©Lonely Planet Publications Pty...

Japan

Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Samantha Forge, Craig McLachlan, Kate Morgan, Thomas O’Malley,

Simon Richmond, Phillip Tang, Benedict Walker.

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Tokyop88

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

p589

Shikokup662Kyūshū

p712

Okinawa & theSouthwest Islands

p783

Kansaip367

The Japan Alps &Central Honshū

p224

Mt Fuji &Around Tokyop167

NorthernHonshū

(Tōhoku)p521

Hiroshima &Western Honshū

p454

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Japan . . . . . . 6Japan’s Top 24 . . . . . . . . 10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 24First Time Japan . . . . . . . 26What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 28If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Month by Month . . . . . . . 32Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Off the Beaten Track . . . 48Japan by the Seasons . . .50Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 66Travel with Children . . . . 80Japan on a Budget . . . . . 82Regions at a Glance . . . . 84

TOKYO . . . . . . . . . . . . 88History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Festivals & Events . . . . . . 126Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 146Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 152Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Information . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Getting There & Away . . . 162

Getting Around . . . . . . . . . 162

MT FUJI & AROUND TOKYO . . . . 167Mt Fuji & Fuji Five Lakes . . . . . . . 169Mt Fuji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Yokohama . . . . . . . . . . . 178Kamakura . . . . . . . . . . . 184Hakone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Hakone-Yumoto . . . . . . . . 191Miyanoshita & Kowakidani . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Chōkoku-no-Mori & Gōra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Sōun-zan & Sengokuhara . . . . . . . . . . 193Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone . . . . . . . . . . 196Izu Peninsula . . . . . . . . 197Atami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Itō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Shimoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Shirahama . . . . . . . . . . . .204Kisami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Dōgashima . . . . . . . . . . . .205Shuzen-ji Onsen . . . . . . .206Izu Islands . . . . . . . . . . 207

Ō-shima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208Nii-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Shikine-jima . . . . . . . . . . .209Hachijō-jima . . . . . . . . . . .209Chichibu & Oku-Tama . . .210Takao-san . . . . . . . . . . . 210Oku-Tama . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Nikkō & Around . . . . . . . .211Nikkō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Chūzen-ji Onsen . . . . . . . 217Yumoto Onsen . . . . . . . . . 218Narita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Ogasawara Archipelago . . . . . . . . . 220Chichi-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Haha-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

THE JAPAN ALPS & CENTRAL HONSHŪ . . 224Nagoya & Around . . . . . 225Nagoya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Inuyama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Gifu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Gujō-Hachiman . . . . . . . .240Kiso Valley Nakasendō . . . . . . . . . . . .241Magome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Tsumago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Kiso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Narai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Hida Region . . . . . . . . . . 246Takayama . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Hida-Furukawa . . . . . . . . . 252Okuhida Onsen-gō . . . . . . 252Shirakawa-gō & Gokayama . . . . . . . . . . . 255Kanazawa & the Hokuriku Coast . . . . 261Kanazawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261Noto Peninsula . . . . . . . . 269Kaga Onsen . . . . . . . . . . . 274Fukui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275

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Contents

Toyama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Takaoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278The Northern Japan Alps . . . . . . . . . . . 279Matsumoto . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Azumino . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Shirahone Onsen . . . . . . . 287Kamikōchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Hakuba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Nagano & Around . . . . . 293Nagano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294Togakushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298Obuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299Nozawa Onsen . . . . . . . . . 301Myōkō Kōgen . . . . . . . . . .303Shiga Kōgen . . . . . . . . . . .303Bessho Onsen . . . . . . . . .304Karuizawa . . . . . . . . . . . . .305Gunma Prefecture . . . . 307Takasaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Minakami Onsen-kyo . . . .308Kusatsu Onsen . . . . . . . . . 311

KYOTO . . . . . . . . . . . 313History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Courses & Tours . . . . . . . .340Festivals & Events . . . . . . 342Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 358Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .360Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Information . . . . . . . . . . . .364Getting There & Away . . .364Getting Around . . . . . . . . . 365

KANSAI . . . . . . . . . . 367Osaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Kōbe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393

Himeji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399Nara Prefecture . . . . . . 401Nara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402Asuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415Yoshino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Kii Peninsula . . . . . . . . . 419Kōya-san . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420Kumano Kodō . . . . . . . . . .426Ise-Shima . . . . . . . . . . . . 435Shiga Prefecture . . . . . . 439Ōtsu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .440Hikone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .442Northern Kansai . . . . . . 442Ōhara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443Kurama & Kibune . . . . . . .445Miyama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Amanohashidate . . . . . . .449Kinosaki Onsen . . . . . . . . .450

HIROSHIMA & WESTERN HONSHŪ . . . . . . . . . . .454Hiroshima . . . . . . . . . . . 455Miyajima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .465Saijō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .468Iwakuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469Onomichi & the Shimanami Kaidō . . . . 469Onomichi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471Inno-shima . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Ikuchi-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Ōmi-shima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473Okayama & the Inland Sea . . . . . . . . 474Okayama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474Naoshima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479Teshima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Shōdo-shima . . . . . . . . . .485Kurashiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Kasaoka Islands . . . . . . . .490Tomo-no-ura . . . . . . . . . . . 491Tottori, Shimane & the San’in Coast . . . . . . 492

Tottori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492San-in Coast National Park . . . . . . . . . .494Daisen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .495Sakaiminato . . . . . . . . . . .495Oki Islands . . . . . . . . . . . .496Matsue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .499Izumo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .503Iwami Ginzan . . . . . . . . . .505Yamaguchi & Around . . . 506Yamaguchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507Tsuwano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510Hagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513Shimonoseki . . . . . . . . . . 517

NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) . . . . . . . . 521Miyagi Prefecture . . . . . 525Sendai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525Matsushima . . . . . . . . . . . 531Ishinomaki . . . . . . . . . . . . 532Naruko Onsen . . . . . . . . . 533Iwate Prefecture . . . . . . 534Morioka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534Hiraizumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537Tōno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Sanriku Kaigan . . . . . . . 541Minami-Sanriku & Kesennuma . . . . . . . . . 543Rikuzen-takata & Ōfunato . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543Kamaishi & Ōtsuchi . . . . 545Miyako . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .546Aomori Prefecture . . . . 547Aomori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547Hirosaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550Towada-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . 554Hakkōda-san . . . . . . . . . . . 556Shimokita Peninsula . . . . .557Akita Prefecture . . . . . . 558Akita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558Kakunodate . . . . . . . . . . . 562

Tazawa-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . . 563Nyūtō Onsen . . . . . . . . . . 565Yamagata Prefecture . . . 566Yamagata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567Yamadera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567Zaō Onsen . . . . . . . . . . . . 569Ginzan Onsen . . . . . . . . . . 571Tsuruoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571Dewa Sanzan . . . . . . . . . . . 572Sakata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574Niigata Prefecture . . . . 575Niigata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575Sado-ga-shima . . . . . . . . 578Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen . . . 582Naeba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .584Fukushima Prefecture . . . . . . . . . . . . 585Aizu-Wakamatsu . . . . . . . 585Bandai Plateau . . . . . . . . 587

SAPPORO & HOKKAIDŌ . . . . . . . 589Sapporo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595Central Hokkaidō . . . . . 604Niseko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .604Otaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Shikotsu-Tōya National Park . . . . . . . . . . 613Tomakomai . . . . . . . . . . . . 619Hakodate . . . . . . . . . . . 619Northern Hokkaidō . . . 625Asahikawa . . . . . . . . . . . . 626Biei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .628Furano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .629Daisetsuzan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 631Wakkanai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 637Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park . . . . . . . . . .639Eastern Hokkaidō . . . . . 645Abashiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 645Shari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 647

Shiretoko National Park . . . . . . . . . .648Akan National Park . . . . . 654Kushiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .660Kushiro-shitsugen National Park . . . . . . . . . .660Tokachi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 661

SHIKOKU . . . . . . . . . 662Tokushima Prefecture . . . . . . . . . . . 666Tokushima . . . . . . . . . . . .666Naruto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671The Anan Coast . . . . . . . . 675Iya Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 679Kōchi Prefecture . . . . . . 685Kōchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 685Shimanto City . . . . . . . . .689Ashizuri-misaki . . . . . . . .690Ehime Prefecture . . . . 691Matsuyama . . . . . . . . . . . . 691Ishizuchi-san . . . . . . . . . . .698Uchiko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .699Uwajima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .700Kagawa Prefecture . . . . 702Takamatsu . . . . . . . . . . . . 703Yashima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 706Marugame . . . . . . . . . . . . 707Zentsuji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708

Kotohira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708Kanonji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 711

KYŪSHŪ . . . . . . . . . . .712Fukuoka & Around . . . . 713Fukuoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 713Dazaifu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 722Karatsu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 723Imari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 725Arita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726Hirado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727Nagasaki & Around . . . 729Nagasaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 729Shimabara Peninsula . . . . 740Kumamoto & Around . . 743Kumamoto . . . . . . . . . . . . 743Aso-san . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 746Kurokawa Onsen . . . . . . . 750Takachiho . . . . . . . . . . . . . 751Oita Prefecture . . . . . . . 754Beppu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754Yufuin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 760Kunisaki Peninsula . . . . . . 762Usuki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 763Southern Kyūshū . . . . . 764Kagoshima . . . . . . . . . . . . 764Sakurajima . . . . . . . . . . . . 771Satsuma Peninsula . . . . . 772

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Contents

Kirishima-Kinkōwan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 775Miyazaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 777Aoshima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 780Nichinan Coast . . . . . . . . 781Obi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 781

OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . 783Ōsumi Islands . . . . . . . 787Yakushima . . . . . . . . . . . . 787Tanegashima . . . . . . . . . . 792Amami Islands . . . . . . . 793Amami-Ōshima . . . . . . . . . 794Yoron-tō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 797Okinawa-hontō . . . . . . . 798Naha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798

Southern Okinawa-hontō . . . . . . . .806Motobu Peninsula . . . . . . 807Kerama Islands . . . . . . 808Aka-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .808Zamami-jima . . . . . . . . . .809Kume-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 810Miyako Islands . . . . . . . 812Miyako-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 813Irabu-jima & Shimoji-jima . . . . . . . . . 816Yaeyama Islands . . . . . . 817Ishigaki-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 817Iriomote-jima . . . . . . . . . . 823Taketomi-jima . . . . . . . . . . 825Hateruma-jima . . . . . . . . . 826Yonaguni-jima . . . . . . . . . 827

Japan Today . . . . . . . . . . 830

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 832

The People of Japan . . .848

Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 854

Architecture & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . 864Environment . . . . . . . . . 868

Sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 873

Traditional Accommodation . . . . . . 876

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 880

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 890

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 903

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 913

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 926

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

O ff t h e Bea te n Tra c k . . . . . 4 8

3D Tokyo Nat ional Museum I l lustrat ion . . . . . . 102

3D Tōdai - j i I l lustrat ion . . . . . 404

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Kokuzo BosatsuSeated to the left of the Daibutsu is Kokuzo Bosatsu, the bodhisattva of memory and wisdom, to whom students pray for help in their studies and the faithful pray for help on the path to enlightenment.

