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Weekend trips

Małopolska 8 UNESCO sites

250 attractionson the Wooden Architecture Route

Wadowice – town of birthof Pope John Paul II

Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia

9 spa resorts

6 national parks

4 geothermal pools

Rafting down the Dunajec gorge

2600 km of bicycle trails

3360 km of mountain trails

250 ski runs

Małopolska

Wysowa-Zdrój

KRAKÓW

Wilno Mińsk

Kijów

Ryga

Tallin

Helsinki

Sztokholm

Oslo

Rejkiawik

Kopenhaga

Dublin

Londyn Amsterdam Bruksela

Paryż Luksemburg

Berno Vaduz

Lublana

Rzym

Monako Andora

Madryt Lizbona

San Marino

Zagrzeb

Belgrad

Sofia

Bukareszt

Kiszyniów

Skopje

Ateny

Tirana

Podgorica

Sarajewo

Priština

Berlin

Praga

BratysławaWiedeńBudapeszt

Warszawa D

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EPI

RO

UA

RKS

MD

HACH

FL

BIHSRB

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GR TR

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PL

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MałopolskaCapital of the region: KrakówMajor cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, OświęcimSurface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of Poland)Population: 3.28 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland)Landscape: the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl mountains – Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny, Gorce foothills – Carpathian Foothills uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa Upland lowlands – Vistula valley main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Raba, Skawa, Biała water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Dobczycki, Klimkówka the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the lakes of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes the largest and deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km of corridors, 824 m deep

Publisher Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska ProvinceRegional Tourism Information System Teamul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Krakówmsit@malopolska.mw.gov.plwww.visitmalopolska.pl

Text Krzysztof Bzowski

PhotosS. Gacek, T. Gębuś, J. Gorlach, K. Gzyl, P. Mierniczak, J. Podlecki, M. Zaręba, D. Zaród, UMWM photo archive

PublishingAmistad Sp. z o.o. – Program ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Krakówtel./faks: + 48 12 4229922biuro@polskaturystyczna.pl, www.polskaturystyczna.plProduction management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata CzopikProject coordination: Katarzyna ThorPublishing concept: Anna NiedźwieńskaEditor: Aurelia HołubowskaProofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc Cover design, graphic design: PART SAMaps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o. Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał TincelTranslation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser

Kraków 2010, ISBN 978-83-63091-13-2The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing. Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010.

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The peaks of the High Tatra Mountains lost in the clouds, the white rocks of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland with ruins of castles referred to as “eagles’ nests”, historic towns

with old, charming tenement houses, green forests and woods…All are waiting for everyone who plans to expand their sightsee-ing in Małopolska outside big cities. Once you have have seen Tarnów and Nowy Sącz, once you have explored Zakopane and spent a few days in Kraków, it is worth continuing your sightsee-ing further afield. Around each of these areas you will find numer-ous places that are worth visiting and tourist trails hidden among picturesque landscapes.

Owing to a rich topographical variety of Małopolska and a tur-bulent history, this region, like no other in Poland, can boast a huge number of historic monuments and marvellous landscapes. If you want to hike in the mountains, you should visit places around Za-kopane or Nowy Sącz. If historic places are what you are looking for, head for towns and villages surrounding Tarnów and Kraków.

In this guide you will find short descriptions of suggested routes starting in each of the main tourist centres in Małopolska. These routes are best for one day car trips, but many of them can be walked or cycled.

Planning the trip, photo by D. Zaród

MAŁOPOLSKAWeekend trips

Table of contentsChapter I. Weekend trip around... Kraków . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Chapter II. Weekend trip around... Tarnów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Chapter III. Weekend trip around... Nowy Sącz . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Chapter IV. Weekend trip around... Zakopane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

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Weekend around… Kraków In the vicinity of Kraków you can find both rocky limestone canyons, as well as boggy plains covered with wild forests. You can set out on a trip among the hills or spend some time in the kingdom of fishermen, that is in Dolina Karpia (Carp Valley). Such landscape diversity provides great op-portunities, and if you think of the built heritage that can also be found here, you will realise that Kraków’s neigh-bourhood is no less interesting than the city itself.

Kraków-Częstochowa Upland is a perfect area to en-joy active leisure, especially hiking and cycling. Here you can find Ojców National Park and a few landscape parks protecting the picturesque region of Jura Krakowsko-Częstochowska (Jurassic Highland). It is also a great area for rock climbing and horse riding, e.g. along the Jurassic Horse Riding Trail.

The most interesting historic heritage sites in the neigh-bourhood of Kraków are inscribed on the UNESCO list. These include: a salt mine in Wieliczka, found-ed in the 13th century, a marvellous group of Calvary paths in Kalwaria Zebrzydows-ka, and an appalling memorial of the World War II, the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp. The surroundings of Kraków offer much more attractions, so you can be sure that a trip in any direc-tion will not be a waste of time.

