MAGAINE - Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers · Coin, Bez Ambar, Aaron Basha, Jack Kelege, Penny Preville...

A T U F T S C O M M U N I C A T I O N S F I N E J E W E L R Y P U B L I C A T I O N

AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2014 • ISSUE 3

M A G A Z I N E

Pretty in Penny

Color, Pattern, and Texture

Kwiat: 100 Years of Diamonds

David Yurman’s World of Beauty

Roberto Coin–Everyday Chic

Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy

Penny Preville’s latest designs combine the shimmer of opal and diamonds

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E Every great story begins with a spark of inspiration. The spark of inspiration for us at Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers is, without a doubt, you…our

customer. Your stories help drive our passion for the pursuit of perfection to deliver the finest quality merchandise, paired with our knowledgeable

employees who consistently strive to deliver the best customer service. We know the man shopping for an exquisite ring is looking for a symbol to

mark the lifelong story of true love. The wife looking for the gift of a handsome watch may end up picking a piece that becomes a chapter in a special

bond built over generations. The customer shopping for a classic necklace could be choosing a piece that becomes an introduction to the tale of a

cherished time or special place. The words that fill the pages in our history have a common thread — our customers. Our customers write the stories

that we enjoy hearing about, filled with love, happiness and wonderful memories. We’re happy to provide the spark.

Each year we see newness appear everywhere — in the living environment, in optimistic attitudes, in rebounding energy, and in long-awaited

color. We anticipate new opportunities to create, improve, and stretch previous boundaries. We continually do just that: test the limits and push the

boundaries in design, in traveling to new sources for the finest diamonds and the latest designs, and in adding value for you in unique and measurable

ways. Our friendship with you is a demonstration of that commitment to be your first and only choice as your personal jeweler. Please enjoy this

latest issue of Fredric H. Rubel Magazine, with our compliments.

We wish you and yours a healthy, joyous holiday and prosperous new year. We look forward to providing you the same personal attention in 2015

as you’ve come to expect from Fredric H. Rubel year after year. Thank you for making Fredric H. Rubel

Jewelers part of your life.

With gratitude,

The Rubel Family

THE KWIAT COBBLESTONE COLLECTION

F. Rubel 9.2014.indd 1 9/9/14 2:28 PM

I S S U E T H R E E • F R E D R I C H. R U B E L M A G A Z I N E

6 Welcome

9 Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy

12 Three Generations

14 David Yurman’s World of Beauty

16 Roberto Coin — Everyday Chic

20 BMWi — Electric Cars With Vision

24 Preville — Pretty in Penny

26 The Ultimate Jewelry Professional

28 Shinola — Made in America

30 Sandra Bullock Trivia

34 Aaron Basha — Tantalizing Talismans

36 Wine — More Flavor, Less Money

38 Color, Pattern, Texture

42 Paradise Island

46 Monica Rich Kosann

48 Jack Kelége

50 Fredric H. Rubel Wedding Planner

16p

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative DirectorCarol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Larry Stuart • Art Director

Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Kyle Boyer • Designer Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography

*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

Fredric H. Rubel Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected] • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

c o n t e n t s

BLACK JADE COLLECTION

F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [9

keeps collectors happy

New colors, jeweling and a

ceramic break-through for Rolex

Every year, amidst a sea of

online predictions and wish-list

postings, watch aficionados and fans

of Rolex eagerly await the brand’s

new introductions. The new models

introduced this year did not disappoint.

b y C A R O L B E S L E R

The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with red and blue

Cerachrom bezel

designer spotlight

10] F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E

The most talked about novelty was the long awaited Oyster Perpetual GMT Master with a

distinctive red and blue bezel (which Rolex lovers call the “Pepsi” because of its coloring). The

GMT Master II captures the color code of the original 1955 version of this iconic model, but

with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely

difficult to do in ceramic, not just in terms of achieving a seamless break between red and blue

halves — a major accomplishment in itself — but because this particular shade of red is a chal-

lenge, and long considered impossible to create in ceramic. (The bezel of the 1955 version was

Plexiglass). The new GMT Master II also has a revamped movement, the self-winding Caliber

3186, with a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is ten-times

more precise than a conventional hairspring and highly shock resistant. The 40mm case is white

gold, and the model is not limited.

Rolex also introduced an updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller this year. The

model was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), and

the new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). The only other revision of

this iconic model was in 1978, also rated at 4,000 feet. New is the black Cerachrom bezel with

PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in

Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. The

new version, which is steel, retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium

escape valve.

Another innovation is a collection of three new versions of the Sky-Dweller: 18k Everose

gold case and bracelet (with a beautiful “Sundust” dial); 18k white gold on a strap; and 18k

yellow gold on a strap. The Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, was first launched to acclaim in 2012

and includes a bezel-driven function setting. With Caliber 9001, it has a dual time zone and

annual calendar, with months uniquely displayed through apertures on the periphery of the dial.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models in 31mm and 36mm sizes previewed exclusive new

dials in sporty colors, including Azzurro Blue, Red Grape, White Grape (a gold tone), Steel and

White Lacquer with blue Roman numerals. The watches contain the Caliber 3130 self-winding

movement, with Parachrom hairspring.

The three new versions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller.


Female collectors are thrilled to see the new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 collection this year, a series of three 34mm models that are gem-set, each with options that include diamonds on the bracelets as well as the cases. Two of the watches are set with diamonds in combination with either blue or

pink sapphires in two different shades — with the gems adjacent to the hour

markers contrasted in a slightly darker hue.

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is another favorite of collectors. An an-

ti-magnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, it was

reintroduced in 2007 with a unique green sapphire crystal, a first in watchmak-

ing. This year’s version features an electric blue dial which, under the green

crystal, takes on a powerful magnetic hue. This is perhaps the most unique

color combination of any other Rolex watch, and is sought after by both men

and women, and by both aficionados and newcomers to the brand alike.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors The Oyster

Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster with diamonds

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss features a new electric blue dial

F


Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers is proof that some of our best ideas come

to us while we’re on vacation. The Family business was established in

October 1928 by Barney and Rose Rubel in San Bernardino California.

Newly married, they were on their way to their honeymoon in Big Bear

Lake and stopped for the night in San Bernardino before taking what was

then a one day trip from there up to the mountain resort. While in San

Bernardino, they noticed some newly built storefronts and decided to

contact a relative for financial support and start a jewelry business. The

name of the business was Crescent Jewelry Company.

Their son, Fredric, joined the family business shortly after graduating

from UC Berkeley in June 1956. Barney had suffered a stroke in 1955,

and Fred came home to help Rose run the business. Fredric’s temporary

plan to come home and help his mom run the family business lasted for

sixty years! One of the first things Fredric did when he began his career

in the jewelry business was to begin taking courses in gemology with the

Gemological Institute of America, via correspondence. He was a big be-

liever in education and becoming the jewelry professional in the town. He

was instrumental in transforming the store from a credit operation into a

fine jewelry store. Along the way, he changed the name of the business to

Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers, and started carrying very fine jewelry and watch

lines. The store stands as the oldest independent Rolex jeweler in Southern

California. Today, Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers has two stores, one located in

Laguna Beach and Mission Viejo, California.

Fredric’s sons, David and Gary, followed in their father’s footsteps,

starting in the business in 1981. “The first thing my dad did was send us

to the GIA to earn Graduate Gemology degrees,” says David. “We are

also very proud of our affiliation with the American Gem Society. My

father, brother and I were recently honored at the AGS conclave in San

Diego for being 30-year AGS title holders with the highest credentials

they offer: Certified Gemologist Appraiser. I believe there is only a hand-

family buisiness

Fredric H. Rubel JewelersA family business for three generations


ful of 30-year CGAs in the country, and we have three in our family!”

There were more honors this year. The Jewelers 24 Karat Club of

Southern California honored Fredric at its recent Annual Dinner Dance

with the prestigious Excellence in Service Award. This award is in rec-

ognition of Fredric’s “leadership, integrity, dedication and outstanding

contribution to the jewelry industry.” The Jewelers 24 Karat Club of

Southern California was formed in 1944 with the main goal of promoting

ethical practices and furthering the honor and traditions of the jewelry

industry. The Excellence in Service Award is their highest honor.

