makeupmakeoversexpertsecretsfor

stunningtransformations

byrobertjones

Thisbookisdedicatedtofourveryspecialpeople.Threehavepassedthroughmylife,eachofwhomIbelievearenowwatchingfromaboveasguardian angels:mygrandmother,CarolynWalkerScoville,who inspiredmetolovebeauty;BernardoAldrete,nooneeverbelievedinmemore;andDianePayne,atrueinspiration.Finally,themostimportant,andherewithme:ChipMcFadin,theloveofmylife,myrock.

partonegettingready

chapter1truebeauty

chapter2thewords

chapter3productknowledge

chapter4thetools

parttwomakeupandyou

chapter5colorchoices

chapter6canvasprep

chapter7skindeep

chapter8faceshape

chapter9eyeshape

partthreeputtingitalltogether

chapter10basicapplication

chapter11totaltransformations

chapter12modelsneedmakeuptoo

afterword

partonegettingready

embrace your own personal beauty—love who you are today andeveryday.

—robertjones

1

truebeauty

Thisbookisallaboutyou—whoyouare,whoyouwanttobe,andwhoyoucanbe. I trulyfeel thateverywoman isbeautiful. It isjustamatterofrecognizingyourbeautyandmakingityourfocus.

I have long been convinced that beauty is not just about possessing aperfectly symmetrical face. Obviously, it’s marvelous to be blessed withexceptionalfeatures,butnotallofthewomenI’vemadeupinmymanyyearsasaprofessionalmakeupartistwereflawless.SomeofthemostbeautifulwomenIhaveeverseenorworkedwitharebeautifulbecauseofwhotheyareandwhatcomes from within. Beauty comes from the expression and character in yourface—not just its symmetry. Itdoesn’tmatter ifyouareshortor tall,heavyorthin,orifyourfeaturesaren’tthoseofafashionmodelorfamousactress.Yourbeauty comes from self-awareness, self-confidence, and your own magneticpersonality.Actually,Ifeelthatself-confidenceisthemostimportantelementoftruebeauty.

Mygoalinwritingthisbookistohelpyoubringoutthatbeautyfromwithinby increasing your self-confidence about your outward appearance. I want todemystifytheartofmakeupandhelpyouunderstandhowtouseitasatooltobetterappreciatewhoyouare.Somewomenthinkmakeupisfartoodifficulttomaster,butit’ssimplewhenyoubreakitdown.It’smerelyamatterofusingtherightproducts,goodtools,andthecorrecttechniques.

Firstandmost importantly, letmesaythateverywomanneedstoremembershe is beautiful. By identifying your most striking features and accentuatingthem, we can make you look and feel more beautiful. Certainly one of thereasonsI lovebeingamakeupartist is thejoyitgivesmewhenIseehowmyworkcanchangethewayyoufeelaboutyourself.Nomatterwhatyourage, ifyouarebeautifullymadeupwithbrighteyesandahealthyglow,youwillexudeanauraofconfidencethatwilldrawpeopletoyou.

LESSISMORE

Modernmakeupshouldbesimpleandnaturalsoit’s thefacewenotice—notthemakeup.IfeelthatcosmeticsaretoenhancethefeaturesGodgaveyou,not tochange them.I’mnotsuggestingnaturalmakeupmeanswalkingaroundalldaylookingwashedout.Bysimpleandnatural,Imeanyourmakeuppaletteshould be suited to your complexion and should change with each season tocomplement the change in your skin’s natural tone. Sometimes I’ll notice awomanwho obviously hasmade an effortwith hermakeup but has chosen afoundationcolorthat’sallwrongforherskintone,orshe’swearingalipcolorthat’s far too dark or vivid for her. The concept that “less ismore” definitelyholdstrueformakeup.

Makeupismeanttobebeautiful,andbeautifulmakeupisallaboutthecolorsyou choose andwhere you place them—never about howmuchyou put on. Ialsothinkthatitisimportanttorememberthatthefaceisnotflat.It’snotone-dimensional,thereforedon’tpaintitthatway.Makeupshouldbeusedtoartfullysculptandaccentuateyourbestfeatures—thatistheveryessenceandpurposeofwearingmakeup.

YOURMAKEUPMAKEOVER

Keep inmind that there are very few hard-and-fast rules inmakeupand beauty. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And since beauty issubjective, everything discussed in this book reflects my own personalviews.Eachprofessionalmakeupartisthashisorherownstyle,asdoeachof you.Mine has been described bymany as the ‘Glamorous-Girl-Next-Door’—I guess because I think all women should look beautiful but beapproachable,andalittleglamourneverhurts.Iwanttohelpyoudiscoveryourownpersonal style.Whatever the seasonor event,beautifulmakeupwill boost your self-confidence, which in turn will make you feel goodabout yourself, which will translate into true beauty. So read on—experiment with your makeup— have fun with it, and together we’lldiscoveramoreself-confidentandbeautifulyou.

Makeup is meant to be beautiful, and beautiful makeup is allabout thecolorsyouchooseandwhereyouplacethem—neverabouthowmuchyouputon.

—robertjones

2

thewords

Mastering the art of makeup application begins with knowingsome of the basic terms. As you read through the next couple ofpages,you’llfindthedefinitionsforsomeofthemostcommonlyusedwordsinthemakeupbusiness.Gettoknowandunderstandthem,andyou’llsoonbetalkinglikeamakeuppro.

Blush is foraddingawonderfullywarmglow to the face. It canbrightenthedullestofskin.IfyourcheeksarenaturallyrosyyoumightskiptheblushandleavetheglowuptoMotherNature.

Concealer is a miracle product that hides everything your foundationdoesn’t. It makes broken capillaries, undereye circles, age spots and any skindiscolorationsdisappear.

Contour is theoppositeofhighlight.Everythingthatwecontourwepushawayfromtheeyetomakeitappearlessvisible.A“contour”shadeisusuallyadarker shade thatgivesyour featuresmoredepthanddefinitionbycontrastingagainstthelightershadesusedonyourfaceandaroundtheeyes.Contouringisalsothelaststepinthethree-colorlayeringtechniquefortheeyes.

Dewy often refers to foundation finishes that create a fresh and glowinglookwithaslightsheen.

Eyelinerisfordefiningand“bringingout”theeyes,thoughitisnotalwaysnecessary.

Eyeshadow is either applied lightly as a gentle colorwash or as amoredramaticlayeringofcolorandtexturetoenhanceandaddshapetotheeyes.

Foundation is a miracle product that evens out your complexion andcovers imperfections.Your foundation’s tonedepends entirelyonyour skin. Ifyourskin is lookingradiantandbeautifulwithouthelp, thenbyallmeansskipthe foundation and go to a light dusting of powder.However, if you do needfoundation, it comes in a variety of texture finishes such asmatte, satin, anddewy.Ifyouhaveoilyorblemishedskin,choosematte.Ifyourskinisnormalordry,youcanchoosefromanyofthefinishes.

Frost is about maximum sparkle and super-shine. It is also sometimesreferred to as iridescent. It is a fun, sexy look andworks best on young skinbecauseonmorematureskin,itcandrawattentiontothefinelines.Thetermisusuallyusedinreferencetoeyeshadowsandlipcolor.

Glossisasuperhigh-shinelipcolor.Itcanaddapunchofcolor,butdoesnotstayonaslongaslipstick.

Highlight is the opposite of contour. Everything you highlight comestoward you and helps draw attention to a specific area or feature.A highlightshadeisusuallyalightershadeusedonthefaceandtheeyes.Highlightingisthefirststepinthethree-colorlayeringtechniquefortheeyes.

Lipcoloristhequickestwaytosetthemoodofyouroveralllook.Youcango all out and define your lips with color, or you can smear a clear gloss orhealinglipbalmforthatpared-down,naturallook.

Luminescence describes a foundation with light-reflecting qualities thatcreatesaglowing,refinedlook.Thelight-reflectingpropertiescontainspeciallyshapedparticlesthatbouncelightawayfromsurfacelinesandwrinklestocreateamoreyouthfullook.

Mascaragivesyou those full, long, thick,anddark lashesyou’vealwayswanted.IfI’vejustdescribedyournaturallashes,aneyelashcurlermaybeallittakestospotlightyourbabyblues,browns,grays,orgreens.(Ifmaroonedonadesert island,mascarawouldbe thenumberonemakeupproductmostwomenwouldliketohavewiththem.)

Matteisusedtodescribelipsticks,eyeshadows,foundations,powders,andblushesthathaveabsolutelynoshineandappearflat.Mattelipstickstendtobedrier,buttheystayonmuchlonger.Mattefoundationsareexcellentonshinyandoilyskinsandarebestforimperfectcomplexions.Therearealsomatteproductssuchaspowdersandcrèmesthatwillhelpfightoilsduringtheday.

Metallicdescribeslipsticks,eyeshadows,andeyepencilsthathaveashiny,metalfinish.It’salookthat’sfantasticonebonyordarkerskin,buttooharshforlighterormorematureskin.

Midtoneisaneutral,naturaleyecolorthatyousweepacrosstheeyelidstohelpdefineandshapetheeyes.Themidtoneshadeshouldbeanaturalextensionofyourcomplexionandisthesecondstepinthethree-colorlayeringtechniquefortheeyes.

Opaque is a finish that provides absolute coverage, allowing nothing toshowthrough.

Porosity is theskin’sability toholdmoisture.Moisturizercan“evenout”theporosityofyourskinandhelpyour foundation,primer,orconcealergoonmoresmoothly.

Powder is for setting foundation. It gives your face a smooth finish andkeepsshineundercontrol.

Satinreferstoaformulationthat’sneitherasflatasmattenorasshinyasshimmer.A“soft satin finish” isoftenused todescribe foundationsand liquidcosmeticsthatgiveasoft,smoothfinishtotheskin.Satinproductshaveasheentothembutarenotshiny.Satineyeshadowsareparticularlygoodformatureskinbecausetheyglideonsmoothlyandaddasoftsheentotheskin.

Sheerisathinnerandmoretransparentfinishthatgivestheskinaglow.Itusually contains silicone that allows makeup to glide on easily. The productclings less and covers more smoothly without being opaque. Sheer productsseemtodisappearintotheskin,givingitasoft,morenaturalappearance.Sheerfoundationisfabulousformaturewomensinceithelpstheirskinappearbrighterandfresherwithoutdrawingattentiontofinelines.Andit’sperfectforyoungerskintonesthatneedtobeevenedout.

Stipplingisablendingtechniqueusedforconcealersandfoundations.It’sespecially effective for blending out the edges of concealers. It is a pattingmotion,usuallydonewithyourfingersorasponge.Stipplingisalsoagreatwayto carefully apply one product over another. Just place some product, such asfoundation,onyourfingertipsoraspongeandapplyinagentlepattingmotionsoasnottodisturborerasetheproductyou’vealreadyappliedunderneath,suchasconcealer.

Textureisthefinishaproductgivesyou—thewayitappearsonyourskin.Forexample,ablushcanhaveacreamyorapowderytexture.Foundationcanhave a dewy, creamy, sheer, matte, or satin texture. Lipsticks can be glossy,matte, or sheer. It’s always wise to match your textures powder on powder,crèmeoncrème.

3

productknowledge

With so many products out there, it sometimes seems hard toknowwhichoneisrightforyou.Well,neverfear.Together,we’lltalkaboutthevariousmakeupproducts,theirformsandwhatmakesthemunique,andhowtouseeachone.Aren’tyoufeelingmoreconfidentalready?

foundation

isyourmost importantmakeup investment. It canmakeyour skinappearflawlessandnatural,andgiveitahealthyglow.Itcancoverimperfectionsandblemishes,andsmoothoutunevenskintones.Wearingitcorrectlycandomorefor your appearance than practically any othermakeupproduct. It can also beoneofthemostdifficulttochoosecorrectly.

Whenmakingyour foundationchoice, thereare two things toconsider.Thefirstistomatchyourskintoneanddepthsothatyourfoundationlooksnatural.Secondly, it’s important to match your skin type with the correct foundationformula.Forexample,ifyouhaveoilyskin,sometimestheoilsfromyourskincanmixwiththeproductandmakeyourfoundationappearblotchyanduneven.Wearing the correct foundation formula for your skin type can help yourfoundationstayonlonger.

Myadvice?Spendgenerouslyonyour foundation.Thedifference incostofcosmetics fromonecompany to another isnotonlybecauseof thepackaging,but also because of the ingredients. The purer the ingredients, the moreexpensiveaproductwillbe.Higher-pricedfoundationsusuallycontainahigherquality of pigments, which last longer on your skin and appear much moreflattering.Cheaperfoundationscontainfewerandinferiorpigmentsthatusuallydon’twearaslong.Ifyouwanttotreatyourself,splurgeonthebestfoundationyoucanafford tobuy.Foundationandpowderare thebasesofyour look,andtherefore the most important makeup products. Save your pennies on lessexpensive color products so you can afford to play around and have funwithcolor.

Thanks tomodern technology,wehavemanyadvancedfoundations toworkwith, and they can appear almost invisible.You can choose from a variety oftexturesandformulasthatwillgiveyoudifferenttypesofcoverageandfinishes.Aproduct’sconsistencyandthewayitactuallygoesontotheskinisthekeytoeven,flawlesscoverage.Therealgoalforyourfoundationisforittolookasifyou’re notwearing any at all.You simply give the illusion of having healthy,beautifulskin.

FOUNDATIONGENERALLYCOMESINEIGHTDIFFERENTFORMS:

Stick foundation is essentially a neatly packaged crème foundation andconcealerinone.Bestfornormaltodryskin,itisagoodoptionforwomenwhowantmorecoverage.Itoffersidealmaximumcoverageforimperfectionsaswellascoveringruddyandunevenskintones.Stickfoundationwillgiveyouquickcoverage,butitcanlookalittleheavyonclearskinwherealotofcoverageisnotneeded.

Liquid foundation is themost readily foundand issuited tomost—ifnotall—skin types. It is available in formulations from oil-free, oil-absorbingformulastomoisturizingformulasandgivesvaryingdegreesofsheertomediumcoverage depending on the brand and the formula. You can purchase liquidfoundationinabottleoratube.Whenapplied,itgivesyoumorecoveragethanatintedmoisturizerbutlessthanacrèmefoundation.

Crèmefoundationissmoothandcreamyandisspecificallyformulatedfordry-to-normalcomplexions.Itgivestheskinanaturalfinishwhileofferingthehighestcoverage.Ifindittobethemostversatile,becauseeventhoughittendsto be of a thicker and heavier consistency, it can bemade sheerer simply byapplyingitwithadampsponge.Also,becauseofitsgreatcoverage,itcanevenbe used as a concealer if you don’t have severe undereye circles. Crèmefoundation isgreat fordry skin;however, ifyouhavedry, flaky skin,beware,because it can look “cakey” and the result can be slightly dull and heavy-looking.

Mousse foundation is actually a crème foundation that has a whippedconsistency.Itgenerallycomesina jarrather thanacompact,andit isusuallylighter and sheerer than its compact counterpart. It evens out the skin tonewithout appearing heavy. I use mousse-textured formulas a lot because theyseemtosinkintotheskinratherthansitontopofit.Theygivegreatcoveragethatappearsverynatural.Theyarefabulousonmatureskinbecausetheydonotcollectinfinelineslikeheaviercrèmeformulas.

Tintedmoisturizer isactuallyamoisturizerwitha littlecoloradded. It’sthe sheerest of all the foundations, and it’s perfect for use during the summermonthswhenyou feel likewearingnext tonothing. It evensout the skin tonewhileprovidingminimalcoverage.

Crème-to-powderfoundationisquickandsimple.Ithasacreamytexturethat dries to a powder finish, so usually no additional dusting of powder isneeded to set it. These formulas are kinder to oily skin than their crèmecounterpartsbecausethepowderhelpscutdownonexcessshine.

Powdercompactisadual-finishpowderfoundationthatgivesaquickandconvenientsheertomediumcoverage.Itissimplyapressedpowderthatcanbeusedwetordry.Useddry,itgoesonlikeapressedpowderbutgivesyouslightlymorecoverage.Ifindthatit’sperfectforyounggirlsbecauseit’slowinoilsanddoesn’t clog pores, and so there’s little risk of pimples appearing withoutwarning.And it’s great for touch-upswhen you’re on the go.Appliedwith abrush, it gives you sheer coverage.Appliedwith a sponge, it gives youmorecoverage. Applied with a damp sponge, it gives you even more completecoverage,morelikeliquidandcrèmefoundations.

Pigmentedmineralpowder is simplya loosepowder thatadheres to theskin,providingmediumto fullcoverage. Inaddition togivingyoucoverage italsocontainsvitaminsandmineralstohelptreattheskin.Itworksmuchlikeadual-finishpowderfoundationandissimpletoapplywithabrushorasponge.

concealer

comesinvariousformulationsandtextures.Differenttexturesofconcealersareusedondifferentproblemareas,soit’s important tomatchthetexturewiththeproblemarea.Forexample,aconcealerusedtocoverundereyeareasshouldalwaysbemoistandcreamy,whereasaconcealerdesignedtocoverbreakoutsorbrokencapillariesshouldbemuchdrierintexturesoitwilladherebetterandlastlonger.

