LP Slovak Rep East Slovakia 2007 5th

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Domica Cave

GombaseckCave

E571To Zvden(55km)

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To LiptovskMikulas (20km)

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Ochtinsk Cave

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Dobin

DobinskIce Cave

Hornd Hrabuice

Poprad Spisktvrtok

StarSmokovec

Vek Lomnica

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HUNGARY

Koice

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Storaljajhely

Trebiov

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MichalovcePozdiovceHerany

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Spi Castle

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beneath the Tatras in Kemarok (p412) Float gently down the river between the towering cliffs of Dunajec gorge (p414) Go deep into the earth in the caves of the Slovak Karst (p424)

Hervartov

Zborov

Slovak Karst

Take a break in the pleasant town square

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Church of St James in Levoa (p416)

Spi CastleSlovensk rajNational Park

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See Slovakias greatest Gothic altar at the

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Ondava

EAST SLOVAKIA

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castle in Slovakia

EAST SLOVAKIA

Hike to Spi castle (p418), the largest

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Slovensk raj National Park (p420)

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Unesco-listed Bardejov (p427) Climb a ladder alongside a waterfall at

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BarwinekDukla passNinVyn KomrnikKomrnikDobroslavaPrkraBodrualKrajn PoanaMiroaMikovLadomirovMedzilaborceSvidnk

Much of the Spi region is within easy day-trip distance from the resort towns of theHigh Tatras.

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If youre craving city life, the east has that too. Koice, the countrys second-largest city, is agrand mix of old and new, with a lively bar and caf scene and a towering Gothic cathedral.Among all this eastern beauty is spread a fair share of industrial ugliness, but in general theregion still has a rural tranquillity and sense of remove worth discovering.

View the striking Renaissance square in

UKRAINE

Summer OnlyBorder CrossingRusksedlo(795m) DzurkpwiecBeDurkovec iertzs k(1189m) (1071m)y dKremenec (1221m)yPoloninyTopoa NPRuskNov SedlicaPotokJalov

50 km30 miles

Wooden churches, sprawling castle ruins, crashing waterfalls just beyond the High Tatraslies the most intriguing, and least accessible, region in Slovakia. Its isolation has for centuriespreserved many folk customs, as well as protected a rich architectural heritage and naturalbeauty. Here you can step back into the 15th century in Spi, or explore one of four nationalparks. Visit the wooden churches, or a skanzen (open-air village museum) in the borderlandsand Sari areas to experience the traditional culture.

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E A S T S L O VA K I A 407

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Lonely Planet Publications406

Tyrbreie

TRANSPORTBus Station.......................................42 D5

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HotelainovSlovanPrib9DargovDepartment631 Store

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prize for sight most likely to grace your Koicepostcard home. Europes easternmost Gothiccathedral (first built in about 1380 but remodelled many times) dominates the square.

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The dark and brooding Cathedral of St Elizabeth

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(Dm sv Albety; %0908667093; adult/student 70/35Sk;h1-5pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) wins the

SHOPPINGBijou DK...........................................41 B4

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KasrensknmTescoDepartmentStore7

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ENTERTAINMENTPiano Caf....................................... 36Puppet Theatre................................ 37Romathan........................................ 38State Philharmonic........................... 39State Theatre....................................40

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DRINKINGCaf Slvia.....................................(see 22)Cukrre Aida..................................33 B4Jazz Club..........................................34 B4Plzesk Pub....................................35 B4

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DEATINGBamba Lina...................................... 28 C5Gvinda........................................... 29 C5Keltsk Krma.................................. 30 A4Lahdky...........................................31 B6Retaurcia Dal................................32 A3Rosto Steak House.........................(see 26)

To Preov(36km)

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SLEEPINGHotel Slvia................................22K2..............................................23Penzin Nad Bankou..................24Penzin Platz............................. 25Penzin Slovakia.........................26Ubytova Mestsk Park............. 27

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Executioner's Bastion...............(see 14)Ferenc Rkczi House................ 14 B4Jesuit Church............................. 15 B4Miklu Prison..............................16 B4Musical Fountain........................17 B5Plague Column...........................18 B4St Michael's Chapel....................19 B5Shire Hall.................................(see 12)Slovak Technical Museum.......... 20 B4Urban Tower............................(see 21)Wax Museum............................ 21 B5

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als and fiction in English, some by Slovak authors.City Information Centre (%625 8888; www.kosice.sk; Hlavn 59; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Thelarge, busy official tourist office has books and mapsgalore, and internet terminals for 30Sk per hour. It also runsinfo stands at the airport and train stations (same hours).Faculty hospital L Pasteura (Fakultn nemocnica LPasteura; %615 3111; Rastislavova 43) One kilometresouth of the main square.Left Luggage (train station; per day/item 40Sk;h3.30-noon & 1pm-12.30am)udov Banka (Mlynsk 29) Bank and ATM.Municipal Information Centre Koice (MIC; %16168; www.mickosice.sk) Tesco Department Store (Hlavn111; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm Sat); DargovDepartment Store (Hlavn 2; h8am-7pm) Small, personalinfo stands, with vibrant staff and tons of knick-knacksfor sale.Net Club (Hlavn 9; per hr 50Sk; h9am-10pm) Fastinternet connections.Police (%622 4289; Pribinova 6)

32

Moyzesov

Koice received its city coat of arms in 1369and became an eastern stronghold and manufacturing centre in the Hungarian Empire.Transylvanian prince Ferenc Rkczi IIhad his headquarters in Koice during theHungarian War of Independence against theHapsburgs (170311), which failed. He wasshipped off to Turkey and reburied here onlyin 1905. To this day Koice has a strong Hun-

Plane, train and bus stations all have ATMs.Artforum (%623 2677; Mlynsk 6) Coffee-table pictori-

To Steam enginetrain ride (2.5km);Zoo Koice (9km)

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History

2

Koice is 20km north of Hungary, 90km southof Poland and 80km west of the Ukraine.The adjacent bus and train stations are lessthan 200m east of the main square, Hlavn,which broadens into Nm Slobody andHlavn nm.

Information

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESArchaeological Excavations........ 10Cathedral of St Elizabeth............ 11East Slovak Art Gallery................12East Slovak Museum.................. 13

Moyzesov

People just naturally seem to congregate alongthe long town square where caf terraces linethe streets and monumental architecture fillsthe centre. Buildings range from 12th-centuryGothic to 20th-century Art Nouveau. Craneyour neck to admire the massive Cathedral ofSt Elizabeth, before you head undergroundto explore the ancient citys archaeology.Come evening, gather with the locals on thebenches near the musical fountain, stop in acaf for a drink or attend a performance atthe State Theatre. Slovakias second city has areal sense of cohesion and community in theold town, which is missing from the capital.The industrial outskirts and vast residentialdistricts built during the communist era doleave something to be desired though.

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AINFORMATIONArtforum (bookstore)................... 1 B5City Information Centre............... 2 B5Internet Caf..............................(see 2)udov Banka...............................3 C5Left Luggage............................... 4 D4Main Post Office..........................5 D3Municipal Information CentreKoice...................................... 6 B6Municipal Information CentreKoice.......................................7 B3Net Club...................................... 8 B6Police........................................... 9 B6

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Orientation

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KOICE

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Train and bus services west of Preov andKoice are reliable and reasonably frequent.East of Preov and Koice regular publictransport links become scarce and mostplaces can only be reached by (sometimesinfrequent) buses. Car rental in Koice is agood option. The majority of roads are rurallanes in good condition. The only stretch ofmotorway in the east runs between Koiceand Preov, but construction is underway toaugment this.

E A S T S L O VA K I A K o i c e 409

Batov

Getting Around

garian accent and the Magyar language canoften be heard on the street.The town became part of Czechoslovakia in1918 but was occupied by Hungary from 1938to 1945. On 5 April 1945 the Koice Government Program which made communistdictatorship in Czechoslovakia a virtual certainty was announced here. Subsequently,the communists built a large steelworks onthe outskirts of the city. You cant miss USSteels influence today from the stacks atthe steelworks to the new ice hockey stadiumit sponsored.

lonelyplanet.com

Hradbov

Getting There & AwayIf time is short, its easiest to fly into Koiceand start exploring East Slovakia and theHigh Tatras from there. The E50 highwayfrom Bratislava dissects the Low and HighTatras and has motorway sections. Bus andtrain connections running across the northernpart of the country (via the High Tatras) arequicker and, in general, more frequent thanconnections across the southern part of thecountry.

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408 E A S T S L O VA K I A K o i c e

410 E A S T S L O VA K I A K o i c e

Frescoes decorate the interior, as do the stonesculptures by Master tefan, a local 15thcentury sculptor. Ferenc Rkczi II is buriedin the crypt on the left side of the nave. Forgrand views of the town climb the cathedralsornate tower. To the south of the cathedral isthe 14th-century St Michaels Chapel (Kaplinka svMichala; adult/student 30/15Sk; h1-5pm Mon, 9am-5pmTue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat). Entry to the cheesy WaxMuseum (Mzeum voskovch figurn; %623 2534; www.waxmuseum.sk; Hlavn 3; adult/student 120/80Sk; hnoon4pm Tue-Sun) gets you inside Urban Tower (built in

the 14th century, rebuilt in the 20th), on theother side of the church.Go underground to explore the buried remains of medieval Koice defence chambers,fortifications, waterways and the cathedralfoundations in the mazelike passages of thearchaeological excavations (%622 8393; adult/student25/10Sk; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), unearthed duringroadwork in 1996. More hidden treasureis on display at the East Slovak museum (Vchodoslovensk mzeum; %622 0309; Hviezdoslavovo 3;adult/student 40/20Sk; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun).

