LVC Hotrod 14 oz.

Levi‘s® Vintage Clothing presents a tribute to the HOT ROD @ 14 oz. store, Berlin 22.03.2013

THE EVENT

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2 Silk Relations GmbH | LVC Hot Rod exhibition | 22.03.2013

Levi‘s® Vintage Clothing Hot Rod exhibition @ 14 oz.

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On March 22nd Levi‘s® Vintage Clothing celebrated the opening of the Hot Rod tribute exhibition at 14 oz., Haus Cumberland, Berlin. Around 150 attendants, among them editors of Berlin`s best fashion magazines, stylists, influencers and friends came together for some drinks and an exhibition, that pays tribute to the golden era of American Hot Rod featuring the following 5 elements: •  35 “Kustom Monster“ 1950s Crewshirts by Von Franco •  Hot Rod: circa 1953 – A film by Aaron Rose •  An exhibition remembering Hot Rod pioneer Norman Grabowski •  Fender Stratocaster® Hot Rod tribute •  SS 13 Levi‘s® Vintage Clothing collection

Silk Relations GmbH | LVC Hot Rod exhibition | 22.03.2013

Levi‘s® Vintage Clothing Hot Rod exhibition at 14 oz.


THE VENUE

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14 oz., Kuhrfürstendamm 193-194, Berlin-Charlottenburg

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The international multi-label store 14 oz., founded by Karl-Heinz Müller focusing on top denim brands, opened its second store in Berlin in the Haus Cumberland in 2012.

Haus Cumberland is a very historic building. The house was built in 1911/1912 as an intended high-class boarding house but was first used in 1913 as a Grand Hotel and later on as facility for cultural and administrational institutions. For the re-opening in 2012 it has been completely renovated.


Setting


Exhibition remembering Norman Garbowski

Hot Rod: circa 1953 – A film by Aaron Rose

Fender Stratocaster® Hot Rod tribute

Setting


35 ”Kustom Monster” 1950s Crewshirts by Von Franco

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S/S 13 Levi’s® Vintage Clothing collection

THE GUESTS

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Silk Relations GmbH | Molami Dinner | 18.01.2012 10

Highlights of attending press

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Selection of press attending the event:

SANDRA VON MAYER-MYRTENHAIN – 032C

SAGHAR YAZDANI – HIGHSNOBIETY

CAROLINE LEMBLÉ – INTERVIEW MAGAZINE

MARTIN GRÖGER – JPEOPLE

JAN KLUTHMANN – LODOWN

SUSAN STONE – WOMEN`S WEAR DAILY

SANDRA ESPENHAIN – ZOO MAGAZINE Silk Relations GmbH | LVC Hot Rod exhibition | 22.03.2013

Highlights of attending press


PRESS COVERAGE

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By DAVID MOIN

Hey big spenders: Count Hudson’s Bay Co. as part of the club.

The $4 billion Toronto-based owner and opera-tor of Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor sees spend-ing $180 million annually on capital expenditures over the next fi ve years, joining Macy’s, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Belk in a widening fi eld of retail-ers getting capital-intensive.

“We are spending in a very healthy way,” Richard Baker, the chief executive offi cer of Hudson’s Bay Co., told WWD in an exclusive interview Tuesday on where the company is investing. “We happen to have a lot of good new projects. You want to spend money on things that improve the store and get a healthy return. ”

At the Queen Street fl agship in Toronto, Hudson’s Bay will develop a 20,000-square-foot Kleinfeld Bridal salon, seen opening in early 2014. Canada’s largest shoe department — 30,000 square feet — is scheduled for a fall 2013 debut at the Queen Street fl agship.

Also on tap:� Five additional Topshops opening this fall in Hudson’s Bay locations across Canada, bringing the total to 11. The company started opening Topshop/Topman in-store shops in 2011.

� Re-platforming the Web site thebay.com in the sec-ond quarter of this year.�� Overhauling Hudson’s Bay on Bloor Street in Toronto, which strikes a stark contrast to the Queen Street fl agship. It’s a tired, anemic store, and other retailers have been interested in taking over the site. But Baker told WWD he’s not giving it up and that he’s cooking up plans to revive it. � At the 650,000-square-foot Lord & Taylor fl agship on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, a two-level, 100,000-square-foot men’s store is seen opening this September, dou-bling the space for the category. Men’s will be on the ninth and 10th fl oors. The fl agship previously re-worked the main fl oor and touched up a few others at a cost of $25 million, and is now engaged in a two-year, $40 million renovation involving several more levels.