Buddhas Around DainichiSixteen smaller Buddhas are arranged in a halo

around the Daibutsu’s head, each of which symbolises one of the Daibutsu’s diff erent

manifestations. They are graduated in size to appear the same size when viewed

from the ground.

KomokutenStanding to the left of the Daibutsu is Komokuten (Lord of Limitless Vision), who serves as a guardian of the Buddha. He stands upon a demon (jaki), which symbolises ignorance, and wields a brush and scroll, which symbolises wisdom.

The Daibutsu (Great Buddha)Known in Sanskrit as 'Vairocana' and in Japanese as the 'Daibutsu', this is the Cosmic Buddha that gives rise to all other Buddhas, according to Kegon doctrine. The Buddha’s hands send the messages 'fear not' and 'welcome'.

TamontenTo the right of the

Daibutsu stands Tamonten (Lord Who

Hears All), another of the Buddha’s

guardians. He holds a pagoda, which is said to represent a divine

storehouse of wisdom.

Hole in PillarBehind the Daibutsu you will nd a pillar with a

50cm hole through its base (the size of one of the Daibutsu’s nostrils). It’s said that if you can crawl

through this, you are assured of enlightenment.

Nyoirin KannonSeated to the right of the Daibutsu is Nyoirin Kannon, one of the esoteric forms of Kannon Bodhisattva. This is one of the bodhisattva that preside over the six diff erent realms of karmic rebirth.

FACT FILE

THE DAIBUTSUHeight 14.98mWeight 500 tonnesNostril width 50cm

THE DAIBUTSU-DEN HALLHeight 48.74m Length 57mNumber of roof tiles 112,589

Tōdai-jiVISIT THE GREAT BUDDHAThe Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Nara’s Tōdai-ji is one of the most arresting sights in Japan. The awe-inspiring physical presence of the vast image is striking. It’s one of the largest bronze Buddha images in the world and it’s contained in an equally huge building, the Daibutsu-den Hall, which is among the largest wooden buildings on earth.

Tōdai-ji was built by order of Emperor Shōmu during the Nara period (710–784) and the complex was finally completed in 798, after the capital had been moved from Nara to Kyoto. Most historians agree the temple was built to consolidate the country and serve as its spiritual focus. Legend has it that over two million labourers worked on the temple, but this is probably apocryphal. What’s certain is that its construction brought the country to the brink of bankruptcy.

The original Daibutsu was cast in bronze in eight castings over a period of three years. It has been recast several times over the centuries. The original Daibutsu was covered in gold leaf and one can only imagine its impact on Japanese visitors during the eighth century AD.

The temple belongs to the Kegon school of Buddhism, one of the six schools of Buddhism popular in Japan during the Nara period. Kegon Buddhism, which comes from the Chinese Huayan Buddhist sect, is based on the Flower Garland Sutra. This sutra expresses the idea of worlds within worlds, all manifested by the Cosmic Buddha (Vairocana or Dainichi Nyorai). The Great Buddha and the figures that surround him in the Daibutsu-den Hall are the perfect physical symbol of this cosmological map.

Plan Your Trip

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Tokyo, Kyoto & Hiroshima

This classic route for first-time visitors hits many of Japan’s star attractions, can be done year-round and takes advantage of the excellent value and seamless travel offered by a Japan Rail Pass.

Start with a couple of days in Tokyo, get-ting your bearings and a taste of big-city Japan – the skyscrapers, the bustle and all those lights. Then hop on the bullet train for Kyoto. (If you wait until now to acti-vate your rail pass, you can get by with a seven-day pass.)

You’ll need two or three days to sample the best of Kyoto’s temples and gardens.

From here you can make side trips to Nara, home of the Daibutsu (Great Bud-dha), and Osaka, famous for its vivid nightscape and street food. Then head west on to Himeji to see Japan’s best cas-tle, Himeji-jō.

Next stop is Hiroshima, for the moving Peace Memorial Park. Further down the coast is Miyajima, with its photogenic floating shrine. You can spend the night in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) here before making the train journey back to Tokyo. On your way back there, drop into the mountain hot-spring resort of Hakone to get your onsen fix.

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This route highlights Japan’s traditional culture and its natural beauty. As snow can close mountain passes in winter, it is best undertaken in spring, summer or autumn.

Spend the first few days in Kyoto exploring the city’s famous temples, shrines and gardens. Be sure to budget some time for the less-famous ones too, which are more peaceful, and for a day trip to Nara. Both Kyoto and Nara have excel-lent national museums with classical art and artefacts. In the evenings, stroll Kyoto’s historic geisha district.

Next take the train to Kanazawa, a city that, in its heyday, rivalled Kyoto in its con-tributions to the arts. As befitting its location near the Sea of Japan, Kanazawa is known for excellent seafood, but also for its lasting artisan tradition and its strolling garden, Kenroku-en. Both Kyoto and Kanazawa are excellent places to shop for traditional crafts.

Now get a car and head for the mountains of Hida. The villages of Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama are famed for their farmhouses with dramatically angled thatched roofs. Con-tinue to Takayama, a charming old post town with well-preserved wooden buildings (now housing galleries, sake breweries and craft shops) and narrow streets.

Then head to Shin-Hotaka Onsen for out-standing rustic onsen (hot springs) and ryokan (traditional Japanese inns), followed by a visit to Kamikōchi for alpine scenery and hiking (closed from 15 November to 22 April). You’ll eat well travelling in the mountains: local speciali-ties include soba (buckwheat noodles), beef, hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled on a mag-nolia leaf) and foraged mushrooms and shoots.

From here drive east to the castle town of Matsumoto, home to one of Japan’s best origi-nal castles, Matsumoto-jō. Near Nagano, pretty Obuse, another well-preserved mountain town, is home to the Hokusai Museum. End your trip in Nagano with a visit to the city’s impressive temple, Zenkō-ji.

Nagano has a shinkansen (bullet train) sta-tion, so you can catch a train onward or drive straight on to Narita Airport.

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Japan often feels like a destination that requires a long trip and advance planning, but it needn’t be. In and around Tokyo you can cover a lot of varied terrain, taking in both contemporary and traditional Japan.

Base yourself in Tokyo and do day trips or hop around. In three or four days you can take in the capital’s highlights, eating well, and still have time to explore some of its less touristy neighbourhoods, like Shimo-Kitazawa and Kōenji.

Mt Fuji is open to hikers from June through mid-September; you can do it as one long over-night climb – to hit the summit for sunrise – or stay a night in a mountain hut. Year-round, visit the Fuji Five Lakes region for views of the iconic volcano.

For temples and shrines head north to Nikkō, with 17th-century structures set among cedars, or south to Kamakura, a one-time medieval capital with many Zen temples. On the Pacific coast, Kamakura is also a hip beach town with cafes and surf shops.

Round off your trip with a visit to the hot-spring resort Hakone. There are spa complexes here for day trippers, or you can splurge on a night in a ryokan.

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Take a slow, deep dive into Japanese history and culture; you’ll cover a lot without having to travel far. Arranged with public transport in mind, this itinerary is possible year-round, though Kōya-san will be cold and possibly snowy in winter. Fly in and out of Kansai International Airport.

Start with Kyoto, Japan’s cultural storehouse, and spend several leisurely days exploring. Then head to Nara – not for the typical day trip – but for a few days’ trip. Beyond the city there are fascinating historic temples, very old shrines and country rambles around Sakurai and pre-Buddhist burial mounds around Asuka.

Then pop over to Osaka for a jolt of city life, before taking the train to Kōya-san. This mountain monastery was founded in the 8th century and is still active today; spend the night in a temple for a taste of monk life.

Buses run April through November to your next destination, the ancient pilgrim trails of the Kumano Kodō. Outside of these months you’ll need to do some backtracking via train. Spend a few days walking through woods and rural hamlets, to temples, shrines and some of Kansai’s best onsen between Hongū, Shingū and Nachi-Katsuura.

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Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaidō, has much of what you want out of Japan: steaming onsen and rugged, volcanic peaks, city lights and foodie cred, as well as something you wouldn’t expect – the opportunity for an epic road trip. Snow falls early in Hokkaidō, so this is a summer trip.

Start in Hakodate, Hokkaidō’s southernmost port, which has a charming 19th-century city centre. The journey here by shinkansen (bullet train) takes four hours from Tokyo (though it’s probably cheaper to fly).

After a fresh seafood breakfast at Hakodate’s fish market, pick up a rental car and drive to Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, home to caldera lakes and an active volcano. Budget time to soak in the springs of Noboribetsu Onsen inside the park.