The subterranean salt kingdom in WieliczkaAt the distance of 12 km south of Kraków lies the town of Wieliczka, where you will find a salt mine, founded in the 13th century, and now inscribed on the UNESCO list. The un-derground tourist route that leads through a network of cor-ridors, huge chambers, and even chapels carved in salt (such as the spectacular Chapel of St. Kinga with salt bas-reliefs and altars) is the main attraction of the salt mine apart from the underground Muzeum Żup Krakowskich (Kraków Salt-works Museum). It houses a collection of exhibits devoted to the history and technology of salt mining. “On the sur-face” it is worth visiting the nearby Saltworks Castle (zamek żupny) with the second part of the exhibition of the above mentioned museum, which among other things, features a collection of 400 salt shakers. You can also take a walk to the nearby sloping main market square.

From Wieliczka you can head 16 km south for the town of Dobczyce, passing a  small Romanesque church in

Dziekanowice. On a rocky hill in Dob-czyce, by the Dobczyckie lake, the ru-ins of a royal castle have remained to this day. A few old wooden buildings that have been moved here make up a small heritage park in front of the castle gate. Nearby, you can also find a  Baroque church built from the stones acquired after the demolition of castle’s walls.

Wawel Hill, photo by M. Zaręba Pieskowa Skała, photo by M. Zaręba

Wieliczka Salt Mine, UMWM photo archive Niepołomice, photo by J. Podlecki

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An alternative route takes you from Wieliczka to Niepołomice (12 km to the east), where it is worth visiting a Renaissance roy-al castle with an arcaded courtyard and an interesting muse-um. In the town centre there is a Gothic church founded by king Casimir the Great with two chapels: a Renaissance one of the Bra-nicki family, and a Baroque one of the Lubomirski family. Beyond Niepołomice stretches the Niepołomice Forest with many tour-ist trails. In the neighbourhood, one can also find the oldest female convent in Małopolska – the Benedictine convent in Staniątki.

Wieliczka Salt Mine, Tourist Route, ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wie-liczka, \ +48 12 2788302, / www.kopalnia.pl; › Apr–Oct, daily 7.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 8am–5pm; visits only with a guide: Polish language speaking guide,   PLN 50, conces-sions: PLN 37, foreign language speaking guide: PLN 65, con-cessions: PLN 51, photography and filming: PLN 10. Kraków Saltworks Museum, ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, \  +48 12 2783266, / www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl; ›  same as for the Tourist Route. Museum in Dobczyce Castle and Heritage Park, \ +48 12 2711455, / www.zamek.dobczy-ce.pl; › Apr and Oct, Tue–Sun 10am–4pm; May–Jun and Sept, Tue–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Jul–Aug, Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–8pm;   PLN 6, con-cessions: PLN 4. Museum of Modern Art in Niepołomice, in a castle, ul. Zamkowa 2, Niepołomice, \ +48 12 2619851, /  www.muzeum.niepolomice.pl; ›  daily, 10am–5pm;

 PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2.

A trip to Ojców and Pieskowa SkałaTo the north east of Kraków stretches the picturesque land of the Jurassic Highland, a limestone Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. It is an extensive plateau covered with rocky mon-adnocks that are cut through by rocky gorges and deep valleys. The longest and the most interesting one is Dolina Prądnika (Prądnik Valley). The protected area of Ojców Na-tional Park constitutes its most scenic and precious part.

Travelling from Kraków it is best to go to Ojców, situat-ed 25 km away. Here you can visit the ruins of a royal cas-tle and the wooden chapel on water constructed direct-ly above the waters of the Prądnik river. Numerous tourist routes lead from Ojców, along the Prądnik Valley, to the foot of many rocky walls and crags, e.g. to Brama Krakows-ka (Kraków Gate) at the end of Ciasne Skałki gorge, and farther to Grota Łokietka (King Łokietek Cave). In the vi-cinity, you can also follow an interesting educational trail up the Okopa mountain to Jaskinia Ciemna (Dark Cave) or visit the Sąspówka gorge, a favourite place of beavers.

In the northern part of the park you will find the famous monadnock called Maczuga Herkulesa (Mace of Hercules), and behind it, on a cliff above Prądnik, there is an impressive

Niepołomice Forest, a bison, UMWM photo archive

Castle in Pieskowa Skała and the Mace of Herkules, photo by D. Zaród

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castle in Pieskowa Skała housing an interesting museum of changes in art styles from medieval times to the 19th cen-tury, as well as a gallery of English paintings. The castle with its arcaded courtyard, elegant loggia from the outside and a reconstructed garden is one of the greatest examples of Renaissance architecture in Małopolska.

On your way from Ojców to Pieskowa Skała you can visit the hermitage of blessed Salome and a small Baroque church in Grodzisko village. There was a wooden town here in the early Middle Ages, and the 13th century saw the founding of a convent of poor Clares, whose superior was Salome herself.

