ON CAMPUS P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9

BACK PAGE P 12CENTER SPREAD P 6-7

Volume 33, No.27

Culinary Culture P 3

May 22, 2013

An International Profile: Yoon Young “Mabel” Jang

Dan Castro: Closing the lens at The CIA

SRC and Conrad Hilton Library Expands- Introducing “Dorm Room Cooking”

Exploring new wine choicecs with Steven Kolpan

An Achatz Presence on Keller DayBY: Scott Schetselar, AOS Culinary

A Keller Sense of UrgencyBY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

For as long as I can remember, I have always enjoyed that “feeling” while in the midst of a busy line during ser-vice. There’s something special about it; almost mystical, often whimsical, and seldom chaotic. Working the line in a packed house on a Friday night was one of the memorable experiences I had a few years ago at this tiny Mexican cevicherria in New York City. Similarly, when dining out on the town, one of the things I look forward to the most is watching an open kitchen. Open kitchens showcase the theatrical wonders of the cooks: a performance propped with perfectly “mised” out stations, in a musical symphony of pots clanging, order callbacks, and the backdrop of a well choreographed and organized kitchen. Thomas Keller’s Sense of Urgency was one of the final presentations held last week at the Students Recreation Center. Truthfully, I was reluctant in watching another “kitchen demonstration” (as it was advertised on the week-ly CIA fliers), but it turned out to be much more than what I expected. SEU was an intimate look behind the scenes of one of the world’s most renowned restaurants, The French Laundry in Yountville, California. The stage was designed as a replica of the restaurant’s line and pass where Chef Keller took center stage in the play. His “cast” included the usual suspects of both back of the house and front of the house positions, played by his real-life team from the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and various CIA Alum-ni, including Chefs Grant Achatz, Jonathan Benno, and Eli Kaimeh. The reenactment of service at The French Laundry demonstrated the caliber and precision of work and execution by Keller’s staff. This is emphasized by the two plaques displayed upon the kitchen’s walls; “A Sense of Urgency” and an interpretation of the word “Finesse” reads alongside the station lines and under the kitchen clock. This was not just another cooking demonstration, but rather an open invitation to the few that claim to be their dream kitchen to work in the future, but fewer will

actually be exposed to. I was deeply enamored by the show, unable to fathom the magic that is Thomas Keller. Prior to the start of ser-vice, Chefs greeted each other with esteemed handshakes. The pre-shift meeting ran as per usual: the Chef de Cui-

sine went over the dinner menu and Maitre d’ called the

availability of wine selection to the front ...of the house.

Orderly communication was pronounced amongst the kitchen (something beneficial to everyone during service), movements were very methodical and systematic, and the flow of service was seemingly effortless. Chef Keller ex-emplified composure unlike anything I have seen, a sign of a truly wonderful artist. With each “act” the stage would fade into darkness for an interlude of guests to speak to the audience. With this, the play hopes to impart two valuable lessons to its audience; the importance of understanding the value of relationships between Chefs and their pur-veyors, be it farmers, or fishermen, and the ideal of judi-cious duty to utilize ingredients to create quality dishes for guests. Among those guest speakers were the men and women behind Thomas Keller’s success: his actual purveyors. Di-ana St. Clair, operator of a small cow farm in Vermont, spoke about how her products are befittingly used in all of Keller’s restaurants. Ingrid Bengis, Keller’s supplier of sea-food, illustrated how important it is to provide guests with the utmost freshest and best quality. Rick Bishop, played by Andrew Spadaro from CIA, recalled of a Tri-Star Straw-berry, a product that grew out of season that he was able to harvest for sale. It’s amazing that Thomas Keller was able establish a partnership with his purveyors and see their commitment to ensuring quality product. Together, they ultimately build what is a true sense of farm to table. The audience witnessed the un-divulged side of Thom-as Keller during the final act. He remained alone in the closed kitchen. For the first time, he is seated, able to con-template the fragments of the day. He peered over the ta-ble of the pass, unmoved by the still silence of the continu-ing fumes from the stove. At this moment, I could only envision so much what Thomas Keller may be thinking. I think for the most part, it is pure and simple gratitude.

Continued on page 4

Photo courtesy: Culinary Institute of America

Why do we open restaurants? Why do we have to put food on a plate? Why do we have to use forks and knives? These were some of the questions asked by Chef Grant Achatz 94’ when he came to The Culinary Insti-tute of America’s Hyde Park campus on Monday, May 13, to participate in the “Thomas Keller Day” event. The session started with Achatz telling the audience how he came to speak at the event. “Thomas wanted me to speak about the transition from being a cook or a chef, to becoming a restaurateur,” said Achatz. His visit car-ried with it a special importance to the students of The Culinary Institute of America, as Achatz is one of their

Alums. He spoke about his background, as a student at the CIA, and going on to work at Thomas Keller’s restaurant The French Laundry in Yountville, CA. He also described what it was like when he left Keller’s res-taurant to take on a Head Chef role at Trio, in Evanston, IL, by saying, “That hot box, that small rectangle in Ev-anston, was my voice.” The mood in the room began to shift when Achatz started to speak about Alinea, his restaurant in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood. When describing how they came up with ideas to implement in the restaurant, he said, “The first thing we did was ask ourselves a bunch of

questions.” One of those questions was: “Why does every Michelin 3 star restaurant in the world have tablecloths?” Achatz immediately answered his own question by say-ing, “To hide a [shabby] table”. He explained how he and his team tackled the problem. Health codes would not permit them to place silverware on a wooden tabletop, so they created a pillow, on which to place the silverware. Another problem created by having an elegant wooden tabletop was that sweat from drink glasses could damage it. Achatz explained that the team addressed this problem by regulating the temperature of the drinks served to guests, never allowing them to be cold enough to sweat.

2LA PAPILLOTE

COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of Amer-ica since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrong-doing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICYAs a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

Scott SchetselarFrancis MalingTeddy BoytonChef Fred BrashAmy ZarichnakDan CastroDiane Lam

Jeremy SolomonCharlotte Strode Daniel JarozIan CairnsSteven KolpanDania Farra

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Stephanie M. Kirkland

LAYOUT EDITOR Diane Lam

ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug

EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.netLETTERS POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

CONTRIBUTORS

May 22, 2013

Scan To Visit Our Library on issuu.com/lapapillote.

Dan Castro (Photographer)

DANIEL.CASTRO@GMAIL.COM

Diane Lam (Layout Editor)diaaa.lam@gmail.com

CHECK OUT LA PAPILLOTE ON FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/fblapapillote

Alicia Yandell(Copy Editor)

ajyandell18@aol.com

Michael Walsh(Copy Editor)

MW1058392@mycia.net

I always find it challenging to write these editorials; I never know

what to talk about. Should I go into depth about what I’m up to lately

I wonder? Should I try to make readers aware of upcoming events

here at school or in the Hudson Valley? Or just scratch all of it and

write about something off topic, something unexpected. You can now

see my dilemma. I suppose that’s what writing is about though, the

difficulty in deciding what to write about based on your own thoughts,

or those of the readers. By taking into consideration someone else’s

wants, you begin to ultimately change your own. Most of the time I

have to say to myself, “Just write, and they’ll read,” and some of the

time I actually believe it, but then again my confidence lacks some-

times, as does anyone’s.

Before I start to sound like too much of a perfectionist, I have to

insist that, for the majority of the time, it comes easily to me. I am

able to put aside those wayward thoughts and write for myself alone.

When I have the chance to go to a new restaurant, have a tour of a farm

or attend a festival or foodie event, that’s where I get my inspiration. That’s when I feel I need to share my

experience with anyone that will listen. That’s part of the reason why a blog is not in my repertoire. I don’t

want to write feeling like there is any kind of pressure from others. Irony at its finest; here I am Editor of this

newspaper, with as much responsibility as I can be given; all the while talking about pressure.

I try to put myself in reader’s shoes, as I once was a reader of La Papillote before I got involved with the

technical side of things. I always found it interesting and relatable when the editor would try to connect or

share a part of their personal lives with me. I felt like I was more able to understand who they were or what

they were about by reading that editorial. And I suppose that’s what I look for even in articles across the

board. In Saveur for example, my favorite pieces are ones that are being told in first person, as an account

of anything that has to do with celebration, a family tradition, or something that the writer identifies with.

Through those stories, I was able to find myself in little pieces of it, whatever the parts may have been. A din-

ner I have had in San Francisco, Denver, or New York City may come to mind even if I am reading something

that was written about a dinner in another part of the world, like Europe or South America.

My mind wanders even now as to what I could possibly say to you all. Perhaps I could comment the fact

that I am recently the proud owner of a juicer? Something of my trials and errors would be necessary about

that I think, if being in depth would be required of me. All of the flavor combinations and possibilities are

endless with that thing, I’ll tell you what. Or would you like to know that every time I look at Pinterest, I get

hungry. Or, about all of my favorite parts in movies, which, of course, have to do with food.