The Rubels are also tremendously proud of their product mix, spend-

ing a considerable amount of time and effort choosing jewelry and time-

pieces that are beautifully designed and crafted using the highest quality

gemstones and precious metals. The store carries some of the most recog-

nizable brands in the industry from some of the most prestigious and

renowned companies in the world, including David Yurman, Roberto

Coin, Bez Ambar, Aaron Basha, Jack Kelege, Penny Preville and Ide-

al Diamonds by Lazare Diamonds. Watch brands include Rolex, David

Yurman and Shinola.

“The signature characteristic of all the products we carry in our stores

is quality,” says David. “We really enjoy selling timeless classic jewelry of

the highest quality and design. Many times clients come into our store

looking for something ‘unique,’ but quite often end up choosing some-

thing very timeless and classic. I think most people want something they

can enjoy for years to come, not something trendy that will be put in a

dresser drawer after a few years.”

The Rubels also work hard to distinguish themselves in their community

by providing unparalleled customer service. “I believe what really makes

us stand out from other jewelry retailers is our attention to the customer,”

says David. “We really try to give the client a great customer experience;

we don’t try to just sell them something and move on to the next person.

We have many customers that we have built very strong relationships with,

who trust us to help them find a beautiful piece of jewelry or a watch to

give to a loved one for a very special occasion or for a self purchase.”

The Rubels feel extremely blessed to reside and have their business

located in one of the most spectacularly beautiful places on earth, Laguna

Beach. This community of approximately 25,000 residences is very car-

ing and extremely charitable. “My brother Gary and I have lived in the

community for almost 25 years,” says David Rubel. “We have raised our

children here, and participated in school, sports and community events

from the beginning. We have supported many causes personally and

through our business. We are especially proud of our association with

Laguna Beach Schools and SchoolPower. We have donated over $80,000

to the Laguna Beach Schools endowment, SchoolPower, and were hon-

ored last year for our giving.”

Whether a customer is looking for a unique, one-of-a-kind piece of

jewelry or something classic, they are sure to find it among the treasures

at Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers. “To me, the most important thing about a

piece of jewelry is that it should be beautiful,” says David. “The elements

that I believe make a piece beautiful are important: using only the finest

materials, great design and, most importantly, craftsmanship. I feel that

selling something precious and rare that can possibly last for generations

and which marks a special occasion or a special moment in someone’s life

puts me in a pretty enviable position. I get to share in someone’s special

moment, and that’s pretty cool.”


The Rubels also work hard to distinguish themselves in their community by providing unparalleled customer service. “I believe what really makes us stand out from other jewelry retailers is our

attention to the customer,” says David. “We really try to give the client a great customer experience; we don’t try to just sell them something and move on to the next person. We have many customers that we have built very strong relationships with, who trust us to help them find a beautiful piece of

jewelry or a watch to give to a loved one for a very special occasion or for a self purchase.”



Cable Buckle bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

Confetti Narrow bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

World of Beauty

DAVID YURMAN’SDavid Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the endur-

ing motifs in everyday life are evident in his collections for this fall.

An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the classic devices of

the equestrian world — stirrups, bits, halters and other equipment used in tack.

The Cable Buckle collection is an evolution of the designer’s original Thorough-

bred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a horse’s

bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and with the designer’s

iconic cable motif in others. The designs are rendered in sterling silver with 14k

yellow gold highlights. Some are set with diamonds.

The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a reinterpreta-

tion of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked rows of metal set with

cushion-shaped gemstones capture the effect of light and color dancing on a

grid. In fact, the original working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a

reference to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement of this

concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic, delicate balance. Colored

gemstones and diamonds are set in a petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a

playful dance.

Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become known

as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of sig-

nature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.

designer spotlight

The designer’s fall collections are inspired by motifs ranging from the equestrian world to confetti


Italian jewelry maestro Roberto Coin is well known for his whim-sical, creative pieces, many of which have graced the red carpet and the covers of high fashion magazines. His genius has produced everything from bracelets in the form of fire breathing dragons to a diamond-studded ring sculpted to resemble the head of a roaring tiger whose tongue is set with pink sapphires. Although these quirky showstoppers often steal the spotlight, Roberto Coin has also demonstrated a deep understanding of the need for well-designed, well-crafted everyday gold jew-elry — not every occasion calls for a roaring diamond tiger. Coin’s day wear tends


Pois Moi is Roberto Coin’s new down-to-earth signature collection for elegant everyday wear

toward the classic — it is wearable, modern, yet occasionally with traditional or vintage design codes, and always made according to the same principles of craftsmanship as the finest piece of high jewelry. His latest signature collection is the Pois Moi, which is distinctive both for its shape and finish. The shape of most of the earrings, rings, bangles, pendants and cuff links in the collection was inspired by the rounded-off square television monitors of the 1950s. Coin’s modern take on this retro shape is both refined and avant-garde, and the col-lection has become an instant classic. The collection’s other signature design code is its pattern of slight indentations or perforations in the gold. This grid of round indenta-tions adds texture and creates subtle light return, an interesting take on the surface finish of gold. “Even if the design appears extremely linear and simple, the manufacturing technique is very complicated and requires the highest precision,” says the designer.

Gold and diamond crossover ring. $6,000

Pave diamond earrings. $8,500

Gold and pave diamond bracelet. $13,000

Gold and pave diamond ring.

$4500

Gold and diamond earrings. $6,000

ChicEveryday

designer spotlight

BL ACK JADE COLLECTION


“After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for some-thing with an innovative design that could become a signature style in the same way,” says Coin. “The design is ultra-modern, with a touch of vintage, so it perfectly fits a woman of any age. “The pattern comes from mixing different ideas,” he says, “including the texturing of the gold and the ‘pois’ (polka dot) trend seen at the Spring fashion shows. This style has never been introduced in the jewelry world. In particular, the soft, square silhouette finds its inspiration in the Italian vintage trend called ‘television shape,’ reminiscent of the old monitors of the 1950s.”

Gold is the primary element, but many pieces are set with diamonds and other gemstones. Many feature pavé diamond details. Each piece includes a hidden 0.3 carat ruby, a signature of the designer, meant to bring good luck to the wearer. Roberto Coin feels the Pois Moi collection is unlike anything he has ever created. In fact, when asked what makes Pois Moi typically Roberto Coin, or how it compares to other pieces in his line, he replies, “It does not compare at all. Pois Moi has a design that I never thought I would create. If five or six years ago you had asked me about a design like Pois Moi, I would unfortunately have answered you that I was not interested at all. The first reason I finally designed the collection is because of the current real market situation. I knew I had to create something that is new, young, innovative and super chic, something powerfully elegant as I like to define the Pois Moi collection.”

As usual, his instincts were right on target. “The reason why it is already an icon is the huge success the collection has had with the public, which is the final arbiter, and because of the extreme elegance that only simplicity can make eternal,” he says. Despite this renewed commitment to the everyday, ac-cessible Pois Moi collection, Coin has not abandoned his love for the glittering showpieces that are his trademark. To the question, ‘what single item of jewelry should every woman should own?’ he replies: “A big and colored cock-tail ring, the larger the better.”

Smokey quartz diamond earrings in rose gold. $5900

Smokey quartz and diamond cocktail necklace. $2,800

Primavera bracelet. $4900

Snake ring. $4,300

Mother of pearl mini cocktail ring. $3200

Amethyst mini cocktail ring.

$3500

Amethyst and diamond earrings. $2600Shanghai single row

bracelet. $5,300

designer spotlight

POIS MOI COLLECTION


ELECTRIC CARS WITH VISION

automotive innovation

BMWi

It’s no secret that electric vehicles (EVs) are becoming popular. Advances in lithium-ion battery technology have made it possible for EVs to achieve driving ranges that put them in league with some gas-powered cars. BMW is moving in the EV market with an approach that is more holistic than that of many companies. The BMW i series embodies a mindset that could help to propel the entire industry forward by making this new technology as convenient as possible. The Bavarian automaker just might be on track to take the EV market by storm and change the way humans get around. One of the problems that has plagued EV manufacturers is their laser-like focus on the development of individual models. This level of focus has its benefits, but the auto industry has demonstrated that scaling a single vehicle is neither easy nor cost effective. It is far better to design with the idea that parts should be shared across as many models as possible. In the long term, this reduces costs and improves reliability. BMW has applied this principle to the development of its “i” sub-brand. Even more to the point, the EV market is split between those who love EVs for the economy they offer and those who love them for their performance. BMW is offering two vehicle classes as part of an effort to meet the disparate desires of two different markets. It is calling the cars i3 and i8, and they will be the first production models under the “i” sub-brand.

