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FALL 2016 Full Semester Course

Starts: September 6, 2016 Ends: January 24, 2017 Tuesdays 9:30 – 2:30 pm or 3 – 8 pm

Instructor: Joan McKenna [email protected]

619-588-2244 Blog: www.sewalongwithjoanie.wordpress.com

Sew Like a Pro !

Upcycling for Fit !!!!! You need to know how to sew to do well in this course. This is the third course in the program: The Clothing Construction Program.

Off Site Class Location:

Bayside Community Center

2202 Comstock Street Room 5

Nearest Cross Street: Linda Vista Road

San Diego, CA 92111

(858) 278-0771

Campus Location:

North City Campus

8355 Aero Drive

San Diego, CA 92123-1720

(619) 388-1800

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.sewalongwithjoanie.wordpress.com/

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For the First Day of Class: Print this Syllabus, Class Etiquette, and Advanced

Sewing Operations Portfolio Patterns PRINTED without scaling.

Take them with you to class.

Be prepared to take notes, computer register, & fill out other forms. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THESE.

Mission Statement for Hospitality and Consumer Science: Students completing courses or programs in Continuing Education's Hospitality and Consumer Sciences

department will gain knowledge and skills in any of the possible subject matter offerings

(foods/nutrition/culinary arts/hospitality/fashion production/fashion merchandising/textiles/interior design/life

management/consumer issues and personal development) in order to prepare for vocational careers in the above

and to positively affect one's quality of life. The vision is to increase professional development, expand course

diversity, enhance CE’s image and grow enrollments in HCS.

SDCE Student Learning Outcomes: Fashion Department Student Learning Outcome:

Students completing a fashion or fashion production course or program will be able to understand and apply

concepts, technologies, related skills and techniques by successfully completing class projects in order to

prepare for fashion careers.

Course Student Learning Outcome:

Students will be able to demonstrate advanced sewn product stitching & construction skills as evidenced by the

samples in their Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio, and the upcycling of 2 or more garments from their

own closet or from a thrift store using professional standards of workmanship. Learning confirmation will be

prevalent by the use and selection of fabrics, notions, interfacings, linings, and proper closure(s). The

completed garment should be properly stitched, hemmed and pressed.

Course Objectives: Upon completion of this course, the student will be able to:

1. Identify various fabrics and their uses.

2. Select and work with difficult to handle fabrics.

3. Solve fitting problems related to fabrics, and various figure types.

4. Choose and apply proper interfacings, linings, underlinings and necessary notions.

5. Master industrial, professional, and couture construction, finishing, and pressing techniques.

6. Enhance sewn product with distinctive details and applied designs.

7. Use timesaving techniques in garment construction.

8. Develop an Advanced Sewing Operations portfolio illustrating new techniques and skills acquired.

9. Demonstrate the use and maintenance of different kinds of home sewing machines,

sergers, cutting tools, other equipment, and supplies used in the construction of custom/designer styles.

10. Design and organize an ergonomically correct and safe workspace.

11. Identify and discuss employment possibilities for sewers in all the different facets of the sewn product

industry.

Method of Instruction: Methods of Instruction may include, but are not limited to: classroom lectures, classroom discussions, digital

and hard copy handouts, collaborative learning, peer training, demonstrations, internet resource websites and

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links for research, software programs, books on disk, text books, library building books, audio-visual

presentations, fandango field trips, guest speakers, completion of portfolios and other sewn projects,

personalized attention, and student projects. To get Individualized Help: Write your name on the white board

in descending order under the word "Help."

ALL My Syllabi are ALWAYS subject to change.

Module 1: A Taste of Textile Study

Week 1: September 6, 2016 – First Day of Class.

Note 1: This course is taught 2 times on Tuesday. There is a morning course and an evening course. There is

bound to be overlap. If you want to stay for part of one class and part of the other, this is possible, if you sign

into both courses. Just remember, your grade will be only in ONE course. The grade consists of your hours and

your projects.

Note 2: It is okay if some students do not want to follow the course syllabus. Just remember, you will NOT

receive a grade.

Introductions. Computer Registration. Use your CSIDs number. Student Learning Outcome Sheets. Phone

number and email form. Tools and Equipment supplied by the School. The syllabus. Classroom Etiquette.