So I am forced to ask you all, as this editorial is filled with a whole lot of nothing, what should I write

about? I’d like some outside opinions as to what you, the reader, would want to see and not what I, as Edi-

tor, think you want to see on the other side of the page. Send any and all thoughts to lapapillote@mycia.net.

Please. Or else you’ll have to deal with another of these monotonous, run arounds, I write to take up space

and not necessarily about what I actually think. My writing takes a back seat, as I am too concerned with

what each issue is about and formed up of. It’s a shame really, because this is exactly what I want to do; write.

Readers, help me get my inspiration back! I’m anxiously looking forward to receiving your thoughts.

As always, stay hungry.

Stephanie Kirkland

3May 22, 2013

I first met Stephane Weber as he waited, outside the

kitchen where I was teaching, to get lunch. He looked at

me in the eye and said, “Freddy B you are way too serious!”

But as he continued to come for lunch he also

saw that I was very active in the kitchen, it was my

job to teach and make sure the cuisine had flavor.

Since then, Chef Weber and I have had many talks some

professional, some spiritual, and I consider him a friend.

Chef Weber on... ...Inspiration: I think my biggest inspiration was

my mother; my drive, hard work ethic, energy and be-

ing serious in what we do developed in me because of

her influence. She is a great role model. My mother is

a good cook of simple food, stews and vegetable plat-

ters that are super delicate, but give lots of flavor. Her

technique is of course developed from her mother, my

grandmother.

So as a young boy I followed her in the kitchen to help.

It was probably more of a duty than a hobby; she al-

ways cooked with integrity and if I [may] say so, our

food in our house was the best around! My mom would

complement me, often giving me self-confidence.

She is the reason I followed my heart into cooking.

Another great influence was my aunt who was a

great baker. She was also a maid in a household with

10 bedrooms in Paris. She would bake for afternoon

tea and copy the recipes down into a pastry book that

she wrote all of her recipes in, which I still use today.

Work Experience: I was 16 or 17 years old when I

had my first experience preparing pastry cream, which

in a Parisian pastry shop is a base for many desserts.

The salt and sugar bin were next to each other so I gath-

ered my ingredients and put half of the sugar into the

milk to boil and the other half would be mixed with the

eggs and corn starch. After doing this I realized that I

had placed salt in the milk. Instead of wasting 3 gallons

of milk I decided to proceed with the pastry cream put-

ting sugar in with the eggs and corn starch thinking that

the sugar’s sweetness would cover the flavor of the salt.

I added more sugar but the flavor of salt was still there,

however, I proceeded to fill the éclairs, the choux, mille

feuille and all the preparations that needed pastry cream.

At 9:00 a.m. the first customer purchased the

éclairs which were inedible, and that created a

big problem. 20 people came back to complain.

The lesson here was not to fear making a mis-

take but to stop, be honest, and fix the problem.

Happiness: The best way to explain happiness is

what happens here at the CIA. The beat of the school

[is comparable to] rock and roll in the 1950’s; the com-

munication, the

rush, teaching

and the hands-

on restaurant

e x p e r i e n c e .

It is clearly

a privilege to be

in the Bocuse

Restaurant and

a gift to share

my experience

with the stu-

dents. I believe

I have the skills

and knowledge

to lead the stu-

dents here.

The students are

young, they look at things differently and they bring

me back to my youth big time; I like the challenge of

not knowing what will be presented to us each day.

Being in a restaurant, teaching is different than being

in the classroom. It has a different feel. At Bocuse, I can

see if the customers are happy when I see their plates.

Crème de la Crème: Chef Stephane WeberBY: Freddy Brash, CIA Chef Instructor

Imagine moving across the world, 7,000 miles away from home, to live in a country that most people you know at home are scared of, mainly because its people and customs are so very differ-ent from your own. That’s what Yoon Young Jang

did when she enrolled at The Culinary Insti-tute of America. Known as Mabel on cam-pus, Jang started here in Janu-ary and is one of the interna-tional students that make up a p p r ox i m a t e l y 10 percent of The Culinary’s student popula-tion. School sta-tistics say that

those of us walking around in our chef whites represent as many as 40 different countries. A growing number of those students are also com-ing from Asian countries like Jang’s South Korea.

In fact, Jang grew up believing she want-ed to be a lawyer and focused all her studies and energies on earning the necessary degrees. However, the more she learned about the f ield, the more she realized that it wasn’t for her.“Law is important work, but for me, the days start-ed to become long and boring. School got very monotonous, and I realized I wanted a career that allowed me to be creative and that allowed me to use both my mind and my hands,” Jang said. At about that same time, she also realized that she had always loved watching her grandmother and mother cook. After immersing herself in all things food—reading cookbooks, trying and cre-ating new recipes, and spending countless hours at the stove—she realized food was her passion. She also decided that if she was going to become a chef, she was going to learn from the best. She chose The Culinary Institute of Ameri-ca not just for its stellar reputation and proven successes, but for being a school that seemed to both embrace and encourage diversity. “I saw that the students are all the same in that we all love food and cooking, but that we are all very differ-ent culturally,” Jang explained. “People genuinely care about each other here and are interested in learning about people who are different, which

isn’t always the case back at home in South Ko-rea and other countries, but that has made me feel right at home here. I love being at the CIA!” Classmates love having her here, too. Friendly and outgoing, Jang is not afraid to approach a new group of people to say hello or start a conversation. She’s also not shy to ask for help with English and enjoys the chance to teach others how to speak Korean. In a recent f ish fabrication class, Jang taught classmates Julie Lodato and Katie Lutin how to say “thank you” in Korean so that they could thank another Korean student for help-ing them expand their knowledge and learn a new phrase which could be of use in the future. Although it was a small request and gesture, it meant a lot to Jang, “It really made me feel ap-preciated, and that I could make a difference by teaching them something as simple as thank you.” To her fellow classmates it is an advantage to have Jang in class. She is a hard worker who goes out of her way to help others. “Mabel is a really hard worker; no matter what is going on you can always count on her to be there in a tough spot,” coming from one of her class-mates. This makes all the difference in a kitch-en and is what sets Mabel apart from the rest.

An International Profile: Yoon Young “Mabel” JangBY: Teddy Boyton, AOS Culinary

Photo Courtesy: www.facebook.com

Photo Courtesy of: CIA

Photo Courtesy of: CIA

4LA PAPILLOTE

Amy Zarichnak:You are an impassioned instructor. What drives you to want to impart your extensive culinary knowledge to students? Chef Dave Barry: I have always wanted to teach. There is something about watching my students succeed that makes me happy. Watching you “get it” is the best! N: “Fundies” was a tumultuous time for our group; lots of learning, lots of bumping into each other, lots of growing up. Aside from “be prepared for class,” what is the best piece of advice you can give incoming groups to avoid some of the “Fundies” pitfalls? B: All of it is part of growing up. All the ups and downs are needed for you to become a better leader. Some lessons need to be learned the hard way. N: What satisfaction do you get out of teaching a bunch of bumbling kids stumbling around a kitchen, some for the first time? I have to ask, because I saw some of what you had to eat in there. You’re a brave soul. B: I love it!! All of it! N: You often referred to growing up in a low income sec-tion of town. I find this to be very interesting about you and something that undoubtedly shaped your values. Tell us a little bit about your road from there to here. B: I grew up in many environments. I have seen a lot of sad situations. My family struggled, but not as much as some of the people we lived near. I took a lot for granted. N: I loved how financially sensible you were in regards to trying to utilize every bit of food fabricated in your kitchen, and how you emphasized doing the right thing, even when no one is looking. Tie that to your upbringing, as well, and tell me how that mindset evolved, too. B: I don’t think it came with the upbringing. It came with the chefs I worked with and paying attention to what you are throwing away. I feel that my early years in the kitchen were very wasteful. And after I came here, I had a true under-

standing of that. N: What is your dream job? B: This is! N: Okay, neces-sary question: Favor-ite restaurant(s) in the area? You are allowed to pick a few in a few different categories, whatever you choose. B: No. N: (This is exactly what Chef Barry’s an-swer was for this ques-tion…. Upon further pressing, he said that one time he found a restaurant he really

liked and told everyone about it. After that, every single time he went there, he saw people from the school that he knew, and they all wanted to sit with him. He said that he gets so little time with his family, that he wants to spend quality time with them and interact with them when out to dinner. So, now he doesn’t share the restaurants he frequents so that he can have that private time with his family!) N: Favorite food? Again, pick all that apply. B: I love Spanish food, Asian food, and pasta. Tamales, Chimichangas, Chile Rellenos, Rice and refried beans are all favorites… Pho is also a favorite! N: What do you get really sick of eating in Fundies? B: Bechamel day is rough for me. N: You do a lot of events at the school, and are a propo-nent of the veterans and are involved in other causes. Tell us a little bit about those events, the times of the year that they