Next stop: Sapporo, Hokkaidō’s capital city (and Japan’s fifth-largest). Get your city fix here, basking in the bright lights of the Susukino district. Then head to Hokkaidō’s second city, Asahikawa, deep in the interior; also a famous ramen town. It’s also the gateway for Daisetsu-zan National Park, Japan’s largest national park and a mostly untouched wilderness of dense forest high in the mountains.

There are three villages on the perimeter of the park: Tokachidake Onsen, Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen. All have hot springs, lodging and good day treks. Don’t miss Fukiage Roten-no-yu, near Tokachidake Onsen, one of Japan’s best in-the-wild onsen. It’s also worth spending a night at Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō, a truly remote mountain lodge.

Continue east to the World Heritage–listed Shiretoko National Park, a spit of land that Hokkaidō’s indigenous people, the Ainu, referred to as ‘the end of the world’. There are hikes here through primeval woods and more hidden hot springs.

Akan National Park is most famous for its startlingly clear blue caldera lakes, Kussharo-ko and Mashū-ko. This is also the best place on Hokkaidō to connect with Ainu culture, start-ing with a visit to the village, Akan Kotan.

Finally head down to Kushiro-shitsugen National Park, home to the endangered Japa-nese red-crowned crane. From Kushiro it’s easy work on the expressway back to New Chi-tose Airport, south of Sapporo.

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Considered off the beaten track, Kyūshū really delivers: it’s got vibrant cities, layers of history, excellent onsen and smoking volcanoes. If you’ve been to Japan before, or want to see something totally different, this trip is for you.

Fly into Fukuoka from Tokyo and spend a day getting to know this hip young city, famous for its ramen. You can tour Kyūshū easily enough by train – there’s a rail pass just for the island – but it helps to have a car. This will come in handy for working your way down the coast to Nagasaki through the pottery towns, Karatsu and Arita, with a detour to Hirado.

History, of course, weighs heavily on Naga-saki, the second Japanese city destroyed by an atomic bomb. But as Japan’s only truly open port during the 200-year period of isolation in the 17th to 19th centuries, Nagasaki has cosmo-politan legacy that predates its historic tragedy and lives on today in its food and architecture.

From Nagasaki cut into the heartland to Kurokawa Onsen, one of Japan’s best onsen towns, where you can stay in a ryokan. Con-tinue south, past the active volcano Aso-san (if it’s calm, you can get close) and the castle town Kumamoto (still recovering from a 2016 earth-quake) to Kagoshima. This city at the tip of the Shimabara Peninsula is known for tonkatsu (breaded and fried pork cutlets), shōchū (strong distilled liquor) and Sakurajima – the smoking volcano that lords over the skyline. South of Kagoshima are the hot sand baths of Ibusuki.

Return the car and catch a speedboat from Kagoshima to magical Yakushima, an island with primeval, moss-strewn forests and seaside onsen. Make it an overnight trip (or longer – there are great hiking options here).

Back in Kagoshima, take the slow ferry for an epic overnight ride to Okinawa-hontō, the larg-est of the Okinawa Islands. Spend a day or two exploring the capital city Naha, the former seat of the Ryūkyū Empire, sipping fresh juice from the market and getting your fill of island delica-cies. From Naha, it’s a one-hour jet-foil ride to the idyllic, palm-fringed Kerama Islands – where you can get your beach fix. Then catch a flight back to Tokyo from Naha.

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0 400 km0 200 miles

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A few hours and a world away from the big cities of Kansai, Iya Valley has been called the ‘Shangri La of Japan’. Stay in a restored thatched-roof farmhouse and get a taste of traditional village life. (p679)

IYA VALLEY

On really clear days you can see Taiwan from Yonaguni-jima, Japan’s westernmost inhabited island. Divers come here to swim with hammerhead sharks and explore the mysterious ‘Atlantis of the Pacific’ ruins. (p827)

YONAGUNI-JIMA

Fringed by healthy coral reefs and covered with dense tropical jungle, the island of Iriomote-jima is one of Japan’s wildest places. (p823)

IRIOMOTE-JIMA

Sacred dances to the sun goddess are performed at an ancient shrine here deep in rural Kyūshū. (p751)

TAKACHIHO

A windblown spit of land once believed to be the end of this world, with a haunting temple and a pock-marked, volcanic landscape. (p557)

SHIMOKITA PENINSULA

Once a place of exile, these cliff-lined islands offer some spectacular scenery and a real feeling of getting away from it all. (p496)

OKI ISLANDS

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RISHIRI-TŌ & REBUN-TŌ

Complete the three-mountain hike that makes up this trail through the wilds of Yamagata, a favourite pilgrimage for the yamabushi (mountain priests). (p572)

DEWA SANZAN

An outpost of rugged mountains and coastline, each August this island rocks to the sound of the famous Kodō Drummers during the fabulous Earth Celebration. (p578)

SADO-GA-SHIMA

This is as far off the beaten track as you can get in Japan. A full 25½-hour ferry ride from Tokyo, these semitropical islands – complete with white sand beaches – feel like a different world. (p220)

OGASAWARAARCHIPELAGO

With no sealed roads and a healthypopulation of brown bears, Shiretoko is true wilderness. The rewards for tackling the tough trails here are long soaks in hot springs. (p648)

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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911911

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alexander Debkaliuk, Andrew Edwards, Ann Clancy, Benjamin Laine, Bernhard Leube, Chris Morgan, Christina Andersen, Jean-Francois Gilbert, Joris Coenen, Julie Landau, Margaret Chappell, Morgan Giles, Niall Christie, Nick Stevens, Nicolas Pouppart, Paul Gully, Petra O’Neill, Ray Dahlhoff, Sigrun Kölle, Travis Nelson, Tsuyoshi Jona.

WRITER THANKSRebecca MilnerThank you to my family and friends, who are there for me through all the ups and downs and late nights; to my indefatigable co-author Simon, for his inspiration and guidance; to LP for standing by me; and to all the chefs, curators, professors, baristas and total strangers who knowingly or unknowingly provided me with new insight into this city, which I must also thank, for always keeping me on my toes.

Ray BartlettThanks first and always to my family and amazing friends, for letting me go on these adventures and still remembering me when I get back. To the great editorial staff at LP for their wisdom and advice. To all people I met or who helped me along the way. Tamura-さん, Airi, Kurumi and Aya, Yamaguchi-さん, Ishikawa-さん, Saeki, Saika, Minori, Emi, Ōtani-さん,

Sakiko-さん, the lovely Linh, Watanabe Ayaka-さん...and so many other great people I met along the way. Thanks so much. Can’t wait to be back again soon.

Andrew BenderThanks to my excellent Kyushu spirit guides Yohko Scott, Sakaguchi Riho, Jeremy Chen, Fujiyoshi Jun, Horichi Shiori, Ide Masahiro, Kai Hiroshi, Kamimoto Eiko, Kono Shintaro, Kuroki Shinya, Matsukawa Akihiro, Sasaki Takeshi, Shibata Kayoko, Cameron Stadin, Takae Tomoko, Takatori Aki, Taniguchi Yukiko, Yamasaki Keiko and Yoshida Kenji, and LP staff mem-bers Laura Crawford, James Smart and Sarah Bailey, without whom none of this would have been possible.

Stephanie d’Arc TaylorThank you to the charming, clever and indefatigable Christine, who fed me soba as a child and gave me my first copy of the Inland Sea. Without your help I couldn’t have done this, or anything. Thank you to Chieko, Hidemasa, and to Teruko for saying that I use chopsticks better than Christine. Thank you to my LP mentors Lauren Keith, Laura Crawford, Rebecca Milner, Craig McLachlan and James Smart. Thank you to Bethan, who helped me prematurely celebrate this assignment.

Samantha ForgeThank you to the wonderful people I met throughout Tōhoku for your knowledge, patience and boundless kindness. I have never drunk so many cups of tea in my life. Huge thanks also to the other Team Japan authors for their generosity and friendship, and to

Behind the Scenes


912

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

everyone at LP who has had a hand in this project, especially the lovely Laura Crawford.

Craig McLachlanA hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my living kanji dictionary and exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko.

Kate MorganThank you again to Laura Crawford for the opportu-nity to work on Osaka and Kyoto, and to Jen Carey for your help throughout. Huge thanks to Kengo Nakao from the Kyoto Tourist Information office for your assistance. Thanks to my parents for joining me in Kyoto and keeping up the research pace in the extreme heat! And to my friend Yuki and my fiancé Trent for great nights out, loads of food and rock bar shenanigans. Thanks also to all the inhouse staff at LP who make this book happen.

Thomas O’MalleyThanks to my esteemed fellow authors Simon and Rebecca for assisting this Japan Guide noob in the ways of the road warrior. Thanks to Family Mart and its konbini cohorts for all those cut-price caf-feine hits on the road. Thanks to Mt Fuji for finally showing your beautiful face after days cloaked in cloud (I almost wept). Thanks to the two Ō-shima Island Aussies, Chloe and Caitlin. And thanks, as ever, to Ophelia.

Simon RichmondMany thanks to co-writer Rebecca and to the following: Will Andrews, Toshiko Ishii, Kenichi, Giles Murray, Chris Kirkland, Shoji Kobayashi, Jun Onuma, Sabrina Suljevic, Ken Gail Kato, Toyokuni Honda, Tim Hornyak and Tomoko Yoshizawa.

Phillip TangWarm thanks to patient tourism staffers and trav-ellers who shared their experiences. Thanks Laura Crawford for having me again; Japan will miss you. Thanks to ‘David’ Tong Wai Chung for skewers and whiskey highballs in Okayama, and tips on Izumo. Huge thanks to Chizu Otsuka at Tomato in Hiroshima. In Tokyo, arigato Nic for craft beers and ‘life’ talks; and Ayako for incredible chicken, weird waiters and Korean ‘husbands’. Thanks in spirit to Vek Lewis for running guidance.

