MADAGASCAR Land of the Lemur 5 – 21 September 2017

TOUR REPORT Leader: Barrie Cooper Summary Madagascar has stunning wildlife with much of it endemic to the island. This tour has some great wildlife and much of it was seen very well. Birds included several species of vangas and ground rollers. Some wonderful lemur experiences included the indri, but perhaps a pair of diademed sifakas indulging in a lengthy session of foreplay just a few metres in front of us was a particularly privileged moment. Over 30 humpback whales close offshore was a bonus sighting for one magic hour. Invertebrates included giraffe-necked weevil and Darwin’s spider which has the longest web of any arachnid.

Ring-tailed lemur at Berenty © Barrie Cooper

Day 1: Tuesday 5 September 2017 The group assembled at Heathrow Airport in good time and we arrived in Nairobi on schedule on Day 2. Day 2: Wednesday 6 September 2017 Unfortunately, due to a technical fault, the flight from Nairobi to Tana was delayed and we were provided with a hotel to rest up. The journey between hotel and airport and the hotel grounds provided the opportunity to see some common East African species of birds. The list below was recorded by members of the group. • Sacred ibis • Hadada ibis • Marabou stork • Yellow-billed kite • Little swift • African palm swift • African pied wagtail • Rock martin • Red-winged starling • Superb starling • Pied crow • House sparrow • Egyptian goose • Western cattle egret • Long-tailed fiscal • Bronze manikin • Collared sunbird Day 3: Thursday 7 September 2017 Sunny morning, cloud and a little rain during the afternoon. approximately 81 degrees maximum • Tana • Fort Dauphin to Berenty • Berenty nature reserve We arrived in Madagascar and checked into our hotel near Tana Airport at 4am. Madagascar nightjar was calling in the hotel grounds, a good first endemic for the trip. Madagascar fody and African stonechat were in the grounds before we returned to the airport for our flight to Fort Dauphin. As usual, there were a few Mascarene martins flying around as we walked from the terminal building to the plane. The Air Madagascar flight arrived on time and after collecting our luggage it was time to make the long journey to Berenty. The poor condition of the road means that vehicles have to drive slowly and this brings benefits for looking for wildlife. Warty chameleon was our first of that Madagascar speciality. Some of the birds seen included: Madagascar bee-eater, Madagascar kestrel, crested drongo, magpie robin, great egret, striated heron and hammerkop. We eventually arrived at Berenty at dusk and were entertained by the various sounds of some of its nocturnal creatures. Day 4: Friday 8 September 2017 Sunny • Berenty private nature reserve Our first full day at Berenty was a real “welcome to Madagascar” with a whole variety of endemics to enable us to experience some of the magic of this amazing island. It was surprisingly cool in the early morning and a slow walk through the shade of the gallery forest wasn’t the ideal way to warm up, but it did enable us to see some good wildlife. Our first lemur was a roosting white-footed sportive which posed quite commendably in the early morning light. Red-fronted brown lemur was much more common but equally obliging at times. Endemic birds included Frances’s sparrowhawk, lesser vasa parrot, Sakalava weaver, coucal, grey-headed lovebird, paradise flycatcher, munia and crested coua. Two roosting barn