Lord & Taylor will also open an 80,000-square-foot store in Mizner Park, Boca Raton, Fla., this September, marking its fi rst full-line reentry into Florida after pulling out of the state 10 years ago. Lord & Taylor does have a two-year-old outlet in Dolphin Mall in Miami.

Generally, retailers have been hesitant to make major capital outlays since the Great Recession, though that’s changing. After stowing some cash, seeing con-sumers slowly start to shop more and watching their stores get worn out, retailers are starting to spend se-lectively on projects revolving around omnichannel and international initiatives and renovations.

The $12 billion Nordstrom is prepared to spend to open a Manhattan fl agship on 57th Street in 2018, and even sooner enter Canada with full-line and Rack outlets starting in fall 2014 with a unit in the Chinook Centre in Calgary, which will be followed by

WWDKELLY COLE FORMS PARTNERSHIP WITH JEANS DESIGNER SEAN HORNBEAK. PAGE 8

TWO OF A KIND

WEDNESDAY, MARCH 27, 2013 � $3.00 � WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

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Just DandyTraditional haberdashery turns it up for fall with a fresh new look. Here, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel’s modern-day topcoat, done in Neoprene and worn with the label’s cotton T-shirt and shorts and an Albertus Swanepoel top hat. For more, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT CROWN GROUP HOSPITALITY’S BILL’S FOOD & DRINK; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

$180M A YEAR

Hudson’s Bay SetsBig Capex Program

SEE PAGE 6

The Hudson’s Bay fl agship in Toronto.

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WATCHMAKING. PAGE 9

WWD.COM8 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 27, 20138

DENIM

Kelly Cole Links With Sean HornbeakBy ARNOLD J. KARR

KELLY COLE can add another occupation to his long résumé: partner.

Cole, a bicoastal presence with extensive experience as an actor, disc jockey, club owner and sportswear and even inte-rior designer, in July opened a store under his own name on La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles, and his playful approach to jeans and both solid and graph-ic T-shirts quickly attracted the likes of Maroon 5’s Adam Levine and singer Christina Aguilera.

It also drew the attention of numerous retailers, including Maxfield, American Rag and Fred Segal Santa Monica, which became the business’ first whole-sale accounts. Cole, sensing an opportunity and needing assis-tance to capitalize on it, turned to Sean Hornbeak, who’d been responsible for putting both J Brand and Current/Elliott into the men’s business, and the piec-es immediately fit.

Cole and Hornbeak are now 50-50 partners in Kelly Cole and are working together to build a meaningful wholesale business and take it beyond the emphasis on unisex knits and jeans that has distinguished the company’s efforts to date.

“I’d been helping Kelly with

a few accounts and ideas after leaving Current/Elliott but began to think it was time to move on to my next collection,” Hornbeak said. “But it began to dawn on both of us that our aesthetics and personalities meshed really well, and it hit me that Kelly was already in some of the best stores on the West Coast. Why not build on that and grow? It all seemed to make sense. It’s fine with me if the label says ‘Kelly Cole.’”

The partners’ paths had crossed numerous times be-fore, including during Cole’s op-eration of his Lo-Fi fashion/art boutique while Hornbeak pur-sued his love of vintage denim through Denim Doctors.

“It was clear to both of us that our aesthetics complemented each other and we had fun work-

ing together,” said Cole. “And Sean had the experience working with some of the larger companies we’d need to build on what was pretty much an improvised start.”

Hornbeak noted, “I knew design and the creative aspect of things, but working with the brands I have opened me up to sales and p.r. And working at J Brand taught me the importance of making a core basic program the foundation you need to build on.”

That philosophy of expanding on a solid core is apparent in the collection the two have assem-bled for fall. “We’re taking what’s working with our core clientele in L.A. — our blank and graphic Ts and our jeans — and adding more cut-and-sewn pieces as we grow. We want to keep it as sim-ple, narrow and deep as we can.”

For fall, that means a line that, while gargantuan perhaps by Kelly Cole’s earlier standards, is tight and sharply focused, numbering just 55 stockkeeping units that, with few exceptions, wholesale at under $100.

