The Magic Custom-fit Raglan SweaterA simple, fill-in-the-blanks method for making a raglan sweater that is knit

from the neck down, in one piece, to fit anybody!

Introduction

This raglan is a sweater knit from the neck down, in a single piece on circular needles and can be made to fit any size, from infant to adult. It can also be adapted to become a cardigan, crew-neck, cowl-neck or V-neck (or any other kind of neck, really). You can use any weight of yarn, as well as any stitch and/or color pattern that you desire.

This form of raglan sweater is not new. Jean Dickinson wrote about it in Threads Magazine (“The Magic Raglan”, April 1988, pp. 28-29). She got the idea from Ida Riley Duncan’s The Complete Book of Progressive Knitting (Liveright: 1966, 1961, 1940). This form you are holding in your hands is an updated version of Pamela Costello’s form, published on the Internet (http://www.woolworks.org/patterns/raglan.html) in 1995.

This worksheet will take you through the steps required to design and knit the custom-fit raglan. This is not technically a knitting pattern - it is more of an un-pattern, a road map for the knitter who yearns to break free from the constraints imposed by traditional knitting patterns.

Tools & Materials

• desired yarn, in required amount (see table on following page)

• circular needles, in 16” (40cm) and 19” (48cm) lengths - needle size will depend on yarn

• 2 markers in one color (marker A)

• 4 markers in a second color (marker B)

• flexible measuring tape

• calculator

• pencil (and eraser) for filling out worksheet

Yarn

Weight/color/fiber content:

This is your sweater, so you can choose any yarn you desire! Any weight, color or fiber may be used, but bear in mind a few guidelines:

• natural fibers last longer than synthetic (if you’re going to the trouble of knitting a custom-fit sweater, you want it to last, right?)

• natural fibers also look better and retain their shape

• if you are a beginner knitter, you will find wool more forgiving than cotton or silks blends

• alpaca tends to be heavy and can result in a droopy look - make sure you knit a large swatch if you’re planning to go this route (and make sure you’re honest with yourself about how it looks and feels once you’ve done that)

• “hairy” yarn will obscure any fancy stitch patterns you intend to use - if you’re planning a cable knit sweater, choose yarn that has good stitch definition

• unless you know the person well, you’d be better off sticking with a neutral (or basic) colour

• novelty (read: trendy) yarns will eventually go out of style

• if you’re in a hurry to knit this up, stay away from finer yarns and pick something with some bulk

• if the recipient of the sweater has a “round” shape, stay away from bulkier yarns (they are not flattering to someone who is carrying extra weight) and stick with something that has a bit more “drape”

• if this sweater is intended for an infant or child, you may consider choosing a washable yarn - consult with your LYS operator before purchasing

...continued on next page...

Page 1

Yarn (cont.)

Quantity:

It is impossible to calculate in advance the exact amount of yarn needed. There are simply too many variables in your knitting and in the yarn itself to make an exact calculation. However, you can make a rough estimate that will help in deciding how much yarn to buy, either by using a chart that your LYS salesperson should have, or by referring to the chart below. In any case, always buy one more skein than you think you’ll need. If you save the receipt, you can likely return any full skeins you don’t use (just consult with your LYS).

This chart also gives approximations of the raglan measurements for each standard size. This is provided in case it is impossible to actually measure the intended recipient of the sweater. Since people come in all different shapes, you can achieve a better custom fit by using actual measurements instead of this chart.

Standard Raglan Measurements (inches) and Yarn Requirements (yards)

Child’s Size

Chest NeckRaglanLength

SleeveLength

WristBody

LengthBulky Yarn

Worsted Yarn

SportYarn

2 21 9 7 8 5 6 320 370 450

4 23 9.5 8 9 5.5 7 420 500 600

6 25.5 10 8.5 10 5.5 8 510 620 750

8 27 11 9 11.5 6 9.5 620 750 900

10 28 12 10 13 6 11 660 800 960

12 30 13 10.5 14.5 7 13 790 950 1140

32 13.5 11 16 7 13.5 830 1000 1200

34 14 11.5 16.5 7 14 910 1100 1320

36 14.5 12 17 7.5 14.5 1040 1250 1500

38 15 13 17.5 7.5 15 1080 1300 1560

40 15.5 14 18 8 15.5 1120 1350 1620

42 16 15 18.5 8 16 1200 1450 1740

44 16.5 16 19 8.5 16.5 1250 1500 1800

46 17 17 19.5 8.5 17 1290 1550 1860

48 17.5 18 20 8.5 17.5 1370 1650 1980

50 18 19 20.5 9 18 1400 1700 2040

52 18.5 20 21 9.5 18.5 1500 1800 2160

Page 2

Measurements

Neck circumference (or desired collar size):

Raglan length (measured from collarbone to underarm):

.