Coming back from Ojców through Sąspów and Jerzmano-wice it is worth visiting the Wierzchowska Górna Cave, which has been adapted for tourists and is the most interest-ing cave on the Jurassic Highland. You may also go to Bębło to see an impressive Grodzisko rock (512 m asl) which is the highest peak in the Polish Jura in the vicinity of Kraków.

Ojców Castle, › middle Apr–May and Aug–Sept, 10am–4.45pm; Jun–Jul, 10am–5.45; Oct, 10am–3.45pm; first half of Nov, 10am–2.45pm;  PLN 2.50, concessions: PLN 1.50. Pieskowa Skała Castle Museum, \ +48 12  3896004, / www.pieskowaskala.eu; › May–Sept, Tue–Thu 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–1pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Apr and Oct, Tue–Thu, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm, Fri 10am–1pm; Nov–March, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm;  for both exhibitions: PLN 16, concessions: PLN 9. Wierzchowska Górna Cave, \ +48 12 4110721, / www.gacek.pl, › Apr and Sept-Oct, daily 9am–4pm; May–Aug, 9am–5pm; Nov, 9am–3pm; Jan–March, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm; visits only with a guide,  PLN 14, concessions: PLN 12.

A trip to Kraków Valleys Landscape ParkMany attractive landscapes can be found in the vicini-ty of Krzeszowice, a town 25 km west of Kraków. When you go in this direction, it is worth seeing at least one of a few gorges called Dolinki Krakowskie (Kraków Valleys). They are protected as part of Kraków Valleys Landscape Park. You can take a walk in the forested Kluczwody Val-ley with ruins of the knight’s castle and see an impres-sive rock gate at the end of the Bolechowicki Gorge. In the Kobylańska Valley you can admire numerous crags, walls and limestone ridges, and in the long Będkowska Valley, among other things, a wall of Sokolica peak and a real karst spring.

Nearby Krzeszowice, beech woods of the Eliaszówka Valley hide a precious Baroque monument: the 17th cen-tury monastery of the Carmelites in Czerna village. In neighbouring Paczółtowice there is a beautiful small wooden church from the beginning of the 16th century. There you can also find a large golf course Krakow Val-ley Golf. Instead of playing golf you can ski here in winter and enjoy horse riding or a shooting range all year long.

South of Krzeszowice, behind a strip of vast woods, there are magnificent ruins of Tęczyn Castle located on a dormant volcano. Other attractions of the Tenczyński Ridge include the rocky Mnikowski gorge and the Zimny Dół nature reserve.

Wierzchowska Górna cave, photo by M. Zaręba

The ‘glove’ rock, UMWM photo archive

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Oświęcim and its surroundingsFormerly a walled settlement by the Soła river, today Oświęcim is quite a large town known mainly for the Nazi German concen-tration camp that existed here during World War II. Today, this camp as a place of historic evidence and a memorial is inscribed on the UNESCO list as “Auschwitz-Birkenau. Nazi German Concen-tration Camp (1940–1945)”. It consists of two separate concentra-tion camps: the older and smaller concentration camp in Oświęcim (Auschwitz), and a large concentration camp in the neighbouring Brzezinka (Birkenau). Nazi German criminals killed around 1.5 mil-lion people here, most of whom were Jews.

In the centre of Oświęcim, it is worth vis-iting a castle and a renovated synagogue. There are also two Gothic churches and a  reconstructed market square. The town’s surroundings, especially the Vistu-la Valley towards the town of Zator, have been known for centuries for carp ponds and they are referred to as Dolina Karpia (Carp Valley). It is a perfect place for fish-ing or watching water- and marshbirds.

On the way from Kraków to Oświęcim it is worth stop-ping in Wygiełzów. A large heritage park with numerous wooden cottages, a church and a larch manor house is lo-cated here. Higher up, on a forested hill, you will see the ruins of the Lipowiec Castle.

Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau, ul. Wieźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, \+48 33 8448100, / www.auschwitz.org. pl; › daily; Jun-Aug, 8am–7pm; May and Jun, 8am–6pm; Apr and Oct, 8am–5pm; March and Nov, 8am–4pm; Dec–Feb,

8am–3pm;   visits in the period between May–Oct only with a guide: 18–38 PLN, in the period between Nov–Apr without a guide: ad-mission free. Dolina Karpia, Rynek 2, Zator, \+48 33 8410584, / www.dolinakarpia.org. Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park and Li-powiec Castle, ul. Podzamcze 1, Wygiełzów, \ +48 32 6134062, / www.mnpe.pl; › dai-ly, Apr–Sept, 8am–6pm; Oct–March, 8am–3pm;

 8–21 PLN.

Carp Valley, UMWM photo archive Castle in Oświęcim, photo by M. Zaręba

Lipowiec castle, photo by M. Zaręba Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba

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Calvary paths and the Pope’s townOnly 35 km from Kraków, over the hills and the green valleys of the Beskids towers a magnificent church and monastery of the Bernardines. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is one of the most im-portant centres of pilgrimage in Poland. A number of church-es, chapels and shrines were built here at the beginning of the 17th century in order to create the Calvary paths, conceived as a memorial of the Passion. Thanks to its beautiful landscape and highly original buildings, this oldest Polish Calvary complex has been inscribed on the UNESCO list. Kalwaria is also famous for its mystery plays, which are staged every year on Good Friday.

