Magnetizing Miniatures

8/10/2019 Magnetizing Miniatures

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Magnetizing Miniatures

Hey folks,

I have recently started a new thread in the hobby section on my newest army,my Grey Knights

I also included a small tutorial on how I went about to magnetize the entire army, and how tomake sure that all parts within the army are fully interchangeable. A few ppl requested that I

added this tutorial to this section of the boards, so here it goes. This is a copy paste of my first

post.

NOTE: This tutorial is explained for grey knights specifically... but it can just as easily be

translated to marines, or indeed any other model. The basic principles always remain the same,

although the location of the magnets may be different.

Should you wish to, feel free to add your own layouts of magnets to this thread to make it more

widely applicable.

1. Finding the right size magnets.

First of all, I started looking for suitable magnets. They'd have to be strong, so they'd have to beneodymium magnets (aka rare earth magnets).

I tried various sizes, but 2 mm ones seemed like the best option all round. They allowed for

enough weight carry capacity (up to 130gr according to the manufacturer), while being small

enough to fit into the smallest bits (such as the hands).Even with the 2mm diameter however, it

would still be a VERY close call on some bits, so you couldn't afford to be off center. More onthis later.

I got them at this retailer:http://www.supermagnete.be/eng/index.php

Their prices were reasonable and the transport options weren't too bad. I'm sure there are other

suitable retailers however, for those not living in the European Union.The magnets themselves are 2 mm in diameter and have a depth of 1 mm. So to match this, a

quick trip to local hardware store got me a 2 mm drill bit.
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2. Requirements: what will you need.

It's always a good idea to think ahead and have a little list of what you are going to need. So

here's a list of what you'll need if you plan to do ANY magnetization project:- A pin vice with suitable drills (I have 0,5mm, 2mm,3 mm and 4mm bits for this project).

- A toothpick.- Superglue and some superglue accelerator.

- A sharp hobby knife.

- Greenstuff/plastic putty- A crapload of magnets.

The pin vice is a pretty obvious one. You'll need to be drilling a ton of holes into your

miniatures. The toothpick might be less obvious though. You'll be working with magnets andthen tend to... you know... stick to metal tools. Having a toothpick at hand means that you'll have

a tool that will not be affected by the magnets and that'll come in handy at some point, trust meon this...

Superglue is pretty obvious as well, superglue accelerator will be extremely handy to get the job

done faster. Remember to work in a well-ventilated area with this stuff, or you'll be high as a kitein no time!! The rest are just generic things that are always handy when working on miniatures.

Now letsget on with it!

Part 3: Drilling holes in the body.

A good first start point, is a single body. This means that the legs will be glued on the base and

that the torso (when the two halves are glued together) will be glued to the legs as well. Youcould magnetize these as well, but I see no point to this.

The heads can be glued on, but can also be magnetized. For the powerarmoured knights, I glued

the heads on for 4 out of 5 bodies. The fifth one would get an interchangeable head (helmetoption for a regular trooper, or a bare head to be a justicar).

Let that glue cure (plastic glue take a while to set, and you'll be manhandling these models when


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you have at them with your pinning vice).

If you are going to magnetize your army, here's what I suggest:

BE CAREFULL WHEN YOU DRILL HOLES. THEY HAVE TO BE CENTERED!

One thing that can potentially go wrong, is to get the holes for your magnets off center. Themagnets will stick to each other, but the pose you'll end up with, is going to be all screwed up.

To increase your chances of drilling the hole right in the center, you are going to have to workwith pilot holes. These pilots holes will make sure that even the larger drills will stay centered.

Start by taking off all the mold lines and getting a nice flat surface for your shoulder sockets.

Then, with your sharp craft knife, try and find the center spot of the sockets, and make a tinyindentation in the center.

Even when using the smallest drill bit you have, you will have a hard time staying on center, andyou can be A LOT more accurate for this with your craft knife. After this indentation has been

made, get the smallest drill out that you have, and drill into the body. Use this indentation as a

guide for the drill. The body will need 3 (of 4, depending on whether or not you want

interchangeable heads) holes drilled into it. One in each shoulder, and one right above thebulge where the backpack is going to end up.