Solid cream stick concealers give full coverage but are not always theeasiesttoblend.Theyareusedprimarilyforhidingsomeofthemoreprominentblemishesandskindiscoloration.Theycanalsobeused tominimizeundereyecircles, but if you’re going to use this texture, make sure the consistency iscreamyenoughtoblendwellsoasnot toaccentuatefine lines.Sincethemostdelicateskinisundertheeyes,usingahard-to-blendstickconcealercanactuallymakethecircleslookfarworsebydrawingattentiontothem.

Pot concealer provides similar coverage to stick, but it is usuallyformulatedwithmoremoisturizingingredientsandisnotquiteasthick—muchbetter for underneath the eyes. This is the concealer that’s probably themostcommonly used by professionals because of the great coverage it gives.Althoughusuallycreamy, it isalsoavailable indrier,oil-freeformulas thatareusedtocoverdiscolorationontherestoftheface.

Tube concealer has a creamier texture that is lighter and less likely tocollect in fine lines,making it great formature skin. It’s alsooneof themostversatileformsofconcealer.Itprovidesterrificcoverageandcanbemixedwithmoisturizeror foundation tocreateamuchsheererproduct. It’salsoperfect touseundertheeyesbecauseit’soneoftheeasiesttoblend.

Wand concealers offer the lightest texture and are excellent for evenlysmoothing skin tones. If theproper shade is used, youmayapply itwithout afoundationbecauseitwillblendeasilyintobareskin.Wandconcealersprovideaquicker,slightlydensercoveragethanliquidfoundation,andthey’reabsolutelyfabulousforafastrepair.Somedrytoapowderfinishthat’sgreatforcoveringfacialblemishesbecausethepowderclings,enablingittobelongerwearing.

Pencil concealers effectively cover tiny imperfections such as brokencapillaries,blemishesandothertinyflaws.Yousimplydrawiton.Withanexactcolormatch,theycanbepinpointedwithoutblending.Pencilconcealersarealsoterrificforfixingliplines.

Oil-freecompactconcealerformulationsarebestusedonthefacetohidepimplesandspots.Theyareusuallyofalonger-wearing,driertexturethatwon’tirritate breakouts. Because of their wearability they are also effective forcoveringagespotsandhyperpigmentation.

Highlightreflecting products thankfully are now available. They help tohideflawsbutdon’tactuallycover.Insteadtheyhavelight-reflectingpropertiesthatrefractlighttohelpminimizeshadowedareas.Inotherwords,theyhighlight(bring out) recessed areas such as the dark shadows created by bags andwrinkles.Yousimplyapplyittotheshadowedareaanditbrightensit,makingitappear less distinct. You should apply them sparingly. Too often they areconfusedwithconcealers,whichtheymostdefinitelyarenot!

powder

providesstayingpowerforyourmakeup—itwon’tlastthedaywithoutit.Ithelpsabsorbtheskin’snaturaloilstohelpcontrolshinethroughouttheday.Andit’s the finishingstep thathelpsyour skinappear smoothandnatural.Youcanevenbrushitonoveraclean,moisturizedfaceforafresh,no-makeuplook.

Mostfacepowderismadefromtwobases:cornstarchandtalcum.Itbasicallycomesintwoforms,looseandpressed.Usealoosepowdertosetyourmakeup.Itworksbestandlastslongest.Loosepowdercontainsmoreoilabsorbersthanpressed, so it is thebest choice foroily skin.Ofcourse, ifyou travel, pressedpowder is farmore convenient to take alongwith you. Powder is an absolutemust for oily skin. It absorbs extra oil from the skin and can be reappliedthroughout theday.Thefinerapowder ismilled, thehigher thequality,so theless likely it is to cake on the skin. Finer-milled powders will feelmore likevelvet,whereasless-milledpowdersfeelmoregritty.

eyebrow

colorisavailableinfourformulas:

Pencilisthemostpreciseandcommonwaytodefinethebrows.Itusuallyhasaslightlymorewaxyconsistencythanothermakeuppencilstohelpitadherebetter tothebrowsandlast longer.Ifyoupreferabrowpencil,makesureit issharpened,becausethesharperthepoint,thebettertheapplication.

Powder brow color is a matte, no-shimmer powder with a very highpigmentcontent.Itisusuallyappliedwithabrushandcanbeusedtosetbrowcrèmesandpencils tohelp them last longer.Powderprovides themostnaturallookwhenfillinginyourbrows.

Crèmeisthemostdramaticlookingandhastheleastnaturalappearance.Itisamattecrèmethatisappliedwithabrush,andit’sbesttosetitwithpowdersoitwilllast.Itgivesyouthemostopaquecoverage,whichissometimesneeded.

Browgelisbasicallyahairgelforthebrows.It’sgreatforunrulyeyebrowsbecause it helps keep the brows in place.Browgels are available in tinted orclearformulas.

Tip:Makesuretheeyebrowpencilyouchooseisnottoowaxy,oritwillbe

hardtoapplyevenlywithoutlookingharshorfake.

mascara

generallycomesinthreeformulas:

Thickening mascara coats each individual lash from root to tip withparticlesthataddbulktothelashesandhelpthemtolookthickandfull.

Lengtheningmascaracontainsplasticpolymersthatclingjusttothetipsofthelashes,makingthemappearlonger.

Definingmascaracoats the individual lashes,keeping themseparatedanddefined.Definingmascarausuallyappearsthemostnatural.

Most mascara is also available in a waterproof formula. However, unlessyou’resusceptibletoallergiesthatmakeyoureyeswater,youmightnotwantawaterproof mascara because it’s harder to remove and can damage delicatelashes. Also, women with sensitive eyes might want to stay away fromwaterproofbecauseitisthemostirritatingofallformulas.

Mostwomendon’t realize that themascarawand is just as important to thefinishedresultofyourlashesasthemascaraformula.

Therearefourbasicbrushshapes.

•Acrescent-shapedwandthathelpskeepyourlashescurledasyouapplyyourmascara.

•Afat,bristlywandthathelpstothickenbycoatingeachandeverylash.

•Awand that looksmuch likea screw,andeitherhasvery shortbristlesornonewhatsoever.Itallowsyoutodefineyourlashesbypaintingeachonerightdowntotheroot.

•Adouble-taperedwandisawandwithsmallerbristlesateachend,taperingtofatteronesinthecenter.Itworksverynicelytodefineeachthin,sparselashwhileaddingalittlebulk.

It’s always better to apply two thin coats ofmascara rather than one thick,“clumpy”coat.Ipersonallypreferthick,voluminous-lookinglashes.Ithinktheyhelpdefinetheeyesandtheylooksomuchmoreglamorousthanthin,spidery-lookinglashes.

eyeliner

comesinfourbasicformulas:

Liquid eyeliner is a colored liquid that is applied with a fine-tip brush.Liquidstaysonthelongestandlooksthemostdramatic.Youcanalsofinditinfelt-tip pens or with a pointed, sponge-tip applicator. Liquid liner is a goodchoicetousewithstripfalseeyelashesbecauseitsuccessfullyconcealsthebandofthelash.Liquideyelinershouldonlybeappliedalongthetoplashline,neveralongthebottomlashline,becauseitlookstooharshandunnatural.

Cakeeyelinerisapressedpowder-likeproductthatisappliedwithadampbrush.Itwillgiveyouasimilareffecttoliquideyeliner,butit’smucheasiertocontrol.

Crème eyeliner isusuallypackaged inapotand isappliedusingadampbrush. Itwill also give you a similar effect to liquid eyeliner. The fact that itdriesmuchquickermakesitmucheasiertousewithoutsmearingitallovertheplace.

Pencil is themostcommonlyusedeyelinersimplybecauseit’stheeasiesttocontrol.Therearemanypenciltexturesavailable.Somearedrierandharderandsomearecreamierandglideoneffortlessly. In thepast,manywomen felttheneedtosoftentheirhard,drypencilsusingalighteroramatch.Thankfully,most pencils nowcontain silicone that enables them toglideon smoothly andmakes them easy to smudge and blend. The best choice is a pencil with justenough silicone to glide on easily, but not so much that it smears or travels.Make sure your pencil is at least water-resistant so it will stay put and notsmudge.

Tip:Rememberthatsharpeningyourpenciloftenwillmakeiteasiertouse.

eyeshadow

comesinvarioustexturesandfinishes:

TEXTURES

Powder shadows come either loose or pressed.Both formulas vary frommatte toshimmerandfromiridescent tofrosty.Theyare themostpopularandtheeasiest tousebecausetheyblendsowell. Inmostmakeuplines, theyofferthelargestcolorchoicesinthistexture.

Crème shadowsareavailable inmatteandshimmer.Theyaregreat forawashofcoloracrossthewholelid.Becarefulbecausemanycrèmeshadowscancrease.However,therearesomecrèmeeyeshadowsthatdrytoapowderfinish.Theyworkthebest.Youcanalsomixcrèmeandpowdereyeshadowstogethertoincreasetheintensityoftheshade.

Liquidusuallycomesinashiny,metallicfinishandit’sactuallythehardesttouse.Sinceitdoesn’tblendeasilyyoumustbemoreprecise,soit’sbestwhenappliedwithabrush.Liquidisusuallyusedeitherasaneyelinerorappliedclosetothelashlineforcolorintensity.

Pencilshadowsareusefulforaroundtheeyebecausetheyaresharpenedtoapointandcanbeappliedwithsuchprecision.Whenyou’vefinished,youcansimplysmudge the linewithyour finger,asponge-tipapplicator,orabrush tocreatetheeffectyouwant.

Tips:For amore intense color, tryusingbothpowder and crème shadows

together.Rememberthatpowderontopofcrèmewillhinderblending,butyoustillalwaysbeginwiththecrème.Itcontradicts theruleofcrème-on-crème,powder-on-powder—butitworks.

Youcanalsouseyourpowdershadowaseyeliner.Simplyapplyitwetordryusingabrush.

Some powder shadows are harder-pressed andmore powdery, whileothershaveaslightlycreamytexture.

FINISHES

Matteisthebestforcreatinganaturalno-makeuplookandisthebestfinish for midtone shades because of its natural appearance. It usuallycontainsahigherlevelofcolorpigmentandworksreallywellforreshapinganddefiningtheeye.

Shimmershadowsoffergreat,sheercoveragesothatwhenyousweeponthecolor,youcanstillseetheskinunderneath.Shimmershadowshaveasubtlesheenandgiveahintofsparkle.Theytypicallywon’tcollectinfinelines,whichmakes themaperfect choice formature skin.Light shimmershadowsworkgreatforhighlightingandbringingoutrecessedareasoftheeyelid.Darkshimmershadowsaregreatforaddingdramawithoutbeingasharshasdeep-tonematteshades.

Frostshadowsgivemuchmoreopaquecoverageandfeatureawhiteor silver sparkle.Theyusually come in fun, lightpastel shades thatworkbest on younger skin. Frosted shadows can easily sink intowrinkles andthereforedonotworkaswellonmatureskin.

Satin falls perfectly in betweenmatte and shimmer. It’s shinier thanmatte,butnotnearlyasshinyasashimmer.Asatinfinishworkswellonallskintypes,includingmatureskin.

blush

usuallycomesinfourdifferenttextures:

Powder blush is colorpigment set in apowderbase.Appliedwitha softblushbrush, itgivesadustingofcolor thatworkswellwithallskin types.It’sthemostpopular typeofblushbecauseit’s theeasiest tocontrolanduse—andit’s usually available in the widest range of shades. Powder blush is the bestchoiceforoilyskin.

Tip:Ifyou’reusingpowderblushdirectlyonbareskin,besuretopowder

yourfacefirsttopreventitfromlookingsplotchy.

Crèmeblushiscolorpigmentsetinacrèmebase.Ithasafreshdewyfinishthat gives the face a luminous, natural glow. It is great ondry skinbecause itslides easily over the surface. It works best when applied before you powderbecause itwill blendmore easily.Unfortunately, if you have oily skin, crèmeblush isnotyourbest choicebecause itwon’twearwell.And itdoesn’tworkwellonskinwithlargeporesbecauseit tendstoaccentuatethem.It’sgreatforthosewhodon’tneedorwanttowearfoundation.Justapplyitwithyourfingersoraspongeandworkitintoyourskin.

Gelblush isbasicallymadeupofcolorpigments thatarewrappedwithinsilicone particles. Itwill smooth very nicely onto bare skin to create a pretty,sheer, translucentglow.That’snot tosayyoucan’tuse itwithfoundation;youcan.Justmakesureyouapplyitbeforeyoupowder.It’slong-lasting,looksverynatural,andiseasytouse.Youcanuseyourfingersoraspongetoapplyit,thensmoothitintotheskin.

Liquidblushisactuallyaliquidthatstainstheskin.It’sterrificforallskintypes.It’sappliedlikethegelblush,butismoredifficulttoworkwithbecauseitmustbeblendedquicklydueto itsstainingquality.It’swaterproof,soyoucanexpectittolastallday.Justlikecrèmeblushorgelblush,youcanuseeitheraspongeoryourfingerstoapplyandblenditintoyourskin.

bronzer

isusedtogivetheskinawarm,healthyglow.Itusuallycomesinpowderandcrèmeformulas.

Powderbronzer,likepowderblush,isthemostpopularbecauseit’ssoeasytocontrolandblend. Itcancomepackaged inavarietyofways—pressed inacompact,looseinatub,oreveninajarpressedintosmallballsorbeads.Sweptacrossstrategicareasofthefacewithabrush,itcanbringtheskintolife.

Crèmebronzer,likebronzingpowder,isusedtogivethefaceasun-kissedglow.Youcanfinditintheformofastickorevenincompacts.Itcanbeappliedwithyourfingersorasponge.It’sgreatondryskin,orwhenyoudon’twanttowearfoundationbutwantalittleextraglow.

lipstick

isavailableinavarietyofformulas:

Matte delivers sophisticated and intense full-coverage color that containsabsolutelynoshine.Becauseofitsformulationitstaysonlonger,butitcanbedryingandmaygiveyourlipsthefeelingandappearanceofbeingdehydrated.Itis great in dark, intense shades because it stays put and won’t smear, but itcertainlydoesnothingtomakethelipslookyoungerorfuller.

Crème contains more emollients than matte lipstick and provides a fullcoverageofmoist(thoughnotshiny)color.Mostcosmeticlinesofferthelargestselection in this formula because it is themost versatile and popular. Itwearsquitewellwithoutbeingasdehydratingasmattelipstick.

Frostprovidesapale,shiny,metallicappearance.Butbecauseofthesinglecolor of sheen in the formula’s ingredients, there is a tendency for the lips toappeara littledry. Itusuallygivesveryopaquecoverage that isnotwonderfulformaturelips.

Sheer isactuallyaglossy,sheercolorwash thatallows thenatural lips toshowthroughbecauseitisnotformulatedtocoveropaquely.It’ssimilartoagelblushbecauseitissimplypigmentsmixedwithagel.Itlastslongerthanagloss,butnotaslongasacrèmelipstick.It’sterrificforaquickfixbecause,duetoitssheerness,itdoesn’thavetobeappliedwithprecision.

Gloss is a lip color with extreme shine andmoisture. It delivers a sheerlayerof color that is going toneed frequent reapplication.Although it doesn’tlast terribly long, gloss gives a fresh-and-alive look that’s perfect for all agegroups.Usedcorrectly,itcanmakethelipslookfullerandsexier.You’llfinditpackagedinawand,tube,orpot.

Lip liner is a pencil that’s used to define your lips. It helps correct lipshapesaswellasprevent lipcolorfrombleedingintofine lines.Itcanalsobeused over the entire lip, then topped with a color. Using a lip liner greatlyimprovesthestayingpowerofanylipcolor.

4

thetools

Apainterselectstherightbrushtocreatetheperfectstrokeonacanvas,andsodoesamakeupartist—butinthecaseofthemakeupartist, thecanvasisskin.Youcanchoosetherightbrush, too,withalittlehelpfromme.In thischapter, I’vefeaturedthebestbasic toolsfrommyownbrushcollectiontohelpyoucreatethemakeupeffectsyouwant.Remember:Makeupislikeaworkofart,anexpressionofyourinnerbeauty.Soexperimentandhavefun!

SPONGES

Themost important thing to rememberwhen selecting a sponge is that itshouldbemadeofahigh-qualityfoamrubbersothatitglidessmoothlyacrossyour skin. It can be any shape you like—round, oval, triangular, or wedge—whateverfeelsthemostcomfortableinyourhand.Useitforapplyingfoundationandconcealerorforblending.

POWDERPUFF

Thebestpuffsareusuallyfluffywithasoftvelourtexture.It’sagoodideatoinvestalittlemoreandgetagood-qualitypowderpuffsoyoucanlaunderittokeepitclean.Useitforapplyingpressedorloosepowder.

EYELASHCURLERS

This tool is used to curl the lashes, which helps create the illusion of“openingup”theeyes.Thisisamust-havebeautytoolforwomenofallages.

Thereisnowachoiceforthosethatareafraidofcrimpeyelashcurlers.Thiscurler (picturedbelow)will curl themost stubborn lashesbecause it usesheatandworkswithmascara.Itisusedaftermascaratocurlyourlashes.

brushes

The following brushes are from my own collection of simple beautémakeuptoolsandorganizationalproducts.Toseethecompletecollection,visitwww.simplebeaute.com.