Among the nearby places of interest is Lanckorona, which has retained the charm of a small Galician town with its slop-ing, cobbled market square, and the reconstructed one-sto-rey wooden houses.

If you visit Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, which used to be frequent-ed by Karol Wojtyła as a place of prayer (also after he became Pope), it is worth making a trip to Wadowice, the birthplace of the Polish Pope, situated only 15 km to the west. The market square in Wadowice is dominated by the tower of the the Vir-gin Mary’s Offertory Minor Basilica, a late-Gothic church from the end of the 17th century, where Karol Wojtyła was baptised. Next to the small tenement house where the future Pope was born, there is a museum dedicated to his life. After the visit, you can have a rest in the nearby cafe and enjoy a Wadowice cream cake. From Wadowice it is worth going for a hike in the Low Be-skids, to the Leskowiec peak and the neighbouring Groń Jana Pawła II (the Mountain of John Paul II).

Family Home of John Paul II, ul. Kościelna 7, Wadowice, \ +48 33 8232662, / www.domrodzinnyjanapawla.pl; › May–Sept, Tue–Sun 9am–1pm and 2am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Tue–Sun 9am–noon and 1pm–4pm;  voluntary donations.

Weekend around... Tarnów

Day trips from Tarnów offer many marvellous buildings and monuments. In the Petrified City you can find original sandstone monadnocks, formed in various shapes as a re-sult of erosion. Not far from Tarnów, along the Dunajec val-ley, you can find picturesquely situated mountain lakes – Czchowskie and Rożnowskie (described in the section on weekend trips from Nowy Sącz). There are several spots along the bank which have been adapted for swimmers. You can also hire water sports equipment.

As for the original historic buildings around Tarnów, one has to mention the late-Gothic church in Dębno, as well as the magnificent aristocratic residence in Nowy Wiśnicz, which was built at the turn of the 17th century. Bochnia boasts the oldest Polish salt mine (even older than the one in Wieliczka), whereas in Lipnica Murowana you can visit a UNESCO-listed wooden church. Of tourist interest is also Zalipie, with its living folk tradition and flower-patterned houses and furniture.

Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, UMWM photo archive

Town hall in Tarnów, photo by K. Gzyl

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A taste of the Bochnia saltThe oldest operating salt mine in Poland is located in Boch-nia. Here, like in Wieliczka, salt has been extracted since the 18th century. However, the salt mine in Bochnia was estab-lished a few dozen years earlier. A visit to this salt kingdom is a little bit shorter than to Wieliczka and includes, among other things, a visit to the chapel, the underground cham-bers and a display of old mining machines. The mine also offers an underground slide and a ride on a colliery train.

From Bochnia, situated 45 km west of Tarnów, you can go to Nowy Wiśnicz, which is only 5 km to the south. Here, by the market square, you can find a few elegant tenement hous-es and a beautiful church from the early Baroque. The town is located in the shadow of a hill with a marvellous Renaissance castle of the Kmita family from the 15th and 16th century, which was reconstructed in the following century by the Lubomir-ski family into a huge bastion fortress. At the foot of the cas-tle there is an interesting and intimate wooden Koryznówka Manor House, which houses the Museum of Jan Matejko.

Almost 10 km south of Wiśnicz, in the valley of the Uszwica river, there is a village of Lipnica Murowana. It is famous not only for the Easter Palm contest organised during the Palm Sunday, but also for the UNESCO-listed wooden church of St. Leonard.

On the way back to Tarnów, you should definitely visit Dębno and see the beautiful little castle of the Dębiński family, built of brick and stone at the end of the 15th centu-ry, which presently houses an interesting museum.

Bochnia Salt Mine, ul. Solna 2, \ +48 14 6153636, / www.ko-palniasoli.pl; visits only with a guide; › Mon–Fri 9.30am, 11.30am and 3.30pm, Sat and Sun every hour from 10.15am to 4.15pm;

 Jan–March and Sept PLN 24, concessions: PLN 19; Apr–Dec PLN 30, concessions: PLN 22; family ticket: PLN 77; Photography: PLN 5. Nowy Wiśnicz Castle, ul. Zamkowa 13, \ +48 14 6128589, / www.zamekwisnicz.pl, › Apr–Oct, Mon–Thu 9am–4pm, Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sunday and holidays 10am–6pm; Nov–March, daily 9am–4pm;  PLN 8, concessions: PLN 5. Ko-ryznówka Manor House – Museum of Jan Matejko, part of the Regional Museum in Tarnów, Stary Wiśnicz 148, \ +48 14 6128347; › Tue–Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 11am–3pm;  PLN 5, con-cessions: PLN 3; photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 10. Museum of Antique Interiors – Dębno Castle, part of the Regional Museum in Tarnów; Dębno 189, \ +48 14 6658035, / www.zamekdeb-no.pl; › Nov–Apr, Tue and Thu 10am–4pm, Wed and Fri 9am–3pm, Sat and Sun 11am–2pm; Jul–Aug, open until 6pm;  PLN 8, concessions: PLN 4.

