LEG 4 DUBROVNIK to SPLIT

HOW EXCITING TO HAVE THREE TASMANIANS SAILING THE ADRIATIC AND THE DALMATIAN

COAST!

Ian and Vicki Pearce arrived in Dubrovnik ready for a great adventure: a treat for the Birthday

Boy!

May 23 was great day for getting on supplies as the weather forecast was predicting gales and

rain.

All stocked up we make an early get away and a short shake down hop back to Okuklje, home of

Maran’s yummy food! After a while the wind fills from the SW and Ian is able to squeeze 6.4k on

a reach to Mljet with jib safely half furled in case of “squirts”. Vicki enjoys the breeze and the

stable comfort of Manca’s heavy ballasted keel.

Our first sail out of Dubrovnik to

Mljet

The master at the helm of the First

44.7 Great concentration!

We easily make Okuklje (a small cove with a few houses and two cafes), do a perfect job of

backing and picking up the “lazy lines” just before the random gusts, bullets and squirts begin

from the hills and saddles that completely surround the bay!

The afternoon is whiled away with walks to the Chapel where the Birthday Boy makes one short

bell pull for his 69th! Happy Birthday Ian!

Ring the Okuklje bell for the Birth Day Boy

(An aside: off stage! As I write a very large Croatian, with hands the size of a small elephant foot,

has squeezed his massive body into the aft head. Here he is taking off doors, heaving on pipes; in

an attempt fix the plugged toilet! Oh boy sailing is fun!)

Later that evening we have a guitar jam session by the dock calling up long forgotten tunes from

the past! Some docksiders smile and yes: there is applause!

Jam session at Maran's Café

Jam at Maran’s

Happy hour over we have a 1930 date with some oven baked fish and a few liters of the house

red. Maran is quite the Chef!

Slow baked fish in covered oven

Ian and Vicki enjoy Maran's great

hospitality

8 A great dish of scorpion fish

potatoes and...

May 25 is the birthday of Marshall Tito and Mr. Ian Pearce. It was also a full May moon. We

decide to wait out the scary, changeable forecast, enjoy Okuklje and have a quiet celebration

with Ian. The fried calamari is soft, sweet, juicy and tasty. Ian has been sailed, wined and dined in

style!

We enjoy a great hot breakfast. Life is good! Thanks Vicki. Ian is good on the dishes!

Thanks Vicki for a hot breakfast!

Well other things happen on full moons. The aft head is completely bunged up. A lovely job

ahead for Terry.

May 26 a late start for Polace on the NE end of Mljet. It is an easy distance for us. We weave our

way around the many small islands guarding the entrance to the ancient harbor. The old Roman

castle comes into view. Yep we’ve found the right place: Polace! The nasty squalls have gone and

now no wind. We putter up to the Bourbon café and quickly tie stern to in clear, clean, 6 meters;

just before the squalls and rain start again! Oh what luck!

The Roman castle comes into view in

Polace

Very fine dinig here

During the afternoon Vicki and Ian enjoy a stroll around the ancient forest and hamlet. I struggle

for three hours with the ****** head. I manage to clear it a bit but still stuffed solid. Oh! The

joys of the yacht owner.

The aromas from Bourbon café are amazing. We take the 15 metres walk up from Manca to

enjoy some five star dining:

Sardine starter

Grilled octopus appy

Terry: delicious tender wild boar with polenta,

Vicki: barbie lamb chops

Ian: barbie calamari Salad and Red wine.

No room for desert!

Bourbon staff prepare our meals

A five star feast

May 27 the very helpful owner of Bourbon Cafe arranges Ivo a local fellow with hands the size of

small elephant feet…see above…to fix the head. He has now been at it for three hours and is

nearly done. Excellent news!

Vicky and Ian have gone off to the wonderful little monastery – Sveta Marija - on the island of St

Mary’s in the lake of Veliko Jezero. So incredibly cute for the Benedictine Monks to arrange all

that for us!

Ian at St Mary’s chapel

The cloisters

I have just shared a Karlovačko with Ivo. We toast the renovated head! What a nice kind man.

”Pay me next time you are back if you don’t have 400 kuna!” So nice to have the head working

again. Sweet!

