Location And Extent

Islands

History

Traditions and Culture

Festivals and Events

End credits

LOCATION AND EXTENT

The Cook Islands comprise 15 small oceanic islands in the central South Pacific, defined by statute as all the islands between latitudes 8° and 23° South and longitudes 156° and 167° West. The islands are situated about 3,200 km northeast of New Zealand, and are a self-governing country in free association with New Zealand. Although the total land area of the islands is only about 241 sq .km, the territorial seas and Exclusive Economic Zone cover an area of nearly two million sq .km.

Southern Islands

Aitutaki

Aitu

Mangaia

Manuae

Mauke

Mitiario

Palmerston

Rarotonga

Takutea

Northern Islands

Manihiki

Nassau

Tongareva

Pukapuka

Rakahanga

Suwarrow

A visit to the Cook Islands is not complete without seeing the beautiful island of Aitutaki, which is less than an hours flight from Rarotonga. and lies 220

kilometres north of Rarotonga. It measures just 20 square kilometres and is partly volcanic in origin. The breathtaking allure of its crystal clear turquoise waters and

sparkling white beaches is an essential ingredient in any Cook Island holiday. This is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and tranquillity, providing a simple

tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world.

Legend has it that Maungapu, Aitutaki's highest hill at one time resided at the top of Rarotonga's Raemaru Peak and was brought to Aitutaki by victorious warriors after a fierce battle. The spectacular lagoon (45 kilometres around) you view from the peak is abundant with coloured fish of many varieties, its perimeter sprinkled

with many small, charming and accessible, uninhabited islands (motus). It doesn't seem so long ago that the expansive Aitutaki Lagoon saw the stirring

sight of massive flying boats coming in to land on the turquoise waters. The lagoon served as a re-fueling stop for TEAL (now Air New Zealand) flying boats servicing the famous coral route between North America and the South Pacific.

Aitutaki - Araura Enua

Atiu - the island of birds and legends - is the third largest in the group, forming part of the Southern section of the Cook Islands. Atiu is a small volcanic island, with central elevated flat-topped mass of volcanic rock surrounded by a raised coral limestone reef called a Makatea. The makatea runs around the island ranging in width from anywhere between 50 to 100 metres. Low cliffs, 3 to 6 metres high surround the island, but there are many recesses in which small sandy coves are found.It is a fascinating destination, riddled with caves, maketea, raised coral atoll, cliffs, and white sand beaches. Orovaru Beach is where Captain James Cook landed in 1777. The barrier reef lies close to the shore and the four main villages - Areroa, Tengatangi, Mapumai and Teenui - are grouped together on a central plateau some 71 metres above sea level. A road extending 20 kilometres around the islands is the best means by which to explore. Learn the legend of lovers Inutoto and Tangaroa and their association with Anatakitaki Cave, which is spectacularly adorned with stalagmites, stalactites and also home to the Kopeka bird. Visit Raka’s Cave with its fifteen different chambers and your guide will tell you about the many generations of the Rakanui family who have lived and died in this magnificent hideaway, inside the island’s lush rain forest.

Atiu - Enuamanu

To experience Mangaia is to feel the true warmth of the people, past and present. Mangaia is the southernmost and the second largest of the Cook Islands. The oldest island of the group, renowned for it's 'ei pupu' (shell leis). It lies approximately 176km south east of Rarotonga and has a land area of 52 square kilometers sitting 60 metres above sea level. Mangaia is an island of incredible, serene beauty - from its rugged coastline to the lush green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief, for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the world beyond the reef. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast, or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings, just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and a variety of other crops.

Believed to be about 19 million years old, Mangaia is a raised atoll surrounded by layers (from 2 to 6 layers in several places) of jagged limestone coral known as Makatea. The makatea in some places are 60 metres high and about a kilometre wide. Numerous trees, shrubs and plants grow between the coral limestone forming the makatea forest that surrounds the exterior of the island. Linked to a running stream in the valley is a brackish water lake formed against a makatea cliff. Numerous limestone caves are scattered throughout the makatea forest some of which have been used as ancient burial sites. Geologically, Mangaia is the oldest island in the Cooks Group. One of its most fascinating features is an amazing series of caves that run through the makatea.

Manuae, is a peaceful sanctuary and lies 102 kilometeres south-east of Aitutaki. this now unhabited island was once home to contract workers employed on copra production. It consists of two horseshoe-shaped islets, Manuae and Te Au O Tu and covers and area of 6 square kilometres.Now with with Copra a thing of the past Manuae has been declared as a marine reserve and breeding ground for sea birds and marine turtles.The island is occasionally visited by residents of Aitutaki who travel by small boat or aircraft for game fishing or diving expeditions.Some Dive operators based in Rarotonga provide onboard dive excursions to the islands of Manuae and Takutea as these areas are now really untouched. If your interested in an experience that connects you to our environment contact any of our Dive operators and they will be able to provide you with the best advise.