Bochnia salt mine, photo by M. Zaręba

Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by M. Zaręba

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A trip to the Petrified CityOnly 18 km south of Tarnów lies the town of Tuchów, where you can find a Redemptorist monastery with a shrine of the Virgin Mary. 11 km further down the Biała river valley, you will see the village of Gromnik with its beautiful wooden church from 1727. The road along the river then leads to Ciężkowice. In this town, near the neo-Gothic church there is a market square surround-ed by historic buildings from the 18th and 19th century, includ-ing arcaded wooden houses.

Near Ciężkowice extends the reserve of the Petrified City, where you can see rocks in fanciful shapes reflected by their names, such as: the Witch, the Badger, the Pyramids and the Town Hall.

On the other side of the Biała river valley, hidden in a quiet park in Kąśna Dolna, you can find the manor house of Igna-cy Paderewski, which currently houses a museum dedicated to the life of the famous pianist.

Painted CottagesTravelling up north from Tarnów, along Dunajec, through Żabno, you will reach Zalipie, located 34 km from Tarnów. This village is famous for the original tradition of decorat-ing houses, farm buildings and even wells and kennels with colourful flower patterns on a white background. The cot-tages are also decorated inside along with the house equip-ment. This tradition is still alive: there is an annual competi-tion for the best decorated house. Tourists can admire the beautiful old farm of Felicja Curyłowa, which is a classical example of a decorated cottage from Zalipie.

On the way back to Tarnów, it is worth moving to the western bank of Dunajec. Not far from Szczurowa is the vil-lage Dołęga, situated at the edge of a forest. This is a great opportunity to get a taste of what a typical resi dence of the early 20th-century gentry looked like. In Dołęga there is also a charming, classical manor house from around 1845, with the preserved interior design from the turn of the century.

Felicja Curyłowa Farm, Zalipie 135, \ +48 14 6411912, /  www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; ›  Tue–Sun 10am–2pm;

 PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2, photography: PLN 5, film-ing: PLN 15. Manor House in Dołęga, Dołęga 10, \ +48 14 6715414, / www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; › Tue–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat and Sun 10am–2pm;  PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2.

The Petrified City, photo by D. Gębuś Zalipie, photo by P. Mierniczak

Manor house, Kąśna Dolna, UMWM photo archive

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A weekend around... Nowy Sącz

Nowy Sącz lies in the extensive mountainous valley, between the hills of Beskid Wyspowy, Sądecki and the Low Beskids. Around here you can enjoy a number of leisure activities, such as hiking and cycling up steep slopes, peaks and moun-tain passes. A visit to Nowy Sącz is also a perfect opportunity to explore the culture of the Ruthinian highlanders (the Lem-kos) who live in the Low Beskids. Surrounded by mountains are the beautiful wooden Orthodox temples, which have subsequently been changed into Christian churches but have preserved the three characteristic tall, bulbous towers.

Nowy Sącz is also the place to go for those who like spending time close to water. You can choose between the water reservoirs in Klimkówka, the Rożnowskie and Czchowskie Lakes, where you can swim and practice var-ious water sports.

In the winter you should visit the many skiing areas, in-cluding the cable-railway to Jaworzyna Krynicka, the new skiing area in Rytro, and the biggest one in Wierchomla Mała. Sightseeing Nowy Sącz is an occasion to visit “the wa-ters”. The town is located very near numerous mineral water springs, including the most beautiful spa in Krynica-Zdrój.

A trip down the Poprad river gorge to KrynicaStary Sącz is only 8 km from Nowy Sącz. Its vast market square surrounded by historic low buildings is not the only tourist attraction of the city. In the 13th century, a fortified convent of St. Clare was founded by Princess Kinga, the wife of Prince Bolesław V the Chaste. After her husband’s death, Kinga became a nun, and nowadays she is recog-nised by the Catholics as a saint.

South of Stary Sącz the Poprad Valley narrows. Travelling through Rytro, with its ruins of a 13th-century castle, you will arrive at Piwniczna-Zdrój. Across Poprad, at the stretch be-tween the two towns, flatboat rallies are organised.

In Muszyna you leave the Poprad Valley and head for Krynica. On the way, you pass by the village of Powroźnik, with its wooden Lemko Orthodox church from 1600. Krynica-Zdrój is a famous spa situated at the foot of Ja-worzyna Krynicka (1114 m asl). You can reach the top of this mountain by cable railway. On the slope there is a ski resort. The main attraction of the town centre are the im-pressive old wooden villas. One of them houses the muse-um of Nikifor Krynicki, a famous primitivist Lemko paint-er from the Low Beskids.