Workers found the secret stash of 2920 goldcoins, dating from the 15th to 18th centuries,while renovating a house on Hlavn in 1935.(Anyone have a shovel?) In the museum yardtheres a relocated 1741 wooden church thatsrarely open.Historically, Koice was known for itstinker tradesmen, and the Slovak Technicalmuseum (%622 4035; Hlavn 88; adult/student 40/20Sk;h8am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun) showsexamples of old machines and wrought-ironornamental work. A mix of traditional andout-there art characterises the East Slovak Artgallery (Vchodoslovensk galria; %622 6667; Hlavnwhere the 1945 Koice Government Programwas proclaimed.Ferenc Rkczi House (Hrniarska 7; adult/student40/20Sk; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) containssome of the Hungarian heroes personal effects. The museum complex was built in andaround the 15th-century Executioners bastion(Katova bata), part of Koices ancient fortifications. Buy tickets here for Miklu prison(Mikluova vznica; Pri Mikluovej vznici 10; adult/student30/10Sk; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), a con-

nected pair of 16th-century houses that onceserved as a prison and torture chamber.Young and old gather on the benches facingthe musical fountain, near the ornate, c 1900

State Theatre (opposite). To the north thereis a large plague column (1723).

Koice for ChildrenPuppet Theatre (Bbkov divadlo; %622 0455;www.bdke.sk; in Slovak; Rooseweltova 38) Holds daytimeperformances throughout the year.Steam engine train ride (%622 5925; rmel;adult/student 20/10Sk; hSat & Sun May-Aug) Great forthe kids during summer. Located north of the centre. Takebus 89 from outside the East Slovak Museum.Zoo Koice (%633 1517; iroka 31; www.zookosice.sk;adult/student 40/20Sk; h9am-7pm May-Oct, 10am-3pmNov-Apr) Located in the small village of Kaveany, 9kmnorth. To get there, take bus 29 from near the East Slovakmuseum to the final stop.

Festivals & EventsKoice Days On 17 May the city lets its hair down fora celebration of its citys founding that involves nightlyconcerts on the square, as well as food and beer stands.East Slovak Folk Festival This annual festival takesplace in mid-June.Race for Peace On the first Sunday in October, sportspeople from many countries participate in this marathon,held here since 1924.

SleepingThe City Information Centre puts out a booklet that lists student dormitories open to travellers in summer.Kosmalt (%642 3572; www.kosmalt.sk; Kysuck 16;s/d 590/630Sk; pi) This big apartment-blockhostel has a common game room, a bar andrestaurant, antique elevators and tolerablerooms. Take tram 6 from the train/bus stationto the Kino Druba stop.Penzin Slovakia (%728 9820; www.penzionslovakia.sk; Orli 6; s 950-1150Sk, d 1350-1750Sk) Stay at the smallcity guesthouse if you can its often booked.The broadband-connected rooms, namedafter Slovak towns, have more character thanmost wood-panelled ceilings, skylights andmidcentury mod furnishings. Theres a bofforestaurant downstairs, too.Penzin Nad Bankou (%683 8221; www.penzionnadbankou.holiday.sk; Kovska 63; s/d 1000/1400Sk; p)

Whitewashed walls and pine furniture characterise the simple pension above a bank.The owners can arrange a light airplane ridefor 1950Sk.Hotel Slvia (%622 4395; www.hotelslavia.sk; Hlavn63; s 2100-3050Sk, d 2700-3900Sk; pai) Colourful mosaic murals are the icing on this 1902Art Nouveau cake. The flourish continues

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

inside with serpentine, flower-shaped lightsand candy-coloured pastel walls in the rooms.Dont skip the pastry-and-coffee tradition atthe grand 1st-floor caf.Other options:Ubytova Mestsk Park (%633 3904; www.ubytovna-ke.sk; Mestsk Park 13; dm 220Sk) Workers hostel, mostlymale guests.K2 (%625 5948; trova 32; s/d without bathroom350/700Sk) Bed-only singles and doubles that fill fast.Penzin Platz (%622 3450; www.platz.sk; Dominiknske nm 23; r 1500-1800Sk) Its a modular veneer worldbehind the pretty plaster faade.

EatingThough this city isnt far behind the capitalin population, dont expect exotic food options; most menus have a generic international mix.Lahdky (Hlavn 2; mains 20-80Sk; h7am-7pm MonFri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) The ground-floorcafeteria at the Dargov Department Storeserves hot dishes sausages, stuffed cabbage rolls as well as sandwiches and salads.Theres a supermarket too.Gvinda (%620 0428; Pukinova 8; mains 80-120Sk;hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat) Enjoy divine vegetarianIndian food at a small eatery run by HareKrishnas. At midday theres usually a symboltapping chant parade.Bamba Lina (%622 0180; Mlynsk 22; pizzas 110160Sk; h11am-1am Mon-Thu, 11am-3am Fri, 6pm-3amSat, 5pm-midnight Sun) The young and the hip fill

the modern, loftlike dining room at all hours.They have a pretty good selection of veggiepizzas, including broccoli.Keltsk Krma (Celtic Pub; %622 5328; Hlavn 80;mains 160-300Sk; h10am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri& Sat, 3pm-11.30pm Sun) Vaulted ceilings, ancient-

looking masks and wood booths do create aCeltic sort of vibe that is conducive to leisurelyeating or drinking. The eclectic menu includesSlovak pork in an apricot sauce, English roastbeef and Mexican enchiladas.Still hungry?Retaurcia Dal (%625 1908; Strojrenska 21; mains200-400Sk) Timepieces hang from the ceiling whereupscale Slovak dishes are served.Rosto Steak House (%728 9820; Penzin Slovakia;Orli 6; mains 100-250Sk) Tasty grilled meats with variousdipping sauces.

DrinkingPlzesk Pub (%622 0402; Hlavn 92; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun) Czech beer on tap

E A S T S L O VA K I A K o i c e 411

and roast pork and dumplings in the kitchen(mains from 120Sk to 250Sk). Imbibe to yourhearts content out back in the beer garden.Drink your coffee or cocktail in turn-ofthe-20th-century style at Caf Slavi (%623 3190;Hotel Slavi, Hlavn 63; h7am-11pm) or indulge in acreamy cake with your java down the street atlocally revered Cukrre Aida (%625 6649; Hlavn81; h8am-10pm). Snacks cost 30Sk to 100Sk. Icecream for breakfast, yum.

EntertainmentThe free monthly publication Kam do mestahas comprehensive entertainment and restaurant listings in Slovak and is relativelyeasy to decipher.The City Information Centre sells sometickets for the opera and dance performancesat the State Theatre (ttne Divadlo Koice; %622 1231;www.sdke.sk; Hlavn 58; hbox office 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,10am-1pm Sat). The citys orchestra, the State Philharmonic (ttna Filharmnia Koice; %622 4514; www.sfk.sk; Moyzesova 66), has extra performances in May

during the spring music festival. Though stagedrarely, a performance by Romathan (%622 4980;www.romathan.sk; tefnikova 4), the countrys onlyRoma theatre group, is a mix of song, danceand exuberance worth seeing.A dance music DJ spins most nights inthe cellars of the Jazz Club (%622 4237; Kovska39; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri, 4pm2am Sat, 4am-midnight Sun) and at the Piano Caf(%0915517339; Hlavn 92; h10-midnight Mon-Thu,10am-1am Fri, 3pm-1am Sat, 3pm-midnight Sun), but each

occasionally has live jazz. The latter also hasan enclosed courtyard where a pianist playswhile diners chow down on pizza.In February 2006, the towns revered icehockey team HC Koice got a new home: SteelArna (www.steelarena.sk; Nerudova 12) will co-hostthe 2011 hockey world cup with Bratislava.Buy tickets at the Municipal InformationCentre Koice or at www.ticketportal.sk.

ShoppingWander onto Hrniarska for some trulyunique shopping. Along this traditional craftsman alley theres a potters shop, an ironworksmaster, a semiprecious gem specialist, a bakerand an herbalist store. The leather-maker isjust around the corner at Kovska 19.Bijou DK (%6259 859; Biela 7; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri)Buy hand-painted art you can wear (scarfs),drink from (wine glasses) and sparkle in(jewellery).

EAST SLOVAKIA

EAST SLOVAKIA

27; adult/student 40/20Sk; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 2-5.30pmSat & Sun) inside Shire hall (upn dom; 1779),


Sights

nm 45; adult/student 60/30Sk; h9am-noon & 1-5pm TueSun May-Sep; on the hour 8am-3pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) houses

a museum with archaeology, town historyand period furniture exhibits. Constructedin the 15th century, it was later surroundedwith massive bastions set off by delicate Spistyle battlements. A few remaining bits of the

The massive pea-green-and-red New Evangelical church (Nov Evanjelick kostel; %452 2242; cnr

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SLEEPINGPenzin & Retaurcia U Jakuba..12 B1Penzin Max...............................13 B1

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESBasilica of the Holy Cross..............5Castle...........................................6Exposition of HistoricalFurnishings...............................7Lower Gate.................................. 8New Evangelical Church...............9Town Wall & Bastion..................10Wooden Evangelical Church.......11

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INFORMATIONAlter Ego...................................... 1Internet Netca.............................. 2Kemarok Information Agency..... 3Veobecn verov banka............4

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been carved by students of Master Pavol ofLevoa (Majster Pavol z Levoa). The finelysgraffitoed, Renaissance belfry to the southwas erected in 1591.The whitewashed castle (hrad; %452 2618; Hradn

.kezmarok.net; Hlavn nm 46; h8am-noon & 1-5pmMon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun Jun-Sep) Stocksheaps of brochures and souvenirs. The staff can help withinfo about the eastern Tatras, too.Veobecn verov banka (VB; Hviezdoslavova 5)Has an ATM and exchange.

