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LISBONReconquering the Atlantic joy

HISTORY NOTES

bmovingUseful tips

GaSTRONOmY & maIN EVENTS

bfunShows

blisbonLisbon perfect places

index

7 baroundPoints of interest

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Just over a decade ago, Lisbon was city immersed in pessimism and de-cadence. The Portuguese capital

was considered a declining place since the 14th and 15th centuries, when its ex-plorers set sail towards the unknown and discovered new territories which streng-thened the greatest Empire at the time. The metropolis began its rebirth thanks to being appointed European Capital of Cul-ture (1994) and above all with the World Fair (1998), focused on the oceans. Since then, it has found its place in tourist and business circuits, as well as reinforcing its image abroad. The warmth of its people, its lively nightlife and splendid location, spreading across several hills upon the broad estuary of the Tagus River, are its main distinctive features, marked by Atlan-tic influences. The Lisbon of the 21st Cen-tury, bright and mysterious, has left behind a fatalism now only present in the fados,

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Lisbonthe best known genre of Portuguese mu-sic. And it has become a vibrant city, mas-terly combing tradition and avant-garde, looking out towards the great ocean with deep African roots.

a practical guideLisbon, political, financial and cultural hub of Portugal, is placed upon the steep hills along the north bank of the Tagus. Its metropolitan area covers about one thousand square kilometres, with a population of 3.3 million people. Given the complex orographic characteristics of the city, this guide focuses on the sights of greatest interest, whether districts, monuments or museums, and does not inclu-de places which require long trips. Our purpose is to help you enjoy your stay in the Portuguese capital as much as possible.

HistoryNotesLegend has it that Ulysses founded Lisbon upon returning home after the Trojan War. The truth is it is not

known for certain whether it was the Gree-ks or the Phoenicians who founded it in 1200 a.C. and named it Olissipo, from Allis Ubo, which in Phoenician means “enchan-ted harbour”. At first Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians fought over it given its strategic location for maritime trade. It was the Romans who occupied it around 205 a.C., and named it Felicitas Julia. It was part of the colony of Lusitania and the most important city in the Iberian Peninsula when Julius Caesar was appointed gover-nor in the year 60 a.C. When the Roman Empire fell, the Barbarian tribes advanced from the north of Europe, and Alans and Swabians occupied the settlement. The Visigoths dominated the site when it was invaded in the year 711 by the Muslims from the north of Africa, who settled there for 450 years. There is still a legacy from that period in the winding streets of the district of Alfama.

First kingsThe first monarch of Portugal, Alfonso I Enríquez, expelled the Muslims in 1147, and built a Cathedral which housed the remains of Saint Vincent, martyr in the fight against the North Africans and later patron of Lisbon. In 1256, under the rule of Alfonso III, the city became the capital of Portugal to the detriment of Coimbra. With his son Dinis, commerce and culture of Lisbon grew, and in 1290, its first university was founded. The settlement extended to the foot of the São Jorge castle and the area of Baixa. After being plundered by the troops of Henry II of Castile in 1373, Ferdi-nand I ordered the construction of a new wall to protect the 40,000 inhabitants the city already had by then. Yet this barrier, practically impassable for the armies, was useless against the black plague, which spread hopelessly. Lisbon entered a phase of decline, which was overcome with verve thanks to the prosperity brought about by the age of discoveries.

Maritime powerAfter Christopher Columbus began his journeys in search of the Indies and ended up discovering the New World, many sai-lors dreamt of setting out to sea to try their luck. One of them was Vasco de Gama, who set sail in 1497 from Belém and ope-ned a real route towards the Indies along the coast of Africa. On 26th January 1531 the city suffered an earthquake in which thousands of people died. Nonetheless, the wealth obtained through the trade of spices, increased by those also coming from Brazil, turned the city into a power and the commercial hub of Europe. At that time, Manuel I erected the Tower of Belém and the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos to thank God for so much wealth. In the 16th century the Comercio square was laid out (previously known as Terreiro do Paço) opposite the river, giving rise to the Barrio Alto (Upper District), which was populated by tradesmen coming to settle in these lands. During that same time, the Inquisi-tion installed its reign of terror and many executions took place in the squares of Comercio and Rossio. Following the death of Sebastião I, the lack of heirs encoura-ged the Spaniards to occupy Portugal in 1580. The invading troops were not expe-lled until the year 1640, when the Duke of Bragança came to the throne as João IV. The gold discovered in Brazil in 1697 re-newed the city’s prosperity and King João V undertook ambitious urban development plans, including construction of the Águas Livres aqueduct, originating in the valley of Alcántara. A mayor part of the prosperity that had been accumulated during deca-des tumbled and fell in a few minutes. A devastating earthquake shook Lisbon on 1st November 1755, causing dozens of fires, leaving the city practically in ruins and killing over 15,000 people.