Town hall in Nowy Sącz, photo by J. Gorlach Orthodox church in Powroźnik, photo by P. Mierniczak

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Around the Czchowskie and Rożnowskie Lakes

The main road from Nowy Sącz to Brzesko cuts across very picturesque lands. Right after passing Tęgoborze village you drive into the mountain pass of St. Just (400 m asl), which is a perfect vantage point. Another local tourist attraction is the church of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the second half of the 17th century, which is situated over the mountain pass.

Further, the road leads to the Czchowskie Lake. Right above it, on a steep rock sits the Tropsztyn Castle. A few kilometres further up north of Czchów, the remains of another castle ap-pear in the form of a massive tower. In the town itself you can visit the market square with wooden houses and a church from the 13th century. Another temple from this period, the church of Sts. Svorad and Benedict, can be found in the nearby village of Tropie.

Side roads lead from Tropie to Rożnów, which boasts a  16th-century bastion. A  little bit further, the valley is divided by a concrete dam, thanks to which the Rożnowskie Lake was formed. The scenic routes lead from Rożnów through Gródek by the Dunajec river, high over the eastern slopes of the lake in the direction of Nowy Sącz. The whole route is about 75 km long.

At the foot of the Low Beskids Travelling from Nowy Sącz to the east, in the direction of the Beskid hills, it is worth paying a visit to the biggest her-itage park in Małopolska, i.e. Sądecki Ethnographic Park. The most interesting village in the Low Beskids is Łosie, once famous for the production of grease (used as a med-ication or lubricant). Today the Lemko culture and the trav-els of “greasers” from Łosie in particular, is portrayed at a permanent exhibition and along the walking trail. Near Łosie the Ropa River is separated with a dam, which creates the Klimkówka Lake (conducive to windsurfing).

In the Ropa Valley, 34 km from Nowy Sącz, lies the town of Szymbark, known for its interesting heritage park and the manor of the Gładysz family, a fortified gentry resi-dence from the 16th century.

A few kilometres further, in Gorlice, you may wish to see the manor house of the Karwacjan family from the 15th century, and a monument of the first street oil lamp, commemorat-ing its inventor, Ignacy Łukasiewicz, who was born in Gorlice.

Sądecki Ethnographic Park, ul. Wieniawy Długoszew-skiego 83b, \ +48 18 5331823, / www.muzeum.sacz.pl; ›  May–Sept, Tue–Sun 10am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Mon–Fri 10am–2pm;   PLN 12, concessions: PLN 7, Sat: admis-sion free. The Prof. Roman Reinfuss Heritage Park of Pogórzańska Village in Szymbark, /  www.gorlice.art.pl; › May–Sept, Tue–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Mon–Fri 9am–3pm;  PLN 4 and PLN 7, conces-sions: PLN 2 and PLN 4, Thu: admission free.

Sądecki Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba

Church in Tropie, UMWM photo archive Czchowskie Lake, photo by S. Gacek

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A weekend around… Zakopane

Zakopane is a place where you cannot run out of things to do. The same goes for its surrounding areas, particularly the majestic Tatra Mountains, which are a perfect tourist destination in the summer and winter.

In the town itself you can find the original, wooden Pod-hale-style buildings. Taking a trip through Podhale, which is one of the most important tourist regions in Poland, you can encounter many precious monuments, e.g. a small UNESCO-listed church in Dębno Podhalańskie, as well as the great cas-tles in Czorsztyn and Niedzica, which lie above the waters of the Czorsztyńskie Lake. (In the summer swimming areas are created around the lake along with places where you can hire water sports equipment.) The biggest attraction of Pieniny is rafting down the Dunajec river gorge. Water forcing its way through rocky walls creates an unforgettable landscape.

In the winter, Zakopane offers high-quality ski slopes, in-cluding the famous runs on the slopes of Kasprowy Wierch, Gubałówka, Szymoszkowa, and Antałówka. Other local towns also known among ski lovers are Białka Tatrzańska and Kluszkowce.

When you are finished skiing, you can have a rest in the modern, recently opened baths with thermal waters. Such baths can also be found in Zakopane, Bukowina Tatrzańska and in Biały Dunajec.

Zakopane and the Tatra MountainsVisiting Zakopane is a perfect opportunity to learn about the wooden architecture of Podhale highlanders, and to see the beautiful villas in Zakopane style, which was inspired by the folklore of this region. It is worth visiting the Koliba vil-la, housing the Museum of Zakopane Style. Other unique examples of the Zakopane style include the Pod Jedlami villa and the charming chapel in Jaszczurówka designed by Stanisław Witkiewicz, the creator of the Zakopane style.

In the vicinity of Krupówki, a famous Zakopane prome-nade, there is the grand building of the Tatra Museum de-voted to the mountains, the Podhale folklore and the his-tory of the exploration of the Tatra Mountains.