Benedict WalkerBig thanks as always to my Japanese ‘family’ the Shimizus for their continued friendship and fun, to Laura Crawford for keeping me on the team, to James Smart for his patience at submission time, to Taku Yamada and Kei Nakamura for your guid-ance and advice; to Cheryl, Bruce, Jess and Casey for being very sticky soul-glue; to Mum and the Walkers for watching over me from afar, and to my brother Andy for coming through with the goods and shining like a beacon of inspiration when I least expected it. To the resilient people of these remote island communities, where mother nature rules: you’ve forever won a place in my heart: ganbarō!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Red-crowned cranes (p660), Hokkaido, Ondrej Prosicky/Shutterstock ©.

THIS BOOKThis 16th edition of Lonely Planet’s Japan guidebook was researched and written by Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Samantha Forge, Thomas O’Malley, Craig McLachlan, Kate Morgan, Simon Richmond, Phillip Tang, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Benedict Walker. The previous edition was written by Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Craig McLachlan, Kate Morgan, Simon Richmond, Tom Spurling, Phillip Tang,

Benedict Walker and Wendy Yanagihara. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Laura Crawford, James SmartSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Shona GraySenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtAssisting Cartographers Michael Garrett, Alison LyallBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber,

Heather Champion, Samantha Cook, Lucy Cowie, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Victoria Har-rison, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Brendan Dempsey-SpencerThanks to Naoko Akamatsu, William Allen, Jennifer Carey, Gwen Cotter, Liz Heynes, Kate James, Elizabeth Jones, Campbell McKenzie, Virginia Moreno, Wayne Murphy, Kirsten Rawlings, Brad Smith

913

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

88 Temples of Shikoku 670, 672-3

AAbashiri 645-7Abeno Harukas 375accessible travel 880accommodation 26, 59,

880-2, see also individ-ual locations

etiquette 877-8language 904ryokan 13, 876shukubō 425, 877traditional

accommodation 876-8activities 55-65, see

also individual activities, individual locations

Age of Courtiers 834-7Aikawa 578aikido 875Ainokura 259Ainu language 606Ainu museums

Ainu Folklore Museum 654

Hakodate Museum of Northern Peoples 620

Hokkaidō Museum of Northern Peoples 646

Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Hall 626-7

Museum of Ainu Folklore 658

Ainu people 653Ainu villages 654air travel

airports 890-1passes & discounts 891-2to/from Japan 890-1within Japan 891-2

Aizu-Wakamatsu 585-7

Aka-jima 808-9Akan National Park 654-60,

656-7Akanko Onsen 654-7Akita 558-62, 561Akita Komaga-take 564Akita Prefecture 558-66,

559Allied occupation 846ama 438Amami Islands 793-8Amami-Ōshima 794-7, 795Amanohashidate 449-50Amaterasu 755Amerika-Mura 373-4amusement parks 81

Fuji-Q Highland 174Kawasaki Warehouse 181Sky Circus 120-1Tokyo Disney Resort 120Tokyo Joypolis 121Universal Studios Japan

379-80Anan Coast 675-9ancient Japan 832-4ancient sites 787animals, see wildlifeanime 859-60

Ghibli Museum 110Mandarake Complex 97Miyazaki Hayao 110

Annupuri 605Aomori 547-50, 549Aomori Prefecture 547-58,

548Aoshima 780-1aquariums 376-7, 807archaeological sites &

museumsHagi-jō 514Ichijōdani Asakura Clan

Ruins 275Saitobaru Archaeological

Museum 775Saitobaru Burial Mounds

Park 775Sannai Maruyama 547-8

Sendai Castle ruins 525Takayama-jō 247The Museum, Archae-

ological Institute of Kashihara 415

Tokushima-jō 666Tsukuriyama-kofun 478Tsuwano-jō 511Uegusuku Castle Ruins

810-11Uenohara Jōmon no

Mori 775architects

Ando, Tadao 99, 112, 390, 481, 560, 866

Itō Toyō 112, 473, 474, 526Kuma, Kengo 99, 111, 112,

138, 197, 733, 866Kurokawa Kishō 99, 696Pei, IM 440Ryue Nishizawa 112, 484Sejima Kazuyo 112Tange Kenzō 109, 458,

865-6Wright, Frank Lloyd 147,

236, 866architecture 864-6

gasshō-zukuri 258machiya 355Matsumoto Open-Air Ar-

chitectural Museum 281Meiji-mura 236museums 473Tokyo 112

area codes 887Arita 726-7arriving in Japan 25art festivals 858art galleries & art museums,

see also craft & folk art museums, design museums

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art 264

Adachi Museum of Art 504

Akita Museum of Art 560Anno Art Museum 511

Aomori Museum of Art 547

Art House Project 479-80Asakura Museum of

Sculpture, Taitō 101Benesse House Museum

481Chichū Art Museum 481Chihiro Art Museum

Azumino 286Enoura Observatory 190Fujiyama Art Museum 174Fukuoka Asian Art

Museum 716Ghibli Museum 110Ginza Graphic Gallery 97Ginza Maison Hermès Le

Forum 97Hagi Uragami Museum

514Hagi-jō Kiln 514Hakone Museum of

Art 193Hakone Open-Air Museum

193Hida Takayama Museum

of Art 247Higashiyama Kaii

Setouchi Art Museum 707

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art 459

Hokkaidō Museum of Modern Art 597

Hokusai Museum 299Ikuo Hirayama Museum of

Art 473Inujima Seirensho Art

Museum 483Ishikawa Wajima Urushi

Art Museum 271-2Ishinomori Mangattan

Museum 532Japan Ukiyo-e Museum

281Kamakura National Treas-

ure Museum 187Kubota Itchiku Art

Museum 175


914

IND

EX A- B

art galleries & art museums, continued

Kutaniyaki Porcelain Art Museum 274

Kyoto International Manga Museum 320-1

Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum 320

Kyūshū Ceramic Mu-seum 726

Lee Ufan Museum 481Matsumoto City Museum

of Art 281Miho Museum 440Mizuki Shigeru Museum

496MOA Museum of Art 197Mori Art Museum 98-9Morijuku Museum 510Nagasaki Prefectural Art

Museum 733Nagoya/Boston Museum

of Fine Arts 229Narukawa Art Museum

196National Art Center

Tokyo 99National Museum of

Modern Art 327National Museum of

Modern Art (MOMAT) 95-6

Neiraku Art Museum 408Niigata City Art Museum

575Ōhara Museum of Art

488Okada Museum of

Art 192Otsuka Museum of

Art 675Pola Museum of Art

193-5Reihōkan 424RIAS Ark Museum of

Art 543Rokuzan Bijutsukan 286Sado Hanga-mura

Museum 578SCAI the Bathhouse 105Shimane Prefectural Art

Museum 500Shiseido Gallery 97Shoko Kanazawa

Museum 206Suntory Museum of

Art 99

Takai Kōzan Kinenkan 300

Takamatsu City Museum of Art 703

Takayama Museum of History & Art 249

teamLab Borderless 117-18

Teshima Art Museum 484

Teshima Yokoo House 484

Tokoro Museum 473Tokugawa Art Museum

228Tokushima Modern Art

Museum 668Tokyo Metropolitan Teien

Art Museum 115Tokyo National Museum

100TOP Museum 115Tsuboya Pottery

Museum 801Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial

Museum of Art 111‘Umi’ Museum of

Contemporary Art 306Utsukushi-ga-hara Open

Air Museum 282Yamaguchi Prefectural

Art Museum 508Yayoi Kusama Museum

109Yokohama Museum of

Art 179artists

Asakura Fumio 101Iwasaki Chihiro 286Hokusai 299Kusama Yayoi 109Miyazaki Hayao 110Noguchi Isamu 598Sugimoto Hiroshi 190

arts 854-63bunraku 388, 667, 862butō 860calligraphy 855, 857haiku 855ikebana 858kabuki 153, 699, 709, 862nō 154, 860-2painting 855-6shikki 855shodō 855, 857ukiyo-e 857-8

Asahidake Onsen 631-4Asahikawa 626-8Ashikaga Shoguns 837-8Ashizuri-misaki 690Aso-san 746-50, 748

Asuka 415-17Atami 197-8ATMs 886Atomic Bomb Dome 458atomic bombs

Hiroshima 455-8Nagasaki 730, 731

autumn leaves 52, 53awamori 805Azumino 286-7

Bbaggage forwarding 890Bandai Plateau 587-8, 588baseball 81, 155, 388,

602, 874Bashō, Matsuo 567bathhouses 64, 121, 122,

497, see also onsenbathrooms 888beaches

Boraga Beach 814Chichi-jima 221Eef Beach 811Furuzamami Beach 810Fusaki Beach Aqua

Garden 820Goishi Kaigan 544Hate-no-hama 811Higashi-hama 494Hoshisuna-no-hama 823Ida-no-hama 823Iso-hama 765Jodogahama Beach 546-7Kabira Bay 820Kaiji-hama 825Koigaura-hama 781Kondoi Beach 826Makidani 494Nagahama-kaigan 792Nagamahama 814Nagata Inaka-hama 788Nagomi-no-tō 826Nakanoshima Beach 816Nishibama Beach 809Nishihama 826Oganeku-kaigan 797Sakibaru Beach 794Shinri-hama 811Sunayama Beach 813Sunset Beach 817Takezaki-kaigan 792Tatami-ishi 811Terasaki-kaigan 797Toguchi-no-hama 816Tomori-kaigan 794Tsuki-ga-hama 824Uradome 494

Yonaha-Maehama Beach 814

Yonehara Beach 820beer 77, 398, 669, see also

breweriesBeppu 754-60, 756, 758,

760accommodation 755-7activities 755drinking & nightlife

758-9food 757-8shopping 759sights 754-5tourist information 759travel to/from 759travel within 759-60