BMW i3The i3 is the smaller and more utilitarian or the two i cars, but that doesn’t mean it is lacking in amenities or finesse. While it is designed to be supremely functional, the i3 still offers the performance and polish expected from a BMW. Its target market is the urban dweller who needs reliable, efficient, easy-to-use transportation. The i3 offers just that by making the most of its small size. It has a battery that will get it through the average urban day, is full of functional features, and is small enough to park just about anywhere. The i3 is 100% electric, which means it won’t contribute to urban pollution or degrade air quality, but 100% electric vehicles come with range anxiety. BMW has a trick up its sleeve aimed at alleviating that range anxiety that surrounds the occasional long-range trip, which BMW refers to as “extra-urban.” The company has leveraged its standard ICE business to eliminate the need to own both a gas-powered car and an EV. For individuals in this situation, instead of purchasing a separate car for long trips, BMW guarantees that any time the i3 doesn’t meet that individual’s needs, the company will loan out one of its gas-powered cars. In essence, BMW has eliminated one of the more significant costs associated with owning an EV, which is the need to own a gas car as well.


BMW i8 The i8 is the sportier model. It’s what many refer to as a range extender, because it has both an electric motor and a gas engine. The car is designed to work in two modes: full electric and hybrid electric-gasoline. In electric mode, only the electric motor is engaged. This ensures zero-emissions operation and the highest possible efficiency. The car can manage about 22 miles on a single charge in electric-only mode, making it useful for short urban trips. In hybrid mode, both the electric motor and a small gas engine work together to enhance performance and extend range. The hy-brid drive not only extends the range of the car, but it allows it to be more efficient than a vehicle with a single large gasoline engine. By leveraging the torque of the electric motor and the power-gen-erating capabilities of the gas engine, BMW is able to provide high levels of performance with very low fuel consumption. In hybrid mode, the i8 has a range similar to any gas vehicle.


automotive innovation


The i Concept It isn’t the cars that make the BMW i concept revolutionary so much as it is the attention the company is giving to all aspects of the EV economy. BMW’s focus on a holistic electric economy is reminiscent of its focus on the hydrogen economy of few years ago. While that approach hit technological hurdles, it didn’t dissuade BMW from the merits of focusing an an entire industry rather than a small subsection of it. BMW has made it a goal to promote customer convenience just as much as the environment with its new i series. The result is a concept that takes a lot of the pain out of switching to an electric transportation infrastructure. Part of BMW’s plan was described above in regards to its gas loaner program for extra-urban trips, but the company has gone further than that.

Carbon Fiber The i cars are the only series-produced passenger vehicles made of carbon fiber. Carbon is 30% lighter than aluminum of the same strength, which makes it ideal for weight-critical applications. In fact, the weight savings from using carbon fiber for the i series are large enough to offset the additional weight of the lithium-ion batteries. This breakthrough is the result of a decade of research at BMW into how to automate the production of carbon fiber components. BMW has gone so far as to locate the factory that produces the carbon fiber in an area where hydroelectric power will provide 100% of the plant’s energy needs. This helps to offset the massive energy requirements of the carbon fiber production process.

LifeDrive LifeDrive is the term BMW is giving to its approach to EV manufacturing. The philosophy breaks car design into two parts. There is the passenger module and the drive module. The drive module is made up of the battery, suspension, and drive components, while the passenger module contains the user interface, climate control, etc. By separating design and production along these lines, BMW has accomplished several things. First, it has increased space in the passenger area of small vehicles. They can now offer as much room as some larger vehicles because drive components don’t intrude into passenger space. The result is increased

space without an increase in the overall footprint of the car. This means more energy goes into actually moving passengers rather into moving components of the car. The second accomplishment realized by BMW’s approach is that of maximum modularity. Moving forward, this will allow the company to perfect drive components separate from interior components, speeding up both the design and testing phases of production. The result is decreased production costs and thus decreased vehicle costs. Finally, BMW’s approach reduces weight, allows for maximum insulation against road noise, and provides for enhanced safety features. The company claims that the i3 will offer the first completely silent driving experience as a result of modular construction.

The Bottom Line The modular concept is likely to become the standard for vehicle manufacturing in the future. In fact, it may even allow for a refueling option in which the passenger module is simply transferred to a fresh drive module. Whatever the outcome, BMW is using its considerable position in the automotive industry to push not just a new technology, but a new way of thinking about personal transport.

The secret to award-winning designer Penny Preville’s pop-

ularity is staying attuned to fashion and culture, while adhering

to her own signature style. “I believe in continuity,” says the de-

signer, who is known for her intricate detail work and millegrain

finishing, as well as her keen sense of color. Shades of blue are

a recurring theme in her jewelry, and this year deeply saturated

opal, combined with sparkling diamonds are in the forefront.

“For the new diamond pieces, I was inspired by the Art Deco

era of the 1920s and 1930s,” says Preville. “I love the grace of

the curves, combined with the architectural elements of the

period. That’s what brought these new pieces to life for me.”

Opal is also a key gem for the designer. “I’ve incorporated

unique opals into my designs, as they allow me to display a

rainbow palette of colors,” she says. “With an array of shades

from midnight blue, transitioning into blue green, along with

flashes of intense pink, these opals remind me of a sunset at the

beach, as day turns into evening.”

Preville was one of the first winners of the Designer of the

Year award at the Jewelers of America Show in New York. Since

then, she has been winning the hearts of jewelry lovers across

America with her collections. Throughout the years, she has

been the recipient of the Blenheim Award for Continued Excel-

lence in Design, Town & Country’s Diamond Designers Excel-

lence Award

and Out-

s t a n d i n g

Achievement

in Advertising

and Marketing

Award and The

Women’s Jewelers

Association Award

for Excellence in

Design.

“I’ve always found

inspiration in a wom-

an’s lifestyle. I thrive on

designing pieces that can

be worn every day, from day

to night, as well as pieces that

express a woman’s individuality.”

Her inspirations are constantly

changing. “I have studied jewelry designs

and cultures from all over the world,” she says. “I am inspired

by travel, architecture and art, as well as different eras in his-

tory. The influences on my collections span from Imperial

Russia to Byzantine, Indian Raj to Art Deco.” Her growing

list of fans includes Sofia Vergara, Sandra Bullock and Jennifer

Lopez.



designer spotlight

Penny Preville’s latest designs combine the shimmer of opal and diamonds

pennypretty in

Aqua bead necklace and sapphire bead necklace.

Blue jean aquamarine pendant. $2875

Blue jean aquamarine drop earrings. $2995

Penny Preville Jewelry

Ad #3

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FredricRubelHolidayMag_9x10.875.indd 9” x 10.875”

09/26/14Fredric Rubel Holiday Magazine

DescriptionFilename

Publication

JobClient Penny Preville

FredricRubelHolidayMag_9x10.875.indd 1 9/24/14 4:13 PM


The Ultimate Jewelry Professional

What does it mean to be AGS-certified?There are a handful of select jewelry stores in the U.S. who call them-

selves AGS retailers, holding one of the titles bestowed by the American Gem Society. But what does it really mean? The short answer is that there is a lot more to being an AGS jeweler than simply paying a fee and be-longing to an association. AGS credentials must be earned and maintained.

The American Gem Society was founded in 1934 by a small group of leading jewelers. Their goal was to create an organization that could help protect the jewelry-buying public from fraud and false advertising. That purpose was naturally extended to ongoing education, resulting in the highest standard of knowledge in the industry. Today, approx-imately 3,400 jewelers, retailers, suppliers, individual titleholders and affiliates have earned the right to join the American Gem Society by dedicating themselves to consumer protection, ethical business prac-tices and the development and maintenance of superior gemological skills and knowledge.