owls posed at the top of a shady tree. Roosting flying foxes were another mammal before we had the first of several views of one of the stars of Berenty – Verreaux’s sifaka. The first group of these exotic dancers were happy to just pose in the trees rather than perform their floorshow. Breakfast was very welcome after our early start as were our dining guests – the local group of ring-tailed lemurs. These demur creatures with their innocent looks and seductive eyes are not necessarily all they appear to be. The local gang of hoodlums are happy to mug you and whip a banana off your plate from under your nose and that’s exactly one of them did. When people leave their tables and food behind, the lemurs do their impressions of vultures or kites and whip in to clean up any bread, fruit, juice that’s unattended. However, when these muggers look back at you with those mascara eyes it’s difficult to avoid a smile. The post-breakfast walk brought more great views of Verreaux’s sifakas. A giant coua was very obliging and called away as we watched. Two roosting white-browed owls are eventually found and more common jerys were seen. There were plenty of butterflies including one of the swallowtails, red clearwing, a small blue species and possible Arican monarch. Some interesting spiders kept Matt happy but an ant lion probably took the prize for the best invertebrate of the morning. Warty chameleon, day gecko, radiated tortoise and Madagascara big-headed terrapin added to the reptile list. The afternoon walk in the spiny forest was very productive. One of the highlights was a roosting Torotoroka scops owl which enabled stunning views. The views of a roosting Madagascar nightjar weren’t quite as good, but nevertheless it was a credit to the local guide that it was found. A grey-brown mouse lemur wasn’t quite as obliging. Running coua and hissing cockroach were a couple of other highlights seen in this interesting habitat. A walk in a different part of the spiny forest in the dark brought further white-footed sportive lemurs and grey-brown mouse lemur. The combination of no light pollution with the southern night sky is perfect for a bit of star-gazing. A quick scan of the heavens brought us Jupiter, Saturn, the Southern Cross, Alpha Centauri, the Small Magellanic Cloud, various nebulae and a Milky Way that is even more stunning than as seen in the Northern hemisphere. A perfect end to a wonderful first full day in Madagascar. Day 5: Saturday 9 September 2017 Sunny. • Berenty private nature reserve • Berenty to Fort Dauphin A pre-breakfast outing looking for sandgrouse was unsuccessful, however we did see Madagascar lark, Madagascar hoopoe, Madagascar cisticola, helmeted guineafowl, great egret and a troop of over twenty ring-tailed lemurs. After breakfast we had a walk around the gallery forest where the highlight was a cuckoo hawk that was obligingly perched in a tree and calling. We were privileged to watch this elusive bird for several minutes. Other highlights were a pair of giant coua, Madagascar coucal and several Verreaux's sifaka, some of which performed their dancing moves. After an early lunch it was time for the return journey to Ford Dauphin. There were a few good observations along the way including our first Madagascar buzzard. Perhaps pride of place must go to the three cuckoo rollers that were first seen in flight, two of which perched in a tree enabling better views. A jewelled chameleon was well photographed before we found another Madagascar speciality – flatid leaf bugs. The white stage of this bizarre creature is a joy to behold, a quite remarkable invertebrate. Day 6: Sunday 10 September 2017 Sunny. • Fort Dauphin • Tulear to Ifaty We enjoyed a relaxed morning and later start, before taking a taxi after breakfast to a local headland and spent a magic hour whale watching. Over 30 humpback whales were out in the bay, with sometimes over five in the same binocular view. There were several females with calves and some appeared to have an adolescent in tow as well. We were treated to some wonderful breaching, tail flukes and fin slapping. It was a privilege to see such a magnificent species so close to the coast. It was particularly poignant to see a