Handouts and Resources on a USB. Keep up with assignments. Homework. All Levels Welcome. Laying out

& cutting in Bayside Community Center. Bring your own sewing machine from home to use or provide TLC

for the school’s machines. Signing out Sewing Machines to use/EROs. This course is taught in 3 modules:

Textiles. Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio. Upcycling for Fit. Optional Text(s). Lessons, Sew alongs,

& Demos. Receiving help and learning from each other. Always list your name & topic on the “Help”

board. Buying your project needs: fabric, notions, & lifetime sewing kit. Do the work involved - ONTIME. It

will pay off. Print: the Syllabus, the Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio Patterns (Print without Scaling), &

Classroom Etiquette at home. Bring at least a 4 gig USB. Buy for ONE project at a time. Email your absences

to me. Clean up at end of EACH class. What is Upcycling all about??????

FANDANGO: Saturday September 10, 2016 - Field Trip to Yardage Town, and Central

Sewing in El Cajon with Joan McKenna. Remember to bring your supply money. Homework: Preshrink your fabrics. If you are buying special interfacing, follow their

instructions. If you are buying regular iron on interfacing, you can pre-shrink it in your kitchen sink.

9:30 AM - Yardage Town. 1043 Broadway. El Cajon. 92021. Phone: 619-444-3208. Do NOT buy Serger Thread here. Buy woven inexpensive Light Denim, Woven Interfacing, some supplies 11 AM - Central Sewing East. 1125 North Second Street. El Cajon. 92021. Phone: 619-447-3244. To buy: Corner Template, Simflex, Mechanical Chalk Pencil, Bobbins, Schmetz Needles. ? Lunch ? MJ’s Family Restaurant 576 North 2nd Street. El Cajon, CA 92021 (619) 444-1902 http://mjsfamilyrestaurant.com/

Homework: Preshrink your fabrics. If you are buying regular iron on interfacing, you can pre-shrink it in your kitchen sink.

http://mjsfamilyrestaurant.com/

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Week 2: ____________– Topics picked. Computer Research for your Textiles Presentation. Remember to

bring your 4 gig USB !!!! The criteria for your presentation is as follows. Only pick ONE topic.

The presentation needs to be 10 minutes in length. Tell the instructor which topic you picked, so we have

no duplicates.

Fiber Properties & Content

Yarn Type and Size / Yarns per inch

Description of Fabric

Direction of Greatest Stretch - D.O.G.S.

Degree of Cover

Degree of Snagging

Ease of Raveling

Wrinkle Resistance

Drapability

Coloring Method

Surface Hand

Fabric Weight

Burn Test: Oder & Residue

Textile Finish(es) and Properties

Fabric Care; Colorfast; Fading;

International Fabric Care Symbols

End Use of Fabric: Official and Unofficial

How do you sew the fabric;

Tips & Tricks; Best Interfacing; Needles; Best

Stitches

Advantages & Disadvantages of the fabric

Interesting Fact(s)

Week 3: ____________– Fabric Identification by burning the fabrics. Starting a fabric sample book. Sample

page is in this syllabus. Research for your Presentation.

http://www.regalfabrics.com/index.php

www.fabriclink.com

www.spoonflower.com

http://www.britannica.com/

Week 4: ____________– Research. Presentations. 10 minutes in length.

Week 5: ____________– Research. Presentations. 10 minutes in length.

Module 2: Upcycling for Fit / Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio

Week 6: ____________– Bring in your 2 or 3 garments you want to combine. The instructor will go over

your possibilities with you. Layout and cut your Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio samples.

Week 7: ____________– Prep Work: Demo & Do: Fusing interfacing with a press cloth, Serging, and

Marking: Commandment #14: Thine Iron is Thy Friend. Homework: Finish up what you didn’t get to

complete in class. Individual and Group Help. Remember to bring Scrap Fabric to all classes plus all your

cut out fabric pattern pieces and patterns. Individual and Group Help. Work on your upcycling project.

Individual and Group Help. .

Week 8: ____________– Demos of the Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio. Grading chart is the last page

of this syllabus. Work on your upcycling project. Individual and Group Help.

Write in the Date Completed on your grading sheets for your portfolio. Keep & count all trials, failures, and successes in your portfolio !!!!!

Week 9: ____________– Demos of the Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio. Grading chart is the last page

of this syllabus. Work on your upcycling project. Individual and Group Help.

http://www.regalfabrics.com/index.php

http://www.fabriclink.com/

http://www.spoonflower.com/

http://www.britannica.com/

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Saturday, November 5, 2016 - Sew Pro’s Field Trip to the LA garment District and M & L Fabrics. $50.

Call Clairmont Sew Pro’s for details: 1-858-279-2500.

Week 10: ____________– Demos of the Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio. Grading chart is the last

page of this syllabus. Work on your upcycling project. Individual and Group Help.



Thanksgiving Break: November 21 - 25







Winter Break. Dec 19, 2016 – Jan 2, 2017. Classes start January 3, 2017.







Week 18: January 24, 2016 – Final day of class. Pictures will be taken. Student Learning Outcome sheets.