There are two jeans fits for men and two for women, with a new boyfriend fit executed in raw denim. The Ts remain uni-sex but have been supplement-ed with crewneck and V-neck knits, a crewneck sweatshirt and a fleece motorcycle jacket. Accessories offerings currently

are limited to five leather belts and two messenger bags.

The two are particularly en-thused about a group of printed chino bottoms that are a modi-fication of a project Hornbeak started at Current/Elliott. “The feedback on these has been ter-rific,” he noted. “Our retail ac-counts are telling us these are bottoms that their customers ‘live in.’”

Everything is produced in L.A. “As long as we can control that, that’s how we want it,” Cole said. “We come from working-class American families, and we know that, at least at a certain price level, there’s a capacity to man-ufacture in the U.S. and make it cost effective.”

Hornbeak noted, “Consumers are starting to finally make that an issue, something they’re pay-ing attention to.”

Although they expect their business to continue to revolve around specialty stores, the partners are looking to build re-lationships with a handful of de-partment stores. To support the growth they believe is ahead, they’re exploring additional sources of financing as well.

Trained as an actor and well known for his work as a DJ, Cole long had a sense that fashion, so often tied to music, was somehow calling him, whether through his

friendship with the late designer Stephen Sprouse or what he de-scribed as an “unbelievably inspi-rational” gig he had as a DJ at a party thrown by Barry Schwartz, Calvin Klein’s business partner.

He said he wants to produce “a graphic [T-shirt] story that’s thought provoking every sea-son, something that sparks a dialogue between people either because the person seeing the shirt is curious or, like with rock ’n’ roll T-shirts, sees that he’s got something in common with the person wearing it.”

“Our story will not only be aesthetically pleasing and cool and incorporate responsible washes and printing process, but something timely and rel-evant that can spark that dia-logue,” he said. HO

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Levi’s Hot Rod Rally Revs Up in BerlinFAST CARS, cool shirts and a Fender guitar.

The spirit of 1953 made a pit stop in Berlin last week, courtesy of Levi’s Vintage Clothing. The retro-denim special-ists’ traveling exhibition, a tribute to the hot rod and the culture associ-ated with it, pulled into denim-focused retailer 14 oz. on Friday night to de-liver a glimpse of a time when reconditioned road-sters were all the rage and distressed denim a by-product of wear rather than production.

On display were origi-nal images from Life magazine showing the rise of the drag race, a short film looking at the day of the drag strip by artist Aaron Rose and a look at the era’s do-it-yourself aes-thetic, which promoted customization of cars and clothing. Created especially for the display were a pair of showpiece pants with a battered leather pocket and a vest with Jalopy embroidery and leather trim. A reproduction of a 1957 Fender electric guitar was also on dis-play, antiqued to give it the same look of gritty wear-and-tear.

A vitrine showed 35 custom-made airbrushed sweatshirts by Von Franco, which will be sold in select boutiques after the exhibition has finished its tour. The homage to hot rod is de-signed to coincide with Levi’s Vintage Clothing’s spring line of archive-in-fluenced looks including jeans, bomb-er jackets and fitted ringer T-shirts printed with stars or stripes — classic Americana with an edge.

Martin White, European sales direc-tor for Levi’s, described Levi’s Vintage Clothing as “reissues” rather than “re-productions” of the brand’s classic looks. The next exhibition will be cen-

tered around Detroit 1964 with a focus on early Motown.

With jeans priced at $250 in the U.S., and 249 euros, or about $323 at current exchange, in Europe, the line is sell-ing authenticity to an aware audience. “We let consumers make up their own minds. A lot of denim companies tend to preach a bit,” White explained. His view is that Levi’s has been seen as a blank canvas for creativity and sub-culture, evident in the customizing craze of the hot rod era currently

under the merchandising microscope. Along with London, Paris, Stockholm

and Milan, Berlin is one of Levi’s five European hubs. With progress in Russia, he’s hoping to see Eastern Europe gain traction, too.

The exhibit has already hit Los Angeles, Brooklyn, N.Y., and London and will remain parked in Berlin at 14 oz. until April 6 before heading to the finish line in Tokyo.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing will be back in town this summer for Berlin’s Bread & Butter trade show, exhibiting in the Lock section.

— SUSAN STONE

Levi’s Martin White (center)

talks to guests at 14 oz.

Custom-made Levi’s in a display at 14 oz.

Sean Hornbeak and Kelly Cole

Printed chinos for fall 2013.

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Thank you!

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LVC Hotrod 14 oz.

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