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Snuggled beneath the brooding peaks of theHigh Tatras, Kemarok may not seem dramatic, but its a truly pleasant place, withnumerous architecturally distinct churches, apocket-sized old town with resident castleAll those ice-cream shops and sidewalk cafsalone make it worth a day trip from the Tatraresort towns, but you might want to use thisas a base to explore further north.Kemarok was granted free royal townstatus in 1380 and was the second most important Spi town after Levoa, from medieval times until the 19th century. Native son

9pm) Email available.

Kemarok Information Agency (%452 4047; www

Ale

%052 / pop 12,740

2220; Nm poiarnikov; admission 10Sk; h9am-5pm Mon-FriJun-Sep), whose wooden altars are said to have

Dr

KEMAROK

best bookstore map selections in the country.

Internet Netca (Hlavn nm 62; per hr 35Sk; h10am-

ov

Frequent express trains run to and from Poprad (154Sk, 1 hours, up to 10 daily) andilina (316Sk, 2 hours, 14 daily). If yourecommuting all the way to and from Bratislavait can take six to seven hours on a fast train(518Sk); an Intercity or Eurocity train (IC orEC, five hours, four daily) is a better bet. Itsthe same price, except you need a seat reservation, which is 20Sk to 40Sk extra. For domesticschedules visit www.zsr.sk.A sleeper train leaves Koice every morningfor Kiev in the Ukraine (913Sk, 22 hours),stopping at op (193Sk, 2 hours), 14kmfrom Uzhhorod. Two daily trains (one overnight) head for Prague (1140Sk, 11 hours),two for Budapest in Hungary (967Sk, four

in 1718. The cross-shaped interior of carvedand painted wood is beautiful.On the site of one of the Germanic settlersoriginal churches is the late15th-centuryBasilica of the Holy Cross (Bazilika Svtho Kru; %452

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Kemarok is 14km from Tatransk Lomnicaand 16km from Poprad. The bus and trainstations are located about 500m northwest ofthe town centre.Alter Ego (%452 5432; Hlavn nm 3) Has one of the

ad

Big international chain rental agencies Hertz(%789 6041; www.hertz.sk) and Europcar (%683 2132;www.europcar.sk) are represented at the airport,but Alimex (%729 0100; www.alimex.sk) is cheaper,especially if youre willing to drive aroundwith adverts painted on the car (as little as699Sk per day with unlimited kilometres).

A singular blend of Slovak and German culture, and a whole lotta Gothic art, are thedefining characteristics of a Spi town. Inthe 13th century Hungarian King Bela IVinvited Germanic-Saxon craftsmen and mining experts to settle this area (which had beendepopulated by wars) and to protect againstfurther invasion. What developed was an administrative area with a distinct GermanoSlavic style architecture with elaborate rooflineornamentation evident in all the towns. Alsolook for landmarks like the Church of St Jamesin Levoa. The regions most arresting sight isthe stoic ruin of Spi castle.Not all the regions beauty is manmadethough. Steep waterfall-filled ravines call outto be climbed at Slovensk raj National Parkand you can float through the 500m-highcliffs of Dunajec river gorge in Pieniny National Park.Though rich in history, the Spi regionhas pockets of abject poverty and some ofthe areas large Roma population lives inshanty-town settlements in below-standardconditions.

Evanjelick kostol; %452 2242; admission 30Sk; h10amnoon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat May-Sep), built without a nail

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fortress of a 20th-century church. Inside isImre Thklys mausoleum. Next door is theplastered old Wooden Evangelical church (Dreven

Orientation & Information

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Buses wind their way to and from Levoa(117Sk, 2 hours, two daily), Bardejov (98Sk,1 hours, eight daily), and Poprad (134Sk,2 hours, four daily). Buses also travel toUzhhorod in the Ukraine (140Sk, 2 hours)at least once daily (twice from Tuesday toSunday) and to Nowy Targ in Poland (180Sk,four hours) on Thursday and Saturday. Abus goes from Koice to Miskolc (120Sk, twohours) in Hungary on Wednesday, Fridayand Saturday. For longer distances the trainis usually best, having comparable prices andshorter connection times.

Transport tickets (one zone 12Sk) are good forbuses and trams in most of the city centre; buythem from newsstands and public transportkiosks, then validate on board. Bus 23, whichruns between the airport and the train station,requires a two-zone ticket (19Sk).

Poprad

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Getting Around

Toporcerova & Hviezdoslavova; admission 30Sk; h10amnoon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat May-Sep) is a pseudo-Moorish

Imre Thkly was a contemporary of FerencRkczi who, like him, revolted against theHapsburg takeover of Hungary and died inexile in Turkey. Things have slowed since andthe relative quiet is part of the attraction.

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Koice International Airport (KSC; %622 1093; www.airportkosice.sk) is about 6km southeast of thecentre. Sky Europe (%reservations 02-485 04850; www.skyeurope.com) has two or three daily flights toand from Bratislava (one hour) that can costas little as 500Sk one way (with tax), if youbook ahead. Czech Airlines (SA; %678 2490; www.czechairlines.com) has three daily flights to andfrom Prague. For more on getting to Koicefrom beyond the Czech & Slovak Republics,see p453.

hours) and three to Krakw in Poland (844Sk,6 hours).

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original town walls linger, including the lowergate (nin brna).The Szimary house, livedin until 1973 by a baroness, now shelters theExposition of Historical Furnishings (Expozicia bytovejkultry; %452 2906; Hlavn nm 55; adult/student 30/15Sk;h9am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun May-Aug, 8am-noon & 1-4pmMon-Fri Sep-Apr). At the southern corner of the

old town, along Priekopa, are fragments ofa reconstructed 14th-century town wall andbastion.

Festivals & EventsOn the second weekend of July, the EuropeanFolk Craft Market (Eurpske udov remeslo; www.kezmarok.net) attracts artisans from across the country. Theres oodles of fine craft work, livemusic, food, drink and general merriment toenjoy.The Kemarok Information Agency has a listof private rooms (250Sk per person) for rent,some of which are also posted on its website.There are no fewer than six cukrre (pastrycafs) serving cakes and ice cream in the pedestrian area.Penzin Max (%452 6324; www.maxpenzion.kezmarok.net; Star trh 9; r per person 550Sk; p) Many of theextremely large rooms have three or fourbeds. Somebody here loved upholstery: theresheavy-duty multicoloured fabric on all thefurniture.Penzin & Retaurcia U Jakuba (%452 6314;www.penzionujakuba.sk; Star trh 39; d 880-1190Sk) Anauthentic, folksy Slovakness pervades thisguesthouse and restaurant. Take a seat at acommunal wooden bench near the open fireand be waited on by servers in area folk dress.(Rooms upstairs are more simply outfitted inpine.) Remember to call a day ahead if youwant a whole roast pig.Pizza Classica (%452 3693; cnr Hviezdoslavova &Hlavn nm; pizzas 90-170Sk) The cellar dining roomis kind of small, but in summer they alsoserve their pizzas around the corner on themain square (see waiter run). The bryndzov(sheeps cheese) pizza with bacon is an interesting take on a traditional fave.

Getting There & AwayArea buses are faster and more plentiful thantrains at similar cost. Buses run hourly to andfrom Poprad (22Sk, 30 minutes) and every1 hours to and from Tatransk Lomnica(22Sk, 30 minutes). From Monday to Friday,

there are three buses a day to erven Kltor(58Sk, 1 hours) and four to and from Levoa(40Sk, 50 minutes). Unless you take the oneweekday bus from Koice (2 hours, 138Sk)at 2.55pm, to get here you have to switch atPoprad.

PIENINY NATIONAL PARK%052

The main reason people come to the tiny,21-sq-km Pieniny National Park (Pieninsknrodn park; Pienap), is for a chance to floaton a raft through Dunajec gorge. The park wascreated in 1967, in combination with a similarpark near Szczawnica in Poland to protectthe 9km gorge near the village of ervenKltor and its eponymous monastery. A bitfurther downstream, Lesnica is the terminusfor rafting trips in Slovakia. Past 500m-tallcliffs, the gentle waters of the Dunajec carrytourists in a plt (shallow, flat-bottomed woodrafts), complete with a pole-wielding, costumed guide.A small Information Centre (%482 2122; www.pieniny.sk; h9am-5pm May-Oct) is about 2km westof the monastery. CK Pieniny Klub (%439 7303;www.sl.sinet.sk/pieniny; Lesnica 62,erven Kltor) travelagency books accommodation and hires outguides. Pick up VKs 1:25,000 PieninskNrodn Park map (sheet No 7) for detailedexploring on foot.

Sights & ActivitiesAt the mouth of the gorge is the fortified RedMonastery (erven Kltor; %482 2955; adult/student50/25Sk; h9am-5pm May-Oct). Built in the 14thcentury, its now used as a park administrativecentre and museum with a statuary collection,folk crafts and frescoes. The park in front ofit is one of the launch sites for river float trips(adult/student 250/100Sk; hMay-Oct), the other is1km upriver, west of the village. A raft maywait until it has as many passengers as possible (capacity 12) before setting out. Dont beexpecting white-water thrills the Dunajecriver is a rather sedate 1 hour experience.Theres an interesting riverside trail from themonastery (4km to Lesnica), which you mightopt for instead.From the downriver terminus near Lesnica(the water landing is 1km north of the village)you can hike back to erven Kltor alongthe riverside trail through the gorge in a littleover an hour. Or you can walk to Chata Pieniny (opposite) in Lesnica; it rents out bicycles


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RAFTING IN POLANDThe Dunajec river divides Slovakia and Poland, though once on the river its something like aninternational free-for-all. The Poles offer much longer trips, including a two-day, 50km voyagefrom Katy to Krocienko. Depending on your stamina and visa status, it may be worthwhile crossing over into Poland to do your rafting from there. Theres a pedestrian-only border crossing(h9am-9pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar) from Lesnica to the Polish town of Szczawnica. From therefrequent daily buses go to Nowy Targ (38km) where you switch to a bus going to the main rafting centre at Katy. By car, you can cross the SlovakPolish border at Lys nad Dunajcom (6kmwest of erven Kltor).

one way (100Sk per day) for the riverside trail.Ride back to the monastery where you returnthe bikes. The lodge also runs a shuttle bus toerven Kltor (50Sk, 20km by road).