The Pombal projectsThe prime minister of José I, the Marquis of Pombal, took on the arduous task of reconstruction based on a grid design, with the city centre in the area of Baixa.

The efficiency with which the crisis was addressed and the vigorous undertaking of his plan turned him into the most relevant political figure of his time. When Napoleon invaded Portugal in 1807, the King was forced to flee to Brazil and the capital of the Empire moved to Rio de Janeiro. Many urban development projects remained unfulfilled and the metropolis entered a period of decline. The Napoleonic troops left Lisbon in 1811 and in time some of the initiatives of the Pombal plan were taken up again, such as the Triumphal Arch clo-sing the Rua Augusta, which was comple-ted in 1873.

Dictatorship and revolutionThe second half of the 19th Century saw an economic upturn. Roads and railways were built, as well as a retaining wall on the Tagus. In 1908 King Charles and his son Louis Philippe were assassinated as they were crossing Comercio square and two years later the monarchy fell. Antonio Oliveira Salazar established a dictatorship, but continued modernising Lisbon to the detriment of the rest of the country. In 1966 the Salazar bridge was built over the Tagus, later named Ponte 25 de abril to commemorate the renowned Carnation Revolution of 1974, which did away with the military regime.

Lisbon at the end of the 20th CenturyAfter the revolution, the country lived years of great euphoria and political changes. Portugal joined the European Community in 1986, which helped the economy deve-lop positively. In 1988, tragedy once again struck the capital of the country when a fire devastated the district of Chiado. The loss of assets was significant and the authorities commissioned one of the best architects in Portugal to rebuild it: Alvaro Siza Vieira. Lisbon was appointed Euro-pean Cultural Capital in 1994 and site of the World Fair in 1998 and of the European Football Championship in 2004, events which have allowed it to take a huge leap towards a greater role again.

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Reconquering the atlantic joy

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Moving around LisbonUseful tips

bmovingThe Portuguese capital, a place where all the culinary traditions of the country blend, has a diverse gastronomy with intense flavours and a Mediterranean influence. Its proximity to a large river such as the Tagus and an ocean like the Atlantic, favours a dominance of fish and seafood, with cod as the indisputable king. Prepared in a thousand ways –baked, fried and mixed with egg, grilled–, it is the main dish of the Portuguese and a national symbol. Soups are also very typical, such as caldeirada, a stew made with fish and seafood, pota-toes, tomatoes and peppers; the green broth, with potatoes, onion and sausages; sopa da pedra, a mixture of meat and vegetables; the Portuguese soup, with beans, carrots and broccoli; turnip green

Lisbon keeps the time set by the Green-wich meridian, that is, GMT + 1 from the last Sunday in March to the Saturday before the last Sunday in October, just like the United Kingdom and West Africa. It has an Atlantic climate, which influences rainfall above all, concentrated between October and April. It is rarely cold, as even in winter the temperature is mild. Nonetheless, the sun can be quite hot in summer and the humidity increases the mugginess. In Janu-ary, the thermometer reads an average of 12°C, while in July it goes over 24°C. The city enjoys many sunny days throughout the year, so we recommend using some protection, particularly during the sum-mer. Even so, the best time to visit the Portuguese capital is in summer, when the outdoor cafés and restaurants invite one to rest in the shade and let time go by lazily. Also, many popular festivals take place at this time. However, enjoying the city in the spring or autumn is also attractive.