Mauke takes its name from the legendary founder ‘Uke who came to the island in search of a peaceful place to live. By today’s standards, he certainly chose the perfect island. However, prior to the arrival of Christianity Mauke was dominated by the Atiuan’s who would often descend on murderous cannibal raids taking many slaves.Today, Mauke’s peaceful existence belies its unsettled past and visitors will find a real Pacific haven on this infrequently visited island. It is often referred to as the ‘garden’ island of the Cook group and can be found 40 minutes by air northeast of Rarotonga.It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are indented with isolated sandy coves and caves.

Visitors should not miss a visit to the Oliveta Chruch at Kamiangatau, the ‘divided church’ built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. The church has two separate entrances and sitting areas for each village. The reason for this is at the time of construction a conflict arose between the two villages. This is evident in that the interior design clearly shows two very seperate artistic expressions and styles. The pulpit railing is also inlaid with Chilean dollars. 

Of the cluster of islands in the Southern Group called Nga Pu Toru (Atiu, Mitiaro and Mauke), this island would be the least visited by tourists. Not because it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is probably the least known.Mitiaro is somewhat different to its sisters in that it has two large freshwater lakes in its interior, Rotonui and Rotoiti. These are full of Itiki (freshwater eels) that are considered a delicacy in the Cook Islands and a popular dish on this island. Renowned as one of the friendliest, village life revolves around the Cook Islands Christian Church Betela - where visitors can experience the rousing hymns at Sunday Service.There are caves on Mitiaro and some delightful subterranean pools which offer a refreshingly cool place to swim. A smattering of small sandy beaches and coves can be found along the coastline.

The unique social fabric of this atoll arises from the last century when Englishman William Marsters settled here with his two Rarotongan wives. The resulting small population now share the same surname and speak a local dialect, itself a mixture of Cook Island and English languages. Accessible only by sea, a few adventurous travellers visit the island each year to experience life on this remote outpost. Palmerston is only slightly north of the Southern Group and consists of six islets surrounding a beautiful lagoon

Rarotonga is the vibrant centre of the Cook Islands and is where government resides.  Circular and only 32 km in circumference, it is dominated by high mountain peaks which rise to 653metres from which lush rain forests cascade and prvide a dramatic backdrop to a palm-fringed shore. The island is almost completely encircled by a reef, which harbours a lagoon of clear turquoise waters and many inviting white sand beaches. The motor scooter is a popular, fun way to see the sights, however bikes, cars and jeeps are also available from local rental agencies. The "Island Bus" offers a convenient low cost method of transport, operating regular schedules around the island (in both directions). It will pick you up and set you down anywhere on request. Avarua is the main town on the island and the commercial centre of the Cook Islands. During business hours, it has a friendly, bustling atmosphere together with a good selection of shops, banks, cafes and visitor facilities.

Takutea, a sanctuary declared to protect the breeding site of a number of seabirds, lies 50 miles northeast of Atiu. Members of the Atiu community make regular trips to the island to monitor the condition of the sanctuary.

Manihiki is a large atoll with a deep lagoon and sits atop an underwater mountain rising 4000 metres above the ocean floor.

Lying 1160 kilometers north of Rarotonga, Polynesians are beleived to have lived on Manihiki since 1500AD, although it was not discovered by Europeans until 1822, when it was sighted by the US ship Good Hope and named Humphrey Island.

Manihiki is one of two islands in the Cooks Group that produces pearls the other being Penrhyn.

These treasures from the ocean are produced only in the Cook Islands and French Polynesia, and are sought after throughout the world

Located 55 kilometres south of Pukapuka, the samll island of Nassau is covered with palms and is the only  island of the group without a lagoon. Nassau is a satellite community of Pukapuka with a population of approximately 100 people. The village is located in the north-west. Inland there are rich taro swamps and fruit groves, and of course off shore excellent fishing.There's no airport, so access is limited to inter-island ships from Rarotonga - a voyage of three days or interisland boat from Pukapuka which takes approximately 2 hours.

The northern most island of the Cook Islands, Penrhyn is located 1365 kilometres from Rarotonga and has the largest lagoon areas of the Cook Island's atolls, covering 233 square kilometres and measuring some 18 miles across with depths of up to 350 feet. The main village is, Omoka located in the west.Like its nearest neighbour Manihiki, copra production (the drying of coconut flesh for vegetable oil extraction) has now been replaced by pearl farming and shell products as a primary source of income. Known for its golden pearls (poe pipi) and sandy beaches cultured black pearl farming only began here recently. Penrhyn women make the finest rito craftwork (from young coconut fronds). Hats, bags, fans and mats made here are the best to be found in the Pacific.Sometimes called by its Maori name Tongareva, this is the most remote of the Cook Islands and almost 4 hours by air from Rarotonga. Flights are limted and dependant on demand.

Frisbie's 'Island of Desire', isolated insular and renowned for its unusual social customs, Pukapuka lies far to the north-west, nearly 800 miles from Rarotonga and 280 miles north-east of Samoa. Only recently opened up to air-services, the population have preserved innovative ways of sustaining a comfortable life almost oblivious to the outside world.

A substantially different dialect, finely woven mat and a passion for Kirikiti (island cricket of Samoan origin) are some of the things that set Pukapuka aside from the rest of the Cook Islands.Its remote location has kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries and they are perhaps more similar to those of Samoa due to its relatively close proximity. This is a beautiful atoll with untouched white sandy beaches and has excellent swimming and snorkelling with a reputation for its finely woven mats.