Desired sweater body length (measured from underarm,

down side of body):

.

Desired cuff circumference:

.

Desired sleeve length (measured from underarm, along inside of arm):

Determining gauge

Using the yarn you have chosen, cast on 26 stitches. For the first 4 rows, work in garter stitch. Starting at row 5, work the first 3 sts in garter stitch, work 20 stitches in your desired stitch pattern, and knit the last 3 sts in garter stitch. Work this swatch until the center portion measures at least 4” in length and then work 4 more rows of garter stitch, before binding off. Block your swatch and let it dry completely.

Carefully measure the width of your 20-stitch section and insert the number in the box labeled “Swatch Width”, below and perform the calculation as shown:

20 ÷ = Swatch Width G a u g e

Calculating neck stitches (cast-on edge)

Because this sweater begins at the top (collar) and is worked down towards the waist, the next step is to calculate the number of neck stitches required. Following that, you’ll figure out how to divide that number into back, front and two sleeves sections. In these calculations, round any fractional number to the nearest number of whole stitches. Fill in the labeled boxes below to calculate the total number of neck stitches:

x = Neck CircumferenceG a u g e Total Neck Stitches

Page 3

Note: though many sweaters rely on bust/chest measurements, this one does not. The measurements shown are the only ones you will need - I told you, it’s magic!

Total Neck Stitches

Calculating neck stitches (continued)

x 0.33

Back Stitches

x 0.25

Stitches Per Sleeve

Back Stitches

Total Sleeve Stitches

-

-

- 8 (fixed number for increases)

Front Stitches

➊ ➋

➌

x 0.25

Left Front Sts

x 0.25

Right Front Sts

- Right and Left Front Sts

Center Front Sts

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Casting On

The most complicated part of the sweater is the neck opening (the cast-on edge). Once you get past this part, the rest is a breeze!

If you were to simply cast on the total neck stitches in a circle, you would not be able to get the completed sweater over your head! This problem is solved by having the front of the neck dropped. To achieve this, the neck is knit as an incomplete circle, increasing one stitch on each end, every other row, until half of the front stitches have been added. The remaining front stitches are then cast on to complete the circle. **NOTE: This set of instructions will create a crew neck - for other variations, see page 7.**

The four markers of the same color (called marker B) are used to separate the front, sleeves, and back. The two markers (called marker A) are used to keep track of the increases of the front stitches.

The neck is cast on in this order (refer to the oranges boxes on the previous page and use them to fill in the blanks below:

• 1 stitch (to build the right side of the neck front)

• marker A

• 1 stitch (increase stitch)

• marker B

• sleeve stitches + 2 extra increase stitches = .

• marker B

• back stitches + 2 extra increase stitches = .

• marker B

• sleeve stitches + 2 extra increase stitches = .

• marker B

• 1 stitch (increase stitch)

• marker A

• 1 stitch (to build the left side of the neck front)

Refer to the diagram below:

Page 5

Note: The calculation allows for fairly roomy sleeves. If you are designing a sweater for a woman and you’d like slim-fitting sleeves, you may want to try re-assigning some sleeve stitches to the back and front sections by moving the B markers in towards the middle of the sleeves. You want to keep your sleeves centered, so if you “give” one stitch to the back section, make sure you give one to the front, too.

Knitting the Body

Now to the fun part part, at last!

Working back and forth, increase before and after each B marker, on every right side (RS) row. At the same time, increase at the beginning and end of every RS row, until the right-front and left-front stitches have all been added. The center-front stitches are then cast on all at once, before joining to knit in the round.

On the following round (the first actual round), you can remove the two A markers and continue knitting, always increasing before and after every B marker on every second row.

When the raglan length equals the raglan measurement (refer to your diagram on page 3), slip the sleeve stitches on to a holder (or length of contrasting yarn) and remove the B markers. Cast on an additional 1” of stitches under each arm and continue knitting a straight tube, until the desired body length is reached.