The main sights can be visited combin-ing walking with trips on the underground, trams, buses or funiculars. The best is walking, since the city is relatively small and nearly all the sights of interest are located in the more central districts. However, it is quite steep, so it is a good idea resort-ing to buses, funiculars and elevators, which in turn provide amazing views. All means of transport belong to the public company Carris (www.carris.pt), except for the underground (www.metrolisbon.pt), whose network has been extended in the last few years. There are four lines (blue,

yellow, green and red) which operate daily from 6.30 am to 1.00 am. At its more than 40 stations are exhibits of leading artists. The train frequency ranges from three to ten minutes, depending on the time of day. Tickets can be bought at the stations or vending machines. Trams are one of the most pleasant ways to get to know Lisbon, although they only cover a very limited area of the city, along the river up to Belém and around the hills. There are two types of trams: the old models from the early 20th Century, and the new ones, far more modern and longer. The red trams, which travel to Colinas or Tejo, are rather more ex-pensive than the rest since they are tourist services. The network operates from 6.30 am to 12 midnight and, just like the under-ground, the ticket must be validated. Two of the most recommendable trams are the 25 and the 28. Transport by bus is more expensive than by underground, despite the fact that the service is more extended. The vehicles are yellow and their frequency ranges around fifteen minutes between 5.30 am and 1.00 am. At the stops, bear-ing the sign paragem, are details of each line’s route. You can buy 10-trip cards. Giv-en the mountainous terrain, funiculars and elevators are a convenient way of going from the river up to the highest areas of the city, such as Alfama, Barrio Alto and Graça. The service is somewhat expensive, but the views provided are a dream. There are bus, tram and underground passes available for one, three, four or seven days. All can be bought at the Carris kiosks. The tourist pass Lisbon Card allows you to access

most public transport, as well as museums and other places of interest. The company Transtejo operates most of the ferries which cross the Tagus towards Belém, Cais do Sodré and Terreiro do Paço. Taxis, a relatively inexpensive option, are beige in colour. You can get one in the street, at the ranks or call for one by telephone. The usual tip is 10%. Driving around Lisbon can try anybody’s patience due to the traffic jams and the aggressiveness of the drivers, so it is best to forget about the car for a few days and enjoy the Portuguese capital using other means of transport.

Lisbon is as safe as any other European city. As always, it is best to avoid solitary areas at night and to watch out for pick-pockets, who usually take advantage of distractions in the busiest areas. The thieves operate especially in areas such as Alfama, Barrio Alto and Cais do Sodré. It is best to leave all valuables at home or keep them out of the reach of crooks.

Banks normally open Monday to Friday from 8.30 am to 3 pm. There are plenty of ATMs in the city and many hotels, res-taurants and shops accept credit cards. Shops are usually open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 1 pm and from 3 pm to 7 pm, and on Saturdays from 9 am to 1 pm. De-partment stores and merchants in the areas with the most tourism do not shut down until later, and often do not close at midday. Tips are not mandatory, although in restau-rants and cafés 10% of the total is usually left if the service has been appropriate.

Gastronomysoup; and açorda de marisco, thickened with bread and seasoned with garlic. Sar-dines, squid and rice with seafood compri-se the rest of the delicacies from the sea. Coal-grilled fresh sardines are eaten espe-cially during the popular holidays in June, and are a must in traditional or outdoor restaurants, accompanied by peppers and seasoned with oil. Other typical dishes are snails, porco à alentejana –pork and clams with paprika–, Portuguese hotpot and feijoada, a stew with several types of meat, potatoes and legumes. Among the meats, spit roast piglet, pork trotters and frango à piri-piri (barbecued chicken with chilli) are some of the most succulent specialities. Sheep and goat cheeses, either fresh or cured, are usually delicious. In the last

few years, Lisboan cuisine has opened up to new trends, such as the Cape Verde recipes and Japanese specialities. As for desserts, you can choose between doce rice–rice pudding with lemon and cinna-mon–, Cascais walnuts or Belém cakes, all excellent examples of Portuguese sweets. Don’t forget to accompany your feasts with local wines such as the Nor-thern vinho verde or green wine, slightly sparkling and very smooth; bairrada, an intense red; or colares, from the region of Sintra. Not forgetting the muscatels and the world famous Port wine, a sweet wine most appropriate as an aperitif or to help digestion. The typical coffee of Lisbon is called bica and it is a very strong expresso served in a small cup.

much more than soups and cod

Epiphany6th January, Three King’s Day, is synony-mous of gifts and the traditional ring bun (bolo rei), which contains a bean and a small gift inside.