take place, who to contact if students want to be involved, and what these events mean to you. B: I love helping any and all vets and their families. We do the event for them annually in March. There is nothing I would not do to help them. As a chef, and a decent hu-man being, we should always give back when we can. I stay involved as much as I can with student events. I try to post things in the mail room for students who are looking to get involved. N: It seems that anyone who has had you as a Fundies teacher holds you in high regard and views you with much affection. On behalf of our group, I just want to thank you. I know we all really loved you, and there were a lot of times when we all knew you could have been much more impa-tient with us. But as a final question, I just wondered if you can look at a group like ours, and immediately see who the Grant Achatz’s and Cat Cora’s of the class are going to be? Me, right?! B: I feel that I have a good barometer for who is going to do well, but I have had a few people who have proven me wrong. For the most part, I feel like I can pick the people who will do well. Life can get in the way, though, but there are people who are destined to be chefs. There are differ-ent levels of success. Not everyone is going to be an Alice Waters or Grant Achatz. That is not necessarily a measure of success, anyway. Some people do what they love and it makes them happy. That’s success. N: Parting words? Anything you’ve got. Go for it. Advice about cooking, life, school, etc. The floor is yours, B: I try to live my life in way that I don’t have to look over my shoulder. I do have a tendency to wear my heart on my sleeve and give away emotions, to my detriment. This busi-ness is rough. The best thing I can tell you to do is to make time to do the things that you enjoy. Family first.

Up-Close With Chef Dave BarryBY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

“The best solutions are the ones that come from solving problems, when you solve a problem you cre-ate a new design or create a new food technique.” As thinking outside of the box, and doing anything to ac-complish his vision became recurring themes. Another question the team at Alinea had addressed was, “Why put flowers on a table if the smell has been bred out of them?” Achatz explained. The problem became an op-portunity for them to put something unexpected on the table, something that might evoke a sense of wonder and excitement. “In the early part of my career… my main focus was always the food,” Achatz had said, now he was describing how as a restaurateur, he had the opportunity to look at everything from a different perspective. Achatz also spoke about the innovations in food that were able to make at Alinea, and how they had come about. He explained that again, many of the ideas had come about by questioning traditional ways of serving and preparing food. One such dish exhibited by Achatz was a piece of Liquid Nitrogen-frozen Japanese Wagyu beef suspended on a specially made stand. Achatz ex-plained that initially a piece could invoke wonder and intrigue, because of its appearance, which is pure white with frost-vapor flowing off of it. As time passed and the beef defrosted, the unmistakable appearance of a piece of red meat yielded itself to the guest. Another such in-novation was the use of alternatives to traditional forks and knives. Achatz gave several examples of such items including an envelope made from rosewater suspended from a “bow” above the table, along with what they called the “antenna,” a fourteen inch high spear that guests are to eat from directly. Many of Achatz’ dishes are also known for their exhibition of smells. He gave an example from when he had been working for Thomas Keller; he was sam-pling wine when a purveyor asked him what he tasted, he responded, “leather, cocoa nibs, cherries, and white

pepper.” A spark of an idea was lit when the purveyor told him that it was interesting that he was able to detect

all of those flavors from something that had only one in-gredient, grapes. This idea would shape many of Achatz’

future dishes and foster the idea that food can be used as a sort of time machine. He explained this by citing a dish where he had used a smell from his own childhood, burning oak leaves, to help embody the season of fall. One of the last things that Achatz discussed was his restaurant Next. The idea had been proposed to him by his business partner who had asked him con-secutively, if he could open up a French restaurant, and then an Italian restaurant, and then a Thai restaurant. His response to all three was that he would be bored after three months, and that it was impossible to open up three restaurants at the same time anyway. The partner explained that it was not three restaurants, but one res-taurant that changed its menu every three months and Next, a restaurant that would change its menu based on a place in the world and a point in history, was born. At Next, along with the rotating menu, Achatz described the revolutionary way for making reservations using ticket sales. The basis for the new system was the idea of being able to better manage waste. He explained that by charging a premium for seats at peak times, he could ensure that those guests would be there. If for some rea-son the guests could not make it, then some of the cost of reserving the table could be recovered by the restaurant. He told how through this method, savings were being reflected both toward the guests, with cost of food, and also in the ability to pay staff more fairly. In closing, Achatz gave students a few words of inspi-ration, “You see what we are doing with challenging the traditional methods of the restaurant industry both in terms of service reservations, aesthetics, flavor composi-tion, every single thing, we control. Why? When you’re told [no] and you don’t accept the [no] you find ways to come up with creative solutions. If you don’t deviate from what has already been done, then nothing will get done, and we will be stagnant.”

An Achatz Presence on Keller DayContinued from Page 1

Photo courtesy: CIA

ON CAMPUS5

May 22, 2013

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On March 25th a group of new students arrived at The Culinary Institute of America. Looking for a way to have fun outside of class, they looked into clubs on campus. To their extreme disappointment, there was no bar-beque club represented; only one thing would do, they would have to create one! The barbeque club, which is named “The Q-Crew,” was founded on the idea of bringing good food to stu-dents. “Our plan is to have fun cooking good food. We want students to be able to experience good bar-beque,” Vice President Richard Longo said. Members hope to also showcase different types of barbeque and where they originate. “We want to put out a different style each time we cook and maybe two or three styles so students can taste the differ-ence.” ACE Student Todd Price said, who is one of the club’s Pit Masters. Price comes with experiences from having com-peted statewide on the professional team “SmokeAholics,” and explained that types of barbeque can vary greatly, even from one state to the next. Club members also hope to eventually be able to do group events with other clubs. Price expressed interest in do-ing an event with the Veterans Association & Auxiliary Club for a Memorial Day event. “This club hopes to provide food to students, but also to bring together some of the other clubs to represent different types of barbeque,” Club Treasurer, Jake Bazzy said. Brittany Naucke, Club Secretary, further ex-panded on this idea by saying, “We hope to get together with other clubs such as the Korean Association, the Brew club,

and the Spanish club. Barbeque is something that is done across the world, so we would like to take it to that level.”

Club members also look forward to entering in competing barbeque events. Club President and ACE Culinary student Jason Fuller was excited to announce the club’s entrance in the Hudson Valley Rib Fest. The event will be held on the weekend of August 17 and 18 from 11am – 10pm at the Ulster County Fairgrounds in New Paltz. Fuller explained that member’s like Price, Welshhon, and Gavin Short, would be instrumental in organizing a team for the event. Naucke mentions that the club had discussed the idea of having member dinner events to try out ideas for competitions. Bazzy also added that, through the sale of goods they also hoped to provide uniforms for the club to wear at events such as this, as well as for on campus

events. Bakery and Pastry students are also welcomed in the club.

Price explained, some of the most creative aspects of competitive barbequing is the dessert category. “There’s so many things you can do with barbeque and you don’t have to just cook meats. We hope we can use [the bakery student’s] knowledge and talent to take our food to the next level when serving in competitions and on campus,” Naucke said. All club members interviewed for this article also expressed a great interest for getting to work along-side Chef Mark Elia, who is not only an instructor at The Culinary Institute of America, but also is the Founder/Owner/Manager/Operator at Elia’s Meat Market, a smokehouse & deli in Highland, NY. Elia also operates a booth at the Hudson Valley Ribfest

and in 2006, won the People’s Choice award for that event. According to Short, “He seems very enthusiastic about us starting the club and getting everything going; he seems very willing to share as much as he can, and push the club along as much as possible.” With a dedicated core group of members and a great chef to help organize, the members of the Q-Crew are reaching out to CIA students for membership. “Even if you have no experience, if you have an interest in barbeque, you should get in touch.” Advertisements for the club can be found around campus and more information can be found by log-ging in to Facebook and searching “CIA Q CREW” Welshhon concluded.

A New Breed of SmokersBY: Scott Schetselar, AOS Culinary

Dan Castro: Closing the Lens at the CIA BY: Dan Castro, BPS Culinary

Introducing the first members of “The Q-Crew!”