Only 1 in 20 jewelers have met the exacting requirements necessary for membership. To join AGS, every member must go through a peer-reviewed application process, followed by an annual recertification exam. This process ensures that every AGS member you meet is at the top of their game, and more importantly, each one has pledged to protect the consumer.

The following titles are earned through the American Gem Society:

Registered Jeweler, RJTo earn this title, a jeweler must truly understand jewelry, diamonds

and gemstones. To earn this title, the associate must complete extensive coursework and classroom study, along with written and practical exams in diamond grading.Certified Gemologist, CG

A Certified Gemologist has taken advanced studies in diamonds and colored gemstones. A CG also demonstrates mastery of diamond, gem-stone, and precious metal testing procedures.

Certified Gemologist Appraiser, CGAThis title is the most highly regarded among peers in the jewelry in-

dustry. It certifies that the title holder can not only identify diamonds, gemstones and jewelry but also determine their value. It requires ad-vanced training and experience in determining the value of diamonds and gemstones.

Independent Certified Gemologist Appraiser, ICGAThis title represents individuals whose sole business is appraising. He

or she does not purchase or sell diamonds, gemstones or jewelry. To receive this certification, the appraiser must complete the requirements for RJ, CG, and CGA, as well as an extensive course in personal prop-erty appraising. He or she must not only complete the annual recerti-fication exam, but also submit proof of continuing education in their field every five years.

Certified Sales Associate, CSAA salesperson with this designation behind his or her name has passed

the Graduate Sales Associate course and the AGS Professional module. This assures you that the salesperson is knowledgeable about the dia-monds and gemstones they are selling.

Certified Jewelry Arts Professional, CJAPThis designation is for those members who have completed studies in

the art of jewelry repair and/or manufacturing.

b y C A R O L B E S L E RAGS certified

Kwiat Platinum round and pear shape diamond drop earrings.


Thanks to its long history in watchmaking, the United States is fertile ground for a new generation of watch companies with a Made in America hallmark of distinction. Shinola takes it one giant step further, offering not only American-soil roots but also a “Built in Detroit” ideology. Most compellingly, Shinola turned 30,000 square feet of space in the former Argonaut building in midtown Detroit into a state-of-the-art watch manufactory, thus melding the city’s storied past with a confident anticipation of its future.

The company’s first timepiece, the much-anticipated limited edition Shinola Runwell, formally introduced in 2013, sold out in an astounding eight days. It was followed by new designs in the Runwell style, as well as other collections with such interest-ing names as The Birdy, The Brakeman, and The Gomelsky, each

T h e S h i n o l a w a T c h b r a n d i S p r o u d l y m a n u f a c T u r e d a n d aSS emb l ed i n de T ro i T, and a l r e ady haS a l o ya l f o l l ow i ng

Made in America

b y N A N C Y O L S O Ndesigner spotlight

The Gomelsky, 36mm steel case with rose gold-colored bezel and white dial.

The Runwell Chronograph, 47 mm, with black dial and orange accents.


distinguished by its unique shape and character. The all-quartz steel watches come in a variety of sizes and styles, from a 28mm ladies Runwell to 47mm chronographs. The timepieces display the name and number of the watch movement on the dial and reveal each piece’s serial number on the caseback. And not sur-prisingly, the finely crafted straps offer Shinola yet another op-portunity to walk its talk: each strap is also made in America.

The leather straps are produced by the Shinola Leather Co. in Detroit and Hadley-Roma in Largo, Florida — from Ameri-can leather, of course. The U.S.-born Hadley-Roma, founded in 1903 in Hadley, Massachusetts, has grown its stellar reputation on its American-made products, including watch straps in a variety of styles, colors, and materials. Shinola’s rubber straps, found on some of its sports-style watches, are made from American rubber by Stern Manufacturing in Staples, Minnesota.

Entirely hand assembled in Detroit, the Runwell collection is characterized by its round steel case — some with PVD coatings — and retro spirit. The watch comes on a strap or bracelet, and offers a variety of dial color options and functions. The Brake-man, available in 40mm or 46mm, is characterized by its cush-ion-shaped case and date window at 3 o’clock.

Women are not left behind when it comes to Shinola’s range of timepieces. The 34 mm Birdy features a round case and slender bracelet or double-wrap strap in on-trend colors — like orange or white leather. And the Gomelsky, with its cushion shape and small seconds at 6 o’clock, is a go-to watch for day or evening.

A special collector’s club named The Foundry was established by Shinola exclusively for owners of its limited edition products, thus the company is well poised to entertain a variety of collectors and their myriad interests. Membership benefits include invita-tions to private events, an annual tour of the Shinola Detroit fac-tory (airfare not provided), first access to limited edition watches and previews of upcoming products.

In partnership with Ronda AG, the Swiss quartz movement manufacturer, Shinola employs about 285 people, the vast major-ity of whom call Detroit their home town. In 2012, Swiss watch-makers were brought on site to teach the intricacies of watch and movement assembly to the newly hired staff, and the result is a team-spirit enthusiasm that is palpable — and transcendent, since there is much more at work here than watchmaking.

Shinola’s larger mission of bringing manufacturing back to the U.S. is evident at every turn, from its investment in the city, which it affectionately dubs, “the new watchmaking capital of America,” to the quality of the watches, proudly marked “Built in Detroit” on the caseback. Bedrock Manufacturing, parent of Shinola, thought-fully considered a number of other locations besides Detroit. But with its long legacy in American manufacturing — and its enthusi-astic work force — the Motor City won out, hands down.

The Brakeman in steel with a blue dial and date on a leather strap.

The Shinola Runwell with Date, 36mm rose gold-colored case.

Trivia


Sandra BullockIt’s hard to find someone who doesn’t like actress Sandra Bullock. She has that charming, all-American girl-next-door appeal. Her sweet demeanor extends to both comedic and dramatic roles on screen. How much do you know about some of Sandra’s most memorable movies? Take our test and see.

1. Sandra Bullock and the rest of the cast play teenagers from varied backgrounds in Who Shot Patakango (1989). When and where does the movie take place?

2. In Love Potion #9 (1992), Sandra Bullock plays Diane Farrow. What is her profession?

3. Sandra Bullock plays police lieutenant Lenina Huxley in the sci-fi crime drama Demolition Man (1993). What is the name of the futuristic utopian city she presides in?

4. What is the title of the 1994 movie that put Sandra Bullock, as the courageous Annie, on the road to fame and who is her male costar?

5. What is the title of the 1995 movie in which Sandra Bullock plays Lucy Moderatz, a Chicago Transit Authority token collector who falls in love with two brothers?

6. In the romantic historical movie In Love and War (1996), Sandra plays a nurse during WWI. What famous real writer does she become romantically involved with?

7. Which actress plays Sandra Bullock’s troubled sister in Practical Magic (1998), a film about the generational bonds among a family of witches?

8. What is the title of the 2002 movie in which Sandra Bullock and her mother have a huge rift over Sandra’s published complaint that she had an unhappy childhood?

9. In The Lake House (2006), Sandra Bullock plays Doctor Kate Forster and her love interest, Alex Wyler, is played by Keanu Reeves. What is Wyler’s profession?

10. The Blind Side, (2009) based on a true story, features Sandra Bullock as a mother who adopts a young man who eventually becomes an NFL football player. What are the names of these two real life individuals?

b y D A N I E L L E O L I V I A T E F F Tcelebrity secrets

1. Who Shot Pantango (1989) takes place in 1950s Brooklyn, New York.2. Diane Farrow is a biologist.3. The name of the futuristic utopian community Lieutenant Lenina Huxley

presides in is San Angeles.4. The title of the 1994 movie that put Sandra Bullock on the road to fame is

Speed. She costars with Keanu Reeves.5. The title of the 1995 movie in which Sandra Bullock falls in love with two

brothers is While You Were Sleeping.6. In Love And War (1996), Sandra becomes romantically involved with young

Ernest Hemingway.7. Actress Nicole Kidman plays Sandra Bullock’s troubled sister in Practical Magic

(1998). 8. The 2002 movie in which Sandra’s character has a huge rift with her mother is Divine

Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood.9. Alex Wyler is an architect.10. Sandra Bullock plays Leigh Anne Touhy, a mother who adopts future NFL football

player Michael Oher.