CarnivalCelebrated in February, though the dates vary from year to year. The parades, with spectacular costumes and floats, will delight everyone.

Procession of Senhor dos PassosThis religious event, dating back to the 16th Century, is held on the second Sunday in Lent in the district of Graça.

Spring FestivalOn the 25th March, concerts of all types of music are programmed at the Cultural Centre of Belém.

Lisbon Half MarathonThis international race over the 25 de Abril bridge is held between March and April. It is one of the most popular sports events in the city.

Mains events and HoLidays

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Liberty DayEvery 25th April, the triumph of the Car-nation Revolution, which put an end to decades of dictatorship without shedding any blood, is celebrated. There are mili-tary parades and political rallies at Imperio square.

Labour DayThe trade unions organise marches on 1st May to defend workers’ rights.

Book FairThe park Eduardo VII is the venue of this event held between May and June, one of the most important literary ones in Lisbon. Writers come to sign copies of their books.

City Holidays Throughout the month of June, the streets are decorated and lit and concerts and films are programmed outdoors as part of the festivities to honour Saints Anthony, John and Peter. The celebration of Saint Anthony, patron of Lisbon, is the start of the feasts of the Popular Saints.

Portugal DayCelebrated on 10th June.

International Theatre FestivalThis takes place on various stages between late July and August.

Fair of LightThis lively market specialising in ceramics is held in September in the district of Carnide.

Lisbon FashionThis biannual international fashion event attracts leading designers from all over the world in October.

Day of the Republic Every 5th October, the end of the monar-chy is commemorated in 1910 with military parades.

Lisbon MarathonBetween November and December, de-pending on the year, thousands of profes-sionals and amateurs run the same stretch of 42 kilometres and 192 metres (www.lisbon-marathon.com).

Independence DayIndependence from Spain in 1640 is cel-ebrated on 1st December.

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blisbon

BelémThis historical district is a bit distant from the city centre, on the bank of the Tagus, and its main tourist attractions are the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Tower of Belém. From this area, caravels would set sail towards new horizons and therefore, it is not surprising that Belém still retains something from that golden age, when Portugal ruled the world and, especially, the oceans. The district, which at the time was a village near the capital, knew how to take advantage of the imperial expansion and the arrival of riches, and undertook the building of great monuments and churches reflecting the power of the time. The broad streets, museums, gardens, as well as the river promenade and the enormous Imperio square, invite one to stroll through the area while sightseeing. Coming here is quite easy: the best thing to do is take tram 15, which leaves from Comercio square. The trip takes about twenty minutes.

alfamaThe oldest streets of Lisbon are located around the castle of São Jorge and provide some of the most authentic images of the Por-tuguese capital and, undoubtedly, the best views. Alfama, as its name shows, maintains a certain Muslim influence, although it was actually created during the time of the Visigoths. Traditionally it was an upper-class residential district, until a series of earthquakes destroyed some of its buildings and its wealthiest inhabitants decided to move to the west of the city. Workers and fishermen took their place and, through a twist of fate, few were saved from the terrible earthquake of 1755. We recommend touring this area early, when shops are beginning to open and you can breathe the village atmosphere that is so difficult to find in other areas of the capital. Visitors will find fruit stands, women watching passers-by from their balconies and fish sellers in the Rua de São Pedro. At night, the locals come out to chat at their doorsteps or gather at the taverns, although it must be remembered that some areas are quite empty. It has several of the most outstanding monuments, such as the cathedral and the castle, inside of which the minute district of Santa Cruz survives. The abundance of venues offering fado performances is another one of the attractions of this district, which maintains a similar layout to the kasbahs, where buildings crowd upon steep streets and steps, concealing their façade behind laundry hung to dry in the sun. In the maze of alleys, there are many popular restaurants with pleasant outdoor tables. Trams 12 and 28 run from Alfama to Baixa, as well as several buses, such as the 37.