Festivals & EventsBrightly attired dancers perform at the annualZamaguria Folk Festival (Zamagursk folklrnyslvnosti) near the monastery in the middle ofJune. Each September the International PieninyCanoe Slalom (Medzinrodn pieninsk slalom)is held on the river here.

Sleeping & EatingCK Pieniny Klub travel agency handles privaterooms (some are posted on their website) forabout 250Sk per person. Also look for privatesigns on the main road in erven Kltor.Food stalls stand between the monastery andthe river launch.Chata Pieniny (%439 7530; www.chatapieniny.sk; Lesnica; dm 280Sk) Cheap and cheerful Chata Pieninyis an old log lodge with two- to six-bed roomsat the raft terminus. Theres a restaurant,minimarket and bike rental.Dunajec Recreational (Rekrean zariadenie; %439

Getting There & AwayGetting here is a challenge unless you havea car. Buses run to erven Kltor fromKemarok (58Sk, 1 hours, three daily) andto and from Poprad (89Sk, 1 hours, threedaily Monday to Saturday, one Sunday). FromKoice (152Sk, 3 hours) theres one direct afternoon bus, otherwise you have to change inStar ubova (40Sk, 35 minutes, six daily).

STAR UBOVA%052 / pop 16,200

Skip the nondescript town; head to the castleoverlooking the Poprad river, and the skanzen below. From the adjacent bus and trainstations, walk up to the main road and turnleft, follow the 2.5km red-marked trail to thecastle. If you turn east instead and go 1km,youll get to Nm sv Mikula, the main townsquare, with the City Information Centre (%4321713; www.staralubovna.sk; Nm sv Mikula 12; h911.30am & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) and a couple

of banks with ATMs.

Sights & ActivitiesStriking ubova castle (ubovniansky hrad; %432

7105; www.dunajec.sk; s/d without bathroom 300/600Sk; 2persons in hut 580Sk, per person/tent 60/50Sk; p) One

2030; adult/student 60/30Sk; h 9am-6pm May-Sep,10am-3pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) lies half in ruins, half

kilometre south of the monastery, towardVek Lipnk, this complex has five huts forrent (sleeping six), a restaurant, a bar, bikerental, a camping ground and sports courts.Penzin Holica (%439 7114; Lesnica 156; r/apt700/1000Sk) Spotless, if bare, rooms here areworth seeking out, 1km south of the village.This penzin and small restaurant are quitepopular with groups.Hotel Pltnk (%482 2525; erven Kltor; www.hotelpltnik.sk; s/d 720/870Sk, per person/tent 60/50Sk; p) Thenot-so-youthful hotel has small rooms withwood-panelled ceilings and not much else. Itruns a camping ground in the big riverfrontfield adjacent.

in reconstruction, but the mix of Gothic,baroque and Renaissance styles makes foran interesting self-guided tour. The skyclad location of its top tower (think lots ofclimbing) provides views across the valleyto the Spiska Magura mountains, as well asthe Roma shanty town on the edge of Starubova. Different parts of the palace contain exhibits on the castle history, weaponryand period furniture. Every June, a medievalencampment gathers below the gates to reenact an ancient battle; just one of manysummer weekend festivals.The few plastered wooden houses anda church in the skanzen (adult/student 30/15Sk;

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESCage of Shame.............................5 B2Church of St James.......................6 B2Church Ticket Office..................(see 8)Master Pavol House..................... 7 C2Municipal Weights House.............8 B2Spi Museum...........................(see 10)Thurzov House............................ 9 C2Town Hall.................................. 10 B2

SLEEPINGHotel Satel..................................11 B2Oza..........................................12 A3Penzin U Leva.......................... 13 B2

To Bus & TrainStations (1km)

INFORMATIONLevonet Internet Caf...................1Post Office...................................2Tourist Information Office............3Veobecn verov banka............4

B3B2B2B3

EATINGPizzeria.......................................14 B1Retaurcia u Janusa...................15 B2Vegetarin..................................16 B1TRANSPORTBus Stop.................................... 17 D2

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artefacts in wood-panelled chambers. Southof the town hall is the Cage of Shame (Klietkahanby), where naughty boys and girls werepublicly punished.

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(%451 2449; www.snm.sk; adult/student 50/20Sk; h9am5pm), which displays folk dresses and town

16

The Gothic spindles-and-spires Church of StJames (Chrm sv Jakuba; %451 2347; www.chramsvjakuba

religious art and rare furnishings, though everyone comes to see the splendid three-sidedwooden altar (1517) created by Master Pavol ofLevoa. At more than 18m high, and 6m wide,its said to be the worlds largest. Exquisite 3-Drepresentations of the Last Supper and theMadonna and Child decorate the structure.(Think Mary looks familiar? Her face appearson the 100Sk banknote.) The church ticket office(kasa; h11am-5pm) is inside the Municipal WeightsHouse (Budova mestskch vh). Off season, ifthere are fewer than five people at a tour time,the keeper may not open up.The originally Gothic town hall (radnica)and tower got a Renaissance face-lift in 1551,creating what is now one of Levoas mostbeautiful buildings. Inside is the Spi museum

14

Uhon

Sights.sk; adult/student 50/30Sk; htours 11.30am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm& 4pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun, 11am-5pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue-SatJul & Aug) is basically a museum of medieval

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Like other Spi towns, Levoa was settledand enriched by a wave of Saxon artisans inthe 13th century. It prospered from trade ingold and woodcarving for centuries. Muchof its present Renaissance personality comesfrom a building boom after a huge fire in the16th century.

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Medieval walls stand stolid and defensive,protecting the age-old centre from onslaught.Levoa is one of the few Slovak cities to haveits ancient old town defences largely intact.The pride of Slovakias religious art collection,an 18m-high altar carved by renowned artistMaster Pavol of Levoa, resides within thecentre squares Church of St James. Surrounding the church is a panoply of ancient houseswith mostly Renaissance faades.

.levoca.sk; Nm Majstra Pavla 58; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pm Sun May-Oct; 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) Askfor the free photocopied map staff hide under the counter.Veobecn verov banka (VB; Nm Majstra Pavla 28)

00

LEVOA

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%053 / pop 14,400

80Sk; h10am-midnight)

Post office (Nm Majstra Pavla 42)Tourist Information Office (%451 3763; www

Dl

LEVOA

Levonet Internet Caf (Nm Majstra Pavla 38; per hr

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Up to eight town buses travel to and from thecastle and the train and bus stations (12Sk)Monday to Friday, but services are rare onweekends.

Oza (%451 4511; www.ubytovanieoaza.sk; Nov 65; perperson 300Sk) The two-bed rooms with sharedbathrooms, and the four-bed en-suite roomswith kitchen, are just what the budget doctorordered. Theres a big garden with a lawn,vegetable garden a chicken coup. The superpersonable owner speaks several languages.Penzin U Leva (%450 2311; www.uleva.sk; NmMajstra Pavla 24; s/d/apt 1100/2000/2400Sk; p) A newelevator is a welcome addition to these twotown-square buildings turned modern,reader-recommended lodging. Apartmentshave kitchens.

On the first weekend in July up to a quarter ofa million pilgrims converge on the Church ofMarinska hora for a Marian Pilgrimage (Marian p). Mass is celebrated hourly from 6pm

to

Getting Around

Information

Sleeping & Eating

Festivals & Events

Ba

Buses connect with erven Kltor (40Sk, 35minutes, six daily), Bardejov (78Sk, 1 hours,seven daily) and Kemarok (44Sk, 45 minutes). There are up to 11 trains a day betweenStar ubova, Kemarok (36Sk, 50 minutes)and Plave (24Sk, 20 minutes), where youchange trains if youre bound for Poland. Fivedaily buses run to and from Koice (143Sk,2 hours).

Levoa is on the E50 motorway between Poprad(28km) and Koice (94km). The centre is 1kmnorth of the train and bus stations. Most busesalso stop at Nm tefana Kluberta, a few blockseast of the main square, Nm Majstra Pavla.

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Orientation

on Saturday, but the one to wait for is at 10amon Sunday.

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Ubytovac hostinec Peters (%432 4891; Pod hradom;s/d 200/400Sk; p) If youre stuck on the way upto the castle, this place has basic rooms anda restaurant.Sala U Franka (%436 9292; Popradsk 34; mains100-150Sk) This sprawling, rustic eatery lies 3kmsouth on the road toward Poprad. It serves afresh variety of dumpling dishes topped withbrynda (sheeps cheese) and bacon, cabbage,onions or kielbasa. Occasional folk nightsinclude live bands.

The pedestrian centre is chock-a-blockwith Gothic and Renaissance eye candy. Thefinest is the Thurzov house (Thurzov dom;1532) at No 7, with its characteristic frenetic Spi Renaissance roofline. At No 20,Master Pavol House (Dom Majstra Pavla; %451 3496;adult/student 40/20Sk; h9am-5pm), run by the Spimuseum, is devoted to the towns famoussculptor son.From town you can see the Church of Marinska hora, on a hill 2km north.

