chucked as in the photos,page 13. Double check the cross slide andcarriage locks. For miniature dri l l ing,center punch the work lightly to avoidcreating a hard spot in the metal that,might cause a small drill to deflect fromits path.

Clean the drill chuck wi th keroseneand make certain there are no chips onthe jaws. Insert the dr i l l in the chuck asdeeply as possible, but. never grip anydrill point, an the flul.es. If the d r i l lshank is marred by burrs, remove witha fine file and polishing cloth. Use a thin-ner lubricant than recommended for or-dinary drilling, such as very light mach-ine oil, kerosene, etc.

As the drill penetrates the work,watch the tip with a magnifying glass.

14B Setup for fly cuttingcamera lens board.

Drill SharpeningMany machinists claim to be able to

sharpen drills accurately by hand. Whilethis can be. done on larger drills if onepractices the art constantly, it is verydifficult to hand grind the proper cuttingtip angles and hold an accurate center.Factory-new drills will be accurate towithin 1/4-thousandth-inch or better. Adrill sharpening fixture (see Photo 16A)will help you to gr ind drills l/8-inch andlarger. However i f your work demandsmaximum precision, It is recommendedthat you take your drills to a sharpeningshop that has the proper grinding equip-ment.Work Holding Methods

The 3-jaw chuck also mounts on thecross-slide (Photo 13B) and gives you ameans of clamping circular work suchas rings, pulleys and camera lens flanges

14C Counterslnking holesin electronic meter case.

and started with a center drill for deadtrue accuracy. Feed any angle dri l l ingjob slowly to avoid drift.Drill Press Tapping

The skilled machinist always starts athreading tap with a dr i l l press or lathe.If a tap enters a hole guided only byhand, it is very easy to start as many as4 or 5 turns of the thread at a slightangle to the true axis of the hole. Theresult is a broken tap or spoiled work.

Start by dr i l l ing the hole the rightsize. Make sure the hole is clean and freeof burrs and chips. Then, without chang-ing the drill press setup, chuck the tapand using the hand lever for light pres-sure, feed into the work, turn ing thechuck by hand. Do not use motor power.

After two or three threads are cut,lock the spindle, unchuck the tap, backthe spindle off and finish with a hand tap

14

cont'd

wrench. Photo 15C shows an alternatemethod in which a center point held inthe chuck guides the tap center. The cen-ter is a 3/16 x 71/2 inch steel dowelground to a perfect point. If it is neces-sary to move the d r i l l press upward onthe c o l u m n , this pointed rod makesc e n t e r i n g easy.

DRILL PRESS cont'd

BASICUNIMAT

15A For vertical or angle edging use1-inch sanding drum on drill press.

15D To handle a big |ob, take Unimat to theworkI Clamps Insure accurate location.

BENCH GRINDER

15B Drilling model locomotive.

15C (Below) Tapping with centerbar guarantees perfect vertical thread The headstock can be setup as a lathe

or swiveled at a right angle to the bed formore working room. Whenever you workwith abrasives be sure to protect theways of the Unimat. It takes only a mom-ent, to tie a piece of cloth or tissue paperto the bed bars with wire or rubberbands. Abrasive dust ground into thesliding parts can r u i n the accuracy ofyour machine.

Another handy way to protect yourUnimat is to use household aluminumfoil which readily clamps itself on themachine. The abrasive wheel shown cut-ting the broken tap is one of dozens oftypes available.

Since abrasive wheels and mountedstones are quickly ruined if stored looselyin tool boxes, and because chipped stonescan be dangerous, it is recommended that

you make a tool rack of three pieces ofscrap wood with holes to fit the toolshafts. Such a rack will save hours oftime otherwise lost in hunting for tools.

Though it applies to all metal working

15

BASICUNIMAT GRINDINGtool grinding, surface grinding, precision

tool sharpening,..

16A With the Unimatgrinding wheel arbor,abrasive wheel andattachment bolted tocross slide, you can grindany size drill or angle,by raising or loweringthe headstock on the col-umn, or moving the crossslide.

16

operations, this advice is most importantin grinding. ALWAYS WEAR AN EYESHIELD OR SAFETY GLASSES, (XR53). GRINDING CHIPS CAN TRAVEL20 FEET ACROSS A ROOM. It wouldalso be good to have the Grinding WheelGuard (DB 1115), or to make a shield ofan 8 x 10-inch piece of clear plastic.

Grinding speeds depend on the mater-ial. Usually faster speeds remove themetal quicker, but you may overheat thepart causing it to burn, chip or crack.Keep a pan of cool water close by andwet the workpiece frequently to reduceheat. Avoid excessive pressure on thegrinding wheel. If a wheel or stone isaccidentally dropped, it may start a crackwhich can cause the wheel to fly apartat high speed. For safety, discard anydoubtful grinding wheel.

Most rough grinding, sharpening andpolishing jobs can be handled quite welland with the workpiece simply held inthe hands and brought to the cuttingwheel. But if you want to sharpen lathetools, drills, cutters, plane irons to exactangles and edges, the work must berigidly clamped and fed to the rotatingabrasive.

An unusual example of Unimat ver-satility is the setup for grinding drills,above. This drill gr inding swivel attach-ment is typical of many such units onthe market. The dri l l holder is adjustableat point "A" to 88, 69, 59 and 49 degreesettings which correspond to the anglesproduced at the drill point.

16B Setting grindingangle with protractor.

16C Sharpening dulllathe f o o l s .

Hand DrillTo use your Unimat as an 11 speed

hand drill, remove the adaptor and head-stock assembly from the drill press col-umn. The adaptor becomes an easilygripped handle for your right hand whileyou support the motor with your lefthand. The job shown in the photo is typ-ical of the kind of work in which thisUnimat application excels.

Use an ordinary heavy duty hand drillon this kind of job, and you risk breakingthrough the aluminum and damagingparts within. The Unimat owner in thiscase drilled a starting hole with a 1/4-inch center drill , followed by a 3/8-inchand 1/2-inch drill, each on 1/4-inch stepdown shanks. The drill cuts evenlyhardly jarring the instruments, and therubber drive belts act as torque releasein the event the drill jams in the holewhen breaking through.

Grinding at AnglesBolt the Unimat bed down to a flat

surface as in Photo 16B. Use an adjust-able depth gauge, or arm protractor tomeasure the angle and set headstock. Theattachment shown fastened to the crossslide is DB 1210 Milling Table, (see page19), which conveniently mounts a var-iety of attachments. The Unimat ownercan also use steel bars of similar lengthto make grinding fixtures. In Photo 16C,the standard Tool Holder grips a lathetool during sharpening operations.

cont'd

DB 1290 ACCESSORIESPOWER FEED

new attachment eliminates tedioushand feeding and produces high-precision finish...

17A Power Feed Attachment givesultra-smooth finish to motor shaft.

Designed to fit all Unimat models, thePower Feed Attachment is belt drivenfrom the spindle and drives the carriagetoward the headstock for super-fine lathework. Lathe turning, boring, and manyoperations in machining hard materials,and very small work can be handled withminimum effort and extreme precision.

17B Power feed drive shaft is beltdriven and provides a feed rate of.0008-inch per spindle revolution.

17C Flip the gear engagement lever,and the carriage starts to move,smoothly and efficiently, or stops.

17D Drive shaft is mounted inbronze bearings on both ends.Attachment need not he removedfor performing other UNIMAT oper-ation.

The drive attachment is controlled bya lever that engages a worm gear at thetailstock end of the lathe enabling youto start and stop the feed with motorrunning. Bolted beneath the lathe bed.the attachment in no way interferes withany regular Unimat operation.

Installation Steps.1. Remove complete spindle from head-

stock by loosening clamping screwsand set screw. Remove motor bracketand clamp headstock pulley in a visebetween pieces of scrap wood.

2. Remove the spindle nut with anadjustable wrench and replace withPulley Nut DB 270-13. Replace thespindle assembly as it was before.

3. Remove the leadscrew handwheel byloosening the hexagon nut. Replacewith the geared handwheel.

4. Clean bottom surface of lathe bedand oil lightly. Also clean top surfaceof feed attachment and oil.

5. Under each of the attachment mount-ing plates are Allen head cap screwswhich hold the drive shaft bearings.Loosen but do not remove.

6. Place lathe on the mounting plates.Line up mount ing holes and securewith four Allen head cap screwssupplied.

7. Using headstock feedlever, backspindle out (toward left) and line upspindle pulley nut with drive shaftpulley.

8. Attach belts and arrange drive formoderate speed. With attachment inoperation tighten the bearing sup-ports. This wi l l be easier if you placethe Unimat on scrap wood blocks.

9. As you tighten, if the drive shaft,stalls, loosen bearing screws, adjustand retighten,

10. During operation, use light machineoil in the holes of each hearing sup-port to prevent stalling. Also oil thetailstock feed gear frequently.

The step-down pulley and gear driveof the attachment provides a 1:50 reduc-tion ratio. Each turn of the spindleadvances the carriage 0.02mm (.0008-inch). A uniform chip, very smoothturning, and much longer wear-life ofthe lathe tool edges than with manualturning results. Though most turningoperations should be run toward theheadstock, you can reverse power feeddirection by crossing the power feedpulley belt.

17

DB 1001a

ACCESSORIES 4-JAW INDEPENDENT LATHE CHUCK

The 4-jaw chuck is similar to the 3-jawchuck, but where the 3-jaw chuck auto-matically self-centers round workpieces,the jaws of the 4-jaw chuck adjust sep-arately. This enables you to grip squarestock, oval slock, and irregular shapedpieces for turning, d r i l l ing , boring, mill-ing or grinding. The 4-jaw chuck alsohandles such jobs as cranks and camswhich may have to be turned or drilledoff center.

Because this chuck is supplied asoptional equipment, it must he made tobalance and center with the threadedspindle of your particular Unimat. Thisis done by filling the over-sized backplate adapter on your own Unimat lathe.See TRUING INSTRUCTIONS (right)

18A Turning off-center crank .

Using 4-jaw ChuckEach jaw adjusts separately by means

of a square chuck key provided. You canreverse any one or al l four of the chuckjaws to grip irregular work, but unlikethe 3-jaw chuck, each jaw should be usedin its own slot.

By far, the most convenient way ofcentering offset work is by using a dialgauge mounted in the tailstock. on thetool holder, or in the cross slide. The

13B Indicator dial movement showswork is not centered.

workpiece is first centered roughly byhand. Then remove the spindle drive beltand revolve the chuck to determine inwhich direction the work must be moved.Adjustment may require loosening andtightening two if not all four jaws.

JAWS NORMAL

JAWS REVERSED

Decimal Nearest InchSetup inches fraction .MillimetersA. (Ext.) .157 -.945" 11/64-1516" 4-24mmB. (Int.) .709-1.535" 45/64 -1-17/32" 18-39mmC.(lnt.) 1.338 - 2.165" 1-21/64 - 2-5/32" 34-55mm

Note: Capacities are, greater wi th Raising Block (DB 1310) is usedand when chuck is mounted on cross slide or on vertical setup.*Indicates outside diameter of workpiece. Note that this is not intend-ed for lathe machining, but may be usefuI in polishing O.D. of tublngindexlng, etc (Ext.) indicates external gripping of O.D. (outsidediameter) of workpiece. (Int.) indicates gripping of I.D. (inside boredia.) of workpiece.

With practice, work can be centeredin less than a minute. The final centeringshows on the dial gauge which indicatesmovement of the surface under the tipin thousandths of an inch. Other lessexpensive instruments for center findingare available, and you can also improviseyour own center locator.