species that has recovered so well from human exploitation, off to coast of an island where the indigenous wildlife is so seriously threatened. Perhaps an indication that if the human race does take positive action then nature can sometimes react in a very positive way. Let’s hope that the endangered wildlife of Madagascar can have the same fortune as humpbacks. In addition to the whales, a solitary wedge-tailed shearwater was seen coursing the waves, while there were a few Mascarene martens as we made our way back to the hotel. Flying from Fort Dauphin to Tulear, the Air Madagascar arrived more or less on time and on arrival in Tulear we then drove north to our hotel at Ifaty. A stop at a small wetland produced a few waders: Kittlitz’s plover, three-banded plover, curlew sandpiper, common greenshank and black-winged stilt. Day 7: Monday 11 September 2017 Sunny • Spiny forest near Ifaty • Salinas near Ifaty The spiny forest in Southwest Madagascar represents the entire global range of several species including some endangered birds. Even without the wildlife the sight of the spiny forest is a memorable experience, but it’s the baobab trees that really add to the unique atmosphere. Some of the baobab trees are over 500 years old and they make good photographic subjects. It’s an interesting area and the use of local guides makes it much easier and quicker to find some of the remarkable birds here. The first of this morning’s special birds was a long-tailed ground roller that perched in a spiny bush and called away while we watched. Moving through the forest we stumbled across a harrier hawk that was posing in the early morning sunlight. The next charismatic bird was the remarkable subdesert mesite. Amazingly there were three doing their best statue impersonations in three separate trees. An adult female posed out in the open rather than within a bush as they often do. Souimanga sunbird, Madagascar hoopoe and Chabert’s vanga soon followed. A crested coua flew across the path before an Archbold’s newtonia showed well. A stunning red-tailed vanga gave good views although a thamnornis and subdesert brush warbler were much more skulking. After breakfast we drove a short distance to some salinas where a Humblot’s heron and great egret became the first birds to be seen. Some waders were soon found with greenshank, whimbrel and a dimorphic egret walking around the shallow water of a salina. A bund provided a roosting site for white-fronted and Kittlitz’s plovers, turnstone and curlew sandpiper. But our target bird was Madagascar plover and one was found to provide a perfect contrast to the other plovers that accompanied it. It is the wader to see in Madagascar and Ifaty usually delivers. A short drive away, a small wetland had a few three-banded and Kittlitz’s plovers. After an excellent lunch overlooking the sea, Matt and Nicola ventured back to the spiny forest, and Rory opted for the more relaxing pursuit of sailing. Common newtonias were in the bushes immediately where we parked and it wasn’t long before we had our first target bird – the appropriately named sickle-billed vanga. Cuckoo hawk and harrier hawk were both seen in flight and a roosting Madagascar nighthawk allowed for some good photographic opportunities. A pair of white-headed vangas showed well and they or another pair were seen later. Prize for cutest animal of the trip so far went to a roosting white-shouldered sportive lemur – the eyes get you every time. A Madagascar spinetail flew over as we approached the bus. Day 8: Tuesday 12 September 2017 Sunny • La Table spiny forest • Zombitse National Park • Isalo An early start to check out and drive to the other side of Tulear to explore the spiny forest of La Table. Before we reached Tulear the birds had included coucal and a few greater flamingos in a roadside pool. The first bird of note at La Table was a pair of red-shouldered vamgas and this is a speciality of this area. They sounded and behaved in a way reminiscent of a sylvia warbler, however in terms of appearance

maybe more like a warbler on steroids. A subdesert brush warbler showed for a couple of minutes and, just prior to leaving, a Verreaux’s coua was seen at the top of a tree. We said our goodbyes to the local guide and then began our journey across Madagascar to Isalo, exploring some of the forest at Zombitse. Giant couas and common newtonias were at the entrance but it was the Zombitse sportive lemur resting in a tree hole that was one of our main targets. Restricted to this forest, this sportive lemur is one of the main reasons for visiting here. Another main reason is that this is one of only two forests where Appert’s tetraka is known to breed. Thankfully, despite the limited time we had there, we had good views of at least four of these warbler-type birds that favour the woodland floor and understory. As we started making our way back a cuckoo roller flew over and then an obliging Coquerel’s coua strutted along the forest floor, looking like a smaller version of the giant coua. A solitary Verreaux’s sifaka watched us from a lofty position in a tree while we admired the virtues of a large male Oustalet’s chameleon. It was time to move on and arrive at our hotel in Isalo for a late lunch. During the late afternoon, we drove the short distance to view the sunset at a popular tourist location. An eleven cm long praying mantis on one of the buildings was of interest before we went for dinner. Day 9: Wednesday 13 September 2017 Sunny. • Isalo National Park An exploration of the interesting landscape and geology of Isalo was on the menu for the morning. The rock formations combined with the botanic delights make this a special place. The elephant’s foot plant makes a good photographic subject as does some of the viewpoints. A couple of 13 centimetre long stick insects, a praying mantis and some flatid leafbugs were seen as we walked to the highest viewpoint. It was interesting to find some sundew plants in a damp area next to the path. This area is also a sacred burial site for the local tribe and it was interesting to see their tombs nestled into ledges on the cliffs. Some Madagascar white-eyes were in the car park when we returned. We then moved onto another area and walked to a stream. There were a few species of butterflies and dragonflies but no sign of one of our targets. Matt found the spider he had been hoping for a Darwin’s spider. This fine beast apparently has the longest web of any spider with one of twenty-five metres across a river. The specimen we had didn’t have the space to make such a long one, but it was positioned well enough to photograph. The minutes we spent watching and photographing Darwin’s bark spider were valuable in another way because during this time a male forest rock thrush appeared. This bird was previously known as Benson’s rock thrush, however genetic studies have revealed that it is not another species. Nevertheless, it is a Madagascar endemic and this stunning male provided superb views as it hunted for invertebrates as it hunted on the bank above the stream. A Madagascar wagtail appeared while we were there, surprisingly the first of the trip. A few Madagascar black swifts flew over the grassland as we made our way back to the hotel for lunch. A few interesting invertebrates including a fifteen mm praying mantis were the highlights of the afternoon. Day 10: Thursday 14 September 2017 Sunny • Isalo to Ranofamana Today was the lengthy travel day to Ranofamana. We made a few scheduled stops for scenic photo opportunities, one of which brought us a small flock of Alpine swifts flying around in their usual inimitable style. A stop at a paper making place and a silk place broke up the journey. Stopping at the waterfall near Ranofamana gave us good views of an orchid, a leaf-litter tree frog and a few invertebrates. Day 11: Friday 15 September 2017 Sunny • Ranofamana National Park It was a long morning walking the trails of Ranofamana National Park. The park has a range of endemic birds plus golden bamboo lemur, which was a major reason why this superb forest was given national park status. A Rand’s warbler sang at the top of a tree near the park entrance. Soon after entering the park a