Answers

WE ARE AN AMERICAN COMPANY DEDICATED TO MAKING THINGS AGAIN IN AMERICA.

THE RUNWELL FEATURING A WHITE DIAL WITH REMOTE SECONDHAND SWEEP IN A

STAINLESS STEEL CASE AND DETROIT-BUILT ARGONITE 1069 MOVEMENT.

F Founded in 1907 in New York City,

Kwiat has been family owned and

operated for more than 100

years. Sam Kwiat arrived

in the United States on a

steamship from Europe

and, upon arrival, opened

a diamond jewelry store

in the heart of New York

City’s diamond district —

at the time, downtown near

the financial district.

He quickly earned a reputation

as a skilled diamond merchant who

was highly regarded for his expertise in

cutting exceptional diamonds.

Sam’s son, David, joined the family business in 1933. Like his

father, David was a talented designer and craftsman who, over time,

formed an impressive collection of important diamond jewelry that

could be found at the most exclusive shops on New York’s Fifth

Avenue and around the world.

b y H E D D A S C H U P A Kspotlightdesigner

Kwiat jewelry is a favorite on the red carpet


100 Yearsof Diamonds

Platinum and diamond snowflake drop earrings.

Natalie Portman

Halle Berry

Claire Danes


By the 1960s, David had become a renowned diamond mer-

chant. In 1965 he purchased a 126-carat rough diamond that

yielded the 50-carat “Teardrop of Africa,” cut for famed jeweler

Harry Winston. This cemented his reputation as one of the finest

diamond cutters in the world.

Kwiat diamond jewelry is a favorite of celebrities on the red carpet.

Whether it’s the Oscars, Emmys, Grammys, or any other glamorous

event, there are sure to be multiple stars draped in Kwiat jewels: Natalie

Portman, Michelle Williams, Claire Danes, Tina Fey, Fergie, Halle Berry,

Emmy Rossum, Glenn Close, and many more. Even the men love a Kwiat

diamond: Tom Cruise and Forest Whitaker, to name just two!

In 2007, in celebration of its 100th anniversary, the Kwiat family opened a

flagship boutique in New York City’s luxury shopping district on Madison Ave-

nue. To this day, Sam’s grandsons, Sheldon and Lowell, and his great-grandchildren

run the business according to the same principles that established the family legacy:

integrity, quality, craftsmanship and design.

100 Years of Diamonds

Kwiat Echo double diamond loop earrings, which were worn by actress Emmy Rossum.

Diamond strings necklace in 18k white gold.

Glenn Close Emmy Rossum Michelle Williams


Tantalizing Talismans

Aaron Basha is most celebrated for its famous jeweled Baby Shoe pendants, originally conceived to celebrate the birth of the founder’s first grandchild. Since then, the company’s trademark theme has been “Forever Young,” with whimsical charms, bracelets, rings and necklaces, many with symbolic meanings and motifs. The brand’s newest collection, Fluorescent, or “FLUO” resonates with this spirit of joie de vivre. “The vibrant, high-energy colors in the collection are very happy,” says Sasson Basha, president of the company and son of founder Aaron Basha. “They are also fashionable. Vi-brant fluorescent colors are dominating cloth-ing, handbags and accessories right now. We do tend to follow fashion trends, and create prod-ucts that are very wearable and fun,” he adds. The colorful, cheerful charm-based jewelry

of Aaron Basha has been charming collectors since the 1950s, and the brand’s aesthetic — with its baby-shoe charms, lady bugs and other whimsical motifs — may be cute, but the jew-elry is not only for children. “The collection is young at heart, but the jewelry is ageless,” says Sasson. “There are no boundaries. Our pieces are 18k gold, many with diamonds and precious gemstones, and they are all hand made in Italy.” The Evil Eye is another favorite collection. It falls into the category of symbolic charms and tokens of love and is said to protect the wearer from bad energy. Like the ladybug, it is a sym-bol of good luck. “We didn’t invent the symbolism of the Evil Eye, but we have contemporized it and made it into fine, fashionable jewelry,” says Sasson. “People crave good luck. The world is going through such turmoil, everyone wants to hold onto some good energy, and this is seen as a tal-

isman that will protect them and their families from harm.” The collection is made of twinkling chains of 18k gold, set with diamonds, strung with a choice of Evil Eye charms. Aaron Basha jewelry collections are distrib-uted worldwide through a very exclusive net-work of top retail jewelers. In the United States, only 60 retailers carry the jewelry. Fans of the collection include Jennifer Lopez, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Madonna, and Heidi Klum.

Our motto is: “We take fun seriously,” says Sasson Basha, son of founder Aaron Basha,

and president of the company.

b y C A R O L B E S L E Rdesigner spotlight

The Aaron Basha jewelry collection is all about good karma and good fun

Aaron Basha Evil Eye bracelets in 18k gold with diamonds and enamel, on colorful silk cords.

Aaron Basha’s trademark Baby Shoe Charms in 18k gold, enamel and diamonds.

Leather bracelets with diamond and gold links adorned with Aaron Basha charms.

As with any wine, the temperature at which you serve pinot noir is key to perceiving the nu-merous and subtle flavors. Serving a glass at the right temperature will enable you and your guests to experience everything the wine has to offer.

First of all, a little background is in order. A pinot noir wine starts with pinot noir grapes, which are grown all over the world. The most famous pinot noirs are grown in

France’s Burgundy region, but many other wonderful varieties come from California and Canada. Interesting tidbit: A champagne is produced by blending chardonnay

and pinot noir grapes. Pinot Noir’s darkened reddish color comes from the pro-cess used to produce the wine, where the clear pinot noir juice is left touching the dark grape skins.

What flavors should you expect from a properly served glass of pinot noir? After all, the primary reason to be mindful of serving temperatures is the subtle flavoring of the wine. Though pinot noir’s notes do vary from region to region, there are nevertheless a few common flavors you can expect to find in a well-served glass: smoke, black cherry, mushroom, leather, plum, tomato, berries, and earth. A well-served pinot noir will also have a rich, velvety, soft, and full to medium-bodied quality.

And what about serving temperature? Finding the best temperature to store and serve pinot noir involves a delicate balancing act. Do it right and

you will preserve all the above-listed characteristics perfectly. Your wine will stay a beautiful balance of fruit, alcohol, and acidity that reveals the subtle

nuances of flavor.

Serving temperature does not change these characteristics, contrary to popular belief. Temperature affects the degree to which your palate can interpret them. Pinot noir is

best served at slightly below what most consider room temperature. It is a myth that red wines are room-temperature wines. Room temperature is too warm. Lighter-bodied red

wines like pinot noir should be served around 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or 12.8 degrees Celsius. As you serve the wine, be careful to hold the glass correctly. Hold the stem of the glass such that your hand does not warm the wine as you pour and as you lift the glass to your lips. If you’re drinking with stemless glasses, only pick up the glass when you’re planning to take a sip.

It can be helpful to store bottles of pinot noir in a basement or refrigerator to help them last longer. Storing bottles at room temperature means you have to cool them down prior to serving, typically by leaving them in the refrigerator for two hours. Don’t cool them down too far or you’ll miss more subtle aspects of the wine.

Storing the wine in an area that’s too warm, on the other hand, can actually affect the wine’s flavor profile. If you store a pinot noir, or any wine, in a place where it will be too warm for a long period, the wine can age prematurely, or the flavor may break down. The same goes for storing the wine at temperatures that are too cold. The best temperature for storing red wines, like pinot noir, is the same temperature at which they are best served.

wine & spirits

Pinot Noirhow to serve your


A


Color, Pattern, and Texture Define Fall Fashion and Jewelry

Design and color for all 2014 are inspired by everything from

books, artisan crafts, photography and retro architecture to gour-

met food, vintage fabrics and exotic landscapes. On the fashion

runways, seven key directions stand out for the season: oversize

tailoring, ’60s inspiration, fur, knit layers, pastels, plaids and shine.