EYEBROW

EyebrowBrush#2.Shapedmuchlikeamascarawand,thisbrushisveryuseful when trimming or grooming individual eyebrow hairs. Use it to helpbrushbrowsintoplaceandtokeepthemperfectlyshapedallday.

AngledEyebrowBrush#1.Thisbrushisperfectlyangledtoapplyacrèmeorpowdercolortoeyebrows.Thefirmbristlesalsoworkwellforblendingbrowpencillines.

EYELINER

FineLinerBrush#41.Thisflat,rectangularshort-bristlebrushisgreatforapplyingpowdereyeliner at thebaseof the lashlineor forpushingcolor rightintotherootsofthelashestomakelasheslookthicker.

LiquidLinerBrush#42.This thin,pointedbrush isperfect forapplyingliquid,crème,orcakeeyelinerwithprecision.

EYESHADOW

EyeshadowBrush#13.Thisprecision-stylebrush is perfect for applyingyour favorite shadeof eyecolor along the lower lashline.Oruse it to applyaverydefinedlineofcolorintothecreaseoftheeye.

Eyeshadow Brush #17. This firm, angled brush is great for applying amidtonecolorintothecreaseorforblendingeyeshadowshadestogether.

Eyeshadow Brush #11. This large brush is great for applying midtonecolorsintothecreaseandforall-overblendingoftheeyecolors—amustwhenyou’rewearingmorethanoneeyecolor.

EyeshadowBrush#12.Thisarchedbrushhelpsyoupreciselyapplyyourmostintenseshadeofeyecoloralongyourlashlineandintotheoutercornersofthecreaseofyoureyes.

BLUSH

Blush Brush #62. This full, soft brush is great for applying blush orbronzer.It’staperedtowardtheendtohelpyoublendasyouapply.

FoundationBrush#51.This large,smoothbrushhelpsyouevenlyapplycrèmeorliquidfoundationontotheskin.Perfectfor“end-of-the-day”touch-ups,it canhelp you create a smooth, even applicationover the foundationyou arealreadywearing.

Jumbo Powder Brush #70. This big, fluffy brush is great for applyingloose powder for a smooth, sheer and even application. It also is great forapplyingblushbecauseitcreatesasoft,subtleeffect.

ConcealerBrush#50. This tapered brush is used for applying concealerwithprecision.Itallowsyoutocoverspotsorflawedareasofthefacewithoutover-blending,soyouactuallyconcealwhatyoudonotwanttosee.

EyelinerBrush#40. The perfect brush to help you line and define youreyeswitheyeshadowor to applypowderoveryourpencil eyeliner to createamorenatural,subtlelook.

parttwomakeupandyou

5

colorchoices

Inthischapter,mygoalistohelpyoumakeeducatedchoicesinselecting your color products. Choosing the correct shade offoundationisextremelyimportant,sincethewrongcolorcanruintheoverall look of your makeup (and so can the wrong choice ofeyeshadow,blush,orlipstick).Together,wecanincreaseyourchancesofmakingthecorrectchoices.Let’sstarttheeducationprocesswithalittlefoundationhistory.

Allthroughthe1950sand‘60s—really,untilthelate1970s—womenweretoldthatitwascorrecttochoosetheoppositeoftheirnaturalskintonefortheirfoundation color. For example, if your skin had olive undertones, you used apink-based foundation,and ifyourundertoneswerepink,youusedanorange-tonedfoundation.

And then in the 1980s,womenwere informed that thiswas allwrong, andtheyshouldmatchtheirskin’sexactundertone.Soifyouhadpinkundertones,yourfoundationcolorhadtobepink-based.Ifyourundertoneswereolive,youputonanolive-tonedfoundation—well,yougetthepicture.

Then finally in the 1990s, the cosmetic industry discovered that yellowundertones, insteadofbeingundesirable,actuallymade the skin look themostaliveandnatural.Yellowis theonecolor thateveryonehas in theirskin, fromtheverylightestcomplexiontothedarkest.It’sjustthatsomepeoplehaveothercolors in their skin aswell, such as shadesof redor brown.Almost everyonelooksbetterwithsomeyellowintheirfoundation.Itcounteracts theskintonesyoudon’twanttoseeandenhancesthetonesthatyoudowanttosee.

Thankfully now there aremore andmore innovations in products than everbefore, so thatwithmost good-quality foundations, you don’t even know thattheyare there.Theyare sheer,yet totallycoverandgiveyou flawless-lookingskin.Itisstillabsolutelyessentialthatyoumakethebestchoiceforyousolet’stalkabouthowtomakethatperfectchoice.Wealreadydiscussedallthedifferenttypes,nowlet’sdiscussmakingtherightshadechoice.

SKINTONE

Let’strytomakethissimple.

There are approximately fifteen levels of depth to the skin. “Depth” is thelightnessordarknessofyourskin,withLevel1beingverypale(porcelain)andLevel 15 being very dark (ebony).When choosing foundation, there are twofactorstoconsider.First,youwantittomatchthedepthlevelofyourskin—i.e.,the lightness or darkness of your skin. Starting on page 52, I have providedphotosofeightbefore-and-aftermakeoverstoshowyouexamplesofskintones,ranging from light to dark. These photos will help you understand the linkbetweenthedepthlevelofskinandfoundation.

Second, you must match it to the undertone of your skin. The majority ofwomen have “warm” undertones. In my opinion, warmer skin always looksmore youthful.A very small number ofwomen have truly “cool” undertones.Theyhavedarkhair,paleskinandlighteyes.(ThinkSnowWhite.)Evenifyoustart out cool, theminute you go out into the sun, you becomewarm. If youcomefromcertainbackgrounds—Italian,Hispanic,Asian,orAfrican-American—you’rewarm.Ifyouhavebrownorgreeneyes,you’rewarm.Ifyouareabletotanwell,you’redefinitelywarm.

Oneofthebiggestmakeupmistakeswomenmakeisthinkingtheyhavecoolundertones when they don’t. That’s why it’s always important to conduct a“stripetest”tomakesureyou’rewearingtherightfoundationtomatchyourskindepthlevel.Onpage56,you’lllearnhowtoproperlyconductastripetest.

rhondashasteenFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:close-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tovisuallypulltheeyesapart.

APPLICATION:Contoured the jawlineandcheeks tominimize theirwidth. Highlighted the forehead to create the illusion of more width.Highlighted the inner corner of eyelids to visually push the eyes apart.Definedtheoutercornersoftheeyeswiththedeepestshadow.

sherrilsteinmanFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of the eyelids, making her eyes appearmoreopen.

APPLICATION:Contoured the jawlineandcheeks tominimize theirwidth.Highlightedtheforeheadtocreatetheillusionofmorewidth.Usingmidtoneandcontourcolors,applied,thenblendedthemtothehoodedarea,givingtheillusionthatthearearecedes.

lindabirdFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION:Contoured the jawlineandcheeks tominimize their

width. Highlighted forehead to create the illusion of more width.Highlighted the eyelid to brighten the eye, then concentrated on definingthecreaseandthelashline.

michelleboyeFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:wide-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tomakeitappearasiftheeyesareclosertogether.

APPLICATION: Contoured hairline and jawline to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,noseandchin.Appliedadarkermidtonetotheinsidehollowofhereyestovisuallypulltheeyeplacementclosertogether.

eleanorsimonFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tominimizethehoodedappearanceoftheeyelids,causinghereyestoappearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION:Appliedmidtoneandcontourcolortothehoodedareaofthelidstohelpthemrecedeandopenuptheeyes.Subtlylayeredcolor,startingwith one layer of midtone, then following with additional layers to help thehoodedareaappeartorecedenaturally.

lydiaduronFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelids, causing her eyes to lookmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION:Contoured the jawlineandcheeks tominimize theirwidth.Highlighted theforeheadtohelpcreatewidth.Subtly layeredcoloron the hooded areas of the eyes to helpminimize them and open up theeyes.

sonjahuntermasonFACESHAPE:roundEYESHAPE:wide-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:darkburgundy

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionofamoreovalshapedface.Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastoaddlifetotheface.

APPLICATION: Using multiple shades of foundation, evened out skintone,thenhighlightedareaswithagolden-orangefacepowdertogivelifetotheskin. Softly sculpted her cheeks, jaw, and temples. Highlighted the lid andcontouredtheinsidehollowofhereyestovisuallypullthemcloser.

alischiabutlerFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:darkburgundy

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastoaddlifetotheface.

APPLICATION:Usingmultipleshadesoffoundation,evenedouttheslightskindiscoloration.Themaingoalwastobrightenherface,whichwasachieved by using a golden-orange face powder to highlight areas.Contouredhairlineandjawtosoftenthe“fourcorners”oftheface.

foundation

Thebestwaytochooseafoundationcoloristoconductastripetest.Hereareafewfastrulestofollowsoyouwon’t“flunk.”Alwaysconductyourstripetestinnaturallight.Startwiththreedifferentfoundationshadestocompareandcontrast.(Theareawhereyouwill test theshadeswillvarydependingonyourskin tone.) Finally, if the shade you choose is the bestmatchwith your neckcolor,youwillpassthestripetestwithflyingcolors.

IVORYANDBEIGE

Ifyouhave ivoryorbeige skin tones, conduct the stripe test from jaw tonecktogetatruematchtotheneck.Womenwiththeseskintypestendtohaverednessintheirfaces,butnotintheirnecks,soit’simportanttogetatruematch.Startbyapplyingthreestripesofthedifferentfoundationshadesfromyourjawtoyourneckandwaita fewminutes tosee if theoils inyourskinchange thecolorpigments.Selecttheonethatmostcloselymatchesyourneck.

BRONZEANDEBONY

Womenwithbronzeandebonyskintonesshouldstripe-testfromthecheekarea to the jaw area, because somewomenwith these skin tones have “facialmasking,”orlighterskinontheinteriorofthefaceanddarkerskinontheouteredges of the face. Start by applying three stripes of the different foundationshadesextendingfromyourcheektoyourjawarea,andwaitafewminutestoseeiftheoilsinyourskinchangethecolorpigments.

If you have any degree of facialmasking, I suggest usingmy technique ofapplying two shades of foundation to perfect your skin tone: one shade tobrightenyourskin,andanothertodeepenit.Turntopage82tofindoutwhytwoshades are better than onewhen it comes to facialmasking and how to applythem.

CHOOSEYELLOWOVERPINK

As I said before, a shade of yellow foundation complements almost anyskintone.Theonlytimepinkisabetterchoiceisifyouhavepinkundertonesinyourneck aswell as your face,which is very rare.Mostwomenwithpink intheir facesdonothave it in theirnecks.Pinkfoundationon topofapinkfacecanbecomered—andnoonewantsa red face.Foundationsandpowderswithpinkhuesactuallyagetheskinandmakeitappearunnatural,yetmanymaturewomenchoosepinktogivetheirfacesmorecolor.Rememberthatcolorshouldbeprovidedbyyourblushandlipstick—notbyyourfoundationandpowder.

Yellow foundations can actually counteract skin conditions such as rosaceaandbroken capillaries.Womenwith these conditionsorwith ruddy skin tonesoftenfeelthatyellowfoundationslooktooyellowbecausethey’reusedtoseeingall the red in their faces. Give it time! Your skin will start to absorb thefoundationandworkwithitbetter,andyoureyewillgetusedtoseeingtheredneutralized.You’llsoonnoticeamoreeven,naturalskintone.

Incontrast,manywomenwithyellowintheirskinwilltrytocounteractthatbychoosingapinkfoundation.Thisisneveragoodchoice.Youshouldembraceandenhancetheyellowtonesinyourskintomakeitappearyounger,morefresh,andalive.

Women with ebony skin should match the undertones in their skin exactlybecause they are so distinct and noticeable. They can range all theway fromgolden-orange to true brown. Keep in mind that it is always a good idea tobrighten (not lighten) ebony skin. Intense golden-orange tones work well forbrighteningebonyskin.

concealer

IVORYANDBEIGE

You can get a lot of mileage out of concealers with yellow undertones.Yellow is the best color choice because it works to counteract most skinimperfections,includingthepurpleofundereyecircles,thebrownofagespots,andanyruddinessorredinthecomplexion.Themoreseveretheimperfection—suchasaport-wine stainorextremelydarkcircles—themoreyellowyouwillneedinyourconcealer.

BRONZEANDEBONY

Onbronzeandebonyskin,agolden-orangeconcealerforlightertomediumskin tonesworkswonderfully. For really deep tones of ebony, awarm-brownconcealerusuallycoversbest.

powder

IVORYANDBEIGE

Aswith foundation and concealer, a face powder with yellow or neutralundertones isusually thebestchoice. Inever recommendusinga facepowderwith pink undertones because it canmake the skin appear artificial and older.Yourgoalshouldbetofindaneutralshadeofpowdertomatchyourfoundationexactly. Or, if you want to warm up your skin or correct imperfections, youshouldchooseapowderwithyellowundertones.

BRONZEANDEBONY

Women with bronze and ebony skin tones should use a powder withgolden-orangeundertones tobrightenand freshen the skin toabeautifulglow.Thedarker the skin, themore likely that you shoulduse apowderwithwarmbrown undertones to give the skin a glowing, natural look. Dark bronze andebonyskintonesalsoshouldchoosealoosepowderwithahintofshimmertoit.Thiswillhelpabsorbanyoils in the skinandkeep it looking freshanddewy.Loosepowderswithamattefinishcanmakebronzeandebonyskinappearveryflatandashy.

Onemoreimportantpointaboutpowder:Translucentpowderisnotinvisible(transparent), though the twowordsareeasy toconfuse. It is lessopaque thanotherpowders,butitisnotcolorlessandcanoftenappearunnatural,especiallyondarkbeigeandoliveskintones.It’salwaysbesttochooseapowderthatisanappropriatematch foryourskin tone,orone thatbrightensyourskin.Theonetime translucent powder is helpful is when powdering areas that have beenheavilyconcealed.

eyeshadow

The most important thing to remember about choosing eyeshadowis...YOU!Lookatthecolorofyoureyes.Consideryourskintone.Thenselectashade thatwill bring out the natural color of your eyes.Your goal is tomakeyoureyecolor“pop”orstandout—notcompetewith,ordiminishyournaturalcolorinanyway.

Thecharton theoppositepagecanhelpyouselectshades thatwillenhanceyour eyes. Notice there is no blue shade suggested for blue eyes or greenshadowsforgreeneyes.Thekeyistoselectacolorthat’stheoppositeofyourowneyecolor.Forexample,theoppositeofblueeyesisawarmshadeofbrown,ortawny,orgoldenshades.

Brown-eyedgirlshave itbest.Theycanexperimentwithavarietyofcolorsand still enhance their natural eye color. So play to your heart’s contentwithpurple,green,gold,orbrown.Anycolorlooksbeautifularoundbrowneyes.

If you arewonderingwhyyoudonot see a categoryon the chart for hazeleyes,itisbecausetheyarenotjustonecolor.Hazeleyesareeitheramixtureofblueandgreenorgreenandbrown.Sodependingonwhichyouhaveyoucanplacethemintwodifferentcategories.Ifyouhaveblueandgreenhazeleyesyoucanchoose shades from theblueor thegreencategory. Ifyouhavegreenandbrownhazeleyesyoucanchooseshadesfromthegreencategory.Soitisuptoyoutodecide,don’tbescaredtoexperiment.

Skin tone is another thing to consider.Womenwithdark ebony skin shouldnotchooseaneyeshadowthatistoowhiteorlight.Likewise,womenwithfair,pale skinmightwant to stayaway fromeyeshadows that are toodark.Subtle,natural colors look better than dramatic contrasting shades—especially duringthedaytime.

Finally,youdonothavetomatchyoureyemakeuptoyourclothing.Makeupis an accessory to you, just like your clothing.Makeup isnot anaccessory toyour clothing. Matching your makeup colors to your clothes can sometimeswashyououtandmaynotalwaysflatteryourbestfeatures.Choosewhatlooksbestonyou.Applyyourmakeupasifyou’rewearingwhite,justlikethemodels

in thisbook.Thatwayyourrealbeautycanshine throughandnot takeabackseattoyourclothingoreyemakeup.

EYELINER

Nomatterwhatyoureyecoloris,chooseneutralshadesofeyeliner,suchastaupe, black, or brown, to shape and define your eyes. Colored eyeliners canhelpdrawattention toyoureyesbymaking thecolor“pop,”but I recommendsavingthemforwhenyouwanttomakeamoredramaticmakeupstatement.

eyeshadowpalette

Toshowyouhowsimplebutversatilemakeupcanbe,Ichoseabasiceyeshadowpalette(showninthechartontheoppositepage)tocreateeverybefore-and-after look in this book. I believe that, with this palette, anywomancanlookbeautiful,regardlessofhereyeshapeorwhethershehasanivory,beige,bronze,orebonyskintone.Noticethattheshadesfallintothree categories: highlight,midtone, and contour.Using these three depthcategoriesof colorhelpsgive shape toyour eyelids.To learnmoreaboutthissimpleapplicationtechnique,turntopage129.

blush

Blushcanbrightenyour face andmake it positivelyglow.The trick is tofindablushcolorthat’snaturalandneutralbutstillbrightensandaddslifetotheskin.Thebestwaytodecidewhatshadetowearistotakeaquickjogaroundtheblockandseewhatnaturalcoloryourcheeksblush.