female Pollen’s vanga and a nelicourvi weaver was building a nest. A female common sunbird asity was much more obliging than a male, as were two female velvet asity. The grunts of a small group of red-fronted lemurs gave away their presence high in the trees. The shade of tall trees combined with understory of the forest provides perfect cover for pitta-like and scaly ground rollers and both species were found in the same area, eventually giving reasonable views. This area also gave us a ring-tailed mongoose running along the forest floor. A few spectacled tetrakas buzzed around but only provided very brief naked-eye views. A rufous vanga and Tylas vanga were much more obliging than the tetraka and added to the list of this amazing family of birds. One of the most elusive birds of Ranofamana is probably brown mesite but our local guides did a sterling job to ensure we got reasonable views of this skulker. Two golden bamboo lemurs resting in an embrace high up in a tall tree didn’t provide the greatest of views, nevertheless it was a privilege to see an animal that was once considered extinct. A Madagascar brush warbler skulked through before we finally saw a giraffe-necked weevil on the bridge over the river. When we arrived in the car park a cuckoo roller was obligingly perched in a tree enabling excellent views. The afternoon session was in a different area of the park and the walking was less strenuous. A cryptic warbler was the first bird of note, looking remarkably similar to some of the warblers we have in Europe. A quiet, mournful call gave away the presence of a female Milne-Edwards sifaka. She was close to the path and we watched her for a few minutes before she bounded off into the forest, perhaps in search of the rest of her group. An elusive rufous-headed ground roller refused to appear and another one was then heard. The latter gave brief views before returning into a deeper part of the forest. A pitta-like ground roller also put in a brief appearance. Rory gave up on the ground-rollers and was rewarded with a female Milne-Edwards sifaka that had a young one. Day 12: Saturday 16 September 2017 Cloud at first then sunny. • Ranofamana to Antsirabe Another travel day broken up by a lunch stop and visits to craft centres and shops. A few birds were seen from the vehicle and occasional stop, with the highlight being a flock red-billed teal flying over a place where a male African stonechat was showing well. Day 13 Sunday 17 September 2017 Sunny. Cloudy with light drizzle in the evening. • Antsirabe to Andasibe • Analmazaotrana National Park We made an early start from Antsirabe for our final long journey. Roadside wetlands, including our regular stop on the Tana ringroad gave us a good selection of herons – great egret, dimorphic egret, cattle egret, squacco heron and striated heron. But perhaps, the prize one was the black heron, of which a few individuals were doing their umbrella impersonation when using their wings as an aid to finding their food. Plain martin and commons sandpiper were other notable species. We arrived at our hotel in Andasibe soon after lunch and the sounds of indri in the neighbouring Analmazaotrana National Park were soon heard. It’s always wonderful to hear this sound of Madagascar and from the hotel room is an added bonus. Our rooms were clearly in an ideal location because, less than an hour after we first heard indri, Nicola spotted a diademed sifaka showing well in a tree opposite our bungalows and on the edge of the national park. Another wonderful animal to see and so close to our accommodation is really quite something. Other delights during the afternoon were Madagascar kingfisher, Madagascar green pigeon and Madagascar blue pigeon that showed very well. Combine these with white-eye, wagtail, bulbul and magpie-robin and we had a good collection of endemics just around the gardens. However, pride of place must go to the nuthatch vanga that appeared in a tree next to the stream giving brief views but showing its nuthatch-type behaviour. Our first night walk here was very productive. Three chameleons seen were short-nosed, short-horned and Parson’s. A Goodman’s mouse lemur showed well, as did a couple of stick insects. A smart looking mossy-