Many of the season’s trends center on texture and coziness;

designers seem to be latching on to the concept of comfy,

wearable dressing. Texture is a big direction for the season,

especially prevalent in arts and crafts looks, some even taking

on the nubby appearance of hand-woven carpet. Moreover,

animals of all kinds are embroidered, printed and collaged onto

an array of garments, with birds a favorite. Statements remain

simple, and renderings beautiful.

Michael O’Connor, jewelry stylist and Reelz Channel host

of MovieStyle with Michael O’Connor, sees international in-

fluences, particularly Asian and Indian, inspiring exotic color

blocks and mixes in fashion and accessories. Design tendencies

are bigger, bolder and more colorful.

b y D E B O R A H Y O N I C Kfashionable influences

Left: Model from Le Vian’s annual Las Vegas Red Carpet Review. Center and right, models in the Academy of Art University show and the Marissa Webb show both during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center in New York City. (Photo center by Randy

Brooke/Getty Images for Academy of Art University; photo right by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz)

PAMELA HORTON & AMANDA HORTON 949.633.6667 | 949.422.6122

[email protected] | [email protected] ton.com

&A M A N D A H O RT O NPAMELA HORTON

YOUR CHOICE FOR RESIDENTIAL REAL ESTATE REPRESENTATIONSelling Luxury Properties Since 1989

EXPERIENCE | PERSONALIZED SERVICE | PROFESSIONALISM | RESULTSContact Pamela & Amanda to Discuss Your Real Estate Needs Today

PAMELA HORTON | 949.633.6667 | [email protected]

AMANDA HORTON | 949.422.6122 | [email protected]

www.PamelaHorton.com

1000028952 [P].indd 1 9/29/14 1:25 PM


Because everyone is looking for more value these days, there has been a blurring of the line between fashion and fine, with beauty found in lesser quality gems, weight saving cuts (slices, doublets) and rough crys-tals. There is also a greater use of contemporary met-als and non-precious elements like wood and leather. The goal is to create jewelry that is comfortable and appropriate to wear every day.

COLOR & PATTERN Popular patterns this fall include chevron, houndstooth, plaid

and lacey florals, all of which are re-imagined in artful, colorful

mixes of gems and metals, says Eddie Le Vian, designer and CEO

of Le Vian. Also important are long links as details in rings and

pendants or layered in earrings.

The wrap style is also back. “For Fall 2014, this design ten-

dency can be found in tops, skirts, shoes and bags, and translated

in jewelry with overlapping swaths of stone studded gold,” Le

Vian says of the wrap. He also reminds us that 2015 is the Year

of the Horse, so we are seeing more equestrian details (saddles,

reins, bits, stirrups, horseshoes) in jewelry and watches.

Among the most sought after gems in the fall color palette are

the “ite” stones: morganite, kunzite, iolite, azurite, labradorite,

rubellite, rhodolite and Tanzanite. Realizing the strength of Ra-

diant Orchid, Pantone’s 2014 Color of the Year, designer Gregg

Ruth has seen tremendous demand for his latest Baby Pinks col-

lection of natural pink diamond jewelry, which exhibits the full

range of pink and purple hues that are prominent in fashion and

jewelry.

Undoubtedly, a spectrum of gems is en vogue, with mixing col-

ors and shapes a strong trend in design, a defining mark for brands

like Vianna. Expressing its Brazilian DNA in a mosaic of gems

like tourmaline, beryl, topaz and quartz, Vianna is recognized for

unexpected combinations of color and shape, both traditional and

fancy, which complement key trends for the coming season.

C O L O RP A T T E R NT E X T U R E

A model walks the runway at the Libertine fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 at Lincoln Center in New York City. (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz)

Aaron Basha pink flower shoe and puffed diamond heart charms on a taupe strap with pave clasp.

Aaron Basha flower bracelet. $1600

Rutilated quartz ring in rose gold and diamonds. $4900

Steven Kretchmer double loop rose and yellow gold tension set necklace. $5750

Aaron Basha flower and evil eye bracelet. $1900


DESIGN DIRECTIONS Amanda Gizzi, spokesperson for the Jewelry Information

Center, says significant design directions for the coming sea-

son include: abstract minimalism, characterized by clean lines,

unfussy silhouettes; jewelry that moves or transforms; three-di-

mensional, detailed patterns; geometric prisms, graphic design;

rococo style, scrollwork, floral motifs; Byzantine inspiration,

mosaics, textures, and color variation; mysterious construc-

tions, asymmetrical silhouettes, ornate irregularities; and ori-

gami, pleated surfaces, layering and angular cutouts.

Mega design directions, according to Swarovski , Austri-

an-based creator of precision cut genuine and created gem-

stones and crystal design, include Eastern European influences

in folkloric traditions and handicrafts, alternative ways of

wearing jewelry like ear cuffs and head ornaments; creatures,

juxtaposing natural and man-made materials in hybrid flora; in-

timacy, emotional design that connects to all senses — message,

perfume and body jewels; classics inspired by antiquity with a

strong reference to architecture in armor-like designs, intaglios,

cameos and ancient coins; and primal energies, exploring the

physical and metaphysical — think chakra balancing jewels.

The key to great fashion and jewelry design is versatility,

says Amanda Coakley of Goshwara. Paramount for the New

York brand is to create designs that are adaptable, as seen most

keenly in its latest collection, aptly named Freedom.

“Two huge trends in fashion and jewelry have been layering, as well as the super simple, chic look. These directions are translated in pendants that can be worn with or without stones, paved in dia-monds or a clean metal look, and available in every color, includ-ing amethyst, blue topaz, citrine and moon quartz. Wear a simple teardrop pendant on long chain or multiple pendants and colors lay-ered on the neck. Bold, liberating, inspiring!”

Penny Preville Firebolt necklace and deco

scroll chain.

Kwiat multi-color gemstone stacking bands.

Kwiat multi-color gemstone hinged bangle bracelets.

Monica Rich Kosann gate locket. $7500


Paradise IslandM A U R I T I U S

After Mark Twain was bowled over by the beauty of Mauritius, he quoted an islander, saying “that Mauritius was made first,” by God, “and then heaven.”

The island, in the Indian Ocean east of Madagascar, remains a place where luxury, charm, and character are elevated by soul. Elegant resorts among the world’s fin-est tropical hideaways vie to highlight Zen, Feng Shui, or Ayurvedic credentials, and a sense of natural harmony is as important as Givenchy spas, personal butler service, and champion-designed golf courses. Add the distinctive-ness of varying coastal resort settings, a soaring mountain backdrop here, and a genuine fishing village vibe there.

Mauritius offers all the touchstones of other tropical beacons in terms of pristine, palm-bedecked white sand beaches, blue lagoons, and a lush interior full of natural

wonders. But it adds a brilliant cultural melting pot vibe where French, British, Indian, Chinese, and Dutch influ-ences mix sweetly. If there’s a festival to be had, Mauri-tians hop aboard irrespective of which particular gods are the excuse for the party!

This cultural mix sprinkles Mauritius with historic sites many tropical getaways could only dream of. At-mospheric Buddhist temples rub shoulders with opulent Catholic shrines, while the ten-meter tall sacred Hindu statue of Shiva by the crater lake of Grand Bassin is a must-get snap. Add colonial mansions worthy of star-bill-ing in World of Interiors, plus tea and sugar plantations steeped in colorful history. This is an island truly blessed with perfect outings for travelers wanting more for their long-haul buck than uninspiring fly and flop.

tropical getaway

Take Eureka House, an elegant 1830 Creole mansion by the River Moka, where British and French aristocrats lived the life of Reilly amid magnificent gardens. Now you can enjoy this ravishing antique-filled time capsule stuffed with period arts and antique Chinese and Indian furniture, complemented by garden trails and river waterfalls. Refuel at the Old Kitchen restaurant with island dishes such as smoked marlin or dry beef curry with pumpkin fricassé and peanut rougaille.

For a different poke into grand colonial lifestyle, hit the 1850s Château de Labourdonnais, a tropical take on Italian neo-classical style. Its orchards and spice groves are a scented riot of nutmeg, clove, and papaya, a green paradise grazed by giant Aldabra tortoises. The chateau restaurant is excellent, and you can discover the joys of Mauritian rum by way of aperitif or digestif at the adjacent Rhumerie des Mascareignes.