Forivoryorlightbeigeskintones,ablushwithsoftpinkundertonesisusuallyyourbestchoice.Asyoumature,youmaywanttoswitchtoablushwithpeachundertones instead of pink to help your skin appear brighter and fresher. Thecolorpeachisamaturewoman’sbestfriend.Itcanwarmandenhancetheskin,whilepinkoftenappearsashyandartificialontheskinasitages.

Women with olive skin tones should use blush with warm undertones thathave a richness or intensity so the color showsup on the skin, such as tawnyshadesof cinnamonor sunnycopper. If youhaveebonyorbronze skin tones,you should also choose a blush with warm undertones, such as apricot orpaprika, to give your skin a nicewarmglow that appears natural. For amoredramaticlook,womenwithbronzeandebonyskintonescanchooseablushwithbrickredorredbrownundertonesformore intensecoloron theskin.Theverybestchoiceforallskintonesisablushthatlookssoftandnaturalandappearstogiveyouaglowfromwithin.

lips

Whenitcomestochoosinga lipcolor,sizedefinitelymatters.Ifyouhave full, beautiful lips, you can wear darker shades as long as theycomplementyourskintone.Wearlightershadesoflipcoloronthinlipstomakethemlookfuller.Thechartfoundherecanhelpyoufindtheperfectlipshadesforyou.

Skin tone is very important to consider before choosing a lip color.Womenwithivoryskintonesshouldnotwearchocolatebrownlipstick,forexample, because it can age you and appear unnatural— a woman withivory skin would never have that much brown in her lips.Women withbronzeskintonesshouldnotwearpale,frostylipshades,becausetheycanmakelipsappearashyandartificial.

Here are twomore things to remember:Dark lip colors age you fasterthananyothermakeupproduct.Andwarmer,morecolorfullipstickchoicesalwaysmakeyouappearyounger,becausetheybringoutthewarmtonesinyourskinandaddlifetoyourface.Solightenupandhavefunwithyourlipcolor!Thebeautyofwearing lipstick is that it adds life to your face andmakesitappearmorehealthyandalive.

6

canvasprep

Gettingaflawlessfinishbeginswithafewsimpletricksupfront.From perfectly arched brows to skin that’s been easily prepped formakeupapplication,you’llfindthatitdoesn’ttakealottogetresultsthateveryonewillsee.

browattack

Well-groomed eyebrows are a beauty must. You should embrace yournaturalbrowshape,becausenomatterhowmuchyoutweeze,youcannot turnthemintosomethingtheyarenot.Somebrowsnaturallycurveintoagentlearch;others grow straight across.Theonlywayyou can turn a straight brow into acurvedoneisbytweezingitawaycompletelyanddrawinginanewone.Butdonottrythisathome—oranywhereelse!You’llfindasimple,betterwaytofindthebestshapeforyourbrowsonthenextfewpages.

Beforewebegin,gatheryourtoolstogether.Youwillneedapairoftweezers,abrowbrush,asmallpairofscissors,andawhiteeyepencil.

Nowlet’sevaluateyourbrows.

First,aretheytoodense?Eyebrowsthataretoodensecanbesoftenedeitherbytrimmingthemorlighteningthecolor.

Totrimthem,simplybrushthemupandsnipanystrayhairsthatextendpastthe upper brow line. Next, brush them down and snip any unruly hairs thatextendpastthelowerbrowline.

Often,browhairsareactuallylongerthantheyappearbecausethetipsofthehairsarelightincolorandwhentheyreachacertainlengththeytendtocurl.Bytrimmingthem,youtrimawaysomeofthedensityandthatslightcurlsothatthehairslaydownmoreneatly.

It’s important toremember that ifyouneed to trimyourbrows, itshouldbedone before you start to tweeze.Otherwise youmight ruin your brow line bytweezingawayhairsthatshouldhavestayedbutweresimplytoolong.

Are your brows too pale, or are they speckled with gray? If they are, youmightchoosetohavethemtinted.Tintingwillhelpdefinethemandalleviatetheneedforeyebrowmakeup.

Nowit’stweezetime.

Thebest time to tweezeyourbrows is after a steamy shower. It’s a lot lesspainfulbecauseyourporesarealreadyopen.Trytotweezeinnaturallight.Youcanseewhatyou’redoingmuchbetter.

Afterpluckingacoupleofhairsfromonebrow,movetotheother,thenbackandforthafewhairsatatimetopreservethesymmetry.Alwaystweezeinthesamedirectionasthehairgrowsorthehairmightnotgrowbackproperly.

Agreattrickwhenpreparingtotweezeistouseawhiteeyepenciltosketchapatternoutline(atemplateofsorts)oftheshapeyouwantyourbrowtobe.Thisisanexcellentwaytogetapreviewoftheendresultbeforeyouactuallydothetweezing.It’sthenasimplemattertoremoveonlythehairsthatarecoveredin

white.

Tip:Take care not to overdo it, because sparse brows, especially on a

matureface,makethefacelookolder.

Youcanwaxunwantedhairs,butbeawarethatthehairsmaynotgrowback correctly because wax is pulled off in the opposite direction to thehairs’ growth.Also, awarning:Waxing repeatedlymay eventually give acrepe-likeappearancetotheskin.

HOWDOYOUDETERMINEWHERETOSTART?

Here’show tomake theperfect eyebrow take shape.Locate threepivotalpointsalongyourbrowlinebyfollowingthisquickexercise:

PointA.Holdapencilorthehandleofabrushverticallyagainstthesideofyour nose, noticingwhere itmeets the brow.That iswhere your brow shouldbegin.

PointB.Holdthepencilagainstyournostrilandmoveitdiagonallyacrosstheouterhalfof the irisofyoureye.Noticewhere thepencilmeets thebrow.Thisis thebestplaceforthepeakofyourarch.IfyoutweezefromPointAtoPointB, tapering the line slightly thinner toward thepeak, youwill create theidealshapeforyourbrow.

Point C. Again, place the pencil against your nostril and extend itdiagonallytotheoutercornerofyoureye.Whereitmeetsthebrowisthebestplaceforyourbrowtoend.IfyoutweezefromPointBtoPointC,taperingthelineeventhinner,youwillcreatethebestbrowshapeforyourface.

moisturizer

Moisturizing is an important step that helps your foundation go onsmoothlyandevenly.

Makesuretobeginwithafreshlywashedface, thenapplyyourmoisturizer.It’s best applied to a damp face because it goes onmore evenly.Moisturizerevenstheskin’sporosityandismosteffectivewhenit’slefttoabsorbforafewminutes before you apply yourmakeup. You can use a lightmoisturizer or aheavyone;justmakesureyouchoosetherightoneforyourparticularskintype.

•Moisturizersfornormalskinareusuallylighttohelpevenoutanydryareas.

•Moisturizersfordryskinareusuallyhigherinemollientsandarericher.

•Moisturizersforsensitiveskinarefragrance-andirritant-free.

•Moisturizers foroily skinare extremely light andwon’t clogpores.Manyhaveoil-absorbingpropertiesinthemthatactuallyhelpcontroltheoil.Oilyskinneedsmoisturizer,becauseitcanoftenbeover-driedbycleansers.Thebodyisso smart, it actually produces more oil to compensate for the over-dryness,whichonlymakesthecomplexionappeargreasier.Alightmoisturizerkeepsoilyskinfromproducingmoreoilandcanhelpevenoutitsporosity.

Tip:Neverapplymoisturizertotheeyelidsbeforeyoureyeshadowbecause

itwillcauseittocreaseandnotlastaslong.

Moisturizingyourlipsbeforeapplyinglipcolorwillhelpitgoonmoresmoothly.

primer

Primer is an optional makeup step that can do wonders for your skin’sappearance.Ithelpsyourfoundationgoonmoreevenlyandmakesitlastlonger.Primersometimescontains light-reflectingproperties thatreflect lightandhelpdiminish theappearanceofsomeofyoursmall flaws.So itcanhelpyourskinappearmoreperfectandhelpitstayfresh-lookingallday.Italsohelpspreventyour foundation color from altering due to your skin’s natural oils, because itcreatesabarrierbetweenthosenaturaloilsandyourfoundation.Simplyapplyitontopofyourmoisturizerbeforeyouapplyyourfoundation.

exfoliate

Youshouldexfoliateyourlipsregularlytokeepyourliptexturesmoothandsoft. A great time to do this is right after you shower. Just apply a generousamountoflipbalmandwaitafewminutesforittoabsorb.Usingasoft-bristletoothbrush,brushyourlipsvigorouslythenreapplymorelipbalm.Ifyouprefer,youcanuseatoweltorubyourlipsinsteadofabrush.Whichevermethodyouuse, always moisturize when you’re finished. Exfoliating your lips regularlyhelpsyourlipstickgoonmoresmoothlyandhelpsyourlipsappearyoungerandsmoother.

7

skindeep

We’veallheardorevensaid,“Myskinhasamindof itsown.”And in away that’s true. Everyone has a certain skin typewith itsveryowncharacteristics.Onceyouknowyours,itmakesiteasierforyoutoknowwhichfoundationsarerightforyourskintype.Seehowsimpleitistofindyourperfectmatch?

applyingfoundation

Selectinga foundation that’sperfect foryouwillprobablybeoneofyourbiggestmakeup challenges.That’swhy I’mhoping the information I’vegivenyouso farcanhelpmakeyourselectiona littleeasier.You’llalsowant toaskyourself the following questions before you set out to pick your perfectfoundation:

1.Whatismyskintype?

2.WhatcolorundertonesdoIhaveinmyskin?

3.HowmuchcoveragedoIwant?

4.WhattypeoffinishdoIwant?

Theanswersshouldhelpyoumakethecorrectdecision.It’salsoimportanttodecidewhattypeoffinishyouwant(seebelow),becausesomeworkbetteroncertainskintypesthanothers.

Matte is a great choice for normal/oily skin. It works best on skin withimperfectionssuchasbreakouts, scars, anddiscoloration. Itgivesyou thebestcoverageandisperfectforoilyskinbecauseitcontainsnooils.However,usealighthand,becauseifyouapplyittooheavily,itcanappearmask-like.

Dewyworksgreatondryskinbecauseitaddsmoisture.Itiswonderfulformostskintypesexceptoilyskin,whereitcanincreasetheshineandshowcaseanyflawssuchassurfacebumpsorblemishes.Dewyfoundationisnotthebestchoiceduringsummerorinhigh-humidityareasbecauseitcanappeartooshinyorgreasyinsteadofjustdewy.

Satinworksonalmostallskintypes,withtheexceptionofexcessivelyoilyskin.Itgivestheskinasoft,smoothappearance.Thefinishisnotasflatasmatteor as shiny as dewy, but falls in between the two. Satin is themost common

foundationfinish.

Luminousworkswellonanyskintype.Itslight-reflectingpropertieshelphidetinyflawsandlinesbyreflectinglightoffthesurfaceoftheface.

Whenapplyingfoundationyouhavethreebasictoolsatyourdisposal.

•A sponge is themost sanitary, because you canwash it or throw it away.Spongesalsoreallyhelpwiththeblendingprocess.

•Abrushblendswell,soitgivesyougreatevencoverage.It’salsogreatfortouching up the foundation you’ve worn all day. It’s always best to wash asponge or a brush after every application. The cleaner the tool, the better theapplication.

•Don’thaveabrushorspongehandy?Noproblem,becausethethirdtoolisyour fingertips. Justmake sure towash your hands after you’ve applied yourmoisturizerand treatmentproductsandbeforeyouapplyyour foundation.Theresidue from the treatment products can compromise the integrity of yourfoundationanddiminishtheamountofcoverageitprovides.

BASIC

It’s best to begin your application on the center of your face, dottingfoundation on the cheeks and the forehead, then blending outward. Alwaysremembertofinishbyblendingdownwardtomakesureallthesmallfacialhairslay flat. After application, blot with a tissue to absorb any oils left from theproduct.Thiswill reallyhelpthestayingpowerofyourfoundation.Besure tofinishwithalightdustingofpowder.

Tips:Thebestwaytoachieveanatural lookis tofirstgoallover theface

withasheerfoundation,thengobackanddotyourconcealeronanysmallimperfections.

Foundationcanalsobeappliedtoyourlips.Itcreatesablankcanvasforanyreshapingyouwantorneedtodo.It’salsousefulasananchorforlipsticksinceithelpsitstayonlonger.

SCULPTINGTHEFACE

Manywomenwith a full facewant tomake it appear slimmer.Themosteffective way to do this is to “sculpt” the face with foundation and powder.These tools can helpmake any face appearmore oval—the face shape that isconsideredtobethemostperfect.

No matter which products you choose, you should follow the same basic“sculpting” method. You will need to select three shades of foundation orpowderinthreedifferentdepthlevels.

1.The first color shouldmatchyour skin exactly. It is your true foundationcolor.

2.Thesecondcolor,yourhighlightcolor,shouldbeonelevellighterthanthefirstwiththesameundertone.

3.The thirdshade,yourcontourcolor,shouldbeone leveldarker thanyourfirstwiththesameundertone.Thereshouldnotbeadramaticdifferencebetweenthethreeshades.

Thediagramontheleftwillhelpyouunderstandthepurposeandplacementofthethreeshades.Youcanalsorefertotheface-shapediagramsinChapter8,startingonpage96.Besuretoblendthethreeshadesreallywell,becauseit istheblendingprocessthatmakesthesculptingmethodwork.

Step 1. Apply your first or true foundation color all over your face. Thenvisualizeor traceanoval aroundyour face.Thewidthof theoval isyoureyesockets;theheightandlengthofyourovalextendsfromthetipofyourforeheadtothetipofyourchin.

Step2.Apply your second or highlight foundation color to the high pointsinside the oval, including your forehead, under the eyes, on top of thecheekbones, and the tip of your chin. The features that you highlight will bewhattheeyewillfocusonfirst.

Step3. Finally, use your contour or darkest shade and apply it to the areasoutsidetheoval,includingthetemples,alongyourhairlineandthesidesofyourcheeks. By deepening the outside areas, you are visually helping those areasrecede,making your face appearmore narrow and oval. If you have ivory orbeigeskin,youwillcontouryourfacemorethanhighlight.Onbronzeandebonyskin,youwillhighlightyourskinmorethancontour.

Here’saneasytrickifyouwanttonarrowthewidthofyournose.Highlightdownthecenterofyournosethewidththatyouwantyournosetoappear.Thenplace the contour shade on the sides of your nose, this will make your noseappearnarrowerbecausetheeyewillbedrawnto thehighlightedarea.Ifyournoseisalittlecrooked,bringastraightlinedownonthetopofyournosewiththehighlightershade, thencontouralong thesides.Peoplewillnaturally focusontheline,makingthenoseappearstraight.

Tocompleteyoursculptedlook,youcanfinishwiththreeshadesofpowder:onethatmatchesyourtruefoundationshade,onethatmatchesyourhighlightershade,andadarkerorbronzingpowdertomatchyourcontourshade.Thiswillgiveyouabeautifully sculpted, three-dimensional effect that shouldmakeanyfaceshapeappearmoreoval.

FACIALMASKING

Ifyourskinhasanatural“mask”toit,thatis,ithasatendencytobedarkeraround the outer edges of the face and lighter on the interior of the face, youhaveaconditioncalledfacialmasking,whichsometimesoccursinwomenwithbronze and ebony skin tones.With a little practice, it’s easy to correct facialmaskingbyusingthefollowingsimpleapplicationtechniques:

1.First, it’sessential toconductastripetestacrossthecheekandthejawtodeterminethetwofoundationshadesyouwillneedtocreateamoreevenlook.(Seepage56forthistechnique.)Ittakestwofoundationshadestocorrectyourfacialmasking: one to brighten the darker areas andone to deepen the lighterareas.Thegoalofyourstripetestistofindthetwoshadesthat,whenappliedtotheoppositeareasofyourskin,meetinbetweenandgiveyouamoreevenskintone.

2.Applythelightestshadetothedarkerareasandblendwell.

3.Applythedarkestshadetothelighterareasandblendwell.

4.Finishwith the face-sculpting techniquedescribedonpage83, using twoloosepowders—onetomatchyournaturalcolorandonetohighlightthe“oval”onyourface,includingyourforehead,undertheeyes,ontopofthecheekbones,andthetipofyourchin.

phyllisr.sammons

concealer

Concealercanimproveyourskin’sappearancedramatically,butonlyifit’sinvisible. The secret to concealing everything that you do not want to see isapplyingconcealerjusttothediscoloredskin(learningtocolorwithinthelines,justlikewhenyoulearnedtocolorasachild).Tocoverundereyediscoloration(whichisreallybloodvesselsthatappearblueorgraywhentheyreflectlight),youneedtochoosetheperfectshadeandtexture.Ifyouuseaformulathatistoomoist, it can“travel,” slipping intocreasesand fine lines,drawingattention towhatyoudon’twantpeople tonotice.A formula that is toodry isbad for thedelicateskinaround theeyesandcandrawattention to thosesameflaws.Youmightneedtoexperimenttofindtheperfectformulaforyou.Youshouldchoosethesameshadeasyour foundation,orashadeor two lighter ifyouhave trulydarkundereyecircles.