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After you made these pilot holes, it's safe to have at them with the 2 mm drill. If you notice these

aren't exactly on center, you can still do SOME correcting with your craft knife by making thehole slightly bigger towards the center.


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Then drill the hole with the 2 mm drill. Don't make this hole to shallow, or your magnets will sit

over the surface and the pose will just end up looking weird. Don't drill to deep though, you'llrun the risk of drill straight through the miniature, because these drill will go through plastic like

a hot knife through butter! This is what it should start looking like.


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Now on to the next step: Adding the magnets.

4. Adding the magnets to the body.

PAY GOOD ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!

Obviously, magnets have a given polarity. So it's not a matter of jamming some magnets into


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tiny holes that you drilled out. If you make a mistake with your polarity somewhere, you're

basically boned... because the holes you drill should be so precise, that the magnet is a really

snug fit. That snug fit however, means the magnet isn't going to come out any time soon after thesuperglue has set.

So what I suggest, is to do one FULL TEST model before you move on to any others. That onetest model will determine the polarity of the magnets of all miniatures to follow. This is done soall the miniatures are full interchangeable.

Step 1: Getting the body done.

Luckily, for the FIRST BODY you do, you won't have to be worried about any polarities, but

you will have to start worrying about that once you start attaching the arms. Once you attached

those arms, you can trace back the polarities that will be needed in ALL OTHER bodies fromthat point on.

You first start by adding 3 or 4 (again, depending on interchangeable heads) magnets to thebody. It's rather easy for a straight surface luckily. Just take a single magnet and let it attach to a

steel stave with a flat end and a noticeably larger diameter then the magnet. This can be the

none sharp end of your 4mm drill, or (as I have used) the back end of a sculpting tool.

Just add some superglue into the hole, press the magnet in firmly, so it sits flush with the surface.Once it's in and the superglue has taken a bit, slide the holding stave down the surface and your

magnet should stay in nicely and flush. Do this for all 3 or 4 holes in the body.

Step 2: adding the magnets to the parts that will attach to the body.

Explaining how to take polarity into account is pretty tricky using pictures, so I used my leet

paint skills to make this simple diagram to show you how it's done.


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Like I said: check, check and double check before you jam your magnet into the opposite part. If

it's not right, you are boned. Use that same method of adding the magnets to all parts and bits

that you want to magnetize. I cannot do an example for every single magnet I used in these greyknights, but I have taken a picture of a magnetized grey knight that was disassembled to showyou were all the magnets went in this bad boy.


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Now remember: this is only for a SINGLE weapon configuration. Adding additional weapons

however should be easier and take less effort. If you want to add falchions for example, that'll

only take you 2 extra magnets, because the arms already have them! Same deal with the personal

teleporters. Swapping back backs should only be a 1 magnet affair, so is the demon hammer or ahalberd (if you convert them slightly to be carried by a single hand, rather then two more on

this later!).

Step 3: Making the rest of your models.

Once your FIRST FULL Grey knight is done, you can start doing the others. Using the methodto get the polarity right, you can start working your way back to adding the magnets to the rest of

you bodies. Just use the magnets in the arms of your first grey knight to get the polarity right for

all the bodies of the other guys to follow.TIP: Make a mark on the bottom of the base or something, to remember which guy was the

template sort of speak, for the polarity of all your later miniatures.A little planning ahead, will get you pretty far. As an example of this, I will show you two

pictures of a single body from a grey knight with two different weapon configurations. ALLthese weapon configurations are interchangeable to different bodies, because the polarities all

match.


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What Size Magnet Do I Need?

A MiniWarGaming Magnet Guide

Before you use this guide,it would help to understand the basics of choosing sizes.

In essence, it is pretty easy to figure out what size you need. All you have to do is measure the

space where the magnet will go, then simply choose the largest magnet that will fit in that slot.

If you have a request for an addition to this guide, thenclick here to post it on our forums.