Bessho Onsen 304-5bicycle travel 892, see cy-

cling, mountain bikingBiei 628-9, 632Bihoro Pass 658Blakiston Line 645boat tours

Abashiri 646Chūzen-ji Onsen 218Dōgashima 205Geibi Gorge 538Hozu-gawa river 349Ine 450Iriomote-jima 824Kagoshima 765Kumano Kodō 431Kume-jima 811Matsue 501Matsushima 531Naruto Whirlpool

Sightseeing Boats 675Osaka 380Otaru 611Shimanto City 689Shimokita Peninsula 557Shiretoko National

Park 652Tokushima 668

boat travel 892-3, see also boat tours, ferry travel

Akita 561Amami-Ōshima 796Aomori 550Beppu 759Fukuoka 722Hakodate 624Hiroshima 464Hokkaidō 594Ishigaki-jima 823Izu Islands 207Kagoshima 770Kasaoka Islands 490


915IN

DEX B

- CKerama Islands 808Kii Peninsula 419Kōbe 398, 399Kumamoto 746Matsushima 532Matsuyama 698Miyajima 468Miyazaki 780Nagoya 235Naha 805Naoshima 483Niigata 577Oki Islands 497Okinawa & the

Southwest Islands 786Onomichi 471Osaka 391Otaru 612Sendai 530Shikoku 668Shimoda 203Shimokita Peninsula 558Shimonoseki 520to/from Japan 891Takamatsu 705Tokushima 671Wakkanai 638within Japan 892-3Yakushima 791

books 459, 830breweries

A-Factory 549-50Andō Brewery 562Hakubotan 468Ide Sake Brewery 176Kamotsuru 468Kirin Beer Yokohama

Factory 181Kyoto Brewing Company

358-9Oriental Brewing 267Sapporo Biergarten 602

bridgesKazura-bashi 680Megane-bashi 733Nakashima-gawa

Bridges 733Oku Iya Ni-jū

Kazura-bashi 682Ōnaruto-hashi 675

Buddhist sitesDaibutsu (Kamakura)

184-5Daibutsu (Nara) 14,

403, 14Kumano Magaibutsu 762

Buddhist temples, see also Kyoto temples, individ-ual temples

88 Temples of Shikoku 670, 672-3

Amanohashidate 449Bessho Onsen 305Butsumoku-ji 702Byōdō-in 319Chikurin-ji 687Chion-in 322Chūzen-ji Onsen 218Dainichi-ji 671Daitoku-ji 327-30Eikan-dō 326Fuki-ji 763Fukui 275-6Futago-ji 762-3Garan 422, 43Gifu 239Ginkaku-ji 325-6Giō-ji 338Gokuraku-ji 671Gōshō-ji 706Hagi 514Higashi Hongan-ji 318Hiraizumi 537Hōnen-in 327Hongū 430Hōryū-ji 413-14Hotsumisaki-ji 678-9Ikuchi-jima 473Ishite-ji 691Iwato Kannon-dō 613Iwaya-ji 691Jinne-in 711Jizō-ji 671Kaga Onsen 274Kamakura 185-6, 187Kanazawa 264Kanon-ji 711Kennin-ji 325Kimpusen-ji 417-18Kinkaku-ji 334, 37, 54Kiyomizu-dera 321-2Kōdai-ji 323Konchi-in 327Kongōfuku-ji 690Konsen-ji 671Kōtō-in 330Kōya-san 422-4Kurama 445Maki Ōdō 763Mano 582Matsushima 531Miyajima 465Myōshin-ji 334-5Nachi-Katsuura 434Nagano 294Nagoya 229Nanzen-ji 326

Nara 403, 407-8Narita 219Nishi Hongan-ji 318Noto Peninsula 271Noto-kongō Coast 271Ōhara 443-4Ōkubo-ji 708Oku-no-in 422Osaka 374-5Ōtsu 440Ryōan-ji 334Ryōzen-ji 671Ryūkō-ji 702Saihō-ji 336-7Sanjūsangen-dō Temple

323Sensō-ji 105, 130Shikoku 679Shimoda 201Shimokita Peninsula 557Shōfuku-ji 716Shōren-in 322-3Shusshaka-ji 708Shuzen-ji 206Sōfuku-ji 733Tairyū-ji 678Taizō-ji 763Takaoka 278Takao-san 210Tenryū-ji 337Tō-ji 318Tōdai-ji 403, 404-5Tomo-no-ura 491Tōshōdai-ji 414-15Unpen-ji 711Yakuō-ji 676Yakuri-ji 706Yakushi-ji 414Yamadera 569Yamaguchi 507Yashima-ji 706Zenkō-ji 294, 257Zentsū-ji 708

budget 25, 82-3, 884Bujō-ji 444bullet trains 897bungy jumping 310bunraku 388, 667, 862bus travel 893

passes 894business hours 886, 896butō 860Byōdō-in 319

Ccable cars & ropeways

Asahi-dake Ropeway 633-4

Bijodaira 277Bizan Ropeway 666Furano 629Gifu 239Hakkōda-san 556Hakone Ropeway 195Ishizuchi-san 698Kachi-Kachi Yama

Ropeway 176Kanka Gorge 485Kanonji 711Kitanomine Gondola 629Kōbe 394Komagatake Ropeway 242Kuro-dake 634-5Matsuyama 691Misen 465Nagasaki Ropeway 736Oku-Tama 211Ontake-san 245Sapporo 597Shimonoseki 518Shin-Hotaka Ropeway

254Tairyū-ji 678Tanigawa-dake Ropeway

309Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine

Route 277, 256Tsurugi-san 684Unzen 742Usu-zan 618Yashima 706Zaō Onsen 569-70

calligraphy 855, 857canyoning

Iya Valley 683Niseko 606Uwajima 701-2

car & motorcycle travel 893-6

car hire 893-4hitch-hiking 896insurance 895language 894

castles & palaces 22Gifu-jō 239Gujō Hachiman-jō 241Himeji-jō 399-400, 23Hirosaki-jō 551Hiroshima-jō 458Imperial Palace 93-5Inuyama-jō 236Karatsu-jō 723-4Kōchi-jō 685Kumamoto-jō 743Kyoto Imperial Palace

330-1, 335Marugame-jō 707

916

IND

EX C- E

castles & palaces, continued

Matsue-jō 499-500Matsumoto-jō 281Matsuyama-jō 691Nagoya-jō 228-9Nijō-jō 319Okayama-jō 475Osaka-jō 371Sendai Castle Ruins 525Sentō Imperial Palace

331Shimabara-jō 740Shuri-jō 799Takamatsu-jō 703Tsuwano-jō 511Tsurumaru-jō 765Uwajima-jō 701

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesAma-no-Yasukawara 752Dōgashima 205Fugaku Fuketsu 177Genbudō 451Gohyakurakan 506Goishi Kaigan 544Ikuchi-jima 473Kamakura 186Matsuyama 691Megijima 483Miyako 546Narusawa Hyōketsu 177Oki Islands 498Sai-ko Kōmoriana 177Jōzankei 613Tōri-ike 816

cell phones 24, 887-8cemeteries 101Central Hokkaidō 604-19Central Honshū 224-312,

226-7accommodation 224climate 224, 225food 224highlights 226travel seasons 224

Central Japan Alps 242ceramics 726cherry-blossom viewing 14,

33, 51, 2, 14Chiburi-jima 498Chichibu 210-11Chichi-jima 221-2Chiiori 682

children, travel with 80-1Kyoto 326Tokyo 127

China occupation 844-5Chion-in 322Chiran 774-5Chōkoku-no-Mori 192-3Chōmon Gōrge 511Christianity 839churches & cathedrals

Orthodox Church (Hakodate) 620

Ōura Cathedral 735St Francis Xavier

Memorial Church 507Tsuwano Catholic

Church 510Urakami Cathedral 730

Chūson-ji 537Chūzen-ji Onsen 217-18cinema 859climate 24, 882-3climbing, see also hiking

Ishizuchi-san 698Kamikōchi 289Mt Fuji 170, 171Ontake-san 245Tanigawa-dake 310Yōtei-zan 607

consulates 883-4contemporary art 858-9cormorant fishing 238costs 25, 82-3, 884courses

cooking 124-6, 249, 340, 342, 709

crafts 124, 125, 815ikebana 125wagashi 125

craft & folk art museumsAinokura Minzoku-kan 260Amuse Museum 106Beppu Traditional Bam-

boo Crafts Centre 754Crafts Gallery 96Fureai-Kan Kyoto

Museum of Traditional Crafts 327

Hida Folk Village 247Ino Japanese Paper

Museum 687Ishikawa Prefectural

Museum of Traditional Products & Crafts 268

Kayabuki Art Museum & Folk Museum 448

Kinosaki Strawcraft Museum 451

Kusakabe Folk Museum 247

Nakazato Tarōemon 724Ogi Folk Museum 578-9Sanuki Folkcraft Museum

703Uchiwa-no-Minato

Museum 707crafts, see also individual

craftsAinu people 653courses 815Kanazawa 268Kyūshū 726museums 196, 451,

562, 703shopping 240, 251, 285,

362, 364cranes 660credit cards 886culture 848-53currency 24customs regulations 883cycling 65, 81, 892, 64

Aso-san 747Kibi 478Osaka 380Shimanami Kaidō 470,

696Shimanto City 689Tokyo 123, 126Tōno 540

DDaibutsu (Nara) 14,

403, 14Daimonji-yama 340Daisen 495Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen 636Daisetsuzan National Park

631-7, 632-3, 622-3Daitoku-ji 327-30dance

awa odori 126, 668butō 860geisha 361kagura 752, 754tetsuya odori 240

dangers, see safetyDazaifu 722-3demographics 831, 848-50design museums

21_21 Design Sight 99-100

d47 Museum 113Design Festa 113International Design

Centre Nagoya 229Dewa Sanzan 572-4disabilities, travellers

with 880

discount cards 883distilleries 576diving 64

Anan Coast 676Dōzen Islands 498Haha-jima 223Ishigaki-jima 820Itō 200Miyako-jima 815Motobu Peninsula 807Naha 801Southwest Islands 798Yonaguni-jima 827