If you’re using a concealer that matches your foundation exactly you mayapply it either before or after your foundation.But if you’re using one that islighter,itisbesttoapplyitfirst.

DARKCIRCLES

First,preparetheareaunderneaththeeyebyapplyingeyecrèmeandlettingitsoakinfortwoorthreeminutes.Blotawayanyexcesswithaspongeortissue.Usingeyecrèmewillhelpyourconcealeradhere,andiftheskinunderyoureyestends to be dry, your concealerwon’t “cake up” and give you an undesirableappearance. Remember, the undereye area contains fewer oil glands thananywhereelseonyourbody, so itneedsplentyofmoisture.Begenerouswithyoureyecrème,because it’snext to impossible to“over-moisturize” this area.Justbesuretoblotoffanyexcesscrèmeafterafewminutestomakesureyourconcealerstaysput.

Next,takeabrushandapplyconcealeralongthelineofdemarcation—wherethe discoloration begins on your skin. Extend the concealer up and over thediscoloredareawiththebrush.Youneverwanttoapplytheconcealerbelowthelineofdemarcation. Ifyoudo,youwill lightenskin that isalready thecorrectcolor, andyou’llbebackwhereyoustarted—with twounevenshadesof skin.Next,takeyourfingerand,usingastipplingmotion,pattheconcealeralongthelineofdemarcationtoblenditin.Besuretoconcealanydarknessinthecornersofyoureyesoreyelids,ifnecessary.

Seriousdarkcirclescallforseriousconcealer.Useashadeortwolighterthanyourfoundationandapplytheconcealerbeforeyourfoundation.Whenapplyingyourfoundation,besuretostippleorpatitonovertheconcealedarea.Youdon’twant to wipe away what you initially applied. Yellow concealers are a greatchoice for covering dark circles on ivory and beige skin. And golden-orangeconcealersworkgreatforcoveringdarkcirclesonbronzeandebonyskin.Bothconcealerscancounteractallshadesofskindiscoloration,fromredtopurpletobrown.

Tip:Ifyouhavemature skin, concealer andheavypowdercan settle into

undereyelinesandwrinkles.Sinceyouwon’twanttoaccentuatethemwithtoomuchpowder,useyourfingertiptodabonjustthetiniesttrace

rebeccafisher

UNDEREYEPUFFINESS

As painful as it is to admit this, you cannot improve the appearance ofundereyepuffinessbyswipingalightconcealerundertheeyearea.Bynowweknowthatanythingwehighlightonthefacemakesitstandoutmore.Ourgoalistodisguisethepuffyarea—notmakeitmoreprominent.

Youcanoutsmart thepuffy areabyhighlighting the area just underneath it.Because our faces are lit from above, the puffy area creates a shadow on theface. By highlighting the shadowy area, you will bring it out and make thepuffinessrecede.Becausemostpeoplelookdirectlyatyouandnotfromabove,your puffiness will appear even with the rest of your skin. Voilã—you’reflawless!

To apply, take a fine-tipped brush and apply a light-colored concealer justunderneath the puffy area. Then lightly blend it with your finger, using astippling motion. If you have dark circles as well as puffiness, which manywomendo,you’llwanttousethisthree-stepapplication:

1.Applyconcealertoyourdarkcirclesfirst.

2.Next,applyyourfoundationtotherestofyourface.

3.Finally,highlightunderneaththepuffinesswithyourconcealer.Thisisonetime that you will apply a lighter concealer after your foundation and notcompletelyblenditaway.Besuretouseastipplingmotiontoblendwell.

Tips:Using a concealer that’s too light will only draw attention to what

you’retryingtocover.

Concealercanbemadesheererbymixingitwithalittleeyecrème.

Youcan test coveragebyapplyinga littleconcealer toaveinon theinsideofyourwrist.

madeleinezeisler

skinimperfections

Let’s face it: Very few women have perfectly flawless skin. Everythingfrom sun damage to genetics can affect the surface of your complexion.Fortunately,thereareseveraldifferentconcealerswithdifferenttexturestohelpyoutackleyourproblemareasandhelpyourskinlookitsbest.

BLEMISHES

Tominimize facialblemishes,you’llwant touseadry-texturedconcealerso it will cling better to the blemish and not irritate the skin. Apply yourfoundation first and make sure to choose a concealer that matches your skinexactly. (A light concealer will only make the blemish seem larger.) Using abrush, apply the concealer directly to the blemish. Then take your finger and,usingastipplingmotion,blendtheedgesaroundtheblemishintotheskin.

BROKENCAPILLARIESORVEINS

Here, as always, it’s important to apply concealer only to the areas ofdiscoloration.Youcantakeabrushandactuallydrawalineofconcealerontopofthebrokencapillaryorvein.Thenstippleouttheedgestoblend.

ROSACEA

To counteract the redness of rosacea, you should use a yellow-basedconcealerandapplyitonlytothereddenedareasofyourface.Thenstippletheouteredgeswithyourfingertipsandgentlyblendintoskin.Finishbystipplingfoundationovertheareasoitwillmatchyourskintoneexactly.

HYPERPIGMENTATIONORMELASMA

Agespotsorbrownspotscanbecausedby toomuchsunorbyashift inhormones during pregnancy. To correct them, you’ll want to apply concealeronlytotheareasthatarediscolored.Otherwise,ifyouextendtheconcealerpastthe line of demarcation, youwill lighten skin that is already the correct color.Afterapplying,you’llwanttostippletheedgestoblendtheconcealer.Finishbystippling foundation over the area so it will match your skin tone exactly.Womenwithivoryandbeigeskintonesshoulduseanintenseyellowconcealer.If you have bronze or ebony skin tones, you should use a golden-orangeconcealer.

SCARS

Ascarisaraisedareaofskinthathasnopores,whichmakesitdifficulttoconceal because pores are whatmakeup clings to. To conceal a scar, apply adrier-textured concealer with a brush directly onto the scar. Then stipple theedges to blend it in. If you don’t have a dry concealer for scars, try thistreatment: Apply moisturizer to the scarred area, followed by a bit of loosepowder. Themoisturizer gives the powder something to cling to. Then take abrushandapplyconcealerrightontothescar.Theconcealerandthepowdermixtogethertoformadriertexturethatwillstick.

Rememberthatconcealersareverydifferentfromfoundations.Theyaredrier,moreheavilypigmented,andthey“grab”powderdifferently.Ifthereisanareathatyouhaveheavilyconcealeditisbesttousealightershadeofpowderonthisarea. If you use the same shade of powder as on the rest of your face, theconcealedareamayappeardarker.

Foracnescars,whichcreatetexturevariation,thebestwaytomaketheskinlookperfectlyflawlessistokeepitasmatteaspossible.Loosepowderisyourbestfriend,becauseitwilldojustthatforyou.Thelastthingyouwillwanttodoistotrytofillinthe“valleys”byapplyingtoomuchfoundationandconcealer.

annbrown

powder

Powderisamakeupmust.Itsetsyourfoundation,polishesyourlook,andaddsasmooth,velvetysoftnesstotheskin.Becauseloosepowdercontainsmoreoilabsorbers,Iprefertouseittosetthefoundation,thenusepressedpowderfortouch-ups throughout the day. There are several ways to apply both types ofpowder:

•Aspongeworkswellfortightareasandisgreatfor“spot”powdering.

•Abrushistheeasiestandmostcommonlyusedtool.Itisgreatforblending,butyoumustbecarefulnottoover-blendandbrushoffwhatyouapply.Forbestresults,applyalittlebitofpowderatatimewithabrush,insteadofapplyingitallatonce,toensuresmooth,evencoverage.

•A powder puff offers the best coverage and is my favorite way to applypowder.Pressapufforspongeintothepowderandthen“roll”itontotheskin.Pushingit intotheskinmakesyourfoundationandpowderappearasonewithyour skin and looks farmore natural. To finish, lightly sweep the facewith abrushusinggentledownwardstrokestoremoveanyexcesspowder.

•A fingertip works well for a light powder application. It’s a great way topowderunderneaththeeyes,especiallyformaturewomen.Justdipyourfingerin loose powder. Rub your finger in the palm of your hand to brush off theexcess, then trace your finger over the area underneath the eyes to set yourconcealerandhelpminimizefinelines.

Tips:Yellow-basedshadeslookhealthierandmorenatural.

Togetthatperfectshadeofconcealer,trymixingitwithalittleofyourfoundation.

8

faceshape

Everythingaboutyourfaceisunique,includingitsshape.Sowhywould youwant to put on yourmakeup the sameway as everyoneelse?Here,I’llshowyouthedifferentfaceshapesandteachyouhowtoapplyyourmakeuptoenhancetherealyou.

jamiecruise-vrinios

ovalface

Anoval-shaped face is considered bymost to be the perfect facial shapebecauseofitsbeautifulsymmetry.Itisusuallybroaderatthecheeks,taperinginslightlyatboththeforeheadandthechin.Becauseofitssymmetry,youdonotneed to contour andhighlightyour face.Youcanexperiment andplay all youwant.Anovalfacecansupportmostmakeuptrends—sohavefun!

carolaaron

roundface

Around-shaped face is fuller andgenerallyholds its youthful appearancelongerthantheotherfaceshapes.It’sshorter,fairlywide,withfullcheeksandaroundedchin.

IFYOUHAVEAROUND-SHAPEDFACE:

•Highlightyourforehead,underneaththeeyesjustontopofthecheekbones,andthecenterofyourchintodrawattentiontothecenterofyourface.

•Contouryourtemples,cheeks,andjawlinewithabronzeroraproductthatisoneortwolevelsdarkerthanyourskintonetocreatetheillusionofanoval.

nataliemcguire

squareface

Asquare-shapedfaceisthesamewidthattheforehead,thecheeks,andthejaw.

IFYOUHAVEASQUARE-SHAPEDFACE:

•Highlightdownthecenterofyourforehead,underneaththeeyesjustontopof thecheekbones, and the tipofyour chin todrawattention to themiddleofyourface.

•Contouryourhairlineatthetwocornersbyyourtemplesandthejawatthetwocorners.

•Applyblushontheapplesofyourcheekstohelpdrawattentionawayfromthecornersofthesquareandhelpwidentheareaandmakeitappearmoreoval.

kathypeel

heart-shapedface

Theheart-shapedfaceiswideattheforeheadandcurvesdowntoapointedornarrowchin,likeaninvertedtriangle.

IFYOUHAVEAHEART-SHAPEDFACE:

•Highlightthechintohelpbroadenit.Highlighttheforeheadandunderneaththe eyes just on topof the cheekbones to drawattention to the center of yourface.

•Contourthetemplesandcheekstodiminishthewidthofthisportionofyourface.

Tip:Pressedpowderworkswell forsculpting the facebecause it’s low in

pigmentandblendseasily.Or,ifyoulike,youcoulduseabronzer;justbesuretoblendreallywell.

karenpiro

pear-shapedface

Thepear-shapedfaceisnarrowatthetemplesandforeheadandwideratthecheeksandjawline.

IFYOUHAVEAPEAR-SHAPEDFACE:

• Highlight your forehead to create the illusion of width, and highlightunderneaththeeyesontopofthecheekbonesandthetipofyourchin.

•Contourthejawlineandthecheekstominimizetheirwidth.Tip:

Tip:Remember that the proper hairstyle can go a longway in balancing

anyfaceshape. In thiscase,bangsandhairbrushedover the templesaddfullnesstotheupperhalfoftheface.

michellemuslin

longface

The long face has high cheekbones, a high, deep forehead, and a strong,sharp,chiseledjawline.

IFYOUHAVEALONGFACE:

•Neverhighlightorcontouryourface.Thiswillonlymakeyourfaceappearevenlonger.

•Brushabitofbronzeracrossyourchintohelpshortenitslength.

•Begenerouswithyourblushandplacealotofcolorontheapplesofyourcheeks.Thiswillhelpwidenandshortenyourface.

•Bangscanhelpshortenthelengthofyourfaceaswell.

Tip:Whenapplyingyourblush,startcloserinontheapplesofthecheeks

andbrushoutwardacrosstheface.

9

eyeshape

To master the art of eye color application, it’s helpful tounderstandhowtheshapeandspacingofyoureyescandeterminetheplacementofcolorandtheeffectitcreates.Together,we’lllookatavarietyofdifferent eye shapesandapplication techniquesdevelopedtomaximize the individualityandbeautyofeach.Prepare tosee theworldofeyecolorapplicationinawholenewway!

susanfreeman

hoodedeyes

Hoodedeyesaresometimescalled“bedroomeyes”becausethelidstendtolook partly closed. Applied correctly, eye color can help hooded eyes appearmore open byminimizing the eyelid. Our goal is tomake the fleshy lid area“push away” or recede, and help your eyes becomemore prominent than theeyelids.

•Neveruseadarkeyeshadowovertheentirelid,becauseitmakesitappearheavierandwillcloseinyoureyes.

•Don’tbetemptedtohighlightthebrowbonetoomuch,becausedoingsocanaccentuatethehoodedappearanceoftheeyelid.

APPLICATION:

1.Highlightshade:Applytobrowboneandalongtheupperlashline.

2.Midtoneshade:Startat thebaseofyourupper lash lineandbringthe color up and over the entire hooded area. This helps the lid recede.Makesuretoblendtheareaswherethemidtonecolormeets thehighlightcolor.

3.Contourshade:Startatthebaseofthelashlineandbringthecolorup andover the hooded area. For this eye shape, youneed to bring yourcontour color in a little farther and up a little higher than on other eyeshapes. This will help the hooded area recede. Next, sweep the contourcolor underneath the lower lashes to define the lower lashline.Youdon’twant to miss this step! Hooded eyes really benefit from a well-definedupperandlowerlashline.

Tip:The eyebrow shape is very important here, because attention can be

divertedfromthehoodedeyelidwithabeautifullyshapedeyebrow.

pamshaw

wide-seteyes

Ifthespacingbetweenyoureyesiswiderthanthewidthofoneeye,youreyesareconsideredwide-set.Yourgoalistocreatetheillusionthattheyaresetclosertogether.

•Inthiscase,youneedtodarkentheinsidehollowsofyoureyenext to thebridge of your nose more than for any other eye shape. Deepening the colorhelpsthisareaappeartorecedeandmakesyoureyeslookclosertogether.

•Beginalldark-colorapplicationslightlyinfromtheoutercornersandblendyour shadow in and up instead of outward, because an outward blendingwill“pull”theeyeswiderapart,andyourgoalisto“pull”themclosertogether.

APPLICATION:

1.Highlightshade:Applytobrowboneandlid.

2.Midtoneshade:Starting from theoutercornerof thecrease,bringthecolortowardstheinsidecornerofyoureye.Besuretoapplyafewmorelayers to the insidecorners todeepenthecolorandhelpvisuallypushtheeyesclosertogether.

3.Contour shade: Starting slightly in from the outer corner, brush itacrosstheupperlashlineandupintothecreaseofyoureye.Alsosweepitunderneaththelowerlashline,beingcarefulnottoextendthecolorbeyondtheouteredgeoftheeye.

missybrumley

prominenteyes

Ifyoureyelidsandeyesareveryfullandtendtoextendfromtheface,youhaveprominenteyes.Thegoalhereistovisually“push”theeyeawayfromusandhelpitappeartorecedemoregentlyintotheface.Wedothisbycreatingalight-to-dark effectwith the three eyeshadows,with the darkest shade appliedclosesttothelashlineandfadingasyougotowardthebrow.

• Never highlight the eyelid, or you will make the eye appear even moreprominent.

•Adeeperorcontourshadeacrossthelidhelpstominimizeitandmakesitappeartorecede.

APPLICATION:

1.Highlightshade:Applytobrowboneonly.

2.Midtoneshade:Startat thebaseofyourupper lash lineandbringthecolorupandoveryourentirelid,allthewayuptoyourbrowbone.

3.Contourshade:Again,startatthebaseofyourlashline,andbringthecolorallthewayacrossthelidandupintothecrease.Thensweepthecontourcolorunderneaththelowerlashlineaswell.

judiemccoy

deep-seteyes

Deep-seteyesareeyesthataresetdeepintothesockets.Thebrowbonealsoextendsoutfartherthanwithanyothereyeshape.Thegoalwithdeep-seteyesistobringthemoutandmakethemmorenoticeable.

•Adarkeyeliddoesnotworkwiththiseyeshape.Youwanttohighlightdeep-seteyesasmuchaspossibletohelpbringthemout.

•Adarkcreaseisalsounnecessaryforthiseyeshape.Naturehasprovideditsown,sothere’snoneedtoemphasizeit.

•Thereisnoneedtohighlightthebrowbone,sinceitisalreadyprominent.

•Ifyouweareyelinerwiththiseyeshape,keepitveryclosetothelashlineandverythin.Athickeyelinerwillworkagainstyouwhenyou’retryingtobringtheeyeout,especiallyontheupperlid.

APPLICATION:

1.Highlightshade:Applytotheeyelidandinthecrease.