Individual and Group Help. Last DAY of Fall Course.

Textile Module Needs: 4 GIG USB (Bring to EVERY CLASS !!!)

1 + Yellow Scotch Tape. This tape is permanent double sided tape.

3-ring note book for fabric samples.

Upcycling for Fit Sewn Project Needs: Your Decision as to what you need. Of course, the instructor is here to help…..

Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio Needs: I do hope I listed everything…….. 3 yards woven solid colored inexpensive Light Denim fabric – 45” wide.

(This includes extra for shrinkage???)

1 yard of light fusible (iron-on) woven interfacing – 22 ½ inches wide.

1 yard fusible white Nylon or Polyester Tricot 22 ½ inches wide. (Sometimes called French Fuse) J

½ yard Tear Away Stabilizer (1 package Sulky’s Tear-Easy is fine)

Knit fabric scraps (Don’t go out and buy this. Only what you have lying around.) J

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NON-Matching GOOD QUALITY polyester-cotton thread****

****Gϋtermann's, Molnyke, Mettler, Dual Duty

NEVER buy cheap thread (I.E. Do NOT buy: Two Spools for a $1 threads.)

1 9 - 11 inch Jeans/Trouser zipper that does not match your fabric

One Fancy Box or shoe box

1 Gallon size Ziploc baggie

2 inch by 18 inch clear plastic C-Thru grid ruler

Bobbin(s) for the sewing machine you are going to use:

Basic Sewing Kit Needs: (INVESTMENTS FOR A LIFETIME !!!!)

Embroidery scissors

5 inch craft scissors

Fabric shears

Paper scissors

FABRIC tracing wheel and fabric tracing paper

Glass headed or quilter’s straight pins - Dressmaker straight pins #17 are fine……

Pins should be 1.5 to 1.75 inches long.

Regular Pincushion -- No magnetic pincushions in the classroom.

Frixion Pen(s) – with marker head. Manufactured by Pilot. (Iron heat removes the marks….)

Tailor’s Chalk (The squares or triangles)

Tailor’s Chalk Mechanical Pencil

Variety of hand sewing needles

Darning Needles

White basting thread

Press Cloth (This should be a single fold diaper or a “flour sack” dish cloth)

Point turner

Bee's wax

Simflex

Corner Template

Adding Machine Tape (Nothing Thermal. You can’t write on thermal tape easily.)

Thimble

High Lighter

6-inch sewing gauge

Seam ripper

Thimble

3/4-inch wide Scotch Invisible Tape (The packaging is GREEN plaid)

Fairly new Tape measure

Plastic Tool Chest or Fishing Tackle Box for your supplies

Pencils, Sharpie ultra-fine markers

Instruction book for your personal sewing machine and/or serger*

*ONLY if you plan to bring your own machine to class

*YES…the school has manuals for all our machines

Scrap Fabric (check machine EVERY TIME you begin to sew)

Needle Threaders

Schmetz or Klassé Needles - size 14/90 universal for straight stitch home sewing machines.

"Tooth Brush" Kit for rethreading, cleaning, small repairs.

1 Small regular screw driver and 1 with a Phillips head.

Looper threaders if your serger is NOT self-threading

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Optional Text(s) & Readings J.J. Pizzuto's Fabric Science Swatch Kit Ring-bound – Publish Date: September 20, 2011 - 10

th (current)

edition. Authors: Allen C. Cohen, Ingrid Johnson, Joseph J. Pizzuto The cost is $50 to $83 on Amazon. You

can make your own. You put the book together yourself... It comes with swatches in a specified order.

which are not labeled, so do not mix up the order of the sample fabrics. You will write in the book your

own information, it does not provide any information for you. If you need a book to help you organize

information that you have retained on textiles and fabrics, this is the one for you.

Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide. Second Edition.

Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting and

Alteration. Second Edition. Authors: Liechty, Rasband, Pottberg-Steineckert.

Alterations & Repairs 200 Q&A: Questions answered on everything from mending to makeovers. Author: Nan Ides

A Guide to Fashion Sewing –Note: Previous Editions are fine to use as your text. Author: Connie Amaden-

Crawford. New York, New York: Fairchild Publications/Bloomsbury Publishing

Sewing Patterns: 200 Q&A: Questions Answered on Everything from Understanding Patterns to Making

Alterations Author: Sophie English

Brown, Sass. Refashioned: Cutting-edge Clothing from Upcyled Materials. (2013.) Laurence King

Publishing. London, EC1V 1LR United Kingdom.

St. Germaine, Tasia. The Sewtionary: An A to Z Guide to 101 Sewing Techniques + Definitions. (2014.)