They say that a picture is worth a thousand words. Having taken a million pictures between my phone and my camera, I’ve had the pleasure of capturing all the facets of life whether it’s the happiness of two of my best friends inside a ferris wheel in Canada, the look of intensity on my tennis teammates while warming up before a game, or the pain that many go through during an ACF competition. Because of having too much to pick from, I honestly don’t know what picture would summarize these last three years as a whole. I do know, however, that I can put the last three years together in a thousand words or less because it’s the standard word count that all my Editors in Chief from Stephanie now, to Giu-lianna and Jocelynn last year, require. Before I go on, I’d love to thank all these wonderful ladies for giving me an outlet for both my creativity and my voice as a means to express myself. Picking up a camera was a spontaneous decision. It was easy to make, because it was something that my heart desired then, within my second week on campus as a freshman. I never would have imagined that in three years I would capture as many memories as I would. From the places I’ve been, to the people I’ve met, and especially the food that I have eaten. What photography has done for me over these past three years is that it helped me celebrate the adage of enjoying the journey, and never the destination. Photogra-phy helped me to get through the sweat, tears and brotherly abuse that I encountered on my way to achieving my Associate’s degree, taking pictures of what we as a class made that day, or a group picture with a Chef that had to deal with our odd chemistry. On

the same note, photography has opened far too many windows for me during Bachelor’s to count such as working the Augie awards or working on some publications with Phil, my boss, who I would love to thank for giving me such amazing opportunities. As my friends and I graduate this campus, I can certainly admit that I’m having a hard time with the idea of accepting the thought of moving on. Though a lot of us joke that we are “pretty much ready” to leave this school, Tim McGraw once said that, “You’re going to miss this and you’re going to want it back.” It’s true. I already miss picking up my tennis bag and going to practice on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 8:15 every night, I’m just getting used to it again. Much like food or tennis, photography is my saving grace. It gave me direction as I’m applying myself to what I love, while letting myself discover the person I want to be or currently am. Though having to slowly letting go of things because of time and circumstance has been a painful and gradual process and an even more painful one when I leave, I will heal one day and say that I’m somewhere I’ve never been; and that’s beautiful. Before I close this chapter in my life as a student at The Culinary Institute of America for good, I would love to thank Mr. Richard Grausman and Dr. Tim Ryan for giving me not only an education, but memories that would last for a long time, if not forever. I would love to thank the people who have stood before my lens, whether happily or grudgingly in order for me to have something to remem-ber or laugh at after a couple glasses of wine. And finally, I would love to thank my family - from the rowdy bunch of people I had

the pleasure of going to Spain with, the ten-nis team who I shared the field of battle with each and every weekend for these past three weeks, friends who have wel-comed me to their apartments for wine dinners or house parties and last but not the least, my direct family - especially my mother, for convincing me to make that phone call to The Cu-linary Institute of America when she noticed that I sat on my bed with a glum look on my face, thinking that I would never have a second chance to redeem or make something out of myself. But now, it’s time to fight for the greatest achievement ever. Whatever it is, I hope someone will be there to catch it when it happens.

“He is a fighter, and no matter how bad of a day he has had; you can always count on him.” Megan Slack said of teammate Dan Castro

LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6

Exciting things are coming our way here at The Cu-linary Institute of America. Words are buzzing about major expansions to the Student Recreation Center as well as the Conrad Hilton Library, both living up to their hype and both equally exciting. The SRC is home to our work out center, pool, and the weekend haven Court-side Cafe. Other than these resources, the SRC does not really live up to its in-tended purpose. Facilities Project Manager Rebecca Oetjen states, “We want the SRC to be a versatile com-munity that can be a place where students go to utilize resources that pertain to be-ing a student here at the CIA.” The SRC is intended to be a space that is welcom-ing to students and utilized for its function as well as recreational purposes. “It will promote a student union atmosphere,” Oetjen said. The project plans on including this theme throughout the planning process which includes utilizing cell phone and laptop dock-ing stations for charging, lounge chairs and coaches and elevated seat platforms in the gym for events. “We want to offer students a ‘sit and stay a while’

feel,” Oetjen said. The renovation is broken up into three pieces. First, is the building of a large dining hall that will be able to seat 475 people and a new High Volume Pro-duction (HVP) kitchen, what we know as K-16. The school plans to conduct HVP classes here to provide students the option to receive a swiped meal with the added convenience of entering in casual attire as well as providing more dining options to students. In addition to this added kitchen is a new and renovated “Courtside.” The cafe will be significantly larger with extended hours that will include a yogurt bar, coffee and Danishes in the morning; global street foods, as well as sushi, grill and deli stations, and wood fire pizzas for lunch and dinner meal times are

just a few plans that Oetjen excitedly shared. There will also be an opportunity to extend the BPS program by utilizing the HVP kitchen. Oetjen shared plans of creating a space for BPS students to run a pop-up kitchen that will be an extension of

their program that can illustrate and utilize their skills while they are furthering their education. The second part of the project will be an added wing to the facility that will house a new Nurses ward, Counseling offices, Residence Life, and Dean of Stu-dent Affairs offices. This addition is to enable stu-dents an easier access to resources that are commonly used. This expansion will centralize all of the Student Affairs and Administration offices for the student’s ease. An added bonus to this space is a berry garden that will be atop these offices. Although this space is not for student’s use, Oetjen mentions, “It’s a green initiative and helps in energy saving,” not to mention how beautiful such a garden would be from afar. Lastly, there will be an expansion of the fitness facility. There will be a 50% increase in space and equipment. There will be a separate cardio room, an expanded weight room and aerobics room. Renovation is expected to start August 1, 2013 through early October 2014. So, what does that mean exactly? Well, it means that the weight and cardio rooms will have phased open and closing times, the game room will be closed with the games distribut-ed into common areas of Residence Halls, but the gym and pool will be left untouched for the most part. However, through these perils, we can be sure that all efforts will be invested into a project that will surely be rewarded in the future and many students to come. Although many of us will not be here to reap the benefits of the extension of the SRC, the project that is planned for the Library is something that we can all look forward to after the summer break. Here’s the plan: The whole fourth f loor is going to be updated and renovated for more practical student use as opposed to the video center that is seldom uti-lized. The video center will be gone and the videos that currently exist will be digitalized and easily ac-cessible with a click of a button. The design is meant to enable students to hold group projects and utilize new resources that will en-able a more productive group atmosphere. Lounge chairs and new desks that will increase comfort leves will also be a positive addition to the fourth f loor of the newly renovated library. The walls separating the video room and the li-brary will be broken down, allowing students to move in out and freely as well as creating a more open space

for students to work and engage in group projects. The Learning Strategies Center will move to the library and will provide the same tutoring services as well as an additional Skills Station that will allow stu-dents to practice their culinary skills. The space will

provide steel tables and a kitchenette along with wood flooring for practi-cal use. This is an excit-ing concept that will be added to the Learning Strategies Center. The changes that will occur will provide our students the resources that

will reinforce the core responsibilities and skill build up that the CIA values, nothing less than culinary fundamentals and other values of the like. How in-teresting to walk into the Learning Center to find a sectioned off kitchenette with a bechamel simmering

on one burner while a oignon brulee is cooking on the other, all the while a student is manically small dicing an onion. New carpeting and paint, interactive and quiet study lounges and computer stations with updated software are some of the exciting features that will lend more students ease and comfort through their studies. This space will be an area where students can tailor to their needs individually or as a group. The project is expected to last 2 ½ months stretch-ing from July 8th through the middle of September 2013.

Rec Center and Library ExpansionsBY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary

All drawings are computer generated projections of the Stu-dent Recreation Center, to be completed in the fall of 2014.

Project Manager George Smith presents blueprints of library.

7May 22, 2013

CIA Visits the James Beard Awards Attending the Oscars of the Culinary world was nothing short of a fantasy come true - something I dreamed about dur-ing my high school Algebra class as my head lay upon the desk and drool ran down my cheek. Although, in my dreams I might have been nominated for a category or accepting the award thanking my loyal and hardworking staff of my celebrated res-taurant. Reality check; the first time I attended the James Beard Awards I wasn’t nominated for anything. In fact, I wasn’t on an A list nor a B or a C list. I was on the Z list of attendees as the low guy on the professional kitchen totem pole. I took pride in it though and used that position to find out just how someone like me - the underdog in the kitchen- can be worthy of a James Beard award someday. On Monday morning, May 13th, the day of, - I wasn’t going to the James Beard Awards. It was disappointing but a long shot, I guess. I was down on my luck working the AM shift at my externship site Prune in NYC. However, in a dramatic turn of events I received a phone call informing me that I would be attending. The awards started at six which meant I would leave work at five, sweating profusely and trailing a fishy funk behind me. In that time frame I took a subway to get my tuxedo to go home and shower, hail a cab, drive 15 minutes uptown to Lincoln Center, and run down the red carpet while my orange converse laces did an untied dance. I felt like I was in a