One way is to use a piece of thin feelerslack or paper as a center finder. Mounta blunt ended bar in the tool holder. Placethe paper strip between the bar and theworkpiece and advance cross slide unt i lthe tension barely holds the paper inplace. Then rotate the chuck. If the ten-sion decreases or increases it indicateswork is not centered. Another useful andvery precice ind ica t ing method is to usea coating of very thin black or blue lac-quer. Revolve the chuck by hand and a

18

18C Backplates are supplied oversized.Only a fine trulng cut is required.

lathe tool tip will mark the high spot onthe workpiece.

Center punched for the desired boreor cut. you can suspend some workpiecesbetween the tailstock and headstock cen-ters, and then screw the jaws inwarduntil they contact the work. This prac-tice is not recommended unless you"torque in" each jaw very carefully sincethe center can be deflected by the chuckleverage.

TRUINGINSTRUCTIONS

The following steps apply to lathechucks DB 1001 & DB 1001 A, andalso to the DB 1020 Collet attachment,DB 1030 Polishing Arbor and also DB1230, 1230A Circular Saw Arbor.1. Align the lathe centers (see page 10)

and check. Then tighten headstockclamping screw.

2. Clean threads of headstock spindle andbackplate adaptor.

3. Thread backplate on headstock spindleun t i l rear face seats firmly againstspindle shoulder, C.

4. Use r ight hand facing tool to take l i g h tcut on vertical bearing surface A. Besure to lock carriage on bed and feedtool from center outward.

6. Then set tool to take lightest cut pos-sible on surface B. The diameter at Bmust fit exactly into the rear recessbore of the accessory. Undercut whereA and B join, to ensure proper seat.Use a fine file at point C to round theleading edge slightly.

6. Clean chips and try the accessory forfit. You may have to repeat the cutand try several times unt i l the fit isperfect. The result will be a perfectlybalanced accessory.

7. If you make an error, additional adap-

ters, DB 1001a/1 for the 4-Jaw Chuck,DB 1020/3 for the Collet Attachmert,and DB 1030/1 for the PolishingArbor can be ordered separately.

8. Mount the accessory with the screwsprovided.

9. DB 1230 and 1230a Circular SawArbor is supplied threaded to fit thespindle, but to center the sawsurfaces D and E must be fitted andfaced in the same way as forchucks.

DB 1001a 4-JAW CHUCK CAPACITIES

JAWSNORMAL

JAWSREVERSED

D.(Ext.) .945-1.653" 15/16 -1-41/64" 24-42mmE.(Ext.) 1.575-2.244" 1-9/16 - 2-15/64" 40-57mmF. (Int.)' 2.20 3.0"* 2 13/64 - 3"* 66-76mm*

DB 1010

MACHINEVISE

ACCESSORIES

Next in line to the 4-Jaw Chuck, theMachine Vise is the most useful acces-sory you can own. The jaws hold workup to 1 1 / 2 - inch f o r d r i l l i n g , mi l l ing ,gr inding and sawing. Also, the vise canbe fastened to your bench, or screwed toa piece of flat steel to make a very usefulhand vise.

Jaws are dead parallel. The fixed jawhas a milled vertical and horizontalV-slot which wi l l center round work. Thevise mounts ei ther on the cross slide orthe DB 1210 Mil l ing Table, with twoT-nuts which f i t the Allen head screwsused to mount Unimat accessories.

Photo at left shows how vise centers round work.A flat for a pulley set screw (center) is milled byfeeding the work back and forth under the millingcutter. (Right) Step milling a jig part.

DB 1210

MILLINGTABLE

The 3 x 5-inch Mi l l ing Table is a truef lat surface on w h i c h round stock,machine parts, model castings and prac-tically any irregularly shaped part canbe clamped. The T-slots in the table arethe same size as the one in the Unimatcross slide. This makes it possible to usethe slotted screw chuck mounting method(see Photo 13A) to mount chucks orfaceplates at any point on the table effec-tively increasing the operating rangeand versatility of the basic Unimat.

A very unusual Unimat technique ispossible with the m i l l i n g table. A partcan be chucked in any Unimat, chuck,collet attachment, or mounted on thefaceplate. Then, without upsetting thecentering, you can remove the chuckfrom the lathe, mount it on the millingtable for a cut, and again return to latheoperations.

Two T-nuts hold the milling table tothe cross slide in 8 different, ways, length-wise, vertical or at a 45-degree angle tothe lathe axis. When mount ing yourwork, arrange the T-slot, clamps so thatthe longest possible straight surface isin contact with the top of the table.

You can m i l l with the vertical d r i l lpress position, or set the headstock at anangle. Milling is easy after a little prac-tice. Start with test cuts in light alum-

19E There's no limit on mill-ing length. If your work i sover a foot long, support theoutboard weight with cast-ers or rollers. Project shownis a 20-inch locomotiveframe.

19F Milling a slot in castiron motor mount casting.

19

ACCESSORIES MILLING cont'd

inum or wood to get the feel of themachine. The most frequent mistakesare using too high a spindle R.P.M., orfeeding too fast. General purpose millswill do a good job in most materials, butfor the fastest cutt ing and best finish, itis best to buy m i l l i n g cutters designedfor the material. For example, aluminumcutting mills have broader edges and lessflutes, while milling in cast iron i s bestdone with the kind of mill that hasmore flutes and low clearance to preventdigging into the work.

One way to roughly estimate the pro-per R.P.M. i s to divide the recommendeddrilling speed for the same diameter toolby 2. Mil l ing requires the same cutterlubrication recommended for lathe workand d r i l l i n g . Always be sure thatmachine and work are solidly lockeddown, and make your s tar t ing cutslightly. Feed the work under the millslowly and evenly. (The DB 1290 PowerFeed Attachment gives you an excep-tionally even cut on long pieces).

If a milling cutter chatters on thework, i t means your feed is too fast oryou are trying to take too deep a cut.The final down-to-size finishing cutshould be very fine, removing as little asa thousandth of an inch of metal, whileroughing cuts can be as deep as .04-inchin steel and more in wood, plastic oraluminum.

DB 1260

10A, B, C Complex shapes milled In parts for a inch, and the 3-jaw lathe chuck for larger sizes. Theworking model steam locomotive. Use the drill bigger the mill the slower the R.P.M.chuck, or Collet Attachment, for mills under 1/4-

If only a little milling work of a cer-tain size is needed, the resourceful Uni-mat owner can improvise milling cuttersby grinding the ends of discarded drillpoints flat, and by cutting back the trail-ing edges of the drill flutes. Many handcarving tools can also be used for milling

20D Typical mounting for milling flats on shafts. Ifyou need additional milling clamps and bolts, order

1210/3.

plastic and aluminum, but not iron, steelor brass.

Always protect your eyes during mill-ing with a plastic shield clamped betweenyou and the machine, or with SafetyGoggles (see XR 53, page 33).

20E Surface grinding is usually possible only onvery expensive machine tools. This Unimat setup iscapable of split-thousandth accuracy and can beused to produce parts for guns, cameras, gaugesand scientific Instruments.

INDEXING AND DIVIDING ATTACHMENT

20

Gears, cams, flanges, lens mountingrings and other circular parts oftenrequire a series of evenly spaced holesarranged on a circle. The DB 1260attachment has a precise spring loadedpin which locates angles on the circle byfitting into a toothed index plate. Thisindex plate is protected from dirt andchips by the casting as shown in photoat right. The attachment is supplied withone 48-division index plate. Index platesgiving other divisions are separatelyavailable.

You can use your Basic Unimat 3-JawLathe Chuck on the attachment. It hasa built-in backplate. Just remove thelathe chuck backplate, place the chuckon the attachment, line up the holes andmount with the three screws. Be sure totighten them a few turns each at a time,instead of running them all the way in.On any such assembly, you can damagethe fit by tightening one side before theother two screws are in place.

Odd shaped or bulky workpieces canbe easily clamped to an accessory unit,DB 1261 Round Table. This table has 3

T-slots and 3 clamps. The table slots arethe same size as those in the DB 1210Milling Table and the cross slide of thelathe, so that clamping bolts and nutsused on other attachments will fit.

Let's demonstrate a typical job. Theflange in Photo 20F requires three pre-cise equally spaced holes. Also we needto cut a "flat" on one side of the flangedead parallel to the holes. We can use the48, 36 or 30 division index plate, sincethree divides equally into any of thesenumbers.

Since the center of this flange mustpress fit on a machined shaft, we pre-viously turned the inside diameter of theflange with the chuck jaws reversed. Theoutside of the flange requires no turn-ing, so we replace the 3-jaw chuck jawsin normal position and grip the flangeon its inside diameter.

Now our holes in the flange must belocated on an exact 13/8-inch circle. Withthe workpieee still chucked in the lathe,we mark the circle by coating the flangeface with machinist's marking dye. alacquer-like fluid that dries in a few sec-

20F The attachment may be mounted in 8 differentways on the cross slide.

ends. With a scriber point in the lathetool holder it is easy to engrave a precisecircle, simply by rotating the spindle byhand. Then, at any point on the circle,we carefully punch a center mark.

Next, we mount the chuck on the IndexAttachment and using the drill presshandlever, we bring the center drill(mounted in drill chuck) down to thecenter punch mark. Lathe feeds are usedin both directions to bring work toexactly the right place. Lathe cross slideand carriage locking screws are nowlocked down solid. We also tighten thedrill press column clamping screw.

As a safety measure, we now use acrayon to mark the location of the firsthole. Then we pull the pin and rotate thechuck about a third of a full circle. Whenwe release the pin, it goes down into theindex plate tooth at that point, guaran-teeing that we have moved an exact 120degrees. We repeat this step again andthen turn the chuck to its starting place.

Now we tighten the Allen head lockingscrew on the attachment. This locks theassembly tightly in place and preventsthe slightest rotation. The first hole isdrilled, followed by the second and thirdholes. In each instance, a starting holeis made with the center drill, followed

21B You can increase capacity of your Index-ing Attachment (mounted here on DB 1210Milling Table) by making a raising block thatallows the table to pass over the cross feedknob. The 1 /2-inch thick aluminum or steelblock measures 2 x 3 1/2 inches. Holes drlledthrough the block match the Milling Table forbolting.

by the regular drill. For this kind of job,we reserve a set of sharp new drills thatare perfectly true on their cutting edges.The crayon marks previously applied pre-vent errors in using the wrong cog onthe index plate.Dividing Procedure

To mill the flat on the side of theflange, we turn the chuck to a point mid-way between two of the previously usedpoints. The Dividing Attachment isfirmly locked. We replace the drill witha small milling cutter, loosen the crossslide feed locking screw, and back theassembly away from the drill toward thefront of the lathe bed. The cross slide isagain locked, and now we use the lathecarriage feed screw to run the workback and forth under the milling cutter,advancing the cross feed each pass. Thuswe cut a flat edge on one side of theflange.

ACCESSORIES

21A DB 1261 Round Table (top left), accessory to IndexlngAttachment mounts with Ihree flat head screws. IndexingAttachment DB 1260 (top right) is shown with Index plateinstalled. The Round Table has three tapped holes which fitall Unimat 6mm round head Allan screws.

Index Head ApplicationsThe basic method of indexing and

dividing described above can be used tomill (and grind) a wide variety of mate-rials into triangular, square, or multi-sided shapes of any number of sides asshown in the table. To save time in yoursetups, use wood and rotary carving orwood routing bits to practice cuttingangular shapes.

Square bolt heads can be made by thismethod, as well as hexagonal bolts ofany size. A pyramid shape can be milledby setting the headstock at an angle.Gears require a milling cutter shapedto the exact profile of the desired geartooth. If the gear teeth are to be milledat an angle, you'll need to improvise anangle base for the Indexing Attachmentwhich can be bolted between the attach-

ment base and the Milling Table. If pos-sible, obtain a finished gear of the samepitch angle desired, and use it to maketrial test cuts. Because of the wide var-iety of gear designs, detailed instruc-tions are not given in this manual. Toproduce evenly milled teeth, you willneed to add carriage and cross slidestops to your Unimat.