You can also find many churches and monasteries in Za-kopane. However, most pilgrims go to the sanctuary of our Lady of Fatima in Krzeptówki, which is run by the Pallotines

and strongly linked with John Paul II. Before you travel from Zakopane

to the Tatra Mountains, it is worth tak-ing a funicular railway to the top of Gubałówka (1120 m asl). This pictur-esque mountain ridge emerges from the north of Zakopane, just on the opposite side of the Giewont peak. Another way to admire the mountain panorama is to

A view on Giewont, photo by J. Gorlach Cable car to Kasprowy Wierch, photo by J. Gorlach

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take a ride on a cable car from Kuźnice to Kasprowy Wierch (1985 m asl). The most beautiful lake in the Tatra Mountains is Morskie Oko, lying at the foot of the highest peak in Poland, Rysy (2499 m asl). The lake can be reached by a 10 km asphalt road, also frequented by horse buses.

The best place to stop by and take a rest after an ex-hausting hike is a newly built water park at the foot of Antałówka, which offers thermal water baths.

Tatra Museum in Zakopane – Main Building, ul. Krupówki 10, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2015205, / www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl; › Wed–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–3pm;  PLN 7, concessions: PLN 5.50. The Museum of Zakopane Style, ul. Kościeliska 18, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2013602, / www.muzeumtatrzańskie.com.pl; ›   as above. Funicular Rail Gubałówka, ul. Na Gubałówkę, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2014830, / www.pkl.pl; › rides: July–Aug, 8am–9.45pm; Jan–June and Sept, 9am–8pm; Oct, 9am–7pm; Nov–Dec, 9am–6pm;  one way in high season: PLN 10, return: PLN 15, concessions: PLN 8 and PLN 12. Cableway to Kasprowy Wierch, Kuźnice, \ +48 18 2014510, / www.pkl.pl; › rides: return; Jul–Aug, 7.30am–7pm; Apr–Jun and Sept–Oct, 7.30am–4pm; March, 7.30am–3.30pm; Feb, 7.30am–3pm; Nov-Jan, 7.30 am–2pm;  one way in high sea-son: PLN 32, return: PLN 42, concessions: PLN 27 and PLN 32. Aqua Park Zakopane – thermal baths, ul. Jagiellońska 31, \ +48 18 202 5815, / www.aquapark.zakopane.pl; › daily, 9am–10pm;  PLN 13-60.

Through Podhale and Orawa Podhale, one of the most beautiful regions of Poland, stretches at the foot of the Tatra Mountains. Several doz-en years ago, all villages in Podhale only featured wooden cottages with shingled roofs. At present, only the village of Chochołów, situated 20 km from Zakopane, retained its character. Some of the cottages in Chochołów were built of massive timber logs, so that the entire wall was made up of only two thick beams!

From Chochołów you may go through the extensive peat bogs and flatlands of Kotlina Nowotarska until you reach the Orawa region. Travelling through Czarny Duna-jec and Jabłonka, you will get to the village of Orawka, with a wooden, Gothic church from 1656. The folk build-ings of the Orawa region do not resemble the architecture of Podhale, which you can observe in the heritage park in Zubrzyca Górna, displaying numerous cottages in Orawa style, with wyżka, a chamber in the attic.

A tremendous massif of Babia Góra (1725 m asl), referred to as the Queen of the Beskids, looms over Orawa. It is also the highest peak of the Beskids. A trek to the peak is not very demanding, as the road from Zubrzyca Górna takes you up to the height of 1000 m, to the Krowiarki pass. This trail leads through the area of Babia Góra National Park, and the walk to Babia Góra takes approx. 2 hrs 30 minutes.

Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna, \ +48 18 285 2709, / www.orawa.eu; › daily, May–Sept, 8.30am–5pm; Oct–Apr, 8.30am–2.30pm;  PLN 18, concessions: PLN 12.

A view on Morskie Oko, UMWM photo archive

Chochołów, UMWM photo archive

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It is worth making some stops on the way to or from Zako-pane. In Chabówka, situated 40 km away from Zakopane, there is the Rolling Stock Heritage Park with historic car-riages and engines.

From Chabówka you can go through Jordanów to Sucha Beskidzka (33 km). This town is famous for a beautiful ren-aissance castle, proudly bearing the name of “a small Wa-wel” owing to the charm of arcaded cloisters at the court-yard. In the centre of Sucha there is an 18th century wooden tavern named Rzym (Rome), presently a restaurant.

Rolling Stock Heritage Park in Chabówka, \ +48 18 267 6200, / www.parowozy.pl; › daily, 7am–7pm;  PLN 5, concessions: PLN 2.5, tour with a guide: PLN 20. Municipal Museum in Sucha Beskidzka castle, ul. Zamkowa 1, \ +48 33 874 2605, / www.muzeum.sucha-beskidzka.pl; › May–Oct, Tue–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Nov–Apr, Tue–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat–Sun 9am–3pm;  PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4.