If you fancy something not quite as strong, earn yourself a cuppa on the island’s Tea Trail. Founded in 1892, Bois Chéri

mauritius island

is the biggest and oldest plantation, offering a museum and a tea factory where you can taste some of its 42 varieties of tea while soaking up pan-oramic views across the south of the island. The Domaine des Aubineaux, meanwhile, centers on a colonial house decorated with 17th-century East India Company gems. Both plantations offer fantastic afternoon teas — yes, with scones — more memorable than any grand British hotel!

Make time to dip into some of the island settlements too, kicking off in the bustling 17th-century capital Port Louis. Browse upmarket duty-free stores on the Caudan Waterfront, sniff and snap in the technicolor food market, check out a real-life dodo skeleton at the Natural History Museum, and then dream of skipping across the lake of giant water lilies in the vast 300-year-old Botanic Garden. And if you’re feeling lucky, you could try and win back your airfare with a flutter at Champs de Mars, one of the world’s oldest racecourses.

Mahebourg, where the Dutch landed in 1598, was capital before Port Louis and remains a bastion of old-school Mauritian style with a pink-


tropical getaway

Beach beds, umbrella, and jetty on the beach on Mauritius Island

Sunset at a luxury Mauritus resort

Port Louis Mauritius city skyline

The beauty of the links in Mauritus

Local band playing and dancing Sega. It has origins in the music of slaves on the island and is usually sung in Creole.

Waterfalls at the park in Chamarel

paved waterfront where rustic restaurants beckon before or after a visit to the island’s main history museum, housed in dreamy 18th century splendor. Village hideaways like Triolet and Bananes, meanwhile, offer a chance to get close to daily island life with a pew at a local bar or snacking on deli-

cious street food like dhal phuri (the island’s best comes from Dewa’s in Rose Hill), while soaking up the color and hubbub of the daily food markets in almost every town. A good choice is Chamarel, whose surroundings include some of Mauritius’s top natural attractions: the verdant rainforest of the Black Gorges National Park with its range of easy hiking options, the plunging silvery thread of the Chamarel Falls, plus the surrealistic geological folding simply dubbed the Seven Coloured Earths.

After a day of intrepid exploring, take a break from your resort restaurants with a dip into the island’s fine dining scene. Domaine de Bel Ombre (domainedebelombre.mu) is a candlelit restaurant set in a colonial mansion where fusion platters might include pheasant with tamarind confit. Reservations are essential; try for a balcony table. Or to try unforgettable Mauritius-style Chinese, head for Domaine Anna (domaineanna.net) in the middle of a cane field, approached on a torch-lit path. While it’s open for lunch, treat yourself to dinner in thatched waterside gazebos amid tropical gardens.

tropical getaway

mauritius island

For more luxe living, intimately memorable experiences abound through local operators such as Mauritius Attractions (mauritiusattrac-tions.com). Book a gastronomic dinner cruise on a luxury 1920s motor yacht departing nightly from Pointe aux Canonniers for fine dining on the ocean wave, or enjoy a taste of the high life by skipping off and over the water on an exclusive seaplane tour.

For a chance to swim with dolphins in the open sea rather than the shallows, consider a speedboat excursion to Benitiers Island that also includes alfresco lunch on the beach. Or go for an underwater sea walk! It’s ideal for non-divers. You’re whisked by speedboat from Grand Baie to a northern lagoon for a four-meter descent into a world of dazzling coral and curious tropical fish. Breathing and every other necessity is taken care of. You don’t even have to remove your glasses, though no one really needs to trouble Specsavers to see that Mark Twain chap was probably right about Mauritius and paradise.


Eureka Colonial House

Saint Aubin estate in Mauritius, the last

stop of the famous tea route

Giant Turle,Domaine du Chasseur

Jewelry as Memento


The jewelry of Monica Rich Kosann is about storytelling – each piece helps a woman to tell her own personal story, one that is unique to her. “Like photographs, lockets capture your personal moments, ideas and inspirations, so that each woman who wears one becomes her own storyteller. “They reflect the daily adventures that you value the most and the people that inspire you along the way,” says Monica, who is also a success-ful portrait photographer and home accessory designer.”

The designer’s ultimate goal is to integrate her clients’ most cherished memories and possessions into their daily lives and to help them tell their unique personal stories in an original and customized way, and to create something of lasting value. “We’ve taken a classic idea and made it contem-

porary and modern,” she says. “Fashions may change, but our lockets are designed to never go out of style. They provide an elegant and sexy way for a woman to reveal her secrets when and where she chooses.”

Years ago, Monica began scouring antique shows and flea markets in search of vintage lockets, cigarette cases and powder compacts that could be adapted to hold family photographs. As demand for these unique pieces grew, she developed her collection of jewelry and home accessories. “My one driving question when I design a piece of jewelry is ‘Can a woman give this piece to her daughter in 20 years?’”

Today, Monica’s brand-name jewelry, image cases and frames are sold in 100 exclusive fine jewelers across the coun-try. She is a member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion De-signers of America). Her book Living With What You Love was published by the Clarkson Potter division of Random House.

b y C A R O L B E S L E Rdesigner spotlight

Monica Rich Kosann’s unique lockets help create personal heirlooms

A

B

C

A) Rectangular Gate Locket Necklace in sterling silver

B) Petite Stone Lockets in 18k yellow gold featuring double sided blue topaz, rose quartz, or rock crystal

C) Sterling silver lockets, from left to right: Petite Sunburst Locket, Oval Star-Set Locket, Oval Sunburst Locket


Jack Kelége Dedicated to the perfection of every facet of his craft, Jack Kelége is an artist, mas-

ter craftsman and, most importantly, an uncompromising perfectionist.

Established in 1972 and headquartered in Los Angeles, California, Jack Kelége

employs some of the finest bench jewelers to be found anywhere, all of which he

hand-picked and mentored for an average of 20 years.

It is unique that he is both the designer and manufacturer of his own collections.

Jack’s attention to each individual piece is what makes his jewelry heirlooms-in-the-

making. Every piece of jewelry is tailored to fit its respective diamonds and gemstones

precisely. Kelége and his staff frequently work for months on a single design or piece

of jewelry to ensure that their clients receive nothing short of perfection.

“Design is always subjective,” says Jack. “You may like a style or not. However,

quality is objective. Above all, I want people to look at any of my pieces and recognize

their superior craftsmanship and quality.”

It is this obsession with quality and detail that has catapulted Jack Kelége to the

very pinnacle of his craft.

Platinum and diamond ring by Jack Kelege.

Diamond, sapphire, and ruby bands in 18k platinum by Jack Kelege.

Jack Kelege 18k white gold and diamond semi-mount.

designer spotlight

R Rings to symbolize betrothal and

marriage have been around almost as long

as the concept of marriage itself. The next

time some curmudgeon tells you it’s just

an invention of some ad agency (more on

that later), tell him it’s just not so.

The tradition of a diamond engagement ring dates back to 1477, when Archduke Max-

imilian of Austria presented one to Mary of Burgundy upon their betrothal. But that’s just

the first diamond engagement ring. There is ample evidence of betrothal and marriage rings

used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Indeed, the Romans were the ones who

introduced gold for betrothal rings.

A Roman bride-to-be was presented with two engagement rings: a gold ring to wear in

public, and an iron one to wear around the house while doing chores. Common practice for

several centuries, this is one idea whose time has come back. Iron, not so much, but having

a diamond wedding band for dressy occasions, a plain gold or platinum band for everyday,

and a tough tungsten or titanium band for sports or active use is as relevant today as it was

more than 2,000 years ago.

In 860 AD, Pope Nicholas I wrote a letter describing some

differences between the Roman Catholic and Eastern Or-

thodox traditions: one of those was that in the West-

ern church, a man presents his betrothed with an

engagement ring.

During the Renaissance, two major events

shaped the evolution of modern bridal

rings: one, the diamond ring given to Mary

of Burgundy sparked a trend among the

elite social classes to give a diamond ring

for engagement, and two, the Protestant

Reformation that eschewed religious

grandeur also drove the wedding ring to

replace the betrothal ring as the primary

symbol of marriage.

b y H E D D A S C H U P A K

the engagement ring

wedding planner


18k rose and white gold semi-mount with cushion shaped halo by Precision Set.