To produce common service gears, itis suggested that you can save time byfirst milling a test blank of the properdiameter in soft material such as Mason-ite Benelux, or any good plastic. Tomachine instrument gears of high pre-cision, the only approach is to mathe-matically compute all required distances,feeds and traverses, and to improvisetest fixtures to check each cut.

InterchangeableIndex Plates

48 (included withattachment)

40 (DB 1263/40)

36 (DB 1263/36)

30 (DB 1263/30)

For Circular DivisionsIn These Combinations

2,3,4,6,8,12.16,24,48

2, 4, 5, 8. 10, 20, 40

2, 3. 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, 36

2, 3, 5, 6. 10, 15, 30

To interchange index plates, remove the retaining ring fromthe slot in the rear of the casting. Use a needle nose plier orretaining ring plier to compress the snap ring. Four indexplates provide 18 different divisions.

21

ACCESSORIES INDEXING DIVIDING cont'dand GEAR CUTTING

The intermediate mounting plate shown at top leftwas turned on the Unimat lathe to fit over the Index-Ing Attachment plate. Made of 1/4-inch aluminum,it has a 1/2-inch center hole. The wooden work-piece, in this case, a 1 3/4-inch maple dowel wouldhave been marred if mounted in the regular 3-jawchuck. To mount even larger work pieces, make yourown mounting plate as shown, but instead of bolt-ing to the Round Table with the T-slot bolts, runscrews up through the bottom of the table.

Center photo shows method of locating large work-pieces over Indexing Attachment. A piece of 1/2-inch cold-rolled steel about 3 inches long wasmounted between Unimat lathe centers and turnedto a diameter to just fit the Round Table center hole.One end of the bar was turned to a point. Finishedlength should be about 2 1/2 inches.

Machine designer Ervlng Edell (above righl) checksangle of sawing cut on five sided block. Blocks ofthis type with any desired number of sides can bemachined on the Dividing Attachment to makemathematical and chemical models, or bases fortrophies, models, and chessmen. The same setupcan be used for sawing botanical sections, or formaking cutaway models of motors, and mechanisms.

Three views of gear cutting selup show a generalprocedure. The first step Is to make your own gearblank holder. This one (above left) was turned onthe Unirnat lathe from a piece of 1-inch round cold-rolled steel. The flat rear face rests solidly againstthe top of the 3-|aw chuck providing o precise cen-tered grip. Since the gear was designed to fit a5/16-inch shaft, a bolt of exactly this diameterpartially threaded Is used as a center. A DB 1133Woodruff-key cutter was ground down to the geartooth shape to make the special gear milling cuttershown in photos.

[Above) 3-Jaw Chuck screws directly to attachmentcollar to automatically center work. Two step tri-angular insignia plate is milled with Woodruff cut-ter. Object is setting for ring,(Below) Unimat versatility solves machine shopproblem. In seconds, Indexing Attachment bolts toDB 1 2 1 0 Milling Table which in turn clamps to largedrill press table. Ordinarily, job could be handled

only with expensive Milling Table.

22

Instrument gears requiring mare accuracy than isobtainable on this setup would be mounted on yourown thread-center, or taper center backplates turnedto fit the Indexing Attachment. The cutting tool forgreatest accuracy, should be mounted in a specialholder or in DB 1020 Collet Attachment. The 1/4-inch collet available for this attachment will fit manyspecial milling cutters and grinders available in thatsize shank.

DB 1020

COLLETATTACHMENTAND COLLETS

ACCESSORIES

for ultra-fine precision work

The Collet Attachment is used on the Unimat lathe, drill press and mill,whenever round stock, or tools must be gripped with utmost precision.There are four main parts, (from left to r ight) the back plate, colletholder body, collet and nose piece. The back plate fits the headstockspindle. Since it must revolve with perfect concentricity on your machine,you will need to take a small truing cut, as shown in Truing Instructions,on Page 18. Flat head screws are provided to fasten the collet body toback plate.

DRAW BARSPINDLE

Before installing collet make sure spindlerecess is perfectly clean. Collet keyway mustline up with spindle bore key.

This accessory replaces the standardUnimat headstock spindle. It takes lessthan a minute to install the assemblywhich converts your Unimat into amachine capable of watchmaker's pre-cision. The spindle accommodates allstandard WW (watchmakers) size lathecollets, chucks and accessories, shown.Like the standard spindle, the Draw BarSpindle engages the headstock hand-Feedlever so that it can be used to feed eitherin the drill press or lathe positions.

Like the Collet Attachment, colletchucks for the Draw Bar Spindle mustnot be forced or distorted by use on anysize other than the exact diameterstamped on the nose. Bar stock up to4mm diameter (.157-inch) can be fedthrough the hollow center of the drawbar. Spindle runout is rated at .0004 orless.

Draw Bar Spindle is suitable forproduction work on small instrumentparts.

23

DB 2600Quarter-inch and 1/8-inch collets will

grip the most popular size tool shanks.Never chuck anything but the rated sizein any collet. An attempt to grip workmore than a few thousandths over orunder can cause damage to the collet.Collets are available in all 64th-inch sizesup to 5/16-inch and in all half millimetersizes from 1 through 8mm.

ACCESSORIES DB 1280

SLOW SPEED ATTACHMENTThis attachment consists of a casting

which adds an extra idler pulley to yourUnimat power drive system to give youtwo additional low speeds, 100 and 330R.P.M. These speeds must be used whenturning large diameter work, in thread-ing, and machining hard metals.

To install the attachment, unscrew themotor pulley screw, remove the pulleyand unscrew the motor from the originalmotor bracket casting. Then remove theheadstock spindle from the headstockhousing. The motor bracket casting cannow be removed from the spindle assem-bly by loosening the Allen head screw.Replace with the Slow Speed Attach-ment and re-assemble as in the photo.

Use a straight edge to make sure thepulleys are in exact plane to one another.Avoid over t ightening the Allen headscrew which holds the idler pulley ballbearings. The bearings must spin freelywithout binding.

With this as well as many other attach-ments, you will find it convenient tomount the Unimat bed on a block of woodabout an inch thick. This permits easierchanging of the belts.

DB 1270

THREADINGATTACHMENTUnimat produces precisionthreads in all common sizesfrom 16 through 56-per-inch!

'Using your Unimat Threading Attach-ment is actually easier than workingwith the carriage lead screws and gearson most lathes, and it is far more accu-rate. Precision threads for cameras,microscopes, telescopes, measuring in-struments and laboratory apparatus areall easy to make.

Instead of a lathe lead screw, theattachment uses a mode of operationusually found only on very expensive spe-cial lathes. A master pattern controls thethread pitch (distance between threadcrests). The cutting tool, as shown in thephotos, is pulled along the surface ofthe workpiece by a follower that ridesin the master pattern. These thread pat-terns (DB 1271) are available from 16to 56 threads-per-inch, and from .50 to1.50 mm.

There is very little wear on the threadpattern because it i s made of hard steel,and the follower is brass. The brass sur-face takes the wear, and the more costlypart, the master is unaffected. When the

brass follower wears down so much thataccuracy suffers (only after hundredsof threading operations) replacementfollowers are available at nominal cost.

To install the attachment, fasten thetwo mounting brackets at each end of thelathe bed. You can use either the 3-jawor 4-jaw chucks for threading. Removethe backplate from the chuck and reas-semble on the spindle with the desiredpattern placed between the chuck back-plate and the spindle end, as shown indrawing.

Packed with attachment are a set offlat head screws slightly longer thanthose ordinarily used to mount the chuckto its backplate. To cut American Stand-ard, and Metric threads, use the 60-degree thread cutting tool supplied withthe attachment. (Whitworth and BSFthreads require a 55º point). Otherthread forms, square, rounded etc.require that you grind a tool bit to thedesired shape and angle.

Let's suppose that you want to cut a1/4-inch x 20-thread screw. This is a

24A

24B

very common size used on camera screwsand laboratory apparatus. The first stepis to assemble the attachment with either3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck.

We start by checking the major diame-ter with a micrometer. In this case, a1/4-inch screw has a nominal diameterof about .250-inch. Turn down the sec-tion of metal to be threaded to this diam-eter. If the work piece is a stub thread(Photo 24B), it is a good idea to file arounded edge on the end of the work fora better start.

Then mount the thread cutting lathetool as in Photo 24B so it just touches theworkpiece. The cut t ing arm adjustmentscrew rests against the top of the lathecross slide, and this surface serves toguide the cut.

The thread pattern must be set so itcan be engaged at the first thread on theright side of the thread master as webegin the cut. Threading must be doneat the lowest lathe speeds, and for largediameter work, the Slow Speed Attach-ment (DB 1280) will be needed.

The threading cut is a rapid process.You simply press down on the cuttingarm adjustment screw. The thread fol-lower engages the master thread pattern,and the lathe tool traverses the work cut-ting a fine line in the surface of the metal.We repeat the operation several times. Atthe end of each cut, the assembly is auto-matically lifted upward. After every fewcuts, we can increase the depth of threadby turning the depth control wheel. Asthe thread is formed, we can measure itby any one of several methods.

The easiest way is to compare with ascrew that is known to be accurate. Thedepth of thread can be measured bywrapping wire around the diameter andmeasuring with a micrometer. Specialthread micrometers with pointed anvilsare available, or you can simply fit the

DB 1270

THREADING cont'd ACCESSORIES

THREADING ATTACHMENT ASSEMBLY

thread into the nut or tapped hole withinwhich it is to work.

With a little practice the threads youmake on your lathe should easily equalthe quality of threading found on ordin-ary commercial hardware. To produceinstrument threads, there are two dis-tinct approaches. The easiest way tomake high quality fits is to individual lymate pairs of threaded parts, and thismethod wi l l serve for most model andexperimental work.

A more time consuming and painstak-ing approach is to follow factory proce-dures in setting your own tolerances forthe fits of threads you cut. To do this,you will need to consult good manuals onthread standards.

Internal threads are cut in the sameway as external threads, except that youmount the DB1106 inside threading bit(part of DB1100 lathe tool set) on the

AVAILABLE INCH THREAD PATTERNS ANDCORRESPONDING THREAD SIZES

internal cutting arm (Photo 25B), withthe point of the tool facing downward.As you back the assembly out of the boreafter a cut take care not to nick thefinished threads.

In all threading work, it is importantto keep your threading bit tips sharp bytouching up with a fine stone. Use lightcutting oils for threading steel, and kero-sene for aluminum. The workpiece andall parts of the Threading Attachmentmust always be solidly fastened in place.Whenever you set up for threading aworkpiece, scribe a witness mark oppo-site your #1 chuck jaw. If the workshould slip in the chuck you will be ableto return the work to its original startingpoint. Multiple threads and compoundthreads can be cut by first producing onethread, and then rotating the work thedesired number of degrees to a newmount ing posi t ion in the chuck.

PATTERN(THREADS

PERINCH)1618202224262830323640485056

NC DIAMETER

3/8"5/16"1/4"

not a standard size#12 (.2160") & #10 (.1900"

not a standard sizenot standardnot a standard size

#8 (.1640") & #6 (.1380"not standard#5 (.1250") & #4 (.1120"

#3 (.0990")not a standard size

#2 (.0860")

NF DIAMETER

3/4"9/I6" & 5/8"7/16" & 1/2"

) 5/16" & 3/8"

1/4" & #12 (,2160

) #10 (.1900")#8 (.1640")

) #6(.1380")#4(.1120")

#3 (.0990")

WHITWORTH (BSW)DIAMETER

3/8"5/16"1/4"

7/32" & 3/16"(For 1/4" Br. St. Fine)

") not standard

5/32"not standard

1/8"3/32"

not standard

24AInlernal Ihreading (right) re-quires drop bar tool holder.