James Bond film as men in tuxedos were mingled with women in gowns. I sat down just in the knick of time. Actor and host Oli-ver Platt stepped out on to the stage with a glittering backdrop behind him. This years’ theme was ironically enough “Food in Film” and with the awards being Oscar like and all, award presenters included an “all-star” cast that would have made you think this was the actual Academy Awards. They ranged from Mario Batali, to Martha Stewart, and Thomas Keller; you name them and they probably were there. The winners had humbling speeches that brought both them-selves and the audience to tears. Chef Christopher Kostow win-

ner of Best Chef in the West admitted that when your’re shuck-ing oysters or plating cheese you don’t think you would ever stand on a stage and be commended for that work. The awards ended with a shocking twist as the award for Outstanding Chef was a tie between Chef David Chang of Momufuku Noodle Bar and Chef Paul Kahan of Blackbird in Chicago. The awards reception took place outside the theatre where both nominees and past award winners set-up stations and served lavish delectables. As I made my way around the venue I noticed CIA students (volunteers and externs) helping out be-hind the booths. Speaking of CIA students past and present, I ran into award

winner and CIA Alumnus Melissa Kelly who when asked what it takes to be a James Beard award winning Chef said, “Blood, sweat and tears, baby!” Michael Mina, another JBA winner and CIA alumnus said, “Relentlessness,” as he swung a candied lobster lollipop (his own creation) in front of my face. The night did end and I went back to Prune the next morning. As I organized the walk-in, butch-ered some pigeons and peeled potatoes I thought - if they can do it, with a thick skin and a bucket full of blood, sweat and tears then surely we can. We might just be students now but just look at what were capable of. *Thank you to the Susan Magrino Agency and The James Beard Foundation for allowing The CIA access to the Awards ceremony.

BY: Jeremey Salaman, AOS Culinary

AOS students Peter Deitrick and Mike Crane photograph with Outstanding Chef 13’ David Chang

Now serving New York City for more than 30 years, City Harvest (www.CityHarvest.org) is the world’s first food rescue organization, dedicated to feeding the city’s hungry men, women, and children. This year, City Harvest will collect more than 42 million pounds of excess food from all segments of the food industry, including restaurants, grocers, corporate cafeterias, manufacturers, and farms. This food is then delivered free of charge to some 600 community food programs throughout New York City by a fleet of trucks and bikes. More than one million New Yorkers are facing hunger and for many people that City Harvest serves, healthy food is unavailable and unaffordable. In turn, diseases related to poor nutrition - including diabetes and obesity - tend to be concentrated where demand for emergency food is greatest. As a natural extension of the anti-hunger work City Harvest began more than 30 years ago, City Harvest developed Healthy Neighborhoods programs to have a long-term impact on the lives of hungry New Yorkers. Through Healthy Neighborhoods programs, City Harvest partners with residents, community organizations, afterschool programs, and local businesses to relieve food insecurity, provide nutrition education and inspire healthy choices, and increase access to affordable, healthy food. City Harvest relies on the support and dedication of over 2,000 volunteers in its mission to end hunger in New York City, and one area in need is the Healthy Neighborhoods initiative. Healthy Neighborhoods programs utilize volunteers with culinary backgrounds to help residents gain the skills and knowledge to put good, nutritious food on the table for themselves and their families. Healthy Neighborhoods programs are located in low-resource areas across the five boroughs: Washington Heights/Inwood in Manhattan, Bed Stuy in Brooklyn, Northwest Queens, the North Shore of Staten Island, and the South Bronx. As a City Harvest culinary volunteer, you will have the opportunity to: • Conduct cooking demonstrations of healthy cooking recipes and techniques for residents at senior centers, markets, clinics, and other community gathering places. • Lead a shopping workshop and teach residents practical tools on how to stretch food dollars and find affordable, healthy foods right in the neighborhood. • Facilitate a nutrition education class at participating community organizations and instill the skills and confidence in groups of all ages on how to prepare healthy meals. Volunteer opportunities are available Monday through Friday from 11am - 8pm, and also on the weekends. For additional information or to get involved, please contact Brit-tany Erdman, assistant manager of Volunteer Services at 646-412-0712 or berdman@cityharvest.org.

City Harvest Seeks VolunteersBY: Charlotte Strode, City Harvest Employee

“Oh Teamwork” a HaikuBY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

There’s no “I” in “team”You’re better, if they are too

Together, you can

8LA PAPILLOTE

Forming Healthy Eating Habits!1.)You are what you ea 2.) Fuel Your Body Well 3.)Eat well, be well What you eat can be rather significant. Brillat Savarin insists that you actually are what you eat. In other words, the food you consume defines your heritage, health, image, and lifestyle. As we all indulge, we must think about the CIA’s motto, to eat well and be well. Do so by consuming more fruits and vegetables. What is your favorite food? Are you a meat and potato eater, like me? When eating, stay on the lookout for nutritious ingre-dients. Keep an eye out for colorful fruits and vegetables. In fact try to fill yourself up on the green ingredients, rather than red meats or starches. Think of food as your fuel. In order for your body to operate and function properly you must fuel it well. Do so by eating more whole grains, legumes, salad greens, herbs, and apples to feel great inside and outside. When it comes time for dinner, do not feed yourself the

asdsame boring meals day after day. Change things up for once. Instead of meat and potatoes, attempt to make one day of the week meatless. Eat some heart-healthy fish or better yet try to be vegetarian for the day. I am not saying you must turn into an herbivore forever. However, feed your body a variety of differ-ence foods. Fruit and vegetables will do you more good to your system than harm. These nourishments will provide the body with a dozen health benefits. In addition they will boost your energy, vitamin intake, and revitalize your well-being. To gain more healthy benefits, try cooking your produce in a shorter period. Overcooked vegetables will lower the overall number of vita-mins and minerals. Raw produce will always give you full ac-cess to all the healthy nutrients. Most people say an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Likewise, parents stress and holler at their kids about eating veg-etables. They would not bicker about it if it was not important. My mother and father even had a rule that every last pea had to be eaten during dinner time. There was no dog or cats in my family, so the only way out of this situation was to eat up. Dis-cipline yourself and the people around you to eat more green foods. Make it a habit and you will be healthier. We all have only one life to live so make the most of it. Do not let your life be cut short because of heart disease, stroke, or can-cer. These diseases are the leading killers in the world. Protect

yourself from these illnesses through a well-balanced diet. It all comes down to the food you eat. A few servings of fruit and vegetables will give you enough antioxidants to fight diseases. Colorful foods make your immune system stronger and lower your chances of getting sick. Be conscious of what you eat. Avoid junk food and instead eat real food. Replace sugary and salty snacks with a fresh apple, carrot, or side salad. Instead of digging into a decadent choco-late cake, choose to eat a fruit salad. A healthy snack once a week can make a difference over a one or five year period. Fresh produce is and always will be the best option to choose. Make the change to receive vitamin A, vitamin C, and minerals. I, like many people, am a huge foodie. I live to eat, dine, and cook. We all like to get our hands on some comforting food. You cannot go wrong with gooey macaroni and cheese or baked bubbly lasagna. However, be sure to incorporate some root vegetables or herbs into the meal. Hide hearty ingredients like spinach, peppers, squash, carrots, and micro-greens into your meals. It is springtime which means there is no excuse not to eat right. Visit a farmers market and stock your refrigerator with fresh produce. Eat four to five serving of fruit and vegetables to receive all nourishments and health benefits. Be smart about what you eat.

BY: Daniel Jarosz, AOS Culinary

Different Options for Thickening a Sauce While we have our own little ratio guide supplied to us by the CIA, it is anything but complete. This small handbook is a great start, but there is so much more to cover, especially on the subject of thickeners. Consider this article an addition to your little book. But I warn you, these ratios are just from personal ex-perience. I am no scientist or viscosity expert like Dr. Loss or Ted Russin. I don’t have a team of culinary professionals consulting over which hydrocolloid to use for a particular application, but I can confidently say these ratios have worked for me. Some often shutter at the idea of ratios. When you think about it, the concept of cooking utilizes every sense in the body; and every time you use a product it can vary substantially. So often, at the end of recipes, it lists the phrase, “TT, to taste” or “TSA, taste season adjust”; this is because cooking isn’t concrete, it’s a skill that takes time and practice to evolve. Ratios and recipes; there’s a big difference. Reci-pes are tested methods and certain amounts of product that if executed correctly will yield a specific product, but still it contains the notions TSA and TT. Recipes almost always yield a better result. This is because the process has been tested and is based upon a spe-cific product. So, to get a better product, use a recipe from a reliable source. Ratios on the other hand don’t have specific result in mind, and in turn offer a lot of creativity to the person cooking it. It is more of a guideline or point of reference. Note: The strength and quality of each of these hydrocolloids varies from brand to brand. My recom-mendation is to use texturas by Ferran Adria. Now that the subject is clarified here are some ratios: Agar Agar 100g of f lavorful liquid to 1g of Agar Agar – Yields firm gel, can be pureed to become a medium peak sauce (f luid gel)Add the puree to a pot and bring to a boil. While whisking gradually pour in the Agar Agar (raining) and boil for another minute. Pour into desired mold or shape and chill. To make a fluid gel take the gel cut it into cubes and puree in blender. Add water to adjust consistency if needed. Side note: Agar Agar is incredibly easy to use, but not desired for a high qual-ity product. It slightly masks the flavor of the gel you