Lazare Kaplan Carmen aria.

Lazare Kaplan pave twist.

I In early North America, the Puritans, Quakers, and other religious

groups who shunned ornamentation or jewelry gave a thimble in lieu of

a wedding ring, although historians believe some women cut the tops off

their thimbles to wear as rings. (As an aside, the Protestant Reformation

also launched the Swiss watch industry. With the rise of Calvinism and

its doctrine of simplicity, jewelers who saw their livelihood slipping away

turned to horology. Watches and clocks, like thimbles, were deemed ac-

ceptable because of their usefulness, unlike jewelry, which was consid-

ered purely ornamental.)

During the Victorian era, a huge diamond discovery in South Africa in

1867 made diamond jewelry accessible to more people. Queen Victoria’s

marriage to Albert was a true love match, rare in an era when royal mar-

riages were usually made for political or economic, not romantic, reasons.

While diamond engagement rings were still largely considered the domain

of the nobility, their reach was extending down to the more affluent of

the masses. In honor of the love between Victoria and Albert, popular

design trends were romantic motifs like hearts, bows, or even snakes, seen

as a symbol of eternity.

It was during this era that the famed “Tiffany Setting,” a solitary dia-

mond held in place by six prongs, was introduced, although it would not

become the norm for some time yet.

The Industrial Revolution next

ushered in greater prosperity and a

growing middle class, putting

fine jewelry within reach of

even more people. By the

Edwardian era of the early

1900s, engagement

rings had become

a widely accepted

custom. Edwardian

design featured

diamonds in lacy,

ornate platinum

set t ings . The

geometric styles

of the Art Deco

era that followed,

meanwhile, reflected

a love of all things

stark and modern.

Not surprisingly,

the popularity of dia-

mond engagement rings

declined during the Great

Depression, but after World

War II, Americans were poised

for consumption after more than 15

years of hardship. Returning GIs flocked to newly built suburbs, filled

their new houses with shiny new appliances and their garages with shiny

new automobiles.

It was during this time that De Beers, through its marketing agency

N.W. Ayer, created the greatest marketing slogan of all time: “A Dia-

mond Is Forever.” It didn’t invent the diamond engagement ring, but it

would cement the idea that a diamond ring was essential to being truly

and properly engaged.

The presence of a diamond in an engagement

ring rocketed from 10% just before WWII to

more than 80% at the end of the 20th century.

wedding planner


Platinum and diamond semi-mount by Jack Kelege with a cluster style halo.

Radiant cut semi-mount from Precision Set’s “Extraordinary” collection.

Jack Kelege platinum and diamond wide band.

MModern Designs In the latter half of the 20th century, the Tiffany-style solitaire setting

became the standard for American engagement rings, and has remained

so until recently. It is still hugely popular, but more and more women

are entranced with vintage-style milgrain work, halo settings, cushion

cut diamonds, and micro-pavé (oddly enough, this vintage-inspired

trend was made possible only with the very modern development of

CAD-CAM technology).

The round brilliant still remains the number-

one diamond shape, but more and more brides

are choosing cushion, Asscher, oval, princess,

radiant, and other special cuts.


ringing in the trends

wedding planner


Today the engagement ring that most couples want to buy is

the one that best reflects their personal, unique style. Personal-

ization and customization are common — indeed, almost stan-

dard. Some couples still abide by the more traditional method

of having the groom select a ring and present it to the bride,

but more often, the couple chooses it together.

Precision Set double halo ring.

2.89ct Natural fancy intense radiant cut yellow diamond set in a platinum and diamond ring by Jack Kelege.

Trio of solitaire rings by Michael Bondanza.

Wb y H E D D A S C H U P A Kwedding planner


Wedding band trends For many couples, the rush of excitement about getting engaged quickly morphs

into the hectic details of planning a wedding. So much so that the most lasting sym-

bol of the marriage — the wedding band — is left as an afterthought. But wedding

bands, too, have their design trends. There is always the classic plain gold or platinum

band, but more and more couples view the wedding ring as a style statement as well

as an outward sign of their commitment, especially women who don’t wear their

engagement rings.

Amanda Gizzi points to split-shank bands as a popular trend. This is a style that

allows the engagement ring to fit in the middle, but it can be worn alone, which

looks like an open, airy design. Severine Ferrari says the leading trends for wedding

rings are intricate designs for the woman’s band, and black diamonds and texture for

the men’s band. Alternative metals such as tungsten and titanium are also popular for

men’s bands, because of their modern high-tech appeal and their relative indestructibil-

ity. But again, remember those Romans: no reason a guy can’t also have

two wedding bands: his gold or platinum ring for the ceremony

and to wear for dress, and the second contemporary metal

band to wear for sports.

And, of course, multiple bands give women fashion

options. “Stacking bands let women achieve a balanced

aesthetic. One band on top of the engagement ring bal-

ances the ring on the bottom,” says Gizzi. “Some women

continue to stack on bands after the ‘I do.’”

don’t forget the band

Petit twist band

Yellow and rose gold bands with black diamond accents by Bez Ambar.Christian Bauer wedding bands

in platinum, gold, or palladium.

Black diamond crusted white gold band by Bez Ambar.

Wedding bands by Steven Kretchmer Designs in palladium with diamonds.

7 square silk fit band.

Kelege swirl band.

H A N D C R A F T E D 1 8 K A N D P L A T I N U M

W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T . C O M

M A D E I N A M E R I C A

H A N D C R A F T E D 1 8 K A N D P L A T I N U M

W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T . C O M

M A D E I N A M E R I C A

Twedding planner


Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or

wedding ring. There’s a wedding gown that needs the right

accessories, and what better choice than something the

bride (and her attendants) can really wear again?

Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda Gizzi, director of the

Jewelry Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on

the bodice of the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest

diamond or pearl as classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquama-

rine or blue topaz continue to be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.”

Hair jewels such as brooches or hairpins are also of the moment. Fash-

ion-forward brides are also drawn to hand ornaments such as brace-

let rings (a ring and bracelet connected by a chain), says Gizzi.

Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom

to give his bride, or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for

her, the bride’s parents to give their daughter. Long after

the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on

the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and

over and always remember that special day.

Lace earrings by Penny Preville. $4995

Kwiat diamond chain and double tear drop diamond necklace.

more than just the ring


Opal and diamond pendant by Penny Preville. $4575

Opal earrings by Penny Preville. 4325

Kwiat diamond earrings are a perfect gift for the mother of the bride or groom.

T

T Is shopping for a wedding dress stressing you out?

Then you may be doing it all wrong. Pick up helpful

shopping cues and style advice from the go-to designer

of the Duchess of Cambridge.

Jenny Packham’s Dress Shopping Tips In an engaging feature at InStyle.com, Jenny Packham, a British designer who

recently celebrated 25 years of creating bridal gowns and ready-to-wear clothes,

shares tips for brides looking for the perfect wedding dress.

Packham suggests not worrying too much about your wedding dress. After all, the

whole wedding planning part alone is already an overwhelming ordeal. The part where

you choose your wedding dress should be a fun, laid-back activity to be ticked off from

your wedding itinerary.

Just be natural, she advises. According to Packham, it is never a good idea to turn

yourself into somebody else. If you are not comfortable wearing a sultry head-to-

toe beading-and-lace dress, for example, then go for a wedding dress with a simple

and clean design. Packham also says that these days, she has been designing many

1920s-style slim-line-silhouette wedding dresses. This is a calculated move away

from the popular big dresses with a strapless bodice. She suggests considering a

slim-line dress.

She appeals for brides to avoid worrying whether their dress will look

dated in a few years. Packham recommends that brides should “live in the

moment,” because their wedding dresses — whether they like it or not —

will eventually become dated. So, if one of your worries is whether your

dress will look dated in a few years, then you may be missing out on a

rare opportunity to find something that suits you and your personality

to a tee. It is a good idea to simply choose a gorgeous dress that

reflects your current personal style and just enjoy your special day.

b y K . O N Gwedding planner

thedress


MAGAINE - Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers · Coin, Bez Ambar, Aaron Basha, Jack Kelege, Penny Preville...

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