24BSupport long, thin work-pieces (below) with ballbearing live Center (DB1220or 1220a) in tailstock.

AVAILABLE METRIC THREAD PATTERNSAND CORRESPONDING THREAD SIZES

PITCH INTERNATIONAL STD. DIAMETER.50 mm..70 mm.,75mm..80 mm,

1. 00 mm.1.25 mm.1.50 mm.

3 mm.4 mm.

4.5 mm.5 mm.

6 mm. & 7mm.3 mm. & 9mm.

10mm. & 11 mm.

FRENCH STANDARD DIAMETER

not standardnot standard

4 mm. & 4 5 mm.not standard

6, 7, 8 & 9 mm.not standard

10mm. 8 12 mm

25

MOUNTINGBRACKET

FOLLOWER ARMAND INTERCHANGEABLE

FOLLOWERCUTTING ARM

ADJUSTMENT SCREW

INSIDE THREADINGHOLDER

DEPTH CONTROL WHEEL

CUTTING ARM/TOOL HOLDER

GUIDE ROD

PATTERNFOLLOWER

CHUCK BACKPLATEADAPTOR

OUTSIDE THREADCUTTING BIT

INSIDE THREADCUTTING BITTHREAD

PATTERN

HOLES FIT 3-JAWOR 4-JAW BACKPLATES

MOUNTING BRACKET CONTACTSURFACE

ACCESSORIESJIG SAWcuts intricate shapes in metalwood and plastics...

26

Perhaps the modeler's most usefulattachment is the Unimat Jig Saw. Itfollows any line you can draw on metal,wood, plastic, and hardboard. The elevenspeed headstock drive gives you a meansof using just the right speed for the job,prolonging blade life and getting asmooth controlled cut. every time.

Your first step in installing the attach-ment is to feed the headstock spindlefull right and lock it in place. Then putthe jig saw eccentric drive on the spin-dle (Photo 26C). Next slip the baseassembly over the bed and add the clamp-ing plate as in Photo 26D. Before lockingthe Allen head screws, gently slide theassembly toward the headstock so thatthe eccentric drive pin engages the mech-anism. Check the action by revolving theheadstock pulley by hand.

The table fastens to the base with twoAllen head screws. Install a saber bladeand you are ready for saber cutting. Two

more screws mount the jig saw arm, asin Photo 26B.

Before turning the power on. arrangeyour belt drive for lowest speed. It isalways a good idea to make a trial cut atminimum R.P.M. to get the "feel" of themachine and the material. Then, youcan increase speed for faster cutting.The blade must be centered in the slot,Jigsaw blades will break if they areclamped out of line.

A coarse-toothed blade cuts faster, butalso tends to break or tear thin material.Fine-toothed blades tend to choke up onthick material. Usually the coarse bladeis intended for fast wood cutting, themedium-toothed blade for plastics, andthe fine-toothed blade for metals. Spiral-toothed blades have the advantage of cut-ting in any direction.

Unimat saber saw blades are colorcoded: blue for metal cutting, red forplastics, and yellow for wood.

(Above) For delicate jobs use mini-mum spindle speed. A foot switchprovides a convenient control factor.

26B (left) Jig saw will cut to center of16-inch circle. Ball bearing mecha-nism gives smooth reciprocatingaction.

26C Eccentrlc drive threads on headstockspindle (left).

26D With frame removed, saber sawhandles large workpieces such aselectronic meter panel, above.

Photo shows boat bulkheads sawedfrom hardwood. To cut sharp insidecorner, use spiral blade. With plainblade, make first cut slightly shortof comer, then come in at rightangle for finish cut.

DB 1070

26A

CIRCULARSAW

ACCESSORIES

27B Fit blade properly andyou've got the most accurateinexpensive table saw in theworld!

27A Electronic designers find small table sawideal for cutting phenolics, printed circuitboards and insulating material.

Unimat Circular Saw Attachments aredesigned to give you a tool at very lowcost that will do extremely fine, straightaccurate cutting of metals, wood andplastics.

Instal l ing the attachment takes only afew seconds. If your Unimat is set up asa lathe, you can change over to thecircular saw and back to the lathe in lesstime than it takes to change blades onsome table saws! Be sure your headstockspindle threads are clean, and that thesurface of the cross feed is free of chips.The attachment fastens to the cross slidewith two Allen screws and T-slot nuts.

You will find that the saw blade wi l lnot fit the arbor until you take a finetruing cut with a lathe tool ( see instruc-tion, page 18). Proceed very cautiously.It takes a very small cut, less than 1/32-inch to fit the saw to the arbor. Unimatsaw blades will then all fit the arbor, how-ever the meticulous machinis t ; will wantto permanently equip each special sawblade he acquires wi th its own arbor,because saws will wear into a more per-fect circle with use. Also, you can devisesaw sharpening fixtures which wi l l dressthe saw teeth while the saw is mountedon the headstock spindle. By such means,you can develop perfectly balanced sawsfor ultra-thin high speed cutting.

For ordinary work you'l l find that theperfectly trued Unimat saw blade offersan advantage. Unlike the usual homeworkshop saw, you wi l l be able to fol-low a marked line on wood very easilythough guiding freehand. There is notendency with a truly smooth runningmachine for the blade to pull away fromthe line.

A rip fence is included for repeat cut-ting. You can set it by rough trial andre-setting, or you can use an Inside Cali-per (XR-41 ) to measure from the bladeto the fence. A faster way requires thatyou have a sample piece of material ofexactly the desired width. Layers of thinmetal can be used to make up the thick-ness. Place the sample between the sawblade and the fence along with a layer ofthin paper for clearance spacing. Gentlypress the fence toward the saw blade.

With the paper layer against the saw,the blade should just barely turn with alittle resistance. Then lock the fence inplace. On some materials you will need avery slight extra clearance at the rearend of the fence.

Every time you set up for precise slit-ting, cut an extra piece of stock about4 inches long, mark it and save for futureuse as a width setting gauge. Sets of such"thickness blocks" will not only enableyou to quickly run duplicate work in thefuture, but will have many other uses inyour shop.

For a start, try ripping scrap materialfirst. With a little practice you'll soon findthat you can hold wood thicknesses tomicrometer tolerances. The right speedfor sawing in any material is the speedthat gives you the fastest, smoothest cutwithout overheating the blade. Alwaysfeed gently. Feeding hard will overloadthe teeth—chips will backup, and over-heating that can draw the saw bladetemper, is the result. Excessive speedscan also burn the work.

Two standard blades, 2 3/8-inch diame-ter are stock for the small DB 1230 sawtable. The coarse-toothed blade is inten-ded for wood (DB 1231); the fine toothedblade for aluminum, light metals andplastics (DB 1232). Any fine-toothedblade can also be used on thin pieces ofwood and wi l l produce very accuratesmooth cuts. But such use can overheatand ru in the blade. With care, cuttingslowly, keeping the blade cool, it can bedone in an emergency.

27C Using XR 41 inside spring caliper to setfence for desired cut.

27D When cutting thin sheet metal, feedslowly. Lift and twist thin slices away from therearmost saw edge to avoid jamming. Usekerosene on soft aluminum.

27E When wood grain converges near yoursaw line, the wood may compress back of thecut and jam the saw. Stop the saw and put asmall wedge in the cut.

To cut very long thin pieces. or to cutlarge unwieldly sheets of material, youwill find you'll need to improvise out-board sawing guides. Turn some 2-steprollers on you r la the. These can bemounted on heavy wood blocks nailed orclamped to the rear or sides of your workbench to guide the saw cut in an abso-lutely straight line.

27

DB 1230 21/2-INCH

ACCESSORIES HEADSTOCK RAISINGBLOCK & CLAMPING BOLT

Headstock raising block used on drill press set-upincreases reach. Drill press will now drill lo centerof 7 5/8 -inch0 circle.

Fitting between the headstock castingand the lathe bed casting, this newlyintroduced accessory increases your latheto a full 4 7/16-inch swing.

The block is steel, machined on bothsides 3/4-inch thick and is supplied witha longer clamping bolt. Because the newbolt has two holes, you can use it on thelathe set-up, either with or without theraising block.

To install the bolt, remove the lock-ing pin as the photo shows. After a longperiod of use. this pin may freeze inplace. Do not force by punching or ham-mering. Use a drop of "Liquid Wrench"or penetrating oil to free the pin. Installthe new bolt and replace pin.

The quickest way to align the latheheadstock is to mount the face plate onthe tailstock, and the 3-jaw chuck (withjaws removed) on the headstock. Par-tially tighten the tapered headstockclamping screw and butt the face of the3-jaw chuck against the face plate,allowing the headstock to swivel intoline. Tighten clamping screw solidly.

With raising block in place, light lathecuts can be taken with the tool holder innormal position. However this upsets thegeometry of the tool, and is not recom-mended for extensive work. Make a tool-holder raising block of a piece of 3/4-inch thick scrap aluminum, steel or.hardwood. One of the long bolts from theMilling or Indexing Table will hold theimprovised tool post block in place.

Unimat lathe equipped with headstock and toolholder raising blocks machines aluminum disc of4 3/16-inch diameter.

DB 1230a Clamping pin should pull out easily.

3 9/16 INCH CIRCULAR SAWThis is a larger version of the table saw blade. This larger saw unit comes

saw shown on page 27. It requires that equipped with one coarse-toothed saw-you use the headstock raising block blade £or cutting wood and some plastics,shown above, and swings a full 3 9/16 -inch

28

The 4 3/4 x 6 5/16-inch table Include; a pivot guard thatprotects the fingers and a slitter that helps to openthe saw cut (above) and prevent jamming the blade.

DB 1310

When you push wood close to the end of a cut, ifthe wood suddenly splits, the saw can slice yourhand. Make a beveled push-slick, notched to gripvarious sizes, Paint the stick a bright color—hang iton your tool rack and use i t every time you sawsmall pieces of wood on any power table saw.

Dead straight cuts on tubing, roundor square stock and odd-shaped sectionscan be made by clamping the work eitherin your Machine Vise (DB 1010) or Mill-ing Table (DB 1210) mounted on thecross slide. The work must be lined updead parallel to the lathe bed, and theheadstock perfectly centered in latheposition. As shown in the photo, youslowly feed the work to the cuttingblade, with the cross feed screw.

The common fine-toothed saw bladeswill handle a l imited amount of cuttingin soft aluminum, but should never beapplied to hard aluminum, iron or steel.Special metal slitting blades are avail-able that have hardened teeth, and youcan obtain or make th in mill ing bladesthat also will cut hard metals. On specialorder, you can get miniature carbidetoothed blades.

MACHINE SAWINGEven hardened tool steel can be cut

with this set-up by using the right gradeof abrasive cut-off wheel. Modern flex-ible abrasive wheels should be used atmaximum R. P. M. Unlike the rigidwheels, there is little danger of the discbreaking up , b u t you may need tomachine oversized collars to support thewheel properly.

Abrasive cutting can also be done onshort lengths of material with the Uni-mat set up in the drill press position, andthe work supported vertically on thecross slide with vise or chuck. With aperfectly clamped set-up, and caution infeeding, you can use larger abrasivewheels, than would fit on the lathe set-up.

ACCESSORIES

Abrasive wheel saws thin stainless tubing. Usedamp cloth to keep metal cool.

DB 13303 1/2-INCH SANDING DISC

Use minimum speeds to avoid burning softmaterials such as the plastic lamp louver.

