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COUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous
PHRASEBOOKS
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Celeste Brash Jean-Bernard Carillet
p203ArchipelagoThe Gambier
p203The Australs
p174The Marquesas
p151The Tuamotus
p143Maupiti p126
Bora Bora
p110Taha'a
Ra'iatea &
Huahinep98
p77Mo'orea p48
Tahiti
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 236Transport ........................ 246Language ........................ 253Index ................................ 265Map Legend .................... 271
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Tahitian and French are the o cial languages of French Polynesia, but Tahitian is spoken more than it is written. Although French dominates, many of those working in the tourist industry can speak some English; once you venture to the more remote and less touristy islands where the Tahitian dia-lects are spoken, it’s de nitely useful to know some French.
TAHITIANTahitian (also known as Maohi) belongs to the group of Polynesian languages that
cludes Samoan, Maori, Hawaiian, Raroton-and Tongan. There are several dialects of
an. The spread of Christianity through olynesia helped make the variety
hiti the most widespread.ounds are also found in
pronounced as fol-
Welcome. Maeva, mThank you. M uruuru.Excuse me./Sorry. E’e, aue hoNo problem./Don’t worry. Aita pe’apeYes. E, ’oia.No. Aita.Pardon? E aha?How are you? E ahaMy name is ... To’country I don’t understand. Good luck! I’m ill.
Language
PAGE
46
PAGE
235
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Tahiti & French Polynesia ........... 2
Map .................................. 415 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like ........................ 16 Month by Month ............. 19Itineraries ........................ 22Which Island? ................. 26Diving ............................... 31Travel with Children ....... 39Regions at a Glance ....... 43
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND TAHITI & FRENCH POLYNESIA
Tahiti & French Polynesia Today ............. 214
History ............................. 216Environment ................... 226Islander Life .................... 229French Polynesia in Popular Culture ............. 233
Tahiti & French Polynesia TodayCultural Renaissance Culturally, French Polynesia is rediscovering itself. In the last 20 years, the Tahitian language has been reclaimed as a subject now required in schools and as a university-level discipline. Tahitian dance is ourish-ing, tattoos have become the norm and ma’a Tahiti (traditional Tahitianifood) has been transformed into haute cuisine. Even a few pre-Europe-an Tahitian events are being resuscitated, such as the Matari’i i Ni’a in November, marking the beginning of the ‘season of abundance’ – Westerners more pessimistically call this the ‘wet season’.
Government Gymnastics hi e technically a part of France, French Polynesia is, for the most
art, self-governing. Since 2004 the government has been in turmoil as the main olitical parties battle it out and try to woo members of the assembly to i - o the balance of power. While democratic elections d id h bl t t h t th th
ation:
mass 00
MAINLANDFRANCE
FRENCHPOLYNESIA
STATE OFHAWAII
population per sq km
≈ 20 people
2
Islander Life If French Polynesia had a national slogan it might be haere maru (take ituslow), words that often fall from the lips of Tahitians to their busy Frenchand Chinese cohabitants. It’s hard not to take it slow out here. With oneroad encircling most islands, you’ll often get caught driving behind anold pick-up truck at 50km/h with no chance of passing; national holidaysseem to close up the shops and banks once every week or so; and gettingserved in a restaurant can take an eternity. This can be frustrating to any-one in a hurry, but somehow it all works out: you make it to wherever youwere going even if it does take twice as long, the bank can wait till tomor-row and your food arrives once you are really, really hungry. The Tahitianpeople know this and always seem amused by anyone who tries to break the rhythm of calm.
Family & Multiculturalism The traditional Tahitian family is an open-armed force that is the country’sbackbone. Although modern girls are increasingly less likely to stay homeand have baby after baby, an accidental pregnancy is considered more of blessing than a hindrance, and babies are passed along to another eager,
infant-loving family member. Faamu (adopted children) are not thought of as i erent from blood brothers and sisters, although the birth mother,n occasionally the father, sometimes remain a peripheral part of thehild’s life. Once a child is in a family they are in no way obligated to stay;hi ren move a out to aunties, uncles and grandparents as they wish
Thi f i i it i t t t i i i Wh
Go to www.ica.pf (Institut de la
Comminication Audiovisuelle, in French) for podcasts and
videos of every-thing cultural in
French Polynesia. Download or buy
old films, and watch music
videos, Tahitian news, clips of
Tahitian dance and much, much
more.