I now I hope to clean up and catch Ian and Vicky at the Monastery!

Dedication to sailors

Manca at Polace

Safey docked at Bourbon café

Tomorrow we plan to sail to Korcula site of an incredible naval battle.

Nite!

May 27 2013

WE SAIL INTO ANCIENT KORCULA

May 28 plans to leave the pleasures of Bourbon café behind are scrapped as we check the

forecast over and over only to find repeated bad weather ahead. So we end up with another

night of wonderful food; sharing octopus and calamari.

May 29 the weather is now safe but, oh boy, no wind! We putter off to Korcula. We arrive nice

and early. Ian and Vicki do a perfect job of picking up the lazy line and tying off the bow line. We

are docked right under the ancient city walls with an excellent view across the channel. We have

time to explore and ramble around the narrow back streets. A local young woman guards the

diorama of Marco Polo in jail after being on the losing side of the naval battle of Korcula

between the Venetians and Genoas. (Not sure but I think the Venetian lost 400 ships!). Marco

Polo, according the young guide, spent a few days here before being sent back to Venice.

VICKI

APPROACHING KORCULA FROM THE SEA

KORCULA RAMPARTS

CANON

YIKES THIS CANNON IS AIMED AT MANCA

IAN AND VICKI KORCULA HARBOR

KORCULA WOMAN

THREE TASMANIANS IN KORCULA

MARCO POLO IN PRISON CELL KORCULA

STEPS TO THE CITY GATE KORCULA

T SHIRTS OF KORCULA

THE MANY NARROW STREETS OF KORCULA ARE UNCHANGED

MUCH OF KORCULA IS BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED

THERE ARE MANY SHIP WRECKS IN THE

CHANNEL OF KORCULA

MANCA SAFE FROM THE APROACHING STORM

In the evening we are treated to an exquisite risotto on board prepared by Vicki! Ian is super at

the dishes! I could get to like this voyage! The same night an incredible storm of thunder,

lightening, pounding rain, hail and violent winds screeches through the dock.

A STROLL AROUND THE VINYARDS OF LUMBARDA

May 30 the forecast is again scary- (oh and as I write on June 1st, with only 7-10 forecast, a gust

of 30 has just ripped through the “completely protected Marina Palmizana) - so we decide to

stay put. In the afternoon we hire a taxi to take us wine tasting in the ancient Lambarda

vineyards where for centuries past they have developed a super white: “Grk”. The vintner

entertains us for a while; we stroll to a local beach, an easy walk past the vineyards, admire a

nicely restored church then back to the little port of Lambarda where we enjoy a cold toceno

(draft) beer with our driver.

LUMBARDA VIEW

LUMBARDA HARBOR

A SMALL CHAPEL IN THE VINYARDS LUMBARDA

WE ENJOYED A BEAUTIFUL WALK AMONG THE

VINEYARDS

THE SUN PASSING BEHIND THE SPIRE LUCKY SHOT

SUN DIAL TIME AND RESTORED CLOCK TOWER

DID NOT QUITE AGREE

WE TASTED THE POPIC FAMILY WHITE VERY

GOOD SMALL PRODUCTION

YACHT SAILS BY LUMBARDA VINYARDS

TASMANIANS THREE

In the evening we are astounded by a stunning performance: “The Seven Dances of the Swords”.

The Red Knights are determined to recapture the Princess from the Black Nights. We were asked

not to sit in the front rows! The swirling slashing, crashing, heaving, thrusting of the heavy knives

was indeed dangerous! Sparks flew from the swirling blades. The noise evoked a real battle.

Pieces of handles break off and fly across the stage. Blades of the heavy steel bend. The

performers, as they plunge on, get sweaty and begin to tire. Blood is dripping from the hands of

some of the younger men until finally with the last chaotic frenzy the Black Nights give up and

the damsel in great distress is handed back to her love… The Red Night! We are exhausted from

watching the famous show that has toured the world. The director proudly explains that Korcula

is the only town now that preserves this ancient sword dance: “THE MORESKA.”

The double handed knife slashing 7

dances.

The night continues with more thunderstorms.