WOODTURNING

Wood turning is a hobby in itself, andin fact is one of the earliest mechanicalcrafts known to man. You can turn aninfinite variety of cylindrical shapes;among them, such practical objects ashandles for tools, bases for lamps, tro-phies, etc. Beautiful models of antiquefurniture can be seen in many museumsand are easily produced on the Unimat.The same is true of architectural mod-els. Many mode! items in metal, forexample cannon barrels, start out aswood-turned patterns for foundrycastings.

At your local foundry, you can havethe shape duplicated in iron, brass oraluminum.

This cast iron Sanding Disc requiresDB 1310 Headstock Raising Block, andhas reinforcing ribs on the back side. Itis bui l t like a heavy-duty face plate. Youcan use it as a power sanding disc asshown in the photo, or as a metal-turningface plate. To turn large pieces of metal,you will need to d r i l l radially balancedholes in square or triangular pattern,through which you can bolt your work.

This disc is an ideal companion tocither the large or small circular sawtables. Precision duplicate sanding canbe done by clamping a guide to the tableparallel to the disc.

Perfectly round wheels can be pro-duced by installing a pin in the sawtable top. Saw a disc shape of any size on

the: jig saw. Dril l a center hole In theworkpiece. then use your sander, and sawtable with pin set-up, to sand the edgeto a true circle.

If you plan to do considerable work inwood, you will probably want sets ofsanding discs (DB 1331, 2, 3) ready touse with fine, medium and coarse paper.To save the cost of buying extra cast-iron discs, turn discs of 1/4-inch hard-board. Mount the disc with three flat-head screws (counter-sunk level with thehard board surface) to match slot holesin the Unimat face plate. Secure withnuts on the back side of the face plate.Ordinary flat sandpaper can be used inan emergency, to make abrasive discs.But factory made die-cut discs (DB1131, 2, 3) are preferable, since they havetrue edges and wil l lay perfectly flat.Using common rubber cement is hazard-ous since discs can fly off at high speed.For safety, use Sanding Disc Cement.such as DB 1335 (See Page 32).

Center drilling ends of stock is first step inwood turning.

As an example in wood turning, let'ssay we need a dowel of a certain size.Working from a large block or board ofwood, the first step is to cut a squaresection on the table saw. If we want tofinish with a 3/4-inch round dowel, 1-inch square would be a good start. Markthe center of each end and set up the lathe

as shown above. Put a center drill inthe chuck and use the tailstock to pushthe wood into the rotating drill. Repeatfor the other end.

Now mount the wood between the DB1205 Spur Drive Center (which screwson the lathe spindle) and the tailstockcenter. The Spur Drive Center has two

29

ACCESSORIESWOOD TURNING cont'dwith the

DB 1201 STEADY FOR WOOD TURNING

DB 1201a ADJUSTABLE HAND TOOL REST

DB 1205 SPUR DRIVE CENTER

DB 1220 & 1220a BALL BEARING LIVE CENTERS

DB1201 Steady Rest is a good support forwood turning in close corners. Also, it makesa useful rest for hand grinding when sharp-ening chisels, plane blades, etc. Photo showswood turning job supported in 3-jaw chuckwhich can be used for very light cutting, orslow sanding work, But set-up is not sate athigh speed since wood can give, causing 3-jawchuck jaws to open and possibly cause dam-age to themselves or bed ways, Also, chuckjaws mar work. On any high speed work, itis always a good Idea to double lock yourchucks, lathe dogs, and fixtures, with heavyrubber bands or twine.

DB 1201a Adjustable Hand Too! Rest gives you a 4 3/4-inchstraight surface for resting your wood turning chisels, in fore-

ground is DB 1136 Round Tipped Gouging Tool. Inuse i s DB 1137 Veining Tool, a straight bladed tipthat is useful for cutting in long straight Iines, Youcan grind your own special shape tools from dis-carded shanks of broken taps, drills, etc. For safety,always use long, well-made handles on wood turn-ing chisels, and always make sure your lathe issolidly locked up before turning power on.

prongs which bite into the wood, drivingthe workpiece. You can use either theregular lathe center, or one of the ballbearing live centers, (DB 1220 or I220a)shown at r igh t . The Live Center ispreferred because it will take high speedswithout overheating and scorching thewood.

To turn a square into a round, startwith a DB 1136 Gouging Wood Chisel.Use a medium speed and with the woodchisel supported on either rest, slowlyapproach the wood. The handle of thechisel must be firmly gripped in thehands. Avoid digging into the wood toofast. Fingers on the chisel blade will tellyou when the tool is overheating.

Make a complete pass to produce arough cylinder. Then increase the speedand make fine cuts to reduce size untilyour cylinder is just slightly larger than

desired. Finish by taking a final cut witha long strip of sandpaper held in bothhands and "stroked" diagonally from oneend of the work to the other. Three orfour light passes with the paper will giveyou a perfectly true round piece.

Your Unimat lathe can be used to turntapered table legs and other long work-pieces if you improvise a lathe extension.Make a holder for the tailstock and clampit to your bench in line with the head-stock. Then use a long piece of angleiron or straight bar stock as a steadyrest.

With the DB 1310 Raising Block andthe DB I201a Adjustable Hand ToolRest, you can turn small plates andwooden bowls. Secure the workpiece tothe face plate with wood screws runningfrom the back.

Live Center DB 1220 (left) with singlebail bearing race is suitable for all woodturning jobs. DB 1220a is a heavy dutymodel. Shown in cutaway view, doubleball bearings take more lateral thrust,for tough cuts in metal.

These center bearings are life-timelubricated, and cannot be dismantled. Atno time should you oil them since thiscould break up the grease inside. Afterlong periods of use at high speed, youmay notice grease leakage. This will notaffect operation, unti l you see it everytime you use the Live Center. Then, itwould be wise to force a small amount ofnew bearing grease through the holewhich runs down the stem. Insert thegrease with a swab and push inwardwith a drill blank of diameter to fit.

A wide variety of special tailstockcenters can be made to fit the ball bear-ing centers. For turning pipe, you canmake your own cone or cup centers. Formachining long shafts, you might wantto make a ball bearing chuck center. Forvery small wood turning jobs, you mightneed a hollow tube center.

Procedure is easy. First remove theoriginal tailstock center. Use a good qual-ity machinists' punch that just fits thebored hole that runs through the live cen-ter. Put the live center face down on asoft wood 2 x 4 that has a half-inch holedrilled through, and gently knock out thelive center piece. Copy the shank dimen-sions and install your own center piece.

30

twin ball bearings in hand-piecefor precise carving, routing,

engraving, polishing...

DB 1250 ACCESSORIESFLEXIBLE SHAFT

Because it is almost as flexible andeasy to direct as a dental drill, the Flex-ible Shaft is very popular. You have theadvantage of using it with all Unimatwork-load speeds up to 3750 R.P.M.

The hand-piece has two ball bearingsof excellent precision and the nose isequipped with the standard Unimat spin-dle thread, so that all chucks and access-ories can be mounted on the shaft,

To install, thread the driver on theheadstock and tighten with the bar sup-plied. Then put the shaft driving end onthe headstock spindle. Revolve by handto make sure the mating drive parts en-gage. Then lock the adapter housing tothe headstock spindle housing.

Power is transmitted through theFlexible Shaft by means of a twistedcable. It is designed to run in the forwardclockwise direction only. Overloading theshaft will ruin it. For example: if youuse a large sanding disc and press toohard, the shaft will buck and shake, andthe strain may damage the cable. TheUnimat power drive belts will help totake up sudden overloads.

Flexible shaft does fine job buffing plastic boxwith DB 1030 Polishing Arbor and Felt Disc.Polishing preparations such as lemon oil, buf-fing wax and fine pumice are available fromcraft suppliers. Tooth powder works well onmany jobs.

Generally, the largest size drill you canuse is about 5/32-inch. Larger drills willoverload the shaft, and you can do thiseven with small drills by feeding too fast.Never use the shaft when it is bent intoa tight curve or around a sharp corner.It's best to operate with the headstockturned away from the lathe axis. Storeyour shaft, hanging it straight up anddown on a wall rack, or laying it flat ina drawer. If the flexible shaft has beencurled into a small circle in shipping orstorage, it is best to lay it out flat for a

DB 1040 STEADY REST

Clamped on the bed, the DB 1040 Steady Rest willtake roundstock up la 1 1/2-inch diameter.

A steady rest is needed whenever youwant to turn slender fragile bars, or drillinto the end of long cylindrical pieces.

The quickest way to set up the rest isto support the work on lathe centers orbetween chuck and tailstock. Then loosenthe three Allen head screws and push thebrass jaws inward, until they contact thework lightly. Lock in position, and dur-ing machining use a heavy amount of oilor grease to lubricate the tips. Brassjaws are used because they cause mini-mum marring of the work. Never runthem dry. At their point of contact, theworkpiece must be smooth.

For super-accurate work, the Unimatowner may wish to install small contactrollers on the work. Also, a tight fittingring can be temporarily placed in thework to provide a riding surface. Often,you may have a ball bearing of the rightshaft size that can be supported betweenthe Steady Rest jaws.

few hours to allow the cable to straightenitself.

The shaft is pre-lubricated, but in use,some of the grease will work out. Afterevery 10 hours of use, examine the endsand add grease if necessary. The symp-tom of a lack of grease will be suddenheating of shaft spindle, or unusualscraping noise. Stop power immediatelyand check. Your warranty does not coverequipment that has been damaged thrucareless use.

Here's how NOT to use tool. Shaft is bentsharply near neck of hand-piece and it operat-ing in a circle which puts extra load on cable.Use of headstock on column for power drive ishandy. For this job, place Unimat on shelf orbox so that shaft operates in straight line.

31

ACCESSORIES

DB 1115

GRINDING WHEELGUARD

Even if you do grinding only rarely,this guard is a necessity. Grindingwheels are the only cutting tools thatsuffer invisible damage that can bereally hazardous. Always store yourwheels in fitted cases or cardboard boxes.Never keep them on high shelves fromwhich they can drop. If the wheels arehung in the open on a wall rack, theycan be accidentally nicked by other tools.In drawers, they can be jarred andcracked by heavy objects.

The guard is intended for use in hand

grinding or on the headstock when youuse it horizontally on the drill press col-umn as a surface grinder. It not onlyprotects you against flying particles thatcan put an eye out if the wheel is defec-tive, but also against snagging on thework. Remember it only takes a minuteto put. your safety goggles on, but aneye operation can take months.

DB 1160

TRUING DIAMONDAbrasive wheels often clog up with

chips particularly when you are grindingsoft metals, or when the work is oily.Sometimes you can clean a wheel withsolvent and a wire brush. A better wayis to cut away the abrasive with thisdiamond-tipped dressing tool. You canuse it free hand, resting the tool on yourwood steady, or feed it with the lathetool holder. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETYGLASSES and feed the diamond toolcautiously, slowly, stopping the feed fre-quently to avoid overheating.

POLISHING, BUFFING and SANDINGwith DB 1030 POLISHING ARBOR

DB 1035 RUBBER BACKING PADDB 1150, 1, WIRE BRUSH WHEELS

These operations are the last to bedescribed in this manual, and are thelast when you finish a project. Wheneversurface appearance is important yourfinishing technique can make the differ-ence between an average job and a truecraftsman's prize winner.

Grinding is one way of finishing flatsurfaces. On iron or steel, with the rightgrinding wheel and feed, you can producea finish as fine as a piece of glass. If thework is round, you can finish-turn it inthe lathe with a well-honed tool, and thenfollow up with strips of garnet, paper andcrocus cloth, cut into strips about 2 x 10inches. Running the machine at mediumspeeds, and being careful to constantlymove new abrasive into contact with thework, a mirror finish is possible.