Through Podhale in search of oscypekFor centuries, the highlanders in Podhale have pastured sheep on grazing lands, situated high up in the mountains. Today, one of the symbols of Podhale, and the most famous regional deli-cacy is oscypek, i.e. a smoked, hard sheep’s cheese.

There is a special Oscypek Route which leads through the Podhale. It enables you to visit bacówki (shepherd’s huts) in which local specialties are produced, including os-cypek, a spicy bryndza (ewe’s milk cheese) and other deli-cacies made of sheep’s milk.

In the surroundings of Zakopane it is worth going for a walk to the picturesque valleys of the Tatra Mountains: Kościeliska and Chochołowska. In both of them you will find huts producing oscypek, and along the way you can ad-mire the landscape of the limestone Western Tatras. Oscypek is also produced in Gorce. This mountain range, which in-cludes Gorczański National Park, is rarely visited by the tour-ists, while a beautiful, extensive Hala Długa (Long Pasture) at the foot of Turbacz (1310 m asl) is one of the places where a shepherd hut producing oscypek can be found.

You can climb it from Kowaniec (district of Nowy Targ) or from Łopuszna village, which is a less attended trail. In Łopuszna it is also worth seeing a wooden church from the second half of the 15th century, and an 18th century man-or house of the Tetmajer family, now housing an interest-ing Museum of Gentry Culture.

Information about Oscypek Route: / www.tatry.pl. Mu-zeum Kultury Szlacheckiej (Museum of Gentry Culture), ul. Gorczańska 2, Łopuszna, \ +48 18 2653919; › Wed–Sun 10am–4pm;  PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4.50.

Tatra National Park, UMWM photo archive

Redyk herding, UMWM photo archiveOscypek cheese, UMWM photo archive

Sucha Beskidzka castle photo by P. Marekwica

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Rafting down the Dunajec gorge to Pieniny The wonderful scenery of the Dunajec river gorge in Pie-niny, with 300-metre rocks makes an unforgettable im-pression. Rafting on Dunajec between Sromowce and Krościenko is one of the most unique tourist attractions in Małopolska; therefore, it is worth coming here from Zako-pane, even though it is a distance of 55 km.

Tourist routes through the Pieniny National Park lead to vantage points on the peaks of Sokolica and Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) (982 m asl), Pieniny’s highest mountain. A near-by town of Szczawnica is an old spa with numerous mineral sources, historic wooden spa buildings, and a cable car to the Palenica peak (719 m asl), from which you can take a trip along the picturesque mountain range of Małe Pieniny. In the neighbouring Jawory, you can find small charming nature re-serves: Homole Gorge and Biała Woda Gorge.

Rafting on Dunajec – The Polish Association of Pieniny Raft-ers, \ +48 18 2629721, / www.flisacy.com.pl; › rafts operate from Apr–Oct; booking desks are open daily: May–Aug, 8.30am–5pm; Sept, 8.30am–4pm; Apr, 9am–4pm; Oct, 9am–3pm;  to Szczawnica: PLN 44, concessions: PLN 22; to Krościenko: PLN 53, concessions: PLN 26.50. Cable car - Palenica, ul. Główna 7, Szcza-wnica, \ +48 18 262199, / www.pkl.pl; › Jul–Aug and Jan–Feb, 9am–7.30pm; May–Jun, 9am–18.30pm; Sept, 9am–6pm; March–Apr and Oct, 9am–5.30pm; Nov, 9am–4.30pm; Dec, 9am–3.30pm;

 in high season: one way: PLN 8, return: PLN 12.

Around Czorsztyn LakeAt the foot of Pieniny and Gorce stretches a picturesque Czchowskie Lake. On the lake shore you can find beaches and water sports equipment rentals; sailing in such scen-ery is a pure pleasure!

On the southern side of the lake, just above the dam that separates Dunajec and that contributed to the crea-tion of the lake, towers the castle in Niedzica. This build-ing was used as a watchtower on the Polish-Hungarian border that used to run here. On the opposite side of Nid-zica, on the steep hill, you will find the ruins of the cas-tle in Czorsztyn. This fortress used to guard the Dunajec crossing, and today it is adapted for sightseeing and con-stitutes a perfect vantage point.

On the opposite edge of the lake it is worth visiting a picturesque Dębno Podhalańskie village. The church of St. Michael the Archangel that can be found here is a masterpiece from 1480, created by carpenter craftsmen. It is also one out of four wooden churches in Małopolska inscribed on the UNESCO list.

Museum of the Castle Complex in Niedzica, \ +48 18 2629489; › May–Sep, daily 9am–7pm; Oct–Nov, Tue–Sun 9am–4pm;

 PLN 9, concessions: PLN 7; visits only with a guide; ticket price includes a visit to a tower and a coach house. The Ruins of the Czorsztyn Castle, › May–Sep, daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Tue–Sun 10am–3pm;  PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2.

View from the peak of Sokolica, photo by D. ZaródRafting down Dunajec gorge, photo by T. Gębuś Czorsztyn Lake, photo by J. Gorlach

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