tailed leaf gecko was a bonus and a green bright-eyed tree frog posed on a leaf. Matt was very happy to find a net casting spider complete with net poised for attack, but sadly we didn’t see it in action. Day 14: Monday 18 September 2017 Sunny intervals. • Analmazaotrana National Park Prior to leaving the hotel, a quick check revealed that the short-nosed chameleon was in the same bushes as the previous night, enabling daylight photos this time. We then drove the short distance to begin an interesting morning walking the trails of Analmazaotrana National Park. The piercing calls of indri were heard soon after we entered the park and it didn’t take too long before we had reasonable views of Madagascar’s largest surviving lemur species. A group of approximately ten brown lemurs passed through the same area while we were still watching the indri. Seeing indri is always a highlight of a trip to Madagascar, however their magic was superseded by a pair of diademed sifakas that were indulging in a lengthy spell of foreplay. Amazingly, the amorous couple didn’t seem to care about our voyeurism as they grappled with each other on a path just a few metres in front of us. We watched them for at least thirty minutes and were told they may have been indulging in this behaviour for a similar length of time before we arrived. It was an absolute privilege to watch this behaviour of one of the most attractive of all lemurs. After the lengthy foreplay, the lovers then sealed the deal a few times in a tree. Other members of the sifaka group were around and there were one or two young amongst them. As we walked out of this romantic part of the forest a smart orchid was seen next to the trail. After the lemur indulgence, any birds and other wildlife was a bit of an anti-climax, except for Matt who found an assassin spider and more Darwin’s spiders. Some good birds included Crossley’s vanga, Madagascar buzzard, spectacled tetraka and white-throated oxylabes. A mixed flock had a good number of birds including several nuthatch vangas. The flock also included red-tailed vanga, dark newtonia, Madagascan cuckooshrike and long-billed tetraka. A white-throated rail was also seen during the morning and a Humblot’s heron flew over the forest. After lunch a pair of cuckoo hawks displayed over the hotel. We returned to the park in the afternoon and were rewarded with views of some blue vangas near the visitor centre. Blue coua continued the colour theme. A mixed flock of birds had green sunbird and red-tailed vanga. The highlight of the afternoon was close views of Madagascan flufftail, a skulker we were very lucky to see. A productive night walk around a local nature reserve provided us with three species of lemurs. A total of three Goodman’s mouse lemurs were one of the highlights. Three Eastern woolly lemurs in the same tree were notable. A Crossley’s dwarf lemur was another interesting sighting. A nose-horned chameleon, a green bright-eyed frog and a newly emerged large hawkmoth added to the variety of wildlife seen. Day 15: Tuesday 19 September 2017 Cloudy morning, sunny intervals in the afternoon. Cooler. • Mantadia National Park A purple heron was on the pool next to the hotel restaurant and then a green pigeon showed well. Weothen did the four-wheel drive hour-long journey to Mantadia National Park. As soon as we get out of the vehicle we could hear the loud, raucous calls of black and white ruffed lemurs. With faces like collie dogs and calls that sometimes are reminiscent of aggressive chimps, this lemur is perhaps not as endearing as some of the other lemurs. Nevertheless, like all lemurs, it is interesting to observe them in their social group and as they move through the trees. There were at least six in this particular group. We saw a few groups of diademed sifaka and heard a variety of sounds from them. We were fortunate to find two red-bellied lemurs high up in the canopy but they didn’t hang around for long. Indri called on several occasions during the morning but we didn’t see any. It had been fairly quiet birdwise apart from two cuckoo rollers that were calling loudly above the forest. Prize bird for the morning was a red-fronted coua that eventually showed its beautiful face after a lengthy wait. On our way back to the car park, but before we left the forest, two scaly ground-rollers showed quite well and while we watched them, a stunning ring-tailed vontsira put in an appearance and eventually gave us very satisfying views; this species used to be known as ring-tailed mongoose. As we drove the long, rough road away from Mantadia we were treated to a good