On wood, start with good accurate sawcuts at the right. R.P.M. Follow up withcoarse sandpaper to get down close tosize. Use the sanding disc described onpage 29 for all flat square edge work.Rubber Backing Pad (DB 1035) shownright fits the headstock and the FlexibleShaft . This disc, made of soft rubber,flexes with the work, making it ideal forpolishing or sanding curved surfaces,edges, and for rounding corners. If youuse i t w i t h the flexible shaft, work veryl i g h t l y . R E M E M B E R THIS RULE:ALWAYS LET THE SPEED DO THEWORK. HOLD YOUR TOOL SO ITBARELY CONTACTS THE SURFACE. . . moving it in, constantly changingpatterns to avoid cutting in. Never rusha sand ing job. When you get near theend, use lower speeds. They are safer.

On wood that has been lacquered, itsometimes is necessary to use "wet

cloth", a special abrasive that must beliberally watered. Fasten your abrasivepapers to the rubber pad with DB 1335Sanding Disc Cement, a special adhesivethat dries in a few moments. Use benzeneto remove it.

Cloth buffs can be used plain, wet, orcharged with abrasives. Expert cutlerypolishers often work with marked setsof buffing wheels, each one previously

Bottle (above) is 3 ½ oz. quantity of specialUnimat sanding disc cement. Spread thinly, itdries almost immediately. Coat both surfaces.When replacing abrasive disc, both SandingDisc and Rubber Pad (above) must be perfectlyclean of all remaining cement. Dissolve withhot water.

Buffing silver plate with DB 1033, 2¾ inchcloth wheel. Use minimum R.P.M. Press lightly,moving work constantly to avoid burning. Prac-tise on scrap or hidden spots and use buffingcompound if surface is highly tarnished.DB 1030 Polishing Arbor has back plate whichmust be trued to spindle. Truing instructionsare on page 18. Felt wheels are offered in1½, 2 and 2¾-inch sizes. Tapered stem ofarbor takes all diameter centers from 7/32to 9/16-inch.

loaded with abrasive liquids of varyingbite.

Plastic polishing is a real art. As withall materials, never risk a finished pieceof work on a buffing wheel until you prac-tise the polish on scrap. A harmless look-ing cloth wheel running at high speed.or pushed too hard, can burn even thehardest, plastics, or ripple the surface.Every grade and make of plastic is dif-ferent. . . so to be safe, write to the

32

Five-inch lamb's Wool Bonnet (DB 1036) can beused on Urimat set up as hand drill to polishfurniture, plastics and even your car. Buffer mountsover Backing Pad (DB 1035). Move Ihe buff con-stantly, using minimum R.P.M. Waxes help to pre-vent scorching. Press as lightly as posslble.

DB 1150 Brass Wire Brush removes spark plugcorrosion.

DB 1500 sets include burrs, mounted abrasives,wire and bristle brushes, for various materials.See Accessary Catalog for details on each set.

manufacturers for specifications sheetson bu f f ing and finishing.

DB 1150 (brass) and 1151 (steel)Wire Brush Wheels can be used by handin the grinding position, or on the Flex-ible Shaft. They are most useful forreaching into tight corners and roundedareas. Either tool is good for polishingout rust spots on tools and instruments.On wood, the steel brush wi l l give you aweathered effect that enhances the real-ism of historic models. The brass brushis best for working on soft metals, sincethe harder steel wire tends to dig in.Wire brush wheels are particularly dan-gerous to the eyes since bits of wireconstantly break off and fly into space.Wear your goggles and keep well out ofthe plane of rotation.

Kits of miniature wire wheels, buffsand mounted abrasive stones are avail-able. The six sets, DB 1500, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5give you a good selection of these tools.

Unimat Thread SizesThreaded Part

Headstock, tailstockspindles

Lead screw, cross-feed screw

Allen head screwsSpindle locating

screwsWatchmaker spindle

draw-barHandwheels

Thread Size

M 12x1

M 8 x 1 (left)M 6x1

M 4x1

6.9M 5x1

Drill Size

10.8mm

6.7mm5.0mm

3.3mm

15/64"4.2mm

Tap & DrillSet Order #

Dieorder #

TM 12 DM12

TM 8 DM 8TM 6 DM 6

TM 4 DM 4

TM69TM 5

DM 6

DM 4

DM69DM 5

ACCESSORIES

Unimat Screws

NOTE: All screws are availablefrom stock, A useful assortmentis the SC 6-6 Set of 18 UnimatAllan Head screws. All UnimatAllen head screws have a 6mmdiameter Set consists of threeeach of following lengths: 12, 15,20, 25, 30 and 35 mm.

Time Saving Tips For The Unimat Owner

CLEANING SMALL PARTS. Never use water Rustwill accumulate and ruin precise surfaces. Thesimplest way to clean small parts is to obtain anempty coffee can, but an empty gallon paint canis better yet. Then pour kerosene into the can to adepth of about 1½-inch. Make a small basket ofaluminum window screen bent to shape. Chucks,tools and machine parts covered with oil andchips can then be lowered into the liquid andallowed to soak.

CLEANING UNIMAT LATHE. Jobs in brass, woodand aluminum will throw chips that will completelycover your machine. Use a 16-inch cookie bakingpan, covering the bottom with newspaper PlaceUnimat In pan and brush with kerosene. The chipswill collect on the paper which can then bediscarded.

RUST PREVENTION- Plastic suit-covers used bydry cleaners make a fine dust-tight cover for yourUnimat and tools. Be sure bed, drill press columnand other exposed metal parts are clean and welloiled before you cover the machine. Otherwiseentrapped moisture in the air will cause rust almostovernight.

GRINDING SAFETY. Whenever you turn on anygrinding wheel, or large rotating tool, stand wellaway from the machine. The faster a wheel turns,the more the centrifugal force. Bits of a crackedgrinding wheel can fly across the room and causeinjury. Always wear safely glasses- A plastic workshield fitted to your Unimat baseboard is also avery good safety idea.

SMALL DRILLS. Always chuck small drills as closeto the beginning of the spiral flutes as possible Toget maximum accuracy and prevent drill breakage.To get greatest centering accuracy with regulardrills, cut them down to minimum length and care-fully re-sharpen, checking with a drill gauge.

PROTECT CUTTING EDGES. Lathe tools, drills, mill-ing cutters and chisels should never be storedloosely in a drawer or chest. Edges will soon be

nicked and dulled by contact. Protect sharp edgesby wrapping tools with wax paper and frequentoiling.

SPINDLE THREADS. Every time you change chucksor mount an accessory on the Unimat, be sure theheadstock spindle threads are clean. A fast wipeis not enough because tiny particles of steel, brass,etc., can cling to the bottom of the threads. Whenthe accessory is installed over dirt. there is dangerof jamming and ruining the accuracy of the part,Use an old toothbrush and kerosene to clean. Softcotton string also is useful far cleaning threads.

USING BROKEN TOOLS. Save all broken files,saw blades, drill points and taps. The tool steel canbe ground down to make special wood turningtools, chisels, scribers, and center punches.

ELECTRICAL SAFETY . IF you work on damp floorsor near water pipes, ground the frame of yourUnimat to prevent electrical shock in case of a short.This recommendation is a must for all portableelectrical saws and drills.

KEEP RECORDS. Every time you try a new toolingtechnique an your Unimat, jot down the kind ofmetal, cutting diameter, R.P.M., and a rough sketchof the tool shape. Such notes will become veryvaluable in the future when you want to quicklyduplicate past jobs.

OIL DISPENSERS. Medicine bottle eye droppersmake handy containers for various grades of cut-ting oil, lubricants and solvents.

DAILY REMINDER. Get in the habit of alwaysremoving chucks, belts and loosening all lockingscrews when your Unimat is not in use. This simpleprocedure will prolong the life of the machine andthe accuracy of its parts,

UNIMAT GUARANTEE- To protect your invest-ment, be sure to complete and return GuaranteeCard to officially register your warranty. If youhaven't already done so, mail the Guarantee Cardtoday.

Headstock Maintenance

The motor, intermediate pulleys, and the head-stock spindle should spin freely. Avoid over-tighten-ing the Allen head screws which hold the intermedi-ate pulley bearings. This can cause the bearing tobind.

If your Unimat has been stored for a long time,set up a low speed and run the spindle a fewminutes to recirculate the grease in the bearings-

Headstock bearings are well protected from chipsand dirt, but fine abrasive dust can penetrate. Ifyou hear unusual rough noise, or the headstockshows more friction, stop the machine immediatelyand check the bearings. Greasing is required afterevery few hundred hours of average running time.However, if you operate your Unimat continuouslyat high speed, more frequent greasing will beneeded.

To remove bearings, place a tightening barthrough the spindle locking hole, and turn thespindle nut counterclockwise. Then remove thepulley. If the nut is frozen, use a drop of pene-trating oil or 'Liquid Wrench' to free it. Theheadstock spindle can then be removed by pullingthrough the headstock casting toward the tailstock.Lay the parts out on the bench so you can replacein exactly the same order, with bearing races facingin the same direction as they were.

Wash the bearings in kerosene, dry on lintlesscloth or paper, and then relubricate with highquality bearing grease (EP1). Reassembly is donein much the same way as a bicycle hub. Tightenthe headstock all the way until you feel tension onthe bearings. Then turn the nut backwards, so thebearings just spin freely without binding andwithout play.

33

ADVANCEDTECHNIQUES Unimat at home in tool room, machine shop electronics lab,

and instrument repair shop...

Machinists, tool makers and ins t ru-ment builders all over the world ownUnimats. Often you'll see a chest con-taining a complete Unimat and accessor-ies right up on the shop bench alongwith the traditional machinist's toolcase. Here are a few examples showinghow shop men apply Unimat versatilityto solve tough tooling and productionproblems.

Many times Unimat saves the cost ofexpensive special fixtures. The highspeed spindle can do a job in precisegrinding, or micro-drilling that wouldbe impossible without investing in spe-cial machinery. By taking advantage ofthe unusual angular adjustments of theUnimat headstock and drill press col-umn, you can temporarily combine yourUnimat with other machines to handlejobs of unusual complexity.. .with sur-prising ease.

Twin Unimatsfor

production!

An economical idea for short run precision jobs. Steel or aluminum tooling plate (thebase) is bored to mount two or more Unimat columns precisely vertical. Drill pressassembly (above left) consists of DB 2600 Draw Bar tapered spindle with DB 2601precision drill chuck; the combination very suitable for high-speed operation with mini-mum runout. On table is DB 1010 Machine Vise mounted to DB 1210 Milling Table , . .a setup just heavy enough to keep a small job in place under the drill, but not too bulkyto move from one machine to the next. Drill press above at right Is standard Unimatheadstock spindle and drill chuck.

LATHE SWIVEL ADAPTER. It takes only an hour's work to make thisring to fit any lathe. This one was made for a 6-inch lathe. Diame-ter is 2 ¾ inches and thickness is critical. To fit your Unimat tolarger lathe, measure from lathe center down to top of cross slide(or to tool post top on 10, 12-inch lathes)r Subtract center height ofUnimat headstock. Difference is thickness of adapter required tocenter Unimat spindle with lathe axis. Mount with two Allen headscrews.

ADAPTER APPLICATIONS: Sawing plastic tubing (top left) in production. Fine toothedblade produces burr-free edge that needs no sanding or polishing. Index drilling (topright) is good setup for producing program clock discs. Internal grinding (lower left)demands high speeds of usual tool post grinder, however this setup with collet chuckis capable of precise work in emergency and can also be used with milling cutter. Polish-ing mandrel with rubber wheel (lower right) produces very fine accurate finish, particu-larly when lathe bed feed is used.