Barrio alto (upper district)Built in the 16th Century, it is one of the most picturesque and typical of the city and was initially inhabited by wealthy Lisboans coming from Alfama. It is usually a very lively meeting point for the young of Lisbon and is probably the main nightlife area. Its name is due to the fact that it is located north of Baixa and Chiado, going up one of the surrounding hills. With labyrinthine streets, in recent years it has become a showcase of Portuguese fashion, after overcoming an age of decline and questionable reputation in the 19th Century. Thanks to its recent prosperity, the number of restaurants, art galleries, fashionable bars, fado houses and charming hotels has grown significantly.

ChiadoThis area of fashionable shops and old cafés goes down towards Baixa, the urban centre laid out by the Marquis de Pombal after the earthquake of 1755. This district suffered a fire in August 1988 which destroyed many of its homes, since the fire lorries could not ac-cess the pedestrian zone and the fire spread inevitably. The flames razed remarkable buildings from the 18th Century, especially on the Rua do Carmo. Today you can walk through this area of Lisbon without noticing any traces of the tragedy and admiring the beautiful homes that were rebuilt. Chiado was always a district of intellectuals, as can be seen by the abundance of statues dedicated to literary figures, among them the one to the poet Fernando Pessoa. The Rua Garrett, the main artery of the area, owes its name to another poet, João Almeida Garrett, and is famous for its boutiques, cafés and bookshops.

BaixaThe heart of the Portuguese capital was built upon the ruins of the city destroyed by the terrible earthquake of 1755. Its urban plan-ning, comprised of streets in a grid and almost identical buildings, is due to the Marquis de Pombal. The plan took a while to be undertaken, specifically not until 1873, when construction was completed of the triumphal arch that closes the Rua Augusta. Life in this district revolves around the squares Comercio, Figueira and del Rossio, where you can feel the hustle and bustle of 21st Century Lisbon, except in the Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, a pedestrian street with excellent seafood restaurants. The difficult geography of Lisbon is often striking for visitors. From one district to another the hills are so steep there are even lifts to cover the most difficult ones. The most famous of these urban lifts is the one of Santa Justa, joining Baixa with Chiado, where the do Carmo church stands out, in its day the largest one in the city and currently a reminder of the 1755 earthquake.

São BentoLocated east of the Barrio Alto, downhill, it originally held the first black community of Lisbon comprised of immigrants mostly from Cape Verde. On Rua de São Bento is one of the historical venues of the metropolis: the home –turned into a museum– of the greatest fado glory, Amália Rodrigues. This area is also known for the palace of São Bento, which houses the Portuguese parliament.

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Castle of São JorgeThis fortress dominates the city from the highest point of the seven hills, over the districts of Baixa and Alfama. Romans, Visigoths and Arabs occupied this site, which was a royal residence in the 12th Century until the 16th Century. In 1511 Manuel I fancied having a more luxurious palace where the Comercio square is currently located, and this castle was then used as a theatre, prison and arms deposit. You can walk along its walls, towers and gardens, which was rebuilt in the 1940s, after the earthquake of 1755 left part of its structure in ruins. In the small inner district of Santa Cruz, the atmosphere is very typical, with plaster falling from façades, paved alleys, pots brimming with flowers and laundry hanging from windows. The views of Lisbon from this fortress are matchless. In the summer several festivals take place within the site and the small restaurant Casa do Leão opens, serving traditional dishes. You can also attend a multimedia exhibition on Lisbon in the 16th century at Olisiponia and go into the camera obscura of the Ulysses Tower, where pan-oramic views of the city are projected on the walls.

