8/8/2019 Making A Collar With A Stand

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m ak in g 'a E a l la r

with a

s t a nd< I J . Iron the interfacing onto~ the re)evant pieces and'then pin the under collar stand tothe under collar, right sides facing.Baste and then stitch themtogether, then clip into the seamallowance around the curveseveral times close to the stitchingline. Press the ~eam open. Nowstitch the neckband to ,the upper

collar in the same way. Pin andA

stItch under and upper collartogether around outer edges,right sides facing. Turn and press.

,. In the photograph above\I you can see all the patternpieces cut out and ready forassembly. All of the collar piecesare cut from single fabric, andthen the under collar and undercollar stand are reinforced withiron-on interfacing to give extra

support to the finished collar.Allow a seam allowance ofO.5cm

(ft") on seams of inner curve ofthe collar and the outer curve ofthe collar stand. Add 1em (t") onall other edges.

Dark green ~ upper collar

Light green =under collar

It is important to know

how to make up and attach

a collar with a stand

which is stitched on. This

technique is necessary

when making jackets and

coats which need a collar

that fits well and looks

smart. The stand is

inserted far enough into

the collar so that it

supports and shapes the

collar around the neck. You

will find the seamline is

invisible and the results

well worth the extra effort.

o

~ Baste the two parts of the~ collar together along thestand seamline, wrong sides

facing, and then top-stitch closeto the stitching on both sides ofthe seam as shown above. Care-fully pull out basting threaJs.

Now baste together the upperand under collar edges that willbe attached to the finished gar-ment along the marked seamline.

Top-stitch around the outeredges, following the directions forthe required distance from edge.

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fJ\ On the right you see the"'finished collar. Note how

the inserted collar stand allows

the collar to shape and curve

naturally around the neck without

creasing:or straining.

Now baste the collar to the neck

edge. If using a pattern with a

cut-in-one or attached facing, thecollar is stitched between the

garment and the facing.

If the garment is unlined, a back

facing piece is usually included. In

this case:stitch the shoulder seams

of the front and back facing and

finish the seam allowance of the

outer edges. Pin the facing to the

neck edge, right sides facing,

placing the collar between the

garment and the facing, and then

stitch all around neck edge in onelong seam.

lo t Trim the seam allowances

~ around the neck edge toO.Scm (ft"), and then clip into thecurve close to the stitching line.

Turn the facing to the inside of

the garment and baste through all

layers close to the seam line. Press

the seam lightly on the inside of

the garment, pull out all the

basting threads, and press once

more. Finally, sew the facing to

the shoulder by hand. Make a few

stitches which are firm, but not

too tigh.t, so that the shoulders

do not wrinkle.

~ This detail shows the

'iIcollar as it should look when the garment is completed.

The collar, stitched between the

garment and the facing, emerges

neatly and smoothly from theneck seam line.

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