When the work is too big, take your Unimat tothe job instead of bringing the work to the machine.This precise drilling |ob on architectural channelis done by bolting bars to base of Unimat andclamping to work at desired position. GAGING ANDINSPECTION, (center) Support Unimat on pairs ofparallel blocks above inspection plate, so dial gage

stand Is free to slide beneath. Boring tool ismounted between centers. Dial Indicates accuracyof cutting edges. UNDERCUTTING MOTOR ARMA-TURE. Unimat drill press column (right) is fitted tolathe carriage; supports headstock at any angle.Metal cutting saw slots rotor of small motor topreset depth.

34

versatile Unimat accessories in the machine shop solve tough grind-ing, drilling and sawing problems; do the "impossible" in minutes

instead of hours,..

At left, two DB 1260 IndexingAttachments both equipped withDB 1001 3-Jaw Chucks, grip work-piece ( 2 ¼ x 10-inch steel roundstock) for angle index drilling underdrill press of milling machine, Close-up above show; angular location ofholes.

Make this stub holder and you'll find it hashundreds of uses. You'll need a piece of steel about3 ½ inches long by an inch in diameter. Thethreaded portion is a duplicate of your Unimatspindle nose thread, and will fit all your chucksand power attachments. Start with the metal sup-ported between the 3-jaw chuck and tailstock cen-ter, in the lathe set-up. Reduce the thread size to,465", and the other end to about .425". Thenmount between Iathe centers and take a fine finish-Ing and polishing cut driving with the lathe dogand faceplate, To make the thread, you will needthreading die DM 12 (12x1mm) or the 1 millimeterthread pattern for DB 1270 Threading Attachment.Make sure your threads are dead square with thebar,

Here the stub holder solves a tough fixturebuilding problem. The wooden coil form dowelson this electronic factory fixture had to be exactly1/2-Inch high. Holes were drilled in the hardwoodbase, and the dowels fastened in place with glue.Using DB 1230/1 circular saw arbor, and theD B 1 2 3 2 metal cutting blade, a perfectly levelsmooth cut was obtained on the shop drill press.

The stub holder converts your chucks into handyholders For small drills, points and carving tools.Model makers working on ships find this precision"pin vise" specially useful. In the same way theholder will grip your 3-jaw, 4-jaw, and colIetchucks for accurate hand work.

ADVANCEDTECHNIQUES

Here's another accessory you can make to adaptyour Unimat to other machines. The post was turnedto match the diameter of the Unimat drill presscolumn, and a base was turned to fit the cross feedswivel plate of this 6 Inch lathe.

Now the Unimat drill can be positioned any-where over work chucked in the lathe. The jobshown required a series of indexed holes to bedrilled radially at an angle with very close accu-racy. Inexpensive Unimat parts solved an otherwisetough problem that would have required a specialdrilling fixture

Using the same column for milling. the machinistproduced a cut normally impossible on a lathe; thelathe feed screw is used to drive the carriage, byhand or by separate feed screw motor The setuppermits milling at angles (Page 34) as well as avariety of complex lateral and transverse cuts, andcan be used equally well for grinding.

Here's how Ihe stub holder (left photo) and DB 62grinding arbor and DB 1 1 2 1 cup grindstones solvea tough sharpening problem. The tool mounted onthe 3-jaw chuck and DB 1210 Milling Table is af lycutter used for machining large holes in sheetmetal. The tip dulls rapidly in production and shouldbe sharpened to a perfect point, with a smoothlyrounded back edge. By sliding the Milling Tableover the drill press table a perfectly shaped groundedge was obtained.

Here's a sharpening problem that a machinistsolved with Unimat parts (center photo). The millingcutter gripped in the 3-jaw chuck is a 2½- inchdiameter face mill with teeth beveled at 60 degrees.Usually the sharpening job requires a special ma-chine. The mill was firmly chucked on its insidediameter in the 3-jaw chuck mounted on the Index-ing Attachment (DB 1260). This in turn was fastenedto the MilIing Table gripped in a swivel vise at theproper angle.

The drill press was used to set the depth of grind,and the cut made by slowly gliding the entire setuptoward DB 1121 Cup Wheel and arbor, mountedin the stub holder.

35

MEASURINGACCESSORIES

precision miniature machining requiresquality measuring instruments and aids...

Miniature Lamp (XR 20) has transformer in base. Throws high intensity light,bnghter than 150 watt bulb at some distance. Lamp arm folds for storage,measures 15 inches extended. Micro-Mike (XR 22) combines clear optical 20power magnification with 1% accurate rulings on giass within instrument.Examine drills, laps, lathe tools and work, and immediately see measure-ment. Touch tip of Mike to work, and image it automatically in focus.

Magna-Viewer (XP 51}permits you to seemagnified image ofsmall work, cuttingtools, e tc , fromcomfortable workingdistance. View it wideangle, clear andcauses little eye strain.Extra high powerauxiliary lens swingsdown over standardlens for up to 5.25power.

Precision work requires these two miniature2-inch calipers. Inside Caliper (DB 41) is on.left. Outside Caliper (DB 42) on right. Measure-ments can be transferred from one to theother, or from calipers to rules, micrometers,etc.

Toolmaker's Precision Square (XR 45), aboveleft, is best tool for layout of vertical lines,checking drill press and grinder set-ups. Hard-ened end tempered 2-inch blade guaranteeshigh accuracy. Two-inch Spring Divider (XR 43),above right, is used to measure distanceslengthwise on lathe work, and to scribe layoutlines and centers on flat metal work.

Five-inch magnifying glass (XR 21) gives youfull visibility and protects eyes too. Flexiblestand adjusts to any angle.

0-1-inch Micrometer (XR 70), above left, isevery machinist's most often used tool. You'llneed it to check drills, taps, screws. The thick-ness of sheet metal, and to measure workturned in the lathe. Above right, Vernier Cali-per (XR 60) is usefuf for measuring insideand outside diameters, thicknesses, etc. Readsfrom 0 to 5 3/8-inch.

The most Importanl measuring tool is XR 44Machinist's Combination Square. Blade is 4inches long. Comes with carrier head for mark-ing round stock, scriber and square, head.

Foot Switch Rheostat (XR 100) frees your handsfor better control and safety in sawing, drillingand lathe work. Cannot be used with induction-type Unimat motors. Use only with brush-typemotors. Built-in 100 watt rheostat controls speedfrom zero to full R.P.M.

Protractor (XR 40), not shown here, has a 6-inchblade and can be used to read drilling, milling,sawing, mitering and layout angles. One-degreemarkings, from 0-180 are numbered in bothdirections. Markings are sharp and fractions ofa degree can be estimated,

Adjustable Angle Depth Gauge (XR 47) is sup-plied with 6-inch rod for measuring hole toosmall for rule. Tool s e t s to every 15 degreeangle on the circle. Excellent for layout worktoo, and for checking grinding and sawingangles.

Use these inexpensive Safety Goggles (XR 53)whenever you cut steel or brass on lathe, andfor all grinding, polishing, buffing operations.

36

Model DB 200, UNIMAT BASIC UNIT REPLACEMENTPARTS LIST .

3-Jaw Universal Lathe Chuck, DB 1001

DB 1001/1 Back plate (adapter)DB 1001/2 Jaws, unground. set of 3DB 1001/3 Horseshoe clipDB 1001/1 Tightening barsSF 425 Flat head screw (4x25mm)

Drill Chuck, DB 1005

DB 1005/1 Drill chuck bodyDB 1005/2 Key

ACCESSORIES4-Jaw lndependent Lathe Chuck, DB 1001a

DB 1001a/l Back place (adapter]DB 1001a/2 Jaws, set of 4DB 100la/3 KeySF 430 Flat head screw (4x30mm)

Machine Vise, DB 1010

DB 1010/1DB 1010/1SF 58DB 1010/3DB 1010/4SC 612DB 14SM 410

Vise frameMovable jaws & guide plateFlat head screw (5x8mm) for plateStationary jawClamping screw & pinAllen head screw (6xl2mm)"T" nutFillister head screw (4x10mm)

Collet Attachment, DB 1020

DB 1020/1 Nose pieceDB 1030/3 Collet holder bodyDB 1020/3 Back plate (adapter)DB 1001/4 Tightening barsST 418 Flat head screw (4x18mm)

1020/2

Polishlng Arbor, DB 1030DB 1030/1 Back plate (adapter)DB 1030/1 ArborSM 418 Fillister head screw (4xl8mm)

Steady Rest, DB 1040

DB 1040/1 Casting with clamping plateDB 1040/1 j aws , set of 3SC 612 Allen head screw (6xl2mm)

for clamping jawsSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm)

for clamplng plate

37

1020/1

1020/3

DB 10 Lathe bed, complete with ways& cross slide (DB 15)

DB 10/1 lathe bed onlyDB 10/2 Bed waySC 635 Allen head screw (16x35mm) for waysDB 10/3 LeadscrewsDB 11 Headstock tapered clamping screwDB 12 Hand wheelDB 13 Nut for hand wheelDB 14 "T" nut

DB 15 Cross slide assembly, completeDB 15/1 Lower cross slideDB 15/2 Cross slide waySS 46 Set screw (4x6 mm) for waysSC 615 Allen head screw (6xl5mm)

for lower cross slideDB 15/3 Cross feed screwDB 12 Hand wheelDB 13 Nut for hand wheelDB 15/4 Upper slide r e s tSC 615 Allen head screw. (6x15mm)

for upper slide rest

DB 20 Headstock assembly, complete withspindle (DB 25), motor (DB 40motor bracket (DB 30) & Idler (DB 35)

DB 20/1 Headstock casting onlySC 630 Allen head screw (6x30mm) for

headstock castingDB 20/2 Hand feed lever & pinionDB 20/3 Clamping boltDB 20/4 Locking pin for clamping boltDB 20/5 Aligning pin for headstock (type i l l u s . )DB 20/5a Aligning washer (for earlier models)DB 20/6 Spindle return springSL 68 Locking screw (6x8mm) for spindle

DB 25 Headstock spindle assembly , completewith bearings, pulley & nut

DB 25/1 Spindle shaftDB 25/2 Ball bearing raceDB 25/3 Spacer sleeveDB 25/4 Spindle housingDB 25/6 Pair of Belleville washersDB 25/6 PulleyDB 26/7 N u t for pulley

DB 30 Motor bracket complete with Idler (DB 35)DB 30/1 Motor bracket castingSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm) for bracketDB 35 Idler bearings & pulley assembly, completeDB 35/1 Idler shaftDB 35/2 Washer for idler shaftDB 35/3 Nut for idler shaftDB 35/4 Ball bearing raceDB 35/5 Pulley

DB 40 Motor complete with cord, switch,pulley mounting screw & washer

DB 40/1 Pulley mounting screwDB 40/2 Washer for pulley mounting screwDB 40/3 Brushes (give motor specifications)DB 40/3a Caps for brushes (* * *)DB 40/4 Condensor for Induction-type motorDB 40/5 Cord switch

DB 41 Pulley for motorSF 515 Motor mounting screw (5xl5mm)DB 43 Motor, 220 volt

DB 45 Tailstock assembly, completeDB 45/1 Tailstock casting & clamping plateSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm) for

clamping plateSC 615 Allen head screw (6xl5mm) for

spindle clampDB 45/2 Spacer washer for spindle clampDB 45/3 Tailstock spindleSL 68 Locating screw (6x8min) for spindleDB 45/4 Tailstock spindle feed screw,DB 45/5 Bearing sleeve for feed screwSS 6B Set screw (6x8mm) for bearing sleeveDB 12 Hand wheelDB 13 Nut for hand wheel