Dōgashima 205-6Dōgo 497-8Dōtombori 373Dōyama-chō 387Dōzen Islands 498-9drinking & nightlife 77-8,

see also individual locations

drinks 76-9awamori 805beer 77, 398, 669language 906sake 54, 76-7, 576, 578shōchū 770tea 77

driving, see car & motorcy-cle travel

driving licenses 894

Eearthquakes

Great East Japan Earthquake 533, 586

Great Kantō Earthquake 179

Kōbe Earthquake 393eastern Hokkaidō 645-61Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen

582-4eco tourism 682economy 846-7Edo period 840-2Ehime Prefecture 691-702Eikan-dō 326electricity 883embassies 883-4emergencies 25

language 906Emperor Akihito 830Enoshima 186Enoura Observatory 190environment 868-72etiquette 27, 67events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 25


917IN

DEX F-H

Ffemale travellers 889Ferris wheels 379, 804ferry travel 393, 520,

594, 639festivals & events 22, 32-5,

see also individual events

Abashiri 646Akita 560Aomori 548Asahikawa 627Dewa Sanzan 573Fuji-Yoshida 174Fukuoka 716Hagi 515Haguro-san 573Hakodate 621Hida-Furukawa 252Hirosaki 551Hiroshima 459Inuyama 237Ise-shima 436-7Izumo 504-5Kakunodate 562Kanazawa 265Kōbe 394Kōchi 687Kōya-san 424Kyoto 342Matsue 501Matsumoto 283Miyajima 466Mt Fuji 174Nachi-Katsuura 434Naeba 584Nagasaki 736Nagoya 231-2Naha 801Naoshima 481Nara 408Narita 219Nikkō 215Noto Peninsula 272Nozawa Onsen 301Osaka 380Ōtsu 440-2Sado-ga-shima 579Saijō 468Sapporo 599Sendai 526-7Shimonoseki 518-19Takachiho 752Takayama 249Tōhoku 546Tokushima 668Tokyo 126Tsuwano 511

Wajima 272Yokohama 181-2

films 830, 859fishing

Akan National Park 655Amami-Ōshima 794cormorant fishing 238Matsushima 531Sado-ga-Shima 579Yonaguni-jima 827

folk art museums, see craft & folk art museums

folk tales 542food 13, 66-76, 68

etiquette 67Hokkaidō specialities

625izakaya 69jingisukan 609kaiseki 70kaiten-sushi 385Kanazawa specialities

267kappō-ryōri 385kushikatsu 385Kyoto specialities 351language 67, 70, 904-6Matsue specialities 503Nagoya specialities 233okonomiyaki 74, 385, 75onsen cooking 759onsen tamago 742Osaka specialities 385ramen 71, 600, 78seasonal specialities 66Shinshū 295shōjin-ryōri 70, soba 72, 73sushi 71Takamatsu specialities

703takoyaki 385teishoku 69Tōhoku specialities 530tonkatsu 72tempura 72tuna 558udon 72uni 639wagashi 74, 351, 353whale 433yakitori 71yatai 720

food marketsAomori 549Hakodate 620Kamaishi 545Kanazawa 264-5Kuromon Ichiba 374

Niigata 576Nishiki Market 319-20Osaka 389Shimonoseki 517Takayama 251Tokyo 96, 118-19, 141Tsukiji Market 96

free attractions 83Fuji Five Lakes 169-78Fuji-Yoshida 173-5Fukui 275-6Fukuji Onsen 254Fukuoka 713-22, 718

accommodation 716-17baseball 721discount cards 722drinking & nightlife 720entertainment 720-1festivals & events 716food 717-20shopping 721sights 713-16tourist information 721transport to/from 721travel within 722

Fukushima nuclear incident 586

Fukushima Prefecture 585-8

Fuku-ura-jima 531Furano 629-31, 632Fushimi Inari-Taisha 315, 2

Ggalleries, see art galleries

& art museumsGaran 422-3gardens 866-7, see

also parks Fukuoka 716Himeji 400Hiraizumi 537-8Hirosaki 550-1Hiroshima 458-9Inuyama 236Kagoshima 764-5Kanazawa 264Kōbe 394Kumamoto 744Kyoto 331Matsuyama 691Nagasaki 735Nagoya 228Naha 801Nara 408Okayama 474-5Sapporo 598Tokyo 95, 96, 98

gasshō-zukuri 258gay travellers 153, 387, 885Geibi Gorge 538geisha 361, 863, 346, 854Genpei War 836-7Gifu 238-40Ginkaku-ji 325-6Ginzan Onsen 571Giō-ji 338Gion 322Gion Matsuri 33go-karting 125Gokayama 255-8, 259-60gold leaf 268Gōra 192-3gorges 747, 752, 695Gujō-Hachiman 240-1Gunkanjima 738Gunma Prefecture 307-12

HHachijō-jima 209-10Hagi 513-17, 515Haha-jima 222-3haiku 855Hakkōda-san 556-7Hakodate 619-25, 621,

622-3Hakone 189-97, 194Hakone-machi 196-7Hakone-Yumoto 191-2Hakuba 290-3Hakui 270hanami 14, 33, 51, 2, 14Hanazono 605Haneda Airport 892Hashima (Gunkanjima) 738Hateruma-jima 826-7health 884Hearn, Patrick Lafcadio

502Heian-kyō 834-6Heisei era 847Hida region 246-60Hida-Furukawa 252hiking 59-61, see

also climbing88 Temple Pilgrimage

670Akita Komaga-take 564Aokigahara Forest 177-8Asahi-dake 631-2, 44-5Aso-san 749Bandai Plateau 587Central Japan Alps 242Daibutsu Hiking Course

187Daimonji-yama 340

918

IND

EX H-I

hiking, continuedDaisen 495Daisetsuzan National

Park 634, 635Hakkōda-san 556Hakodate-yama 620Hakuba 291Iriomote-jima 824Ishizuchi-san 698Iwaki-san 551Jōgasaki-kaigan 199Kamakura 187Kamikōchi 289, 257Kanka Gorge 485Kirishima-Kinkō-wan

National Park 776Kitayamazaki Cliffs 546Kōgen-numa Meguri

Hike 636Kumano Kodō 428Kuro-dake 634-5Kyūshū 728Magome 243Mano 582Mashū-dake Trail 658Me-Akan-dake 655Michinoku Coastal

Trail 544Minami-zaki 222-3Momoiwa Course 643Motosu-ko 178Mt Fuji 170-1Naruko Gorge 533-4Niseko Circuit 606O-Akan-dake 655Oirase Keiryū 554Old Hakone Highway 196Ōtake-san 211Pon-yama 641Rausu-dake 649Rebun-dake 643Rebun-tō Traverse 643Rishiri-zan 640-1Senjōgahara Shizen-

kenkyu-rō 218-19Shari-dake 647Shikoku 684Shirakami-sanchi 551Shiretoko National

Park 649Sōun-zan 195Takao-san 210Tarumae-zan 616Ten-en Hiking Course

187

Tokachi-dake 637Tsumago 243Yakushima 788-9Yama-no-be-no-michi

413Yōtei-zan 607

Hikone 442Himeji 399-401, 401, 23Himi 270Hirado 727-9, 694Hirafu 605Hiraizumi 537-9, 538Hirosaki 550-4, 552Hiroshima 18, 19, 21, 456,

460accommodation 454,

459-62books 459climate 454drinking & nightlife 463entertainment 463-4festivals & events 459food 454, 462-3highlights 456information 464sights 455-9tours 459travel seasons 454travel to/from 464travel within 464

historic buildingsAizu Bukeyashiki 585Alt House 735Bukeyashiki Ishiguro-ke

562Buke Yashiki Samurai

Residence 500-1Co-machi-no-ie 706Former Uezu Residence

810Glover House 735Historical Abumiya

Residence 574Kami-tokikuni-ke 273-4Katsura Rikyū 338Kikuya Residence 514Kita-ke 270-1Kumagai Residence 506Kyū-Takatori-tei 724Mitsubishi No 2 Dock

building 735Murakami-ke 259Ōhashi House 488Ōkōchi Sansō 335-6Old British Consulate

620-1Oranda Shōkan 727-8Ōta Residence 491Ringer House 735

Sapporo Clock Tower 598

Takayama-jinya 247Togawa-ke Oshi-no-ie

Restored Pilgrim’s Inn 173

Tōkaikan 199Tokyo Station 96Tomioka Silk Mill 308Tsumagojuku-honjin 243Walker House 735Zuihō-den Mausoleum

525historic sites

Dutch Slopes 735-6Iimori-yama 585Koi no Uyogu Machi 740Nikkō Tamozawa

Imperial Villa Memorial Park 213

Samurai Houses 740, 774Shin-kyō 215Yōkaichi Historic District

699history 832-47hitching 896Hiwasa 676Hokkaidō 18, 589-661,

590-1accommodation 589,

593climate 589, 592-3food 589, 593highlights 590history 592national parks 593road trips 605safety 593travel seasons 589travel to/from 593-4travel within 594-5

Hokuriku Coast 261-79holidays 887Hōnen-in 327Hongū 429-33Hōryū-ji 413-14hoshisuna (star sand)

823, 826hot springs, see also onsen

Beppu 754-5Unzen 742

Hozu-gawa river 349

IIbusuki 772-4IC cards 897ikebana 858Ikuchi-jima 472-3Ikumi 677-8

Imari 725immigration 830-1Imperialist Japan 844important numbers 25Ine 450Inno-shima 472insurance 884, 895internet access 885Inujima 483Inuyama 236-8, 237Irabu-jima 816-17Iriomote-jima 823-5Ise-Shima 435-9, 436Ishigaki-jima 817-23, 821Ishinomaki 532-3Ishizuchi-san 698-9islands