create and makes it brittle and gritty. Gelatin 100g of f lavorful liquid to 1 Sheet of Silver Gelatin – Yields a moderately firm gel. Place sheet one by one into ice water and keep in liquid for 10 minutes or until soft (bloom). Place puree into pot and heat till steam rises. Put bloomed gelatin into heated pot and whisk until its melted. Pour mixture into desired molds. Side Note: Gelatin is made from the collagen tissue of animals, it’s not vegetarian. The texture this product creates is smooth and shearing, but not heat stable. Although, if added to a hot liquid it will still improve the texture of the liquid and viscosity, but very minimally. Ultra Tex 3 100g of f lavorful liquid to 10g of Ultra Tex 3 – Yields Fluid Gel Put liquid into bowl and while whisking steadily rain in the UT3. The sauce will thicken almost in-stantly. Once fluid get consistency don’t whisk any-more ( the more you whisk the thicker it will get) im-mediately strain the sauce through chinois. Xanthan Gum 100g of Flavorful liquid to .5g of Xanthan Gum –

Yields Firm Gel Xanthan is one of those cure all to end all thick-eners that is stable at every temperature and doesn’t require heat to activate, it also acts as stabilizer and can help in emulsions. Simply whisk it into what you desire to thicken. That being said, a high dose of the product can easily create an undesirable texture and high viscosity in less than a seconds notice. For a wow effect, sprinkle some Xanthan gum on top of a soup, the gum will increase the surface tension and any light weight product will “walk on water” Corn Starch 100g of f lavorful liquid to 10g of Cornstarch – Yields Set Gel Saturate 10g of Cornstarch with just enough cold water to hydrate. Bring flavorful liquid to simmer and pour in starch slurry and continue cooking on the same heat for 1 minute. Pour into desired mold and cool. This Starch is heat sensitive and unstable when thawed, but a cheap familiar ingredient if you wish to fool around or experiment.

Photo Courtesy: Choosemyplate.gov

BY: Ian Cairns, AOS Culinary

Enjoying your favorite wines with your favorite foods is one of life’s true pleasures. You can count on the wines you like to stimulate all of your senses, to provide a focus for a great meal with friends or family, or when you’re grabbing a quick bite on your own. But let’s be honest; even though you may like what you’re drinking, when it comes to the universe of wine you may also be thinking, “What else am I missing?” The fact is that there is life beyond Chardonnay and Cabernet, and there is excitement beyond Merlot. There has never been a better time to be able to taste the wines of the world, and some of those wines are produced from grapes you have never heard of and in wine regions you’ve never considered. There is so much great wine available in the wine shops and restaurants of the Hudson Valley. Wines to fall in love with, wines to savor, wines to pair with your favorite foods. The really good news about these great wines is that they are often great values too, and all it takes to get started on this enological journey is a sense of adventure; and a desire to go off the beaten path. We can start our exploration close to home, by tast-ing some fine Hudson Valley wines made from what might be considered unusual grapes. Millbrook Vine-yards makes a lovely estate-bottled Tocai Friulano, a white grape native to Friuli Venezia-Giulia, Italy. Try this wine with grilled or seared scallops, fish or chick-en tacos, Chinese takeout, or any lighter foods with a touch of spice or smoke. Or try the Gamay Noir from Whitecliff Vineyard in Gardiner, a red made from the only grape that is allowed in Beaujolais, France. This wine is great with a rare burger, filet mignon, roasted chicken, or a grilled salmon, as well as many Hud-son Valley artisan cheeses. And don’t forget Eaten by Bears, produced at Cereghino Smith Winery in Bloom-ington, a non-traditional red wine made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Cabernet Franc. The same folks produce a killer Rock ‘n Roll Red: a blend of Sangiovese, Petite Sirah, and Cab-ernet Franc. Both of these full-bodied wines exhibit structure and depth tempered by refreshing acidity, and will marry well with hearty dishes, such as stews made from local beef, lamb, or veal. Leaving home to go farther afield, consider some of these wines next time you want to try something new, different, and good: The Southern Hemisphere Argentina: Ever try Torrontés, a floral, spicy white? An excellent wine for fish dishes, as well as mushroom risotto, or just some fresh veggies sautéed or roasted in good olive oil. Of course, Argentina is already well known for its red flagship, Malbec, a me-dium to full-bodied wine made to pair with the Argen-tine love affair with beef. Chile: If you like medium-bodied, juicy red wines, sip a good Carmenère and you won’t be sorry. Cab-ernet Sauvignon is Chile’s most popular red varietal in export markets, but Carmenère can be a bit more interesting: somewhat lighter in body, and extremely food friendly, this wine is great with white meats and is an incredible bargain. By the way, if you haven’t tried Sauvignon Blanc from Chile’s Casablanca Val-ley, you’re missing out on a great white: fruit-forward, with refreshing citrus-like acidity, and just the thing for poached salmon with a tomatillo salsa. Uruguay: That’s right, Uruguay. I’m betting most readers haven’t had the pleasure of tasting this coun-try’s Tannat, a full-bodied but balanced red, which true to its name features some serious mouth-pucker-

ing tannins. This is a wine for red meats and intense cheeses, such as Parmigiano Reggiano or moderately sharp Cheddar. Australia: Sure, we know about Shiraz, but have you tried a dry to semi-dry Riesling from Down Un-der? Refreshing, citrusy, clean, this white is just the thing for spicy Asian food or smoked fish. And the red grape that Australia does a bang-up job with is Grenache, especially old vine Grenache from the McLaren Vale region. Redolent of black and red fruits, with a complex finish, this full-bodied red pairs beautifully with cassoulet, game, or hard cheeses. New Zealand: Sau-vignon Blanc from New Zealand is ubiquitous these days, but lesser-known are its great Pinot Noir wines, especially from the Central Otago and Martinborough re-gions. As with all fine Pi-not Noir, these wines pair beautifully with a wide va-riety of foods, from grilled fish, to any white meats, to leaner cuts of red meats, as well as “meatier” vegetarian dishes featuring beans and grains. South Africa: I’m a big fan of South African Sau-vignon Blanc, but I would be remiss if I didn’t recom-mend this country’s Chenin Blanc wines. Crisp, fruity, with a touch of peach on the palate, this white is sure to please with ceviche or poached fish dishes. (South Africa is also known for its own red wine grape, Pi-notage, but I have to admit most Pinotage wines leave me cold, especially as the quality is inconsistent). Europe Austria: Two whites, and two reds worth exploring here. Definitely try Grüner Veltliner, a white that is light-bodied, crisp, refreshing, with an underlying hint of orange zest. Grüner Veltliner has been “discovered ,” but the wine is still a good bargain. More expensive, but usually worth it are Austria’s dry Rieslings. Both of these whites are perfect accompaniments to spicy fish dishes, and smoked fish and white meats. For reds, try Blaufrankisch, a medium-bodied wine that pairs nicely with red meats and stews, and Zweigelt, a light-bodied red that is perfect for fish or white meats cooked en plein air, on the outdoor grill. By the way, Zweigelt is the same grape as Lemberger, a cult classic worth a sip from Washington State. Italy: There are hundreds of grape types in Italy, so the question becomes where to begin? I say let’s start in Sardinia with Cannonau, which is actually the Grenache grape. Full-bodied red Cannonau wines are wonderful with rustic, rare meat dishes. From Puglia, try Primitivo, which has the same DNA as Zinfandel. Primitivo is a very satisfying red, and like its Cali-fornia twin, it is bursting with black fruits and spice. Terrific for white and red meats, but also for hearty knife and fork soups, such as black bean. Vermentino, grown primarily in Sardinia and Tuscany, produces a wonderful white, with bracing acidity and notes of cit-rus and green melon on the palate. Serve Vermentino with fish, seafood, or mollusks. The same foods create

a perfect pairing with Falanghina, a delicious, mouth-watering white from Campania. Portugal: Portugal’s premier white grape is Alva-rinho, which often finds its way into blended Vinho Verde, but look for pure Alvarinho from the Moncão wine region. Another wonderful wine for fish. Touriga Nacional is the most heralded red grape in Portugal,