KP Craft. Blue Ash, Ohio.

Check www.Amazon.com or other places listed on my blog.

Best Website Help http://www.sewing.org/html/guidelines.html

www.youtube.com (You will need to search for videos…Some are excellent)

http://www.singerco.com/resources/

www.sewingsupport.com


Course Evaluation A student’s competency will be based on multiple measures of performance. Assessment will

measure the development of independent critical thinking and demonstrable skill in advanced sewing

techniques on fitted garments and technically accurate samples. Evaluation of the student’s ability will be

based on, but not limited to, the following criteria:

1. Self-evaluation completion of Course Student Learning Outcomes.

2. Identifying various fabrics in a fabric portfolio that starts a life-long study of textiles.

3. Textile presentation to the class.

4. Student/Teacher critiques of student projects. Quality is measured using apparel construction

competency standards.

5. Solving fitting problems related to fabrics, and various figure types.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=dp_byline_sr_book_1?ie=UTF8&field-author=Allen+C.+Cohen&search-alias=books&text=Allen+C.+Cohen&sort=relevancerank

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=dp_byline_sr_book_2?ie=UTF8&field-author=Ingrid+Johnson&search-alias=books&text=Ingrid+Johnson&sort=relevancerank

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=dp_byline_sr_book_3?ie=UTF8&field-author=Joseph+J.+Pizzuto&search-alias=books&text=Joseph+J.+Pizzuto&sort=relevancerank

http://www.amazon.com/

http://www.sewing.org/html/guidelines.html

http://www.youtube.com/

http://www.singerco.com/resources/

http://www.sewingsupport.com/


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6. Enhancing sewn product(s) with distinctive details and applied designs.

7. Developing an Advanced Sewing Operations portfolio illustrating new techniques and skills acquired.

8. Demonstrating the use and maintenance of different kinds of industrial and home sewing machines,

sergers, embroidery machines, cutting tools, other equipment, and supplies used in the construction

of custom/designer styles.

9. Design and organize an ergonomically correct and safe workspace.

10. Identify and discuss employment possibilities for sewers in all the different facets of the sewn product

industry.

11. 80% mastery of the skills embodied in the class assignments and course objectives.

12. Attendance and punctuality. Student must attend 80% of each class in the course. Missing more of the

course hours will affect learning, grade, and certificate earning ability.

Note: Certificates are NOT given for Course Completions. There are certificates given for Program

Completions. The Clothing Construction Program consists of 4 courses: Sewing Fundamentals 1,

Sewing Fundamentals 2, Sewing Like a Professional and Contemporary Tailoring.

Future Classes and Events: Saturday, November 5, 2016 - Sew Pro’s Field Trip to the LA garment District and M & L Fabrics. $50. Call

Clairmont Sew Pro’s for details: 1-858-279-2500.

Spring 2017: ??????

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Student Name: Date:

Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio Grading Sheet Presentation Student Date Completed Class # _____ 1. _______ 1 Closed Kick Pleat Class # _____ 2. _______ 1 Inverted Kick Pleat Class # _____ 3. _______ 1 Open Kick Pleat with mitered corners Class # ______ 4. _______ 1 Learning to sew one piece facings Class # ______ 5. _______ 1 Continuous placket for a shirt sleeve Class # _____ 6. _______ 1 Tailored men’s shirt 2 piece sleeve placket Class # _____ 7. _______ 1 Tailored men’s shirt 1 piece sleeve placket Class # _____ 8. _______ 1 Jeans Fly Zipper Class # _____ 9. _______ 1 Invisible Zipper Class # ______ 10. ______ 1 Knife Pleats Class # _____ 11. _______ 1 Box Pleats Class # _____ 12. _______ 1 Release Tucks Extra Credit: Class # ______ 13. _______ 1 Making Bias Class # _____ 14. _______ 1 Making self-piping Class # _____ 15 _______ 1 Making tubing Class # ______ 16. _______ 1 8 1/2 x 11 inch woven interfaced sandwich for buttonhole practice and perfection. Class # ______ 17. _______ 1 knit interfaced sandwich for knit buttonhole practice & perfection.

There is a possibility of 12 samples NOT including the 5 Extra Credit for your Advanced Sewing Operations portfolio. You are NOT expected to have all the samples. Do NOT stress over this. This portfolio is only the beginning. You will be adding to it as your sewing knowledge grows.

I certify that I have __________ samples. Signature: Date:

______ /12 x 100% = _______ % Mastery of Advanced Sewing Operations Skills. Example: 10 Mastered ÷ 12 Total Techniques x 100% = 83.3%

This is above 80% Student Mastery.

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