Belém tower This is one of the most famous monuments in Lisbon, more beautiful on the outside than inside. This white stone building, built in the early 16th Century by order of Manuel I to defend the river, was the last thing sailors would see when they ventured on epic journeys. This is where mariners embarked towards the unknown, this is why it is considered a symbol of territorial expansion for Portugal. A statue of the Virgin of the Joyful Return with Child looks towards the sea, as if wishing to surround even today the intrepid with her protective halo. This is an excellent example of Manueline architecture, characterised by having an imaginative naval theme, with carved stones imitating cordage, battlements in the shape of shields and Moorish watchtowers. A passageway leads to a museum inside the tower.

mosteiro dos JerónimosThis 16th-century building, also located in the district of Belém, is another one of the few examples of medieval Manueline architecture still standing. It has been catalogued by Unesco, together with the Tower of Belém, as a World Heritage site. Here lie the remains of Vasco da Gama, the sailor who overcame the feared cape of Good Hope and opened the route towards India, and of one of the most renowned writers of the country, Luís de Camões. The monastery, a monument to the grandeur of the age of discoveries, was erected thanks to the money raised with taxes on the trade of spices, precious gems and gold. It was occupied by the order of Saint Jerome until 1834, the year religious orders were freed of encumbrance. It is worthwhile noting the arches and the cloister balustrade, deco-rated with traceries and beautiful figures; the refectory, partially covered with 16th-century tiles and a mural devoted to the miracle of the bread and the fish; and the south portico, with exuberant ornamentation. And to finish, you must not miss seeing the impressive vault of the church of Saint Mary, supported by slender octagonal columns. The west wing from 1850 where the former dormitory of the monks used to be, houses the National Museum of Archaeology, exhibiting wonders such as a gold bracelet form the Iron Age and Visigoth jewels found in Alentejo, in the south of Portugal.

National museum of antique artPortugal’s national gallery has painting and sculpture collections dating from the 12th Century and it is located in a 16th-Century palace. The ground floor houses works of European schools from the 14th to the 19th Centuries, as well as period furniture. Asian and African art, Chinese and Portuguese ceramics, and silver, gold and jewels are shown on the first floor. The top floor is devoted to Por-tuguese painting and sculpture. Among the most remarkable pieces is a ceramic violin decorated with portraits of the Italian Baroque composers Scarlatti and Corelli, an ivory saltcellar from Benin (Africa), a 16th-Century Japanese folding screen with illustrations on trade with the Portuguese, and The adoration of Saint Vincent, a polyptych from 1470 attributed to Nuno Gonçalves.

Tram 28This legendary route is a tourist attraction in itself which allows enjoying some of the best views of the old part of the Portuguese capital and the River Tagus. It is comprised of trams that date back to the early 20th Century and it shares some stretches with the 25, another tram of interest for tourists. Specifically it passes the palace of São Bento and goes up to the Barrio Alto and Chiado. Then it goes down through Baixa, runs next to the cathedral and finishes its journey at the São Jorge castle. Most of its passengers are tourists.

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST

monument to the DiscoveriesErected on the bank of the Tagus, in Belém, it was built in 1960 by the Salazar regime to commemorate the 500 years since the death of Henry the Navigator, who established the basis for the maritime expansion of Portugal by funding expeditions along the African coast. It is 52 metres tall and honours all those who participated in the discoveries, from sailors up to royal skippers. Shaped as a cara-vel, it is topped by Henry the Navigator and the two descending rows feature statues of Portuguese heroes of that time, such as King Manuel I, Vasco de Gama, the poet Camões, the painter Nuno Gonçalves, Magallanes… A lift takes you to the top of the monument, from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of Belém and the river. The basement is used for temporary exhibitions. North of the monu-ment is a colossal compass rose painted on the ground, a gift of the government of South Africa.

SéThe cathedral of Lisbon was built by the first King of Portugal, Alfonso I Enríquez, in 1150, in the Romanic style, although today it looks different due to the reconstruction which was carried out after the earthquake of 1755. The cloister dates back to the 13th Century and the Baroque vestry houses the remains of Saint Anthony, the patron of the city, as well as other treasures. The cathedral, on the site of the former mosque, also has a small museum. Presiding the façade are two crenelated twin towers and a rosette, leading into an austere interior. The Franciscan chapel still has the font where the saint was baptised in 1195, decorated with tiles.