Flames of War

o All

Warhammer 40k

o

Allo Chaos Space Marines

o Space Marines

o Space Orks

o Tau

o Tyranids

Warhammer Fantasy

o All

Warmachine

o

All

Flames of War

All

Any Unit 1/16" x 1/32"1/8" x 1/16"

Almost everything will use 1/16" magnets due to the scale. 1/8"will only be useful in spots that they can fit in.

Warhammer 40k

Any Non-Walker Vehicle 1/16" x 1/32"

1/8" x 1/16"

3/16" x 1/16"1/4" x 1/16"

Vehicles are big enough that they can use almost

any size magnet, so the question is more what kind

of weight it needs to hold.

If you are magnetizing something on the top, a

1/8" magnet should be enough.
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arineshttp://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide#Chaos%20Space%20Marineshttp://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide#Allhttp://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide#Warhammer%2040khttp://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide#Allhttp://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide#Flames%20of%20Warhttp://www.miniwargaming.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=43028


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If you are magnetizing something on the side, a3/16" or 1/4" might be more appropriate,

depending on how heavy the object is.

1/16" are only useful for small wargear options,where no other magnets will fit.

Chaos Space Marines

Daemon Prince 1/8" x 1/16"

3/16" x 1/16"

As with other monstrous creatures, 1/8" will work, but 3/16"

are much stronger and will fit.

Space Marines

Any Regular Troop Size Model 1/16" x 1/32" This applies to any Space Marine Troop sizemodel.

Dreadnought 1/8" x 1/16" No notes

Terminators 1/8" x 1/16" No notes

Space Orks

Big Mek 1/8" x 1/16" No notesBoyz and Nobz 1/16" x 1/32" No notes

Stompa 1/8" x 1/16"

3/16" x 1/16"

1/4" x 1/16"

Again, the size depends on the weight of what you are

holding up. The bigger arms will most likely need 1/4".

Warboss 1/8" x 1/16" No notes

Tau

Any Vehicle 1/8" x 1/16"

3/16" x 1/16"

No notes

Broadside Battlesuit 3/16" x 1/16" It's a tight fit, but the guns are too heavy for 1/8".

Fire Warriors 1/16" x 1/32" No notes
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XV25 Stealthsuits 1/8" x 1/16" No notes

XV8 Battlesuits 1/8" x 1/16" No notes

Tyranids

Carnifex 1/8" x 1/16"3/16" x 1/16"

Either size will work, although 3/16" will be more forgiving.

Gaunts 1/16" x 1/32" No notes

Genestealers 1/16" x 1/32" No notes

Hive Tyrant 1/8" x 1/16"

3/16" x 1/16"

Plastic limbs can use 1/8" magnets, but you'll need 3/16" for

the metal limbs.

Ripper Swarm 1/8" x 1/16" No notes

Warrior 1/8" x 1/16"

1/16" x 1/32"

Use 1/8" magnets on the limb joints, and 1/16" on the limbs

themselves.

Warhammer Fantasy

All

20mm Base Units 1/16" x 1/32" No notes

25mm Base Units 1/16" x 1/32" No notes

40mm Base Units (Monstrous Infantry) 1/16" x 1/32"

1/8" x 1/16"

You'll want 1/8" for metal models,

but sometimes only 1/16" will fit.

Movement Trays 1/8" x 1/16" You'll need to attach a piece of metal

to the bottom of the movement tray.

Use a small amount of green stuff toattach the magnets on the bottom of

each base.

Warmachine

Any Metal Warjack 3/16" x 1/16" If you aren't sure if a Warjack is plastic or metal, then

assume it is metal.

Any Plastic Warjack 1/16" x 1/32"

1/8" x 1/16"

If you aren't sure if a Warjack is plastic or metal, then

assume it is metal.
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16/16

1/16" for the faces, 1/8" for the arms.

Featured Website

Score: 11

Busty's Angels

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Busty's Angels is my journey as a 40k beginner. From scratch you'll see my army as its painted

with battle reports as from when i start. Watch my painting progress as i make my army larger.Add your thoughts and tips to help people who are starting out, a...

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Magnetizing Miniatures

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