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Sleeping & Eating

Levoas fortunes collapsed in the 17thcentury after an area anti-Hapsburg uprisingfailed. Again on the temporarily losing side,a Slovak army garrison from Levoa joinedin the short-lived, antifascist Slovak NationalUprising in 1944. German troops occupiedthe town until its liberation by the Soviets inFebruary 1945.

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of the styles typical of the Spisk Maguraregion Slovak, Polish, Rusyn and German.


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h9am-6pm May-Sep, 10am-3pm Oct) reflect a blend


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Hotel Satel (%451 2943; www.hotelsatel.com; NmMajstra Pavla 55; s/d 1765/2730Sk; p) Float into theswish luxury of the towns top hotel. You cantell the building dates back to the 14th centuryby the rooms arched, vaulted ceilings andthe atrium arcade. However, its amenitiesare modern, and it has wi-fi and a massageservice.Vegetarin (%451 4576; Uhon 137; mains 45-90Sk;h10am-3.15pm Mon-Fri) Wholesome smells anda no-fuss menu make this basic veggie haunta hit. Casseroles and tofu dishes are on therotating list of dishes.Retaurcia u Janusa (%451 4592; Kltorsk 22;mains 70-120Sk) Choose from all the fried porkfavourites at the locals pick for Slovak food.Tables fill up quick at lunchtime.Pizzeria (%0905396528; Vetrov 4; pizzas 100-160Sk)For such a smoky, nameless place, they reallydont serve bad pizza. Upstairs, two apartments with kitchens (1000Sk) and one smallsingle room (500Sk) are for rent.

Getting There & AwayBuses travel to Spisk Podhradie (22Sk, 20minutes, 11 daily) and to Poprad (40Sk, 30minutes, 21 daily), which has onward trainconnections on the main BratislavaKoiceline. Two to five buses a day wend their wayto and from Koice (128Sk, two hours). Busesalso run to Spisk Nov Ves (18Sk, 20 minutes, every half hour), which is not a greattown, but it is on the main train line (and is agateway to Slovensk raj National Park).

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must have been for ancient enemies. Sittinghilltop 200m above a broad valley floor the 4hectare spread still inspires awe today andits in ruins.In the 12th century a settlement, SpiskPodhradie, appeared below the neighbouringcastle. It developed into an artisans town inthe 13th century when, to the west, SpiskKapitula (Spi Chapter) developed. The villageitself isnt the attraction, its the Unesco-listedcastle thats one of Slovakias true wonders.

Orientation & InformationSpisk Podhradie is 15km east of Levoa, offthe main E50 highway between Koice andPoprad. Most long-distance buses stop in themain square, Mariansk nm, where theresa post office, an ATM and a bus stop. TheSpisk Podhradie train station is 1.5km eastof the centre, below the path to the castle.Spisk Kapitula is on another ridge 1kmwest of Spisk Podhradie, and has its ownbus stop. For a day trip arrive early and giveyourself at least 4 hours (including walkingtime) to see both the castle and Spisk Kapitula. You may be able to leave your bags atthe train station (ask the stationmaster very,very nicely).

Sights & ActivitiesSPI CASTLE

You may think youre experiencing dj vuthe first time you catch a glimpse of the photogenic ruins of Spi castle (Spisk hrad; %454

SPISK PODHRADIE & AROUND

1336; www.spisskyhrad.com in Slovak; adult/student 100/60Sk;h9am-6pm May-Oct, by appointment Nov-Apr); the cas-

From far down the motorway you catchglimpses of eerie outlines and stony wallscrowning a ridge. Can it really be that big?you think. Once youre upon it you realisehow truly daunting the sight of Spi castle

tle appears on so much Slovak promotionalmaterial (showing the field below it alternatelycovered in snow or flowers). One of the biggest castles in Central Europe, it has been aUnesco World Heritage site since 1993.

Why, hes from Levoa, of course, just ask anyone. But the nations premier medieval artist is abit more elusive than that. He was a sculptor and carver who did amazing Gothic things withwood during the 15th and early 16th centuries OK weve got that. And he had a woodcarvingworkshop in Levoa, where he married a wealthy woman and sat on the town council. But wherewas he born? When did he die? No one can say for sure. A damaging fire swept through Levoain 1550, taking with it most of the towns archives and Mr Pavols last name.What else do we know? Well, he worked an awful lot. To this day there are intricate altars andengaging statues he and his students carved scattered across the Spi region. Rumour has it thatone of the 12 apostles in the Last Supper on the St James altar in Levoa is really a self-portrait.Maybe you can figure out who he is.

References to the castle first appear in a1209 chronicle, and the central residentialtower, at the highest elevation, is thoughtto date from that time (there are great viewsfrom the top). Defenders repulsed the Tatarsin 1241, and the rulers and noble family owners kept adding on to the place during the 15thand 16th centuries. By 1780 when a fire hit,much of the military threat had abated and itwas largely deserted. Few structures remainwhole today, but theres a cistern, a chapeland a rectangular Romanesque palace, whichholds the museum. Descend to the dungeon tosee the meaty bits its incredible the torturedevices the human mind can think up.Throughout summer the castle hosts medieval festivals, which consist mainly of musicand mock battles. To get to the castle, crossthe tracks near the train station and follow theyellow markers up the steep trail. By car, theeasiest approach to the castle is via the mainhighway from the east (Preov) side.

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and then settle into a simple wood-panelledroom for the night. This log-cabin complex ison the road to Spisk Podhradie, 3km westof Spi Chapter.Kolping House (%0905790097; www.hotelkolping.sk; Spisk Kapitula 15; s/d 1100/1600Sk; pi) A romantic little outfit actually inside the walls ofSpisk Kapitula. Antiques and reproductionsfill the rooms and restaurant.

Getting There & AwayA railway line connects Spisk Podhradieto Spisk Vlachy (12Sk, 10 minutes, eightdaily), a station on the main line from Popradto Koice. Relatively frequent buses run toand from Levoa (22Sk, 20 minutes, 11 daily)and Poprad (55Sk, 50 minutes, eight daily). Ifyoure travelling to Spiska Kapitula by busfrom Levoa, get off before the main town atSpisk Podhradie, Kapitula.

SPISK NOV VES%053 / pop 39,200

SPISK KAPITULA

Another national treasure is a short distanceaway. The partially active Spisk Kapitula(Spi Chapter) is an ecclesiastical complex builtin the 13th century, completely encircled by a16th-century wall. Charming Gothic housesline the single street running between the twomedieval gates. Buy tickets and pick up a guidefrom the Information Office (%0907388411; adult/student 20/10Sk; h11.15am-2.45pm). At the upperend is the magnificent Romanesque St Martins Cathedral (Katedrl sv Martin; 1273) withtwin towers and an ancient Gothic sanctuary.Inside are several trifold painted Gothic altarsfrom the 15th century that are impressive. Oneither side of the cathedral are the seminary(seminra) and the Renaissance bishops palace(biskupsk palc; 1652).

Sleeping & EatingPenzin Podzmok (%454 1755; www.penzionpodzamok.sk; Podzmkov 28, Spisk Podhradie; s/d without bathroom300/650Sk; ps) Three family houses cobbled

together make a 42-bed guesthouse (mealsavailable) with a unobstructed castle viewfrom the garden. Its at the end of the streeteast of the bridge, between Mariansk nmand the train station.Spisky Sala (%454 1202; www.spisskysalas.sk;Levosk cesta 11; s/d 420/800Sk; p) What rustic fun!Dig into lamb stew at the folksy restaurant(or have grilled chicken by the outdoor fire)

You may have to stop at this unfortunate townon the Hornd river before going to nearbySlovensk raj National Park; there are fewmarkets within the parks boundaries andto get to most of the park villages requiresa transport change here. No need to lingerthough.The bus and train stations are northwestof the centre; walk south on Odborrov andturn left on Dulianska, which morphs intothe main square Radnin nm, bounded byLetn and Zimn (Summer and Winter).Theres an ATM at the train station and atbanks on the main square. Help at the TouristInformation Centre (Map p421;%442 8292; Letn 49;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat Jun-Sep, 8am4.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) is hit or miss. Connect tothe wider world at Internet Klub (Map p421;%4414402; Letn 4; per hr 50Sk; h9am-9pm).

Opposite the bus station is a massive Billasupermarket (Map p421), which is the bestthing about the place. If youre waiting forthe tourist office to open after a break, youcould eat at Caf Nostalgia (Map p421; Letn 49; mains95-250Sk). The 50s memorabilia goes with thenames of the dishes (like James Dean chickensalad).Spisk Nov Ves lies on a main line servedby 11 daily express trains between Bratislava(450Sk, 5 hours) and Koice (104Sk, onehour), with a stop at Poprad (56Sk, 20 minutes). Theres a frequent bus service to and

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TRANSPORTBus Station........................................16 F1

SpiskNov Ves

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SLEEPINGAutocamp Podlesok............................6 C1Autocamping Tatran.......................... 7 D1Horsk Hotel Geravy.......................... 8 C4

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESDobinsk Ice Cave............................ 4 A4Hotel Mlynky..................................... 5 D4

Kraova hora(1072m)

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INFORMATIONInternet Klub.......................................1 F1Mountain Rescue Service....................2 E2Tourist Information Centre..................3 F1

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Slovensk RajNational Park

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Before you go trekking buy VKs 1:25,000Slovensk raj hiking map (No 4), available atmany tourist offices and bookshops countrywide. This can be complemented by the 40walks found in The Slovak Paradise (No 2)book, part of the Knapsacked Travel series.For the best trail and weather information,and help in booking a chata along the way,contact the parks Mountain Rescue Service (Horsksluba; %053-449 1182; ingov; h8am-6pm). Theresa small Tourist information Office (%053-429 9854;

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Slovensk raj National Park starts just 9kmsouth of Poprad. Most public transport access to the park is through Spisk NovVes, which is 23km southeast of Poprad, atthe eastern end of the Low Tatras. The maintrailhead villages on the northern edge of thenational park are ingov, 5km west of SpiskNov Ves, and Podlesok, 2km southwest ofHrabuice. There are lodgings in park villages but for full town services, youll haveto go into Spisk Nov Ves or Hrabuice.Dedinky, at the south end of the park, is aregular lakeside village with a pub, potraviny(supermarket) and houses.

