Making a Excalibur letter opener Prepared for Ken Jeberg By Ken Jeberg Trades Technology Teacher...

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Making a Excalibur letter opener Prepared for Ken Jeberg By Ken Jeberg Trades Technology Teacher Education

Transcript of Making a Excalibur letter opener Prepared for Ken Jeberg By Ken Jeberg Trades Technology Teacher...

Page 1: Making a Excalibur letter opener Prepared for Ken Jeberg By Ken Jeberg Trades Technology Teacher Education.

Making a Excalibur letter opener

Prepared for

Ken Jeberg

ByKen Jeberg

Trades Technology Teacher Education

Page 2: Making a Excalibur letter opener Prepared for Ken Jeberg By Ken Jeberg Trades Technology Teacher Education.

How to build a Excalibur letter opener

Page 3: Making a Excalibur letter opener Prepared for Ken Jeberg By Ken Jeberg Trades Technology Teacher Education.

Our objective

Is to assess the skill level of the students with a simple project and work our way up from there.

Also this gives them opportunity to learn on some basic hand and power tools, before you get into the next projects

There is much safety learned here also

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Material list

Need a piece of 3/16” steel rod ¼” shelf pin Bullet shell or whatever you have on hand that is

dimensionally suitable Polymer clay Buffing compound : 400 grit, 800 grit, 2000 grit

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Tools for project Vice grips 15 pound persuader Full tank propane burner Ruler 20 oz. hammer Black marker Wood c-clamp Stationary vice Portable drill Fine model file Buffing wheel

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Procedures for making the Excalibur letter opener

First you heat up the metal rod on the propane torch until the metal is glowing red

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• Then you pound the metal until you get the metal to reach its required dimensions

• As you hammer you want to hammer the metal out at least 10 centimeters

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• As you hammer you need to check the blade against the edge of the ruler to make sure your sword stays strait.

• You want the thickness approx. 1.5 mm• Width 1.2 cm

Make sure you hit the rod squarely and not off to the center or the rod will hook to the right or left.

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Now we shape the bladeMark 3.5 centimeters in the bottom part of the sword : This is going to be the smooth part of the

letter opener, so when you open a letter you don’t cut your fingers

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Shaping the bladeMake sure your piece is securely fastened before you begin the sanding Before you start sanding your rough edge you can

scribe in a line 3 mm in all around your sword where you want your sharp edge. This allows you to have a reference part so you don’t make to big of an edge

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Now you clamp down on your piece as shown in this picture : All you need is a fine hobby file, any bigger

would take to much material off, and you would damage your project

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Use your dremmal along the edge where your blade is being ground in, again make sure your project is secure. When using your dremmal do light passes the full length

of the blade

The grinding disc is preferred for the handle piece. Again do light passes so you don’t take to much material at once, that way you can make a nice rounded profile

Use a regular buffing wheel, with some buffing compound and you can really make a nice smooth shiny blade

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Form the guard

Heat a shelf pin until it glows cherry red

Pound the material on your sledge hammer head until You achieve this shape in this picture

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You can see here what you want the form guard to look like, so it is just a matter of putting this piece in a vice and clamping it down securely and filing it to itsappropriate shape

The above piece you can see has a hole drilled to sizeSo you can slip the guard up the handle : You want the holes so the piece is pressed

fitted on slightly Then you use regular acid flux solder to

bond the pieces together

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Cut the pommel You can use really what you have on hand, but this picture They are using a shell casing

There is no way set in stone to cut this off, they are using a drill and a hack saw to spin this end off for this project

Once you have your piece cut you drill a tight hole in the one endAnd press it on as in like as in the picture. When you have this piece in place you solder it

on with acid flux solder

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Solder, polish and clayMake sure your joints have been soldered strong, remember your joints are the pommel and guard

Then you start the polishing process: Use a regular polishing wheel, starting with a

400 grit polishing compound and finishing with a 2000 grit compound

You can polish until you get your desired finish, there is no time frame really with polishing.

The next phase is to shape some dark clay on the handle like inThe picture provided Also some blue clay in the pommel so it is flush

to the outer edges of the circle Then you bake this project in the oven at about

400 degrees C for about 25 min, take your sword out and you are done

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Go open a letter