May 31 the forecast looks ok. We are up early and ready to leave at about 0800. The heavens go

crazy!

HAIL STONES POUND THE DECK OF MANCA

A raging storm pounds the deck of Manca for 2 hours. It stops the forecast is still ok. We leave

Vela Luka on the west end of Korcula. We exit the naval battle grounds and then! The sky goes

black and explodes once more. Off to port, a water spout grows and appears to be advancing on

Manca. The wind builds. The rain starts! A new forecast suggests strong overnight westerlies and

more thunderstorms. Three sailing guides all agree: “Vela Luka is open to westerly winds”! We

alter course for Palmizana on St Klement island near Hvar and well protected from all winds. We

complete the 36.6nm in time for happy hour and a nice cold beer!

Later we take a short stroll over the Klement Island. Here we find a beautiful sheltered cove, a

beach and A 4-5 star restaurant. In the evening glow we enjoy super food, “St. Klement Cabernet

Sauvignon” from the island, stuffed peppers and a Kilo of grilled and fried tasty squid!

THE LOCAL GRK GRAPE WHITE IS SUPERB

HVAR: A WALK TO THE RAMPARTS

June 1 we wait for the rain to clear. Eventually in the early afternoon we take the pricey “sea

taxi” (minimum 500 kunas or 68 euros) to Hvar for a ramble about the fortified city. The ride is

fun!

WE ENJOY A FIGH SPEED, HIGH PRICED RIDE

FROM ST.KLEMENT TO HVAR

F

First is a stagger up the steps to the ramparts. Then the path eases off snaking around the base,

affording great views while your aching lungs try to recover.

Guess which one is the wise man from Hvar!

Vicki making a determined attack of the Hvar fort

Stunning views of Hvar on the path to the top

Late rains this year have kept the flowers blooming

Some of the coats of arms inside the castle

Black bird preening.

The red rooves of Hvar

The guns silent the flowers can grow

Ian and Vicki keeping the powder dry.

Hvar Castle Lupi coat of arms

Wild sage grows on the Hvar ramparts. Next day

we pass the islands and sail west to beautiful VIS

just out of the photo to the right.

VIS WHAT A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE ISLAND

AFTER IAN SAILED US AWAY FROM HVAR WE ENJOYED TWO LAZY DAYS ON THE BEAUTIFUL

ISLAND OF VIS. IT IS WONDERFUL THAT AFTER THE TROUBLES, THE ARMY HAS DESERTED THE

STRONG HOLD AND SOMETIME AGO VIS IS BECAME A DESTNATION FOR MANY SAILORS. I WAS

LAST THERE IN 2008. NOW FACILITIES FOR YACHTIES ARE GREATLY IMPROVED WITH MANY

SPACES FOR DOCKING AND IN THE CORNER BY KUT A LOT OF MOORING BOUYS. IN ADDITION IN

KUT A NEW DOCK IS BEING BUILT OUT OF BEAUTIFULLY FINISHED MARBLE.

JUNE 3 VICKI DID A GREAT JOB OF ARRANGING A 4X4 TOUR OF VIS. INTO THE BACK ROADS AND

VINYARDS WE ROAMED TASTING THE GREAT WINES AND ENJOYING SPECTAULAR VIEWS OT THE

MOUNTAINS, FARMS, COAST LINE AND DISTANT SMUDGE OF ITALY OFF TO THE WEST.

VIS STILL HAD WONDERFUL FLOWERS IN JUNE;

UNSEASONALL RAINS TO HELP THEM ALONG.

DAWN PAINTS A BEAUTIFUL WATER COLOUR

OVER VIS HARBOUR

THE CENTURIES OF FARMERS HAVE PILED UP

THE ROCKS TO MAKE WAY FOR VINES AND

VEGGIES

THE PILED ROCKS OF ANCIENT FARMERS' HARD

WORK CREATING VINYARDS.

IAN DREAMING OF BIG REDS. BENEATH HIS FEET A NEW VINYARD HAS BEEN

PLANTED.

FROM THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN OF VIS WE

COULD LOOK DOWN ON KOMIZA.

The fort is centre of photo.