selection of spectacular butterflies. One of the most attractive was a swallowtail species, with two mating and a third tried to invade the party. There was also a stunning red and white butterfly. As we were finishing lunch back at the hotel the sound of indri became quite loud. Making a swift departure from the restaurant, we managed to get distant views of three indri calling and feeding. An amazing sight to have from outside your bungalow. Whilst we watched the indri one of the hotel staff brought us two chameleons – a Parson’s and a blunt-nosed. A short afternoon walk on the road near the hotel and adjacent to the park produced a few praying mantids which are always good to see, as was a male green sunbird atop a tree. Eastern woolly lemur was seen from the hotel during an evening walk. Day 16: Wednesday 20 September 2017 Sunny intervals. • Voi Amama reserve • Andasibe to Tana • Parc Tsarasaotra We drove the short distance to Voi Amama reserve and found a nose-horned chameleon in the car park. Indri were calling and two were found high in the trees, giving restricted views. Our local guide managed to find a Madagascan ibis that was looking resplendent with its crest and showing to less than 20 metres. After watching it for about ten minutes we started to move away when a second one was noticed. Two Madagascan wood-rail showed quite well and were even seen preening. A stop at the bridge over the river Mangoro had a lorry that was in a bad way with at least two tyres missing and several flat. Birds seen include plain martin, common sandpiper, Chabert vanga and striated heron. After lunch we visited the bird filled Parc Tsarasaotra where at least six Meller’s duck jostled for position amongst the red-billed teal and white-faced whistling ducks. Madagascan grebe, Hottentot teal and several species of herons were also at this Ramsar site. Madagascar brush warbler and some good butterflies added further interest. It was then time to leave for our hotel in Tana before our late night flight. Day 17: Thursday 21 September 2017 • Tana to Heathrow Fortunately there were no delays on the return flights. Another excellent and interesting trip to this brilliant island for wildlife.

Grey-headed lovebirds © Barrie Cooper

Madagascar kestrel © Barrie Cooper

Subdesert mesite at Ifaty spiny forest © Barrie Cooper

White-headed vanga at Ifaty © Barrie Cooper

Brown mesite at Ranofamana © Barrie Cooper

Cuckoo roller at Ranofamana © Barrie Cooper

Milne-Edwards sifaka © Barrie Cooper

Nuthatch vanga © Barrie Cooper

Madagascan ibis © Barrie Cooper

Humblot’s heron © Barrie Cooper

Long-tailed ground roller © Barrie Cooper

Verreaux’s sifaka © Barrie Cooper

Black and white ruffed lemur © Barrie Cooper

Diademed sifaka © Barrie Cooper

Indri © Barrie Cooper

Parson’s chameleon © Barrie Cooper

Blunt-nosed chameleon © Barrie Cooper

Nose-horned chameleon © Barrie Cooper

Giraffe-necked weevil © Barrie Cooper

Darwin’s bark spider © Barrie Cooper