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“Reel-Lines are made of horse-hair (from the tail), of silk, or silk and hair mixed, of In-dian-weed, and of silkworm gut. It is usual for the amateur fisherman to purchase these lines, which are made by a small ma-chine, but sometimes the angler prefers making them himself, and if at all handy, he may do this with great advantage by the fol-lowing mode, which is much superior to the twisting-machine, because it admits of the

introduction of fresh hair with much greater facility.

In Making the horse-hair line, first procure a quantity of good hair, which may be bought at the shops; but if it can be obtained from a good young chestnut horse with a flaxen-tail so much the better. When such a horse is docked, a considerable portion of his tail with the hair attached is removed, and that is the very best for the present purpose. A grey horse with a silver mane will give white hair, which requires staining, but the colour of the flaxen mane is as good as any art can give. Young hair is twice as strong as the milk-white hair, which is peculiar to old horses. Next procure three pieces of strong goose-quill, each about half an inch long, and fit loosely into them three pieces of deal three or four inches long ; then divide your hair intended for your line into three equal portions ; thus, if your line is to be of eighteen hairs altogether, then let each of your quills receive six, leaving about four inches projecting ; then push in the sticks gently, and ties the loose ends together, as shown in the annexed woodcut (fig. 1). The knot formed by the union of the three divi-sions is to be attached to some fixed object by a pin; then take out each stick, one after the other, and pass the quill up to within an inch of the knot, replace the stick, and take two of them in the left hand. The remaining stick is to be gently twisted from right to left, and when sufficiently so, passed over the other two also from right to left, when it should be grasped by the left hand, gently keeping up a slight strain upon the knot. At this time the three are in the position shown in the woodcut; then let the angler take hold of a d, draw it towards him about a quarter of an inch, allowing the hair to slip through the space between quill and wood; twist it as before, and pass it over to the left. Re-peat this with b e, and then with c f, when a

(Continued on page 26)

Figure 1

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b will again occupy the same position as at first. By carrying on this process a line may soon be turned out of great strength, and of any degree of tightness of twist ; but if too tight, it will be liable to be entangled, or to kink, as it is generally called. As soon as the angler has mastered this part of the process, and has twisted a few inches of line, he must divide the remaining length of his hair into the same number of portions as he has hairs in his line and cut off one hair at each of these lengths, so that he may spice his line regularly throughout its whole length. As soon as one of these cut ends appears loose above the head of the quill, the stick must be removed, and an-other hair of full length inserted and twisted in with the rest, and so on with every suc-ceeding break. In this way the line appears, when finished, to be furnished with a series of projecting hairs, but these may be re-moved without danger with a knife, or scis-sors, or a taper, previously soaking the whole line for twenty-four hours in water. The line may also be gradually reduced in size at the pleasure of the maker, by omit-ting to insert fresh hairs. By this mode all links and joints are avoided, and the line is everywhere within one hair of the full strength with which it would be furnished if joined in links in the ordinary way.”

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Figure 2

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(Continued on page 29)

Figure 4

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“he must divide the remaining length of his hair into the same number of portions as he has hairs in his line and cut off one hair at each of these lengths, so that he may spice his line regularly throughout its whole length. As soon as one of these cut ends appears loose above the head of the quill, the stick must be removed, and another hair of full length inserted and twisted in

(Continued on page 30)

Figure 6

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with the rest, and so on with every suc-ceeding break.”"

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! ;7&+'" '*&+" +'-#8$" #8$" 4#++" &'" ,>3-" '*3"(Continued on page 31)

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(Continued on page 32)

Figure 7

Quigley’s Furled Leaders Silk or Uni-Thread.

Thousands sold Worldwide!

Shipping is FREE & Immediate"Unsurpassed for dry fly fishing.

For more Info or To Order…

http://www.fallrun.com/Furled.html

415-272-4541

For more info or to order … Click Here

! " # $ % & ' ( ( ) & * + , # " - . & / 0 1 & 2 3 4 . & / ' &

Here are a few tips on inserting new hair.""

! [&-+'("*#>3"#66",1".,0-"*#&-"4-34#-3$"#8$"-3#$." '," 9," /31,-3" .,0" +'#-':" e,0" 7&66"833$"#/,0'"abb"*#&-+:"]3635'"'*3"*#&-"#8$"'-&%"#/,0'"TG",11"'*3"'&4"',"-3%,>3"73#<"#-3#+"#8$"1-#.+:";*38(" '0-8"*#61",1"'*3%"38$2',238$:" ;," *,6$" '*3" *#&-" 08'&6" !" #%"-3#$."',"0+3"&'("!"56&4"&'"&8"#"+4-&89"C#"16."'.3-)+" %#'3-&#6" 56&4" &+" 43-135'" 1,-" '*&+D"7&'*" #/,0'" aG" ,1" ,83" 38$" +'&5<&89" ,0':";*&+"%#<3+" &'" 5,8>38&38'" '," 9-#/" #" +&82963"*#&-"',"#$$"',"'*3"6&83:""

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Finishing the Line

R*38" .,0" -3#5*" '*3" 6&83)+" 1&8#6" 6389'*(" '&3" #8",>3-*#8$" <8,'" &8" '*3" 38$" #8$" 56&4" '*3" *#&-+" ',"3>38"'*3%"04:""

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(Continued on page 33)

Figure 8

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Use and Care

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(Continued on page 34)

Figure 9

Figure 10

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