The Dream Tahiti: just the word conjures up centur-ies’ worth of images: hibiscus owers; svelte, bronze dancers in grass skirts; a humid breeze over turquoise sea. The islands of French Polynesia became legends the minute the rst European explorers reached their home shores with tales of a heaven on earth where the soil was fer-tile, life was simple, and sex was plentiful and guilt-free. While the lingering hype is outdated and no place can live up to being ‘paradise’, French Polynesia is still about as dreamy as reality gets. The trees are still heavy with fruit the mountains rise as ma
as blue. However, today there are freeways, Christianity has instilled more conserva-tive values and people work nine-to- ve jobs. French Polynesia has not escaped the modern world but embraced it. True, it’s not the perfect, untainted paradise of ex-plorer lore, but at least there’s a pretty fast internet connection.
Lagoon Spectacular While there are plenty of slim stretches of white-, pink- and black-sand beaches in French Polynesia, they are just pretty springboards into the real draw: the la-goons Most high islands are surrounded
Welcome to Tahiti & French Polynesia
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
213GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Huahine Archaeology Culture Diving
Ancient Village Stroll the remains of Maeva, a seaside village that was once the seat of royalty on Huahine. Explore the waterfront temples then scramble up the hillside to nd crumbling stone vestiges in the bush.
Lost in Time Slip into island time in Fare, the somniferous capital of Huahine. Fishing boats come in, shing boats go
out, women in owered clothing
buy groceries and, if you’re lucky, the cargo ship may be unloading the
Ra’iatea & Taha’a Archaeology Hiking Diving
The Big One You’ll feel an un- avoidable spiritual buzz at Marae Taputapuatea. Once a meeting place for Polynesians throughout the Paci c, this marae (traditional temple) is still one of the most important and well-preserved ancient temples of its kind.
Rare Flower The tiare apetahi is a delicate ve-petalled ower resembling a
woman’s hand that only grows on the Temahani Plateau in Ra’iatea. To see it you’ll have to make a challenging hike to the summit
Bora Bora Resorts Diving Hiking
Glamorous Life Welcome to over-the-water bungalow heaven where drinks are served with a view and pampering is on your tab. Top dining, luxury lagoon tours and sparkling white sands complete the package.
Every Shade of Blue Bora Bora’s sandy-bottom lagoon re ects the sky in so many hues it changes the de ni-tion of the word blue. There’s not much coral unless you head out to the fringing reef, but it’s as safe as a swimming pool
M
W
Mw
ybbh
th
T
M
Diving, Snorkelling & Wildlife-Watching Been searching for the world’s most intense shade of aqua? Look no further. What’s below the surface is even more spectacular: sharks, coral gardens, turtles, rays, dolphins, humpback whales, clouds of sh... Rangiroa It’s shark week! Or more like shark century. This is French Polynesia’s fauna-heavy diving capital (p ### )
Maupiti A manta ray cleaning station makes sightings likely, but human crowds are rare (p ### )
Rurutu Spot humpbacks through air-clear water or breaching near your boat (p ### )
Mo’orea Dolphins, whales, stingrays and sharks all star in a particularly stunning lagoon (p ### )
Tahiti Whale-watching trips too crowded on Mo’orea? Marine mammals pass by Tahiti too
Luxury Pampering Overwater bungalows were created then perfected in French Polynesia. Live la vie en bleu while lounging lagoon- or poolside with exotic cocktails, soaking in tropical ower– lled baths or getting your muscles soothed with hot volcanic stones. Bora Bora The world capital of overwater-bungalow bliss and a full-throttle celebrity magnet (p ### )
Taha’a Bora Bora’s quiet counterpart o ers glamour and luxe minus the hype (p ### )
Mo’orea Chic decadence can be easy to access, kid-friendly and chock-full of activities (p ### )
Tikehau Get your spa treat-ments in a remote paradise worthy of an adventure novel (p ### )
Rangiroa The Kia Ora lets you lounge near town or whisks you to a Crusoe-chic private island (p ### )
History & Archaeology Spirituality has always been paramount to Polynesian people and the historical vestiges you’ll nd in the islands are testament to this. Stone temples and Europe-worthy churches are highlights. Marae Taputapuatea, Ra’iatea Arguably the most important ancient Polynesian place of worship in the world (p ### )
Opunohu Valley, Mo’orea Tumbled remains of archery platforms, dwellings and temples wend up a jungle hill (p ### )
Cathedral & Churches, Gambier Archipelago In the 1880s, Father Laval lead islanders to build coral block churches that seat thousands (p ### and p ### )
Kamuihei & Tahakia, Nuku Hiva Villages of stone rubble shaded by grand banyan trees (p ### )
Iipona, Hiva Oa Five impressive stone tiki dominate this well-preserved site (p ### )
Gauguin Tahiti’s Gauguin Museum gives a taste of his work, but the artist’s spirit lives
If You Like
Diving When to Go There are regularly optimal diving conditions throughout the year, except when the trade wind blows, from June to August, producing choppy seas. Water temperatures range from a low of 26°C to a high of 29°C on most islands. You won’t need anything more than a thin neoprene wetsuit.