and is an important constitu-ent of fine Port. These days, Touriga Nacional from the Douro region is making an in-ternational name for itself as a great table wine. If you like “big” reds and “big” food, then Touriga Nacional is for you. Spain: Albariño is the Spanish name for Alvarinho (see above). Albariño from Rías Baixas, in the province of Galicia on Spain’s northern Atlantic coast, produces a de-licious medium to full-bodied white, made to marry with that region’s seafood. Godel-lo, from Valdeorras, also in Galicia, is a light to medium-bodied, juicy, refreshing white wine, and is also a perfect pairing with fish and seafood. When it comes to reds, Spain

is a treasure chest, but if you’ve never tried a Mencia from the Bierzo denominación, you’re missing out on a beautiful red wine that will successfully accompany roasted white meats. If you like Merlot, but want to take a walk on the wild side, Mencia is for you. France: The Loire Valley is known throughout the world for its tasty white wines, such as Muscadet, Vouvray, and Sancerre. Lesser-known are the terrific red wines from the Central Loire: Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny, each based on the Cabernet Franc grape. These are not blockbuster reds, but rath-er medium-bodied wines of great finesse and subtlety, perfect for white meats and game. Greece: In Greece, the joys of degustation are much more important than the challenges of pronun-ciation. One of my favorite white wines in the world is Moschofilero, from Mantinia on the Peloponnese peninsula. Moschofilero is crisp and refreshing, tastes a bit like a cross between Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, and will pair incredibly well with subtly spicy, salty, and smoked foods; it is a dream when paired with grilled sardines. Another exciting Greek grape is Assyrtiko, which produces extraordinary white wines on the island of Santorini. These wines are all about fish dishes in the tradition of the Mediterranean. Try it with a bouillabaisse or other fish stew. For assertive red wines from Greece, look for Nemea (made from the Agiorgitiko grape) and the Barolo-like Naoussa (made from the Xynomavro grape; a personal favorite). Cyprus: This journey for new and exciting wines could go on and on; we’ve just scratched the surface. Where better than to end our travels – at least for now – at the home of the oldest, continuously produced wine in the world? Commandaria, from the Limassol region, first produced in the 12th century, is a sweet, fortified wine, perfect for cheeses (or dark chocolates) at the end of a meal, and a perfect wine to relax with at the end of our journey, as we contentedly murmur, “What’s old is new again.”

FOOD & BEVERAGE 9May 22, 2013

The Path Now Taken: Exploring New Wine ChoicesBY: Steven Kolpan, CIA Professor

Photo Courtesy Of: Art du Vin, ADUV.com

Alex Lee is executive chef at Glen Oaks Club,

a private country club with a 27-hole golf course

in Old Westbury, NY. In addition, the club offers

a 25-tee driving range, a pro shop, caddies, golf

instruction, a restaurant, snack bar, and full bar

services.

Chef Lee began cooking at the age of 17

while still a high school student in New York’s

Long Island and embarked upon a professional

cooking career in 1986 at La Colombe d’Or in

New York City. He then worked under Chef Dan-

iel Boulud in the kitchen of the renowned, four-

star Le Cirque. Thereafter, Chef Lee took time

to travel, and staged at some of the world’s f inest

restaurants, including Dal Pesecatore in Mantova,

Italy; Restaurant Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain;

Dar Liqama in Marrakech, Morocco; and Lai Ch-

ing Heen in Hong Kong. After spending a year at

Chef Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monte Carlo,

Chef Lee returned to the U.S. to join the opening

team of Chef Boulud’s Restaurant Daniel in 1992.

He rose through the ranks to become chef de cui-

sine, and, ultimately, executive chef, before taking

the executive chef position at the Glen Oaks Club

in 2003.

Alex Lee’s talents have been hailed by the

foodservice industry and diners alike. He was a

James Beard Foundation Award nominee for Best

Chef, New York City in 2002 and 2003. And while

he was executive chef at Daniel, the restaurant

received four stars from The New York Times

and was rated “top food” in the Zagat Restaurant

Guide.

Giving back to the industry and his community

alike, Chef Lee was a judge for both the Bocuse

d’Or USA Commis Competition at The Culinary

Institute of America in 2012 and the Port Wash-

ington Chamber of Commerce’s annual SOUPer

Bowl, which supports the town’s food pantry and

Chamber projects. He is also a member of the

Friends of Sunrise, a group dedicated to raising

funds and awareness for Sunrise Day Camp, the

f irst and only dedicated day camp in the U.S. for

children with cancer and their siblings.

Alex Lee is an avid heirloom gardener who en-

joys seasonal cooking, country cuisine, tradition,

innovation, and world f lavors.

LA PAPILLOTE10

SITE NAME STATESTUDENT

Culinary Arts Group #1

Baking and Pastry

Welcome BackRetuRning exteRns!

Culinary Arts Group #2

Front: Brian DuffyTaylor JonesDesiree GonzalesPatricia MillerNaekyung HaPatrick Firmender

Middle:Christopher BuzzelliShawn StephensonCasey PalerminoJohn ChoShaun Edwards

Back:Andrew McCuenJustin OvertinJalen HutchinsonBrenton KauffmanHyojoon AhnJae-Ho Bang

Front:Justin FryerAnthony StockelbergAlexandra AlvarezLucas DiehlMichael AlemagroChristina SalkowskiLindsey WheelerKevin NormandieChris Edwards

Back:Arashasp Shroff Duane WalkdorfVictoria MicharkiGiovanni P. RayMatt JensenHamilton TranNirvaan ThackerZachary LaneErica WildbergerEthan RundleZachary Rinaldi

Front:Nicole De Ovin-BerenguerLindsey McCloskey Paige Knowles Andrea L. BarattiniBrittany PineroAlexandra CoKatlynn VanZandtKelsey Morgan

Back:Valerie SikesJordan WalkerDeborah DiazJoseph LucciRyan AndersonTaylor SiokCaroline RamirezAndra PlummerCydney DiVirgilioJanelle Pezza

WaterbarGreens

Blue HillTorrisis Italian

Jacques Torres ChocolateKiawah Island Golf Resort

Iron Hill BreweryOmni Houston

Ritz CarltonBoulud Sud

Bull and BudhaFrontera Grill

Peppermill ResortRenaissance Esmeralda

Gramercy TavernTamarind of London

LarkspurPainter’s

John’s Island ClubWDW-Port Orleans

DomenicaMorimoto NYC

DanielLincoln RistoranteAludden ProvidoreStein Eriksen LodgeGeorges at the Cove

Hurricane ClubStein Eriksen

New World Home CookingJohn’s Island Club

Four SeasonsMontage Deer Valley

Stowe Mountain ResortStein Eriksen Lodge

Four SeasonsJohns Island Club

Stein Eriksen LodgeBroadmoor

Stein EriksenBlue ginger

Alexander’s SteakhouseJean Georges

LuquesCarnevino

Pattisserie SalzburgJohn’s Island ClubL’Auberge CasinoRoy’s Ko Olina

CACANYNYNYSCPATXFLNYNYIL

NVCANYCACONYFLFLLANYNYNY

SWEUTCANYUTNYFLFLUTVTUTFLFLUTCOUTMACANYCANVNYFLLAHI

AndrewJamesonClaraKatherineTaylorPeterJosephAndreKatherineEricChastityMichaelTaylorMichaelYujungAndrewHadleyPatriciaSeunghunZacharyNicholasRakminSinaeJonghwiGiovanniJeremyPasavitGinaGabrielleMadisonStacyCaseyTaylorSamuelLeahTaraDanielRyanMichaelJasonEricHeatherPichayaChristopherCalebPatriciaJun HoRachelYoungBae

BelenBrownCogswellCurciD’ArgenioEngleFidlerGarzaGuarascioHernandezHopkinsHowardHutsonJacobsJeonJeongJouflasKampKimKruseLambrosLeeLeeLimLivingLonnevilleMeekhunsutNalboneNielsenO’LearyPearsonPerezPritekelRamerRizzoSchielSchneiderShaffnerSkinnerSmithSwerskyTomoryUtharntharmVetterVillanuevaYbarraYooYoungYun

AOS Graduation Speaker: Alex Lee

11May 22, 2013 POT LUCK

BPS Graduation Speaker: Hamdi Ulukaya Hamdi Ulu-kaya, dubbed “the Steve Jobs of yogurt” by Forbes in 2011, is the founder, CEO, and president of Chobani, a nearly $1 billion yogurt business he built in just five years during America’s worst economic crisis in decades. Mr. Ulukaya’s success is rooted in humble begin-nings. He grew up in Turkey work-

ing his family’s third-generation sheep farm and feta cheese operations, and in 1994 moved to the United States to learn English and study business, with hopes

of pursuing his own path. During his time at the State University of New York at Albany, he couldn’t help but notice a huge gap in the dairy product offerings between Turkey and the U.S. And so, with a mission to bring superior products to the U.S. market, in 2002 Mr. Ulukaya launched the Johnstown, NY-based Euphrates Feta, which quickly became one of the most successful wholesale feta cheese companies in the country. Three years later, he founded Chobani, with the first cups hitting store shelves in October 2007. Initial retail interest for Cho-bani primarily came from high-end specialty stores, but in 2009, Stop & Shop signed on and other major retailers quickly followed suit. Today Chobani is the #1 yogurt brand in America, shipping cases from its Chenango County, NY plant as well as its new yogurt production facility in Twin Falls, ID. The company recently expanded internationally as well, launching operations in Australia. Under Hamdi Ulukaya’s leadership, Chobani has grown from five employees to almost 2,000 strong while remaining true to the company philosophy, “nothing but good.”