Situated 25 miles northeast of neighboring Manihiki, Rakahanga is an atoll with a picturesque, almost totally enclosed lagoon.

access is limited to a three hour ride by small craft from Manihiki or a three day voyage by inter-island ship from Rarotonga.

Picturesque and unspoiled, it consists of two major islands and seven small islets encompassing a central lagoon.

The main village, Matara, is near the south-west opening in the reef. Fishing and agriculture are the traditional employment. A number of residents find regular work in the pearl industry on nearby Manihiki.

Suwarrow was for many years the home of a New Zealand hermit, Tom Neale, who wrote of his life in a book - "An island to oneself".

Today a caretaker and his family live on the atoll for most of the year, their solitude disturbed only by the occasional visiting yacht. Suwarrow is now a conservation reserve.

This is one of the few atolls in the Northern Group with an accessible lagoon and occasional cruising yachties are amongst the fortunate few to visit its pristine shores. A true atoll, Suwarrow has one of the best harbours in the Pacific. The islets are the original treasure islands with buried chests from Spanish galleons being found there.

Cook Islanders look upon themselves as true Polynesians, with a proud heritage that connects directly with the finest seafarers of the vast Pacific. Voyaging on handmade canoes with none of the sophisticated navigation tools of today, they made their way fearlessly across vast tracts of ocean in search of new lands and beginnings.

According to tradition, the first voyagers to arrive in the Cook Islands landed on Rarotonga around 800 AD. These people had set sail from Tupua'i in what is now French Polynesia. Continuing the Polynesian habit of seabound exploration and migration, Cook Islands tradition also has it that the great Maori migrations to New Zealand began from Rarotonga as early as the 5th century AD.

The first written history of the Cooks began in 1595, prompted by the sighting of Pukapuka by the Spanish voyager Alvaro de Mendana. It took almost 150 years for the British to arrive, beginning again with a sighting of Pukapuka in 1764. Subsequently, the infamous Captain Bligh and his ship the HMS Bounty landed on Aitutaki in 1798.

1821 saw the arrival of the first Christian missionaries. Their influence spread quickly throughout the Cook Islands. But whilst the arrival of Christianity did alter many aspects of traditional island existence, the people of the Cook Islands have been able to preserve their proud Polynesian heritage alongside their Christian faith.

One final point: the name 'Cook Islands' was actually bestowed by the Russians, in honour of the great English navigator!

DEMOCRACY in the Pacific is a delicate flower. Some believe that occidental democratic systems of government sit uneasily with the traditional power structures of Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia. As many Western countries are now re-examining their own democracies sometimes with the objective of giving ordinary people a greater say in the workings of government, traditional Polynesian countries often find it uncomfortable having to cope with calls for more accountability from their political leaders.   Nearly all Pacific island nations have difficulty with the investigative, questioning attitude of privately-owned news media, particularly the printed media. Western democracies have long been used to this and, indeed, thrive on it. The role of the fourth estate is recognised and cherished in these societies as being one of the cornerstones of successful democracy.   It is very different in many Pacific island nations. Western Samoa, for example, has a recent history of demanding respect from journalists for matai (hereditary chiefs). The government also runs its own newspaper – a hair-raising prospect for Europeans and North Americans. In the Kingdom of Tonga in the late 1990s a journalist and a correspondent to a newspaper's letters column were arrested and convicted for "angering a public servant", namely, the Minister of Police. Democracy is not a popular word in Tonga and the struggles with the media continue to this day.

The Cook Islands culture is shaped by the arrival of Polynesians that took place around 800 AD.

Polynesian identity can be found in everyday life, in the many art galleries around the island of Rarotonga who exhibit local artists, in the carvings that adorn our buildings and homes, in dance and drama and at various events throughout the year, particularly during Te Maeva Nui Constitution Celebrations in July. This is a time to renew the warrior’s might and the dancer’s grace – a time when heritage excels. However, it is the songs of the Kaparima, the hymns of the Sunday choir, and pride in traditional crafts that exists in the day-to-day lives of our people.

Christianity plays an important role in their lives and Sunday is a day for celebration, prayer, families and singing. There are several denominations who\ welcome your attendance at church services on Saturdays or Sundays. An uplifting highlight of your visit will be the joyous sound of a Sunday choir.

Throughout the villages, at your hotel, or at the many attractions, you will be welcomed by the people and treated as a friend.

Unlike most western dancers, the islanders tell a story with their bodies that matches the words of the song. The dancing, accompanied by highly rhythmic drumming is taken very seriously, with each island having its own unique songs and dances that are practised from an early age.

The Cook Islanders are considered amongst the finest Polynesian singers and dancers. And there are many competitions throughout the year where the competitive spirit between each island comes to the fore. Regular international awards are a testament to this phenomenal talent.

Close harmonious singing can also be heard in churches along with the powerful and emotional impact of chants and hymns during weddings and funerals. This range and talent of popular singing can be found at numerous festivals throughout the year.

(Have a nice day)

(Thank you!!)