The 326km of trails through the parks rugged gorges include some fun and challenging sections equipped with technical aids(ladders, chain handrails, and metal steps).These stretches are one way (marked witharrows on maps), and slippery when wet, soplan ahead. Note that fines of up to 5000Skare payable on the spot for going the wrongway, littering, lighting a fire or picking plantswithin the park.The shortest hike that includes a one-wayroklina (gorge) ascent is the one-hour Zejmarsk gorge hike on the blue trail. It starts at BieleVody (25 minutes northeast of Dedinky onthe red trail). To get back, follow the greentrail down to Dedinky (40 minutes), or theresa chairlift (adult/child 30/15Sk; 9am-5pm) betweenGeravy and Dedinky that, if its working, goeson the hour.From ingov a yellow trail heads to theever-popular lookout point, Tomovsk vhad(667m), and on to Letanovsk mlyn and theHornd river. From here, head west again alongthe Hornd to Kltorsk gorge, south up a oneway technically aided section to Kltoriskochata, where theres a restaurant, small cabins and a great meadow for picnics. Followthe green trail back along the ridge towardsingov. Allow at least six hours for the circuit,lunch at Kltorisko chata included. To hikefrom ingov to Dedinky takes about eighthours; head west to Biely potok and followthe green trail by the stream to the photogeniclake at Klauzy, continuing on a ridge trail thateventually leads down to Dedinky.From Podlesok an excellent days hikeheads up the Such Bel gorge (with severalsteep ladders, the tallest 30m). At the top of

Tomovsk

Orientation

HIKING

EATINGBilla supermarket...............................14 F1Caf Nostalgia.................................(see 3)Retaurcia Lesnica...........................15 E2

E1C2E1C4C1Hotel Flora..........................................9Kltorisko chata..............................10Park Hotel.........................................11Penzin Pastiera.............................12Ran u Trapera.................................13

To Koice(via railway;60km)

3

Most campgrounds and hotels have bike rentals, including the Hotel Flora and Park Hotelin ingov, and skis are available for rent at thebase of the hill at Dedinky. Mlynky, 3km eastof Dedinky, is the areas ski central with fiveT-bar lifts. Equipment rental (about 250Sk aday) is available from the Hotel Mlynky (%053449 3523; www.hotelmlynky.sk; Mlynky-Biele Vody 252).

1

Sights & Activities

Rumbling waterfalls, steep gorges, sheer rockfaces, thick forests and hilltop meadows: Slovensk raj (Slovak paradise; www.slovenskyraj.sk; admission20Sk) is a national park for the passionatelyoutdoorsy. The park is 90% covered in densepine and deciduous forest, and has severalrare species found only within its borders,including 17 butterfly types and 20 wildflowervarieties. Easier trails exist, but the one-wayladder- and chain-assist ascents are the mostdramatic. You cling to a metal rung headedstraight up a precipice while an icy waterfallsplashes and sprays a metre away. And thatsafter youve scrambled horizontally acrossa log ladder to cross the same stream downbelow. Pure exhilaration. Poprad is the gateway to Slovensk raj National Park as well asthe Tatras.

14

SLOVENSK RAJ NATIONAL PARK

websites include www.slovenskyraj.sk andwww.slovenskyraj.org.

SpiskNov Ves

Sep-Jun) in Hrabuice, not far from the AsconaCaf (Hlavn 99; per hr 25Sk; h1pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to3am Fri & Sat), which has internet. Helpful park

S P I R E G I O N S l o v e n s k R a j N a t i o n a l Pa r k 421

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from Levoa (18Sk, 20 minutes, every halfhour). For onward destinations near Slovensk raj National Park (see p422) connectionsarent the best (you may want to considerspringing for a car in Koice).

lonelyplanet.com

4 km

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420 S P I R E G I O N S l o v e n s k R a j N a t i o n a l Pa r k

422 S P I R E G I O N S l o v e n s k R a j N a t i o n a l Pa r k

the gorge its possible to head east and windyour way down to Kltorisko and the Horndriver, before following the river west back toPodlesok (or heading on to ingov). Allow atleast six hours for a round-trip.DOBINSK ICE CAVE

The unusual Dobinsk Ice Cave (Dobinsk adovJaskya; % 058-788 1470; adult/student 150/130Sk;h9am-4pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, 9.30am-2pm Tue-Sun May& Sep) is 6km west of Dedinky and 12km south

Retaurcia Lesnica (%053-449 1518; PenzinLesnica; mains 90-200Sk) Residents favourite; kids like theice-cream sundaes.AROUND PODLESOK

May to September there are food stands opennear the Podlesok trailhead parking lot and asmall but full-service restaurant.Autocamp Podlesok (%053-429 9165; [email protected]; Podlesok; per person/tent 60/60Sk, huts per person230Sk; p) Big, big, big. Pitch a tent in the field


Jaskya (420Sk, 5 hours), Dedinky (420Sk,five hours 50 minutes) and Mlynky (420Sk, sixhours). In reverse it leaves Koice at 2.50pmstopping at Dedinky (146Sk, two hours)etc. Otherwise, to get between Dedinky andKoice requires a switch at Margecany (84Sk,1 hours, six daily).

Getting AroundGetting around is not so easy really, unlessyou hike or drive. One bus a day goes eachway between ingov and Hrabuice (10Sk, 45minutes), Hrabuice and Dedinky (18Sk, onehour), and Dedinky and ingov (25Sk, twohours).

or choose from the A-frames, small huts orcottages with two to 12 beds and a bathroom. The camping ground is a 2km walkfrom Hrabuice; there are two restaurants onsite.Ran u Trapera (%0911987231; www.rancutrapera.skg.sk; Podlesok 16; r per person 450Sk) Stay the night ina large log cabin dream and take a horsebackride in the morning. This ranch B&B evenhas front porch rocking chairs. Its about 2kmsouth of Podlesok (on the summer-only roadtoward Dedinky).

Sleeping & Eating

AROUND DEDINKY

Free camping is not allowed within the park.Surrounding towns such as Hrabuice andSmiany have private and pension rooms forrent (many posted at www.slovenskyraj.sk);those below are closer to the trails. Almost allarea restaurants are inside lodgings.

The pub and the potraviny (supermarket), thetwo staples of any village, are on the northside of the lake, near where the chairlift terminates.Penzin Pastiera (%058-798 1175; Dedinky 42;s/d 300/600Sk; p) A small wooden guesthousewaits at the edge of the village, near the forest and green trailhead. There are only fiverooms, so book ahead.Horsk Hotel Geravy (%058-798 1179; www.geravy.com; Geravy; dm 250Sk) At the top of the chairliftabove Dedinky sits this mountain hotel withpub and picnic tables. Bunkroom accommodation is basic but the meadow views areunbeatable. Full board available.

Boat along the river Styx, traipse througha fairytale castle and admire an aragoniteflower. Do all this and more, among the fanciful underworld formations of the Slovak Karst(Slovensk kras).This region of limestone canyons and caveslies at the eastern end of Slovensk rudohorie(the Slovak Ore Mountains), a major rangethat reaches the border with Hungary. Itsmost spectacular landscapes are within the440-sq-km Slovak Karst National Park, promoted to a Unesco World Heritage site in1995. Five of the subterranean domains areopen to the public.Above ground the area has the dramaticKrsna Hrka Castle and ornate Betliar Palace. In this region all roads lead to the administrative capital, Roava, and transportis infrequent. This makes it hard to see morethan one sight in a day without a car.


ROAVA

A few buses run directly from Poprad toDedinky (53Sk 1 hours, three daily) and toHrabuice (25Sk, 40 minutes, five on weekdays, one on weekends). Other than thatSpiska Nov Ves is the main transfer pointto Slovensk raj. From there two buses (notrains) a day run to Hrabuice (22Sk, 35 minutes), two to ingov (10Sk, 12 minutes) andthree to Dedinky (53Sk, one hour). Few busesare scheduled midday.The daily Horehoronec fast train from Bratislava (6.16am), through Bansk Bystrica(10.04am), stops at the Dobinsk adov

pop 19,260

Autocamping Tatran (%053-429 7105; www.durkovec.sk; per person/tent/dm 80/60/220Sk, 2-person hut withoutbathroom 190Sk; ps) Tents crowd together in

the pasture surrounded by tiny huts, a bigdormitory and multiroom rental houses withsatellite TV (2500Sk). Take a 2.2km trampwest of the ingov bus stop.Hotel Flora (%053-449 1129; www.hotelfloraslovenskyraj.sk; s/d 750/1200Sk; ps) The lobby and worthwhile restaurant are mountain-fabulous, witha stone fireplace, leather chairs and big windows. Pity the rooms didnt come along forthe renovation ride.Park Hotel (%053-442 2022; www.parkhotel.vitex.sk/; s/d 950/1200Sk; p) All rooms have a balconyor a terrace. Pool tables, volleyball and tenniscourts, and a sauna up the fun factor. Nicelyisolated 1.2km before ingov village.Also in the area:Kltorisko chata (%053-449 3307; cabins perperson 250Sk) Small mountain huts and restaurant locatedmidtrail. Book ahead.