KOMIZA AND LOOKING NORTH WEST

KOMIZA HARBOUR AND THE TERRACED FARM

LANDS. VIS AND KOMIZA ARE RIVALS FOR

EVERYTHING!

THERE HAS BEEN A BURST OF VINYARD

EXPANSION. THE HUNGRY LIMESTONE SOILS

PRODUCE GOOD DRY WHITES.

VIS OFFERS SOME GREAT ANCHORAGES IF THE

WIND IS RIGHT. BUT LOOK AT THE WHITE

HEADLANDS. STORMS HAVE REMOVED ALL

VEGETATION 20 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL.

LEA, OUR LOCAL GUIDE WAS GREAT FUN. SHE KNEW HER ISLAND HISTORY.

THE PHEASANT MALES ARE THE ONLY ALLOWED

TARGET. THE HUNTING IS POPULAR BUT

CONTROLLED TO PRESERVE THE SPORT AND THE

BIRDS.

APPARENTLY THE LOCALS HAVE A VERY SPECIAL WALK. COULD BE THE

MOUNTAINS OR THE WINE. RESEARCH CONTINUES.

GOOD TO SEE THE RESTORATION OF THE

ROOF.THE GREEK THEATRE IS UNDER THE

MONASTERY

THE SMALL POPULATION OF VIS IS WELL SERVED

WITH A LARGE FERRY

AFTER THE STORMY WEATHER I HAD TO SAY GOOD BYE TO AN OLD

FRIEND. 5 YEARS OF A SALTY LIFE ON MANCA IN THE MED HAD RUSTED

HIS BONES: BYE CHARLIE!

LEA, VICKI, IAN ENJOY JAM TASTING, COOKIES,

WINE AND HERBS

VIEW OF TWO SMALL HAMLETS: VIS AND KUT

BOTTOM LEFT.

LEA AND THE 4X4 HELPED US EXPORE THE

BACKROADS AND NEWLY PLANTED VINYARDS.

HEAD AND SHOULDERS ABOVE THE THREE

TASMANIANS, THE TALL CROATIAN LEA WAS A

GREAT GUIDE!

WILD LILLIES OF VIS THRIVE IN THE OLIVE

GROVES

GREAT WINE TASTING! A GIGANTIC BARREL IS

SET INTO THE WALL. LEA HAD TAKEN WINE

TASTING COURSES. LONG LEGS ON THE REDS

WITH A WESTERLY WIND THE ANCIENT SAILORS

COULD SAIL RIGHT INTO VIS AND THE

PROTECTED HARBOR

VICKI WAS GOOD AT SPOTING SPECIAL LOCAL DISHES: FISH

SOUP WITH WHITE BEANS

MILNA, MASLINICA, KREMIK, PRIMOSTEN, SKRADIN AND KRKA FALLS

While Milna could do with a bit of a face lift, the restoration of the old mansion and the new marina

at Maslinica has won awards for such a beautiful project. The new marina is finished white marble.

Bollards replicate the ancient port styles.

Milna Old Town Hall from ACI Marina

MASLINICIA BEAUTIFUL NEW MARINA IN WHITE

MARBLE ON SOLAT ISLAND

AWARDS WERE GIVEN FOR THE FANTASTIC DESIGN THAT ECHOES A GREEK

THEATRE

MASLINICA - CLEAR WATERS INVITE US TO

SWIM JUNE 5

MASLINICA - VICKI AND IAN ENJOY A NICE COLD

TREAT. AFTER ALL THE COMBINED YEARS OF

PROFESSIONAL WORK- HOW SWEET!

MASLINICA - YACHTS SAIL TO THE HARBOR. VIS

IS IN THE DISTANCE

MASLINICA - MODERN MEGA YACHT DESIGN

COMBINES SOME CLASSIC LINES: PLUMB BOW

WITH A CLASSIC TRANSOM.

Maslinica - Mega yacht dwarfs islet

MASLINICA - MANCA BESIDE THE BEAUTIFUL MARINA GARDENS

MASLINICA - YACHT SAILS BY GARDENS AND HARBOR

Maslinica - Terry and Manca hat

KREMIK IT IS A FAIRLY SHORT HOP FROM SOLAT TO KREMIK. We used the Marina to secure Manca and

take the 10 minute taxi ride to Primosten.