Aka-jima 808-9Amami-Ōshima 794-7,

795Aoshima 780-1Chiringashima 772Hashima 738Hateruma-jima 826-7Ikema-jima 814Irabu-jima 816-17Iriomote-jima 823-5Ishigaki-jima 817-23Kōri-jima 807Kume-jima 810-12Miyako-jima 813-14Okinawa-hontō 798Shimoji-jima 816-17Taketomi-jima 825-6Tanegashima 792-3Yakushima 787-92Yonaguni-jima 827-8Yoron-tō 797-8Zamami-jima 809-13

isolationist policy 841itineraries 36-49

Kyoto 322Osaka 379Tokyo 93

Itō 198-201Itsukushima-jinja 465Iwaki-san 551Iwakuni 469Iwami Ginzan 505-7Iwate Prefecture 534-41,

535Iya Valley 679-85, 680izakaya 69Izu Islands 207-10Izu Peninsula 197-207,

168, 198Izumo 503-5Izumo Taisha 504


919IN

DEX J-L

JJapan Alps 224-312, 226-7

accommodation 224climate 224, 225food 224highlights 226travel seasons 224

Japanese language 27, 894, 903-7

Japanese modernisation 842-3

Japanese myths 833Japanese reunification

wars 838-40Jigokudani Monkey Park

293Jingo-ji 337Jōzankei 613-16judo 875

Kkabuki 153, 699, 709, 862Kaga Onsen 274-5Kaga Yūzen silk dyeing 268Kagawa Prefecture 702-11Kagoshima 764-71, 766-7

accommodation 765-8activities 765drinking & nightlife

769-71food 768-9history 764sights 764-5tourist information 770tours 765travel to/from 770-1travel within 771

kagura dance 752, 754kaiseki 70kaiten-sushi 385Kakunodate 562-3Kamaishi 545-6Kamakura 184-9, 185, 40Kamakura Shoguns 837Kamikatsu 669Kamikōchi 19, 288-9, 61Kanazawa 17, 261-9, 262-3Kanka Gorge 485Kanonji 711Kansai 367-453, 368-9

accommodation 367climate 367food 367highlights 368travel seasons 367

kappō-ryōri 385karaoke 78, 150-1karate 875

Karatsu 723-5Karuizawa 305-7Kasaoka Islands 490-1Kasuga Taisha 407Katsura Rikyū 338, 30Kawaguchi-ko 175-7Kawayu Onsen 657-60Kayabuki-no-sato 447-8kayaking

Anan Coast 677Chichi-jima 221Dōzen Islands 498Iriomote-jima 824Motosu-ko 178Tokyo 124

kendō 875Kerama Islands 808-10Kesennuma 543Kibi 478Kibune 445-7, 446Kii Peninsula 419-35, 421kimono 853

dyeing 268maiko 323museums 102, 175shopping 156, 159, 362,

363, 721wearing 507, 728, 731

Kimpusen-ji 417-18Kinkaku-ji 334, 37, 54Kinosaki Onsen 450-3, 62Kisami 204-5Kiso 244-5Kiso Valley Nakasendō

241-6kissaten 69Kitano-chō 393-4Kitayamazaki Cliffs 546Kiyomizu-dera 321-2Kōbe 393-9, 396Kōbō Daishi 662, 670Koboke 683-4Kōchi 685-9, 686Kōchi Prefecture 685-90Kōdai-ji 323Konchi-in 327Kotohira 708-11, 710Kōtō-in 330Kowakidani 192Kōya-san 20, 420-6, 423Kumamoto 743-6, 745Kumano Kodō 15, 426-

35, 15Kume-jima 810-12Kunisaki Peninsula 762-3Kurama 445-7, 446Kurama-dera 445Kurashiki 487-9, 489

Kuril Islands 649Kurobe Gorge Railway 279Kurokawa Onsen 750-1Kusatsu Onsen 311-12Kushiro 660Kushiro-shitsugen National

Park 660-1Kussharo-ko 658Kutani porcelain 268Kutchan 605Kuttara-ko 617Kyoto 11, 313-66, 314,

316-17, 320, 324, 328, 332-3, 336, 339, 2, 10, 30, 37, 53, 54, 346, 347

accommodation 313, 342-50

activities 338-40children 326climate 313courses 340-2drinking & nightlife

358-60entertainment 361-2festivals & events 342food 313, 350-8, 73highlights 314internet resources 364itineraries 322medical services 364shopping 362-6sights 315-38tourist information 364tours 340-2travel seasons 313travel to/from 364-5travel within 365-6walks 341, 357, 341, 357

Kyoto templesByōdō-in 319Chion-in 322Daitoku-ji 327-30Eikan-dō 326Ginkaku-ji 325-6Giō-ji 338Higashi Hongan-ji 318Hōnen-in 327Kennin-ji 325Kinkaku-ji 334Kiyomizu-dera 321-2Kōdai-ji 323Konchi-in 327Kōtō-in 330Myōshin-ji 334-5Nanzen-ji 326Nishi Hongan-ji 318Ryōan-ji 334Saihō-ji 336-7

Sanjūsangen-dō Temple 323

Shōren-in 322-3Tenryū-ji 337Tō-ji 318

Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum 28, 320

Kyūshū 712-82, 714-15accommodation 712climate 712food 712, 769highlights 714-15history 713travel to/from 713travel within 713

Llacquerware 268lakes

Akan-ko 654Ashino-ko 190Biwa-ko 439Chūzenji-ko 217Five Colours Lakes 587Kawaguchi-ko 175-7Ikeda-ko 773Kussharo-ko 658Mashū-ko 658Motosu-ko 178Naka-dake Crater 746Okama 569Ōnami-ike 776Onneto-ko 655Panketō-ko 655Penketō-ko 655Sai-ko 177-8Shikotsu-ko 616Shinji-ko 499Shiretoko-go-ko 649-50Tarō-ko 655Tazawa-ko 563-5Towada-ko 554-6Tōya-ko 618Usori 557Yuno-ko 218

landmarksBotchan Karakuri Clock

691Buried Torii 771-2Irizaki 827Japan’s Southernmost

Point 826Kanazawa Castle Park

265Nakayama Rice Fields

485Peeing Boy Statue 679Senmaida Rice Terraces

273

920

IND

EX L- M

landmarks, continuedTakaoka Great Buddha

278Zenigata 711

language 27, 894, 903-10legal matters 885lesbian travellers 153,

387, 885legends 542LGBTIQ+ travellers 153,

387, 885libraries 459, 526lighthouses

Agarizaki 827Ashizuri-misaki 690Higashi Henna-zaki 814Kadowaki Lighthouse

199Noroshi 273

local transport 896-7Lower Noto Peninsula

270-1luggage forwarding 890

Mmachiya 355Magome 16, 242-3, 16maiko 323Manabe-shima 490manga 496, 532, 859-60Mano 578, 582marimo 655markets

Kōchi 687Kyoto 319-20, 363, 347Nagoya 234Naha 800Tokyo 141, 157Wajima 271Wakkanai 637Yobuko 725

martial arts 874-5Marugame 707-8Mashū-ko 658Matsue 499-503, 500Matsumoto 281-6, 282Matsuo Bashō 567Matsushima 531-2Matsuyama 691-8measures 880media 885-6medical services 884meditation 276, 340, 573Megijima 483

Meguro-gawa 115Meiji Restoration 842-3Meiji-jingū 111Michinoku Coastal Trail 28military bases 800military museums 806Minakami Onsen-kyo

308-10Minami-Sanriku 543minshuku 877Miyagi Prefecture 525-

34, 526Miyajima 465-8, 466Miyako 546-7Miyako Islands 812-17, 814Miyako-jima 813-16Miyama 447-9Miyanoshita 192Miyazaki 777-80, 778Miyazaki, Hayao 110mobile phones 24, 887-8momiji 52, 53money 24, 25, 82-3, 884,

886Morioka 534-7, 536Motobu Peninsula 807-8Moto-Hakone 196-7motorcycle travel, see car

& motorcycle travelMotosu-ko 178mountain biking 205mountains, see also Mt Fuji

Asahi-dake 631-4, 44-5Aso-gogaku 747Aso-san 746-50, 748Bizan 666Daisen 495Fugen-dake 742Gas-san 573Haguro-san 572Hakodate-yama 620Heisei Shinzan 742Iimori-yama 585Inasa-yama 736Iwaki-san 551Kaimon-dake 773Kasa-yama 514Kujū-san 751Kunimi-dake 742Misen 465, 698Mt Chibusa 222Mt Ōmuro 199-200Myōken-dake 742O-yama 277Rausu-dake 649Rishiri-zan 640-1Shiun-zan 703Sōun-zan 195

Tengu-dake 699Tsurugi-san 684Usu-zan 618Yōtei-zan 607, 622Yudono-san 573

Mt Fuji 170-2, 168, 172, 16, 40

accommodation 171-3climbing 171rental gear 174safety 171trails 170viewpoints 175

Murō-ji 414Muroto-misaki 678-9museums, see also art

galleries & art muse-ums, archaeological sites & museums, craft & folk art museums, design museums, mil-itary museums, peace memorials & museums, railway museums

Abashiri Prison Museum 645-6

Advertising Museum Tokyo 96

Akan Kohan Eco- Museum Centre 654-5

Amami-no-Sato 794Aoyagi Samurai Manor

Museum 562Aso Volcano Museum

747Awa Deko Ningyō Kaikan

668Awa Odori Kaikan 666Beer Museum Yebisu 114Chikurin-ji Treasure

House 687Cup Noodles Museum

179Dazaifu Tenman-gū

Museum 723Dondenkan 236DT Suzuki Museum 264Edo-Tokyo Museum 106Fujisan World Heritage