2.Midtone shade:Bring the color up above the crease and sweep itacrossthebrowbonetohelpvisually“push”thebrowboneawayfromus.

3.Contourshade:Applytotheoutercorneroftheupperlashline,thenupontothecornerofthebrowbonetohelp“push”theareaaway,orrecede.Sweepthecontourshadeunderneaththelowerlashlinefordefinition.

Tips:Never darken your lid, because it can close in your eyes andmake

themappearsmaller.

Fordrama,Ialwaysuseabrighter(notnecessarilyadarker)colorofshadow.

taylormoore

close-seteyes

Theaveragespacebetweenapairofeyesisapproximatelythewidthofoneeye.Ifyoureyesarespacedanycloser,youhaveclose-seteyes.Yourgoalistocreatetheillusionofeyesthatarefartherapart.

•Keeptheinsidecornersandareasclosesttothenoseaslightaspossibletohelpvisually“push”theeyesapart.

•Makesuretoconcentratethedarkershadesontheoutercornersofthiseyeshape.

APPLICATION:

1. Highlight shade: Apply to lid and browbone. Also apply to theinsidecorneratthebottomlashline.

2.Midtoneshade:Startingattheoutercornerofthecrease,bringthecolor in toward the inside corner to the browbut not all thewayover toyournose.

3.Contourshade:Sweepitacrossthebaseoftheupperlashlineandupintotheouterareaofthecrease.Sweepitunderneaththelowerlashlinefordefinition,exceptfortheinsidecorners.Applyyourhighlightshadetotheinsidecornersoftheeyetohelpyoureyesappearfartherapart.

Tip:Toopenupyoureyesandcreate the illusionof larger eyes,youcan

applywhiteorbeigeeyelineraroundtheinside“wettissue”oftheeyes(theinsiderim).

lisamadson

droopyeyes

Droopy eyes slope downward at the outer corners. They are sometimesreferred to as “sad puppy-dog eyes.” Your goal is to make the outer cornersappearasiftheyturnupratherthandown.

•Youcandothisbestbycreatingan“open-ended”eye,whichmeansyoudonot extend your colors to the outer corner of the eye where it begins to turndown.Byleavingitnatural,youactuallycreateavisual“lift”totheeye.

• When applying mascara, be sure to concentrate on the middle to insidelashes.Defined lashes on the outer corner of the eyewill only accentuate thedroopiness.

•Make sure your eyebrows curvegently outward—never in an exaggerateddownwardarch.

APPLICATION:

1.Highlightshade:Applytobrowboneandlid.

2.Midtone shade: Starting slightly in from the outside corner, bring thecoloracrossthecreaseintotheinsidecornerofthecrease.

3. Contour shade: Starting just slightly in from the outside corner, bringyourcolorupandintothecrease.Next,sweepcontourcoloralongthelowerlashline,makingsureonceagaintostartslightlyinfromtheoutsidecorner.

Tip:Ifyouwanttowearcoloratthelowerlashline,beginyourapplication

aboutaneighthofaninchinfromtheoutermostcorner.

partthreeputtingitalltogether

10

basicapplication

Girls just want to have fun — especially when it comes tomakeup.Soget ready toplaywithcolor! In thischapter,we’llpainton the perfect eye look, learn the tricks of applying blush andbronzers, make lips speak volumes with luscious color, and evenexperimentwithfalseeyelashes.Getreadytorevealtherealyou!

sunnismyth

brows

Whenselectingabrowcolor,chooseonethatiseitheryournaturalcolororoneshadelighter.Becarefulnottoconfusebrowpencilsandpowderswitheyepencilsandshadows—theyarenotthesame.

Browpencilsaredullerincolor,usuallywithnosheen,andhaveasomewhatwaxier texture than eyeliner pencils do. Eyebrow powder is duller and moremattethaneyeshadow.

Whenusingabrowpencil,applyshort,feathery,hairlikestrokesangledinthesamedirection as the hairs’ growth.Never drawon a solid, hard-looking line.Shortfeather-likestrokesaremeanttoimitateshortbrowhairs.Iliketogoovertheareaagain,usingasmallangledbrush,followingthesamestrokepattern.Itblendsthepencilinalittlebetterandhelpsitappearmorenatural.

Youcanalsoachieveaverynaturalbrowbyusingbrowpowder.Applyitwithasmall,stiff,angledbrushinshort,featherystrokes,whilefollowingthenaturalhairgrowthpattern.

For those with scars or brows that are just not there, you may need thecoverageofacrèmebrowcolor,whichgivesthemostcoverage.Simplyapplyitwithastiff,angledbrushusingshortfeatherystrokes.It’salwaysbesttofollowcrèmewithabrowpowdertosetitandhelpitlastallday.

Whichevermethodyouprefer,whengroomingyourbrows,alwaysfinishbyusingabrowbrushtobrushupwardandoutward.Ifyoulike,youcanendwithabrowgel.Itactslikehairsprayforthebrows.Toreviewhowtocreatethebestshapeforyourbrows,turntopage72.

Tips:Sharpenyourpencileachtimeyouuseit.Thesharperthepencil, the

bettertheapplication.

Youcanuseeyebrowpenciloreyebrowpowderseparately,oryoucancombinethem.Ifyoucombinethem,you’llincreasetheirwearingtime.

eyes

Three times isdefinitelya charmwhen it comes toapplyingeyecolor. Ittakesthreeshadestoshapetheeye:ahighlight,midtone,andcontourshade.Thebasicruletorememberisthateverythingyouhighlightwillcometowardyouorbecomemore prominent, and everythingyou contour or darkenwill recedeormove away from you.Using three shades creates a subtle visual trick to helpbring out one of yourmost beautiful features and help draw attention to youreyes rather than your eyelids.While there are thousands of shades to choosefrom,everyoneshouldusethethree-shadeapplicationtechniqueforbestresults.Besuretoreviewpages111-121toidentifyyourparticulareyeshapeandlearnthecorrectplacementforyourthreeshades.

HIGHLIGHT

Yourhighlightshadeisthelightestofthethreeeyeshadows.Itcanbemoreorlessdramatic,dependingontheshadeandthefinishyouselect.Amattefinishwill give you amore subtle look than a shimmer finish.The shimmerwill bemoredramatic.Forexample,Iusuallyuseashimmerhighlightondeep-seteyesbecause it opens up the eye more than a matte shade. Also, the lighter thehighlightshade,themoredramaticyourlook.Asofterorflesh-tonedshadewillgive you a less dramatic look. You should apply the highlight shade to yourbrowboneandeyelid.

MIDTONE

Yourmidtoneshadeisyourmost importantshade.It’s thefirststepintheblendingprocessandincreatingthecreaseoftheeye.Thisshadeshouldbethemost subtle—an extension of your skin. You’ll change your highlight andcontourcolorsmoreoftenthanyourmidtoneshade.Mostof the timeit isbestforyourmidtonecolortohaveamattefinish,butitdoesnotalwayshaveto.Itisjustthatthemattefinishgivesitamoresubtleandnaturalappearance.

Toapplyit,startfromtheoutsidecorneroftheeyelid,sothatareawillgetthemostmidtone color.Gentlymove your brush across the crease into the insidecorneroftheeyelid.Dependingonyoureyeshape(ifyoursisanyothershapethanbasic),youmaynotalwayswanttobringthecolorallthewayovertotheinside corner.Refer topages111-121 for exact placement. If youwant a verydefinedcrease,youcanapplyafewmorelayersofyourmidtoneshade,alwaysmakingsuretoblenditwhereitmeetsthehighlightshade.

Ifyou’reshortontime,justsweepyourmidtonecoloracrossyoureyelidsforaverynaturallook.Itwillhelpyoureyecolor“pop,”butwon’thelptodefineorshapeyoureyelids.

CONTOUR

The contour shade is the deepest of the three shades. It’s not necessarilystark or dark—it can even be metallic—but it is the eyeshadow that is thedeepestofthethree.Thecontoureyeshadowistheshadeyoucanhavefunwithand change with your mood. You’ll find that most makeup lines offer morecontourcolors,becausetheyarethemosteye-catchingandexcitingtouse.

Toapply,takeabrushwithshadowandmoveitacrossyourtoplashlinefromtheoutsidecornerinward.Thenbringthecolorupintotheouterportionofthecreaseandblenditinward.Thislayersthecontourshadeontopofyourmidtoneshadetohelpyougettheblended,definedlookyouwant.Youcanalsoapplythecontourcolorunderneaththelowerlashlinetodefineorblenditoveryoureyepencil.

Foramoredramaticeye,youcanalwaysapplyseverallayersofcolortobuildtheshade’sintensity.Addcolorinsmallamounts.Youcanalwaysaddmoreforextra drama, but once you’ve applied it, it’s difficult to remove.You can alsocreatea“smoky”eyeusingyourcontourcolorovertheentirelid,beginningatthelashlineandblendingitasyougoupwards.Foratruesmokylook,youmustblend,blend,andblendsomemore,otherwiseyoureyeshadowwillappear tooharsh.

amywilliams

EYELINER

Youcanlineanddefineyoureyesinanumberofways:withpencil,liquid,cake, crème,orpowder.Oryoucan skip this stepcompletely! It’s amatterofpersonalchoice.

Pencil eyeliners contain silicone to help the color glide on smoothly andblendeasily.Makesurethepencilyouusedoesn’thavetoomuchsilicone,orthecolorwillsmearandsmudgeunderneathyoureyesratherthandefinethem.

Toapplypencilliner,beginattheoutsidecornerofyoureyeanddrawsmall,feather-likestrokes,connectingeachoneasyoumovetoward the insideof theeye. Then blend with a small brush. Using the same brush, apply a powdershadow ina similar colorover thepencil tohelpmake it lookmorenatural. Ialwaysdothisbecauseitsoftensthepencillineandsetsthecolor.Italsohelpsyoucorrectanymistakesyoumayhavemadewhenblendingthepencilstrokestogether.

Fornighttimedrama,I liketouseapencilunderneaththeeyeandalongtheupper lash line.Along the upper lashline,make sure the line gradually growsthickerasitextendstowardtheoutercorneroftheeyes.Underneaththeeye,youwantthecolortobethemostintenseattheoutercornerandslowlyfadingasitreaches the inner corner. Drawing the same thickness all the way across andunderneaththeeyelidscancloseintheeyesandmakethemappearsmaller.Fordaytime,Inormallydon’tusepencilunderneaththeeye.Instead,Iliketouseaneyeshadow and a brush to create a softer,more natural look. If you prefer towearpencilduringthedaytime,besuretosoftenitbyapplyingpowderoverittomakeitappearmoresubtle.

Somewomenhaveamorenoticeablerimofskin that isvisiblebetween thelashesandtheeye,dependingontheireyeshape.Youcandarkenthisareawithapenciloradarkshadowtohelpyoureyecolor“pop.”Oneofmyfavoritetricksistotakeblackeyeshadowandcarefullypushitintothebaseofthelashesusinga fine-tipped brush. This defines the eyes and makes the lashes look thickerwithoutmakingyoureyesappear“lined.”

Tips:Youcouldalsouseablush foryourmidtone if theproducthasbeen

approvedfortheeye.

Aquicknote:Thefirstplaceyouputyourbrushwillreceivethemostcolor,becauseithasthemosteyeshadowonitatthatpoint.

Since blending is so vital to the overall effect of beautifully paintedeyes,good-qualityshadowbrushesareamust,becausetheyenableyoutocreateartfulshapesandeffects.

You should apply concealer and powder to your lids first beforeapplying eyeshadow. This helps the color blend more easily and wearlonger.

Alwayskeepyourpencilssharpenedformorepreciseapplication.

Liquideyelineristhelongest-wearing,andmostbrandscomewithafine-tippedapplicationbrush.Liquid linercreates thestrongest,mostdramatic line.Neveruseliquidlinerundertheeye,becauseitleavesanunnaturallinethatcanbestarkandhard-looking.

Whenusingliquideyelineronthetopofyoureyelid,drawacontinuouslinestarting at the inside corner to the outside corner of the eye, giving the line alittle “kick”upwardsat theend.Make sure it is themostnarrowat the insidecorner,graduallygettingthickerasyougettotheoutsidecorner.Liquideyelineristhemostdifficulttoapply,butyoucanmasteritwithalittlepractice.

Crèmeeyeliner isalsoappliedwithadampbrush in thesamemannerasliquidandcake.

Cakeeyelinercomesasapowder.Toapply,firstdampenyourbrush,thenswipe it across the powder to form a liquid. Then apply it just as youwouldliquideyeliner.

Powder eyeliner,oreyeshadowusedas liner,gives themostnatural lookandis theeasiest toworkwith.Youcanuse itdry,oruse itwet ifyouwantastrongerlook.Toapplyitdry,useabrushanddrawafinelinealongthebaseofthelashesfromtheoutsidetotheinsidecorneroftheeye.Ifyou’dliketoapplythe powderwet, dampen your brush and apply it like liquid eyeliner. Powderusedwetgivesthesameeffectasliquid,butismucheasiertocontrol.

jenniferstephens

longlashes

Ialwaysrecommendcurlingyoureyelashes,because itopensup theeyesandmakes themappear largerandmoreyouthful.Manywomenskip this stepandit’samistake.You’renever tooold tocurlyour lashes.Butmakesure thetoolyouuseisyoung.Ifyouuseaneyelashcurlerformorethanayear,itcangetoutofalignmentandcutyourlashes.

Thetricktocurlingyoureyelashescorrectlyistocrimpthemmorethanjustonce at the lash line. Instead, “walk” the eyelash curler up the length of yourlashes, takingcaretoclose,openandmovetheeyelashcurlerupseveral timesuntilyoureachtheendofyourlashes.Thismethodcreatesacurveratherthanacrimp,andwillhelpyoureyelashesstaycurled.

You canmakeyour lashes look longer or thicker by applyingyourmascaracorrectly.Thickening and lengtheningmascaras containparticles that attach tothelashsoyoucancontrolhowyouwanttobuildyourlashes.

Forthicker lashes:Startat thebaseof the lashesandholdyourmascarawandinahorizontalposition,workingitfromsidetosideasyouworkyourwayuptotheendofthelashes.Thismakesthemascaraparticlesattachtothesidesofyourlashes,makingthemappearthicker.

Forlongerlashes:Holdyourmascarawandinaverticalposition.Startingatthebaseofthelashline,pullthewandupandouttotheendofyourlashes.Theparticleswillattachtotheendsofyourlashes,makingthemappearlonger.

Make sure you choose the correct formula for your desired effect. If youwanttodefineyourlashes,useadefiningformula.Ifyouwanttothicken,useathickening formula. Turn to page 32 for more information on the differentmascaraformulasthatareavailable.

falseeyelashes

Ifyouwantmoredrama,youcanalwayswearfalseeyelashes.Theycomeinstrips,individualflares,andindividualstrands.

If you’d like that flirtatious, “frankly fake” look for evening, use the strips,becausetheyarethemostnoticeable.

It’sbesttoapplyapencileyelinerbeforeyourstripeyelashessoyoucanseeexactly where to place them, and to prevent any skin from showing betweenyournaturallashesandthefalseones.Thecloseryouplacethemtoyournaturallashline, themorenatural they’ll appear.Youcan followwith a liquid liner tohelpdisguisethelashband.

The flaresaremorenatural-looking thanstrips,butmypreference is for theindividual-strand lashes. They look the most natural, and they are the onestypicallyusedformostmascaraadvertisements.Yousimplyapplythemdirectlyontopofyourownlashestohelpextendthelength.

Tips:Ipersonallyprefertouseblackmascaraontheupperlashesandbrown

onthelowerones,becausebrownlookslessharsh.

Makecertainyoucoatyourlasheswithmascaraat theinsidecornersandtheveryoutercorners.Thesearethetwoareasthatmanywomenmiss.

Two or three thinly applied coats of mascara are far more effectivethanasingleclumpyone.

cheekchic

Blush andbronzerwork together to bringyour face alive andgive you anatural,healthyglow.Gettingthatbeautifulglowisatwo-stepprocess,becauseIalwaysliketobronzethefacebeforeaddingtheactualcheekcolor.Ithinkeverywomancanbenefitfrombronzingbecauseitaddswarmthandnaturalbeautytotheskinandcanmakeyouappearyounger.

Beforewelearnhowtobronzeandblushcorrectly,Iwant toshatter theoldmythsofwhereandhowtoapplycolortoyourcheeks.

Myth1:Blushshouldneverbewornclosertoyournosethanthewidthoftwofingers.Dependingon thewidthofyour fingers,yourblushcouldwinduponthesideofyourfaceinsteadoftheapplesofyourcheeks!

Myth 2:Blush should never be applied below the tip of your nose. If youfollowedthisadviceandyouhaveacutelittleturned-upnose,yourblushcouldbeappliedabovetheapplesofyourcheeks.

Myth3:Applyblushasaninvertedtriangletothefacetogiveitmoreshape.We use foundation and powder to highlight and contour the face—not blush.Blushisusedtoaddcolorandlifetotheskin.

Myth4:Maturewomenshouldapplycheekcolorhigherastheyage.Whilethe skinmay lose some of its elasticity as we age, I can assure you that ourcheekbones remain in the same place! If you know how to locate yourcheekbones correctly, you’ll always have your bronzer and blush in the rightplaceonyourface.