Kremik - On the way was fun to see a cat

making a good effort with the light winds.

KREMIK - ON WAY TO KREMICK. A CHARTER

FLEET STARTING A RACE.

Kremik - Yachts drift by ancient stone walls.

THUNDER CLOUDS FOLLOWED US TO BRAC . WE

DECIDED TO HIDE IN THE SAFE PORT OF MILNA.

PRIMOSTEN According the Thompson pilot, our trustworthy sailing guide book, Primosten was built on the island.

Walls surrounded it for protection against the Turks. Today the island is joined to the Croatian

mainland by a small causeway. A ramble around the old town, the intact small stone homes with

stone rooves, the great food at the Panorama Restaurant, the vistas and the sunset all make for a

magical ashore excursion.

Primosten. Many of the ancient stone homes

remain, some are still intact.

PRIMOSTEN - IAN BESDIE OLD STONE HOUSE

NOW A SMOKE HOUSE: WE THINK!

Primosten - Mural in the Primosten cathedral

depicts the old island city.

Primosten - Panorama Cafe we enjoy fine food

and wine with the sunset. Owner's olive groves

are in the background.

Primosten - sunset looking over Adriatic to Italy.

Primosten - sunset after the free schnapps -

locally known as travarica.

JUNE 7 SAIL UP THE KRKA RIVER TO SKRADIN AND THE FALLS

The putter up the Krka river brings many vistas and delights. There was also a bit of fear and

trembling as we pass under two bridges and the power lines. Manca’s mast is over 20 metres; plus

the radio antenna. Raymarine and Trevor and Dianah Thompson in the Adriatic Pilot give the

clearance details. We had room to spare but it always looks as if you won’t make it as you pass

under. The human eyes do not do a good job on perspective and range. We were also dogged by

Pirates.

On way to Krka Falls and Skradin we are attacked by pirates...or were

they tourists?

Submarines were hidden in these caves on the

Krka River. Nice to see them empty now.

Chugging up the river to Skradin Vicki checks the

mast height to pass under the bridges. We need

about 21 metres.

Oh No! Not more pirates! We fired a broadside

and the disappeared in a puff of smoke!

Croatia is very proud of their mussels used in

many dishes. The river near Sibenik is lined with

the farms.

Dalmatian limestone strata along Krka River.

The river is also well marked with navigation

aids. Some of the bends are 180 degrees.

The beautiful setting of ancient Skradin on the

Krka River.

Swans enjoy a pristine river in a well preserved

Krka Falls Park

Krka Falls in flood!

On hot summer days the falls are a Mecca for

bathers. These brave ones survive an unseasonal

cold snap.

Ian and Vicki enjoy the roar of the flooded falls.

Light and shade. The racing river.

How do the bending reeds cling against the

raging river forces?

1895 hydro electric history is made.

Ian and the historic turbine powered lights for

Sibenik.

Travertine terraces in the Krka falls.

This young local man liked Vicki’s foot!

The power of the water was used to run many

machines. The village and machines have been

beautifully restored.

Working grinding machines making flour.

The river gives life to a unique biodiversity.

Krka froggy! They make an incredible clacking

chatter when calling for a mate.

Vicki and Ian enjoy tasting in a great Skradin

wine cellar.

This hungry swan ate my non-skid on the

boarding plank.

View from the ACI Skradin Marina.

Ian listens to the roar of the river as the thunder

explodes right over our beer tent. The deluge

wrecked a great beer garden. The customers all

drenched squeezed into the small pub. The floor

soon flooded with the downpour making for

very soggy beer drinking.

Krka falls and flowers.

RETURN DOWN THE RIVER AND SAIL ON TO SPLIT

The ancient bastion guards the entrance to Krka

River. Canadian vessel Manca swept by avoiding

the cannon blasts.

On the return to Split we pass Primosten in the

early morning light.

Primosten speed boats are a hazard. My mate

Klaus had his 7m yacht destroyed by one of

these flying objects.

Our first view of Split with the Dalmatian

mountains behind.

Marina Kastella Gomilica is just off to the right.

The old towns were built out over the water.