Best for Certi cation Tahiti Mo’orea Huahine Bora Bora
Island-by-Island Guide From Fakarava in the Tuamotus to Hiva Oin the Marquesas, you’ll be spoilt for choiceJust as the individual islands have their distinct personalities, so too the dive sites havtheir own hallmarks. Just take your pickAll dive sites are mapped in the destinationchapters.
Tahiti Although less charismatic than otheFrench Polynesian islands, Tahiti shouldn’b d t ith b t 20 l d
I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -692 -6
9 781741 796926
99225
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AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111
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On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
TAHITI . . . . . . . . . . . . .48PAPE’ETE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51AROUND TAHITI NUI . . . . . . 65West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 68East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71TAHITI ITI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
MO’OREA . . . . . . . . . . . 77
HUAHINE . . . . . . . . . . .98
RA’IATEA & TAHA’A . . . . . . . . . . . . 110RA’IATEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111TAHA’A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
BORA BORA . . . . . . . . 126
MAUPITI . . . . . . . . . . . 143
THE TUAMOTUS . . . . 151RANGIROA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153TIKEHAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162MATAIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165FAKARAVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166MANIHI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171AHE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
THE MARQUESAS . . . . . . . 174NUKU HIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Taiohae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Hakaui Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .182Toovii Plateau . . . . . . . . . . .182
Taipivai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183Hatiheu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183’UA HUKA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185’UA POU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Hakahau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189Hakahetau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Hakamaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Hohoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192HIVA OA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Atuona & Around . . . . . . . 193Taaoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198Puamau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199Hanapaaoa . . . . . . . . . . . . .199Hanaiapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199
TAHUATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
FATU HIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
THE AUSTRALS & THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO . . . . .203THE AUSTRALS. . . . . . . . . .204Rurutu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Tubuai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Raivavae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208Rimatara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO . . . . . . . . . . 210Mangareva . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210
S O U T H P A C I F I C
O C E A N
PAPE'ETE
148ºW152ºW
12ºS
156ºW
152ºW 148ºW
16ºS
20ºS
Manihi
Aratika
Toau
Ahe
Arutua
Rangiroa
Niau
Kaukura
Fakarava
Apataki
AnaaMehetia
Faaite
s
al
r
Raivavae
t
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Makateana
sTaha'a
d
Tahiti
Tetiaroa
nalIr d
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su
A
Tubuai
h
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T eRimatara
s
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Bellinghausen
Rangiroa
Bora BoraMaupiti
Teahupoo
Mo'orea
Pape'ete
Rurutu & the Australs
Papenoo Valley
Huahine
atoll (p153)
Over-the-water bungalow
The world's third-largest
Motu (small islet) beaches
the monster wave (p74)
(p205)
(p77)
The Heiva festival showcasesPolynesian culture (p51)
Whales, caves and culture
Visit waterfalls in Tahiti'slush interior (p70)
Watch surfing pros ride
High peaks, blue lagoons
and manta rays (p143)
Authentic, laid-backPolynesian perfection (p98)
bliss (p126)
120 miles200 km
00
› Tahiti & French Polynesia
#\
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Los Angeles
Sydney
Tahiti
Inte
rnat
iona
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P A C I F I CO C E A N
O C E A N
S O U T H P A C I F I C
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12ºS
136ºW144ºW
16ºS
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136ºW140ºW 24ºS144ºW
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Tatakoto
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Rekareka
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Paraoa
TekokotaHikueru
Marutea Nord
Ravahere
Tauere
Nengonengo
Fakahina
o
VahangaTenararo
Pinaki
Tureia
Morane
Fangataufa
Moruroa
Ahunui
Tematangisd
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alsI
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Vairaatea
Vanavana
Manuhangi
MariaIsland
Tenarunga
Matureivavao
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MotutungaTahanea
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MarokauReitoru
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AnuanurungaAnuanuraro
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Tropic of Capricorn
The Marquesas
Gambier Archipelago
(p174)Wild terrain and ancient art
relics (p210)Eerie but beautiful church
Top Experiences Top Experiences ›
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Celeste Brash Coordinating Author; Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide Celeste fi rst visited French Polynesia in 1991, fell in love with her now husband as well as Poly-nesian culture, and moved to the country in 1995. Her fi rst fi ve years were spent living off fi sh and coconuts on a pearl farm on an atoll sans plumbing, telephone and airstrip, and the next 10 years were spent on Tahiti. Now in Portland, Oregon, she often complains of the cold. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared
in Travelers’ Tales books, and her travel articles have appeared in publications such as the Los Angeles Times and Islands magazine. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guides, but she considers the Tahiti & French Polynesia guide to be her pièce de résistance.