SLOVAK KARST%058

Scattered outside the regions central city aresome interesting monuments and naturalwonders. Roava is a good base for exploring the Slovak Karst National Park, as well asthe areas castles.This former mining town, 20km northof the border, has an understandably bigHungarian-speaking minority. It was the regions main gold, silver and iron ore centreuntil the 17th century. Nm Bankov, thetown centre, is 2.5km north of the train station via afarkova and the bus station is one

S L O VA K K A R S T R o a v a 423

block southeast of the centre, on Zelenhostromu. The staff at the Tourist InformationCentre (%732 8101; www.roznava.sk; Nm Bankov 32;h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) willingly helpyou sort out the bus schedules to variouscaves.Stuck in town? Nm Bankovs buildingsinclude the 1654 watch tower (stran vea; adult/student 30/15Sk; h10-11.30am & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am3.30pm Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun Jun-Aug; at 10am, 11am, 1pm& 2pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) and the Cathedral of theAssumption of the Virgin Mary (Katedrla Nanebovzatiapanny Mrie; adult/student 30/15Sk), with a Renais-

sance altar depicting miners at work.Restaurant-Penzin Alfa (%788 0701; Nm Bankov33; r per person 600Sk) opened on a busy street corner in late 2005. It has a stonework restaurant(part Slovak, part Italian menu) and comfyrooms with pine beds. Hotel iern orol (%7328186; www.ciernyorol.sk; Nm Bankov 17; s/d 700/1100Sk;p) is the main town hotel, restaurant, beer

cellar everything. It is right next to thevisitor centre.Five fast trains a day connect Roava withKoice (118Sk, one hour), and there are morefrequent milk runs. One daily bus connectsto and from Poprad (100Sk, two hours) andthree to and from Dedinky (53Sk, one hour)in Slovensk raj.

AROUND ROAVABetliar

The attraction of this town 4km north ofRoava is grand Betliar Manor House (KatieBetliar; %798 3118; adult/student 100/50Sk; h8am4.30pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 9.30am-2pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr).

Built in the 18th century for the Andrssyfamily, its stuffed with elegant furnishings,relics collected in Africa and Asia, and a library of 20,000 books. That really was the life.A stately garden encloses the estate.The former family stables now containthe Penzin pri katel Betliar (%788 2002; www.kastielbetliar.sk; Katiena 16; s/d 600/900Sk; pi) andits first-rate restaurant serving delectableHungarian and Slovak dishes (mains 80Sk to150Sk) and desserts. Rooms arent fancy, butthey are new.There are near-hourly buses through Betliarfrom Roava (10Sk, 10 minutes).

Krsnohorsk PodhradieEight kilometres east of Roava, on a hillabove the village of Krsnohorsk Podhradie,Krsna Hrka Castle (Hrad Krsna Hrka; %732 4769;

EAST SLOVAKIA

of Podlesok (via a summer-only road). Theice in the Vek sie (Grand Hall) can be upto 20m thick, and smooth and flat enough toskate on (as demonstrated by former worldchampion Karol Divn in the 1950s). Thefrozen formations are most dazzling in May,before they start to melt (no matter the datethe ambient temperature is only a few degreesabove freezing). The cave entrance is a steep20-minute hike south from the bus stop andadjacent restaurant. Tours leave every houror less.

AROUND INGOV

EAST SLOVAKIA


424 S L O VA K K A R S T C a v e s O f T h e S l o v a k K a r s t

adult/student 100/70Sk; h8am-4.30pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, byappointment 9.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr) was built

in 1320. In the 16th century the Andrssyfamily bought it, Renaissanced it and reinforced it. Most buildings burned in 1817, butin the early part of the 20th century, CountDionysius Andrssy restored it and turned itinto a family museum.The green, shady Camping pod hradom (%058732 5457; person/tent130/40Sk) is just beyond thevillage on the way to the castle.Seven to 11 buses serve Krsnohorsk Podhradie from Roava (10Sk, 10 minutes). Theclosest train station is 1km south, at Lpovnk;slow trains (osobn vlak, Os) between Roava(12Sk, 10 minutes) and Koice (84Sk, 1hours) stop there. The castle, visible fromeverywhere, is a 3km walk east, up from thevillage.

CAVES OF THE SLOVAK KARST

Slovak Karst National Park (Nrodn park Slovensk Kras) encompasses more than 34,000hectares and contains many of the 47 knownjaskya (caves) in the region. It connects toa similar park on the Hungarian side of theborder. In 1995 Unesco put 12 of the caves inboth parks on the World Heritage list (including Dobinska Ice Cave, p422). Below are thefive in or near the park that are open to thepublic. Public transport in the district is abit rare, especially on weekends. None of thecaves are set up for the mobility-impaired.The Tourist Information Office in Roavacan help with transport details. Tours take35 to 45 minutes.Many of the delicate aragonite formationsin the Ochtinsk Cave (Ochtinsk Aragonitov Jaskya;

inside-out stalactites grow from thin limestone tubes that water passes through, leavingdeposits at the growing end. The mineralsform into white and orange twists and spikes,shapes resembling flowers and sea anemones.A tour takes about 35 minutes.Perhaps the most accessible, GombaseckCave (Gombaseck Jaskya; %788 2020; adult/student70/60Sk; h tours 9am-4pm hourly Tue-Sun Jun-Aug,10am, 11am, 2pm & 3pm Tue-Sun Apr, May, Sep & Oct) is

only 10km south of Roava. Thin, strawlike stalactites up to 3m long are what thiscave is known for, but the mineral-dyedorange walls are also striking. Overall, this

35-minute tour requires the least physical exertion of the Slovak Karst cave tours,though there are some stairs. Buses connectto Roava (13Sk, eight daily) from Tuesdayto Friday only.Domica Cave (Jaskya Domica; %788 2010; adult/student 80/40Sk, with boat trip 150/130Sk; htours 9am4pm hourly Tue-Sun Jun-Aug; 9.30am, 11am, 12.30pm& 2pm Tue-Sun Apr, May, Sep & Oct) is the biggest,

best-known and most beautiful cave, full ofcolour, and with some stalactites as thick astree trunks. Almost 2km of the 5km lengthcan be seen by boat along the undergroundriver Styx. (With a boat ride the tour takes 85minutes, without, half that.) The cave is partof a 22km-long system, most of which is inHungary (where its called Baradla). Domicais 28km south of Roava, via Pleivec. Busesdepart up to 10 times a day from Tuesday toFriday (36Sk, 45 minutes) and three timeson weekends. You can hike to Domica fromGombasek (15km) on a yellow and then ared trail via Silica.Two less visited caves are Krsnohorsk Cave(Krsnohorsk Jaskya; %788 2020; group admission 230Sk;htours by appointment), containing a mighty tallstalagmite (32.6m), and Jasov Cave (JasovskJaskya; %055-466 4165; adult/student 60/30Sk; htours9am-4pm hourly Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm Tue-Sun Apr,May, Sep & Oct), which has been open to visitors

since 1846. It bears some graffiti apparentlyleft by Hussites in the 15th century. The firstcave is 6.5km southeast and the second 40kmnortheast of Roava.Woods surround the Hotel Hrdok (%4860110; r 700-900Sk; pns), 2km before theOchtinsk cave entrance. This holiday househas tennis courts and volley ball courts, aswimming pool, bike rental and a restaurant.From Tuesday to Friday five buses (32Sk)run the 22km from Roava west of the cave.Buses drop to two on weekends.

MURN PLAIN NATIONAL PARKThirty-five kilometres west-northwest ofRoava is Murn Plain National Park (Nrodn parkMurnska planina; www.muranska-planina.net, in Slovak),a limestone massif dotted with wildflowersand meadows. Truth is, theres a reason notso many people come here. Its out of the way,difficult to get around by public transport,and does not have as many facilities as thenations other parks. Murn is the main village (and a trailhead), five buses a day arrivefrom Roava (74Sk, 1 hours).


ARI REGIONEach region of Slovakia has its own particularfolk tradition, with a distinct singing style,folk costume, dances and the like. The ariregion, of which Preov is the economic centre, has protected and perpetuated its culturemore than most. Locals even have their owndialect, derived from a shepherding lifestyle,that is mutually unintelligible to Bratislavans.Bardejov is the regions star with a Unescoquality town square, a neighbouring spa townand area wooden churches.

PREOV%051 / pop 91,700

If one of the local folk ensembles is performing, by all means go see it. Preov is a cityproud of its culture. Unlike other towns, hereyou can readily buy folk crafts and music atreasonable prices. The local museum doesan excellent job illuminating colourful localshepherd traditions. Though this is basicallyan industrial city, the historical buildings onthe main square have been nicely restored(most were heavily damaged during WWII).

HistoryArchaeologists say there was a Slav settlementhere by the late 8th century. Hungarian colonists arrived in the 11th century and in 1687,24 Protestants were executed here for theirsupport of Hungarian Imre Thkly and hisanti-Hapsburg uprising. Preov (Eperejes inHungarian), instead of joining the Czechoslovak nation, tried to proclaim itself a socialiststate (the Slovak Republic of Councils) tied toHungary. The Czechoslovak army took the cityand shooed the Hungarian troops out. Today,Preov is the third-largest city in Slovakia.

OrientationHlavn, Preovs main street (literally), is a 20minute walk north up busy Masarykova fromthe adjacent bus and train stations (or you cantake trolleybus 1 or 4 north for two stops).