Center 175Fukui Dinosaur Museum

276Fukuoka City Museum

716Fukushima Checkpoint

Site 244Gifu City History

Museum 239Gokayama Minzoku-kan

260Gunkanjima Digital

Museum 738

Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan 716

Hara Model Railway Museum 179

Himeyuri Peace Museum 806

Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center 538

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum 455

Hokkaidō Museum 598-9Hōmotsu-kan 709Intermediatheque 93Inuyama Artifacts

Museum/Castle & Town Museum 236

Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum 706

Ishigaki City Yaeyama Museum 820

Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Centre 506

Japanese Sword Museum 106

Kaikarō 264Kankō Historical

Museum 723Karakuri Museum 247Kiriko Kaikan 271Kōbe City Museum 394Kōchi Castle Museum of

History 686Koizumi Yakumo

(Lafcadio Hearn) Memorial Museum 502

Ko-shashin-shiryōkan 735-6

Kumano Hongū Heritage Centre 430

Kyoto National Museum 324-5

Kyūshū National Museum 722

Les Archives du Cœur 484

Liberty Osaka 375-6Maizō-shiryōkan 736Marukin Soy Sauce

Historical Museum 485Matsue History Museum

500Matsuura Historical

Museum 728Meiji-mura 236Momofuku Andō Instant

Ramen Museum 379Muroto Unesco Global

Geopark Center 679Museum of Commerce &

Domestic Life 699Museum of Oriental

Ceramics 371-2Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

921IN

DEX M

-O

Museum of the Meiji Restoration 765

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum 730

Nagasaki Museum of History & Culture 731, 733

Nagasaki Traditional Performing Arts Museum 735

Nara National Museum 403-7

National Museum of Ethnology 377

Nawa Insect Museum 239

Neburi Nagashi Kan 560Nebuta no Ie Wa Rasse

548Neputa Mura 551Nezu Museum 111-13Nikkō Tōshō-gū Museum

215Nippon Maru Sailing

Ship 179Nishin Goten 610NYK Hikawa Maru 179Okinawa Prefectural

Museum & Art Museum 800

Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum 806

Ōkura-yama Ski Jump Stadium 598

Osaka Museum of History 372-3

Otaru General Museum 611

Reimeikan 765Sand Museum 492-3Sapporo Beer Museum

595Satsuma Denshōkan 772Sea Turtle Museum

Caretta 676Sendai City Museum 526Shikoku-mura 706Shima 265Shimane Museum of

Ancient Izumo 504Shin-Yokohama Rāmen

Museum 179Shitamachi Museum 105Shōko Shūseikan 765Tachiarai Heiwa Kinen-

kan 724-5Taga-jinja Sex Museum

701Takao 599 Museum 210Takayama Festival Floats

Exhibition Hall 247

Takayama Shōwa-kan 247

Togakushi 299Tokyo National Museum

100-1, 102-3Tōno Folktale &

Storytelling Center 539Toyo Ito Museum of

Architecture 473Toyota Exhibition Hall

231Umigame-kan 788Waki-honjin (Okuya) &

Local History Museum 243

Yakusugi Museum 787Yokohama Archives of

History 181Yoron Minzoku-mura 797Yuzawa Town History

Museum 583music 862-3Myōkō Kōgen 303Myōshin-ji 334-5myths 833

NNachi-Katsuura 434-5Naeba 584-5Nagano 294-8, 298Nagano Prefecture 293-

307, 296Nagasaki 729-40, 732,

734, 737accommodation 736drinking & nightlife

738-9Dutch history 735-6festivals & events 736food 736-8, 739history 729-30sights 730-6tourist information 739travel to/from 739-40travel within 740

Nagoya 225-35, 230Naha 798-806, 802

accommodation 801-3activities 801drinking & nightlife 804festivals & events 801food 803shopping 804-5sights 798-801tourist information 805travel to/from 805travel within 805-6

Nankin-machi 394Nanzen-ji 326

Naoshima 14, 479-84, 480, 15

Nara 402-12, 406, 416accommodation 408-10drinking & nightlife 410festivals & events 408food 410information 412shopping 410-15sights 403-8tours 408travel around 412travel to/from 412walks 411, 411

Nara Prefecture 401-19Narai 245-6Naramachi 409Narita 219-20Naruko Onsen 533-4Naruto 671-5national parks 870

Akan National Park 654-60, 656-7

Bandai-Asahi National Park 524

Daisetsuzan National Park 631-7, 632-3, 622-3

Hakusan National Park 270

Hokkaidō 593Kirishima-Kinkō-wan

National Park 775-7Kushiro-shitsugen

National Park 660-1Northern Honshū

(Tōhoku) 524Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu

National Park 639-45, 640

San-in Coast National Park 494-5

Sanriku Fukkō National Park 524

Shikotsu-Tōya National Park 613-19, 614-15

Shirakami-sanchi 524, 551

Shiretoko National Park 648-52, 623

Towada-Hachimantai National Park 524

Unzen-Amakusa National Park 742

nature centres 776Nebuta Matsuri 34newspapers 885Nichinan Coast 781nightlife 77-8, see also

individual locationsNiigata 575-8

Niigata Prefecture 575-85, 577

Nii-jima 209Nijō-jō 319Nikkō 28, 212-17, 214Ninen-zaka 325Niseko 604-10, 614, 58Nishi-Iya 679-81Nishiki Market 319-20, 347nō 154. 860-2Noboribetsu Onsen 616-18Nonbei-yokochō 139Noroshi 273northern Hokkaidō 625-45Northern Honshū (Tōhoku)

521-88, 522-3accommodation 521climate 521food 521highlights 522-3history 524national parks 524travel seasons 521travel to/from 524-5

Northern Japan Alps 279-93

Northern Kansai 443-53Noto-chō 273Noto-kongō Coast 271Noto Peninsula 269-74,

272Nozawa Onsen 301-3Nyūtō Onsen 565-6

OObi 781-2Ōboke 683-4Obuse 299-301Oda Nobunaga 238, 239,

838Ofunato 543-5Ogasawara Archipelago

220-3Ogi 578Ogijima 483Ogimachi 258-9Ōhara 443-5Ōhi pottery 268Ōita Prefecture 754-64Ōkawachiyama 725, 694Okayama 474-9, 476Oki Islands 496-9Okinawa 20, 783-828

accommodation 783climate 783food 783, 804highlights 784

Okinawa-hontō 798-808

922

IND

EX O-P

Ōkinohama 685okonomiyaki 74, 385, 75Okuhida Onsen-gō 252-5Oku-no-in 422Oku-Tama 210-11Ōma 558Ōmi-shima 473-4Omoide-yokochō 139Ōmori 505Onomichi 469-72onsen 11, 62-5

Akanko Onsen 655Akiu Onsen 527Anan Coast 676Aoni Onsen 554Arita 727Atami 197Azumino 286-7Beppu 755Bessho Onsen 305Chūzen-ji Onsen 218Daisetsu Kōgen Onsen

636Dōgashima 205, 206Dōgo 497Fukuji Onsen 254Ginzan Onsen 571Gokayama 260Hachijō-jima 209-10Hakkōda-san 556-7Hakone-Yumoto 191,

191-2Hirayu Onsen 253Hongū 430Ibusuki 773Inuyama 237-8Itō 200Iya Valley 681, 682-3Jōzankei 613-16Kaga Onsen 274Kagoshima 765Kamaishi 545Kanazawa 266Kaniyu Onsen 220Kinosaki Onsen 451-2Kirishima-Kinkō-wan

National Park 776Kotan-yu 658Kume-jima 811Kurama 445-6Kurokawa Onsen 750-1Kurosaki Senkyo Onsen

544Kusatsu Onsen 311Kyoto 340, 350

Kyūshū 743Matsumoto 285Matsushima 531Matsuyama 693Minakami Onsen-kyo

309Miyajima 466-7Miyako-jima 814Mizunashi Kaihin Onsen

620Morioka 535Nagoya 232Naoshima 481Nara 409Naruko Onsen 533-4Nii-jima 209Niseko 606Noboribetsu Onsen 617Nozawa Onsen 302Nyūtō Onsen 565, 566Ogimachi 258Oku-Tama 211Osaka 379Ō-shima 208Rebun-tō 643Rishiri-tō 641-2Ryūjin 427Shikine-jima 209Shikotsu-ko 616Shin-Hotaka Onsen

254-5Shirahone Onsen 287Shiretoko National Park

649, 650Shōdo-shima 486Shuzen-ji Onsen 206,

206-7Sōunkyō Onsen 635Takayama 249-50Tanegashima 792Tokachidake Onsen 636Tokyo 121-3Tomo-no-ura 492Tsuwano 511Usu-zan 618Wakkanai 637Yakushima 789-90Yamaguchi 508-9Yufuin 760-1Yumoto Onsen 219Yunessun 192Zaō Onsen 570

onsen cooking 759Ontake-san 245opening hours 886, 896Osaka 21, 370-92, 372,

374, 376, 4, 21, 43accommodation 380-3activities 379-80

Banpaku-kinen-kōen 377-9

drinking & nightlife 386-7

entertainment 387-8festivals & events 380food 383-6history 370Honmachi 386-7internet resources 390itineraries 379Kita 370-1, 381, 383-

4, 374LGBTIQ+ travellers 387medical services 390Minami 373-5, 381-3,

384-6, 387, 376Naka-no-shima 371-3,

381, 384, 386-7postal services 390safety 390shopping 388-93sights 370-9Tempōzan 376-7Tennōji 375-6, 383, 386tourist information 390tours 380travel to/from 390-2travel within 392walks 378, 378

Osaka-jō 371Ō-shima 208-9Osorezan-bodaiji 557Ōsumi Islands 787-93Otaru 610-12, 612Ōtsu 440-2Otsuchi 545-6

Ppaddleboarding

Miyako Islands 813, 814Motosu-ko 178Shirahama 204Tokushima 668Yaeyama Islands 820Yokohama 178

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