Santa Justa LiftIn the heart of Lisbon, near the street do Ouro, is this public lift that helps communicate the areas of Baixa, Chiado and Barrio Alto. Made of cast iron in Neo-Gothic style by Raoul Nesnier du Ponsard, disciple of Gustave Eiffel, it is one of the most amazing constructions in the metropolis. It was inau-gurated in 1902 and first worked on steam, before being electrically powered. The ancient machine slowly covers a 32-meter high slope. Sometimes you have to wait for a while, since only a maximum of 25 people can ride each one of its two cabs. Once at the top, a passageway connects the lift with Largo do Carmo. At the top of the tower there is an outdoor café affording spectacular views over the district of Baixa.

baroundpoints of interest

The main tourist office, located at Comercio square, provides information on the ground floor and has a souvenir shop on the second one. Below are the details:

Lisbon Welcome CenterRua do Arsenal, 15210 312 700www.visitlisboa.comatl@visitlisboa.comIt opens Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm and Sundays from 10 am to 6 pm.

There are also tourist offices at Portela airport and Santa Apolonia station.

INFORMATION

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TheatrePlays are performed in Portuguese, but stages such as the National Theatre Dona Maria II and the Teatro da Trindade regu-larly feature foreign companies. Below are the main details in this regard:

National Theatre Dona Maria IIPraça de Dom Pedro IV213 250 800www.teatro-dmaria.pt

Centro Cultural de BelémPraça do Imperio213 612 400www.ccb.ptOrganises conferences, festivals, concerts, opera, theatre and dance.

Teatro da TrindadeLargo da Trindade, 9213 420 000www.teatrotrindade.inatel.pt

ChapitôCosta do Castelo, 1-7218 855 550www.chapito.org

MusicThe musical offer is very diverse, rang-ing from classical music to fado, and also rock, jazz and African rhythms. The Portuguese Symphony Orchestra is based at the Teatro Camões, located

shows

Despite its modest size compared to other European capitals, Lisbon has a diverse cultural and sports agenda, combining established proposals with new trends. The Gulbenkian Foundation, the greatest patron of arts, sponsors various cultural activities and funds its own orchestra, as well as libraries, ballet companies and auditoriums. Football is the favourite sport in Portugal, and the capital has two teams: Sporting and Benfica.

at the site where the Expo’98 was held, the Parque das Naçoes. The Gulbenkian Orchestra and choir with the same name perform at one of the auditoriums and the amphitheatre of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation (www.gulbenkian.pt), while the National Theatre São Carlos (www.saocar-los.pt) is where opera productions are pre-sented from September to June, as well as classical music concerts. Another excellent recital hall, especially due to the diversity of its programmes, is Coliseo dos Recreios (www.coliseulisboa.com). Fado takes up a good part of the musical programmes in the Portuguese capital, although there are many other clubs in which to be carried away by other styles, such as B Leza, Enclave and Hot Clube, probably the best one to listen to good jazz live. And finally, you will be wondering where you can enjoy fados live. The answer is as simple as it is diverse, since there are several venues, such as Arcadas do Faia, Casa do Fado, Clube do Fado, Señor Vino, Taverna do Embuçado and Parreirinha de Alfama.

CinemaFilms are shown in their original language with subtitles in Portuguese. As is the case nearly in all countries, traditional cinemas have been engulfed by multiplex ones located in large shopping centres, such as Amoreiras, Colombo and El Corte Inglés, showing mostly Hollywood films. Lovers

of avant-garde cinema can go to Londres or King Triples, where European films are shown. The Portuguese Cinematheque organises retrospectives of classic films.

DanceThe national ballet company, known as the Nacional de Bailado (www.cnb.pt), is based at the Teatro Camões. The Cultural Centre of Belém and the Calouste Gulben-kian Foundation also offer ballet shows..

SportsFootball rules the sports arena and is represented in the capital by two leading teams, Sporting and Benfica, which usu-ally compete in championships against the Oporto. The city also organises prestigious athletics competitions, such as the half marathon, held between March and April, and the marathon, which takes place between November and December (www.lisbon-marathon.com). All other prominent sports events, such as the Motorcycle Grand Prix and tennis and golf tourna-ments, take place in Estoril, a few kilome-tres away from Lisbon.

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