InformationA couple of banks with ATMs line up alongHlavn, and both the bus and train stationshave ATMs.I-Netcaf (Nm Legionrov 1; per hr 42Sk; h8am-8pmMon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) On the upper floorof the Tesco Department Store.

A R I R E G I O N P re o v 425

Post office (Masarykova 2)Preov Information Service (PIS; %773 1113; www.presov.sk; Hlavn 67; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) Maps, books, souvenirs.

SightsThe 16th-century Rkczi Palace contains theRegional museum (Krajsk mzeum; %759 8220; Hlavn86; adult/student 30/10Sk; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sun).Seek out the ethnographic displays hidden upan interior staircase to see playful displays ofthe felt-wearing, axe-wielding, romanticisedlife of a baa (head shepherd).Assembled at the ari gallery (%772 5423;Hlavn 51; adult/student 20/10Sk; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 26pm Sun) is a collection of 20th-century Slovak

art that includes painters from the Rusynculture (p434) of east Slovakia.It was at the 17th-century town hall (radnica;Hlavn 73) that the short-lived, socialist Slovak Republic of Councils backed by theHungarian Red Army was proclaimed anation of sorts in 1919. Accessible throughthe buildings arcade is a cellar Wine Museum(Mzeum vn; %773 3108; Florinova; adult/student 20/10Sk;h8am-noon & 12:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) that

looks suspiciously like a wine shop, but thesamplings fun.Master Pavol of Levoas workshop createdsome of the sculpture in the Gothic RomanCatholic Parish church of St Nicholas (Farsky kostol sv Mikule), first remodelled in 1515.Peek inside the ornate Greek Catholic Churchof St John the Baptist (Kostol sv Jna Krstitea)to see the handsome iconostasis.Five kilometres north of Preov you canhike up to the few remaining ruins of whatwas Slovakias largest fortification, ari castle(ariisk hrad). Built in the 13th century,it lasted only until the 17th century when aPolish king burnt it down. Follow the yellow trail 1 hours from the village of Vekari.

SleepingTuristick ubytova (%772 0628; www.pis.sk/turistickaubytovna; Vajanskho 65; s/d 350/600Sk; p) Bare-bonesbasic a bed (though wed hardly call that amattress), table, and chair. There is a kitchenfor guests though.Penzin Adam (%758 1789; www.penzionadam.sk;Jarkov 16; s/d 1300/1500Sk; p) Something aboutthis penzin feels especially sunny and bright.Maybe its the superhigh ceilings, orange bedspreads and modern furniture, or golden

EAST SLOVAKIA

EAST SLOVAKIA

%488 1051; adult/student 120/100Sk; htours 9am-4pmhourly Tue-Sun Jun-Aug; 9.30am, 11am, 12.30pm & 2pm TueSun Apr, May, Sep & Oct) are 14,000 years old. The



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exterior. Or maybe its just that its so new(opened mid-2006). Top-notch staff.Penzin Ludwig (%0908254211; www.penzionludwig.sk; Poiarnick 2; s/d 1900/2200Sk; p) Sloping evesand half-timber beams add to the old-worldfeel of this elegant inn. Duck in to your room,sit down on the brocade and carved-wood settee, and connect your laptop to the internet.

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ENTERTAINMENTDuchnovi Theatre.....................18 B2Jon Zborsk Theatre............. 19 D4

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EATINGBagetria....................................12Gvinda..................................... 13Retaurcia Chevalier................. 14Tesco Department Store............ 15

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESChurch of St John the Baptist....... 4 C4Parish Church of St Nicholas.........5 B2Regional Museum........................ 6 C2ari Gallery..................................7 C3Town Hall.................................... 8 B2Wine Museum...........................(see 8)

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To Bus & TrainStations (1km);Koice (36km)

Dining downstairs is under panelled ceilingsand glittering chandeliers.

Eating & DrinkingNational law says you have to have nonsmoking sections in restaurants; guess local eateriesmust be classed as pubs because there are fewwith nonsmoking sections.

A R I R E G I O N B a r d e j o v 427

Gvinda (%0911309108; Hlavn 70; mains 80-150Sk;h11am-7pm Mon-Fri) This is one of three Indian

BARDEJOV

vegetarian self-service restaurants run byHare Krishnas in Slovakia.Retaurcia Chevalier (%758 1590; Hlavn 69; mains100-250Sk) Drink from stone goblets in a vaultedcellar and imagine Preov in the middle ages.Slovak specialities here are well executed.For fast cheap eats, stop at the Bagetriacafs that put up covered platforms on themain square. The Tesco Department Store hasa grocery.Star Mexico (%0915308285; Jarkov 63; h10ammidnight Sun-Thu, 10am-1am Fri & Sat) pub has occasionallive bands, or you can get funky at the galleryinternet caf-disco Wave (Hlavn 1; h10am-midnightMon-Thu, 10am-1am Fri, 4pm-1am Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun),with various live sets Fridays and DJs throughout the week.

It may as well be the 15th century, this old towncentre has been so enthusiastically preserved.All steep roofs and flat fronts, the GothicRenaissance burghers houses on the mainsquare seem strikingly homogeneous at first.Look closer and you notice an ethereal sgraffitodecoration or a pastel hue and plaster detail thatsets each apart get your camera ready. Unescomust have been impressed too, they put Bardejov on the World Heritage list in 2000. The quietsquare is the main drawcard today, but theresalso an excellent icon museum that sheds lighton this regions eastern-facing religion.Nearby in Bardejovsk Kpele (p429) youcan take the cure at a hotspring spa and explore an open-air village museum. The woodenchurches in the area reflect the Carpatho-Rusynheritage shared with neighbouring parts of theUkraine and Poland.

Entertainment

History

There are several folk ensembles in town,including arian (www.sarisan.sk), that play traditional songs and dances at various venues.The Duchnovi Theatre (%772 3261; www.divadload.sk;Jarkov 77) is a Rusyn minority playhouse wherethe folk ensemble Pus performs.Jon Zborsk Theatre (%772 4622; www.djz.sk; inSlovak; Nm Legionrov 6) presents classical concertsand plays from September through May.

Bardejov received its royal charter in 1376 andgrew rich on trade with Poland and Russia.In the 17th century many of the Gothic townsquare buildings were made over in Renaissance style (porticos and arcades added), andsome had rococo elements (ornamental plasterwork) tacked on in the 18th century. TheThirty Years War, an anti-Hapsburg revoltand the plague ended the towns developmentbut saved the fine centre square. None of theoriginal 80 buildings has been lost, and onlyfour houses have been added since the 1600s.Restoration is an ongoing process, so expect tosee a building under scaffolding at all times.

(Hlavn 36; sandwiches 30-75Sk; h6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8amSat & Sun), or in warm weather, at one of several

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ShoppingThe usual Ulv store is on the main square, butits better to stop at the excellent Folk Products(%773 2694; www.oliviasimports.com; Hlavn 21; h11am7pm) for handmade wood-carving, embroidery,

lacework, as well as fujary (metre-plus hornsmade out of wood) and valaky (shepherdsstaffs that resemble a decorative axe). Downthe block you can buy hand-painted icons atEkumena (%772 0477; Hlavn 1).

Getting There & AwayPreov is 36km north of Koice and 21 dailytrains (38Sk, 45 minutes) connect the two.No matter where youre coming from, youllhave to transfer in Preov for Bardejov (56Sk,1 hours, five daily). Buses with a dozen ormore departures a day connect to and fromKoice (47Sk, 35 minutes), Bardejov (58Sk, 50minutes), Svidnk (78Sk, 1 hours), Levoa(89Sk, 1 hours), Poprad (124Sk, 1 hours)and Star ubova (89Sk, 1 hours).

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OrientationRadnin nm, the towns main square, isabout 400m southwest of the bus and trainstation. The old town walls hide the centrefrom the main road between Preov and Svidnk. If walking from the stations enter throughthe gate off Slovensk at Batov.

InformationSOB (Radnin nm 7) Bank and ATM.Golem Internet Caf (Radnin nm 25; per hr 25Sk;h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 1-11pm Sat & Sun)

Post office (Dlh rad 14)Tourist Information Centre (%474 4003; www.e-bardejov.sk; Radnin nm 21; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Friyear-round, also 11.30am-3.30pm Sat & Sun May-Sep)Info, souvenirs and guide service.

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(Sarik mzeum; %472 4966; www.muzeumbardejov.sk;adult/student 40/20Sk; h8am-noon & 12.30-4pm Tue-Sun)on the square. At the Icon Exposition (Expozciaikony; Radnin nm 27) you can see more than 160

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SLEEPINGPenzin Hrady........................... 12 C2Penzin Semafor.........................13 B1EATINGBilla Supermarket........................14Cukrre u Babika....................15Maja Sendvi............................. 16Retaurcia Hubert.....................17

ments (larger rooms) are even better. All sharea communal kitchen in this family-run guesthouse recommended by our readers.Hotel Bellevue (%472 8404; www.bellevuehotel.sk;Mihalov 2503; s/d 1900/2600Sk; pnais) Asswank as Bardejov gets: stay high on the hillabove the old town, with great views fromthe glass-enclosed pool, sleep atop classicbut modern cherry-wood beds and eat at adarn good full-service restaurant. Bellevue is3km south of the centre; take bus 8 from thetrain station.Retaurcia Hubert (%0908982738; Radnin nm 4;

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TRANSPORTBus Station.................................18 D1Topa Sport.................................19 C2

suburbium; Mylnsk 6-7) has a synagogue in need of

restoration and a small Jewish cemetery.Remnants of the t

LP Slovak Rep East Slovakia 2007 5th

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Transcript of LP Slovak Rep East Slovakia 2007 5th