There are about seven of these Kastellas along

the coast between Split and Trogir.

MIRAN ARIVES FROM SLOVENIA WITH A BAG OF REQUIRED ARC SAFETY GEAR

FOR MANCA

After leaving Manca in Athens Miran returned to Slovenia. He spent the next month working on an

order from AWN and preparing fitting for the AIS installation. Now on June 11 has driven over 500

km to rendezvous at Kastella Marina to complete the AIS installation. A project we thought would

take about 1 day, took three days!

Miran arrives with a box full of safety gear for the

ARC Rally including an orange storm jib, AIS,

flares, spare running lights and...

For three days Miran and his side kick Terry

struggled to install the AIS transponder, VHF and

GPS. Oh no! Not another hole in Manca!

The final touches to the antenna built for Manca

by one of Miran's Slovenian sailing mates!

FINALLY AFTER THREE DAYS THE JOB IS DONE. AIS TRANSPONDER WITH DEDICATED GPS AND VHF

ANTENNA. PLUS WE WERE ABLE TO RIG, REDY FOR USE, SPARE RUNNING LIGHTS; ANOTHER STEP IN

THE MIRIAD OF ISSUES WITH ARC SAFETY COMPLIANCE. Thank you Miran!

I HAD A COUPLE OF DAYS NOW TO COLLECT MY WITS BEFORE THE LEG FIVE CREW ARRIVE FOR THE

700 MILE LONG CROSSING FROM CROATIA TO SALERNO. WHILE THE HEAT AND THE BUSTLE OF SPLIT

DID NOT HELP MY FOCUS ON THE NEXT LEG IT WAS A GREAT BREAK FROM THE YACHT CHORES AND

MANCA’S DEMANDS. FOR EXAMPLE I WAS WORRIED ABOUT A WATER LEAK IN THE COOLING PUMP.

TRIED TO GET A MECHANIC. HE DID NOT COME! WOULD YOU BELIEVE I LEFT WORRIED SICK.. TURNS

OUT THERE WAS NO PROBLEM AT ALL!

A STAGGER AROUND SPLIT

SPLIT - JERI ARRANGES HER OWN BODY GUARDS

SPLIT - BRONZE MODEL OF SPLIT DIOCLETIAN’S

PALACE IN MIDDLE.

SPLIT - HATS

SPLIT - ACCORDEON PLAYER WITH PIDGEON

SPLIT- FISH HOOK AND YACHT

SPLIT - END OF WEEK CHARTER BOATS CIRCLE

AROUND TO GET A TURN AT THE FUEL DOCK

SPLIT - GREAT TO SEE THE LASER TEAM HAS

BEEN OUT SAILING

SPLIT - BRONZE MODEL OF SPLIT DIOCLETIANS

PALACE ON FORE GROUND

END OF LEG 4 DUBROVNIK TO SPLIT

CREW FOR LEG FIVE ARE DELAYED WITH CHANGE TO FLIGHTS. MIRAN RETURNS TO SLOVENIA. WE

FINALLY LEAVE SPLIT 3DAYS BEHIND SCHEDULE WITH A BIG PUSH AHEAD TO MAKE SALERNO BEFORE

JULY 3. BUT WE HAVE TIME TO SAIL INTO SOME OF THE BEST CROATIAN BAYS AND ENJOY A REVIST

TO SOME OF MY FAVOURITES.

TIME FLIES WHEN SAILNG FAST ONE MONTH LATER I AM FINALLY FINISHING THIS ON TH AMALFI COAST NEAR THE HISTORIC GREEK

CITY OF PAESTUM. WE ARE SAFE IN AGROPOLI HARBOUR. AFTER A SUPERB MEAL ON JULY 5TH WITH

ALAN AND HIS DAUGHTER I AM MORE THAN READY FOR BED.

MAY BE TOMORROW WIL HAVE A CHANCE TO CATCH UP WITH LEG 5 SPLIT TO SALERNO…

MEANWHILE LEG 6 IS OFF TO A GREAT START TODAY WITH A BEAM REACH FROM SALERNO TO

AGROPLI

NITE,

FROM TERRY AND MANCA

July 5 2013