Toaccuratelylocateyourcheekbones,takethiscan’t-missapplicationtest:

1.Smile.

2.Locatethecenterofthe“apple”ofyourcheekandplaceyourindexfingerthere.Next,placeyour thumbat the topofyourearwhere itconnects toyourhead.Nowtakeyourthumbandbringittowardyourindexfinger.Theboneyoufeelisyourcheekbone.Finally,applyyourcolordirectlyontothecheekbone.

Tip:Keep separate brushes for bronzers andblush, because it keeps each

colorclearerandpurer.

BRONZER

Bronzermakesyourskinlooksun-kissedandalive.Itgivesyourskinahealthyglowwithoutsubjectingittodamagingultravioletrays.Towarmyourfaceandaccentuateyourbonestructure,simplydustbronzingpowderor crème bronzer along the outer edges of your face and onto yourcheekbones.Bronzerisalsousefulforlightlysculptingthenoseandchin.Seepage83formoreinfoonsculpting.

Alwaysapplyyourbronzerbeginningatthebackofyourcheekboneandsweep it forward. Then go back and brush in the opposite direction toblend. If you are using a crème bronzer, simply dot the color along yourcheekboneandblend.Don’tforgetalittleatthetemplestohelpshapeyourface.Sweepingthebronzingpowderuparoundthetemplesandeyesocketscanalsoreallyhelpyoureyecolorpop,especiallyifyoureyesaregreenorblue.

Ifbronzingpowdersandcrèmeslooktooboldonyou,tryusingpressedpowderinstead.Ithasalowerpigmentlevelandblendsverynicely.Ifyouhave lighter skin, an ebony pressed powder will work beautifully as abronzer.

BLUSH

Therearethreemajormistakeswomenmakewithblush:

1.Usingtoomuchofitinthefallandwintertotrytocompensateforthelackofatan.

2.Choosing a color that is either too red or too purple.Remember, to helpdetermineagoodshadeforyourself,tryashortburstofenergeticexercise,thenmatchyourblushcolortoyourcheeks’naturalflush.

3.Applying too little of a shade because it’s too strong. If you don’t applyenough,itwon’tlastthroughtheday.

Theintensityofcoloryouarewearingonyoureyesandlipscandeterminetheamount of blush youmight need that day. For example, if you arewearing astronglipcolor,youwillneedlessblush.Ifyouarewearingapaler,sheererlipcolor,youmightneedmoreblush.

Apowderblushistheeasiesttouse.Therearetwowaystoapplyyourpowderblushproperly:

1.Applyblush toyourcheekbonearea, startingat theback (closest toyourear).Sweepyourcheekcolortowardtheappleofyourcheek,thenbacktowardtheearagain.Thengobackagainintheoppositedirectiontoblend.Thisway,yourmostintensecolorliesatthebackofyourcheekandgivesyourfacemoredimension.

2. For amore natural appearance, you can try a technique called “poppingyourapples.”First,applybronzer toyourcheekbones.Thentakea light,sheerblush color,making sure it is not too dark. Smile and apply your blush colorback toward thearea thatyoubronzed.Thisgives theapplesofyourcheeksa

beautiful glow. Again, you’ll want to use a sheer shade of blush for thistechnique.Adarkorbrightcheekcolorcanbetoointenseandunnatural-looking.

Ifyouusecrèmeorliquidblush,applyitwitheitheraspongeoryourfingersafteryour foundationandbeforeyourpowder foreasierblending. Ifyouwearyourblushwithoutfoundation,crèmeandliquidworkbetterthanpowderblushastheycontainmoisturethatblendsbetterwiththenaturalmoistureofyourskin.Toapplycrèmeor liquidblush,firstdota littleontotheapplesofyourcheeksandthenblendbacktowardyourears.

With anyblush, you should remember the rule tomatch textures: crèmeoncrèmeandpowderonpowder.Toincreasethestayingpowerofyourblush,trythesetips:

1.Applycrèmeblushafteryouapplyyourfoundation.

2.Applyyourpressedorloosepowder.

3.Applypowderblushontopofyourfacepowder.

Thetwolayershelpthecheekcolorstayonandlastthroughouttheday.

Tips:Ifcheekcoloristoointense,softenitwithadustingofloosepowder.

Neveruseblushtocontourorshapetheface.

lips

Tokeepyour lips looking luscious, exfoliate themonceaweek. I alwaysliketousealittlelipbalmormoisturizeronthelipsbeforeIapplythelipstickcolor,becauseithelpstheliplinerandlipstickgoonsmoothlyandmoreevenly.Justapplythelipbalmfirstandblotofftheexcess.

Lippencilswillhelpprevent lipstickfromfeatheringandbleeding,butonceyou’veoutlinedyourlips,don’tstopthere.Besuretoblendinwardsothatwhenyour lipstickwearsoff,youaren’t leftwith justanoutline.You’ll findabrushusefulintheapplicationandblending.

Makesureyouoptimizeyourentiremouth.Mostwomendon’t,becausetheytendtodrawinsidethelipline.Conversely,takecarenottooverdraw,becauseifyou’reusingalipcolorthatisnotnatural-lookingandyoustraytoofaroutsidethelipline,itwillbenoticeable.

BASIC

I’moftenaskedifwomenhavetowearlipliner.Whileit’sanoptionalstep,herearethreethingstoconsidertohelpyoudecideifliplinerisforyou:

1. Lip liner can help define your mouth and reshape your lips if they areuneven.

2.Liplinercanhelppreventyourlipcolorfrombleedingontoyourskin.

3.Liplinercanhelpyourlipsticklastlonger,especiallyifyoufillinyourlipswithlinerfirstbeforeapplyingyourlipcolor.

APPLICATION:

Toproperlyapplyyourliplinertothetoplip,beginwithaVinthe“cupid’sbow”orcentercurveofthelips.Thenstartingattheoutercorners,drawsmall,featherystrokestomeetthecenterV.

Onthelowerlip,firstaccentuatethelowercurveofthelip,thenbeginsmallfeather-likestrokesfromtheoutercornersmovingtowardsthecenter.

Nowyoucanactuallyapplyyourcolor.Youcanuseabrush,yourfingers,oratube toapplyyour lipstick,but if it’sappliedwithabrush, itwillusually lookmuch more precise and last longer. For more intense color, you can apply itstraightfromthetube,butitwillbehardertocoverthesmallerdetailedareasofthelips.

SMALLLIPS

Ifyoufeelyouhavesmalllips,therearetwowaystocreateanew,fullerliplook.Here’sthefirstway:

1.First,eraseyourexistinglip linewithconcealerorfoundation.Doingthiscreatesafreshcanvasonwhichyoucandesignawholenewandimprovedlipline.

2.Usinganatural-tonedlippencil,drawalinejustslightlyaboveyournaturallip line on the top and around the bottom. Don’t exaggerate the line—justslightlyaboveandbelowyournaturalliplineisyourgoal.

3. Now, fill in your lips completely with the lip liner, except for the verycenterofyourtoplipandbottomlip.

4.Next,takeadaboflightconcealerandplaceitinthecenterofyourtoplipandbottomlip.Whenyouapplyyourlipstick,thisareawillremainlighterandhelpmakeyourlipsappearfuller.

5.Tofinish,applyalight,shimmerylipglosstothecenterofyourlipsoveryourlipsticktohelpmakeyourlipsappearevenfuller.

Thesecondwaytocreatefullerlipsisbyusingtwocomplementaryshadesoflip color—one lighter, onedarker.First, lineyour lipswith anatural-toned lippencil.Thenapplythedarkershadeoflipcolorontheouteredgesofyourlips,blendingitwhereitmeetsthelipliner.Next,applythelightershadeoflipstickontheinsideofyourlipsandblenditwhereitmeetsthedarkershade.Finally,takealight,shimmerylipglossandplaceitinthecenterofthelipstocreatetheillusionoffullerlips.

Choosingthecorrect formulafor thedesired lip lookis important.Glossy isalwayssexy.Theshinemakesyourlipsappearfullerandmoreyouthful.Ifyourlips tend to be dry, stay away from matte lipstick. While the formula wearslonger, it can make your lips look and feel even more dehydrated. Crèmeformulasarealwaysasafechoice,becausetheytendtoworkinjustaboutanysituation.

Playwith lip color.Don’t be afraidof it. It’s always easy to change it. Justrememberit’simportanttoconsideryourlipsizewhenchoosingalipstickcolor.Darker shades make the lips look smaller. Lighter shades make the lips lookfuller.Toreviewtheguidelinesforchoosinglipcolor,turntopage67.

One last point to remember:Never expect lipstick to last all day. Formulasthat last that longmake the lips lookparchedanddry.Theseproducts containstains that (unlessyour lips are freshlyexfoliated)will adhereunevenly to thedryareasofyourlips,causingyourlipsticktoappearsplotchyanddehydrated.

Tips:Don’tforgetthatbrighter,warmercolorsalsomakeyoulookyounger.

Anythingtoodarkisfartooharshformaturelips.

Rememberthatpalercolorsilluminateandmakelipsappearfullerandmore youthful, while dark colors have a minimizing effect, making lipsappearsmaller.

Alwaysmoisturizeyourlipsbeforeapplyingcolor.

Tohelplipstickstayonlonger,useliplineralloveryourlips.Applylipstickontop,thenblotandreapply.

11

totaltransformations

I have already stated that everywoman is beautiful, and in thischapterIproveit!Ihavetakenwomenfromeverywalkoflife,ethnicbackground, and age, and shown how beautiful they all truly are.Enjoy seeing the transformations and the tips about how I achievedeachlook.Iamsure thatwithsuchadiversegroupofwomen,evenyoucanfindsomeonewithasimilarlookandwillbeabletotaketheapplication tips and use them tomake yourselfmore beautiful. Justremember,makeup is not permanent, so don’t be scared to try newthings.Ifyoudonotlikeitwhenyouarefinished,youcanjustwashitoff.Havefunandbecomeyourmostbeautifulyou!

kerriebodratoFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Toaddcontrastandcolortoherface.Toopentheeyesandcreateamoredefinedcrease.

APPLICATION:Chose lipandblushcolors thatwere ingreat contrast toherskin toaddcolor toher face.Definedhereyes reallywellat the lash line.Madesure todefine thecrease reallywellwithmymidtonesoas todeepen itandaddshapetohereyeandlid.

lanaandrewsFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:deep-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.Tobringhereyesoutandpushbrowboneback.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlighted lidonly, tobring theeye forward.Usedmidtoneonbrowbonetopushitaway.

gaylekolsrudFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: To create the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face and tosubtlydefineherfeatures.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlighted the lidandbrowbonetoopenup theeye.Defined thecreaseandlashlinetogivetheeyemoreshape.

patsmithFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “four

corners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlightedthelidandbrowbone.Tocreatedefinitionatthelash lineand in thecrease, chose to layer themidtonecolor rather thanadarkercolor.

traceyallredFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:matteroseContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.Highlightandopenhereyeswhichareoneofherbestfeatures.

APPLICATION: Contoured jawline and cheeks to help minimize theirwidth. Highlighted the center of the forehead to create the illusion of morewidth.Highlightedeyelidsandbrowbonestoopentheeyes.Definedthecreaseandlashline.

gloriamayfield-banksFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:droopySHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:matteburgundy

OBJECTIVE:Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastoaddlifetotheskin.Tomaketheoutercornersoftheeyesappeartoturnupratherthandown.

APPLICATION: To even out the skin tone, usedmultiple shades offoundation thenbrightened the skinwithagoldenorange facepowderonallhighlightareasoftheface.Madesuretobeginallmidtoneandcontourshadowapplication inslightly fromtheoutsidecornerof theeye,makingsuretoblendupandin,notoutanddown.

susanporterglassmoyerFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocontourthelidtodrawattentiontohereyes.APPLICATION:Layeredmidtoneandcontourcolorsonhoodedareas.The

layeringofcolorhelpstheendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

brooketobolkaFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “four

corners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipof thechin.Brookehas slightlyhooded lids, so I appliedandblendedmidtoneandcontourcolors to thearea tohelp it recede.Defined the lashlinereallywell.

arlenelenarzFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:wide-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionofamoreoval-shapedfaceandhelptheeyesappearclosertogether.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the ”fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Layeredmidtonecolorinthecreaseandontheinsidehollowoftheeyetovisuallypulltheeyeplacementclosertogether.

roshawndar.fosterFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:darkburgundy

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION:Contouredthetemplesanddefinedthehollowsofthe

cheeks tohelpminimize thewidthof thoseareas.Highlighted thechin tocreate theillusionofwidth.Highlightedthelidandbrowbonetoopentheeye.Usedmidtoneshadowtoevenouther lids, thendefined the lash linereallywell.

susant.billyFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocontourtheeyelidawaytodrawattentiontotheeyes.APPLICATION:Layeredmidtoneandcontourcolorsonhoodedareas.The

layeringofcolorhelpstheendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

wandadalbyFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tominimizethehoodedareaand“openup”theeye.Togiveherskinayouthfulglow.

APPLICATION: Applied midtone and contour color to the hoodedarea of the eyelids to help them recede and “open up” the eye. Subtlelayeringofcolorcreatesaverynaturaleffect.Choseasoftwarmblushtogiveherfaceawarmglow.

marydiamondFACESHAPE:roundEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour-shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: To give the illusion of a more oval-shaped face. Tominimizethehoodedareaand“openup”theeye.

APPLICATION:Softlysculptedcheeks,jaw,andtemplestocreateamoreovalshape.Appliedmidtoneandcontourcolortothehoodedareaofthelidstohelpthemrecedeand“openup”theeye.Subtlelayeringofcolorcreatesaverynaturaleffect.A reallywell-defined lash linemakes theblue inhereyesstandout.

juliebakerFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattemahogany

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelids, making her eyes appearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Iapplied,thenblendedthemidtoneandcontourcolorsontothehoodedareatohelpitappeartorecede.

lyndakeeneFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:wide-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:matteroseContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tovisuallybringtheeyesclosertogetherandtogiveherayouthfulglow.

APPLICATION:Layeredthecolorinthecreaseandontheinsidehollowsof the eyes to visually pull the eye shape closer together.Usedwarm lip andcheekshadestogiveherskinamoreyouthfulglow.

maxineallenFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:droopySHADOWS:Highlight:mattesand

Midtone:mattecaramelContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE:Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastohelpaddlifetotheskin.Tomaketheoutercornersoftheeyeappeartoturnupratherthandown.

APPLICATION: Evened out skin tone by using multiple shades offoundation.Brightened the skinwith a golden-orange face powder on allhighlighted areas of the face. Applied the midtone and contour shadowsslightly in from the outside corners of the eyes to draw attention to thecenteroftheeyelids.Blendedshadowswell.

janharrisFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.Toreallydefineandopenuphereyesandmakethemappearlarger.

APPLICATION: Contoured the temples and defined the hollows of thecheekstohelpminimizethewidthofthoseareas.Highlightedthechintocreatetheillusionofwidth.Definedreallywellwithshadowatlashlineandbycurlingherlashesandusingmultiplelayersofmascara.Highlightedlidandinsidealongbottomlashlinetohelpopenhereyes.

nancycastroFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedfaceandtomakehereyecolor“pop.”

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlightedthelidandbrowbonetoopenuptheeye.Definedthecrease and lash line to give the eye more shape and to make eye color“pop.”

dr.frankaiserFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: To create the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face and togiveherskinamoreyouthfulglow.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlighted the lidandbrowbonetoopenup theeye.Defined thecreaseand lashline togive theeyemoreshape.Chosea soft,warmblush togiveherfaceawarmglow.

soniapaezFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelids, making her eyes appearmoreopen.

APPLICATION:Contouredthetemplesanddefinedthehollowsofthecheeks tohelpminimize thewidthof thoseareas.Highlighted thechin tocreate the illusion of width. I applied, then blended, the midtone andcontourcolorsontothehoodedareaoftheeyelids,makingthemappeartorecede.

ericatracyFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION:Contouredhairlineandjawtosoftenthe“fourcorners”of

theface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Madesuretohighlightthelidandbrowbonetoopentheeye.Definedthecreaseandlashlinetogivetheeyemoreshape.

joannahathcockFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “four

corners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechintocreateanovalillusion.Joannahasveryunusuallyshapedeyes.Toaccentuatethem,Ihighlightedthelidandbrow,thenbuiltcontourcolorinthecreaseandatthelashline.

allisonpiroFACESHAPE:heartEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.APPLICATION:Contouredher temples and thehollowsofher cheeks to

minimize thewidth.Highlighted the chin to create the illusionofmorewidth.Madesuretodefinethelashlinereallywelltointensifythecoloroftheeyes.

kimhenryFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:mattesand

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:darkburgundy

OBJECTIVE:Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastohelpaddlifetotheskin.Togivefaceamoreovalillusion.

APPLICATION: Evened out skin tone by using multiple shades offoundation.Brightened the skinwith a golden-orange face powder on allhighlightedareasof theface.Contouredthehairlineandjawtosoftenthe“fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtip of the chin. Highlighted the lid and browbone to open up the eye.Definedthecreaseandlashlinetogivetheeyemoreshape.

patriciayoungFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:droopySHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Tomake theouter cornersof the eyes appear to turnupratherthandown.Giveherskinayouthfulglow.