*NOTE: if you want to insert some body shaping, consider how you will do that before you get too far with the body. You can narrow up the sweater, leave it straight, have it bell out in an A-line, or shape it into an hourglass. This is all done by inserting increases/decreases under the arm, where the side seam would be, if this were a seamed sweater.

Once you have reached the desired length, bind off. If you do not want your hem to curl, you must insert some sort of ribbing or flat-lying pattern before binding off. If you’re using ribbing, use a needle one size smaller to do so.

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Knitting the SleevesSlip one set of sleeve stitches onto a 16” long circular needle. Pick up the added stitches under the arm and start knitting the sleeve.

*NOTE: if you want to shape the sleeves, you will have to experiment with decreases and spacing. Generally, decreasing one stitch at the beginning and end of the round, every inch works well. You can continue this all the way down the sleeve or stop at the elbow, to create a bell sleeve. You can also play around with increases to create a bloused sleeve, just remember to write down your process so that you can repeat it on the second sleeve!

Eventually, you want to have your desired # of cuff stitches on the needle, so keep that in mind as you’re decreasing:

X =

The same note about the curling of the hem applies to the sleeves, so if you don’t want that to happen, choose a flat-lying stitch pattern and use it before you reach the desired length sleeve. If you’re using ribbing, use a needle one size smaller to do so. Bind off and weave in all your ends.

Cuff CircumferenceG a u g e Cuff Stitches

Knitting the Collar

Pick up every stitch along the neckline (the cast on edge) and knit up a collar. There are many variations (2x2 ribbing, seed stitch, etc), but for the sake of uniformity, you may consider matching the body and sleeve hems to the collar. There are some wonderful books published recently that showcase beautiful edge details and many of them can be applied to this type of sweater to “jazz” it up.

Variations

We’ve hinted at a few of the variations that you can make to this basic pattern, but there are so many, it might make your head spin! Just keep the sweater recipient in mind, as you’re making these decisions.

Page 7

Necklines and Collars

Try making a boat-neck version of this sweater. All you need to do is measure the collar circumference you’d like to create (making sure that it’s big enough to get over your head!). Use the worksheet to figure out your back/front/sleeve stitches, but instead of casting on the way that is described on page 5, cast on all at once and start knitting in the round right away. You won’t need any “A” markers.

If you’d like to make a V-neck, cast on just as is described on page 5, but work the neck front differently. Instead of increasing the front every other row, increase at the beginning and end of every 4 to 6 row until all the front stitches have been added. Join and continue knitting in the round, as for the crew neck.

You can create stand-up collars, fold-over collars, or very minimal collars. You could even just crochet an edge on the neck opening to keep the sweater sweet and simple.

Cardigans

If you’d like to make a cardigan instead of a pullover, there are two methods you can choose from:

1. Add 6 extra stitches to the center front of the neck when you complete the neck shaping and join, just as you would for the pullover. Work these 6 stitches in seed stitch to form a steek down the front of the sweater. Continue the steek all the way down through to the bottom hem. After the knitting is complete, sew on either side of the center of the steek with a sewing machine using a straight stitch. Then cut between the sewing lines (this is not for the faint of heart). Fold the steek to the inside of the sweater and sew it down with yarn. Sew in a zipper, leave the edges plain or pick up the edge stitches and knit up a button band, as desired.

2. Do not join after the neck is complete, but continue to work back and forth for the entire sweater (thus leaving the front open). Sew in a zipper, leave the edges plain or pick up the edge stitches and knit up a button band, as desired.

Colors and Textures

Raglan sweaters lend themselves particularly well to horizontal striping, as the stripes automatically line up across the raglan (and you don’t have to worry about matching up stripes, because you’re knitting this in the round, seamlessly!). This presents an ideal opportunity to use up yarn left over from other projects. Just make sure that all the yarn knits to about the same gauge.

The pattern is written with the intent of creating a very plain, stockinette stitch sweater. Consider it a blank canvas to try cables, stitch patterns with lots of texture, ribbing... whatever you want! Just remember to document your first sleeve so that you know how to get the second one just right.

And more importantly, have fun!

Images are © At My Mother’s Knee. This is for personal and non-profit use only.