Jean-Bernard Carillet Diving, On the Road Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a diehard Polynesia lover and diving instructor. So far, he has explored 28 islands in the fi ve archipelagos. On this research gig he searched for the most idyllic motu (small islet), the best manta-ray encounters, the most thrilling lagoon tours, the tastiest poisson cru (raw fi sh in coconut milk) dish, the most romantic spots, the most enjoyable hikes and the best-value accommodation. His favourite
experiences included following the Hawaiki Nui canoe race by boat and attending the Marquesas Arts Festival on Nuku Hiva.
Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles and he writes for travel and dive magazines.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – Sep 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 692 6© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Read more about Celeste at:lonelyplanet.com/members/CelesteBrash
30-our-writers-tah9.indd 27230-our-writers-tah9.indd 272 24/05/2012 2:53:45 PM24/05/2012 2:53:45 PM
Itiner-aries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
#•
#•
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#f
PAPE’ETE
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Bora Bora
Huahine
Tahiti
Th
eS o c i e t y I s l a n d s
SOUTH PACIFIC OCE AN
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É
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One weekA Glimpse of Paradise
From Pape’ete, fl y or boat straight to Mo’orea, and stay for at least two nights. Mo’orea boasts soaring peaks, verdant hillsides and aqua waters, and is considered by many to be the most beautiful isle in the Society Islands. Cycle around mag-nifi cent Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay, explore the island’s archaeological sites or
simply soak up the sun and splash around in the lagoon. From Mo’orea, fl y to Bora Bora. Live it up for a night or more (depending on your budget) in an overwater bungalow or partake in a variety of water excursions on the vast, blue lagoon. Dine by candlelight, relax in a spa and look out for celebrities. From Bora Bora, it’s a short fl ight to much more low-key Huahine, where you can end your holiday with two days of complete relaxation and a taste of authentic Polynesian culture. Go diving or snorkelling, take an island tour, and don’t miss trying ma’a Tahiti (traditional-style food) at the restaurant Mauarii.
22
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#•#•
#•
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PAPE’ETE
Ra’iateaBora Bora
Rangiroa
TahitiThe Society Islands
SOUTH PACIFIC OCE AN
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#•Hiva Oa
#–
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T h eT u a m
o t us
TheMarquesas
É
Explore French Polynesia’s myriad of welcoming cultures as well as its natural beauty. Start with a day or more on Tahiti, where you can take an island tour or hire a car to explore Marché de Pape’ete (Pape’ete Market) and the waterfalls, roadside caves and hidden beaches around the island. At night, catch a dance performance at one of the
resorts or (if it’s a Friday or Saturday) go out for a wild night in Pape’ete. Next get on a plane to Ra’iatea to see the impressive Marae Taputapuatea, one of the
most important spiritual sites of ancient Polynesia and hike up the Temehani Plateau in search of the tiare apetahi, one of the world’s rarest fl owers. Dive or snorkel the lagoon and be sure to take a picnic tour out to one of the island’s fringing white-sand islets or kayak up Faaroa River, the only navigable river in French Polynesia. From here, take a short fl ight to Bora Bora to snorkel the lagoon, swoon at the island’s square silhouette and live la vida jet set for a day or two. Then take a fl ight to Rangiroa, the largest coral atoll in the country. Dive with sharks, live in your swimsuit and quench your thirst with coconuts. Don’t miss a tour of the immense lagoon to see pink-sand beaches and the surreally beautiful Lagon Bleu (Blue Lagoon), a lagoon within a lagoon. At sunset, watch dolphins frolic in Tiputa Pass.
Change cultures entirely when you fl y on to the Marquesas (via Tahiti). Travelling here is like stepping back in time. You’ll start in Nuku Hiva, where you can hike across windswept ridges into ancient volcanic craters before checking out the island’s array of eerie archaeo-logical sites, including Hikokua, Kamuihei and Tahakia. Follow Gauguin’s trail to Hiva Oa to see the artist’s tomb at Calvaire Cemetery and visit the Espace Cuturel Paul Gauguin. Don’t miss the giant stone tiki (sacred statues) at Iipona and several other ancient sites on the island. Alternatively, you could visit all of the Marquesas islands by taking the Aranui cargo ship for one of the world’s most unique cruises focusing on culture and archaeology.
Two weeks or morePolynesian Passage
23PLAN
YOUR TRIP IT
INER
AR
IES
» (above) Stilt bungalows over the waters of Bora Bora (p126) » (left) Cyclists on Mo’orea (p77)
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