APPLICATION: Made sure to begin all midtone and contour shadowapplicationinslightlyfromtheoutsidecorneroftheeye,makingsuretoblendupandin,notoutanddown.Choseasoft,warmblushtogiveherfaceawarmglow.

sarahbirdFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarktaupe

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionofamoreoval-shapedfaceandsubtlydefineherfeatureswithoutmakingherlooktoomature.

APPLICATION:Contoured the jawline andcheeks tohelpminimizetheirwidth.Highlighted theforehead tocreate the illusionofmorewidth.Subtly defined her eyes at the lash line and highlighted her lids andbrowbones.

ashleycantleyFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedfaceanddrawmoreattentiontotheeyes.

APPLICATION:Contoured the jawline and the hollows of the cheeks tohelpminimizetheirwidth.Highlightedthecenteroftheforeheadtohelpcreatewidth.Tohelpbringattention to theeyes,defined the lash lineand thecreasereallywell.

hollyjonssonFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarktaupe

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Todefineherfeatureswithouttheuseofalotofcolor.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andthe tip of the chin. Iwanted aminimal look so I usedmuchmore subtlecolorstodefine,thereforegivingherapracticallyno-makeuplook.

kathyhelouFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: To give the illusion of a more oval-shaped face. Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelidsmaking the eyes appearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION:Contouredhairlineandjawtosoftenthe”fourcorners”ofthe face. Layeredmidtone and contour colors on hooded areas of the eyelids.Thelayeringofcolorhelpstheendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

jordanhelouFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tosubtlydefineherfeatures.

APPLICATION: Contoured hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipof thechin.Highlighted lidsandbrowbones, thendefinedeyesat lashlineandinthecrease.Finishedwithglossylips.

sidneyhelouFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.Tosubtlydefineherfeatures.

APPLICATION:HerskinwassoamazingthatIdidnothavetodomuch.Contouredhairlineandjawtosoftenthe“fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlightedherlidsandbrowbones.Subtlydefinedhercrease.

bradenharrisFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelids making the eyes appearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION: Contoured hairline and jaw to soften the ”fourcorners”oftheface.Layeredmidtoneandcontourcolorsonhoodedareasoftheeyelids.Thelayeringofcolorhelpstheendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

vanessashasteenFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarktaupe

OBJECTIVE:Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedfaceandsubtlydefineherfeatureswithoutmakingherlooktoomature.

APPLICATION:Contouredthe jawlineandcheeks tohelpminimize theirwidth. Highlighted the center of the forehead to create the illusion of morewidth.Subtlydefinedtheeyesatthelashlineandglossedthelipstogiveherafresh,younglook.

stacyjamesFACESHAPE:longEYESHAPE:droopySHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tomaketheoutercornersoftheeyesappeartoturnupratherthandown.Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.

APPLICATION:Madesuretobeginallmidtoneandcontourshadowapplication in slightly from theoutside corner of the eye,making sure toblendupand in,notoutanddown.Madesure toput lotsofcoloron theapplesofthecheekstovisuallyshortenthelengthofface.

tessmullenFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarktaupe

OBJECTIVE: To softly define the features and give her a polished,sophisticatedlook.

APPLICATION:Withanoval-shapedfacelikeTess’s,therewasnotalottodo.Warmeduptheskinwithbronzer.Subtlydefinedtheeyesbyhighlightingthelidsandbrowbone,thensoftlydefinedthecreaseandlashlinewithsoftcolors.

stefaniecoxFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:wide-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionofamoreoval-shapedfaceandhelptheeyesappearclosertogether.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtip of the chin. Layered midtone color in the crease and on the insidehollowoftheeyestovisuallypulltheeyeplacementclosertogether.

poppimonroeFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: To create the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face and tosubtlydefineherfeatures.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the ”fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlighted the lidandbrowbonetoopenup theeye.Defined thecreaseandlashlinetogivetheeyemoreshape.

julianneFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:deep-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tocreatetheillusionofamoreovalshapedface.Tobringhereyesoutandpushbrowboneback.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the ”fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipofthechin.Highlightedlidonly,tobringtheeyesforward.Usedmidtoneonbrowbonetopushitaway.

marisolFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:mattesand

Midtone:mattecaramelContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE: To define eyes and open them up. To give her skin abeautifulglow.

APPLICATION:Madesuretodefinereallywellatthelashlineandcurledherlashestoreallybringhereyesout.Appliedmultiplelayersofmascaraonetolengthen,onetothicken.Usedbronzertogiveherskinarichdepthandfolloweditwitharichwarmblush.

pamfrankFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelids, making the eyes appearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION: Contoured hairline and jaw to soften the ”fourcorners”oftheface.Highlightedforehead,undereyesontopofcheekboneandtipofchin.Layeredmidtoneandcontourcolorsonhoodedareasoftheeyelids.The layeringofcolorhelps theendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

pattywoodrichFACESHAPE:pearEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: To create the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face and tohelpherhoodedeyelidsrecede.

APPLICATION: Contoured jawline and cheeks to help minimize theirwidth. Highlighted the center of the forehead to create the illusion of morewidth. Layeredmidtone and contour colors on hooded areas. The layering ofcolorhelpstheendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

debimooreFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:deep-setSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Tobringher eyes out andpushbrowboneback.Togiveherskinabeautifulglow.Makeherlipslookfuller.

APPLICATION: Highlighted lids only, to bring the eyes forward.Usedmidtoneonbrowbone topush it away.Usedbronzeroncheeksandtemples,endedbychoosingasoftwarmblushtogiveheraglow.Usedlipenhancingtechniquetomakethemappearlarger.

lorijonesFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionofamoreoval-shapedface.Toevenoutandbrightenherskintone.

APPLICATION: Contoured the hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Highlighteddownthecenteroftheforehead,nose,andtipof thechin.Highlightedthe lidandbrowbone.Toevenout theskin tone,usedmultipleshadesoffoundationthenbrightenedtheskinwithagolden-orangefacepowderonallhighlightareasoftheface.

elainemoockFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Tominimize the hooded appearance of her eyelids making the eyes appearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION: Contoured hairline and jaw to soften the “fourcorners”oftheface.Layeredmidtoneandcontourcolorsonhoodedareasoftheeyelid.Thelayeringofcolorhelpstheendresultappearmoresubtleandnatural.

12

modelsneedmakeuptoo

I know that everyone thinks that models are perfect, and eventhough theyareprettydarnclose to it, even theycanbenefit fromalittlemakeup.Inthischapter,IhavetakenmodelsthatIfeelaresomeof themostbeautifulandhaveshownyouthateventhoughtheyaretrulybeautifulwithoutmakeup,withittheyaredrop-deadbeautiful.(Ijust think it’s nice to know that evenmodels wake up looking likeyou!)Soenjoyseeingtheirtransformationsandknowthatyouarejustasbeautifulastheyare.

fabianaFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Togiveherfacetheillusionofbeingabitmoreoval.Bringoutthosebeautifuleyes.

APPLICATION: Bronzed and contour the “four corners” of the face.Highlightedtheforehead,underneaththeeyesontopofthecheekbone,andthechin.Applieddeepestshadeliberallyalonglashlinetobringouteyecoloranddefine.

cynthiaFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerwhitegold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:shimmerpurple

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastoaddlifetotheface.

APPLICATION:Usingmultipleshadesoffoundation,evenedouttheslightskindiscoloration.Themaingoalwastobrightenherface,whichwasachieved by using a golden orange face powder to highlight areas.Contouredhairlineandjawtosoftenthe“fourcorners”oftheface.

kateFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattecaramel

OBJECTIVE: Todrawall theattentiontothoseunbelievableblueeyes.Givetheskinaglow.

APPLICATION: Chose all shades of eyeshadow that had really strongwarmundertonessothatalltheattentionwouldbeontheblueintheeyes.Didnot have to use dark shadows to define, because the warm undertone reallyintensifiedtheblue.Appliedbronzer tocheeksandtemples,givingtheskinanamazingglow.Alsosoftwarmlipshelpedpoptheblueintheeyesaswell.

nonnaFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarktaupe

OBJECTIVE:Toreallybringouthereyesandgiveskinaglow.APPLICATION:Curledthenappliedmany,manycoatsofmascarato

lashestoreallydefinehereyeswithoutalotofdarkeyeshadow.Madesureto applymascaravertically andhorizontally soher lasheswouldbe thickand long. Used very soft lip color so the attention is drawn to the eyes.Usedbronzeroncheeksandtemplestogivethefaceaglow.

kateFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmergoldenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tominimizethehoodedappearanceofhereyelids,makingtheeyesappearmoreopenandalive.Giveskinabeautifulglow.

APPLICATION:Layeredmidtone and contour colors on hooded areas ofthe eyelids.The layeringof color helps the end result appearmore subtle andnatural. Curled lashes really well, helping to open the eyes. Used bronzer oncheeksandtemplestogiveaglow,followedbywarmcolorfulblush.

laurenFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmercopper

OBJECTIVE:Togiveherfacetheillusionofbeingabitmoreoval.Bringoutthosebeautifulbrowneyes.

APPLICATION:Bronzedandcontour the“fourcorners”of the face.Highlighted the forehead, underneath the eyes, on top of the cheek bone,and thechin.Applieddeepestshade liberallyalong lash line todefine theshapereallywell.

alyssaFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:matteflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattebrown

OBJECTIVE: Togiveherfacetheillusionofbeingabitmoreoval.Togiveskincoloranddepth

APPLICATION: Bronzed and contour the “four corners” of the face.Highlightedtheforehead,underneaththeeyesontopofthecheekboneandthechin.Gavehercolorfulblushontheapplesofhercheeksformoredepthandlifetoskin.

glennaFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerflesh

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:shimmerpurple

OBJECTIVE: To give her skin some color and a glow. Drawattentiontohereyes.

APPLICATION: Warmed up her skin by using one shade darkerfoundationfollowedbybronzeronhercheeksandtemples,togiveherskinmorecolorbutlooknatural.Usedlotsofcoloronhereyestograbattention.

eleanorFACESHAPE:ovalEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattedarktaupeContour:shimmergreenbrown

OBJECTIVE:Tominimizethehoodedappearanceoftheeyelids,causinghereyestoappearmoreopenandalive.

APPLICATION:Appliedmidtoneandcontourcolortothehoodedareaofthelidstohelpthemrecedeandopenuptheeyes.Subtlylayeredcolor,startingwith one layer of midtone then following with additional layers to help thehoodedareaappeartorecedenaturally.

sylviaFACESHAPE:roundEYESHAPE:hoodedSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmerbeige

Midtone:mattetaupeContour:mattedarkbrown

OBJECTIVE: Tominimize the hooded appearance of the eyelids,causinghereyes toappearmoreopenandalive.Togive the illusionofamoreoval-shapedface.

APPLICATION: Applied midtone and contour color to the hoodedareaof the lids tohelp themrecedeandopenup theeyes.Subtly layeredcolor, starting with one layer of midtone then following with additionallayers, to help the hooded area appear to recede naturally. Contoured allalong outer edge of face to minimize the width. Highlighted forehead,underneaththeeyes,ontopofcheekbones,andtipofchin.

carolFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattecaramelContour:shimmercopper

OBJECTIVE: Togivetheillusionofamoreoval-shapedface.Tobringouthernaturallybeautifulskintone.

APPLICATION: Bronzed and contour the “four corners” of the face.Highlightedtheforehead,underneaththeeyes,ontopofthecheekbone,andthechin. Chose shades of eyeshadow, blush, and lipstick that all work tocomplementherbronzeskintone,givingheranaturalglow.

alischiaFACESHAPE:squareEYESHAPE:basicSHADOWS:Highlight:shimmergold

Midtone:mattemahoganyContour:matteblack

OBJECTIVE: Togive the illusionof amoreoval-shaped face.Toevenoutskintoneandbrightenareastoaddlifetotheface.

APPLICATION:Usingmultipleshadesoffoundation,evenedouttheslightskindiscoloration.Themaingoalwastobrightenherface,whichwasachieved by using a golden orange face powder to highlight areas.Contouredhairlineandjawtosoftenthe“fourcorners”oftheface.

afterword

Throughout the years, I have been surrounded by beautiful, strongwomen, all of whom have greatly influenced my ideals of beauty. Mytraininginbeautybeganwithmanyyearsofstudyingart,whichIthinkiswhyIpayparticularattentiontotheimportanceofshading,undertones,andblending. My maternal grandfather was a talented artist and painter, sowhenmymothernoticedveryearlyonthatIexhibitedasimilargift,Iwasencouraged to begin studying. As early as the sixth grade, I won ascholarshiptostudypaintingandsculptureat theMuseumofFineArtsinHouston.

Aftermanyyearsofstudyingpainting,Igrewtiredofit,soIdecidedtofocusmyenergyonacting.Ithenattendedahighschoolfortheperformingarts and majored in theatre. That’s where my interest in makeup reallybegan,becausealongwithperformingintheproductions,Iwasencouragedtodothemakeupforthem.Actually,itistherethatIreceivedmystrongestencouragementtopursuemyGod-giventalentsinbeauty.Ithencontinuedmyeducationbystudyingallaspectsofbeauty,includinghairandskin.

For as long as I can remember, I have always been mesmerized byglamour. Like a lot of people ofmy generation, from a very early age Iconsidered “Barbie” to be the absolute epitome of beauty and glamour. Ihavethreesisters,andgrowingupwespenthoursplaying“Barbie.”AsfarasIwasconcernedshehaditall—beautyandbrains.

Growingup,itwasjustmeandfivewomen.Alongwithmysisters,therewasmymom,whowassingle,andmygrandmother,whowasdevoted tous. They each had their own style and weren’t afraid to express it. Irememberfromaveryyoungagebeggingmymothertogrowherhairlongand toweardresses. Iguessyoucouldsay Iwasdestined for the fashionandbeautybusiness.Iremembergoing(sometimesonceaweek)withmymotherandgrandmother to thebeauty shop,watching themget theirhairdoneandlovingtheexperience.

One of my fondest childhood memories is of standing watching mygrandmotherwith vast interest as she applied hermakeup.Her eyebrowswere always a little too dark and slightly crooked. I remember rosy-pinkoverdonecheeks and frosted, “cotton-candy”pink lipstick. “Nonna”worehermakeupfaithfullyeverysingleday.Infact,Ineversawhergoanywhere

withoutit.

Anotherfondmemoryisofmymotherasshepreparedforadateinthevery early ‘70s. It was becoming the latest thing to use mascara on thebottom lashes, and I remember sitting watching her and her look ofconcentrationas shecarefullyapplied it for thevery first time.WhenshefinishedsheturnedtomeandannouncedshefeltthatshelookedabitlikeRaggedyAnn.Ofcourse,Ithoughtshelookedfabulous.

Thenthereweremysisters.Occasionally,aswegotolder,Iwasabletopracticehairandmakeuponthem.Itdidn’thappenthatoftenwhenwewereyoung,becausemymotherthoughtboysshouldnotplaywithhairorpaint faces. I still remember getting my younger sisters (who are twins)readyfortheirprom.Istartedwithhelpingthemshopfortheirdressesandfinished by doing their hair andmakeup for that special night. I guess Ihavealwayslovedthetransformationprocess.

Since education and knowledge is strength, I can only hope that theinformation compiled in my book will encourage you, boost your self-confidence,andhelpyoutorevealyourtruebeauty.

As we end our time together, I want to leave you with this thought:Beauty isn’t just about makeup. It’s about self-confidence, individuality,and the desire to embrace your inner beauty.These are the beautymarksthat really make you unforgettable.Wear them proudly every day, alongwithasmileandyourownsenseofstyle,andyou’llbeabsolutelybeautiful,insideandout.

self-confidenceisthemostimportantelementoftruebeauty.—robertjones

Text©2005byRobertJoneswithLisaBowerandPatriciaYoung

FirstpublishedintheUSAin2005byFairWindsPress33CommercialStreetGloucester,MA01930

All rights reserved.No part of this bookmay be reproduced orutilized, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,withoutpriorpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher.

090807060512345ISBN1-59233-182-3

Digitaledition:978-1-61673-410-7

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataavailable

CoverandbookdesignbyHoltzDesignHairandmakeupbyRobertJonesaccompaniedbySusieJasperRepresentationbySeaminxArtistManagement,www.seaminx.comProducedbyTiffanyMullen,ElaineMoock,andSunniSmythFashionphotographybyJeffStephensFashionstylingbyBarriMartin,DeborahPoints,ChadCurry,andAmySimmonds(assistancestylist)Still-lifephotographybyFernandoCejaandCindyJamesStill-lifestylingbyLindaJantzen

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TableofContentspartonegettingreadychapter1truebeautychapter2thewordschapter3productknowledgechapter4thetoolsparttwomakeupandyouchapter5colorchoiceschapter6canvasprepchapter7skindeepchapter8faceshapechapter9eyeshapepartthreeputtingitalltogetherchapter10basicapplicationchapter11totaltransformationschapter12modelsneedmakeuptooafterword