DB 50 Set of drive beltsDB 50a Small drive beltDB 50b Large drive belt

DB 55 Tool post complete with screws & "T" nutsDB 55/1 Tool post without screwsSC 630 Allen head screw (6x30mm) tor mountlng

tool post (type illustrated)SC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm) for mounting

tool post (recessed bore type)SC 615 Allen head screw (6x15mm) for

clamping tool bitDB 14 "T" nutDB 60 Vertical column complete with

adapter & screwsDB 60/1 ColumnDB 60/2 A d a p t e rDB 11 Headstock tapered clamping screwSC 620 Allen head screw (6x30mm)

DB 61 Lathe dogDB 62 Grinding wheel arbor, washer & screwDB 63 Dead centerDB 64 Face plateDB 65 Slotted adapter screwDB 66 Allen wrenchDB 67 Wood storage case for UnimatDB 68 Operating & Instruction manual

REPLACEMENTPARTS LIST

ACCESSORIESJig Saw Attachment, DB 1070

DB 1070/1 Base casting & clamp plateSC 625 Allen head screw (6x25mm)DB 1070/2 Saw tableSC 615 Allen head screw (6x15mm]DB 1070/3 Top frame with leaf spring & clampDB 1070/4 Bottom blade clamp, bar & bearingDB 1070/5 Eccentric driverDB 1001/4 Tightening bar

Adjustable Hand Tool Rest, DB 1201a

DB 1201a/1 Casting with clamping plate & pinSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm)DB 1201a/2 "T" bar tool post

39/16-inch Circular Saw Attachment, DB 1230aDB 1230a/1 Arbor with washer & screwDB 1230a/2 Base castingSC 615 Allen head screw ( 6 x 1 5 m m ) for

base castingDB 14 "T" nutDB 1230a/3 Pivot armSF 410 Flat head screw (4x10mm) for

mounting table to pivot armDB 1230a/4 Saw table

SC615W 1230/15

SC615

1230/4

1230/3

1230/2

Flexible Shaft, DB 1250

DB 1250/1 Spindle complete with bearings,threaded housing, spring & nut

DB 1250/2 Spindle shaftDB 1250/3 Ball bearing raceDB 1250/4 Spindle housingDB 1250/5 Spindle shaft nutDB 1250/6 Bearing loading springDB 1250/7 Knurled ringDB 1250/8 Shaft complete with core, housing,

and knurled ringDB 1250/9 Shaft housing with knurled ringSS 68 Set screw (6x8mm) for sleeveDB 1250/10 Shaft coreDB 1250/11 Adapter clamp for headstockSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm)DB 1250/12 Threaded driverDB 1001/4 Tightening bar

Slow Speed Attachment, DB 1280

DB 1280/1 Motor bracket castingSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm)DB 35 Idler bearing & pulley assembly

(also see DB 35/1 to 35/5)

Power Feed Attachment, DB 1290

DB 1290/1 Base castingDB 1290/2 Base castingDB 1290/3 Bearing casting & bearingSC 615 Allen head screwDB 1290/4 Drive shaft, washer & nutDB 1290/5 Horseshoe clipDB 1290/6 Horseshoe clip & washerDB 1290/7 WormDB 1290/8 Worm & bevel gearsDB 1290/9 Pulley, nut & washerDB 1290/10 Gear guard castingDB 1290/ll Hand lever & springDB 1290/12 Handwheel with gearDB 1290/13 Pulley-nut for headstock

spindle pulleyDB 50b Drive belt, large

Indexing & Dividing Head, DB 1260

DB 1260/1 Indexing head castingSC 615 Allen head screw (6x15rnm) for

clamping index plateSC 612 Allen head screw (6x12mm) for

mounting unit on cross slideDB 14 "T" nutDB 1260/2 Horseshoe clip for Index plateDB 1260/3 Spring loaded locking pin with

threaded holder, spring & pinwith knurled head

DB 1260/4 Pin with knurled head onlyDB 1263/30 Index plate for 30 divisionsDB 1263/36 Index plate for 36 divisionsDB 1263/40 Index plate for 40 divisionsDB 1263/48 Index plate for 48 divisionsDB 66a Allen wrench, short head

SC615

1263/30-48 1260/3

Headstock Raising Block, DB 1310

DB 1310/1 Raising blockDB 1310/2 Double hole clamping bolt

Drawbar Spindle, Watchmaker's Style WW, DB 2600DB 2600/1 Spindle shaftDB 2500/2 Front roller bearing raceDB 2600/3 Pair of angular-contact rear bearingsDB 2600/4 Threaded bearing holder ringsDB 2600/5 Spindle housingDB 2600/6 Spindle pulleyDB 2600/7 Nut for pulleyDB 2600/8 Draw bar with hand wheel

SC612

Round Table, DB 1261DB 1261/1 TableDB 1261/2 Clamp with 2 screws, nut & washer

38

1270/8

1270/2

Thread Chasing Attachment, DB 1270

DB 1270/1 Mounting bracket castingSC 620 Allen head screw ( 6 x 2 0 m m )

for mounting bracketDB 1270/2 Guide rodDB 1270/3 Cutting arm casting with

pivoting tool holder baseSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm)

for cutting armDB 1270/4 Leaf spring for cutting armSC 612 Allen head screw (6x12mm)

for leaf springDB 1270/5 External threading tool holder

with spacer washerSC 620 Allen head screw (6x20mm)

for external tool holderDB l270/6 Guide rod return spring

DB 1270/7 Follower arm castingSC 6 2 5 Allen head screw (6x25mm)

for follower armDB 1270/8 Depth adjustment wheelDB 1270/9 follower only, (give t.p.i. size)DB 1270/10 Internal threading tool holderSC 615 Allen head screw (6x15mm)

for internal tool holderDB 1270/11 Adjustment screw for cutting armDB 1270/12 Spring stop collar & set screwDB 1107 Outside (external) threading tool bitSF 430 Flat head screw (4x30mm) for

mounting thread pattern on 3-jawlathe chuck

SF 435 Flat head screw (4x35mm) formounting thread pattern on 4-jawindependent lathe chuck

DB 66a Allen wrench, short head

cont'd

SF4101230/1

21/2-inch Circular Saw Attachment, DB 1230

DB 1230/1 Arbor with washer & screwDB 1230/2 Base castingSC 615 Allen head screw (6x15mm) for

base castingDB 14 "T" nutDB 1230/3 Pivot armSF 410 Flat head screw (4x10mm) for

mounting table to pivot armDB 1230/4 Saw tableDB 1230/5 Work guideSC 615W Allen head screw (6x15mm) &

washer to clamp guideDB 1001/4 Tlghtening b a r

DB 1230a/5 Work guideSC 615W Allen head screw (6x15mm) &

washer to clamp guideDB 1001/4 Tightening barDB 1230s/6 Blade guard with bracketSM 48 Fillister screw (4x8mm) for

mounting guard

1260/1

1270/7

1270/9

1270/111270/10 1270/3

1270/61 2 7 0 / 1 2

1270/1

102O/5

SC620

1270/1

Milling Table, DB 1210

DB 1210/1 TableSC 612 Allen head screw [6x12mm)DB 14 "T" nutDB 1210/2 Clamp with 2 screws, nut & washer

The speed of your Unimat headstock spindle dependsupon four factors; the motor, the belt arrangement, theload and the kind of cutting operation. The heavierthe workplece, the more load and consequent reduc-tion in speed. Your spindle will always tend to accel-erate up to maximum speed, however as you start tofeed a lathe tool, or drill, it will slow down slightly.If you feed too fast, the spindle may even s t a l l causingthe belts to slip. In this way, you have a built-in safetyfactor.

MOTOR LOAD TEST BAR

The R,P.M. figures listed in the chart were based onthis test procedure: an aluminum bar weighing 1 8 ½ -ounces, the maximum size that fits the lathe (withoutusing the Headstock Raising Block) was mountedbetween the 3-jaw chuck and the tailstock Ball BearingCenter. This bar (see photo) measures 55/32-inch long,by 15/8-inch dia., with 2½- inch dia. by 1/2-inch neck.Motors were run for a 15 minute warmup, and speedswere measured with line voltage held at 120.

BELT AND PULLEYS ON MAXIMUM R.P.M.

The basic Unimat provides eleven speeds. Two addi-tional speeds used for threading and turning largediameter work are provided by DB 1280 Slow SpeedAttachment. You can obtain other speeds by machiningyour own extra motor pulleys of diameter to suit.

SLOW SPEED ATTACHMENT DB1280

In maximum speed belt position with Drill Chuck and no otherload, speeds can exceed 10,000 R.P.M. This is not recommendedfor continuous use. Before using set-up # 6 or 9, be sure bearingsare free turning and well lubricated. Note that cutting and drillingspeeds under load will drop to 1 2 or less of the R.P.M. figuresshown at a l l speeds above 1,000 R.P.M.

SPEEDCHART

BRUSH-type: 16,000 (Spindle R.P.M. indicated in RED)INDUCTION-type: 3,600 (Spindle R.P.M. indicated in BLACK)

PulleyColor Code:

Spindle Pulley Intermediate Pulley Motor Pulley

900265RPM

1900700

RPM56003100RPM

2500725

RPM

36501000RPM

330100RPM

1700550

RPM

56002100RPM72004700RPM,

5000 81400RPM

5600 92300RPM

10 56001700RPM

11

with DB 1280 Slow Speed Attachment

750210RPM

NOTE: These speeds are listed only as a help in getting started. Optimum speeds depend on hardnessof materials, cutting angles, etc. It Is suggested that you make trial cuts at recommended R.P.M.,and then increase or decrease ifr better results are obtained. Keep a chart or notes of your own results.

Steel 1,400 950 590 310(Aluminum, Brass, Copper) 1,700 1.400 950 500Wood, Plastic 2,200 1.700 1,400 950

Steel I 1,700 1,400(Aluminum. Brass, Copper) 2,200 1,700Wood, Plastic ____ 2.200 1,700

9501,4001,400

310950950

Steel 370(Aluminum, Brass, Copper) 590Wood. Plastic 730

(Aluminum. Brass, Copper)Wood, Plastic

590730

All materials ___ 500 330 330 200

Metals (per stone diameter) 5,200 3,200 2,000 1.700

39

0-5/16" 5/16-3/4" 3/4-1" 1-2"MATERIAL I diameter I diameter diameter diameter

65

7

1312

4

21

3

Motor SpeedRunning Free}

Initially sold only to industrial users, UNIMAT hasalso become the leading, metal-working machine toolfor serious-minded hobbyists. There are years of funand satisfaction ahead for you with UNIMAT and thefascinating new hobby of miniature machining. You'll

have pride In accomplishment with the accurate results

that the versatile UNIMAT will give you. Pictured hereore but a few of the thousands of different projects

handsomely created with the UNIMAT equipment.

Designer Erv Edell, Chicago, III. machining mathematlcal model.

"Colt Peacemaker", 1/2 size replica 7 1 / 2 made of brass& wood by R, Stankiewicz, Bohemia, N.Y.

Above le f t Film Strip Carrier & Lens Adapter made ofaluminum by Dr. A. Tumolo, Brooklyn, N.Y.

Above right, "Little Dragon" airplane engine made ofaluminum bar stock by James Wilson, HazeIwood, Mo.

"Parrot Rifle" replica made of brass & walnut by Robert J.Slattery, Denver, Colo.

Aquarium Air Pump, made of brass & woodby Louis Herbinger, Bronx, N.Y.

Steam Engine (left) made of steel, brass & bronze by HenryLimbach, Belrose, N.Y. Wood ModeI Workbench (above) withoperating steel vise. Size 10" x 5" x 3" made by Richard Neff,

Houston, Tex. Below, 32" Underwater Spear Gun, made from scrap tubing & aluminum barstock by Gunsmith H.M. Nierling, Dania, Flo.

Photograph courtesy o fMechanix Illustrated Magazine,

copyright 1963,