In 2007, Mr. Ulukaya initiated Chobani’s 10% pro-gram, which directed 10% of brand profits to chari-table groups. In 2010, he took this one step further, creating the Shepherd’s Gift Foundation. Created in honor of his mother, a woman who lived her life in the spirit of a shepherd—an expression in Turkey used to describe people who give without expecting anything in return—the foundation gives 10% of all Chobani profits to people working for positive, long-lasting change. For his leadership, career achievements, and per-sonal qualities that inspire others to excel, Hamdi Ulukaya received the Small Business Administra-tion’s 2012 Entrepreneurial Success Award as well as the 2012 Ernst & Young National Entrepreneur of the Year Award. He was inducted into the 19th class of the American Advertising Federation’s Advertising Hall of Achievement in 2011. An active community member, Mr. Ulukaya sits on the advisory boards of the Path-finder Village, American Turkish Council, and Federal Reserve Bank of New York.

BPS Graduating Class of May 22, 2013

Top Row From Left to Right: Daniela Vazquez-Monge, Angela Weagoe, Ken Nuroho, James Iskandaar, Chris Cox, Supakorn Suwanpruiksa, Chad Kiteveles, Zev Glesta, Eric Jenkins Middle Row From Left to Right: Natalie Suits, Katie Robaczewski, Ashley Betts, Andrea Marciniak, Dan Castro, Kamil Moore, Derek Smith

Bottom Row From Left to Right: Laura Ross, Christine Hansen, Sarah Wallace, Kristie Castellano, Gabriela Scharfenberg, Holly Hatcher, Laurel Zmoda, Conner Burns

Sometimes, living on a campus like the CIA can be intimidating. There are a myriad of splendiferous kitchens to choose from with a variety of cuisines from across the world. Yet oddly the creeping craving for hotdogs stands by. You don’t need a grill, or even a stove. All you need is:

A coffee potWaterAs many hot dogs as you can fit in your coffee potHot dog bunsCondimentsEnjoy!

BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

I brought it on myself. Brian, one of my good friends in my class, said to me before the start of our new semester, “I hear there’s a lot to learn in meat class.” Brian is: quiet, understated, confident, and knowledgeable. Me: I’m obnoxious, overconfident, and usually ill informed. So, with my typical sarcasm and flippant attitude, I replied, “How hard can it be? It’s meat, for heaven’s sake.” How hard can it be? The universe loves these types of statements; an opportunity to teach ignorance a les-son. Karma, baby. The first day of meat class we had three people cut themselves, one of them, twice. Smug in my su-periority and coming off of a strong first semester I had Brian my, self-described, “high speed, low stress” Fundies partner, by my side, and I knew we were going to sail through this together. Except my first indication that something was wrong was when Brian ditched me as a partner. Maybe he could smell the confusion in my brain before I even knew it was brewing. “You know, me and James, we gotta stick together,” Brian said. I looked at him with puppy dog eyes. “Ari needs a partner and she seems to really like you,” he offered. Brian, if I had to be fully honest and admit it, is my safety net. I try to be pretty independent and try not to depend on the guys in my class. But if I have a problem, you can pretty much guarantee I’ll be in orbit around Brian…. Or James. And this time, the boys wanted to stick together on the job. I was out, and to my detriment. The first day Chef Elia broke down and fabricated a primal round, the hind leg/butt of a cow. That’s not too hard. Top round, bottom round, eye round, we’ve all heard of these things before. Femur bone, knuckle, shank, all pretty relatable and it’s easy to understand where you’re at on the leg of a cow. But the problem for me here is the reality that I live. I’ve been single and I’ve been a food snob most of my adult life. I don’t cook for crowds, I cook for myself or a significant other and me. And honestly I don’t cook for men that much, they’re usually not worth it. At least not with the expense and love that I put into cooking. So what that means is, I make a mean filet mignon. I do strip steaks and rib eyes well. My mother even gave me a beloved flank steak recipe that I adore that has outlasted every single one of my boyfriends. How-ever, roasts? Cheaper cuts of meat to feed a family? A less well known cut of meat, like the hangar steak, that I wouldn’t purchase to cook for myself at home, but that I might order at a restaurant? I. Knew. Nothing. About. These. Items.

And along with the black hole of knowledge in my brain, there was an onslaught of information, study terms, questions, and long-winded answers to those questions about how to break down primals into sub-primals and subprimals into portion cuts. I kept my head above water through the rib section, but as soon as we got to the chuck, or shoulder, I was lost. In ad-dition to being lost, I started to zone out as he was cutting the meat, because it all looked the same to me and it started to sound like he was speaking in tongues. I literally had no idea where he was on the animal. I’d come back into focus, realize I hadn’t taken any notes, I hadn’t heard what Chef had said, and then I’d hear him add, “So, you need to know this because it will be on the final.” Um, excuse me, could you repeat that? Veal. I thought it would be a review, but it was dif-ferent enough to confuse me further. Then we went to the hog, which was a little easier, because pork prod-ucts are so familiar to us. Again, though, the roasts got me. I absolutely never cook roasts. It’s just not my thang. At this juncture, I was in the weeds. I knew that I was not “getting” this class the way I had gotten all the classes in my first semester. People learn dif-ferently, different classrooms have different learning cultures, and I have also realized that the way instruc-tors teach affects how I learn. And some things, like meat, feel like math to me, in that it just takes a little more time for me to understand, a little bit more time for me to pull it all together, and a little bit more work outside of class to absorb what I need to know. A little more than half way through the class, I start-ed to panic. I KNEW that I didn’t have the knowledge that most of the students in my class had. I wasn’t getting it. It just wasn’t penetrating through. We were given a special project paper, and as I wrote it out, I felt like I just didn’t know the material well enough. Then I thought that I was overcomplicating it, over-thinking it. Then I realized that everyone in the class actually really did know more than me. Chef Elia conducted a demo where he went around the room and asked everyone a question. Somehow, he skipped me, much to my relief. I didn’t know any of the an-swers to ANY of the questions he asked. I was sinking for the first time here at the CIA. I did okay at fabrication, if only because I am a deft home cook and have decent, although by no means stellar, knife skills. Of course, I had to rely on my partner Ari to tell me what to do during fabrication, because between zoning out on what Chef was saying , in conjunction with my 41 year old memory skills (read: none!) I had no idea what I was supposed to be doing most days.

Then came lamb. Which was a review of veal, which is a semi-review of beef. What a huge relief. That helped me climb a few rungs up the ladder. Then chicken. It’s tough to get confused about a chicken. A few more rungs up. Then, we fabricated duck, and I took great pride in this because it’s my favorite pro-tein. By the end of duck, I was feeling much better about things. I realized I needed to review bovine heavily, but only needed to go over the shoulder cuts on a hog, and lamb and veal were similar, and chicken and duck were simple for me. Identification was still my weak point and I did the worst on it on the final. However, I did well enough in the class to get a very respectable, mid-to-high range “B.” I don’t like B’s, but I’ll take the B. That class was hard. In fact, Brian and James told me that they thought it was hard, too. And to Chef Elia’s credit, he told us that at the outset. He said, “Buckle down, get ready, the first 7 days are tough. But after that, it gets easier.” He was right. He understands how that course flows. I absolutely believe, though, that the attitude that I entered class with initially affected my ability to learn. I honestly thought it was going to be easy, and I had no idea the amount of material to be learned in the class. By the time I realized that I was being over-whelmed, I was already pretty far down in the hole. I got humbled, and now I know how to approach every class from here on out. I also know how to dig out when I’m in the hole. It’s called studying, boys and girls. The worst thing I did, though, was panic. I had two solid days of panicking where I wasn’t productive at home, and I didn’t learn anything in class because of that, “I’m never going to learn this” block that we get in our brains. Trust me when I say that no matter how confused you feel in ANY class here, there is a moment where there is enough review where things “click” into place. If you’re earnest in your desire to learn, and make the effort, you will have that moment in every class. For me, in meat class, it just came a little late in a class that’s only fourteen days long. (Many thanks to Ralph and Miranda in the meat room who made us feel welcome and were great to work with! Miranda, friend me on Facebook!)

BY: Dania Farra, AOS Baking and Pastry